From The Art and Popular Culture Encyclopedia

"The station at Zurenborg may be conveniently reached by the tramway -line No. 6, and the Porte de Turnhout, where the steam- tramway stops, by the line No. 5."--Belgium and Holland: Handbook for Travellers (1891) by Baedeker "The country called Belgium at the present day, which was originally peopled with a race of Celtic origin, and was subsequently overrun by Teutonic invaders, was conquered by Caesar, and remained under Roman supremacy until the beginning of the 5th century, when the Salic Franks established themselves in the district between the Schelde, the Meuse, and the Lower Rhine. In the 9th century the country formed part of the Empire of Charlemagne. By the treaty of Verdun (843) the western provinces, Flanders and Artois, became part of France, while the eastern, including Brabant, fell to the share of Germany."--Belgium and Holland: Handbook for Travellers (1891) by Baedeker

{{Template}} Belgium and Holland: Handbook for Travellers (1891) by Karl Baedeker. 1891 is the date of the 10th edition.

Contents 1 Full text 2 PREFACE. 3 CONTENTS 4 BELGIUM. 5 15. Antwerp. 5.1 Practical information 5.2 Portrait 5.3 Palais des Beaux-Arts (currently the KMSKA) 5.4 The rest 6 16. From Antwerp to Rotterdam . 7 See also

Full text

BELGIUM AND HOLLAND: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS BY K. BAEDEKER

WITH 13 MAPS AND 20 PLANS. TENTH EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTED. LEIPSIC : KARL BAEDEKER, PUBLISHER. 1891. All rights reserved . CORNELL UNIVERSITY LIBRARY A.42650 DH 16 B13 1891 “ Go, little book, God send thee good passage, And specially let this be thy prayere Unto them all that thee will read or hear, Where thou art wrong, after their help to call , Thee to correct in any part or all." S

PREFACE.

THE chief objects of the Handbook for Belgium and Holland are to supply the traveller with a few remarks on the progress of civilisation and art in these interesting coun tries ; to render him as far as possible independent of the em barrassing and expensive services of commissionnaires, guides, and other members of the same fraternity ; to place him in a position to employ his time , his money , and his energy to the best advantage ; and thus to enable him to derive the greatest possible amount of pleasure and in struction from his tour. The Handbook has been compiled almost entirely from the Editor's personal observation , and he has used every en deavour to furnish information acceptable to travellers of every class . The present edition , which corresponds to the 19th German edition and the 14th French, has been care fully revised and remodelled from the most recent time tables, catalogues, government statistics, and other sources . The Editor has also frequently availed himself of the valuable information kindly afforded by travellers, which he grate fully acknowledges. The introductory article on art has been contributed by Professor Anton Springer of Leipsic, and has been adapted for the use of English travellers with the kind assistance of Mr. J. A. Crowe, author of ' The Early Flemish Painters' . Other valuable remarks on many of the principal works of art mentioned in the Handbook are also from Professor Springer's pen. The arrangement of the pictures in some of the Belgian galleries is frequently changed ; but, as a general rule, the vi PREFACE. data afforded by the Handbook will enable the traveller to dispense with the costly and often bewildering catalogues. The MAPS and PLANS, on which the utmost care has been bestowed , will prove of material service to the tra veller when threading his way through the intricacies of the curious medieval cities of Belgium , or when entangled in the network of railways, rivers, and canals with which the Netherlands are overspread. HEIGHTS and DISTANCES are given in English measure ment, and the POPULATIONS in accordance with the most re cent census. The HOTELS indicated by asterisks are those which the Editor has reason to consider the most comfortable and worthy of commendation ; and in awarding these asterisks he has entirely disregarded the self - laudations of innkeepers and other persons of a similar class. The average charges and prices stated in the Handbook, although constantly tending to rise , will enable the traveller to form some idea of his probable expenditure. To hotel-proprietors, tradesmen, and others the Editor begs to intimate that a character for fair dealing and cour tesy towards travellers forms the sole passport to his com mendation, and that advertisements of every kind are strict ly excluded from his Handbooks.

CONTENTS

Introduction . A. Belgium . Page xi xii xii xiii XV xvi xvi I. Plan of Tour II . Money and Travelling Expenses III . Passports. Custom House . IV. Language . V. Churches, Picture Galleries, and Collections VI. Railways VII. History and Statistics B. Holland. I. Plan of Tour . II. Money and Travelling Expenses III . Passports. Custom House . IV. Language . V. Picture Galleries and Collections VI. Railways . VII. Dutch Characteristics VIII. History and Statistics xxi xxi xxii xxii xxvi xxvi xxvi xxxi Historical Sketch of Art in the Netherlands by Professor Springer . . Route Belgium 1. From London to Ostend . Slykens. Mariakerke. Middelkerke. Oudenburg 2. Blankenberghe and Heyst Lissewegbe From Blankenberghe to Ostend by the coast From Heyst to Bruges . Sluis 3. From Ostend to Brussels viâ Bruges and Ghent From Bruges to Blankenberghe and Heyst From Ghent to Terneuzen From Ghent to Bruges viâ Èecioo : From Alost to Antwerp 4. Bruges Damme 5. The Railways of 8. W. Flanders 1. From Ostend Ypres From Ypres to Poperinghe and Hazebrouck 2. From Ghent to Dunkirk viâ Lichtervelde From Diksmuide to Nieuport 3. From Bruges to Courtrai From Roulers to Ypres aud to Menin .

viii CONTENTS. Route 6. From Brussels to Courtrai and Ypres 7. Ghent . 8. From Ghent to Courtrai and Tournai From Ghent to Oudenaarde, Leuze, and Mong From Mouscron to Lille 9. Tournai 10. From Ghent to Antwerp a. State Railway viâ Dendermonde and Puers From Dendermonde to St. Nicolas, Lokeren, Alost, and Brussels b . Waesland Railway 11. From London to Brussels viâ Calais Page33 34 55 55 57 58 61 61 Lille . From Tournai to Mons From Denderleeuw to Grammont, Ath, and Jurbise From Ath to Blaton . 12. Brussels 13. From Brussels to Charleroi viâ Luttre Battle Field of Waterloo 14. From Brussels to Antwerp viâ Malinės From Malines to Louvain and to Ghent From Malines to St. Nicolas and Terneuzen From Contich to Turnhout. 15. Antwerp Hoogstraten 16. From Antwerp to Rotterdam a . Railway Journey . b . Steamboat Journey 17. From Antwerp to Aix-la- Chapelle viâ Maastricht From Hasselt to Maaseyck 18. From Antwerp to München -Gladbach 19. From Brussels to Braine - le - Comte and Mons From Mons to Paris From Mong to Charleroi 20. From Ghent to Charleroi and Namur viâ Braine - le - Comte From Manage to Mons . From Manage to Wavre. Quatrebras From Charleroi to Vireux

From Châtelineau to Givet 21. From Namur to Dinant and Givet Valley of the Lesse From Givet to Sedan

22. From Brussels to Luxembourg viâ Namur Grotte de Rochefort. Trou de Han - sur - Lesse From Libramont to Gouvy From Arlon to Longwy and to Gedinne

23. From Brussels to Liège viâ Louvain From Louvain to Rotselaer, Aerschot, and Herenthals From Tirlemont to Diest ; to St. Trond and Tongres; and to Namur From Landen to Hasselt From Landen to Gembloux 24. Louvain 3. From Louvain to Charleroi 62 62 64 64 68 69 69 72 115 116 130 135 135 135 136 172 172 172 173 175 176 177 178 180 181 181 181 182 183 184 186 189 190 191 192 194 194 195 195 196 196 197 197 202 CONTENTS. ix Route Page 26. Liège and Seraing 203 27. From Liège to Marloie . 214 From Rivage to Trois-Vierges ( Chemin de Fer de l'Am blève) 214 From Melreux to La Roche 217 28. From Liège to Maastricht 218 29. From Liège to Namur 221 From Huy to Landen and to Ciney 223 30. From Liège to Aix-la-Chapelle 224 The Barrage de la Gileppe 227 31. From Pepinster to Trois-Vièrges. Spa 227 Excursions from Spa. Baraque Michel. Coo . Remouchamps 231 , 232 From Stavelot to . Malmedy . 232 Luxembourg. 32. From Trois -Vierges to Luxembourg · 232 From Kautenbach to Oberwiltz and Esch an der Sauer 234 From Kruchten to La Rochette. From La Rochette to Echternach . Befort. Berdorf 235, 236 Valley of the Eisch . Valley of the Mamer 236, 237 From Luxembourg to Remich . 238 33. From Luxembourg to Wasserbillig viâ Diekirch and Echternach 239 Excursions from Diekirch.Valley of the Our. Vianden 239, 210. 34. From Luxembourg to Trèves 242 . > Holland. 35. From Flushing to Breda 243 Domburg. Veere 245 36. Rotterdam 246 37. From Rotterdam to the Hague , Leyden , Haarlem , and Amsterdam 255 From Leyden to Woerden : 258 38. The Hague 259 39. Scheveningen 276 40. Leyden 279 Noordwyk aan Zee. Katwyk aan Zee 285 41. Haarlem 285 Zandvoort 292 42. Amsterdam 293 Excursions in the Environs of Amsterdam 335 43. From Amsterdam and Haarlem to the Helder. North Holland 338 Wyk aan Zee 339 44. From Amsterdam to Harlingen and Groningen viâ Enk huizen and Stavoren 342 45. From Amsterdam or Utrecht to Leeuwarden and Groningen 346 From Zwolle to Kampen . Pauper Colonies of Frederiksoord, Wilhelminaoord , Willemsoord , Veenhuizen, and Ommerschans 349 From Groningen to Delfzyl. Schiermonnik - Oog . 351 348 x CONTENTS. Route Page 46. From Groningen to Bremen 351 47. From Amsterdam and Arnhem to Zutphen and Rheine 351 From Zutphen to Winterswyk 353 From Zutphen to Zwolle 353 48. From Amsterdam or Rotterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem 354 From Gouda to the Hague 356 49. From Liège to Utrecht . 359 Château of Heeswyk 361 50. Utrecht 362 51. From Arnhem to Cologne 367 1. Viâ Cleve and Crefeld 367 2. Viâ Fmmerich and Düsseldorf 368 3. Steamboat Route . 368 52. From Arnhem to Nymegen, ' S Hertogenbosch , and Tilburg 370 53. From Maastricht to Nymegen and Dordrecht 372 54. From Cologne to Rotterdam viâ Venlo 374 List of Artists 379 Index 393 Maps. 1. GENERAL MAP OF BELGIUM : before the title -page. 2. Map of the ENVIRONS OF OSTEND AND BRUGES: p. 7. 3. Map of the ENVIRONS OF BRUSSELS : p. 114. 4. Map of the BATTLE FIELD OF WATERLOO : p. 115 . 5. Map of the MEUSE FROM Givet To LIÈGE : p. 187. 6. Map of the ENVIRONS OF ROCHEFORT AND HAN- SUR -LESSE : p. 192. 7. Map of the ENVIRONS OF MAASTRICHT: p. 219. 8. Map of the ENVIRONS OF SPA : between pp . 228 , 229. 9. Map of the GRAND-DUCHY OF LUXEMBOURG ; between pp. 232, 233. 10. Map of the ENVIRONS OF THE HAGUE : p. 277. 11. Map of the ENVIRONS OF AMSTERDAM : p . 335. 12. Map of the ENVIRONS OF ARNHEM : p . 357. 13. GENERAL MAP OF HOLLAND : after the Index. Plans of Towns. Amsterdam ( p. 293), Antwerp ( p. 136) , Bruges (p . 11 ), Brussels (p. 71), Delft ( p. 256 ), Ghent ( p . 34), Groningen ( p. 350), The Hague ( p. 276), Haarlem (p . 285 ), Leyden ( p. 284) , Liège ( p. 203), Lille (p . 64), Louvain ( p. 197) , Luxembourg( p. 237 ), Malines ( p. 131), Namur (p . 186 ), Ostend ( p. 6 ), terdam ( p. 246), Tournai ( p. 58 ), Utrecht ( p. 362) . Abbreviations. R. = Room. ft. = English foot. B. = Breakfast . N. = North , northern, etc. D. = Dinner. S. = South , etc. A. = Attendance . E. = East, etc. L. = Light. W. = West, etc. M. = English mile . = right . Supper. 1 . = left. déj . = Déjeuner. = hour. The letter d with a date , after the name of a person , indicates the year of his death . The number of feet given after the name of a place shows its height above the sea- level . The number of miles placed before the principal places on railway-routes and high- roads generally indicates their distance from the starting-point of the route. r. S. = hr. Asterisks are used as marks of commendation.

BELGIUM.

1. Plan of Tour. Belgium is now so completely intersected by a network of rail ways , that the traveller will rarely have occasion to travel by any other conveyance ; but a steamboat- trip on the Meuse , and a few excursions on horseback or on foot in the neighbourhood of Liège, Namur , Dinant , Spa , etc. , should not be omitted ; for these are foremost among the many beautiful and historically - interesting districts of which Belgium can boast. On the whole , however, the works ofthe painter and the architect are Belgium's great attrac tions ; and as a large proportion of the traveller's time will pro bably be spent in the cities and larger towns, he is recommend ed to select the spring or autumn in preference to the summer for his tour. Those who are already acquainted with the towns and their treasures of art, or whose object is retirement and re pose , will find many delightful spots for spending the summer on the banks of the Meuse, or in the environs of Spa. The following tour, beginning at Ostend and terminating at Antwerp, will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite for a glimpse at the chief attractions of Belgium . Travellers entering Belgium from France, Holland , or Germany, will find no difficulty in planning other tours with the aid of the map. Ostend and Bruges 11/2 day Ghent Courtrai, Tournai, Mons Charleroi, Namur '. Valley of the Meuse, Dinant 11/2 Liège and Seraing Maastricht and the Petersberg Louvain and Brussels Waterloo 1 Malines Antwerp 1 2 1 1 1 2 " 9 1 2 15 days. In order to prevent loss of time in exploring towns, the traveller should carefully consult the plans before leaving his hotel , and if pressed for time he had better hire a cab or vigilante by the hour, dismissing it, however, when a prolonged visit to a picture - gallery or museum is contemplated. The Handbook renders the services of commissionnaires and guides entirely superfluous ( half-a-day 2-3, whole day 4-5 fr. ), and the traveller is particularly cautioned xii Money. BELGIUM against employing those of an inferior class by whom he is impor tuned in the streets . II. Money and Travelling Expenses . MONEY. The Monetary System of France was introduced into Belgium in 1833 ; and by the Convention of Paris of 1865 Belgium belongs to a monetary league with France, Switzerland, and Italy. One franc, 100 centimes, 80 German pfennigs, 50 Austrian kreu zers, 47 Dutch cents, 20 American cents, and 93/4 pence are all nearly equivalent (see the money-table at the beginning of the book). The coins in common circulation are French Napoleons (20 fr.) in gold ; 5, 21/2, 1 , 1/2, and 1/5 fr. pieces in silver ; 10, 5, 2, 1 c. in copper ; 20, 10, 5 c. in nickel. Swiss and papal coins should be refused. English and French banknotes and English gold are received at all the principal towns, hotels, and railway - stations at their full value ( 1l. = 25 fr . ) . Belgian notes from 20 to 1000 fr . are current in all parts of Belgium , but do not realise their full value in France or elsewhere . English circular notes are recommended for the transport of large sums, in preference to banknotes or gold, as they always realise a favourable exchange, and as , if lost , their value is recoverable . Money should not be changed except at the shops of the larger and more respectable money- changers ; the small dealers at the railway-stations seldom give the due rate of exchange. EXPENSES. Hotels of the highest class are somewhat expensive at Brussels and the principal Belgian watering - places, but in most other parts of the country they will be found cheaper than in Eng land . The average charges are as follows: bed 3 fr., coffee and rolls 11/2 fr. , dinner 3-5 fr. , 1/2 bottle of Bordeaux 11 /2-2 fr. , atten dance 1 fr . The table d'hôte dinner in the larger towns is generally between 4.30 and 6 p.m. Supper may be ordered at a fixed charge of 2 fr. or upwards. The charges at hotels of the second class are about one - third lower, while the accommodation is sometimes quite as good , although less pretending. Hotel - expenses therefore need not exceed 10-15 fr . per day ; the fees payable at picture- gal leries, museums , and churches amount to 3-4 fr. per day , and travelling expenses to 8-10 fr . ; so that most travellers should be prepared for a daily expenditure of at least 25-30 fr. each. On the other hand the óvoyageur en garçon ', the artist, the student, and the pedestrian may easily reduce their expenditure to half that sum without much diminution of comfort . III. Passports. Custom House. PASSPORTS . These documents are now dispensed with in Belgium , but they are occasionally useful in proving the traveller's identity, procuring admission to private collections, etc., and they must be shown in order to obtain delivery of registered letters . BELGIUM. Language. xiii Custom House . The formalities of the douane are generally very lenient. The traveller should always, if possible, superintend the examination of bis luggage in person . In crossing a frontier even the smaller articles of luggage usually kept in the railway carriage have to be submitted to inspection . The traveller is al lowed 1 lb. of tobacco or cigars duty free, but he should declare it to the custom-house officers. When a frontier is to be crossed , ordinary passengers' luggage should never be sent by goods- train . The risk of detention , pilfering , and other vexations , far out weighs any saving of trouble or expense which this plan affords. IV . Language. The linguist, the ethnologist, and indeed every observant tra veller will be interested in the marked differences between the various races of which the Belgian nation is composed. The Walloons ( of Namur, Liège, Verviers, etc. ), who are believed to be partly of Celtic extraction, are remarkable for their enterprising and in dustrious, and at the same time passionate and excitable character. The Flemings, who constitute about five- eighths of the population , are a somewhat phlegmatic race of Teutonic origin ; they are pre eminently successful in agriculture and those pursuits in which energetic action is less requisite than patient perseverance , and their language is of the Teutonic stock, being closely akin to the Dutch . Antwerp and other seaports, however, also possess a thriv ing commercial and seafaring Flemish population. A third element is the French Political refugees and obnoxious journalists fre quently transfer the sphere of their labours from Paris to Brussels, while a considerable proportion of the Belgian population in the principal towns affect French manners and customs, are frequently educated in France, and are often entirely ignorant of the Flemish language. A valuable and interesting work, to which reference is frequently made in the Handbook, is the 'Descriptio totius België by the learned Florentine Guicciardini (d. 1589), who in his ca pacity of Tuscan ambassador resided for several years in the Nether lands. “ Leodicum ' ( Liège ), he says, ' utitur lingua Gallica , Aquis granum ( Aix - la - Chapelle) Germanica : viri Leodicenses alacres, festivi, tractabiles ; Aquisgranenses melancholici, severi, difficiles. In summa, tantum alteri et natura et moribus, totaque adeo vitae ra tione ab alteris differunt, quantum Galli discrepant a Germanis' . The boundary between the Walloon and Flemish languages is a tolerably - straight line drawn from Liège southwards past Brussels to Calais , Walloon being spoken in a few isolated districts to the N. , and Flemish here and there to the S. of the line. FRENCH is the language of the government, the legislature, the army , of most of the newspapers , of public traffic , of literature, and indeed of all the upper classes, as it has been since the time of the crusades . xiv Language BELGIUM. . > lyן The Walloon language, which resembles a very corrupt dialect of French , or rouchi français as it is termed by the French , is an early French ( Romanic) patois, with Celtic and Teutonic ele ments, occurring occasionally in ancient documents and poems, and not entirely without its literature , but almost as unin telligible to a Frenchman as to an Englishman or a German. Guicciardini describes it as ' sermo communiter Gallicus ; sed quia Galliam inter atque Germaniam positi , corruptus valde et perabsurdus'. The linguist who desires to form some acquaintance with the Walloon language is referred to two excellent works published at Liège in 1845 : ‘ Poésies en patois de Liège, précedées d'une dissertation grammaticale sur ce patois, et suivies d'un glossaire par Simonon' , and the 'Dictionnaire étymologique de la langue Wallonne par Ch. Grandgagnage', the latter unfortunately uncom pleted . Liège also possesses an excellent Société de Littérature Wallonne , the object of which is to disseminate useful literature. The following popular rhymes from the ‘ Almanach par maître Matthieu Laensbergh' will serve as a specimen of the language : JANUARY : Il gna pu d'brodli ki dºpoussîr. Il y a plus de brouillard que de pous sière. FEBRUARY : Li chôd ' sop ' so on vi stoumak, La chaude soupe sur un vieil estomac , So n freut paî, on bon spet cazak, Dans un pays froid une bonne épaisse casaque , Ni ferit nin pu d’bin ki l’solo , Ne ferait pas plus de bien que le soleil, Si voléj ' lur on po sor no. S'il voulait luire un peu sur nous. APRIL : C'est l'usège dist- on d' s'attrapé C'est l'usage, dit -on , de s'attraper Lonk et l'aut , li prumî d'avri : L'un et l'autre le premier d'avril : Si c'n'esteu ko qu po s'diverti, Si ce n'était que pour se divertir, Qu'on koirah' in' got à s'dupé ! Qu'on cherchất un peu à se duper! Mais c'n'est pu po rir qu'on s'surprin , Mais ce n'est plus pour rire qu'on se surprend , De mon si on ce reie, ci n'est k ' de gros Du moins si l'on en rit ce n'est que du des dîn . gros des dents . On s'tromp', on s'dispoie al tournaie : On se trompe, on se dépouille tour à tour : C'est l'prumî d'avri tot' l'annaie ! C'est le prem. d'avril toute l'année. The FLEMISH language differs but slightly from the Dutch, both being branches of the same family of Germanic languages. In the middle ages they formed but one tongue , and even at the present day the Flemish spoken language differs no more from the Dutch than some German dialects do from each other , while the written languages are almost identical , especially since about 1864, when the Flemish writers ceased to use certain unimportant orthogra phical peculiarities that had previously distinguished the languages. Flemish, although a rich and expressive language, cannot be called a highly-cultivated tongue, being spoken by the uneducated classes only , and possessing but little original literature. Centuries of $ BELGIUM. Churches. XV Spanish , Austrian , and French domination have left the Flemish language unaltered for the simple reason that it was never used as a written language, except for catechisms, prayer -books, legends, etc. , for the use of the lower classes. Since the year 1840 several scholars of eminence and a number of learned societies have zea lously striven to procure the introduction of Flemish into the higher political and social circles, but their efforts have hitherto met with indifferent success. A law was passed in 1873 permitting a more general use of Flemish injudicial proceedings than had previously been competent, and in 1883 the use of the Flemish speech was re introduced into the middle - class schools of the Flemish provinces. While, however, this may tend to preserve and purify the language, the fact remains unchanged, that a knowledge of French is still con sidered indispensable to all but the lowest agricultural and labour ing classes. The following peculiarities of pronunciation are common to Flemish and Dutch : y (in Dutch ij) is pronounced like the Eng lish i in time (but in West Flanders like e ), u like the French u, eu like the French eu, eeu like the English a ( in fate), oe like oo , ae like ah, ou as in English, ui like the French eu-i , oei like we, sch like s and the guttural ch in the Scotch loch, and sch at the end of a word almost like s . After what has been said, it need hardly be added that a slight knowledge of French will enable the traveller in Belgium to con verse with every one with whom he is likely to come in contact, and that an acquaintance with the Flemish and Walloon dialects will probably be of little use except to the philologist. Those who are ignorant of French will be glad to know that English is spoken at most of the principal hotels throughout the country. . V. Churches, Picture Galleries, and Collections. The CHURCHES (Roman Catholic ) are usually open from 6 a.m. till noon, but in the afternoon the visitor must apply to the sacris tan . If the architecture or the pulpit be the chief object of interest it may be inspected in the forenoon , but when pictures are to be seen the attendance of the sacristan is necessary, as they are often covered with curtains or concealed in side- chapels. The best hours in this case are 12-4 p.m. , when there is no service. Fee for one person 1 /2-1 fr ., and for a party more in proportion. In many churches the fees are fixed by tariff, but here also a fee to the sacristan is oc casionally expected. PICTURE GALLERIES and COLLECTIONS are generally open gratis from 10 or 11 a.m. till 3 , 4, or 5 p.m., but on certain days a trifling fee for admission (1/2-1 fr.) is sometimes charged . For admission to town - halls and similar sights, the fee is usually about the same. In visiting a private collection a single traveller is expected to give a gratuity of about 2 fr. xvi History. BELGIUM. 20 c. ). VI. Railways. The most trustworthy time-tables are contained in the "Guide officiel des voyageurs sur tous les chemins de fer de Belgique' , publish ed monthly, and sold at all the principal railway-stations (edition in yellow cover, with map, The fares on the Belgian lines are probably the lowest in the railway -world. The charges per Engl. M. are now about 17 c. for the first, 11 c. for the second , and 81/2 c. for the third class ; ex press fares are somewhat higher. Return-tickets are issued at a reduction of 20 per cent. , and are available from 1 to 3 days ac cording to the distance . In 1890 there were 2793 M. of railway open for traffic in Belgium. Luggage must be booked and paid for separately. On most of the international through -routes 56 lbs . are free, but on the inland routes the cost of its transport not unfrequently amounts to as much as a second or third class fare. The traveller is therefore recommended to restrict his requirements if possible to the limits of a travelling - bag or moderate valise , which when necessary he can wield unaided , and take with him into the railway- carriage , so as to avoid the delay and expense incurred in booking it for the luggage- van . Anything over 56 lbs . in weight, however , must be boked , and should be at the office at least 1/4 hr . before the train starts . The luggage -offices are closed 3 min . before the hour of de parture. An advantage peculiar to the Belgian railways is that, in the case of the inland traffic, luggage may always be forwarded by passenger - train whether the sender takes a personal ticket for the journey or not. Luggage may be insured at a charge of 10 c. per 100 fr . of the value . There are Refreshment Rooms ( Buffets- Restaurants) at a few of the Belgian stations only. Their charges are mentioned in the above noted official guide. VII . History and Statistics. The country called Belgium at the present day, which was originally peopled with a race of Celtic origin , and was subsequently overrun by Teutonic invaders , was conquered by Caesar , and re mained under Roman supremacy until the beginning of the 5th century , when the Salic Franks established themselves in the district between the Schelde , the Meuse, and the Lower Rhine. In the 9th century the country formed part of the Empire of Charlemagne. By the treaty of Verdun (843) the western provinces , Flanders and Artois , became part of France , while the eastern , including Brabant , fell to the share of Germany. With the development of the feudal system various hereditary principalities were established here as elsewhere. Thus arose the states of Flanders , Artois , Hainault , Namur , the duchies of Brabant and Limburg , the principality of Liège , the county of Antwerp, and the lordship of Malines , which at a later period rendered themselves independent of their powerful neighbours. Flanders, which attained to great prosperity by means of its manufactures and commercial enterprise , carried on a long - continued struggle against France, the result of which, chiefly through the strenuous exertions of the cities of Ghent and Bruges , was the establishment of its complete independence. On the extinction of the male line of the Counts of Flanders in 1385 , Flanders became annexed to Burgundy by the marriage of Philip the Bold with a daughter of the Flemish princely race , and by the beginning of the 15th cent . most of the other states were also united , by means of later marriages and other contracts, inheritance, etc., under the suprem acy of the Dukes of Burgundy. This change of dynasty was most favourable to the growth of art in the Netherlands . The splendour loving Philip the Bold (a. 1404 ) employed artists of every kind, particularly goldsmiths, while the name of his grandson Philip the Good (1419-1467) , to whom Jan van Eyck was court-painter , is inseparably connected with the first bloom of Flemish painting. In 1477 the Netherlands came into the possession of the House of Hapsburg by the marriage of Mary of Burgundy, the daughter of Charles the Bold, the last Duke of Burgundy, with Maximilian, afterwards Emperor of Germany. The children of this marriage were Philip the Handsome (d . 1506) , Duke of Burgundy and King of Castile ( in right of his wife, Johanna the Mad) , and Margaret of Austria, regent of the Netherlands from 1506 to her death in 1530. Philip's son , Charles V., who was born at Ghent in 1500, and sub sequently became Emperor of Germany and King of Spain , succeeded also to the Netherlandish provinces, which on his abdication in 1555 came under the sway of his son Philip II . Thenceforward the Ne therlands were subject to Spanish Supremacy. Philip appointedhis half- sister, Margaret ofParma, regent of theNetherlands ( 1559-67), and selected Granvella, Bishop of Arras, as her counsellor and as sistant. Religious agitations, the excessive increase of the number of the bishops (1559 ) , the burdensome presence of the Spanish troops, and other grievances led to numerous tumults , to suppress which the king dispatched the Duke of Alva to the Netherlands with an army of 20,000 men. The extreme cruelty with which Alva fulfilled his task resulted in the famous revolt of the United Netherlands in 1568. Success was achieved by the northern provinces only, which now constitute the Kingdom of Holland , whilst the south ern districts , the present Kingdom of Belgium , after protracted and fierce struggles, still continued to groan under the oppressive yoke of the Spaniards. At length, under the régime of Alexander Farnese, Duke of Parma (1578-96), the third governor after Alva, Belgium also succeeded in recovering the civic liberties in behalf of which the war had originally broken out. In 1598 the ' Spanish Netherlands' were ceded by Philip II , as BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. b xviii History . BELGIUM. > a fief to his daughter Clara Isabella Eugenia on the occasion of her marriage with Albert , Archduke of Austria, the Spanish governor. Under their régime the wounds which the country had suffered during the war began to heal. The princely pair exerted themselves in every way to promote the welfare of the provinces under their care ; industry and commerce once more flourished, and the ad ministration of justice was reorganised. Their religious zeal, of a strong anti - reformation type , was displayed in the foundation of new monasteries, colleges , and other Roman Catholic institutions , but at the same time materially contributed to the development of art. Numerous churches, in the gorgeous but somewhat degraded taste of the period , were built and decorated with brilliant altar pieces . The Archduke and his wife, moreover, rendered the country an important service by securing the services of Rubens, the great est of Belgian painters, who in 1609 had made up his mind to settle in Italy. They appointed him their court - painter, permit ting him at the same time to reside at Antwerp, the centre of Flemish art. After Albert's death without issue ( 1621) the Netherlands re verted to Spain, which during the wars of the latter half of the 17th cent. was obliged to cede many of its provinces (Artois , Thion ville, etc.) to France. In 1714 these provinces were awarded by the Peace of Rastadt to the House of Austria. The ' Austrian Netherlands' were wisely and beneficently govern ed by the archdukes of Austria , who held the office of Stadtholder, and for a brief period the glorious days of the Burgundian régime appeared to have returned . The governors of that period , especially under the Empress Maria Theresa, are still gratefully remembered by the Belgians. The opposition which the reforms of the Emp. Joseph II . encountered at length ( in 1789) gave rise to the ‘Bra bant Revolution ', headed by Van der Noot and Vonk, but the inde pendence thus attained lasted for a single year only, and under Emp. Leopold II. the Austrians again took possession of the country . This revolution , however, paved the way for the interference of the French , whose aid had been invoked by the ecclesiastical and the liberal parties . In 1794 the whole of Belgium was occupied by French Republicans, who divided it into nine departments. In 1814 the French supremacy was finally shaken off. The Treaty of London , of 28th June, 1814, and the provisions of the Congress of Vienna, of 7th June, 1815, united Belgium and Holland under the name of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, and elevated William of Orange, son of the former stadtholder of the Seven Provinces , to the newly - constituted throne. Belgium was again severed from her constrained union with Holland by the Revolution of 1830. On 10th Nov. the provisional government summoned a national congress , by which the Duc de Nemours, son of Louis Philippe, was invited to become the sovereign of Belgium . BELGIUM. Statistics . xix The French monarch having declined the dignity in behalf of his son , Leopold of Saxe- Coburg was next selected by the congress, and that prince accordingly ascended the throne on 21st July, 1831 . The treaty of the intervening powers , signed at London on 15th Nov. , 1831 , by the representatives of the five great powers and of Belgium , although not finally recognised by the exasperated King of Holland till 1839, constituted the Kingdom of Belgium one of the independent European states , and determined the boundaries and the relations between the two disunited kingdoms. King Leopold II ., born in 1835 , the son of Leopold I. (b . 1790, d . 1865) and of Louise, his second consort, daughter of Louis Phi lippe (d. 1850), ascended the throne on 10th Dec., 1865. His Queen is Marie Henriette , daughter of the late Archduke Joseph. The royal family consists of the Princesses Louise (b . 1858 ; mar ried in 1875 to Prince Philip of Saxe- Coburg ) , Stephanie (b . 1864 ; married in 1881 to Rudolph, Crown Prince of Austria ), and Clemen tine ( b. 1872 ). Leopold, the only son (b. 1859) , died at the age of ten . The Count of Flanders ( b. 1845) , who is married to a German Princess, is the King's brother, Charlotte, the widow of Maximilian , Emp. of Mexico (d. 1867), is a sister of Leopold II . EXTENT. The extremelength of the kingdom , from N.W. to S.E. , is 179 Engl . M. , breadth from N. to S. 110 M., area 11,373 sq . M. POPULATION (in 1888) 6,030,043 ( in 1831, 3,785,864 only), of whom about 21/2 millions are Flemings, and about 2 millions Wal loons . The Roman Catholic religion is greatly predominant, about 15,000 only of the population being Protestants, and 3000 Jews ; and of these two sects more than half are resident in the provinces of Antwerp and Brabant. PROVINCES. The country is divided into nine provinces , viz . Antwerp, Brabant, W. Flanders, E. Flanders, Hainault, Liège , Limburg, Luxembourg, and Namur. The density of population amounts to about 520 per sq. M. , and varies from 873 per sq. M. in Brabant to 128 per sq. M. in Luxembourg. Brabant, E. Flan ders, and Hainault, are , with the exception of some of the manu facturing districts of England , among the most densely peopled districts in the world. ARMY. The Belgian army is destined on principle only for the defence of the country and of the neutrality assured to it by the Treaty of London ( p. xviii) . It consists of 103,860 men, of whom 4247 are officers, and in time of peace, of 43,400 men . is composed of the following regiments : 1 Carabineers, 3 Riflemen , 14 Infantry of the line, 1 Grenadiers ; 2 Chasseurs-d -cheval, 4 Lan cers, 2 Guides, whose celebrated band is one of the best in Europe ; 4 Field Artillery (40 batteries of 6 guns each, 14mounted ), 4 Fortress Artillery ; 1 Engineers; 1 Telegraph , and 1 Railway company. There are also several companies of the military train and pontoniers. The country is divided into four military districts, each containing > The army b * Statistics. BELGIUM. four active and one depôt division . The principal military depôt is at Antwerp. - The Garde Civique, or militia, consists of about 31,000 men . The national colours, adopted in 1831 , are red, yellow, and black , placed in three perpendicular stripes, which were the colours of the ancient Duchy of Brabant. The armorial bearings of Belgium consist of the Lion of Brabant, with the motto ' L'union fait la force '. In 1890 Belgium possessed 51 merchant- ships , including 42 steamers, of an aggregate burden of 70, 222 tons ; and in 1887, 344 hing-boats of 12,190 tons, with about 1500 fishermen . It has no navy . CHARACTERISTICS. Those indicated by the following monkish lines are said to exist to some extent even at the present day : Nobilibus Bruxella viris , Antwerpia nummis, Gandavum laqueis, formosis Bruga puellis, Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mechlinia stultis ' . (Brussels rejoices in noble men , Antwerp in money, Ghent in halters , Bruges in pretty girls , Louvain in learned men , and Malines in fools. ) Halters are mentioned in connection with Ghent in allusion to the frequent humiliations to which its turbulent citizens were subjected by their sovereigns. The unenviable repu tation of the citizens of Malines originated in the story that they once mistook the moon shining through their cathedral- tower for a conflagration, and endeavoured to extinguish it by means of the fire - engines. 6 HOLLAND. . I. Plan of Tour. The following tour of a week is recommended to the traveller whose time is limited : Day From London to Rotterdam by steamboat ; or from Antwerp to Rotterdam by railway 1 Rotterdam , and thence by railway to the Hague 1 To Scheveningen ; also visit ’ T Huis ten Bosch . 1 To Leyden, and the same evening to Haarlem 1 Haarlem , and in the evening to Amsterdam 1 Amsterdam , and Environs 1 To Utrecht and thence by railway to Arnhem 1 . A hasty glance at the principal places in Holland may thus be obtained in a week or ten days , but the traveller whose time permits should devote a longer period to this interesting country. The following will be found a pleasant and instructive tour of a fortnight: Days From London, or from Antwerp, to Rotterdam 1 Rotterdam and Delft . 1 The Hague and Scheveningen 2 Leyden and Haarlem Alkmaar ; Helder, and back to Haarlem 3 Amsterdam and Environs 3 Utrecht 1 Arnhem 1 11/2 II. Money and Travelling Expenses. MONEY. The Dutch currency consists of florins (gulden or guilder) and cents. The florin (1s . 81/ 2d .) contains 100 cents, or 20 stuivers, or 10 dubbeltjes. The only gold coins now issued are pieces of 10 fl., known as Gouten Tientjes; and the gold pieces of smaller denomination still occasionally met with cannot be ex changed without a slight loss. The silver coins are pieces of 21/2 (ryksdaalder) and 1 florin, and of 50, 25 (kwartje ), 10 (dubbeltje), and 5 ( stuiver ) cents. A stuiver, or 5 cents, is worth 1d. English . English, French , or German money is taken at the hotels and rail way-stations . The average exchange for a Napoleon is 9 fl. 40 cents, for a sovereign 113/4-12 fl., for a 20 mark piece 11 fl. 80 cents. EXPENSES. The hotels at the principal towns and resorts of tra vellers are generally clean and comfortable , but inferior to those of Belgium and Germany. In some respects they resemble the 9 xxil Passports. HOLLAND. > 2 hotels in England more than those in other parts of the continent. The usual charge for a bedroom is 1-11/2 fl. , breakfast (plain) 50-80 cents, table d'hôte 21/2-3 fl., attendance 1/2 fl. Luncheon is generally taken at 1 , dinner between 5 and 7 o'clock. Although, as a nation, the Dutch are enlightened and well- educated , the class with whom the traveller comes in contact will perhaps impress him unfavourably ; but quite as much real comfort and civility will be met with in Holland as in any other part of the continent. Fees at museums, churches, etc. , should not exceed 2 fl. per day. Hotel expenses amount to 7-8 fl. daily, and travelling and other expenses to 4-5 fl. , so that the total cost of a tour in Hol land will be 13-15 fl. a day. The ' voyageur en garçon' may reduce his expenditure to one half of this sum by breakfasting at the cafés, dining at unpretending restaurants , and avoiding the more expensive hotels . It may also be remarked that the steam boats on the canals , the Rhine, Meuse, Yssel, etc. , afford a cheaper, and often pleasanter mode of travelling than the railways . III. Passports, Custom House. PASSPORTS may be dispensed with in Holland , as in Belgium , but the traveller had better be provided with one if he contemplates a prolonged tour. CUSTOM HOUSE. All new articles , especially if not wearing apparel , are liable to pay duty according to their value , which must be declared beforehand . New articles not previously declared are liable to confiscation. IV . Language. A slight acquaintance with the Dutch language will contribute greatly to the instruction and enjoyment afforded by a tour in Holland. German , however, is very generally understood , and English and French are spoken at all the best hotels and other prin cipal resorts of travellers. Those who have a knowledge of German, Danish , or Swedish will recognise the identity of the roots of the great majority of the words in these languages with those of the Dutch. The language, which may be described as Lower Frank ish dialect, and which existed in a written form as early as the 13th century , developed its individuality more strongly during the wars of independence of the 17th century . It is expressive and highly cultivated , and free from the somewhat vague and ungram matical character which stamps Flemish as a mere patois. Like other languages of purely Teutonic origin, it has admitted a consid erable number of Romanic words to the rights of citizenship : thus , kantoor (comptoir) , kwartier ( quartier) , katoen (coton), kastrol ( casserole) , rekwest (requête) , gids ( guide), etc. Words of foreign origin , however , have been imported from motives of con venience or fashion , rather than absolute necessity. The language a HOLLAND Language. xxjii - is remarkably rich and full of vital energy , and words of purely native growth are to be found in almost every branch of science and art. The following lines from two popular ballads will serve as a specimen : Wien Neêrlandsch bloed in de aderen Wij leven vrij , vij leven blij vloeit, Op Neêrlands dierbren grond, Van vreemde smetten vrij, Ontworsteld aan de slavernij, Wiens hart voorlanden Koning gloeit , Zijn wij door eendracht groot en vrij; Verhef den zang als wij: Hier duldt de grond geen dwing. Hij stel met ons, vereend van zin , landij Met onbeklemde borst, Waar vrijheid eeuwen stond. Het godgevallig feestlied in ( Brandt. ) Voor Vaderland en Vorst. ( Tollens.) ( Literal translation : ' We live free , ( Literal translation : ' Let him , in we live blithe, on Netherlands' dear whose veins flows Netherlandish ground ; delivered from slavery, we blood, free from foreign stain , and are through concord great and free ; whose heart glows for country and here the land suffers no tyranny , king, raise the song with us, united where freedom has subsisted for in sentiment, with unburdened breast , ages’ . ) in the festal song, pleasing to God, for Fatherland, and Sovereign '.) The pronunciation of Dutch somewhat resembles that of Ger man , but is more guttural, and therefore more difficult for the English student. The vowels a , e, i , o , u are pronounced as in French , and are lengthened , but not altered in sound , by being doubled ( thus 0o = 0) ; ei and ij, or y, are like the vowel sound in the French pays ; au and ou like ow in now, but broader ( aw-00) ; eu like the French eu or the German ö ; oe like the English oo or the German u ; ui has sound fluctuating between oi and ow (as in now) . In most other combinations of vowels each retains its usual sound . All the consonants are pronounced as in English, except g and ch, which have a guttural sound like the ch in the Scotch word loch , or the g in the German Tag; w, which is pronounced like v ; j like the English y or ee ; and v like f. Final n is often dropped in colloquial speech ( e.g. Leyde' for Leyden). The definite article is de for the masculine and feminine, and het for the neuter ; genitive des , der, des, or van den, van de , van het ; dative den, der, den, or aan den, aan de, aan het ; plural for all genders de, der, den, de. The declension of substantives and adjectives resembles the German . The plural of substantives is formed by the addition of s or of en (dative plural always en). The pronouns are ik, I ; mij, me, to me ; gij , thou , you ; u, thee, to thee , you , to you ; hij, he ; hem, him , to him ; het , it ; sij, she; haar , her, to her ; zij , they ; hun, to them ; hen , them. Mijn , mijne, my ; uw, uwe, thy, your ; zijn , zijne, his ; haar, hare, her ; onze, ons, our ; hun, hunne, their. Wie, who (interrog. ) ; wat, what ; hoe, how ; wanneer, when . Cardinal numbers : een, twee , drie , vier, vijf, zes , zeven , acht, negen, tien , elf, twaalf, dertien, veertien , vijftien , zestien , zeven - ܪ < xxiv Language. HOLLAND. ܪ gij hebt tien , achtien, negentien , twintig , een en twintig , etc. , dertig , veertig , vijftig , zestig , zeventig , tachtig , negentig , honderd, duizend. Ordinal numbers: de eerste , de tweede, de derde, de vierde , achtste ( 8th ), etc. , de twintigste , de tachtigste ( 80th ), etc. Partitive numbers : een half, een derde, een vierde, etc. Auxiliary verbs. Hebben , to have ; zijn or wezen , to be; zullen , the infinitive of shall or will ( future sense) ; worden, to be in the formation of the passive voice). ik heb ik ben ik zal ik word gij zijt gij zult gij wordt hij, zij heeft hij, zij is hij, zij zal hij, zij wordt wij hebben wij zijn wij zullen wij worden gij hebt gij zijt gij zult gij wordt zij hebben zij zijn zij zullen . zij worden gehad, had . geweest , been . geworden , been . The conjugation of verbs and the construction of sentences closely resemble the German . The form of address among the upper classes is always U (prop erly Uwe Edele, Your lordship , Ital. Vossignoria ), with the third person singular, and often with the addition of Mynheer. A mar ried lady is addressed as Mevrouw (pronounced Měfrow ), a young lady as Jonge juffrouw . Juffrouw is uniformly used in addressing bar-maids, female attendants in shops, etc. · Among the common people gij or jij, abbreviated into je, is used with the second per son plural . Je is also made use of in familiar speech by persons of the upper ranks, but the stranger is recommended to abide by the more formal mode of address . Mag ik v vragen, hoe ga ik naar .. ? | May I ask you how I am to go to .. ? Wat is de kortste weg naar . Which is the shortest way to .. ? Ga regt uit, en dan de eerste straat Go straight on , and then by the first links , regts . street to the right , to the left. Ik dank v , mijnheer. Thank you , Sir. Ik zal met den spoorweg (or I shall travel by railway. simply met het spoor) reizen . Kruijer, breng de bagage naar het Porter, take the luggage to the spoor . station . Ik geloof het is te laat . I believe it is too late . In welke klasse gaat gij ? In which class will you go ? Ik zal een kaartje vor de tweede I shall take a ticket for thesecond klas nemen . class . Hoe laat is het ? What o'clock is it ? Het is kwartier voor tweeën , over It is a quarter to two , a quarter drieën , halftien . past three , half-past nine . De trein vertrekt om vijf uur en The train starts at 5 o'clock and komt om tien aan. arrives at ten . Hoe lang houden wij hier still ? How long do we stop here ? ? HOLLAND . Language. XXV Waar zijn wij nu ? Where are we now ? Dit is de laatste station . This is the last station . Koetsier, breng ons naar . Coachman, drive usto ... Wacht, ik moet nog mijne ba- Wait, I must fetch my luggage . gage halen . Een fooi. Bij het hôtel ... ophouden . To stop at the ... hotel . Hoeveel is de vracht ? What is the fare ? A fee . Kan ik een kamer hebben ? met Can I have a room ? with one bed , één bed, twee bedden . with two beds. Zeker, mijnheer. Certainly, Sir. Kellner, wat hebt gij te eten ? het Waiter , what have you to eat ? ontbijt, het middaggeten , het breakfast, dinner, supper ; to avondeten ; drinken . drink . Breng mij gebraden rundvleesch , Bring me roast beef, leg of mut schapenbout, kalfsborst, ham, ton , breast of veal , ham , fish , visch , aardappelen , groente potatoes , vegetables , bread , ( fem .), brood, boter, vruchten , butter , fruit , cheese , wine, kaas, wijn , bier. Mes, vork , beer . Knife , fork, spoon , glass, lepel, glas, bord, eene flesch . plate, bottle. Ile zal morgen om zeven ure ver- | I shall start to morrow at 7 trekken ; wek mij om zes . o'clock ; wake me at 6 . Hoeveel bedraagt onze nota ? How much does our bill come to ? Wat moeten wij v betalen ? What must we pay you ? In welke straat is het museum ? In which street is the museum ? Hoe ver is het van hier ? How far is it from here ? Wanneer is het geopend ? When is it open ? Dagelijks kosteloos , van tien tot Daily , gratis, from ten to three, drie uur, behalve except - ' S woendags en ' s zaturdags tegen Wednesdays and Saturdays on entréegeld. payment. Zondag, maandag, dinsdag, don- Sunday, Monday , Tuesday, Thurs derdag, vrijdag. day, Friday. Heden , morgen , gisteren. To- day, to-morrow, yesterday . Ik wensche eenige photographiën I want to buy some photographs, te koopen , gezigten van views of .. copies of the kopijen naar de schilderijen paintings of ...7 van .. Laat mij zien wat gij hebt . Let me see what you have. Dat is niet mooi. That is not pretty. Wat is de prijs ? What is the price ? Wat vraagt gij er voor ? What do you ask for this ? Ik heb geen klein geld bij mij ; I have no change with me ; can kunt gij mij wisselen ? you change me (some money) ? Ja, mijnheer ; neen, mijnheer. Yes, sir ; no, sir. Als ' t v belieft. If you please. Met vragen komt men te Rome. By questioning one gets to Rome. xxvi Railways. HOLLAND. a V. Picture Galleries and Collections. PICTURE GALLERIES AND COLLECTIONS are generally open from 10 a.m. till 3 or 4 p.m. In all collections belonging to the state gratuities are forbidden ; sticks and umbrellas must be given up at the door, but no charge is made for taking care of them . These last remarks do not apply to municipal collections. The usual gratuity at private collections is 1 fl. VI. Railways. Most of the remarks made with regard to Belgian railways apply to the Dutch also, except that the fares in Holland are considerably higher. In 1890 there were about 828 M. of government, and 866 M. of private lines in use . Holland also possesses an exten sive system of steam -tramways. The best railway , steamboat , and diligence time-tables are contained in Van Santen's Officieele Reisgids voor Nederland , published monthly ( with map, price 25 cents) . The hours of de parture of the fast trains ( 1st and 2nd class) are printed in Italics ; ( vertrek ) means departure, and a. (aankomst) arrival. To change carriages is overstappen . The Utrechter Administratie Reisgids ( price 5 c . ) also serves most purposes. VII. Dutch Characteristics . Towns. Most of the Dutch towns , especially those in Noord Holland , Zuid -Holland , Friesland , and Groningen , as well as the open country, are intersected in every direction by canals (Grachten ), which are generally enlivened with numerous barges. The different quarters of the towns are connected by means of drawbridges (ophaalbruggen) , now being replaced , however , by swing -bridges (draaibruggen) . The roads and streets skirting the canals are usually planted with trees , which render them shady and picturesque . The Dutch houses are generally lofty and narrow, and construct ed of red brick and white cement. The beams occasionally seen pro jecting from the gables are used for hoisting up goods to the lofts, which are used as magazines . The windows of the ground -floor being generally of ample dimensions , and polished with the scrupulous care which characterises the Dutch of all classes , the houses present a far more cheerful and prosperous appearance than is usual in large towns. At the cellar-doors in the side-streets, sign -boards with the words ' water en vuur te koop' (water and fire to sell ) are frequently observed . At these humble establishments boiling-water and red - hot turf are sold to the poorer classes for the pre paration of their tea or coffee . Many of the houses and public build ings are considerably out of the perpendicular, a circumstance due to the soft and yielding nature oftheground on which they stand . In many Dutch towns the custom prevails of affixing bulletins to the doors of houses in which persons are sick, in order that their HOLLAND Characteristics. xxvii 7 friends may be apprised of the state of their health without knocking or ringing. At Haarlem and Enkhuizen the birth of a child is announced by means of a small placard adorned with red silk and lace , and the friends of the family are entertained on these occasions with 'kandeel (a kind of mulled wine) and 'kaneel-koekjes' ( cinnamon - cakes ). Betrothals are celebrated by an unlimited consumption of bruidsuiker? ( “ bridal sugar', or sweet cakes) and 'bruidstranen' ( 'bridal tears', as the spiced wine is figuratively called). The Chimes in the towers of the churches, or other public build ings , proclaim the quarters of every hour by playing a few bars of some popular or operatic air, a pleasing custom , of which how ever the effect is destroyed by too frequent repetition . The 'Gaperi ( gaper ), a painted Turk's or Moor's head , is a customary sign for druggists' shops. A large crown , decorated with box-leaves and gilding , suspended beneath the Dutch flag, is an indication that new herrings have arrived in the shop thus adorned . " Tapperijº ( tap -room ), or ‘ hier verkoopt man sterke dranken ' ( strong drinks are sold here), with the addition of ver gunning (licensed), are the common signs for taverns. 'Dit huis is te huur' ( this house is to hire, or let) is also frequently observed . Stoofjes, or foot -warmers , are universally employed by the female members of the community , and are seen in great numbers in the churches . The Dutch love of cleanliness sometimes amounts almost to a monomania. The scrubbing, washing, and polishing which most houses undergo once every week, externally as well as internally, are occasionally somewhat subversive of comfort. Spiders appear to be regarded with especial aversion , and vermin is fortunately as rare as cobwebs. COUNTRY HOUSES (buitenplaatsen , or buitens) . Although na ture has not bestowed her charms lavishly on Holland , the careful cultivation of the fields, gardens, and plantations imparts a pictur esque and prosperous appearance to the country. In the vicinity of the larger cities, especially on the Vecht between Utrecht and Amsterdam , and also at Arnhem , Haarlem , etc. , numerous villas and country - seats are seen near the roads and canals , frequently enclosed by carefully kept gardens , parks , and pleasure-grounds. These paradises of the Dutch gentry and retired merchants , which are too often built in bad taste, and disfigured with paint and stucco, usually bear inscriptions characteristic of the sentiments of their proprietors, and breathing a spirit of repose and comfort. Thus : ' Lust en Rusť (pleasure and repose) , “ Wel Tevreden ' (well content), 'Mijn Genoegen' (my satisfaction ), "Mijn Lust en Leven' (my pleasure and life), Vriendschap en Gezelschap' ( friendship and sociability ), Vreugde bij Vrede ( joy with peace) , ' Groot Genoeg' (large enough), ' Buiten Zorg' ( without care ). Many villas rejoice 2 xxviii Dykes. HOLLAND , in much lengthier titles , which perhaps appear peculiarly appro priate to the occupants, but cannot fail to excite a smile when read by strangers . Few of these country - houses are seen from the rail way, and the traveller should therefore endeavour to visit some of the more attractive of those mentioned in the following pages. GASTHUISEN AND HOFJES. A Gasthuis is a hospital. The number of benevolent institutions in Holland, dating from earlier centuries, is remarkably great. Hofjes are groups of dwellings, arranged round a court or yard, and occupied as almshouses by aged persons . Oudeman nen and Oudevrouwen houses, orphanages maintained by the various religious denominations , and similar institutions are very numerous, The Village Feasts ( ' kermis' , literally "church -mass', i . e . the anniversary of the foundation of the church ) form a substitute for the Carnival of Roman Catholic countries, but the gaieties on these occasions too frequently degenerate into scenes of drunken revelry. The popular refreshments at these festivities are ' Hollands' and ' Poffertjes', a kind of cake sold in the booths erected for the purpose . The picturesque national Costumes, which are fast disappearing from the larger towns, are seen to advantage on these festive occasions. WINDMILLS (molens) are a characteristic of almost every Dutch landscape , and often occupy the old ramparts and bastions of the towns, which they appear to defend with their gigantic arms. Many of them are used in grinding corn, sawing timber, cutting tobacco, manufacturing paper , etc. , but one of their most important func tions is to pump up the superfluous water from the low ground to the canals which conduct it to the sea. The highly - cultivated state of the country bears testimony to the efficiency of this system of drainage . Many of the windmills are of vast dimensions , each sail sometimes exceeding 60 ft. in length . DYKES. Holland , as a whole , is probably the lowest country in the world, the greater part of it lying many feet below the sea level. The safety of the entire kingdom therefore depends upon the dykes , or embankments , by which the encroachment of the sea is prevented . In many places these vast and costly structures are equally necessary to prevent inundation by the rivers , the beds of which are gradually raised by alluvial deposits. The first care of the constructor of dykes is to lay a secure and massive foundation , as a preliminary to which the ground is stamped or compressed in order to increase its solidity. The dykes themselves are composed of earth , sand , and mud , which when thoroughly consolidated are entirely impervious to water. The surface is then covered with twigs of willows , interwoven with elaborate care , the interstices of which are filled with clay so as to bind the whole into a solid mass. The willows , which are extensively cultivated for the purpose , are renewed every three or Many of the dykes , moreover, are planted with trees, > > > four years, > HOLLAND Canals . xxix the roots of which contribute materially to the consolidation of the structure . Others are provided with bulwarks of masonry , or protected by stakes against the violence of the waves , while the surface is covered with turf. The most gigantic of these embankments are those of the Hel der (p . 341), and of Westcapelle on the W. coast of the island of Wal cheren ( p . 245 ). The annual cost of maintaining the latter alone amounts to 75,000 fl. , while the total expenditure through out Holland for works of this description is estimated at six million florins. A corps of engineers , termed De Waterstaat, is occupied exclusively in superintending these works . The con stantly - imminent nature of the danger will be thoroughly ap preciated by the stranger, if he stands at the foot of one of the great dykes at high tide, and hears the breakers dashing against the other side of the barrier, at a height of 16-18 ft. above his head . The force of the old Dutch proverb ' God made the sea , we made the shore' , will also be apparent. CANALs intersect the country in every direction . They serve a threefold purpose : ( 1 ) as high-roads, for purposes of traffic ; ( 2 ) as drains , by which superfluous water is removed from the cultivated land ; (3) as enclosures for houses , fields , and gardens, being as commonly used for this purpose in Holland as walls and hedges in other countries . The Dutch canals differ from those in most other countries in being generally broader , but variable in width , while locks are rare , as the level of the water is nearly always the same . Those canals, however, which are connected with the sea are closed at their extremities by massive flood - gates, to prevent the en croachment of the sea when its level is higher than the water in the canal . The principal canals are about 60 ft. in width , and 6 ft. in depth . Not only the surface of the water, but the bed of the canal is often considerably above the level of the surrounding country. The three most important works of this kind in Holland are the great North Holland Canal ( p . 336) , 42 M. in length , 43 yds . in width , and 20 ft. in depth ; the North Sea Canal across ' Holland op zyn smaalst (p . 337) , connecting Amsterdam and the North Sea ; and the Willems- Canal in N. Brabant. POLDER is a term applied to a morass or lake, the bed of which has been reclaimed by draining. A great part of Holland and Flanders has been thus reclaimed , and rendered not only habit able, but extremely valuable for agricultural purposes. The first step in the process of drainage consists in enclosing the marsh with a dyke , to prevent the admission of water from with out. The water is then removed by means of water-wheels of pecu liar construction, formerly driven by windmills, now by steam - en gines. The marsh or lake to be reclaimed is sometimes too deep to admit of the water at once being transferred to the main canals, and 7 XXX Dunes. HOLLAND. thus carried off . In these cases a system of dykes , one within the other, and each provided with a canal on its exterior , forins an as cending series of levels, from the lower of which the water is grad ually transferred to the higher, and thence finally into the principal channels. An excellent example of this is seen in the Schermer Polder (p. 341) , where four different levels have been formed . These canals , although separate from one another , are all provided with means of communication , by which if necessary the water from the higher can be discharged into the lower. The extraordinary fertility of the land thus reclaimed is chiefly accounted for by the fact , that superfluous water can be removed by means of the water-wheels on the shortest notice , while in dry seasons a thorough system of irrigation is constantly available . The appearance of these polders differs materially from that of the rest of the country. The speculators by whom they are drained map them out with mathematical precision into parcels , separated by canals and rows of trees at right angles, and furnished with houses of precisely uniform construction , all affording manifest indications of the artificial nature of the ground . The polders often lie under water in winter, but this by no means impairs the fertility of the soil , provided the water is not salt. The principal polders are the Beemster , Purmer , Schermer ( pp . 342, 341), that of Haarlem ( p . 258) , reclaimed in 1840-53, and the recently - drained polder of the Y ( p . 337 ) . It is now proposed to convert the whole of the Zuider Zee into apolder, whereby Holland would gain an additional province of 687 sq . M. in area at an estimated cost of 120 million florins, or about 341. sterling per acre . Dunes, or downs, are the low sand -hills, 30-160 ft. in height, which extend along the coast of Holland and Flanders , having been thrown up by the action of the wind and waves. Those nearest the sea are of very unsubstantial consistency , and being frequently altered in shape by the wind they afford little or no sup port to vegetable life . Between the central downs ( the highest and broadest) and those farther inland , is situated an almost uninter rupted tract of pasture and arable land , studded with cottages, and producing excellent potatoes . Most of the downs are honeycombed with rabbit-warrens, which often afford excellent sport. In order to prevent the sand of the downs from covering the adjacent land , they are annually sown with the plants that most readily take root in such poor soil , especially the reed-grass (Dutch , helm ; arundo arenarea ). In course of time the roots spread and entwine in every direction, thus gradually consolidating the sand. A substratum of vegetable soil once formed , the arid and useless sand-hill is converted into a smiling and fertile agricultural district, in which even plantations of pines appear to thrive. HOLLAND. History. xxxi VIII. History and Statistics . The earliest inhabitants of the district at the embouchures of the Rhine are said to have accompanied the Cimbri and Teutones in their expedition against Italy. Several banished tribes of the Catti, who settled in the deserted island of Betuwe ( p. 357), were conquered by the Romans , whose supremacy over this part of the country continued from the failure of the great rebellion of Clau dius Civilis till the end of the 4th cent. , when the Salic Franks, the inhabitants of the banks of the Yssel, took possession of the Be tuwe, and established themselves between the Schelde, Meuse, and Lower Rhine. The district to the N. E. of the Salic Franks was occupied by the Frisians, to the E. of whom were the Saxons. The supremacy of Charlemagne extended over the whole of the Netherlands. Under his successors the system of investing vassal- princes with the land gradually developed itself. The most powerful of these were the Bishops of Utrecht, the Dukes of Guel ders , and the Counts of Holland. In 1274 Count William II . of Holland was elected German Emperor through the influence of Pope Innocent IV. In 1512 the Dutch provinces were enrolled as a. part of the Burgundian section of the Germanic Empire. Underthe Emperor Charles V. the whole of the Netherlands were united (1543) , and they now enjoyed a golden era of prosperity, in consequence of the powerful protection accorded by that monarch to commerce and navigation . Under his bigoted son and successor Philip II . of Spain , after the Duke of Alva's arrival at Brussels ( 1568) , began that memorable, and at first apparently-hopeless struggle which lasted for 80 years , and terminated in the re cognition of the Northern Netherlands as an independent state by the haughty Spaniards , and the establishment of the powerful Dutch Republic. The great founder of Dutch liberty was William of Nassau, ' the Taciturn ', Prince of Orange, a German nobleman, who was born at Dillenburg in the Duchy of Nassau in 1533. He was a great favour ite of the Emperor Charles V. , who appointed him, when 22 years of age only , 'stadtholder' or governor of the provinces of Holland, Zealand , and Utrecht. The Low Countries having come into the possession of the Duke of Alva , the Spanish Governor , William retired to Dillenburg, but in 1572 was invited by Holland and Zea land to take the command of their troops against the Spaniards . He shortly afterwards captured Middelburg, and succeeded in raising the siege of the distressed town of Leyden. On 29th Jan., 1579, was formed the famous defensive league of the N. Netherlands, known as the Utrecht Union. William was shortly afterwards con demned to banishment by Philip II. , but the States General bravely defied the king's authority , and in 1581 formally threw off their allegiance to the Spanish crown. On 10th ! July, 1584, William fell by the hand of an assassin at Delft (p. 256), very shortly before ܕ > xxxii History. HOLLAND. the day on which the States intended to have conferred upon him the dignity of an hereditary count of Holland . The year following his death his son Maurice was elected stadtholder in his stead . Under his presidency ( 1585-1625 ) the power and wealth of the Republic rapidly increased , active hostilities were frequently undertaken against the Spaniards, and the E. Indian trading com pany was formed ( 1602). Meanwhile, however, there arose serious dissensions between the democratic and the government parties , which were greatly aggravated by the pernicious theological contro versies of the Arminians and the Gomarists (p. 378). Contrary to the sound advice of the stadtholder , the States in their anxiety for commercial prosperity concluded a twelve years' peace with Spain in 1609. Incensed by the quarrels which now ensued , Maurice caused the influential John van Oldenbarneveld , the pensionary or chancellor of the province of Holland, then in his 72nd year, to be arrested and condemned to death by a partial tribunal in 1619 ( p . 262) , but by this judicial murder he did not succeed in intimid ating his refractory subjects . Maurice died in 1625, and was suc ceeded by his brother Frederick Henry ( 1625-47), under whom the unity of the Republic became more consolidated , and the prosperity of the States reached its climax. Both by land and by sea they triumphed over the Spaniards in the hostilities which now broke out afresh ; and in 1628 the gallant admiral Piet Hein captured the Spanish ' silver fleet'. The Dutch commerce of that period was the most widely extended in the world . The great Dutch navigators Houtman , Heemskerck, Davis , Schou ten, Lemaire, Hartog, Edels, Schapenham , Nuyt, Vianen , Caron, Tas man, De Vries, Van Campen, and Berkel, explored the most distant coasts in the world during this period , while the E. Indian factories, especially that of Batavia, which had been established in 1619, yielded a rich harvest. The Dutch school of painting now attained its culminating point (comp. p. lii ), and the sciences were also highly cultivated during this prosperous epoch , as the well -known names of Grotius , Vossius, Heinsius, Gronovius, etc. , abundantly testify. Frederick Henry died in 1647 , shortly before the Peace of Westphalia, by which the independence of the United States of the Netherlands was formally recognised , and was succeeded by his son William, then in his 21st year. The renewal of dissensions between the States and the stadt holder determined them, on the early death of this prince in 1650 , not to elect a new governor, and the reins of government were now entrusted to the distinguished Grand Pensionary John de Witt , an able and energetic senator. During this period the navigation acts were passed by Crom well , placing restrictions on the Dutch trade , and thus giving rise to the war which called into activity the talents of Tromp, De 2 HOLLAND. History . xxxii Witt, De Ruyter, and other naval heroes , whose memory is still justly cherished by the Dutch . Within the brief period of sixteen months (1652-54 ) no fewer than twelve great naval battles were fought, in most of which the arms of the Republic were crowned with success. By the peace concluded in 1654, however, the States were obliged to recognise the authority of the navigation acts . In 1665 a war with England again broke out, during which, in 1667, De Ruyter even entered the estuary of the Thames with his fleet , endangering the safety of London itself , to the great consternation of the citizens. Notwithstanding this success , the peace concluded shortly afterwards was again productive of little benefit to Holland. Meanwhile Louis XIV. of France had disclosed his designs against the Netherlands , and had taken possession of the part be longing to Spain . His proceedings against Holland, however , were checked for a time by the triple alliance between England, Holland, and Sweden , concluded by the advice of the Grand Pensionary de Witt. In 1672, after the dissolution of the alliance, Louis renewed his attacks on the now almost defenceless Union , whose army had been entirely neglected since the death of Prince William . Condé and Turenne took possession of the provinces of Guelders, Over-Yssel, and Utrecht almost without a blow , while that of Hol land, with its capital Amsterdam , only succeeded in averting the same fate by means of an artificially caused inundation . The people , believing that they had been betrayed by their government , now broke out into a rebellion to which De Witt fell a victim (p . 270), and which resulted in the revival of the office of stadtholder. William III. ( 1672-1702) , the last, and after its founder great est, scion of his house, was accordingly elected , and the office of stadtholder declared hereditary. Under his auspices, with the aid of the Elector of Brandenburg and the Spanish troops, the French were defeated, and the war was at length terminated by the Peace of Nymegen in 1678 . William III . , who had thus been instrumental in asserting the liberties of Europe against the usurping encroachments of the 'Grand Monarque', married the daughter of the Duke of York, afterwards King James II . of England. In 1688 he undertook that bold expedition across the Channel which resulted in the deliverance of England from the arbitrary government of the Stuarts and the final establishment of constitutional liberty and Protestantism in Great Britain. The following year he was elected King by parlia ment, retaining at the same time the office of stadtholder of the Netherlands. In his new position he continued strenuously to oppose the increasing power of France. The united fleets of England and Holland gained a decisive victory over the French near La Hogue in 1692, and by the Peace of Ryswyk in 1697 Louis was compelled to restore a considerable part of his conquests. William was now BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 9 a с xxxiv History. HOLLAND. estranged from his native country , but shortly before his death , without issue, in 1702, he brought about the ' Great Alliance' which disputed the right of the French monarch to succeed to the crown of Spain. Following the example of the States General ( p. xxxi) , the five most important provinces now declared the office of Stadtholder abolished . Their foreign policy , however, underwent no alteration on this account . Prince John William Friso ( d. 1711 , see p . 175), stadtholder of Friesland and cousin of William III, succeeded to the command of the army of the Republic, which took part in the war of the Spanish succession . Under his presidency the power of the States General manifested itself anew . The flower of the Dutch army fell at the bloody victory of Malplaquet (p. 180), and in 1714 the Peace Congress assembled at Utrecht , on Dutch soil. The events of the 18th cent. scarcely require special mention . The Republic had lost its prestige , and in the continuing alliance with England the preponderating power of the latter became more and more marked . When the French entered the territory of the Republic during the Austrian war of succession , the people com pelled the States to appoint William IV ., Prince of Orange , the son and successor of John William Friso, General Stadtholder over all the seven provinces; and in 1748 this dignity was once more declared hereditary . A revolution which broke out towards the close of the century ended in the expulsion of the Stadtholder William V. ; but he was reinstated in his office by the Prussian army, which had advanced almost unopposed to the gates of Amsterdam itself. The importance of the Republic had now dwindled to a mere shadow. In 1795 the French Republicans , led by Dutch exiles , took possession of the country , founded the ‘ Batavian Republic', and at the same time caused heavy taxes to be levied . Schimmel pennink, an able statesman , was created president of the new Re public, under the old title of Grand Pensionary , but in 1805 was compelled to yield up his authority to Louis Bonaparte, who had been created King of Holland by his brother Napoleon I. This semblance of independent existence came to an end in 1810, when Napoleon annexed Holland to France , declaring it to have been formed by the alluvial deposits of French rivers. At length in November, 1813 , the French were expelled from Holland by the Dutch , aided by the Russians and Prussians ; and the Prince of Orange, son of William V. , the last stadtholder, who died in exile in 1806, ascended the throne of Holland as an in dependent sovereign. By the Congress of Vienna in 1815 , the southern , or Belgian provinces of the Netherlands, were united with the northern into a single Kingdom , and the Prince of Orange was created King of the Netherlands , under the title of William I. This bond of union between two races differing materially in language, religion , and > 9 HOLLAND . Statistics . XXXV character was severed by the Belgian Revolution of 1830 (comp. p. xviii ). Ten years later William I. abdicated in favour of his son William II. , who died in 1849 , and was succeeded by William III. (born in 1817, married first in 1839 to Princess Sophia of Wurtemberg, who died in 1877, and secondly to the Princess Emma of Waldeck in 1879). At his death ( Nov. 23rd, 1890) the male line of the house of Nassau-Orange became extinct. He was succeeded by his daughter Wilhelmina ( b. 1880 ), during whose minority the queen -mother exercises the functions of regent. AREA and Population. The Kingdom of the Netherlands, including the Province of Limburg, is 12,650 sq. M. in area, and has (1889) a popu lation of 4,548,600 (2/5ths Rom . Cath. , 81,000 Jews). Amsterdam is the capital of the kingdom , and the Hagué isthe residence of the king. The Netherlands are divided into eleven provinces : N. Brabant (capital Her togenbosch ), Drenthe(Assen ), Friesland (Leeuwarden ), Guelderland ( Arnhem ), Groningen (Groningen ), N. Holland (Amsterdam), s. Holland ( Hague), Limburg (Maastricht), Over - Yssel (Zwolle), Utrecht (Utrecht), Zeeland (Mid delburg ). REVENUE. The annual income of the government (exclusive of the colonies) amounted in 1889 to 124,543,000 florins (about 10,379,0001. sterling), and the expenditure to 125,338,200 f . The budget for 1891' estimated the revenue and expenditure at 126,536,025'fl. and 135,930,839 fl . The national debt in 1890 amounted to 1,111,517,160 florins (about 92,626,0001.). The national colours are red , white , and blue , placed in horizontal lines (the French are placed vertically ); the motto, ' 'Je maintiendrai'. COLONIES. The most important Dutch colonies in the E. Indies are Java (capital Batavia ) , Sumatra , Borneo , and Celebes ; in the W. Indies Surinam , St. Eustache, and Curaçao ; to which must beadded a number of factories on the coast of Guinea . The total area of these possessions amounts to 766,000 sq. M. , the population to 29-30 million souls . COMMERCE. The merchant fleet of Holland in 1890 numbered 610 vessels (including 110 steamers), of an aggregate burden of 245,000 tons: The imports in 1839 amounted ' to 1245 million , the exports to 1094 million forins. The ARMy consists of 1 regiment of Grenadiers and Riflemen , 8 regi ments of Infantry , 3 regiments of Hussars , 3 regiments of Field -Artillery (18 batteries), 1 regiment of Horse Artillery (2 batteries ), and 4 regiments of Fortress Artillery (40° companies) , corps of the military train , ponto niers , 'depôt-battalions', instruction battalions , etc., amounting in all to 64,400 men. Beside the regular army there are the ‘Schutterys', a kind of national guard, and the 'landsturm ', or militia. The my in the colonies has a strength of about 32,000 men . The Navy consisted in ' 1889 of 147 vessels of war ( 24 iron- clads), com manded by three vice -admirals, 3 rear- admirals (“schouten-by-nacht"), 26 captains, 35 commanders, etc., and manned by upwards of 6900 hands. 7 An Historical Sketch of Art in the Netherlands. By Professor Springer. The traveller who would explore the Netherlands without tak ing account of the Art Treasures still preserved there, heedlessly disregards a source of the highest gratification. The collections in the cities, as well in Belgium as in Holland , can boast that they include many of the most remarkable creations of the art of a bygone period : works , moreover , which have not found their way hither by mere accident , but grow out of the very soil, so to speak, of these Low Countries, and have their raison d'être in the land , in those forms and fashions which to this day repeat themselves alike in the native landscape and in the habits of the people . How much more lively is the impression received from works of art when seen amidst their natural surroundings , is a matter of common and approved experience. Everything that is essentially characteristic in a picture , atmosphere and light, form , whether natural or otherwise, fashion and custom , present them selves to the beholder. The sources of the artist's inspiration , all that served to feed his fancy, are clearly manifest; while many a characteristic incident, which would otherwise escape observation or remain altogether unintelligible , receives its requisite inter pretation . It is true that the æsthetic value of individual pictures may be always in all places recognised . A Titian is lustrous even in St. Petersburg ; Dürer's incisive pencil asserts itself in Madrid . Nevertheless the historical significance of Art , the necessary cause of her development, can be understood by those only who will explore the scenes which witnessed her life's first dawn , particu larly when lapse of time has failed materially to alter the character of such scenes. A distinction which the Netherlands enjoy in common with Italy consists in the opportunity afforded of obtaining the best possible insight into the mysterious quickening of the artistic spirit ; a comprehensive survey , too , of art's earliest promise and maturity , and her identity with the national life . That continuity and many sidedness of national art, which in Italy is so pronounced, the Nether lands do not, however, possess. Twice only - once in the 15th , and once in the 17th century - do they furnish remarkable material for the history of modern art. Earlier centuries reveal a poor art life, and the intervals between the two periods referred to fail to make HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART. xxxvii > any profound impression, however useful they may have been in the development of the personality of the artist. Both in the 15th and in the 17th century the artistic strength of the country devoted itself to painting. The art of the Netherlands owes its fame to the brilliant achievements of its painters. CHURCHES. During the centuries of the Middle Ages, art in the Netherlands did not by any means keep pace with the advance made in Germany and France : it was slow to move, and followed in th : wake first of German, and later of French art. The number of Ro MANESQUE buildings in Belgian territory — for Holland must first be noticed in connection with the Gothic era — is not great. Of these the Cathedral of Tournai ( p. 59) is the most prominent example. The influence of lower Rhenish architecture ( that of Cologne ), is ex hibited in this cathedral, which , in respect of scale , surpasses all the older churches . At the same time there is an evident approxi mation to the French style , which, after the 13th century, pervaded the entire land. It is much to be regretted that our acquaintance with the history of this church is so imperfect. Certain it is , that the present edifice was begun in the12th century and completed in the14th . When in the adjacent territory of Northern France the GOTHIC STYLE had acquired completeness , the Netherlands adopted this model. The southern portion of the land now became , in the realm of architecture, a mere province of France ; and indeed French influence extended gradually to politics and culture also . Stately Gothic cathedrals rear themselves in the more considerable Belgian towns. With the church of St. Gudule in Brussels are associated the choir of the church of Notre Dame at Bruges , St. Bavon at Ghent , St. Rombaut at Malines , the Cathedral of Louvain , and , lastly , the renowned Cathedral of Antwerp , where a lamentable want of structural harmony must be noted , more particularly in the spire , whose toppling height rather astonishes by its audacity than delights by its beauty. Although there is an evident preference for lofty towers (the double tower is seldom seen , but rather a single tower in advance of the western extremity ), yet , as a rule , an endeavour to secure a spacious area visibly determines the general proportions, while the soaring height and slender support which give so marked a character to the in teriors of the cathedrals of France and Germany , are but slightly regarded. Double aisles are frequent in the churches ; but the height of the nave seldom exceeds 80 or 90 feet, being but twice, not as was usual elsewhere, three times, the width. The Dutch churches are of similar construction . Gothic architecture was much more preva lent in Holland than generally supposed ; Utrecht , Amsterdam , Haarlem , Leyden , and Rotterdam , for example , possess Gothic churches on a grand scale . The building material, however, namely brick , which has been used (the Germans learned its use from the Dutch ), gives a ponderous appearance to these edifices; while the xxxviii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART wood covering which conceals the vaulted roof, the absence of archi tectural ornamentation , and, finally, change in the forms of worship , have done much to destroy their original beauty. But we do not visit Holland to study ecclesiastical Gothic . SECULAR BUILDINGS. Of far greater interest are those Gothic buildings erected for secular and civic purposes , in which Flan ders is especially rich . So early as the 12th century , mighty towers to serve as belfrys were erected in the midst of fortified towns , for the purpose of mustering the citizens by sound of bell in the event of an enemy's approach or of alarm from fire . Attached to the belfries , or erected separately , are spacious Halles , im posing edifices, used for the display of those products of Flemish industry which were once foremost in the markets of the world . The Hôtel de Ville adorns the principal square of the town. Its façade generally exhibits the wealth of decoration belonging to the later Gothic ; while, in the interior , sculptor and painter found occasion for the exercise of their respective arts . The belfries at Tournai and Ghent, the ‘ halles' of Bruges and Ypres, and the ‘ hôtels de ville' of Bruges, Brussels , and Louvain, call for especial notice from the traveller ; and , in case he should be interested in antiquated do mestic architecture, he will find a rich treat provided for him in Bruges and Antwerp , once chief among Hanseatic towns. These buildings date as far back as the 15th and 16th centuries, a time when painting in the Netherlands bore its first fruits. PAINTING . To connect these early efforts with the power and wealth of the old Hanseatic League , and to find in the sump tuous habits of the Burgundian Princes the chief impulse to the rapid development of the painter's art in the Netherlands, is obviously natural and reasonable . How the eye of the painter must have revelled in the varied costumes , in the manifold and sharply defined types, whether of native or foreigner, which he encountered in the motley assemblage that thronged these cities of the League! We may well conceive the artist's imagination to have been fascinated by the wealth of colour presented by a picture composed of weather -beaten mariners, sturdy labourers , burly citizens, and sagacious traders . The early practice of portrait- painting may also be attributed to the spirit prevailing in the Hanseatic towns. The interest in this branch of the painter's art originated probably in the self -complacency which naturally possesses a community of substantial burghers , proud of their vo cations and achievements. Further , the Burgundian Princes, in the gratification of their love of splendour, found, as trustworthy accounts assure us, abundant employment for the artist as well as artizan. In their luxurious court, with its brilliant retinue, there must have been robes of state , glittering weapons, costly furniture , besides pourtly manners, to captivate the eye and engage the attention of he painter. Undoubted, however, as the effect of such influences IN THE NETHERLANDS. xxxix was in giving a particular direction to painting in the Nether lands , they assuredly were not the source from which it sprung. It was not until the painter's art was emancipated from the tram mels of a traditional practice , that it found favour at court, and in the towns of the League. Up to the beginning of the 15th century Art was in neither a better nor worse condition than in adjacent lands , though the paint ers of Cologne could undoubtedly claim pre-eminence . Such spe cimens of wall-painting in the Low Countries as are still pre served , show an entire want of professional training. The works of the miniature painters, however, rank higher. Encouraged by com missions from French Princes , they were elaborately finished , and both in colour and drawing give evidence of a higher education in the artists. Sculpture , too , could boast of sterling work. If any general inference is to be drawn from monumental effigies preserved in Tournai, and dating from the beginning of the 15th century , a school of sculpture existed there , which successfully aimed at a truthful rendering of nature . The practice of painting works of sculpture brought the sister arts into more intimate relation. So far, however, was sculpture in advance , that painters found them selves reduced to the expedient of adopting the plastic mode of treatment in the disposal of groups, as well as in drawing and the treatment of drapery. A long interval elapsed ere painting acquired a style of its own, and until every trace of the plastic relief had dis appeared . Such was the condition of the painter's art in the Nether lands, when the two brothers Van Eyck made their appearance , but we are not in a position to indicate their immediate predecessors, nor to determine with certainty the circumstances of their early training. The two brothers Van Eyck were natives of Maaseyck, near Mas tricht, where Hubert, the elder , was born somewhere about the years 1360-70. Wolfram von Eschenbach , in his 'Perze val' , had already pronounced the painters of Maastricht and Cologne to be the best of his time, but how painting at Maastricht or Limburg was employed in Hubert's time we know not . Absolutely nothing is known of the course of Hubert's early training, of his school , or early works. About the year 1420 , we find him settled at Ghent, where a guild of painters had already long existed , along with his brother. Whether while here he was the teacher or the taught, whether the local influences of Ghent first modified his conceptions and method , or whether the guild in Ghent derived new light from him , cannot be determined. We know of only one work from Hubert van Eyck’s hand, indisputably identified as his, and it was painted in the concluding years of his life, and left by him un finished . This is the gigantic Altarpiece which Jodocus Vyts com missioned him to paint for the St. Bavon church in Ghent. In it he still clings to the traditional rules of composition in the observance of the severely-symmetrical proportions of an architectural struo > 2 2 x HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART ture. But while he fails to dispose the crowd of figures in separate groups , he succeeds in giving to the heads a portrait-like indi viduality ; he is careful to render the varied texture of the draperies, and in modelling the nude figure he closely imitates nature in every minute particular. For example, in the figure of Adam (now detached from the original picture and preserved along with Eve in the Brussels Museum , p . 101), even the short hairs of thearms and legs are carefully elaborated . But the most surprising innovation is in the colouring, to which he gave wonderful force and harmony, using it to give effect to an appearance of reality almost deceptive . The old belief that Hubert invented oil- painting cannot indeed be unreservedly accepted. But, although oil had long been in use as a vehicle, Hubert's merit is not the less conspicuous. He is still the first who adapted the invention to the purposes of art, by employing the fluid medium for the more subtle blending of colours. By this means he so far facilitated the process of painting, that the endea vour to give a faithful , life - like rendering of nature was com pletely successful. He possessed himself of the means by which alone effect could be given to the new impulse in art. We can have no better proof of the importance attached to this new method of painting introduced by Hubert, than in the sensation it made in Italy , where the invention and its publication were invested with the attributes of romance . Hubert's connection with his brother Jan van Eyck ( born 1381 -1395 ) is involved in some obscurity , but the latter came to be regarded as the more capable of the two. Unjustly so, however, as the younger brother with his own hand bears record, in an inscription on the Altar- piece at Ghent , in these words: Hubertus --- major quo nemo repertus' , thus showing that Hubert was at least his equal . We are, at the same time , very imperfectly informed of Jan's early training, though we know a good deal about his public career. While Hubert, it would appear , found favour with the wealthy burghers of Ghent, Jan took service in the courts, first of John of Bavaria , afterwards of Philip the Good . He lived for some years at the Hague , later in Lille , and after Hubert's death removed to Ghent, in order to finish the Altar -piece. In 1432 he migrated to Bruges, where he died on 9th July , 1440 , about fourteen years after his brother. His peculiar art can best be studied in Bruges ; not that many of his works are to be found there, but that the self same genius still pervades the place which inspired the school of early Flemish painters. Bruges still remains outwardly very much what it was in the 16th century . The old houses have lost nothing of their character and dignity by contact with the newer buildings which have sprung up in their midst ; while , in the quiet of the comparatively - forsaken thoroughfares , there is nothing to listurb the wanderer in quest of reminiscences of the Bruges of ygone days . Just as Nuremberg, some half-century ago, vividly re IN THE NETHERLANDS. xli called the age of Dürer, so in Bruges a perfectly clear conception may still be had of the period which witnessed the labours of the Eycks and Memling. But, in any case , two admirable works by Jan van Eyck in the Academy at Bruges afford a valuable opportunity of appreciating his art. In keeping with a strong determination towards a more portrait - like and realistic conception of nature, is the endeavour, observable in his method , after a greater fulness of outline and an exact rendering of textures. The direction of his aim is indicated by the fact of his having painted genre pictures with definite motive — the ‘ Bath - room ' for example. There can be no doubt that Jan van Eyck had pupils ; but there can be as little doubt that there were painters, both in Ghent and Bruges , who adopted Van Eyck's method , and imitated his style , though not recognised as members of his school. Owing to the scanty information possessed of art in the Netherlands during the 15th century, nothing can be conclusively affirmed on the sub ject . Petrus Cristus may be mentioned as a pupil of Jan van Eyck, at Bruges ; as independent masters Gerard van der Meire and Hugo van der Goes, of Ghent. The people were as averse to centralisation in the domain of art- training as in the conduct of state affairs . While the Van Eycks were carrying their art from the Valley of the Meuse to Bruges and Ghent, another great artist was founding a school of painting at Brussels. ROGER VAN DER WEYDEN is apparently identical with that Rogelet de la Pasture who , in 1426 , worked as a pupil of Robert Campin at Tournai, and in 1432 was admitted as master in the Paint ers' guild . We find Van der Weyden installed as painter to the town of Brussels in 1436. In 1450 he appears in Rome, as the first north ern painter of undisputed fame whose name was honoured by the Italians, uncompromising though he was in adhering to the practice of his native art. On his return he again took up his abode in Brussels, still painting, and died in 1464. In the absence of any signature, his works are confounded with those of Jan van Eyck, with whom he had nothing in common , and with those of Memling, who was his pupil . They are, moreover, scattered far and near, and have to be sought for at Madrid, Rome, Frankfort, Munich, Berlin , etc. The Museum of Antwerp, however, possesses in the Seven Sacra ments one of the most prominent works of this master, who was peculiarly successful in depicting scenes of dramatic interest (Descent from the Cross) ; too often, however, his power of animated expression betrays a want of feeling for beauty of form , and is continually suggestive of tinted reliefs . HANS MEMLING, the pupil of Van der Weyden , bears the least possible resemblance to him . According to a legend, which in earlier times received general credence , Memling, having been wounded at the battle of Nancy, was arried to Bruges , where , in gratitude for the tender care bestowed upon him in the Hospital of St. John, he > > 7 xlii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART painted numerous pictures. This story may be placed in the same category as those of Dürer's malevolent spouse, and of the licent iousness of the later,Dutch painters. Memling was born (in Mainz) about the year 1430 ; was, in 1472, already actively engaged as paint er ; in 1478 was permanently established in Bruges , a well-to-do house proprietor in the Vlaminckdamm ( now Rue St. George) , and died Aug. 11th , 1495. The little we know of him personally is in some measure compensated for by the great number of his works stillextant. Bruges, in particular, can boast of possessing literally a Memling museum . In the Academy is the Triptych with the St. Christopher, in the Hospital of St. John the so-called St. John Altar , the Ad oration of the Magi , the Madonna with Martin Nieuwenhoven , the portrait of Catharine Moreel , and , finally , the Ursula casket , the most ornate and captivating illustration of legendary lore bequeathed by the art of this early period . In Memling, indeed , it may be said the school of Van Eyck exhibits its highest attainments . Pure and luminous colouring is combined with correct drawing; a keen percep tion of Nature with a coherent sense of the beautiful. Crowe and Cavalcaselle, in their history of old Flemish Painters, speak of Mem ling as a lyric bard , and if his forms lack ideality, he knows how to give them the impress of a winsome beauty. His Madonnas, whose golden hair falls over the shoulders , or is gathered up in luxuriant tresses, combine dignity with a sainted loveliness. Painting flourished in the 15th century in Holland no less than in the southern Netherlands, though the earlier masters, such as Albert van Ouwater, are represented but by few works . A more tangible personality is that of Dierick Bouts ( 1465-1475 ), who removed from Haarlem to Louvain, and with his industrious pencil announced the fundamental characteristic of Dutch painting, in his delicate appre ciation of landscape beauty . Gerard David , of Bruges ( 1483-1523), in the S. , and Jacob Kornelissen or Jacob van Oostzanen ( ca. 1506 1530) , in the N. , may be regarded as offshoots of the older school . Both are fine colourists and distinguished for the tender sweetness of their female figures . Dramatic conception was foreign to both . We have , indeed , aburidant cause to deplore the ravages of time, when we proceed to sum up the number of authenticated old Flemish pictures still in existence . Scarcely, indeed , do we possess mementoes of ten painters , such as enable us to form a really distinct and vivid conception of their character as artists ; yet this old Netherlands school was busy for eighty years ; nor was its activity confined to Bruges and Ghent alone, but was shared by Ant werp, Brussels, and in the North by Leyden and Haarlem. One im portant cause of this absence of reliable accounts lay in the new direction taken by the Netherlands school of painting in the 16th century, which had the effect of depreciating the works of their predecessors in the general estimation , and finally of committing them to oblivion . For the Netherlands, like the rest of the North , IN THE NETHERLANDS. xliii became subject to the spirit of the Italian Renaissance. Under the Burgundian rule, literature had already been alienated from the popular sympathies , and even so it was now with pictorial art . Lu cas van Leyden , and Quinten Massys, of Antwerp ( 1466-1531 ), are the last distinguished masters who were not carried away by this current. The importance of the former, however, is chiefly due to his admirable engravings ; while Massys sometimes displays a vigour of sentiment at variance with the hitherto habitual concep tion . Quinten Massys is, indeed , generally regarded as the connect ing link between the old school of the Van Eycks and Rubens. The influence of the Renaissance reached the Netherlands, as it reached Germany, in the 16th century. In the domains of Architec ture and Sculpture the ensuing breach with previous native styles seems to have been less abrupt than in the domain of painting. The narrow Gothic house, with its stepped gable , long held its ground ; and although Italian modes of ornamentation attained the ascendancy in the first half of the 16th century, yet in the second half the na tional genius powerfully reasserted itself (Rollwork ). Among the most important Renaissance buildings in the Netherlands are the Salm Inn at Malines ( p . 134) and the old Maison de l'Ancien Greffe at Bruges (p . 23) . The Town Halls of the Hague, Leyden , and Amsterdam , theold Fleshers' Hall at Haarlem (p . 286) , and the Weigh - House at Nymegen ( p. 371 ) belong to the later period. The Netherlands are peculiarly rich in decorative works in wood , stone, and brass. The monuments of Count Engelbert of Nassau and his wife, in the Groote Kerk at Breda, and that of Archbishop William of Croy, in the church of the Capucins at Enghien (p . 70) , are among the finest productions of Renaissance art in the north of Europe. The chimney -pieces (Bruges), carved stalls (Dordrecht) , and altars ( Hal) must also not be forgotten . The Musée Plantin at Antwerp contains an interesting collection of Renaissance furniture. The Flemish Painters of the Renaissance produce a less favour able impression . The Italian forms and even colours found no response in the inmost spirit of the Flemish painters, and the result is often mere frigid prettiness or artificial idealisation . Just as we prefer the popular ballad to the Latin verse of our school days , so we prize the unadorned Flemish style more highly than unsuccessful imitations of the Italian . The 16th century was , it is true, of a different way of thinking, and hailed this inroad of the Renaissance upon their native art as a sign of progression ! Antwerp especially was for a long time the capital of art in the Netherlands, whence Duke William of Bavaria, as well as the Emperor Rudolph II . , the two most enlightened patrons of art among German princes , supplied their requirements; while Flemings, too , provided for England's needs. It is evident, then , that the Netherlands had no lack of renown nor yet of highly - gifted spirits , whose achievements, had a more auspicious fate attended them , would have been considerable. xliv HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART The earlier pictures of Jan Gossaert, surnamed Van Mabeuge or Mabuse ( flourished 1503-32 ), please by force of their masterly modelling and intense colouring. Bernard van Orley ( 1471-1541) turned his resi dence in Rome to good account in mastering the style of the Raphael esque school, which both in composition and drawing he reproduced with considerable cleverness. If we can praise the industry only of Michael van Coxie or Coxcyen ( 1499-1592) , and find the insipidity in conception and the exaggeration of form in the work of Frans de Vriendt, surnamed Floris (1520-70) , simply repulsive ; if, again , Karel van Mander is famous principally for his literary acquire ments, and Hubert Goltzius for his versatility, still one branch of the art remains in which the Flemings achieved and sustained a marked success , viz. PORTRAITURE, represented in the 16th century by Jan van Scorel or Schooreel (1495-1562), Ant. Moor (1518 1588) , the elder Peter Pourbus ( 1540-1580 ), and Geldorp . The earliest approaches to genre and landscape painting which later at tained to such majestic proportions must not be allowed to escape observation . Their germs are, in fact, already to be detected in the works of Van Eyck. The principle of a careful study of Nature, and delight in every phase of life, early asserted itself, giving to every object, however insignificant, however obscure , an artistic charm . The painting of still life , the pourtraying of those humorous incidents, never wanting in domestic experience, which served to illustrate every day life among the people, came early into vogue, though at first dis agreeably qualified by the intermixture of the grotesque ( in the shape of Devils' dances ). Old Brueghel ( see below) and Vinck - Boons had already painted rustic subjects, Patinir of Dinant and Paul Bril land scapes , with richness of effect, and Roelant Savery animal pictures . Among all these painters , the members of the family of Brueghel or, as sometimes written, Breughel, attract our interest most effectually. They not only afford the most striking example of that highly propitious practice, the hereditary prosecution of the same craft, but also excellently illustrate the transition from the old to the new style of art. Peter Brueghel the elder, or ‘ Peasant Brueghel (about 1525-69), the earliest representative of this race of paint ers , travelled in Italy for the purpose of studying art, but re mained faithful to the subjects and treatment of his native land . His figures are of a purely Flemish type , while his delicate colour ing is content to reveal the study of nature in northern climes alone. Of his two sons Peter or ' Hell- fire' Brueghel (1565-1637) and Jan or ‘ Velvet Brueghel ( 1568-1678 ), the latter, who acquir ed his surname from his partiality for wearing velvet, is the more important. He acquired eminence not only in paying homage to the widely -extended national taste for flower - pieces, but also by his landscapes, which are distinguished for the tender bluish tone of their middle distance and background (not, however, always rue to nature ), and for the marvellous finish of detail in the small IN THE NETHERLANDS. xlv > figures occupying the foreground . The sons of the two brothers bore the same Christian names as their fathers, followed the same pro fession , and perpetuated the manner of the Brueghels down to the close of the 17th century . All previous attainments, however, sink into insignificance beside the extraordinary capacity displayed by the Flemish artists of the 17th century. The eighty years' revolt of the Dutch against Spanish oppres sion was at an end . Though bleeding from a thousand wounds, the youthful Republic had triumphantly maintained itself , and con quered for itself virtualrecognition . Two worlds separate and distinct from one another were here compressed into their narrow confines. In the still Spanish Netherlands , forming the Southern division, the old régime in politics as in faith remained intact ; in the States General of Holland, not only was a new form of government estab lished, but new political and economical views , and a new form of faith, were in the ascendant. Both these worlds find in contemporary art a clearly - defined expression . The art of Peter Paul Rubens serves to glorify the ancient régime and the ancient faith , and was by this means in effect assimilated to the art of Italy, and beguiled by the mythological ideal. Dutch art , on the other hand , grew out of the new life and the new faith, and thus reflects the provincialism and civic pretensions which now became the characteristic features of the body politic. Here the schools of Haarlem, the Hague, Leyden , Delft, and Amsterdam , possess equal merit. Historical pictures are superseded by portrait groups of the civic functionaries and rulers ; the veil of mystery is withdrawn from the representation of sacred subjects, and , in its place, a bare matter - of- fact and modernised treat ment is introduced , in conformity with the Protestant views of the 16th and 17th centuries, which regarded the Bible in a very different light from the old Church. An historical notice of the condition of national culture would not in itself serve to throw much light on the relations of Flemish and Dutch painting of the 17th century , but is , notwithstanding , not altogether superfluous. Such a study would be the means of putting in its true light, the contrast , so often overlooked , between Rubens and the Dutchmen . Irrespective of much superficial resemblance (e . g . a similar tone of colour ), the two styles have entirely different sources and aims ; and while in the school of Rubens the old notions, old practices, disappeared , that art began to reveal itself in Holland which to this day is re ceived with unqualified approbation . In the study of Rubens , the mind must frequently be guided by reference to bistory ; the Dutch, on the other hand, we hail as bone of our bone, and flesh of our flesh . Rubens. For centuries Cologne and Antwerp have contended for the hon our of having given birth to the greatest of Belgian painters. Lat torly, however, their claims have been surrendered in favour of the xlvi HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART > 2 little town of Siegen , formerly in Nassau. Our artist's father , the Antwerp justice Johannes Rubens, being suspected of a leaning to wards the Reformation , sought refuge in flight from the Spanish Inquisition , and joined the party of William of Orange. Arrived at the Rhine , wbere the emigrants assembled , he formed an inti macy with Anna of Saxony, the crazy, sensuous wife ofWilliam , of such a nature as furnished the Prince with sufficient grounds for a divorce. The guilty lover was consigned in 1571 to the fortress Dillenburg. His wife, Marie Pypeling , who had followed him into exile , was induced by the severity of his punishment to forgive the offender the disgrace he had brought upon her , and to join him at Siegen , the place assigned to him in 1573 as his abode. Here accordingly , on 29th June, 1577 , on SS . Peter and Paul's day, Peter Paul Rubens was born . In the following year, John Rubens received permission to remove to Cologne. It is con ceivable that his lot should have damped his ardour for service with the Princes of Orange, and encouraged a desire to be reconciled to the Spanish government. John Rubens, however , died pending the negotiations which ensued, but his wife finally made her peace with the Spanish ecclesiastical authorities, returned in 1588 to Ant werp , and as a pledge for the genuineness of her conversion placed her son in a Jesuit school. In the character of the man , however, there was nothing jesuitical; but in the sensuous splendour of his religious pictures, in the accessories of his classical representations, which however brilliant are often superficial , it is easy to discern the effects of his training in the then flourishing schools of the all powerful Jesuits. He received instruction in painting from Adam van Noort, a thorough master of his art as we are assured , though no authenticated works of his are preserved , and from Otho van Veen , commonly called Otho Vaenius, court- painter to the Dukes of Parma, and an ar tist more distinguished for erudition than force of imagination. The Trinity and the Holy Family with the Parrot ( ' La Vierge au Perroquet) in Antwerp Museum are reckoned among the first of Rubens's works. If this be really the case the painter must have developed some of his peculiar characteristics at a surprisingly early period , and to a great extent have acquired his style before his sojourn in Italy. In the year 1600, Rubens undertook, accord ing to the then prevailing custom with artists , who looked upon Italy as the high school of art, a journey to the South . The follow ing year we find him in the service of Duke Vincenzo Gonzaga , in his time the most pleasure -loving, most enthusiastic connoisseur of all princes. Rubens was sent in 1603 to Spain, as bearer of costly gifts, in the shape more particularly of numerous pictures, to the court of King Philip III . On his return he took up his abode suc cessively in Mantua, Rome , and Genoa, until the year 1608, when he returned home, > IN THE NETHERLANDS. xlvii 7 Now what did Rubens bear away as the fruits of his eight years' residence in Italy ? It is of no great moment that several of his pictures savour of Italian prototypes ; in bis celebrated Descent from the Cross, we see a reflection of Daniele da Volterra's picture, in the Baptism of Christ (lost), of which the original drawing is pre served , he produces single figures from Michael Angelo's battle cartoon ; the Communion of St. Francis recalls a composition of Annibale Carracci ; while a work of Titian served as model for the battle of the Amazons. It is of greater importance that Rubens was fortified by his Italian experiences in his resolution to rely mainly on ideas engendered by the study of mythological -historical subjects for his inspiration , and to devote his art to their illustration . By this means he establishes a bond of union between the art of Italy and that of the North, without in any wise sacrificing his individual ity . Rather does a comparison with contemporary Italian painters show how far he surpassed them in virtue of his spontaneous sym pathies and the abounding force of his character. Rubens, married in 1609 to Isabella Brandt, and again , after her death ( 1626 ), to Helena Fourment, in 1630, had settled in Antwerp , where he led an uncommonly active life. As he himself assures us, while in the service of the Regent Albrecht and his consort Isabella, he had one foot always in the stirrup, making repeated trips to London, Paris, and Madrid, and devoting as much of his time to politics as to art . Certainly the varied occupations of his life are not to be discovered in the astounding number of his works. Nearly a thousand pictures, many of them of colossal dimensions, bear his name. This amazing fertility may be explained by the circumstance that the numerous pupils who frequented his workshop were em ployed upon his pictures , and that he himself possessed wonderful rapidity of execution . It is not an easy matter to render justice to Rubens in all cases, partly because so many works have been attri buted to him with which he had very little to do, partly, also , be cause his rendering of form frequently took directions repugnant to our modern notions. Perhaps in his manner of treating the female form only he can be charged with flagrant want of taste. The ca pacity of depicting the unsullied purity of maiden beauty is one of the attributes in an artist we most prize, while , on the other hand, we naturally recoil from the spectacle of naked females disfigured by the labours of maternity. Nevertheless, we must not forget that in these coarse unwieldy shapes, in the ponderous limbs and violent action of these female forms so constantly recurring in Rubens' pic tures, we behold the direct manifestation of such impassioned energies and irrepressible vitality as the master seeks to embody. Rubens' earlier pictures have this marked superiority over his later works, that with all their depth and warmth of colouring, they preserve a certain unity, and exhibit a broad but careful finish. The most important of the works executed soon after his return from xlviii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART Italy is unhappily no longer in the possession of his native land , but rests in the Belvedere collection at Vienna. The central portion represents St. Ildephons receiving a rich chasuble from the Virgin ; on the wings are portraits of the donors, and on the outside the Rest on the Flight into Egypt, or the Virgin under the apple-tree. The painter is here seen at the apex of his artistic excellence, and never subsequently produced so perfect a work in so lofty a style. So long as Italian models were fresh in his mind his imagination and his sense of form were chastened and refined, but at a later period they were not unfrequently somewhat too exuberant. Of similar beauty is the Doubting Thomas in the Museum at Antwerp, with the two accompanying portraits of Burgomaster Rockox and his wife. The celebrated Descent from the Cross in the Cathedral and the Crucifixion in the Museum ( 'Le Coup de Lance' ) are also of the highest value as undoubtedly works of the artist's own hand. In his later large ecclesiastical paintings Rubens availed him self to a large extent of the assistance of his pupils ; so that a less exalted idea of the master than he deserves may be derived from the study of these pictures. Another circumstance may help to lead the traveller in the Netherlands to a similar conclusion . Owing to the wide- spread renown of the artist, his works did not all remain at home , but found their way, even in his lifetime , far and wide, England, Madrid, Paris, Munich, Vienna, and St. Petersburgh con tain , in their respective galleries, many of Rubens' choicest works. The Antwerp Museum , however, preserves a whole series of valuable pictures by the master , thus affording an opportunity of studying him on the spot where he achieved greatness . Though , however , it may not be possible to find unalloyed satisfaction in separate works of the master, no one can deny that Rubens is a figure of great historical importance. This is owing to the fidelity, with which he has adhered to the traditions of the national art, to the power, with which he has harmonised these traditions with an altered condition of art and life, and to the uni versality which rendered him capable of working in every depart ment and of making the age subservient to his purposes . He is master of the whole range of artistic material. Tothe greatest fer tility in the domains of ecclesiastical art he adds an intelligent and enthusiastic appreciation of the ancient gods and heroes. He looks upon these latter more with the eye of a Virgil than of a Homer, and often depicts them in the spirit of an orator rather than in that of a poet . He shows that he has most affinity for the fleshy figures of the Bacchic myths, and paints them with a freshness and energy possessed by none of his contemporaries. His brush is as much at home in important historical compositions as in the richly - coloured allegories , by which his age tried to make up to itself for the want of genuine poetic sensibility. He paints alike portraits and land scapes , the battles of men and the fighting of brutes, the gallant IN THE NETHERLANDS. xlix > love- making of the noble and the coarse pleasures of the vulgar, This versatility is peculiarly his own , although he possesses cer tain characteristics in common with his contemporaries , just as he shares with them the same national atmosphere and the same tra ditionary precepts. Rubens occupied this field along with several other painters. No wonder, then , that similar characteristics are observable in his works and those of others , and that they so closely resemble one another as occasionally to be confounded . Abraham Janssens ( 1587 1631) comes very near to Rubens in freedom of brush and in the impassioned action of his figures. Indeed there were few of Rubens' contemporaries who escaped his influence, pervading as it did the whole field of art, inspiring in an especial manner the engraver. The most notable of Antwerp artists who were contempo raries of Rubensare Gerard Seghers ( 1591-1651) , Theodore Rom bouts ( 1597-1637) , Gaspar de Crayer (1582-1669) , who evinced in his quiet compositions a charming vein of thought, and Lucas van Uden (1595-1662) , who painted in many instances the land scape in the background of Rubens' pictures , as well as Frans Snyders (1597-1657) , who placed his extraordinary talent for ani mal painting at the disposal of the great chief. Of Rubens's most distinguished disciple, ANTHONY Van DYCK (born at Antwerp 1599 , died in London 1641 ) , owing to the shortness of his sojourn in his native city , few important works are retained . After being initiated in painting first by Henry van Balen , later by Rubens, he visited Italy in his 24th year, where Genoa especially fascinated him , as it had done his master before him. From 1626 to 1632 he lived at Antwerp , after that in London , in the service of Charles I. It was not only the fashion then prevailing in aristocratic circles which engaged Van Dyck in portraiture. Portraiture made the strongest appeal to his proclivities as an artist. He does not shine in the invention of gorgeous or stirring scenes ; but in the refined and animated pour trayal of distinguished personages in particular , there are few who are his peers . His portraits are not only instinct with life : they fascinate by their dignity of conception and grace of delineation, which, without sacrifice of truthfulness, impart a certain stateliness as well as beauty to the individual represented. In what a rare degree Van Dyck possessed this faculty is best seen in his admirable etchings which are still preserved , and in which he presents us with an invaluable gallery of portraits illustrative of the 17th century . Of the remaining pupils of Rubens , few acquired distinction ; but, owing to the copiousness of their works , they are by no means unimportant. They occupy in the department of religious art the entire century . From Diepenbeeck , Erasmus Quellinus, and Cornelis Schut, JACOB JORDAENS (1593-1673) may be distinguished by a marked individuality. No study in Italy had estranged his thoughts from his BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. a 1 HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART native art. His profession of the reformed faith made him unwilling to contribute to the exaltation of the Church's ideal, so he applied himself to depicting scenes from domestic life and the unrestrained mirth of popular festivities , and thus prepared the way for the for mation of that school of genre painting , in which the art of the Netherlands subsequently acquired its chief renown. His often repeated pictures of the crazy house -concert ( “ as the old ones sang, so will the youngsters twitter'), for example, are well known. Jor daens's humour is unsophisticated ; his figures are as devoid of grace, as they well can be ; but so surpassing is the quality of colour in his pictures that one must condone the vein of almost coarse vulgarity which runs through very many of them. Pictures by him at the Bosch , near the Hague, which celebrate the deeds of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange , show what he could accomplish as an historical painter, and belong to the very best contributions of the entire school. Among the less-known though by no means unimportant pupils of Rubens is Jan van den Hoecke (1598-1651 ) , who in delineat ing scenes of quiet feeling runs his master very hard and, indeed , is not unfrequently mistaken for him. Even upon David TENIERS ( 1610-1685) , the greatest genre painter to whom the southern Netherlands have given birth, Rubens exercised an enduring influence. The fairs and rustic scenes which he delighted in depicting , fascinate not only by the spirit of con viviality which animates them, but bear witness to a searching ob servation of nature ; and the subtlety of colouring serves of itself to invest the scenes depicted with a true poetic charm . In gradation of tone, in wondrous harmony of colour, in artistic combination, he retains an undisputed supremacy . It is not less wonderful how he can by the most delicate modifications so manipulate a dominant tone of colour as to make it effective , and how he can at his pleasure either assert or dispense with the most marked contrasts. The pictures of his fortieth year , where the peculiar silvery tone first appears , are those which afford the best insight into this painter's method and style. His works are unfortunately widely scattered , and are rarely to be met with in his native country. The same may be said of the majority of genre painters of the southern Netherlands. The neighbourhood of France lured away, if not the painters themselves, certainly many of their works ; nor were either wealth or love of art at this time sufficiently diffused in Bel gium to allow of the creations of native art being retained in the land . In this respect painting was more advantageously circum stanced in Holland . There it was unmistakably associated with the people, and to this day indeed is identified with their habits and predilections. The greater number as well as the best of its pro ductions are still retained in Holland , coveted though they be by the lovers of art from every quarter , who at last have learned to itimate them at their true value . IN THE NETHERLANDS. li Rembrandt. The grandeur of the 17th century school of Dutch painters has partially obscured the excellencies of their predecessors, and thrown into the shade what was of sterling value in the Dutch school be fore Rembrandt's time. It is only in recent times that research has succeeded in bringing to light the earlier history of Dutch painting, and has surrounded Rembrandt, who hitherto had dazzled as the flash of a meteor in the horizon, with precursors and associates. Art flourished in the Dutch towns as early as the 15th century , but it would be more than difficult to separate it from the con temporaneous art of Flanders ; indeed, owing to the similarity of the two peoples, no very essential difference could have existed . When, accordingly, at the beginning of the 16th century , painting in the North became Italianised, the Dutch painters succumbed to the prevailing influence . It must be noted , however , that the parti cular manner which most nearly responded to the national taste was generally preferred , and most successfully imitated ; that of Caravaggio, for example,distinctly coarse as it is in its broad realism . After Karel van Mander, Heemskerck, and Bloemaert, exponents of a more imaginative treatment, came Honthorst ( Gherardo della Notte) and his associates , whose art was entirely based upon this realism . These painters fearlessly grapple with nature ; they con cern themselves little about grace and beauty ; they do not despise what is vulgar and repulsive, if only it supplies life and energy. Lamp-light, abounding as it does in glaring contrast , served ad mirably to enforce startling effects and an impassioned exuberance of expression often bordering upon distortion, and was freely resorted to with evident relish . Along with Caravaggio , another artist had considerable influence upon the Dutchmen, viz. Adam Elshaimer (1578-1620) , of Frankfort, who , however, lived and died in Rome. He painted as if nature were only to be seen through a ca mera obscura ; but his pictures are harmonised by the utmost mi nuteness and indescribable delicacy of finish , and receive their compensating breadth from a masterly management of colour. Last man, Poelenburg, Goudt, etc., learned from him . In the desperate struggle during the 16th century with the two fold yoke of Spain , artistic enterprise in the Netherlands was ne cessarily crippled. It is principally owing to this circumstance that so many Dutch painters found their way to Italy , and there com pleted the training which their native land , sorely distracted as it was, could not afford them. But just as the Netherlands finally came forth from their eighty years' struggle as glorious victors, and in corresponding measure secured forthemselves wealth and politi cal power, while their antagonist, Spain, once mistress of the world, but now hopelessly impoverished, subsided into political insigni ficance, Dutch Art received during and at the conclusion of the war its noblest impulse. It was now that the painters of the Netherlands d * lii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART 2 7 were enabled correctly to discern what, amidst all the surrounding wealth of material, was best suited to their needs, and what form most strongly appealed to them ; they created, in a word , a national art . The war had made a nation of heroes. Stern necessity had steeled their courage and quickened their sense. Brave men, experienced in war as well as state affairs, pious of heart , yet joyous withal, met the eye at every turn . To pourtray these , not only as single and im pressive personalities, but assembled in groups , in the council chamber, or sallying forth to the tilting ground , or engaged in festive celebrations, was the artist's favorite task . Pictures of a peaceful, happy life , the charms of existence amidst privacy and comfort , were doubly attractive in a time so heavily charged with fateful events. The pleasurable abandonment too , which , taking no thought for the morrow , is content to enjoy the passing hour, captivated the imagination and furnished material for numerous paintings. But the victorious Netherlanders not only created for themselves a new field of pictorial matter, in which national sentiment should find expression ; the appropriate form of expression was also provided . Though nearly all the Dutch painters are great colourists, some indispensable attributes of the artistic faculty are wholly wanting in them . The single figures lack ideal grace , the groups do not conform to the rules of perspective. On the other hand, they know how to impart such an artistic charm by means of colour alone, as effectually compensates for these defects . The use of the word “ compensate', however, may mislead. It must not be inferred that any particular means of expression can singly avail in painting. The Italians are guided by established laws in the disposal of individual figures, as well as in composition , and rightly so ; for these laws were the product of their particular cul ture and habits of mind. With equal right , however, the Dutch painters framed for themselves rules for the guidance of their art in harmony with national views and sentiments . It must not be supposed that these Dutchmen , after they had carefully completed the drawing of a picture, were content to overlay their pictures with colour for the sake of mere beauty of effect. They thought, they felt in colour , and composed in colour. The delicate gradation of colour, the disposal of light and shade in the mass, and chiaroscuro, are their natural means of expression . It is a matter of common observation that colour beautifies many an object which without it would be utterly insignificant, and to such objects the Dutch artists knew how to impart an ideal charm by the modulation of colour Household furniture , for example, was highly valued by the Dutchmen . In its carefully - ordered splendour and subdued brightness were reflected the delights of peaceful domestic life. Applied to art-purposes , it transcended meaner objects only in so far as it was richer in colours than they : and thus it was with cenes from every- day life , which were in like manner idealised tone. IN THE NETHERLANDS. liii 7 by this mysterious witchery of colouring. It is impossible to convey in mere words any adequate idea of the effect of colour thus wielded . The eye alone can comprehend it , and has its opportunity in the study of the various galleries of Holland . The ' Regent' and ' Doelen' pictures are among the most conspicuous creations of the Dutch school of painters. It was the custom for the presidents (Regents) of the various corporations , public and charitable institutions, to place in the guild -halls and shooting galleries ( Doelen ) portraits in groups of members of the various guilds , especially of the shooting societies . Among the earliest pictures of this kind are the Commemoration Banquet of Bowmen , painted by Cornelis Anthonissen , in Amsterdam ( 1533 ), another from the same hand dated 1557, and one by Dirck Jacobsz painted in 1529 ( the last two in the Ryks Museum ); but it was later than this that the ' Regent-pieces' acquired their complete artistic signifi cance . The Haarlem Museum possesses a ‘Corporation -picture' by Cornelis Corneliszoon , dating from 1583, and four similar pieces by Frans Pieterszoon Grebber , the later of which are specially distinguished by the freshness of their colouring. In the hospital of Delft is a 'Regent-piece by that prolific portrait-painter Michael van Mierevelt (born in Delft, 1568; died 1651) , who has been erroneously described as painter to William of Orange (assassinated 1584) . It is a so-called anatomical lecture, in the painting of which Mierevelt's son , Peter, took part. Jacob Gerritsz Cuypt, founder of the painters' guild in Dordrecht , and Paul Moreelse, a pupil of Mjerevelt , do not appear to have attempted the execution of the ‘Regent pictures proper ; the greater is the number thereof to be ascribed to Thomas ( Theodore) de Keyser and Jan van Ravesteyn . Thomas de Keyser was born probably in 1595. He was the son of an architect of Amsterdam, Hendrik de Keyser, and began to paint in 1619. His masterpieces are preserved in the Ryks Museum in Amsterdam , and the gallery of the Hague. In the town - hall of the Hague, too, his contemporary, Jan van Ravesteyn can best be stud ied, in his fine corporation-pieces of 1616-18. But the treatment of the ' Regent' pictures and portrait groups generally was brought to its highest perfection first by Frans Hals, of Haarlem ( p. Iviii ), and more especially by that greatest of all the painters of the north, Rem brandt. Among the most important portrait- painters of Amsterdam in the pre-Rembrandt period are Dirck Barentsz ( 1534-92), a pupil of Titian ; Cornelis Ketel (1548-1616); Aert Pietersen ( 1550-1612; son of Pieter Aertsen ) , of whose works the Ryks Museum possesses large examples dating from 1599 and 1603 ; Cornelis van der Voort ( 1576-1624), highly thought of by his contemporaries ; Werner van + The termination ( szen' or ' szoon' , abbreviated ' sz' , which occurs so frequently in Flemish names , signifies son ; thus Gerritsz = gon of Ger hard, Harmensz = son of IIarmen or erman . liv HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART Valckert, a pupil of Goltzius, who painted in 1612-30 at Haarlem and at Amsterdam ; and Nicolaes Elias ( 1590-1650) , master of Van der Helst, whose fine corporation - pieces are now seen to ad vantage in the Ryks Museum . Slandered and grossly abused as Rembrandt has been by dilet tanti scribes of the 18th century, the enthusiastic eulogium bestowed upon him by the youthful Goethe must be noticed as an ex ceptional tribute. It is only in quite recent times that the research es of Dutch savants , particularly of Scheltema, Vosmaert, De Roever, and Bredius , undertaken in a spirit of affectionate devotion, have vindicated the truth concerning him . Rembrandt Harmensz van Ryn , the son of a miller of Leyden , was born probably in 1607. That he first saw light in his father's mill is a story for which there is as little foundation as that he first studied art amongst his father's flour sacks. Jacob Swanenburgh , who had studied in Italy , and was married to a Neapolitan , and Peter Lastman were his first instructors. His earliest recognised work bears the date 1627 ; he removed to Amsterdam at the end of 1631. Amsterdam had gradually outstripp ed the other towns of the Republic , and had become virtually its capital, ascendant not only in the domain of politics, but prescribing also the direction to be given to the study of art . A new and stately architecture, which subsequently exercised extraordinary influence in Germany, testifies to the splendour of the town at that period . Vondel, Huygens, and Hooft represent the muse of Poetry , while numerous engravers and painters, of whom several connected them selves later with Rembrandt , such as S. Koninck , Livens , and Van Vliet, found employment in Amsterdam . Rembrandt very soon made himself famous as an artist ; fortune smiled upon him, too, in his love affairs. From the year 1633 the face of a good - tempered, handsome woman appears from time to time in his pictures . This is Saskia van Ulenburgh , the daughter of a Friesland lawyer, whom he brought home as his bride in 1634. The numerous portraits of Saskia , painted by the great artist with evi dent gusto, have familiarised us with her countenance ; the best are those in the galleries of Dresden and Cassel . That in the Antwerp Museum is either a copy, or was painted from memory. After Saskia's death ( 1642), Rembrandt's private affairs took a turn for the worse. The great financial collapse, which since 1653 had continued in Amsterdam, bringing wide-spread and ruinous disaster upon the community , did not suffer our painter to escape. He was declared bankrupt in 1656, and an inventory of his effects was taken by the Commissioners of the ' desolate-boedelkamer' , who brought them to the hammer in the following year. This inventory is still preserved , and is an all - sufficient reply to those who maintained that Rem brandt was destitute of refined tastes . The walls of his spacious + Rembrandt, sa vie et ses æuvres , par C. Vosmaer. 2nd ed. The gue, 1877. IN THE NETHERLANDS . Iv apartments were covered not only with works from his own and his pupils' hands, but such Italian masters as Palma, Giorgione, ete . , were likewise represented. He also possessed numerous antique busts and miscellaneous curiosities , as well as a choice collection of engravings. Besides all this, the confidential intercourse which he maintained with Huygens and Jan Six sufficiently belies the opinion once current as to Rembrandt's low- lived habits . Rembrandt did not marry a second time, but contented himself henceforth with the faithful affection and ministrations of his servant Hendrickje Stoffels (d. 1661). The close of his life found him poor and living in complete retirement ; still busy notwithstanding, and still cap able of laughter , as a portrait of himself from his own hand ( painted about 1668) , and now in a private collection in Paris, gives evidence. He was buried on 8th October , 1669 . In Rembrandt's career as a painter we notice an uninterrupted and brilliant process of development. It is true that even his carly works show his fondness for effects produced by strong and full light thrown upon the principal figures, but it is not till after sev eral years residence in Amsterdam that his pictures are suffused with that rich golden brown tone which invests his masterpieces with their subtle and peculiar charm . About 1654 his pictures re ceive a still warmer and more subdued tone , and are brown even to dimness, but retain, nevertheless, an unfaltering breadth in exe cution . These several methods of Rembrandt are admirably il lustrated in his masterpieces exhibited in the various galleries of Holland . The 'Regent' picture in the Hague Collection , known as The Anatomical Lecture' , which contains portraits of Professor Nicholas Tulp , and the members of the Surgeons' guild, belongs to the year 1632. This picture is an excellent example of the master's art, which has enabled him to animate a momentary action of this portrait group with dramatic life , by force of a concentrated expres sion and accentuation of tone. The Night Watch ', preserved in the museum at Amsterdam, Rembrandt's greatest work , was painted ten years later. It bears the date 1642 , and shows with what skill this master of chiaroscuro could , by its means, convert a prosaic occur rence , such as that of this band of citizen musketeers sallying forth from their guild-house, into a scene abounding in poetical expression , and exciting the liveliest emotions in the beholder . In the so -called Staalmeesters' picture, portraits of the syndics of the Clothmakers' guild in Amsterdam (belonging to the year 1661 ), the entire tone seems to be permeated by a golden -brown medium . Art has never again created a greater wealth of stirring imagery or poetry of colour so entrancing as these three pictures reveal to us . Unconsciously our thoughts recur to Shakespeare's familiar creations, and we re cognise in these two mighty art- champions of the north kindred natures and a corresponding bent of fancy. It must not, however , be assumed that Rembrandt confined Ivi HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART 2 himself to the representation of 'Regent pieces, portrait groups (as the ' Jewish Bride' in the Van der Hoop Collection in Amsterdam ), and single portraits ( e.g. Jan Six and Anna Six , in the collection of J. P. Six in Amsterdam) . We possess many scriptural pictures by him , scenes from the New as well as Old Testament, for the most part scattered in other countries. The Hague, however, possesses examples of this class of pictures in " Susanna at the bath ', and 'Simeon in the Temple' (bearing the date 1631 ) . Here, too , Rem brandt preserves a mode of treatment peculiarly his own . In re presentations of our Saviour's passion the tragic event is pourtrayed in a harsh matter - of- fact spirit , and might serve to illustrate the well-known hymn, ' O Head once full of bruises'. A serener, happier expression of solemnity prevails in the Parables , which enables us fully to realise their significance , often sufficiently obscure. Scenes from the youthful life of Christ have an idyllic charm of their own , and in all Rembrandt's religious compositions the en deavour is apparent to bring them within the range of human apprehension a fact important for a right understanding of the Protestantism of the 17th century. Rembrandt touched also the re gions of Mythology ( as is proved by the painting No. 1251 in the Ryks Museum , p. 327, the true meaning of which has been only lately explained) ; but, as will be readily understood , with more doubt ful success . On the other hand his landscapes, devoid of incident though they be, wide, unbroken , plain , exhibit the master's feeling for colour and poetical expression in the most favourable light. It need hardly be mentioned that in order to become intimately, and as it were personally acquainted with Rembrandt, the collection of his etchings, over 300 in number, must be carefully studied . Among the best- known , the rarest and most beautiful, are 'Rem brandt's portrait with the Sword' , ' Lazarus Rising from the Dead ' , the ‘Hundred Florin Plate' ( ' Healing of the Sick’ ; the former name, by which it was popularly known in the 18th century, now no longer applies, inasmuch as in 1867 the sum of 10001. was paid for a single impression ), Annunciation ', ' Ecce Homo' , ' The good Samaritan ', “ The great Descent from the Cross' , the portraits of Tolling, Bonus, Six , the landscape with the mill , and that with the three trees. A goodly array of pupils and imitators are gathered around Rem brandt. His influence was not confined to Amsterdam alone, but ex tended to the neighbouring schools , that of Haarlem , for example. Amongst his more immediate followers may be mentioned Ger brand van den Eeckhout ( 1621-74 ), whose works frequently bear Rembrandt's name ( the Museum of Amsterdam possesses one of the best of his pictures - The Adulteress ), and Ferdinand Bol of Dordrecht ( 1609-81 ), who deserted his native style after the death of his master. The ' Regent' picture, formerly in the Lepers' Hospital, and now in the new Ryks Museum , at Amsterdam , be longs to his best time. IN THE NETHERLANDS . lvii Govert Flinck, of Cleves ( 1615-60), may be said almost to have rivalled Rembrandt at the outset of his career. Besides his two best ‘ Regent pieces (dated 1642 and 1648) , there is in the Museum of Amsterdam a scriptural picture by him . It represents Isaac in the act of blessing Jacob , a favourite subject with the school of Rem brandt . Amongst the number of Rembrandt's satellites are also Jan Livens and Jan Fictoor or Victors, a name by which several artists are known ; Ph. Koninck, the landscape painter; Salomon Koninck , whose scriptural pictures and portraits bear so strong a superficial resemblance to those of Rembrandt that they are often mistaken for his ; Jacob Backer (1609-51 ), intimately associated in his youth with Govert Flinck, and his companion in Rembrandt's workshop ; Nicholas Maes, of Dordrecht, whose best works belong to the time of his youth (1650-60) , as, having in after - life settled in Antwerp, he seriously deteriorated under the influences of the school of Rubens ; Karel Fabritius, who came to a premature end by a pow der explosion in Delft ( 1654 ); and Bernard Fabritius. Another of the most eminent contemporaries of Rembrandt was Jan Vermeer (1632-75), of Delft, who pursued a course of great independence and seems to have been influenced by no other master except , to a slight extent, Karel Fabritius. Young women engaged in all kinds of household work, or in the more congenial occupation of love-making, interiors, street scenes , and landscapes, are his favourite subjects, all wondrously pure in colour, abounding in de lightful effects of perspective, full oflife, at once truthfuland charm ing, entitling them to rank amongst the gems of Dutch art. Even in his lifetime, and indeed down to the present century, his style has been frequently and successfully imitated . Scarcely inferior to Vermeer of Delft, and frequently con founded with him, is Peter de Hooch, celebrated for his fascinat ing effects of light in his interiors . And last , but not least, of this artist array who , whether as pupils or followers, are as sociated with Rembrandt, comes Gerard Dou (born at Leyden 1613 ; died 1680) , the great master of minuteness of finish , whose ‘Night Schools' , ' Maidens by candle light, and ' Hermits' are in so much favour with the public , commanding prices commensurate with the admiration bestowed upon them , though it must be said of his works that skilful and delicate manipulation takes the place of poet ical expression, and that the range of his fancy is contracted in measure corresponding with his painstaking elaboration of finish . This latter quality, however, must receive its due meed of praise . On the other hand , Dou is connected with a number of painters of declining excellence , such as Frans van Mieris the Elder, of Ley den (1635-81 ), Pieter van Slingeland, of Leyden (1640-91 ), God frey Schalcken ( born at Dort, 1643; died at the Hague, 1706 ), A. van Gaesbeeck, Abraham de Pape ( d . 1666), and many others. It will be seen , then , that Rembrandt's influence was as weighty > 2 Iviii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART and comprehensive as the products of his easel were great in number and surpassing in quality. Painters of the most widely differing motives acknowledge him as their master and example, and he has led the way, not only in historical and portrait painting, but in landscape too , and in the so - called genre painting. In this respect BARTHOLOMEW VAN DER Helst, to whom many would assign a place amongst the foremost realists next to Rembrandt, cannot com pare with him . Van der Helst was born at Haarlem in 1611 or 1612, and ended his days there in 1670, in the enjoyment of great wealth and general esteem. Nothing is known of his teachers, nothing of his relations with Rembrandt, whose path he appears to be continually crossing without compromising his independence . He was the favour ite portrait-painter of the wealthy burghers ofAmsterdam ,and confined himselfalmost entirely to the painting of Regent' pieces and portraits . His most celebrated work, the Arquebusiers' Banquet ( 1648 ), is in the Museum of Amsterdam (which also possesses the Arquebusiers' Guild of 1639, and the ' Doelenstuk' of 1657), and when compared with Rembrandt's 'Night Watch' , admirably illustrates the points of difference between the two masters. Van der Helst presents to us Nature as she is , unrelieved , a bare reality. If Nature herself could paint she would have given us a picture such as Van der Helst's . It is otherwise with Rembrandt. Upon all his works he sets the seal of his individuality. As the reality presents itself to his eye, so he reproduces it with just that degree of truthfulness which his intention prescribes . Van der Helst's are mere imitations, illusive in their fidelity , but leaving no enduring impression. Frans Hals, of Haarlem , a somewhat earlier painter, so far at least as the effects of his training in the great Master's school are con cerned , is more akin to him than Van der Helst. Though of Haarlem parentage, he was born at Antwerp (about 1584) . When he returned to llaarlem is not known. He married in 1610, unhappily as the event proved, for in 1616 he was brought before the Burgomaster for ill -treat ing his wife , and had to promise to abstain for the future from 'dronkenschappe'. Of the joys of conviviality which he could so well depict he freely partook , and thus got into difficulties which his prolific pencil failed to avert . His goods and chattels were sold by auction in 1652 to pay his debts , and he became in his old age a pensioner of the State. His death took place in 1666 , at the age of 82, his labours having extended over half- a -century. The earliest of his paintings known to us bears the date 1616 , the Banquet of Officers of the George's Guild of Musketeers, in the Museum of Haar lem , where the most considerable of this master's Regent- pieces' are collected . Amongst these the Assembly of Officers of the An dreas Guild ( 1633 ), and Assembly of Officers of the George's Guild ( 1639 ), are the best. Rembrandt's intiuence is still apparent in pictures of the succeeding decade , without however impairing the individuality of the artist . The utmost vivacity of conception , IN THE NETHERLANDS. lix 1605 ; purity of colour, and breadth of execution, which in his latest works betrays a handling of the brush so uncompromising that drawing is almost lost in a maze of colour-tone , are distinguishing character istics of Frans Hals, who , besides the ‘Regent-pieces’ referred to, was the author of numerous portraits ; and he has immortalised such popular figures as the 'Rommelpott -players', ' The tipsy old wife, Hille Bobbe' , ' The jolly shoemaker, Jan Barentz ', ready either for a drinking bout or for service in the fleet with Admiral Tromp. His best known pupils are Adrian Brouwer ( b . at Oudenarde, d . at Antwerp , 1638 ), and Adrian van Ostade ( b . at Haarlem , 1610 , died there, 1685 ). As we do not possess more correct bio graphical data concerning the former of these , we must accept as true the stories told of him and his fellows by authors of the 18th century . He is his master's most formidable rival in the naïve conception of national character, as well as in mere technical skill ; and had he lived long enough to mature his natural powers, he must have borne away the palm now conceded to Adrian Ostade. In the earlier efforts of Adrian van Ostade, we are reminded of Brouwer ; it was after the year 1640 , or thereabouts , when the influence of Rembrandt was in the ascendant with him , that he first displayed those technical qualities and artistic predilections which have made him a favour ite with the most fastidious connoisseurs . Grace and beauty are attri butes which the forms crowded into his cottage-interiors or animating his court-yard scenes certainly do not possess ; but they alwaysabound in lusty life, characteristic and appropriate , whether playing cards , intent upon the enjoyment of pipe and glass , or dancing accompanied by the ever -present fiddler; and with such marvellous effect is colour accentuated , so complete is his mastery of chiaroscuro , that nearly every picture may be said to provide a new ' feast for the eye' . With Ostade are connected his brother, Isaac van Ostade ( 1620-49), Cornelis Bega ( 1620-64 ), and Cornelis Dusart (1660-1704 ). And thus we are brought to the almost innumerable throng of GENRE PAINTERS, who have imparted to Dutch art its peculiarly dis tinctive attributes , and have secured its greatest triumphs. It would be difficult to distinguish amongst the genre painters of Holland various degrees of excellence, inasmuch as each in his respective , and , as a rule, contracted sphere , has asserted an in disputable supremacy. It is unfortunate that the greater number of their works have been transferred to foreign galleries , and are rarely to be met with in Dutch collections, so that Holland is no longer exclusively the place where the genre and landscape-paint ers of the Netherlands can be studied. It must suffice , therefore, to mention the most conspicuous names. The genre painters are usually divided into several groups , ac cording to the subjects which they make peculiarly their own ; pic tures , for example , belong to the higher or lower genre as they set before us the more refined or coarser aspects of social life, the world lx HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART of fashion or the vulgar herd . These, however, are merely adventi tious distinctions , and do not by any means sufficiently account for this latest development of Dutch art, resolving itself as it did into a number of local schools . Dirk Hals ( probably a younger brother of Frans Hals, to whom many genre works by Dirk have been ascribed) , Anton Palamedesz, J. A. van Duck, Pieter Codde, and others, abound in pictures of soldiers and cavaliers contending with Venus and Bacchus , or engaged in the sterner encounter of pitched battle and skirmish ; in illustrations, too, of the fierce licence engendered by the wars of the 17th century ; figures roaming hither and thither without restraint, lusty and light-hearted . In striking contrast to such scenes as these are the pictures of a peaceful and refined domestic life, oc casionally disconcerted by the vicissitudes of love , which formed the favourite themeof Gerard Terburg, born at Zwolle in 1608 , a man who had travelled much and who died at Deventer in 1681. He, together with his successors, Gabriel Metsu, of Leyden and Amsterdam (b. 1630, d . after 1667 ), Caspar Netscher (b . at Heidelberg, 1639 ; died at the Hague, 1684) , etc., are generally known as 'stuff painters, owing to the attention they bestow upon drapery stuffs, especially silks and satins. It must be borne in mind, however, that in the absence of these external properties, thus carefully supplied , the refinements of life could not be invested with appropriate pictorial splendour. But that these painters were not the mere imitators of stuff and texture, that they were capable of emotion, and could give utterance to the sentiments of romance , will be sufficiently evident to those who study the ' Paternal Warning of Terburg in the Museum at Amsterdam . As a portrait- painter, too, Terburg has made a great reputation . (His " Peace Congress of Münster' , his most celebrated piece, was sold with the Demidoff collection for 182,000 fr . ) JAN STEEN , the so - called jolly landlord of Leyden ( 1626-79), who , however , painted also at the Hague and Haarlem , was likewise a painter of social subjects , but in a line and in a manner quite his own . That he was a low - lived tippler is simply one of those wholly gratuitous slanders with which it was once the fashion to besmirch the painters of Holland. A jovial life was probably not repugnant to his tastes ; and what is more to our purpose is the fact that a spontaneous joyousness pervades his works, and a sparkling sense of humour too ; while as a colourist he must be looked upon as the foremost of the entire school. His pictures might be enti tled comedies of life , in which man's follies are chastised with satire , and his weaknesses held up to ridicule, but without the glaring exaggeration and obtrusive moralising which make Hogarth's pictures ( with whom Jan Steen has much in common ) so unpleasant to look upon. Family feasts and merry -makings , the wedding of ill - assorted couples, quacks and their quackeries, lovelorn maidens ( hier baat geen medicijn , want het is minne pijn' ) , tavern brawls and similar scenes are his favourite subjects. Jan Steen has, and IN THE NETHERLANDS. lxi > > with justice, been likened to Molière. The greater number and the best of his works are in England. He is very partially represented in the museums of Amsterdam and the Hague. The Duc d'Aren berg possesses in his Brussels collection one of the very rare scrip tural pieces by this master, the ‘ Marriage at Cana’; another, ' Laban searching for his images' , is in the Museum at Leyden . Jan Steen is a solitary personage . He stands alone , and has no followers. So much the more numerous , and at the same time in timately associated , are the painters whose genius found employ ment in the domain of landscape , which they rendered with true artistic appreciation , and enriched as well as animated by the ad dition of living forms. Very frequently these landscapes with figures are the result of friendly co - operation . Thus Adrian van de Velde (1635–72), one of the most estimable as well as gifted of Dutch painters, supplied the figures for the landscapes of his master Wynants , for Moucheron , and even for Hobbema and Ruysdael. Philip Wouverman ( 1620-68) has perhaps the greatest repu tation for these figure pictures , of which some 800 may still be reckoned. Cavalry combats , hunting scenes , in which horses al ways play a conspicuous part, he has repeated with endless varia tions, without however passing the bounds of mediocrity . To enu merate the names of all who occupied this particular field is simply impracticable, for it is precisely in this field that Dutch art was most prolific. We must, however, mention ( as akin to the foregoing) Paul Potter (b . 1625 ;d. Amsterdam , 1654 ), chief of animal paint ers , to whose pictures landscape lends idyllic charms, and whom we must accept as a classical example of the entire fraternity . A con summate draughtsman , he was at least as eminent as a colourist, especially in his smaller pictures. Karel du Jardin ( 1625-78 ), an ex uberantly fertile painter, owes his best qualities to the foregoing, but the inequality of his works shows his inability to resist other less favourable influences . Other 'idyllic painters are Jan Asse lyn ( 1610-60) and Nicolas Berchem ( 1620-83), both of Amsterdam . As landscape- painters must be named Jan van Goyen of the Hague ( 1596-1656 ); Albert Cuyp of Dordrecht ( 1620-91 ) , son of Jacob Gerritsz (p .liii) , also eminentas a painter of portraits and animals ; Jan Wynants of Haarlem ( 1600-70 ), famous for the number of his pupils and his own steady development; Allart van Everdingen ( Alkmaar, 1621-75) ; Jacob Ruysdael (born 1625 , at Haarlem ; d . 1681) , 'excelling all other masters in a feeling for the poetry of northern landscape combined with the power of gra phic embodiment’ ; and Meindert Hobbema, whose merits have only recently come to be appreciated . Hobbema was born at Amsterdam, 1638, and died in 1709. His works exhibit a moderate talent only for composition ; the same motive constantly recurs in his pictures ( the figures are for the most part by another hand) ; but in delicacy and thoroughness of elaboration , more particularly in his treatment lxii HISTORICAL SKETCH OF ART. of atmosphere and light , his pictures must be highly prized as works of genius of the highest order. Jan van der Meer of Haarlem (1678-91) shows himself near of kin to Jacob Ruysdael. Numer ous other landscape painters remained true to their national sce nery , but in many cases they lapsed into a kind of mannerism , which is very apparent in the moonlight scenes of Aart van der Neer (of Amsterdam , 1603-77). The better pictures of the last named artist, such as his forest-landscape in the Van der Hoop collection, are , however, not inferior to those of Ruysdael and Hob bema, wh he also rese les in his death in poverty and ob scurity. Fashion also began to demand the study of Italian land scapes , and in the second half of the 17th cent . compositions of this kind are decidedly predominant. Among the earliest examples of this tendency are Jan Both of Utrecht ( c . 1610-50 ), Adam Pynacker (1621-73), and Herman Swanevelt (1620-59 ?) . It is well known how marine painting ( Willem van de Velde, the Younger , 1633-1707 ; Hendrik van Vliet, d . 1675 at Delft) , and architectural painting ( Jan van der Heyden , 1637-1712, and Ema nuel de Witte, 1607-92 ), prospered in Holland , and how the natio nal art, as it were with its last breath, gave birth to the so-called ' still - life' ( W. van Aelst of Delft) and flower painting ( Jan Davidsx de Heem , 1600-1674 , Utrecht and Amsterdam ; Rachel Ruysch, 1664-1750, Amsterdam ; Jan van Huysum , 1682-1749) . We conclude these slight observations with the wish that they may induce to a more searching study of Dutch art in a careful examination of the works themselves , and we recommend all who take an interest in the subject to read Burger's well known book on the ‘ Musées de la Hollande', in which Dutch painting is most exhaustively treated . 1 . From London to Ostend. There are two direct routes from London to Ostend : 1. Viả Dover , twice daily, in 61/2-8 hrs. ( fares 11. 10s. 3d. , 11. 2s. 3d. , 118. 90.) 2.; By Gen. Steam Nav. Co.'s steamers, once or twice weekly, in 10-12 hrs. The former route is recommended to those whose time is limited ; the latter is pleasant in fine weather , and considerably less expensive (chief cabin 158., fore cabin 108.). Comp. 11. Ostend. The Railway Station ( Pl. B, 4) lies on the S. side of the town, at a considerable distance from the sea and the principal hotels, but is connected by rails with the Gare Maritime at the steamboat -pier (Pl . C, D, 4 ) . Omnibuses from the hotels meet both the trains and the steamers (fare usually 3 /4-1 fr .). Cab from the station to the town 1 fr.; luggage under 56 lbs. free; for over-weight 21/2 c. per lb. Travellers proceeding direct to Antwerp through the Waesland ( p. 62) should book to Bruges only, and there take a fresh ticket viâ Ghent (see p. 10 and R. 10) . If a through ticket from Ostend to Antwerp be taken, the traveller is conveyed by the longer route viâ Malines . Hotels. On the Digue , with unimpeded views of the sea, nearly all large , new, and expensive: R. 4-15 , L. 3 /4-1 , A. 1 , B. 11/2-2, déj. 3, D. 4-6, pens. 10-16, board from 7 fr . In the height of the season 20-30 fr. per day are demanded for a room on the first floor, facing the sea. To the S.W. of the Cursaal: Hôtel CENTRAL ; HÔTEL WELLINGTON ; HÔTEL CONTINENTAL ( Pl. P ; B, 2) , an imposing establishment, with lift, no pension . Adjacent, HÔTEL DE L'OCÉAN (Pl. b; B, 2) ; HÔTEL DE LA PLAGE ( Pl . a ; B , 2 ) ; Hôt. Beau-RIVAGE. Rooms may also be procured at the PAVILLON DU RHIN (see next page) , farther on. - To the N.E. of the Cursaal : HÔTEL ROYAL BELGE ; HÔTEL BELLEVUE ; GRAND HÔTEL D'OSTENDE, with restaurant ; GRAND HÔ TEL DU LITTORAL ( Pl , m ; C, 2, 3) , at the corner of the Rue du Cerf ; HÔTEL DU KURSAAL ET BEAU- SITE , HÔTEL DE RUSSIE , two houses at the corner of the Rampe de Flandre, belonging to the same proprietor ; GRAND HÔTEL DES Bains, with restaurant. - Near the old light-house GRAND HÔTEL DU PHARE (Pl. g; D , 2) , with restaurant, R. & A.3-20, L. 3/4, B. 11/2, déj. 3, D.4-5, pens. 10-15 fr., open all the year ; HÔTEL NEMROD, plain, R., L., & A. 4-13, B.11/4 , déj. 2 , D. 31/2 , pens . 9-15 fr . ; etc. Adjoining the Digue: Xôtel ROYAL DE PRUSSE (Pl. h ; D, 2 ) , at the corner of the Boulevard van Iseghem and the Ruedes Capucins, R. from 3, L. & A. 11/2, B. 11/4, déj. 21/2 , D.4, pens. 9-15 fr. Just beyond the Cursaal: HÔTEL IMPÉRIAL (Pl. 0 ; B, 2), HÔTEL DE LA DIGUE (Pl. 8; D, 2), in both, R., L. , & A. 4-111/2, B. 11/4, déj. 21/2, D. 31/2-4, peng. 9-16, board from 7 fr.; HÔTEL DES ARCADES (PI! ?; B, 2 ), with restaurant, pens. 9 fr.; HÔTEL LÉOPOLD , moderate ; these all command a view of the sea from the upper windows . In the Town . Between the Digue and the Place d'Armes : " GRAND HÔTEL FONTAINE (Pl. m ; C, 2) , a large first-class house, with spacious dining-room containing several oíd pictures by Netherlandish artists, Ū.5 fr.; HÔTEL FRANK (Pl. n ; C, 2) , frequented by Jews; HÔTEL DE VIENNE ( Pſ. 0 ; C, 2 ); these three in the Rue Longue, between the Rue Louise and the Rue de Flandre. HÔTEL MERTIAN (Pl. P ; C, 2) , Rue de l'Ouest, R. from 3, L. & A. 14/2, B. 11/2, déj . ( 11-2 o'cì.) 3, D.4, pens. 9, board from71/2 fr .; CERCLE Catho LIQUE (Pl. q ; C, 2) , game street. More to the W.: HÔTEL DE SUÈDE ( Pl . r ; B, 2) , Place du Théâtre, with restaurant. In or near the Place d'Armes: *HÔTEL DU GRAND CAFÉ ( Pl. v; C , 2), corner of the Rue Louise and the Rue de Brabant, first-class, R. , L. , & A. 31/2-71 /2, B. 11/2, déj. 21/2, D.4 , peng. 10-121/ 2, board'8 fr. ; * HỐTEL DU ' LION D'OR (Pl. u ; C , 2) , corner of the Rue de Flandre and the Rue St. Sébastien, old -fashioned Belgian house, D. 3, pens . 8 fr. ; HÔTEL DE GAND ET D'ALBION BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. 1 2 Route 1 . OSTEND. Hotels. (Pl. X ; C, D, 3) , in the Marché aux Herbes, R. , L., & A. 3-9 , B. 11/4, déj. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 8-10 fr. Cour D'ANGLETERRE (Pl. 2 ; C, 3) , Rue de la Chapelle 10 ; opposite , HÔTEL DE BAVIÈRE, Rue de la Chapelle 15 , R., L. , & A. 21/2-3, B. 1 , déj. 11/2, D. 21/2, pens. 7-8 , board 5-6 fr .; EUROPE (Pl . a ; D , 2 ), Rue des Capucins, D. 21/2 fr. , unpretending. Still farther from the sea : * GRAND HÔTEL MARION ( Pl . c ; C , 3) , Rue de l'Eglise 33, first-class, D. 4 , pens. from 71/2 fr.; HÔTEL DE LA MARINE (Pl. d ; C, 3) , COUR DE FRANCE (Pl. e ; C, 3 ), D. 24/2 fr. , side by side in the Rue de la Chapelle ; opposite, Hôtel St. Denis ( Pl. f; C , 3 ), No. 44. - * HÔTEL D'ALLEMAGNE or STRACKE (Pl. i ; C , 3 ) , Rue du Quai 22,' first-class, R. & L. 31/2-6 , A. 3/4, B. 11/2, D, at 1 o'cl. 3, at 5 o'cl . 4 (to subscribers 31/2 ), pens . 111 /2-15 fr . COURONNE , Quai de l'Empereur, near the railway -station , well spoken of ; Ship Hotel , near the steamboat- pier, R. 31/2, B. 11/4 fr., well spoken of. — All the hotels on the Digue and many of those in the town are open during the season only, but the last-named are always open , Hôtels Garnis and Private Lodgings abound both on the Digue and in the town. Even at the beginning or the close of the season ( 1st June to 15th Oct. ) , a room cannot be obtained under 3-5 fr. a day, or 15-30 fr. per week. The rent of a small suite of rooms ( dining -room , drawing- room , three bedrooms, kitchen ) in June is about 300 fr., in July 500 fr., August 800 fr ., and September 600 fr. – The contract should be committed to writing, if the hirer contemplates a prolonged stay. The usual charge for a plain breakfast is 75 c .-1 fr., for attendance 50 c. per day. French is often imperfectly understood by the Flemish servants . The hirer should see that attendance is expressly included in the agree ment, both in private apartments and at the hôtels garnis , as otherwise he is liable to an extra charge of 1 fr . per day. Restaurants. On the Digue, dear, and attendance often bad. The Cursaal ( Pl. B, 1,2) , an extensive establishment with restaurant, café, a reading room, a large hall , and galleries commanding an extensive view of sea and land, open to subscribers only, is the principal resort of visitors dur ing the bathing season. With its gardens it occupies an area of about 13,000 sq . yards. Subscribers for a week or upwards are admitted to the balls at the Casino (see p . 3 ). Belgian , French , and other newspapers . Subscriptions : per day 3, 4 days 9, per week 17, per fortnight 31, per month 531/2, six weekš 681/2, per season 76 fr.; 2 pers. 6, 17, 321/2, 531/2, 76, 831/2, 91 ' fr. ; three pers. 9, 25 , 441/2, 681/2, 831/2, 943/4 , 106 'fr. ( cheaper in Sept. ). - Restaurants in the above-mentioned hotels , Wellington , Conti nental, de l'Océan , * de la Plage, and Beau - Rivage; also at the Pavillon du Rhin (Pl. f ; A, 1), the farthest to the S. , with an oyster and lobster-park . At the opposite ( N.) end of the Digue: Hôtels Royal Belge, Ostende, Littoral, Beau- Site , * Russie, see p. 1. Adjacent, the Hôtel du Phare ( Pl. g ; D 2 ; see p. 1). - Farther on , between the approaches to the Estacade, is an Estaminet where oysters are sold . Table d'hôte at the hotels, the Cur saal (for subscribers ; 6 fr .) , and the Pavillon du Rhin ( 5 fr. ). It is customary at all these establishments to give a few sous to the waiter at each repast. Cafés , besides those above mentioned : Grande Pâtisserie , Rue de Flandre 32, also a restaurant ( déj . 3, D.5 fr. ); * Noppeney , corner of the Rue de Flandre and the Rue Longue (also confectioner ); Cave de Munich, Rue de Flandre , in the Hôtel de Flandre ( p . 1 ). The Société Littéraire on the ground floor of the Hôtel de Ville ( Pl. 7 ; C, 3 ), to which strangers are not admitted unless introduced by a member (first 5 days gratis, after wards3 fr . per month) , contains a restaurant and reading- room. Wine at Michens- Verhoest , Rue de Flandre 15 (claret from 1 fr . 10 c . per bottle ; ale or porter 10 fr. per doz . , or 1 fr . per bottle ; also tea, etc. ) ; Bodega ( Spanish wine- room) , Rue de Flandre 22. — BEER at several taverns and beer -saloons. – Many of the summer- residents at Ostend cater for their own breakfast and luncheon at one of the " charcutiers' or purveyors of preserved meats, such as S. Raeymaekers, Rue de l'Ouest 4. Water. The drinking- water of Ostend is indifferent. Seltzer -water or other aëratedwaters in ‘siphons( 50 c.) will be found wholesomefor drinking, and may be procured at Noppeney's,Rue de Flandre (see above). Baths. OSTEND. 1. Route. 3 Baths ( p. 5) . Bathing- time from 7 a.m to 7 p.m. Tickets ( “coupons ') must be obtained at the office on the beach : machine (for not longer than 40 min. ) including costume and two towels 1 fr . , two additional towels 20 c . (regular bathers should purchase these requisites for themselves ; price 3-5 fr. , fee for taking charge of them 20 c . ) . The ' Paradis' , where a bathing-costume is not obligatory , lies to the E. of the harbour (Pl. E , F , 2, 3), see p. 5 ; charge including ferry over the harbour -mouth ,1 fr., office at the entrance of the Estacade. Near the old lighthouse ( Pl . D , E , 2) , is the “Section Est' , a bathing-place for the less robust bathers (70 c .). Invalids and persons unaccustomed to sea-bathing may procure the services of a ' baigneur' or 'baigneuse' for 50 c. more. The driver of the machine generally receives 5 c ., and 5 c . is given for cleaning the machine. Valuables should be left at home. Tents and ‘marquises for sitting on the beach 1-11 /2 fr . per day, or 6-9 fr. per week. Chairs , 10 c . Warm Salt- Water Baths. *Etablissement Hydrothérapique, 'adjoining the Cursaal , baths of all kinds, massage, etc .; Hoedts, Rue de l'Eglise 23 . Cabs ( Voitures de place ; stands at the railway-station and in the mar ket-place) 1 fr. per drive in the town ; first hour 11/2 fr .; each 1/2 hr. addi tional 50 c.; at night 1/2 fr. more between 10 and 1 , l'fr . more between 1 and 4.30 a.m. The fares for ‘ paniers', carriages of a superior description , are higher : drive in the town 11/2 fr ., 1 hr. 3 , each following hr. 2 fr. There is no tariff for drives outside the town. Steam Tramway (Buurtspoorweg, Chemin de Fer Vicinal) starting from the railway -station, and stopping at the Rue de la Chapelle, at the Cur saal, and the Avenue de la Reine (comp . the Pl . , p. 6 ) : to ( 14 M.) Blan kenberghe in 11/4 hr. (fares 1 fr. 50 , 1 fr. 5 c. ) ; to ( 13/4 M.) Mariakerke ( p. 6) in 1/4 br. ( 25, 15 c.) ; to (51/2 M.) Middelkerke (p. 7) in 1/2 hr. (65, 45 c. ) ; to (11 M.) Nieupori ( p . 31 ) in 1 hr. ( 1 fr. 20, 85 c . ) ; to ( 181/2 M.) Furnes ( p . 31) in 13/4 hr. ( 2 fr. 10 , 1 fr. 50 c. ) . Donkeys for hire at the s. end of the Digue, 1 fr. per hour ; Ponies, 2 fr . per hour. Sailing Boats with 2 men for 1/2 hr. 3, 1 hr. 5, 2 hrs . 6 fr. ; with 3 men 5, 6 , 8 fr. ; with 4 men 6, 8, 12 fr. Previous agreement necessary when the party consists of more than 4 persons, as otherwise 1 fr. more for each may be demanded. Out of the season the charges are less . Beggars are a great annoyance in Ostend . Concerts and Balls. Concerts daily at the Cursaal (p. 5) andevery even ing in the new Music Pavilion , near the old lighthouse ( Pl . D, 2) . Balls on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. in'the Casino, a handsome ball-room on the first floor of the Hôtel de Ville (p . 4) ; admission for non-subscribers to the Cursaal 3 fr . (' toilette de ville', i.e. a black coat ). Horse Races are held in the Hippodrome Wellington (p. 5) several times during the season . Circulating Libraries (Cabinets de lecture) . Godtfurneau , Marie Asseloos, both in theRue Longue. Newspapers are sold by Daniels- Dubar, Rue de la Chapelle 25. The Saison d'Ostende, which appears daily (20 c .), is the official organ of the Cursaal authorities ;the Sunday issue is furnished gratis to the subscribers to the Cursaal. Physicians. Dr. de Hondt, Rue de la Chapelle 62 ; Dr. Janssens, Marché aux-Herbes ; Dr. van Oye, Avenue Charles Janssens 11 ; Dr. Schramme, Rue des Capucins ; Dr. Verschuere, Boul. van Iseghem . Bankers. Agency of the Banque Nationale, Rue de Flandre ; Bach & Co, Rue des Capucins 9 . Post and Telegraph Office , Rue des Spurs Blanches 10, open 7 a.m. to 7 p. m . English Church ( Pl. 9 ; D, 2, 3 ) at the E. end of the Rue Longue ; ser vices at 11 a.m. and 3.30 p.m., chaplain, Rev. L. M. D’Orsey ; acting chaplain , Rev. A. C. R. Wolston , Rue Longue 66. Ostend (25,000 inhab . ), the second seaport of Belgium , owes most of its importance to the great passenger - traffic between Lon 1 * 4 Route 1 . OSTEND. Digue. don and the continent, of which it has long been one of the prin cipal avenues. It also possesses 210 fishing - boats, manned by 1260 men, being fully one-half the number belonging to the whole king dom ; and of late years it has become a great sea- bathing resort . The town was once strongly fortified . In 1601-1604 it sus tained one of the most remarkable sieges on record , and was only surrendered to the Spanish general Spinola in consequence of orders received from the States General. In the Spanish War of Succes sion, after the Battle of Höchstädt, Ostend was occupied by the allies under Marlborough. In 1745 Louis XV . took the fortress after a siege of 18 days , and in 1794 it was again taken by the French , who held it until 1814. The fortifications were demolished in 1865, and have been converted into promenades. Since then many fine buildings have been erected along the beach. The main street of the town is the Rue de la Chapelle (Pl. C, 4 , 3), leading from the station to the market-place (Place d'Armes), where it changes its name to Rue de Flandres or Vlaanderstraat (Pl. C, 2 ). It has lately been extended hence as far as the Digue, near which the principal shops , including some large emporiums of shells, are situated . Few of the public buildings of Ostend are worthy of note . The Church of SS. Peter and Paul ( Pl. 6 ; C, 3 , 4 ) contains a monument to Queen Louise (p . 114), who died here in 1850, by Fraikin. The large Town Hall (Pl. 7) is in the Place d'Armes (Pl. C, 2, 3). The ground -floor is occupied by the Société Littéraire , mentioned on p . 2, while the ball -rooms of the Casino ( p. 3) are on the first floor. The tower is surmounted by an anemometer, or wind- gauge. The Church of St. Catharine, in the Rue Christine, finished in 1883, has been built in the style of the 13th cent, and is a copy of an old church of Ghent, now pulled down . The interior contains finely - carved choir-stalls and pulpit. The Parc Léopold (Pl . B, 3) is tastefully laid out and will be a pleasant resort when the trees are larger ( café in the middle ). Ostend is one of the most fashionable and cosmopolitan watering places in Europe. During the season (1st June-15th Oct.) it attracts 32,000 visitors (including passing travellers) from all parts of Eu rope, especially from Belgium and France. The chief promenade is the * Digue, a stone dyke or bulwark upwards of 1 M. in length , about 33 yds . wide , and 33 ft. in height , extending along the coast from N.E. to S.W. With the exception of the carriage- road, 13 yds. in breadth , the whole is laid with terracotta bricks. The scene pre sented by this promenade and its environs during the height of the season will strike the English traveller who witnesses it for the first time as novel and amusing. The fact that a very large proportion of the visitors are inlanders, who have never seen the sea, and are now for the first time in their lives rejoicing in its health-restoring breezes and ever- changeful aspect, sufficiently accounts for the popularity of Harbour. OSTEND . 1. Route. 5 a place which affords few other attractions . The traveller, therefore, by visiting the Digue on a warm summer-evening , will at a glance witness the most characteristic phase of Ostend life. Several ap proaches ascend to it from the town. Along the Digue stretches a row of handsome new buildings , including the hotels and restau rants mentioned on pp. 1 , 2 , and numerous private villas , some of which are tasteful structures in the Flemish Renaissance style. Near the middle rises the handsome CURSAAL (Pl . B, 1 , 2 ; p . 2 ), erected in 1876-78, from the designs of Naert of Brussels. Farther on, upon a lofty dune, stands the Palais du Roi (Pl . A, 1 ) , or royal villa, beyondwhich the Digue extends past Fort Wellington to Ma riakerke (p .6 ). Near the fort is the HippodromeWellington (p. 3 ). The Bathing Places (Pl. A , B, 1 ) adjoin the Digue on the S.W. side , and there are about 400 bathing -machines. Most of the visi tors bathe in the morning. There is here , as at French watering places , no separation of the sexes ; but the striotest propriety is ob served, and every bather is provided with a costume . Ladies may avoid publicity by bathing at a very early hour. Gentlemen who prefer bathing ( sans costume' should go to the ' Paradis', where, as its nameimports, they may dispense with a bathing -dress (p. 3). At the Ñ .E. end of the Digue is the Estacade (Pl . E, 2) , con sisting of two estaches , or piers ( the W. about 1/3 M. in length , the E. 100 yds . longer) , which shelter the entrance to the harbour and afford a view of the arriving and departing steamers. They are provided with seats ( chair 10 c . ), and serve as a public promenade. The entrance to the harbour ( Chenal ; Pl. E, 2 ) is 180 yds. in length . The Harbour itself consists of the Avant - Port, the Bassin du Commerce, and the Arrière - Port. The Bassin de Chasse (Pl . E, 3,4) , with its massive gates , was constructed for the purpose of sweeping away the sandbanks at the mouth of the harbour , the water being confined within it at high tide, and allowed to escape suddenly at low tide. The other parts of the harbour and the locks of Slykens (p . 6) were constructed under Emp. Joseph II. At the upper end of the New Basin lies the Minque or Fish Market (Marché aux Poissons ; Pl. D, 4 ), a circular building with an open court, where the auctions described at p. 6 take place from 7 to 9 return of the fishing -boats. Beyond the entrance to the harbour and the Bassin de Chasse just mentioned , which we skirt for 10 min. , rises the * Lighthouse ( Nouveau Phare ; Pl. F, 4 ), 174 ft . in height, which should be in spected by those who have never seen the interior of such a struc ture. ( As there is no tariff for excursions by boat to the lighthouse, a bargain should be made beforehand ; 25-30 c ., or, there and back, 50-75 c. , is sufficient. ) The lantern ( fee 1/2 fr .) contains a series of prisms, resembling beehives in shape, and reflectors of copper plated with platina, by which arrangement the light is said to be in tensified a thousand - fold , and to be visible at a distance of 45 M. a.m. , on the 6 Route 1 . SLYKENS. > > > The top commands an extensive view in fine weather. Nieuport, Furnes, and even Dunkirk are seen towards the S.W. , the Cursaal of Blankenberghe to the N.E. , and the towers of Bruges to the E. The Oyster Parks (Huîtrières ) are extensive reservoirs on the N.E. and S.W. sides of the Digue ( several near the Bruges Gate , e.g. Stichert & Stracke, who admit visitors) , where vast quantities of these favourite bivalves are stored throughout the greater part of the year. They are imported from the English coast , and kept here in prime condition by daily supplies of clarified sea- water. Their price varies from 5 to 8 fr . per hundred , and upwards. Abundant and fresh supplies may therefore always be procured, except in the height of summer, when they are out of season . Lobsters , brought chiefly from Norway, are kept in separate receptacles in the huîtrières , and fetch from 2 to 6 fr. each. Fish is generally plentiful, especially in summer, when transport is difficult. A large turbot may often be bought for 10-15 fr. ; soles, cod , haddocks, mackerel , and skate are of course less expensive . Crabs , shrimps , and mussels are also abundant. Shells of every variety may be purchased . All these different kinds of fish are sold by public auction in the fish -market (p . 5) , under the supervision of the muni cipal authorities. The principal sales take place on fast days (Wed. and Frid . ). The salesman fixes a high price in sous for each lot, and then gradually descends , until a bidder calls out myn ' and thus becomes the purchaser. The great advantage of this ‘ Dutch auction ' is that a single bid settles the matter, and much confusion is thus prevented. Most of the purchasers are women, who afterwards retail the fish in the market. The Flemish lan guage alone is spoken on these occasions , and the spectator has an excellent opportunity of witnessing a characteristic scene of Bel gian life. An immense number of rabbits are killed annually on the Dunes around Ostend . Several ecclesiastical and popular Festivals are celebrated at Ostend in July and August , including the “Kermesses', at which the Belgian archers, of whom there are numerous clubs, always act a prominent part, displaying extraordinary strength and skill . The most interesting church festival is the Procession on St. Peter's Day (29th June) , when the ceremony of blessing the sea is performed before a large concourse of fishermen and their families. Slykens ( Café de la Concorde) , 11/4 M. to the E. of Ostend , a village on the road to Bruges, may easily be visited on foot. Other walks may be made to Oudenburg (p. 10 ), den Haan (p. 9) , Wen duyne (p . 8 ), etc. Along the coast to the W. of Ostend are several smaller sea bathing resorts, both quieter and less expensive than Ostend, Blan kenberghe ( p . 7 ), or Heyst (p. 9) . Mariakerke (Cursaal; Hôtel Speranza ; pens. in both from 6 fr .; Villa Beauséjour), 13/4 M. to the S.W. of Ostend, may be reached in 1/2 hr. by the Digue (p . 5) , and it is also the first station on . A c D G G1 B R M Bain 1 Digu due Roi Res TE de Mer 1. Kursaal, B.C.2. 2.Caserne. A.4. 3. Ecoles A.3.A.3.4.1.3. 4. Eglise des Capucins D.2.3. 5. Notre Dame B.C.5 6. St Pierreet Paul ( E. Paroissiale). C.3,4 7. Hôtel de Ville. 3.C, 8. Marchéau poisson D.3 9. Temple Anglican D.2.3.2 10. Theâtre B.C.2. 11. Posteet Télégraphe C.3. Keilarsonie n Isfe ghem Estacade d'Ouest Chen Char! Phare Paradis Ch.de Thourout Seous Militriere a'arme Place indes geur Bom Blanches 3 Qual des Pecheurs Nouveau Bassin Port Eclused Chasse 3du Midi Ouveau IND Amester Lm Bas sin My du R. Caire Nouveau Phierasta Ta Impereur Van Mingue de -Fanaldes Dun FANANAW WE Chasse Fort Impérial Station MAS (44ป็ น STRA illes achen.de for -Thourout Bruges Station Erotrepôtmaritime Lietkemores SB dit Port CP Carrer Huntière OSTENDE 3 100 1: 18.000 200 ago Mètres 400 sool Kchise de Chasse Arançaise poused Chasse Mette MOM S BROOD E D F B Wagner# Debs, Leipzig Geograph. Anstalt von .Kilometres 1.4 o Échelle 425,000 1: Miles Engl . 2 NORD MERDU geldfinger Variakerke Viddelkerke rellongton SOSTENDE Maan dan Imperial art stend leo di tiche NE BRE kere yos Stallar Ouden Bruges Can de BrugesBasil ) ae .Сат O Angel Blankenberghe ont deOost Dunkert Tilskerke deLombaert Pitreedend Hardagen Nieuporti luytkerke oytecne Herst Clemskerke naveghem SAWulpen Groerendijk Stipe Mierarna onster Kerkhoek Leffanghe StGeorges furnes Vetrone (Ransy Knocke Land yourdo Lissenveghe telfrege flaschandalia Argent Margrekerfspere Roonscappelle © Bedtshocke radskerke KadzaSteenkerk Testcappelle Istriere Coopedie Stoyenhaen Houttare trecappelle Schhore Chistellesy bororg Dudzeete 71RetraWeletkerk Aggewaerts Zevecote Perwyse staðallegrugge Ettelghem cappelle Sarna ter uden Leke Vande Westkerke srape Oastkarki Jabbeke Lampeusse Bekeghaño Monche Stugrekers Hoere ShriEclulopray soz -pightecoottarke Damme Oost kerke Кеует Zerkeg Varssenaere Werke hem tcpsekeureDraar Beerst Eenleghem Andre St Coudcelacre Hetlegħem )BRUGGE BRUGES Padlecuppelle enelDismude (ooruiden nichey st froid teVive Cappe WoerkerkeVeitter Zedelghem Jacques s!Copp . Ichteghem Maete ztcerbrugge Madsloo MaardBovekerke Hertrycke Scheeweghe Middelburg Eessen Lophem Sysseele 3Kreis Lowonnen Site Blanchett Wercken Wynendaele Kapper Wynen Hotlevoorde Dostcamp Donck date Bescheedwege Miegende *keerath kroorde De Stroobrugge Clercker Zurreny school Woor Harisaeme Oedelem AHOUROUT Berghem Curaerts Wardamme Alercken Maldegen Tereest Cortemarck CetieBrude JanuNachtegael broddanone Streghoek Ruddery Furthauwehoek voorde postreld offertsberghen Beernem Droplose Adegem Bicschoote meManeken o BalgenhStaden Trichterelde Het.Aerarys Georges Heylendoncko toact Stichiesto Ricke Tanghengesyo Studenberg Perstalle Gits lifille Aettepshoekockey Ouderdyk Knesselaere Vooglede Zwevezeeleo Poelhappelle Westroosebeeke Baessels Slucinskenhoek Ecole deRéforme BECstophaege Wmghene Teldckenso Gern Arealtv TUNUT WarDebe&Leip. Can Assebrouk ion 181 de Setiaete AN Panne la cappelle kerke Bains Microport Verd cappella Furnes Xpres vicinal Fer de Chemin Tysét Ypres BLANKENBERGHE. 2. Route. 7 the steam-tramway mentioned at p. 3. The bathing -arrangements are good ; bath , including coach and costume , 75 c. from 11-12 o'clock ; at other times 50 c . About 3 M. beyond Mariakerke (one-horse carr. from Ostend 8-12, two-horse 14-18 fr .) lies Middelkerke ( Hôtels des Bains, de la Plage, de la Digue, du Cursaal ), also on the steam - tramway (p . 3) and the starting-point of the submarine telegraph cable to the English coast. There is nothing to mark the latter spot except the watchman's hut on the sandhill. Farther on is the Hospice Ro ger de Grimberghe for invalid children, opened in 1884 and con taining 120 beds (daily 21/2 fr.). Nieuport, another of this group of watering - places, 10 M.to the S.W. of Ostend ( steam - tramway, p. 3) is described at p. 31 . To the W. of Nieuport are finally the new bathing-resort of Oostduin kerke and the older La Panne (" Grand-Hôtel Panne- Bains, Flemish ) lying close to the French border. La Panne may be reached viâ Furnes (p. 31) or from the Belgian frontier -station Adinkerke (p . 32 ). 2. Blankenberghe and Heyst. Blankenberghe. Hotels. On the Digue, often overcrowded in the height of the season. To the right of the principal approach to the Digue: GRAND HÔTEL DESBAINS ET DES FAMILLES, containing 500 apartments, with a terrace overlooking the sea, R. , L. , A. , & B. 5-15 , D. 3, S. 2, pens. from 10 fr . HÔTEL DU RHIN, with café-restaurant. Farther on, Pavillon Royal, annexe of the Hôt. de la Paix (see below ), pens. 9-12 fr.; PAVILLON DES PRINCES (good cuisine) and HÔTEL CONTINENTAL, under the same manage ment as the Hôt. Cursaal (see below ). To the left of the principal ap proach: Hôtel GODDĒRIS, table d'hôte at 1 (3 fr .) and 7 o'clock (2 fr.), pens. 7-15 fr. ; Maison VEUVE EMILE GODDERIS, well spoken of; HÔTEL CURSAAL, with 120 rooms , 1st class , R., L., & A. from 4 , B.11/4, déj. 3 , D. 3, pens . from 9 fr. ; HÔTEL Pauwels D'HONDT, large, L. 1/2, B. 1, D. 21/2-3, S. 13/ 4-2, pens. 8-15 fr. ; HÔTEL VICTORIA , D. at 1 and 5 p.m. 3 fr., s . at 7 p.m. 2 fr., 2 plat du jour 1 fr .; HÔTEL DE L'OCÉAN , moderate; HÔTEL DE VENISE ; HÔ TEL DE L'UNIVERS. Farther to the W., at the entrance to the harbour, HÔTEL DU PHARE, D. 21/2 fr. In the Town. In the Rue de l'Eglise , close to the principal approach to the Digue : HÔTEL DU LION D'Or ; *ETOILE D'OR, R., L., & A. 31/2-41/2, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens. 8-10, board 5-51/2 fr . Farther on in the Rue de l'Église, on the way from the Digue to the railway -station: HÔTEL D'ALLEMAGNE, R. 3-4, L.1 !4-1/2, D. 21/2, pens. 7-10, board 5 fr .; HÔTEL DE LA Paix , D. 29/2, pens. 71/ 2-9'fr. ; HÔTEL" Troch, Rue Haute; HổTEL DE GAND, Rue Longue * GRAND HÔTEL D'Hondt, Rue de l'Eglise 22, much resorted to by Belgians of the middle class , pension 8-10 fr. Adjacent is the boarding house of DR. VERHAEGHE, Rue Longue, pension 8-10 fr ., with dépendance near the ascent to the Digue; HÔTEL DE Bruges, Rue des Pêcheurs 53, with several ' dépendances” ; TÊTE D'OR, same street 18, D. at 1 p.m. 2, s. at 7 p.m. 14/2 fr. , both well spoken of. Near the station : HÔTEL DU CHEMIN DE FER, MILLE COLONNES (D. 2 fr . ) , LE PETIT ROUGE, HÔTEL DU LITTORAL, which may all be described as restaurants with rooms to let. – Those who do not mean to make any stay in a hotel should announce at once that they do not wish to be received ' en pension' , otherwise the pension price is charged also for the day after thedeparture. On the Digue are situated numerous Hôtels Garnis, in which rooms facing the sea cost 4-15 fr . per day (with two beds 2 fr . extra ). In the town furnished apartments abound in almost every street ( 2-5 fr. per day) , but are sometimes all engaged in the height of the season . Those who have not previously written for rooms should arrange to reach Blankenberghe bo 8 Route 2 . BLANKENBERGHE. > early in the day, so that they may return to Bruges the same evening in case of disappointment. The following houses are recommended : Dr. Cosyn, Rue du Moulin 23 ; Dr. van Mullem , Grande Maison Leroy, Rue de l'Eglise. Cafés and Restaurants. At the Grand -Hótel des Bains, see p. 7, déj. 3, D. 5 fr.; at the other hotels ; also the Casino, to which subscribers only are admitted, D. at 1.30 and 5 o'clock 21/2-3, S. at 7o'clock ; Deutsches Bierhaus, Rue des Pêcheurs ; Cave de Munich, in the Hôtel de l'Univers, etc. Wine and Oysters at Lefèbure's, Rue de l'Eglise 14. Physicians. Dr. Cosyn , see above ; also , Drs. van den Abeele, Butaye, van der Ghint, Schramme, and others, who come over from Bruges in the season . Bathing Machines 1 fr . , children 40 c .; the attendants expect a trifling fee from regular bathers. Tents, for protection against sun and wind (not against rain) , may be hired on the beach for 1 fr. per day. - Bath ing Dresses may be purchased in the town for 5-8 fr . Warm Baths in the Grand Hôtel des Bains, see p . 7 . Boats. For a row of 1-2 hrs . The charge is 5 fr. ; for a party 1 fr. each . Donkeys for rides on the beach : per 1/2 hr. 50 c. ; to Heyst 2-3 fr. ' La Vigie de la Côte', published on Sundays, contains a list of the visi tors , tide-tables, etc. Balls daily at the Cursaal during the season , for subscribers . English Church Serviceduring the season at the Chapel in the Rue Breydel at 10.45 a.m. and 3.30 p.m.; chaplain , Rev. A. V. H. Hallett of Bruges (p . 12). Blankenberghe , " 12 M. to the N.E. of Ostend and 9 M. to the N. of Bruges, a small fishing-town with about 4000 inhab . , consists of small one-storied houses , and resembles Scheveningen (R. 39) . It first came into notice as a sea - bathing place in 1840, and of late has become a rivalof Ostend, being visited by 10,000 persons an nually (30,000, if passing travellers be included ). It is, however, quieter and somewhat less expensive . Handsome new buildings are on the increase , and a theatre has been begun . The 'dunes' (downs , or sand-hills) are paved so as to form a kind of digue', like that at Ostend , which affords a promenade 22 yds. wide and upwards of 1 M. in length, flanked with hotels and villas and provided with the electric light. On the right, or N.E. side of the central approach , adjoining the Grand Hôtel des Familles, is the large Casino, the concert-room of which can accommodate 4000 persons . In front of the hotels is a Band Stand, the position of which is altered from time to time. At the S.W. end of the Digue rises the Lighthouse, situated at the entrance of a small Harbour, constructed for the use of the fishing - boats, many of which, however, continue as of old to be hauled up on the beach. Like that of Ostend the harbour is protected from silting by piers, which extend into the sea for about 350 yds . The pier-heads are provided with seats . Lisseweghe, 41/2 M. to the S.E. of Blankenberghe, was a flourishing town in the Middle Ages, but now has only 1800 inhabitants . It has a small station on the Bruges railway, from which, however , it is 1 M. distant ( see p . 10) . The Church , a handsome structure of the 13th century in the transition style , formerly belonged to an abbey, and has been restored with little taste . At the end of the left aisle is a Visitation by J. van Oost the Elder. The truncated tower , although two - thirds of it only are completed, is a very conspicuous object in the landscape. A huge barn ( now a farm ), with immenge oaken beams, dating from 1280 , is the solitary relic of the wealthy abbey of Ter Doest. From BLANKENBERGHE TO OSTEND, steam -tramway in 11/4 hr ., see p. 3. At ( 3 M.) Wenduyne ( Pavillon des Dunes ; Café Bienvenue des Étrangers; a HEYST. 2. Route . 9 Café des Etrangers, pens. 5-6 fr.), a small sea-bathing place, is an extensive hospice for delicate children (200 beds) . - 51/2 M. Den Haan ( Hốt. đem Haan or Le Coq, pens. 6-7, D. at 1 p.m. 21/2 fr ., sea -bath and costume 3/4 fr . ) is another small bathing resort, "recently established among the dunes, which are here 1/2 M. broad. The afforesting of the latter, begun in 1835, was recommenced by government in 1888. – The walk along the beach from Blankenberghe to Heyst is about the same distance (51/2 M.). Railway to Bruges and to Heyst, see p. 10. Heyst. Hotels and Pensions. On the Digue : *CURSAAL , ' pension' 7-11 fr.; GRAND HÔTEL , on the seaward side of the Cursaal; GRAND HÔTEL DES BAINS, new, D. 21/2, pens. from 5 fr.; HÔTEL DE LA PLAGE, frequented by the Roman Catholic clergy, R. , L., & A. 23 /4-33 /4, B. 1, déj. 11/2, D. 21/2, pens. 6-8, board 5 fr. ; HÔTEL DE BRUGEs, pens. from 6 fr ., good cuisine ; MAISON DES FAMILLES , pens. 6-7 fr.; HÔTEL DU PHARE , recently enlarged , 150 rooms, R. from 3-5 , L. & A. 1/2, B. 1, D. 21/2, pens, 6-10, board 5 fr., well spoken of ; HÔTEL ROYAL, HÔTEL DE FLANDRE , smaller ; HÔTEL GARNI DE l'OCÉAN, to the landward of the Cursaal. -In the Village, a few minutes' walk from the beach ( all unpretending): PAVILLON DES DUNES ; HÔTEL DE Namur ; HÔTELDU RIVAGE ; HÔTEL DE LA MARINE; Hôtel LEOPOLD II. , B. 1 , D. 2, S. 11/2, pens. 4-6 fr ., well spoken of; HÔTEL PAUWELS, quité unpretending. Bath 75 c .; arrangements somewhat deficient. - Donkeys 1 fr. per hour. The Railway Station lies in the centre of the village , about 100 yds . from the Digue. Railway to Blankenberghe ( 1/4 hr. ) and Bruges, see next page. Heyst, a village with 2500 inhab .; the terminus of the rail way mentioned at p . 10 , is also a sea-bathing resort and attracts upwards of 3000 visitors annually. As at Ostend and Blankenberghe , there is here a long Digue, 22 yds. broad, paved with brick , and flanked with lodging - houses and restaurants , besides the above mentioned hotels . The village possesses a large brick Roman Catholic Church, in the Gothic style . About 1/2 M. to the S.W. of Heyst are the mouths of two ca nals ( Canal de dérivation de la Lys, constructed in 1857-63), which drain an extensive plain , and are closed by huge lock-gates . The unpleasant odour from the canal - water is noticeable at ebb-tide even at Heyst when the wind is from the W. , and is not without effect on the healthiness of the place. FROM HEYST TO BRUGES, about 13M., steam -tramway in about 11/2 hr. 24/2 M. Knokke (Grand Hotel de Knokke, pens. 5 fr., well spoken of; bath 1/2 fr .), a small seaside resort, 11/4 M. from the beach, with a life boat station and a lighthouse . The dunes ( 80 ft . high ) afford a view of Flushing and the island of Walcheren . · 312 M. Westcapelle (branch- line to Sluis, see below ) ; 8 M. Dudzeele ; Koolkerke ; Bruges, see p. 11. From Westcapelle (see above), a tramway-line runs viâ Sint Anna ter Muiden , a village of Dutch character, to (6 M.) Sluis, French l'Ecluse (Hof van Brussel), a small and ancient seaport, situated beyond the Dutch frontier, and connected with (3 hrs. ) Bruges by a canal. Sluis possesses a belfry of the 14th century . A steamer plies twice daily ( except Sun.) in 2 hrs . be tween Sluis and Bruges, leaving the former in the morning and afternoon and the latter in the afternoon and evening. There is also a steam - tram way from Sluis to Maldeghem ( p . 10 ; in 11/2 hr.) and Breskens ( p. 244 ; in 21/4 hrs. ). – A pleasant day's excursion may be made from Bruges, to Heyst, Sluis, etc. ; returning from Sluis to Bruges along the canal which is bordered with trees and pleasure -grounds, viâ Damme ( p. 27 ). Gadzand (comp. p . 27), a Dutch village recently frequented for sea bathing, lies to the N. of Sluis ( 11/2 hr. by carriage), and may be reached from Knokke on foot along the coast in 2 hrs . In the village is the inn 'de Witte Leeuw' ; and on the dune 11/2 M. distant, another modest inn , with rooms to let . 10 3. From Ostend to Brussels viâ Bruges and Ghent. 76 M. RAILWAY ( Chemin de Fer de l'Etat). Express to Bruges in 1/2 hr. , to Ghent in 11/2 hr ., to Brussels in 21/4-23/ 4 hrs.; ordinary trains in 3/4 , 2 , and 4 hrs. Fares to Bruges 1 fr. 75, 1 fr. 30 , 90 c .; to Ghent 4 fr . 90 , 3 fr. 60 , 2 fr. 45 c .; to Brussels 9 fr . 30, 6 fr. 95, 4 fr. 65 c ; express one-fourth more. The express - trains in connection with the Dover steamboats start from the quay, the ordinary trains from the station in the town . Before ( 41/2 M. ) Oudenburg the line crosses the canal diverging from the Ostend canal to the S.W. , and leading viâ Nieuport and Furnes to Dunkirk . The town lies to the right in the midst of a sandy district , with an oasis of productive gardens which supply Ostend with fruit and vegetables . Oudenburg is said once to have been a flourishing commercial town , and to have been destroyed by Attila about the middle of the 5th century. 83/4 M. Jabbeke. 14 M. Bruges, see p . 11 , and Map, p . 7 . From BRUGES TO BLANKENBERGHE (91/2 M.) AND HEYST (15 M.) by rail way in 30 and 50 min . respectively ( fares 1 fr. 15, 90 , 60 c ., and 1 fr. 85 , 1 fr. 40 , 95 c . ) . The outside seats (3rd class) on the top of the carriages afford a good survey of the rich plain of Flanders, but are very draughty. - Stations : 2 M. Bruges- Bassin , the port for Bruges, with ships and large timber stores ; 5 M. Dudzeele ; 7 M. Lisseweghe ( p . 8) ; 8 M. Blankenberghe ( p . 7) ; 15 M. Heyst ( p . 9 ) . To Thourout ( Courtrai and Ypres) , see p . 32. Stations Oostkamp, Bloemendael , ( 28 M.) Aeltre ( steam - tramway to Thielt, see p . 31 ) , Bellemn , Hansbeke, Landeghem, Tronchiennes. 401/2 M. Gand - St. Pierre. 421/2 M. Ghent, see p . 34. From Ghent to Antwerp, see R. 10 ; to Courtrai, see R. 8 . From GHENT TO TERNEUZEN ( 261/2 M.) by railway in 11/2 hr. (fares 3 fr ., 2 fr . 30, 1 fr. 50 c . ) . The train starts from the Station du Chemin de Fer de l'Etat, stopping at the Station du Pays de Waes ( see p . 34) , and then follows the direction of the canal mentioned at p . 35. Stations Wondelghem (see below ), Langerbrugge, Terdonck - Cluysen , Ertvelde, Selzaete ( junction of the line from Bruges to Lokeren , p . 63 , and the last Belgian station ), Sas(i.e . , lock ) van Ghent (the first Dutch station , where the locks of the above mentioned canal are situated), Philippine, Sluyskill, and Terneuzen ( Neder landsch Logement), a small fortified town at the mouth of the important canal which connects Ghent with the Schelde . Steamboat thence twice daily in 11/2 hr. to Flushing ( p . 243 ) ; omnibus from the station at Flushing to the ( 3/4 M. ) steamboat-pier. FROM Ghent To Bruges there is a private railway (30 M.) , the continua tion of the Waesland line (p. 62), as well as the Chemin de Fer de l'Etat . Trains run in 65-95 min . (fares 2 fr . 70, 1 fr . 80, 1 fr . 35 c . ), starting from the Station d'Eecloo, on the N.E. side of the town. Stations Wondelghem , Everghem , Sleydinge, Waerschoot, Eecloo (a busy town with 10,400 inhab., where the Bruges, Selzaete, and Lokeren line diverges to the right), Bal gerhoeke, Adeghem, Maldeghem (branch -line to Breskens viâ Sluis, see p. 9) , Donck, Syseele, Steenbrugge, and Bruges (p. 11) . 45 M. Melle (p. 62), beyond which a line diverges to the S. to Ath (p.69), Quatrecht, Wetteren, and Schellebelle , where the line to Malines diverges to the left ( p . 62). 561/2 M. Alost, Flem . Aalst (Hôtel de Flandre, Hôt. des Arcades , both at the station ; Duc de Brabant; Mille Colonnes) , a town with 23,100 inhab . , on the Dendre , was formerly the capital of the

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BRUGES. 4. Route. 11 county of Keizer - Vlaanderen , and the frontier- town of the province in this direction . A considerable trade in hops is carried on here. The Church of St. Martin, in the late -Gothic style (about 1498 ), is little more than a fragment, two-thirds of the nave, as well as the tower and portal, being entirely wanting. It contains an admirable picture by Rubens, said to have been painted in 1631 in one week : Christ appointing St. Rochus tutelary saint of the plague -stricken . The museum at Ghent possesses a copy of this work . A statue by Jos. Geefs was erected in 1856 in front of the Hôtel de Ville to Thierry Maertens, the first Belgian printer, who exercised his craft at Alost . The beautiful belfry of the Hôtel de Ville was thoroughly restored after a fire in 1879. The old town- hall, built early in the 13th cent. , is now a meat-market. From Alost to ANTWERP , 30 M. , railway in 13/4 hr. (fares 3 fr . 65, 2 fr . 75, 1 fr . 85 c . ) . - 13/4 M. Moorsel. 51/2 M. Opwyck , the junction of the Brussels, Dendermonde, and Ghent railway (p. 62); 10 M. Steenhutfel, with a church containing stained glass of the 16th cent. ; 12 M. Londerzeel, the junction of the Malines and Ghent line ( p . 135 ) ; 20 M. Boom, see p . 62 ; 24 M. Hemixem , with an old Bernardine abbey, now a prison . - 27 M. Hoboken , near the Schelde, with numerous villas of Antwerp merchants and a large ship -building yard belonging to the Cockerill establishment ( p. 213) . Branch- line to Oude God ( p. 135 ). — 30 M. Antwerp , see p . 136. Stations Erembodeghem , (61 M.) Denderleeuw (where a line diverges to Ninove and Ath , p.69) , Esschene- Lombeek, Ternath, Bodeghem - Saint-Martin , Dilbeek , Berchem- Sainte-Agathe , Jette (where the Dendermonde line diverges) , and Laeken (p . 114), where the royal château is seen on the left. The train finally stops at the Station du Nord at (76 M. ) Brussels (p . 72) . 4. Bruges. Hotels. * HÔTEL DE FLANDRE ( Pl. a ; B, 5) , Rue Nord- du-Sablon 38, R. 3-5, A. 3/4, L. 3/4, B. 11/2, déj. 31/2 , D. 4, pens. 8-10 fr .; *Grand HÔTEL DU COMMERCE (Pl . b; B, 4 ), Rue St. Jacques 20, an old -established and com fortable family-hotel, frequented by English travellers, R. 21 /2-4 , L. " /2 , A. 3/4, B. 19/4 , D. at 1 p.m. 3, at 6 p.m. 31/2 fr.; * HÔTEL DU SABLON (Pl. n ; B, 5 ), Rue Nord -du-Sablon ; * HÔTEL DE L'UNIVERS (Pl. C ; A, 5 ), conveniently situated for passing travellers; charges at these two: R., L., & A. 21/2-3, B. 1-11/4, déj. 2, D. 21/2, pens. 7-8 fr. ; *HÔTEL DE LONDRES (Pl . d ; A , 5 ), at the station, R., L., & A. 2-3 , B. 1, D. 21/2 fr . , with frequenteá café restaurant; Comte de FLANDRE, SINGE D'OR ( Pl. e ; A , 5 ), with cafés, oppo site the station ; HÔTEL ST. AMAND (Pl. f ; B, 5 ), Rue St. Amand, R., L., & A. 23/4-33/4, B. 1, D. 21/2 , pens. 71/2 fr.; these three well spokenof; 'HÔTEL DE L'OURS D'OR (Vl. g ; B, 5 ), Rue Courte d'Argent; PANIER D'OR (Pl. h ; B, 4) , opposite the covered market, on the N. side of the large market- place, with café-restaurant, unpretending, R. & B. 21/2 , D. 2 , S. 11/2 fr. Cafés -Restaurants. In the hotels ; Café Foy (Pl. i ; C , 5 ), in the Grande Place, at the corner of the Rue Philipp Stok ; Grand Café, Grande Place, at the corner of the Rue des Pierres ; Trois Suisses, Rue Philipp Stok ; Vogel, Grande Place (Munich beer) . Baths. Bains St. Sauveur, at the back of the cathedral (Pl. B, 5 ). Cabs 1 fr . per drive ; one hour 11/2 fr ., each additional 1/2 hr. 75 c .; open carriages 19/2, 2, and 1 fr . respectively. Post and Telegraph Office , Rue de Cordoue (Pl. 7 ; C, 4) and at the Gare Centrale (Pl . A, 5 ). 12 Route 4 . BRUGES. History. 2 Steam - Tramway to Heyst, viâ Westcapelle (branch to Sluis, p. 9) and Knokke (p. 9 ). The cars start from the railway- station and halt at various points in the town . English Church , Rue des Baudets ; services at 11 and 7 (5.30 in winter) ; chaplain , Rev. A. V. Hughes Hallett , M. A. , Rue du Vieux Sac 30. Principal Attractions : Cathedral ( p . 13) , Hospital of St. John (p . 18) , Notre Dame ( p . 15 ), Chapelle du Saint- Sang ( p. 23 ), Palais de Justice ( p. 25 ), Museum ( p. 20 ), Hôtel de Ville (p. 23) , Belfry ( p . 21 ) . Bruges, Flem . Brügge, the capital of W. Flanders, lies 71/2 M. from the North Sea, with which it is connected by two deep canals, navigable for sea - going vessels of considerable tonnage. One of these terminates at Sluis ( l'Ecluse ; pp. 9 , 244), the other at Ostend . There are also canals from Bruges to Ghent, Ypres , Nieuport, and Furnes . The formation of a harbour for sea-going ships is contemplated . The broad streets and numerous old houses, chiefly of late - Gothic architecture, recall its ancient glory ; and of all the cities of Belgium , Bruges has best preserved its mediæval characteristics (p. xl). With the exception of the quarter between the large market-place and the railway - station , the town now presents a melancholy and deserted appearance . Nearly one - fourth of the 47,000 inhab . are said to be paupers . In the 14th cent. Bruges (which in Flemish means bridges , a name due to the numerous bridges crossing the canals) was the great com mercial centre of Europe. Factories , or privileged trading companies from seventeen different kingdoms had settled here ; twenty foreign ministers resided within the walls ; and inhabitants of remote dis tricts , of which the very names were almost unknown , visited the renowned city every year. Early in the 13th cent. Bruges became one of the great marts of the Hanseatic League and of the English wool trade. Lombards and Venetians conveyed hither the products of India and Italy , and returned home with the manufactures of England and Germany. Richly - laden vessels from Venice , Genoa, and Constantinople might be seen simultaneously discharging their cargoes here , and the magazines of Bruges groaned beneath the weight of English wool, Flemish linen , and Persian silk . In 1302, when Johanna of Navarre, with her husband Philippe le Bel of France, visited Bruges and beheld the sumptuous costumes of the inhabit ants , she is said to have exclaimed : ' I imagined myself alone to be queen , but I see hundreds of persons here whose attire vies with my own. ' Bruges was long the residence of the Counts of Flanders . It attained the culminating point of its prosperity during the first half of the 15th cent. , when the Dukes of Burgundy held their court here. During this period a brilliant colony of artists was retained at Bruges in busy employment, and their works still shed a lustre on the name of the city. The* Railway Station , a tasteful Gothic structure, is in the old MARCHẾ DU VENDREDI (P1. A, 5). Here, on 30th March , 1128, the townspeople, after having elected Count Theodoric of Alsace to be Count of Flanders , returned the following spirited answer to the Cathedral. BRUGES. 4. Route. 13 > deputies of the king of France, who had sent to object to their choice : ' Go, tell your master that he is perjured ; that his creature William of Normandy (usurper of the sovereignty of Flanders) has rendered himself unworthy of the crown by his infamous extortions; that we have elected a new sovereign , and that it becomes not the king of France to oppose us . That it is our privilege alone , as burghers and nobles of Flanders, to choose our own master . ' To the right in the street leading from the railway- station into the town is situated the Cathedral (St. Sauveur ; Pl . B, 5) , an early Gothic brick structure of the 13th and 14th cent. (choir, end of 13th cent. ; nave and transept , 1358-62 ; the five chapels of the choir, 1482-1527; vaulting of the ambulatory, 1527-30). Externally it is a cumbrous building, destitute of a portal, disfigured by later additions , and surmounted by a W. tower resembling a castle, the lower part of which dates back to the 12th cent. , while the upper part was completed in 1843 . The * INTERIOR is remarkable for its fine proportions , and is adorned with numerous paintings (sacristan 1 fr ., more for a party). It measures 110 yds . in length, 41 yds. in breadth, and across the transept 58 yds. , and is 90 ft. high. The modern polychrome de coration is by Jean Béthune.

North AISLB ( left ). The entrance doorway, the carved doors of which have been removed to the Ancien Greffe ( p.23) , is surmount ed by five groups of carved wood, painted and gilded , representing scenes from thePassion, and dating from about1460. —At the en trance of the Baptistery are two monumental *Brasses, the one on the right, of excellent design , dating from 1439, that on the left from 1518. This chapel contains a Crucifixion , painted about 1390 by an unknown master of the Cologne school, and a handsome can delabrum of wrought iron. * P . Pourbus, Last Supper, with Abra ham, Melchisedech, and Elijah on the wings ; on the outside, Christ appearing to one of the Popes, and 13 good portraits of brothers of the Order of the Holy Sacrament(1559). Another picture ( 16th cent. ) represents scenes from the lives of SS. Joachim and Anna. ON THE WEST WALL : Jacob van Oost the Elder (1600-1671 ; in the 17th cent. the chief painter of Bruges, which still contains a number of his works ), Descent of the Holy Ghost, ( left) the portrait of the master, (right) thatof his son ; Jan van Hoeck , Crucifixion . To the left of the square space under the tower : Backereel, St. Carlo Borromeo administering the Eucharist to persons sick of the plague ; Van Oost , Triumph of Christ over Time and Death ; Seghers , Adoration of the Magi. Above the S. entrance door is an altar piece of the 15th cent. , in carved wood and gilded, representing the Holy Family and various saints . S. AISLE : * Dierick Bouts, erroneously ascribed to Memling, Mar tyrdom of St. Hippolytus (covered). The principal picture represents the saint about to be torn to pieces by four horses, mounted, or led by men on foot. The unfounded local 14 Route 4 . BRUGES. Cathedral . legend is that these horses were copied by Memling from the famous horses of St. Mark at Venice. The most pleasing part of the picture is the landscape in the background , which possesses greater depth and a better atmosphere than most of the landscapes of the Van Eyck school. On the left wing is a scene from the life of St. Hippolytus, on the right the donor and his wife in a beautiful landscape. The saints on the outside of the wings are by an inferior hand. Farther on in the S. aisle : Crucifixion , erroneously attributed to Gerard van der Meire (covered) . Then, Jan Maes ( 18th cent. ), SS. Agatha and Dorothea . TRANSEPT: Modern stained glass by Dobbelaer ( 1861). A heavy marble rood- loft, in the Baroque style , constructed by Corn . ver Hoeve in 1679-82 , separates the transept from the choir. The colossal statue of God the Father above it is by A. Quellin the Younger ( 1682 ). Two chapels adjoin the transept. On the right is the Chapel of St. Barbara, with a handsome door (15th cent.), and modern Gothic altar. The Chapel of the Shoemakers' Guild ( Chapelle des Cordonniers) , on the left, possesses a finely carved door dating from the latter half of the 15th cent., and con tains a carved wooden Crucifix of the 14th cent. , a winged pict ure representing the members of the guild , by Fr. Pourbus the Younger (1608 ), and several interesting brasses ( on the left,

• Walter Copman, 1387, and Martin de Visch, 1453 ; on the right,

the learned Schelewaerts, 1483, and Adr. Bave with his wife and son , 1555). The Choir contains two large marble monuments of the bishops Castillion ( d. 1753) and Susteren ( d. 1742) , both by Pulinx. High altarpiece , Resurrection by Janssens; Van Oost the Elder , Peter and John . The Gothic choir-stalls date from 1478 , but have been frequently altered . They are adorned with the armorial bearings of the Order of the Golden Fleece (Toison d'Or), which was founded at Bruges by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy and the Nether lands, on 10th Jan. , 1429, on the occasion of his marriage with Isabella, daughter of John I. of Portugal . AMBULATORY (beginning at the N. or left transept). A. Claeissens, Descent from the Cross ( winged picture ); J. van Oost , the Saviour predicting his Passion to his Mother, and His last interview with his Mother before the Passion . 1st Chapel : Handsome door of 1513 ; altar of 1517, with a beautiful painted crucifix ; on the wall to the left, two memorial tablets of copper (1387 and 1457) ; opposite, a tasteful coat -of-arms of the 16th cent. ; modern stained glass by J. Béthune. - 2nd Chapel : above the altar, * Unknown Master of the 15th Century, the Virgin and St. Bernard. By the pillar opposite : marble tomb of Jan de Schietere (d . 1575) and his wife, with a Crucifixion and figures of the married couple and their patron - saints, by G. de Witte. 3rd Chapel : Stained glass of the 16th cent. ; Jac. van Oost the Elder, The infant Saviour in the workshop of his father Joseph, painted for the guild of carpenters ; reliquary of Charles the Good, Count of Flanders (assassinated in Notre Dame. BRUGES . 4. Route . 15 1127) ; tomb of Bishop Carondelet, 1544 ; Meinderhout, Battle of Lepanto; Van Oost, Flight into Egypt. The 4th Chapel contains nothing worthy of note. - 5th Chapel, at the back of the high - altar : modern stained glass by J. Béthune ( 1861 ) ; Pietà, a gilded copper relief by P. Wolfganck . - 6th Chapel : bythe first pillar to the left, Unknown Master of the 15th Century, Mater Dolorosa , on a gold ground ; to the right, Portrait of Philippe le Bel ( son of Maximi lian I. and father of the Emp. Charles V. ) on a gold ground , master unknown (about 1505) . The inscription below styles him ‘ Philippus Stok' (a sobriquet applied to him by the citizens of Bruges in allusion to his habit of carrying a stick) , and mentions him as the founder of the ‘ Broederscap der Wee'n ' ( i.e. , the “ brotherhood of suffering '), a fraternity which still exists. In the floor two monumental brasses, the one, richly gilt and enamelled , being that of John van Couden berghe ( d. 1525), the other that of Bernhardin van den Hoeve ( d , 1517 ). - 7th Chapel : A. Janssens (d. 1631), Adoration of the Shepherds ; M. de Vos, Consecration of St. Eligius . Farther on in the ambulatory : to the left, Jan Er. Quellin , St. Simon Stock receiving the scapulary from the Virgin ; by the pillar opposite, Tomb of 1642, with statuette after Michael Angelo's Madonna; Van Baelen, Assumption. The Chambre des Marguilliers, or Churchwardens' Vestry , at the W. end of the S. aisle (p . 13) , contains several works of art for merly hung in the church itself. Among these are four small pictures by Coninxloo ( ?): the Paschal Lamb, Manna, David dancing before the Ark of the Covenant, and the Disciples at Emmaus. Also a small and fine wooden relief of the 14th cent. , representing the crowning of St. Eligius ( Sacre de St. Eloi) . The ivory crozier of St. Maclou (6th cent.) , some ancient missals, and other relics are preserved in a cabinet here.

• Notre Dame (Flem. Onze Vrouw ; Pl. B, 6), in the immediate vicinity, another Gothic structure , was originally erected on the site of an earlier chapel in the 12th cent., but in its present form dates from the 13-15th centuries. The tower, 390 ft. gh , was restored

in 1854-58, and provided with turrets at the angles in 1873. The small late-Gothic * Addition on the N. side was originally a portal, named ' Het Paradys' , and is now fitted up as a baptistery (see below). The church contains some admirable works of art. The INTERIOR (sacristan , who shows the pictures , 1/2-1 fr. for one person ; additional fee for the burial-chapel, see p . 17) is 80 yds. long , 55 yds. broad , and 70 ft. high , and consists of a nave and double aisles, without a transept. The outer aisles with their rows of chapels date from 1344 - 60 (N. side) and 1450-74 (S. side). Round the choir runs an ambulatory. NORTH AISLES. Pictures by J. Maes, J. A. Gaeremyn , and other painters of the 18th century. Also, in a niche covered with a Gothic canopy, a statue of the Virgin, dating from 1485 (?). The 16 Route 4. BRUGES. Notre Dame . Baptistery was once a doorway ( see p. 15) . The Chapelle de la Ste . Croix, at the end of the outer aisle, fitted up in 1437, contains some worthless paintings, representing the History of the Cross . WEST WALL : De Crayer, Adoration of the Infant Jesus, with numerous saints, an excellent work, 1662 ; Francken , Mary Magda lene at the feet of Christ ; Seghers , Adoration of the Magi, with saints (considered the painter's masterpiece) ; large winged picture, re presenting in the middle the Crucifixion , and on the wings the Bearing of the Cross, the Crown of Thorns, the Descent from the Cross, and Christ in Hades, begun by B. van Orley , and restored by Pourbus the Younger in 1589 after the iconoclastic outrages . South AISLES . 3rd Chapel : Ant. Claeissens (?), Virgin and Child in a landscape, with portraits of the donor Nic. van Thienen and his wife, and the Annunciation in grisaille on the wings ; to the right, a triptych of the Virgin, Child, and an angel, with por traits of Don Diego de Villega, his wife and children , by an un known painter, 1579. —4th Chapel : * P. Pourbus, Transfiguration, with portraits of the donor Ans. de Boodt and his wife, along with their patron- saints, 1573 (the central picture appears to be older than the rest and has been ascribed to Jan Mostert, 1480) ; Van Oost , The Angel warning Joseph and Mary to flee to Egypt. Adjoining the confessional : Herri met de Bles, Annunciation, and Adoration of the Magi, on a gold ground. Farther on, to the right, Copy of Van Dyck's Crucifixion ; tomb of Adrian van Haves kerke ; above, P. Pourbus, Last Supper, 1562. Over the altar , in the old Chapel of the Host, in a black marble niche , stands a small **Statue of the Virgin and Child , a life - size marble group of exquisite beauty, ascribed to Michael Angelo, pro bably identical with the statue ordered by Peter Moscron, a mer chant of Bruges, and erroneously spoken of by Vasari as a bronze work. It would therefore belong to the great master's early period , and date from about 1503. The composition is undoubtedly by Michael An gelo , but the execution , which is delicately and softly rounded, was probably entrusted to one of his pupils . The life -size study for the head of the Madonna, by Michael Angelo's own hand, is in the S. Kensington Museum. Horace Walpole, who was a great admirer of art, is said to have offered 30,000 fl. for the statue. The French carried it off to Paris during the Revolution . Nave. Pulpit of 1743, with reliefs and figures (Wisdom standing on the terrestrial globe) . The nave is separated from the choir by a wooden rood - loft of 1722, above which is a Crucifix datingfrom 1594. CHOIR. The armorial bearings above the choir-stalls serve as a memento of the eleventh Chapter of the Order of the Golden Fleece, held here in 1468. High- altar of the 18th century. In the AMBULATORY, beginning by the above -named Chapel of the Host : J. van Oost the Elder , St. Rosalia , after Van Dyck's painting in the Belvedere at Vienna. 7 រ Notre Dame. BRUGES. 4. Route. 17 Then in a closed chapel to the right (1 person 1 fr.; for a party 1/2 fr. each ) the * Tombs of Charles the Bold (d . 1477), Duke of Burgundy, and his daughter Mary (d. 1482) , wife of the Emp. Maximilian, the last scions of the House of Burgundy and of the native princes of the S. Netherlands. The life- size recumbent figures of the duke and his daughter , in bronze, richly gilded, repose on marble sarcophagi; at the sides are the enamelled armorial bearings of the duchies, counties, and estates which the princess, the richest heiress of that age, brought to the House of Austria on her marriage with Maximilian. The tomb of the Princess, in the Gothic style, and by far the more valuable asa work of art, was executed by Pieter de Beckere of Brussels in 1495-1502, aided by five or six assistants. The Duke's tomb , an imitation of the other , was erected in 1558 by Philip II ., a descendant of Charles the Bold, who is said to have paid the sculptor Jongelincx of Antwerp the then very large sum of 24,395 f1. The Emp. Charles V. caused the remains of the duke, his great-grandfather, to be conveyed hither from Nancy. The tomb of Charles bears his motto : “ Je l'ay empris, bien en aviengne !' ( ' I have made the venture ; may it prosper ! " ) . The sumptuousness of these tombs, the historical associations attaching to the illustrious father and daughter, and the touching story of the death of the latter in consequence of a fall from her horse while hunting with her husband near Bruges, all combine to render these monuments deeply interesting. They were first erected in the choir, and only since 1816 have they stood in this chapel, which was originally dedicated to P. Lanchals, unjustly beheaded in 1488 , whose tombstone is still to be seen to the right of the entrance. On the E.wall : * Unknown Master ( according to Waagen by Jan Mostert), The Mourning Mary, surrounded by seven small repre sentations of her Seven Sorrows. On the W. wall ; to the right, Roger van der Weyden ( ?), Triptych, Entombment, with St. Mary Magdalene on the left. the Virgin on the right, and on the outside the donors (members of the Danauder family) and saints ; to the left, two wings of an altar, presented by the Omillard family, Pourbus the painter, with his family, by himself. The former Chapel of the Virgin, behind the high-altar , gaud ily ornamented, with an altar by L. Blanchaert (1863) and stained glass by J. Béthune, now contains the Host. Farther on , above, is a richly-carved Gothic pew in oak , of 1474, formerly the property of the family of Van der Gruuthuyse, with whose house (see below), it was connected by a passage . Then, Jac . van Oost, Triumph of the Church , 1652 ; De Crayer (?) , St. Thomas Aquinas released from prison by two angels ; under it (covered) , Claeissens, Foundation of the church of St. Maria Maggiore at Rome ; opposite, Van Oost the Elder, Calling of Matthew (1640) ; Caravaggio, Christ at Emmaus ( 1604 ). Opposite is the Chapel of the Trinity, founded by the Breidel family, long used as a warehouse but restored since 1868. The *Gruuthuyse Palace (see above) , adjoining the church on the E. , with one of the finest gable -façades in Bruges , is at present being prepared for the reception of the Museum (p. 20) . The por tion already completed contains a valuable collection of old lace (adm. 50 c. ), presented to the town by the Baroness Liedt, whose bust, by H. Pickery, adorns the hall. BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. 2 18 Route 4 . BRUGES. St. John's Hospital. A gateway (at which visitors ring on the right) opposite the W. side of Notre Dame leads to the * Hospital of St. John (Pl . B, 6) , which has existed for upwards of five centuries , and where the sick are attended by Sisters of Charity . The interesting sculp tures above the walled - up gateway to the left of the entrance date from the 13th century . Strangers are admitted on week -days, 9-12 and 1-6 (in winter till 4) , on Sun. and holidays 3-5 or 4 (fee 1 fr . ) . ( Tickets admitting to this hospital, the Hospice de la Potterie, and the Hospices Civils may be obtained here for 11/2 fr .). The hospital contains a number of **Pictures by Memling, which alone would amply repay a visit to Bruges (comp. Introd. , p. xli). These are preserved in a building in the court, which was formerly the chapter -room . In the centre, on a rotatory pedestal, is the ** Châsse of St. Ursula , a reliquary of Gothic design, the scenes painted on which form Memling's finest work. It is said to have been ordered by the Hospital in 1480, and completed in 1486. " The shrine of St. Ursula is a Gothic chapel in miniature, its long sides being divided into archings containing six episodes, its cover adorn ed with six medallions ; one incident fills each of the gables. In the medallions are the coronation of the Virgin , the glory of St. Ursula, and four angels ; on the gables, St. Ursula shelters the band of maidens under her cloak, and the Virgin in a porch is worshipped by two hospital nuns. Of the six designs on the long sides, one represents the fleet arriving at Cologne , where Ursula prepares to land with her companions. We re cognize the shape of the old cathedral , the steeples of several chur ches, and one of the city towers , most of them true to nature but not in their proper places ; in one of the distant houses Ursula sees the vision of the Pope bidding her to visit Rome. Another scene is laid on the quays of Bâle, where St. Ursula has taken to the shore, whilst a part of her suite awaits its turn to disembark . A third shows the Pope sur rounded by his court in the porch of a church awaiting St. Ursula who kneels on the steps leading up to the portal. In a gallery close by, the British neophytes are baptised and confessed , or partake of the Holy Communion . The Pope, in the fourth picture, accompanies the maidens on their return to Bâle ; he sits with his cardinals in the vessel which carries St. Ursula, whilst the suite of both still winds through the passes leading from the Alps. On the fifth panel, the background is a camp on the Rhine shore , where boats have landed some of their living freight, and others approach with crowded loads ; the knights and virgins are set upon by soldiers and are vainly defended by their steel- clad cham pions . The sixth picture is that in which St. Ursula is seen in a passive attitude of prayer , awaiting the arrow of a executioner ; the men about her, armed in proof, or shrouded in mantles , are spectators or actors in the massacre of the saint's companions; and the distance is filled with tents behind which the Kölner Dom rears its solid walls' . The freedom and grace with which these scenes are composed are partly due to the facility with which Memling treated groups and figures of small proportions, but they tell of progress in the art of distribution and arrangement. It would be difficult to select any picture of the Flemish school in which the ' dramatis personæ are more naturally put together than they are in the shrine of St. Ursula , nor is there a single panel in the reliquary that has not the charm of rich and well-contrasted colour. A rich fund of life and grace is revealed in shapes of symmetrical proportions or slender make and attitudes of becoming elegance. Nothing is more striking than the minuteness of the painter's touch , or the per fect mastery of his finish '. Crowe and Cavalcaselle. The Early Flemish Painters. 1872. St. John's Hospital. BRUGES. A. Route. 19 A second picture by Memling, with a doubtless later inscription in which the painter is named Hemling, is the ' Marriage of St. Catharine' (No. 1) , a winged picture. “ The Virgin sits on a throne in a rich church - porch ; angels hold a crown above her ; the infant on her lap bends to give a ring to the bride kneeling in regal raiment at his feet ; to the left and right, the Baptist, Evangelist , and St. Barbara stand gravely in attendance; an angel plays on an organ ; another holds a missal. Close behind St. Barbara , a monk of the order of St. Augustin contemplates the scene ; and in a landscape watered by a river the Baptist prays to God, preaches to a crowd, wends his way to the place of execution, and burns – a headless trunk - at the stake ; elsewhere, St. John Evangelist seethes in boiling oil . On the left wing of the triptych the daughter of Herodias receives the Baptist's head , and dances before Herod . On the right wing St. John Evangelist is seated and looks towards heaven, preparing to note the vision before him . He sees the king of kings, the elders, the lamps of the Apocalypse, the lamb, the symbols of the Evangelist, and Death on the pale horse, bursting with his three companions on the men who flee ; on the placid surface of the sea, the vision is reflected and forms a grand and imposing picture . On the outer face of the wings, Jacques de Keuninck , treasurer, Antoine Seghers , director , Agnes Cazembrood , superior , and Claire van Hultem, a nun of the hospital, are depicted under the protection of their patron saints .' - Ibid . By the entrance is a smaller winged picture (No.3) by Memling, also with a forged inscription, the * Epiphany , representing the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in the Temple, painted in 1479, and the best example of the master's early manner ( under glass) . The thin, bearded man looking in at the window , with the cap which is still worn by the convalescents of the hospital, is said to be a portrait of the master himself. To the right, Brother Jan Floreins van der Ryst, the donor , kneeling. On the inside of the shutters , the Nativity, and Presentation in the Temple ; ontside , John the Baptist and St. Veronica . In this picture the influence of Roger van der Weyden, Memling's teacher, is most distinctly visible , but the heads are more delicate and pleasing, and the execution bolder. The picture has unfortunately been much injured by cleaning. A small picture (No. 4 ; under glass ; at the fourth window) , a diptych , painted in 1487, represents the Virgin with a red mantle, offering an apple to the Child ; on the other wing the donor, Martin van Newenhowen . There is no more interesting specimen of portrait by. Memling ex tant than this , none more characteristic for the large fair oval of the Madonna's face, or for that peculiar clearness which is 80 surely pro duced by scant'shadow and spacious, even light' . Crowe & Cavalcaselle. Another picture by Memling (No. 5) represents a female Bust, with high cap and white veil , styled by the modern inscription ' Sibylla Sambetha' . An Entombment (No. 6 ; by the second window ), with portrait of the donor A. Reins , and SS. Adrian , Barbara, Wilgefortis, and Mary of Egypt on the wings (the last two on the outside) , also some times attributed to Memling, but probably by an inferior contempo rary, possesses far less life and richness of colouring than the other pictures. - 2 * 20 Route. 4. BRUGES. Museum . There are also several good pictures by the two Van Oosts ( a Philosopher, No. 11 , is a masterpiece of the Elder), a Madonna , an old copy after Van Dyck ( No. 29 ; above the door), portraits by Pourbus (Nos. 33, 34 ; below, to the right of the door), the Miracu lous Draught of Fishes by D. Teniers the Younger (No. 32), the Good Samaritan by Nic. Maes (No. 39 ; beside No. 1), several works by unknown masters of the 15-16th cent., etc. The Hospital itself ( containing 240 beds) is well worthy of a visit . The large, open hall , divided by partitions and used as a store, is interesting from having retained its mediæval aspect unchanged . From the Hospital the Rue Ste. Catherine leads S. to No. 84, the * Museum (Pl . B , 7), which contains ( temporarily) the pictures be longing to the Académie des Beaux-Arts, a collection of great interest to the student of early Flemish art. (Critical catalogue by James Weale, 2 fr .) The entrance is through the old chapel (admission on Sundays gratis, 11-1 o'clock ; at other times 1/2 fr.). On the wall opposite the entrance: 15. Jean Prévost ( d . 1529), The Last Judgment, a very impressive picture, notwithstanding several eccentricities . In the upper part the heads are very beautiful and varied . Above, 16. J. van den Coornhuuse, Copy of the last ( with alterations ). - To the right, 6 , 7. Ge rard David , The sentence of Cambyses against the unjust judge Sisamnes. The first picture represents the bribery in the background, and the sen tence of the king in the foreground ; the second the executioners flaying Sisamnes. Both pictures (completed in 1498) are boldly painted, with a brownish tone of colouring , and admirably finished. The composition is well conceived on the whole , and the backgrounds are excellent. Most of the heads exhibit a marked individuality ,and the hands are drawn with perfect accuracy . *5. Gerard David , Triptych , formerly ascribed to Memling. In the central picture the Baptism of Christ , on the left wing the donor Jean des Trompes and his son , with their patron St. John the Evangelist ; on the right wing Elizabeth van der Meersch , the first wife of thedonor, with her four daughters , under the protection of St. Elizabeth of Hungary. On the outsides of the wings are the Madonna and Magdalen Cordier, the donor's second wife, with her infant daughter and her patron -saint. This picture shows the great skill of the master in landscape-painting. The background of the inner pictures , with its rich gradation and varied accessories, is remarkably pleasing. The work was executed about the year 1507. * 1. Jan van Eyck , Madonna with the Infant Christ , St. Donatian and St. George , and the donor Canon George de Pala. This picture is strongly realistić . The Madonna is the ugliest ever painted by Van Eyck , the Child , with its aged expression (meant to indicate the presence of Deity ?), is ' lean and unattractive, and St. George has much the appearance of a rude common soldier. The por trait of the donor, however, is masterly , and St. Donatian is a dignified personage. The figures are two-thirds of life-size, being the largest which the master is known to have painted. - 2. Jan van Eyck, Portrait of his wife, 1439 , evidently unflattered , but admirably finished , and faithful in every detail. – 3. After Jan van Eyck, Head of Christ, with the spurious inscription , ‘ Joh. de Eyck inventor 1420' , a reduced copy of the work in the museum at Berlin . -- *4. Memling, Triptych. In the central picture is St. Christopher, with a blue garment and ample red cloak, looking up with astonishment at the Infant Christ sitting on his shoulders, as if unableto comprehend the continual increase of his burden . In a grotto is the hermit, leaning on a stick , with a lantern in his hand. To the left is St. Maurusreading, to the right St. Egidius with the doe. The ground is strewn with violets and other flowers. On the left wing is the donor with his five sons and his patron St. William , on the right wing his Belfry. BRUGES. 4. Route. 21 wife with ten daughters and St. Barbara. On the outside are St. John the Baptist and St. George , in grisaille. This picture occupies a high rank among Memling's works. The heads of the three saints in the central picture are of great beauty, and the reflection of the rocky bank in the water is admirably rendered. The picture has unfortunately been much injured by the removal of the original varnish . St. George is probably by a different hand. 12. Unknown Master of Brabant (formerly ascribed to Schooreel) , Death of the Virgin (copy in the cathedral) . Most of the back-wall is occupied by paintings by P. Pourbus of Gouda, who early emigrated to Bruges and died there in 1584. No. 19. Last Judgment (1551); 20. Descent from the Cross, with wings in grisaille ( 1570 ) ; 21 22. Portraits ( 1551). Abo 25. Ant. Claeis or Cla ns , Banquet ( 1574 ); 23. Ascribed to P. Claeis, Allegorical representation of the Treaty of Tournai in 1584 (with portraits ). Entrance-wall : Above, 41. J. van Oost the Elder, Augustine washing the feet of Christ (in the guise of a pilgrim ) ; 42. St. Anthony of Padua and the Holy Child ; 43. St. Anthony resuscitating a dead man ; 44, 45. Portrait of an Arquebusier ; 46. Theologian dictating to his amanuensis. All these works deserve attention, especially the last . On the same wall, 31, 33. Jan van Goyen, Sea - pieces. In the doorway leading to the modern pictures,

• 8. Gerard David, two charming small coloured drawings on parchment : Preaching of John the Baptist and the Baptism of Christ.

A short distance from the Museum the Rue Neuve de Gand di verges to the left ( E.) from the Rue Ste. Catherine. No. 100 in this street (Pl. C , ) is the Musée des Hospices Civils ( Museum der Burgerlijke Godshuizen ). Admission daily except Sat. , week days 10-12 and 2-5 or 4, Sun. 11-1 , 50c . The collection includes early Flemish paintings, antique furniture, stained glass, painted statuettes, engraved metal caskets , pottery, etc. Among the most interesting exhibits are : in the large glass -case, five specimens of early Chinese porcelain ; diptych (dated 1522 ), with portrait of a brother of the Hospice of St. John ; *Madonna in painted ivory, from the end of the 13th cent. ; silver- gilt tankard (17th cent. ) ; altar -cross (15th cent. ). In the glass -case : fine carved casket,painted and gilded , of the 15th cent. ; bugle -horn (13th cent. ) . At the centre -window , enamelled panes of glass ( 15th cent.). The street from the station to the town passes a small open space planted with trees, and adorned with a poor Statue of Simon Stevin ( Pl. 11 ; B, 5), the inventor of the decimal system ( d. 1635), and leads to the GRANDE PLACE ( Pl. B, C, 5 ) , or market-place. In the centre stands a colossal *Monument to Jan Breidel and Pieter de Coninc, guild -masters and leaders of the citizens of Bruges in the ' Battle of the Spurs’ at Courtrai ( p. 57) ; the monument, erected in 1887, is by Devigne . The S. side of the square is occupied by the Halles, a large building erected in the 13th and 14th centuries, and partly altered in 1561-66 from designs by Peter Diericx . The building forms a rectangle , 48 yds . broad and 93 yds . deep. The E. wing, originally intended for a cloth - hall, now contains the mu nicipal offices; the other has been used as a meat-market since 1819. The Belfry ( Tour des Halles, or Grande Tour), begun in 1291 and finished at the end of the 14th cent. , 352 ft . in height, rises in the centre of the façade and leans slightly towards the S.E. It consists of two massive square stories , flanked with corner-turrets, and sur 22 Route . 4 . BRUGES. Church of St. Jacques. ។ a mounted by a lofty octagon , which was erected in 1393-96. The summit commands a very extensive view. The *Chimes, dating from 1748, are heard to full advantage on Wed. , Sat. , & Sun. ,, 111.15-12 . (Entrance in thecourt to the right, upstairs; ring the bell in the gallery ; fee 25 c . ) In the court to the left is the entrance to an in teresting Collection of Antiquities , chiefly of local origin , exhibited in a series of rooms on the ground- floor (Sun. 11-1, free; on other days , 10-4, on application to the concierge , fee 50 c. , for 3 pers . 1 fr. ). On the E. side of the market- place are the handsome new Gothic Government Buildings . On the W. side of the market-place , at the corner of the Rue St. Amand, is a house formerly belonging to the Bouckhout family , a handsome old building in the mediæval style , adorned with a gilded lion . According to a popular but probably erroneous tradition , it was occupied for a time by Charles II. of England, while living here in exile about the middle of the 17th century. The citizens of Bruges conferred upon him a title of royalty by creating him ‘ King of the Guild of Archers' . In the opposite house , called the Cranenburg (Pl . 4 ; B, 5) , now a tavern , the citizens of Bruges kept the German King Maximilian , the last of the knights ' , prisoner during twelve days, in the year 1488, on account of his refusal to concede the guardianship of his son Philip , heir to the crown of the Netherlands, to the king of France . The Pope threatened them with excommunication , and the Imperial army was directed to march against the city, notwith standing which Maximilian was not liberated until , in the presence of the guilds and the townspeople , he had solemnly sworn to re nounce his claim to the guardianship of his son , to respect the lib erties of Bruges, and to forget the affront he had received . A few weeks later, however, he was released from his oath by a congress of Princes convened at Malines by his father, the Emp. Frederick III . The Rue St. Jacques, with the Conservatory of Music, and the Halle au Beurre or Boterhuis (on the right) with other fine brick buildings, leads from the N.W. corner of the market-place to the Church of St. Jacques (Pl . B, 4), a late- Gothic brick building, erected in 1457-1518, which contains several objects of interest . Of the numerous pictures of the 16th , 17th , and 18th centuries , ar ranged to some extent in rows as in a picture- gallery, and provided with the names of the artists and the dates , we can only specify a few. The painters mostly belong to Bruges ( L. de Deyster, d. 1711 ; Jos. van den Kerckhove, d. 1724 , among others) . LEFT AISLE. 1st Chapel : Fine chased copper monumental tablets of Spanish families , one of which , with the date 1461, is to the memory of Catherine, daughter of Coland d'Ault, re presented between her brother and her guardian angel ; another, dating from 1577, is to the memory of Don Francisco de Lapuebla and his wife, and is very elaborately execnted ; a third, of date 1615, is in memory of Don Pedro de Valencia and his wife. 2nd Chapel : Lancelot Blondeel, Mar tyrdom of Ss . Cosmas and Damianus, painted in 1523 for the guild of Barber- Surgeons; P. Pourbus, The Seven Woes of the Virgin , 1556. At the end of the left aisle : * fac. van Oost the Elder , Presentation in the Temple. On the High ALTAR : J. van Bockhorst ' ( d. 1668), Adoration Hôtel de Ville. BRUGES. 4. Route. 23 of the Magi. At the end of the Right AISLE : to the right, Madonna, with the donors , by P. Pourbus, 1556 ; also a small Chapel, with poly chrome ornamentation ( restored in 1876), containing the tomb of Ferry de Gios , Seigneur de Oyenghem , Nieuwenlande, etc. (d . 1544 ) and his two wives (the recumbent figure of the second wife is particularly beautiful); on the small altar in this chapel is a fine glazed terracotta of the school of Della Robbia , representing Mary and the Child encircled with a chaplet of fruits . - The pulpit, rood - lofts, and choir - stalls were put up in the latter part of the 17th century. The Cour des PRINCES ( P1. 3 ; B, 4 ), the ancient palace of the Counts of Flanders, where the nuptials of Charles the Bold with Margaret of York were celebrated in 1468, and where Philippe le Bel , father of Char les V. , was born , has entirely disappeared, with the exception of a few fragments within a private house . From the Rue St. Jacques farther N. the Rue des Baudets leads to the well- preserved Porte d'Ostende (Pl. B , 2). - In the neigh bouring Rue St. Georges is the Normal School for Boys (Pl. C, 3) , a handsome modern Gothic building. To the E. of the market-place , in the adjacent Place du Bourg (Pl . C, 5 ), is the * Hôtel de Ville (Pl. 5) , an elegant Gothic struc ture with six turrets, three in front and three at the back , be gun about 1376 by Jan Rongiers (the façade was probably finished in 1387 ), and restored in 1854-1871. The 48 niches in the prin cipal façade, between the windows, are filled with statues of Counts of Flanders , which replace those destroyed by the French sans culottes in 1792. The Counts of Flanders, on their accession to the throne , used to show themselves to the people from one of the win dows or balconies in front of this building, and swear to maintain the privileges of the city (p . 12) . INTERIOR. A battle -piece in the hall below ( Finding of the body of Charles the Bold after the Battle of Nancy , in 1477) , by H. Dobbelaare, was purchased for Bruges by the citizens with the aid of the government. The council-chambers contain some modern pictures and a few objects dating from the 17th cent . (ink -stands, the silver chain of the burgomaster's band-bell ). Upstairs, in the vestibule , are representations of the principal squares of the town;also a large picture by Dobbelaare, representing the Works of Charity. The Great Hall, which occupies almost the entire length of the building, is worthy of a visit on account of its fine Gothic roof of pendent wood- work, dating from the 14th century. Adjoining the Hôtel de Ville on the left is the * Maison de l'An cien Greffe (P1 . 14) , or old municipal record office, a Renaissance edifice built by J. Wallot in 1534-37 , recently restored and pro fusely adorned with gilding and statues ; it is now a court of law. The carved doors of the court-room , executed by Ant. Lambronck in 1544 , were formerly in the cathedral . The vaulted passage below the Ancien Greffe emerges on the bank of a canal, whence a good view is obtained of the back of the Palais de Justice (p. 25) , the Hôtel de Ville, and the towers of St. Sauveur and Notre Dame. On the other side of the canal is the Fish Market. In the corner, adjoining the Hôtel de Ville on the right, is the church of St. Basile , usually called * Chapelle du Saint - Sang (Pl . 13 ; C, 5) , a small and elegant church of two stories , the lower of which dates from 1150, the upper probably from the 15th cent. ; 7 24 Route 4 . BRUGES. Chap. du St. Sang. the portal and staircase , constructed in 1529-33>, in the richest Flamboyant style , and seriously damaged by the sansculottes during the Revolution , were handsomely restored in 1829-39. The chapel derives its appellation from some drops of the blood of the Saviour, which Theodoric of Alsace, Count of Flanders (p . 12 ), is said to have brought from the Holy Land in 1149, and to have presented to the city. The sacristan lives at No. 2 Rue de Laine Aveugle, through the arched passage , on the right side. The LOWER CHAPEL (entrance at the corner), founded by Theo doric of Alsace and Sibylla of Anjou, and consecrated in 1150, con sists of nave and aisles , with choir of the same breadth as the nave, and rests on low round pillars . The carved altar dates from 1536 . The UPPER CHAPEL is reached from the Place by the staircase mentioned above (open free Sun. 7-9 , Frid. 6-12 , fee at other times 50 c . ) ; it has no aisles. The stained- glass windows in the vestibule date from the 16th century . The coloured decorations of the chapel, recently restored, are rich but somewhat gaudy. The windows, comprising portraits of the Burgundian princes down to Maria Theresa and Francis I. , were executed in 1845-47 from old designs. The large W. window , representing the history of the Passion and the conveyance of the Holy Blood to Bruges, was executed by Capronnier from designs by Jean Béthune , 1856 . The window with SS. Longinus and Veronica is by Jean Béthune. The polychrome decoration of the choir was executed in 1856 from designs by T. H. King, in four compartments . The altar, a specimen of modern sculpture in the Gothic style, was executed by Michael Abbeloos from drawings by Jean Béthune . The pulpit consists of a half - globe, resting on clouds , with the equator, meridian , and a few geographical names . On the wall to the left of the entrance : piece of lace of 1684 (under glass); old Flemish painting of the 15th cent. representing Count Theodoric receiving the Holy Blood ' from Baldwin III . of Flanders, King of Jerusalem (?) ; other pictures of little value. In the opposite wall are three arches opening on to a Chapel , where the Holy Blood is exposed to view. Above the arches : De Crayer, Pietà ; to the right, an early- Flemish winged painting of the Crucifixion, and others. The marble altar of the chapel , bear ing a massive silver crucifix , dates from the 17th cent. ; the pulpit , where the Holy Blood is exhibited every Friday from 6 to 11.30 a.m. , was constructed in 1866. To the right and left are good portraits of members of the Brotherhood of the Holy Blood , painted by P. Pourbus (1556) . Farther on is a winged picture of the early-Flemish school, containing a vast number of figures, and portraying the Bearing of the Cross , the Crucifixion , and the Resurrection . The most important picture in the church , however, is the * De scent from the Cross, a winged picture by Gerard David . The central scene represents the body of Christ supported by the aged Nicodemus on the right. Mary , with her hands folded, kneels before Palais de Justice . BRUGES. 4. Route. 25 1 sance her son , supported by St. John , who at the same time raises the left arm of Christ. On his right are Mary Salome and, in the corner, a man with a box of ointment. On the wings are Mary Magdalene with Cleo phas , and Joseph of Arimathæa with an unknown man . In the back ground is Mt. Calvary. The picture was probably painted late in life by the master, whose merit has only recently been discovered , and exhibits a brownish tone, attributable to the influence of Quinten Massys. Above the exit : J. van Oost the Elder, Descent from the Cross . The Sacristy contains a silver- gilt reliquary ( 4 ft . 3 in . high, 2 ft . broad) , studded with gems , which was made in 1617 by Jean Crabbe, and presented to the church by Archduke Albert and his wife Isabella ; the miniature crown resting on it is said to have been a gift from Princess Mary of Burgundy (p. 17), but is doubt less nearly two centuries later in date . On the N. side of the Hôtel de Ville is the Palais de Justice (Pl . C, 5 ; 1722-27), formerly the town-hall of the Franc de Bruges, or district of the ' Buitenpoorters', i.e. , inhabitants “ outside the gate ', who were not subject to the jurisdiction of the city . It occupies part of the site of an old palace of the Counts of Flanders, which was presented by Philippe le Bel to the ' Franc de Bruges '. The first building, erected in 1520-1608, was destroyed by fire . The Court Room (Chambre Echevinale; custodian in the quadrangle, 1/2 fr .) belongs to the original edifice. It contains a magnificent Renais * Chimney- Piece , occupying almost the entire side of the room , executed in 1529-31 by Guyot de Beaugrant , probably to commemorate the battle of Pavia , and the peace of Cambrai, by which France was obliged to recognise the independence of Flanders. The lower part con sists of black marble ; the upper , which is of carved oak , was exe cuted from designs by the painter Lancelot Blondeel, and restored in 1850 by the sculptor Geerts. The statues , finely carved and nearly life size, represent CharlesV. ( in the centre) , his paternal ancestors Mary of Burgundy and Maximilian of Austria on the left , and his maternal an cestors Ferdinand of Aragon and Isabella of Castile on the right of the spectator ; to the right and left of Charles are small medallions, held aloft by children , representing his parents Philippe le Bel and Johanna of Castile; also the armorial bearings of Burgundy , Spain , etc.; the whole decorated with genii and foliage. On the frieze of the chimney piece proper are four reliefs in white marble, of the same period , repre senting the history of Susanna. The tapestry on the walls was manufac tured at Ingelmünster (p . 33) in 1850 , in imitation of the original , of which portions were found in the cellar. Crossing the Place adjacent to the Place du Bourg, which is planted with horse- chestnuts, traversing the Burgstraat, and pro ceeding a little farther in the same direction , we reach the small Place Jean van Eyck (Pl. C, 4 ), surrounded by interesting mediæval buildings , and bounded on the E. by a canal . The bronze statue of Jan van Eyck, by Pickery, was erected in 1878. On the W. side of the Place is the Academy of Arts and on the N. the Municipal Library. The *Municipal Library ( Pl . 2 ; C, 4) , which is now established in the ancient Tonlieu , or custom -house of 1477 (restored in 1878) , contains 15,000 vols., numerous interesting old MSS., many of them with miniatures, missals of the 13-14th cent. , and the firs books printed by Colard Mansion, the printer of Bruges ( 1475-84 ). It is open daily, 10-1 and 4-7, Sat. , Sun. , and holidays excepted. > 26 Route 4 . BRUGES Academy. . The Académie des Beaux Arts (Pl . C , 4) was founded in 1719 by the painters Jos. van den Kerckhove , J. B. Erregouts, Marc Duvenede, and Josse Aerschoot, specimens of whose works are frequently encountered in Bruges. The building, in the Gothic style of the 14th cent.,is called DePoorters Loodze (i. e ., Citizens' Lodge, “poorters’, those who live within the ' poort' or gate), and was formerly an assembly- hall for the townspeople ; it was entirely remodelled in 1755. The façade is in course of being decorated with statues by sculptors of Bruges. The pictures belonging to the Academy are at present exhibited in the Museum (p . 20) . — To the W., opposite the end of the Rue de l'Academie in the Place des Oeufs, is the ancient Merchant-House of the Genoese (p . 12), a well-preserved Gothic building of 1399. Over the door are St. George and five coats of arms ; adjoining the inscription . Beneath is a café. Near the Academy, to the N.W., is the Marché du Mercredi, now called Place de Memling ( Pl. C, 4), where a Statue of Memling ( Pl. 10) in marble, by Pickery, was erected in 1871. From the Rue de la Cour de Gand, leading to the N.E. from the Place de Memling, the Quai Long diverges to the left. A short side- street on the left of the quay brings us to the church of St. Gilles ( Pl. C, D, 3) , an early Gothic edifice with three gables , begun in 1240 and enlarged in the 15th century. The interior, recently skilfully restored , has timber - vaulting and modern stained glass ; in the aisles are antique polychromatic reliefs of the Stations of the Cross, and paintings by J. van Oost the Elder, N. Maes, etc. We return to the Quai Long, follow it to the N. , and cross the first bridge to reach the Hospice'de la Potterie (Pl. E, 2 ; entrance No. F 79, Quai de la Potterie) , an asylum for old women, established about 1164. Adm.50 c. , daily except Sat. , week- days 2-5 or 4, Sun. 10-12;; comp. p . 18 . The hospice containg old paintings , particularly a good picture by Peter Claeissens , representing Mary and the Child beside a tree ( 'Van't Boontje'), with God the Father, and the Holy Ghost in the form ( f a dove at the top ( 1608 ). Also drawings ogcribed to the brothers Van Eyck and their sister Margaret; fine miniatures, old Flemish tapestry ( 15-17th cent. ) ; fine antique furniture, including two chests ( 14th and 15th cent. ) and a bed of the 17th century. - In the chapel, reading desk of coloured marl le ( 1645 ). Opposite the Pont de la Paille ( Pl. D, 4), No. 23, is the house of Dr. de Meyer, who possesses a good collection of Dutch and Flemish pictures , which he is always ready to show to lovers of art at a day's notice. The forenoon is the time which best suits Dr. de Meyer. The house is tastefully fitted up in the rococo style. The Church of St. Anna ( Pl . D, 4) was reconstructed in the Renaissance style in 1607-12 . The church , which is destitute of aisles, has a carved wooden panelling of 1699 ; pulpit of 1675 ; rood loft of 1642; and pictures by the elder Van Oost and L. de Deyster. The Eglise de Jérusalem ( Pl. D, 4 ; entrance from the back , Rue de la Balle, first door to the right), a small and simple late i Ste . Madeleine . BRUGES. 4. Route 27 7 Gothic brick edifice of the middle of the 15th cent . , contains below the high-choir an imitation of the Holy Sepulcbre , founded by Messire Anselm Adornes’ , burgomaster of Bruges, who twice visited Jerusalem with a view to ensure the resemblance . The nave con tains a bronze monument to him ( d . 1483) and his wife ( d. 1463 ). The stained glass dates from the 15-16th centuries . In the vicinity, at the E. end of the town , is the Couvent des Dames Anglaises (Pl . E, 4) , an English nunnery, with which an excellent school is connected . The church of the convent, a Re naisance structure with a dome, was built by Pulinx in 1736-39, and contains an altar, executed at Rome, and composed of rare Per sian and Egyptian marbles. To the right, a little farther on in the same street, is the handsome late-Gothic guild -house of the Arque busiers of St. Sebastian (Pl . E, 4 ), with a slender octagonal tower, containing portraits from the middle of the 17th cent. downwards, and various antiquities . Charles II. of England (p . 22) and the Emp. Maximilian were both members of the guild. Close by are the ramparts , on which rise several windmills, and the well - preserved Kruispoort (Porte Ste. Croix ; Pl . E, 5) . The Rue Sauvée leads to the S. from the fish -market to the at tractive Park , with a band- stand. To the left is the Prison (Maison de Sureté). At the S. end is the handsome Gothic church of Ste . Ma deleine, recently restored and adorned with polychrome. In the nave ( with timber -roof ), above, a large wocden crucifix , with Mary and John ; in the aisles painted reliefs of the Stations of the Cross . The Béguinage (Pl. A ; 6 , 7 ), at the S.W. end of the town, found ed in the 13th cent., is inferior to that of Ghent ( p . 47) . The entrance is in the right angle of the Place de la Vigne ; we cross a bridge and pass through a gateway of 1776. The low, whitewashed houses surround a court shaded by lofty trees. The Church , dedi cated to St. Elisabeth , was founded in 1245 and rebuilt in 1605 ; the altarpiece is by the elder Van Oost, and there is an Assumption by T. Boeyermans in the N. aisle (1676). Dante ( Inferno xv. , 4-6) compares the barrier which sepa rates the river of tears from the desert, with the embankments which the Flemings have thrown up between Gadzand (p. 9) and Bruges, to protect the city against the encroachments of the sea : Quale i Fiamminghi tra Gazzante e Bruggia , Temendo il fiotto che inver lor s'avventa, Fanno lo schermo, perchè ' l mar si fuggia' . Damme, a village 1 hr. N.E. of Bruges, on the canal leading to Sluis (comp . p . 9 ), was once a considerable and fortified seaport, but has been in à state of decadence since the sea began to retire from it in the 15th cen tury. The picturesque Halles were built in 1464-68, and restored with little success in 1860; in front of thebuilding is a statue of the Flemish poet Jacob de Coster van Maerlant (13th cent.), by Pickery ( 1860). The church of Notre Dame, founded in 1180, but never completed , and much altered at later periods, and the Hospital of St. John also merit inspection. There is a good Estaminet in the late - Gothic Hôtel de Ville , which h: s a notice able portal, 28 5. The Railways of S.W. Flanders. These lines all belong to private companies, and pass so many small stations that the speed of the trains is extremely slow . The flat, agricul tural district traversed by them presents the usual Flemish characteristics . The towns of this part of Flanders are now dull and lifeless, but more than one of them has had a stirring past. Every lover of art will find much to interest him in Ypres , and the rood -loft of Diksmuide ( p . 31 ), the cloth - hall of Nieuport ( p . 31), and various edifices of Furnes ( p. 31) also deserve a visit . 1. From OSTEND TO YPRES, 35 M. , railway in 2 hrs . ( fares 4 fr . 35, 3 fr. 25 , 2 fr . 20 c. ) . Stations : Snaeskerke, Ghistelles (Hôtel de l'Europe; often visited by strangers from Ostend) , Moere, Eerneghem , Ichteghem , and Wynendaele (see below ). 15 M. Thourout, Flem . Thorhout (Duc de Brabant ; Hôtel de Flandre; Cygne; Union ), a town with 8500 inhab . , derives its name from a grove once consecrated here to the worship of the Germanic god Thor ( Thorhout grove of Thor ). It contains a seminary for teachers in connection with the diocese of Bruges, and a handsome new church. In the neighbourhood , 11/2 M. to the W., is the old castle of Wynendaele, lately restored , once the property of the Counts of Flanders . Thourout is the junction of the line from Bruges to Courtrai (p . 32). 191/2 M. Cortemarck, the junction for the Ghent and Dunkirk line (p . 31) . Then Hooghlede, Staden , West- Roosebeke, Poel capelle, Langhemarck, Boesinghe . Fertile district. 35 M. Ypres. Hotels. * TÊTE D'Or , in the wide Rue de Lille, which begins at the belfry, R., L. , & A. 21/2-31 /2, B. 1, D. 2, omnibus 1/2 fr.; EPÉE ROYALE, Grande Place, R., L. , & A. 2, D. 2, B. 3/4 fr., well spoken of; CHATELLENIE, Grande Place ; HÔTELS FOURNIER, DU NORD (R., L., & A. 11/2, B. 1/2, D. 11/2 fr . ), DES BRASSEURS, etc. near the station . Ypres, Flem. Ieperen , an old town with remains of ancient forti fications, on the Yperlée , situated in a fertile district, contains 15,500 inhab., who are chiefly occupied in the manufacture of linen and lace , and possesses broad and clean streets. It was formerly the capital of West Flanders. In the 14th cent. Ypres had a population of 200,000 souls , and upwards of 4000 looms were in constant activity. These days of prosperity, however, have long since passed away. A succession of popular risings, and the siege of the town and burning of the suburbs by the burghers of Ghent in 1383, caused many of the weavers to migrate to more peaceful abodes , and the industry of Ypres became almost entirely restricted to lace making. Its subsequent capture by Louis XIV. , who converted it into a strong fortress, was fatal to all prospect of revival . Ypres thus possesses now but a shadow of its former greatness , but it still contains many memorials of its golden period , which make it one of the most interesting towns in Belgium. Diaper (i, e. d’Ypres) linen takes its name from this town. From the railway -station we first follow the Rue des Bouchers . YPRES. 5. Route. 29 ( Vleescherstraat), at the end of which we take the Rue du Temple on the left , and then turn to the right into the Marché- au-Beurre ( Botermarkt ), which brings us to the GRANDE PLACB. Here stands the * Cloth Hall, the most considerable edifice of its kind in Bel gium, begun in 1201 , but not completed till 1304. The façade, of simple design , is 460 ft. long, and is pierced by two rows of pointed windows, all in the same style . It is flanked by two corner- turrets , while in the centre rises the massive , square Belfry ( 230 ft. ), with turrets at the angles, the oldest part of the building, the founda tion stone having been laid by Count Baldwin IX . of Flanders ( p . 56) in the year 1200. The edifice is said to have suggested to Sir Gilbert Scott the idea of his successful design for the Town Hall of Hamburg. The 44 statues which adorn the façade, exe cuted by P. Puyenbroeck of Brussels in 1860, replace the original figures of 31 princes who bore the title of ' Count of Flanders', from Baldwin of the Iron Arm (d. ca. 879) to Charles V. , with their consorts . The Town Hall, a charming Renaissance structure from designs by Jan Sporeman ( 1575 ), was attached to the E. part of the Cloth Hall in the beginning of the 17th century. The ground floor consists of an elegant open hall, 20 ft . in width , boldly supported by columns . Entrance at the back , No. 1 , opposite St. Martin's Church (porter on first floor; 1 / 2-1 fr . ) . The former Salle Echevinale, now the Salle des Mariages , is adorned with fres coes by Guffens and Swerts, painted in 1869 ( Festal Entry of Philip the Bold of Burgundy and his wife , the last Countess of Flanders, in 1384, and other scenes from the town's history) , and contains a fine modern chimney- piece by Malfait of Brussels , and someold wall-paintings ( restored ) of the Counts of Flanders from 1322 to 1476. All these are best seen by afternoon light. In the centre is a small equestrian figure of Jans I. of Brabant ( 1282-94) , by A. Fiers . The whole of the first floor formerly consisted of a single large hall , which was used as a clothmarket. In 1876-84 the walls of the E. half were embellished with twelve *Mural Paintings by Ferd. Pauwels , representing the chief events in the history of Ypres. The series begins with the foundation of the Hospital of the Virgin in 1187 and ends with the siege of 1383 (p. 28 ). One of the most powerful scenes depicts the ravages of the plague in 1316. The embellishment of the W. half has been entrusted to Degroux. The W. wing contains the wooden pediment of the old town hall ( 15th cent.), besides plaster models of the statue of Bald win in Mons (p. 180) and of a seated colossal statue of Queen Louise , consort of Leopold I. The * CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARTIN , behind the Cloth Hall , was built in the 13th cent. on the site of an earlier edifice founded in 1083 ; the choir dates from 1221, the nave and aisles from 1254. The ver was added after 1434 by Master Utenhove. The finest parts are the choir and the portal of the S. transept with its magni 1 30 Route 5 . YPRES.

រ ficent rose-window and handsome gable . The doors are good examples of rich late- Gothic carving. Between the pillars of the W. porch is a triumphal arch , constructed in 1600 by Urbain Taillebert of Ypres . The interior contains some fine Renaissance choir - stalls , carved by C. van Hoveke and Urbain Taillebert in 1598 ; old frescoes in the choir , unskilfully restored in 1826 ; in the choir, a winged picture of the Fall of Man and his Redemption , dating from 1525 (covered ) ; a brazen font (16th cent.) ; late -Gothic organ loft . In the Sacristy are some fine old ecclesiastical vessels. A flat stone in the late- Gothic cloister marks the grave of Janse nius ( d. 1633) , Bishop of Ypres, founder of the sect named after him, which still exists in Holland (see p. 366) . To the E. of the cathedral and adjoining the Hôtel de Ville is the Conciergerie , an early Renaissance building. The Meat Market, a double- gabled Gothic house in the Marché au Beurre, nearly opposite (to the S.W.of) the Cloth Hall , contains the Museum ( entrance at the back , 1/2 fr. ), consisting of a col lection of antiquities ( sword with which Counts Egmont and Hoorn are said to have been executed), ancient and modern pictures (land scape by Rubens) , and drawings of several of the numerous pic turesque dwelling - houses of the 14-17th cent., of which Ypres still possesses a few . The wide Rue de Lille, opposite the Cloth Hall , leads to the S. At Nos. 36-38 in this street (on the right) is the Belle -Gasthuis or Hospice Civil (fee), an asylum for old women , founded about 1279 by Christine de Guines, widow of Salomon Belle, and rebuilt in 1616. The chapel , with statuettes of the foundress and her hus band in the pediment, contains a beautiful copper candelabrum ( 15th cent. ), a noteworthy votive painting (Madonna and Child with the donor, on a gold ground), and a polychrome votive relief, both dating from 1420. —The Steen , Nos. 66-68 in the same street, is a Gothic edifice of hewn stone of the 14th cent., now a brewery. At the end of the street is the church of St. Peter, begun in 1073 ; the W. portal is Romanesque; the interior has been modernized . Other interesting houses are Nos . 115, 63-67, 52 Rue de Lille ; No. 52 Rue de Dixmude, to the N. of the Cloth Hall; Nos. 47 and 43 Marché aux Bois ; and Nos. 11 , 15 , and 19, Marché aux Bêtes. Ypres is the seat of the Belgian Ecole de Cavalerie , or army riding-school. From Ypres to Roeselare , see p. 32. Steam -tramway to ( 20 M.) Fur's nes, see p. 31 . FROM YPRES TO POPERINGHE , 61/2 M., railway in 1/2 hr. Intermediate station Vlamertinghe. - Poperinghe, a town with 11,200 inhab. , possesses a church of about 1300 with an interesting W. portal and a carved oaken pulpit. Hops are extensively grown in the vicinity . Beyond Poperinghe the line crosses the French frontier and joins the Lille and Calais rail way at (191/2 M. ) Hazebrouck ( p. 64 ). Beyond Ypres the line is continued to Comines (p. 34 ), Armen tières , and Lille. FURNES, 5. Route . 31 - 2. From GHENT TO DUNKIRK VIÂ LICHTERVELDB, 67 M. , rail way in 31/2-4 hrs. (fares 8 fr . 25, 6 fr. 20, 4 fr. 15 c. ). 41/2 M. St. Denis - Westrem ; 6 M. La Pinte, where the line from Ghent to Oudenaarde, Leuze, and Mons diverges to the left (see p. 55 ); 71/2 M. Deurle; 101/2 M. Deynze, on the Lei or Lys, with an old church , the junction of the line to Courtrai (p . 56 ); 14 M. Grammene; 16 M. Aerseele. 201/2 M. Thielt, an old town with 10,300 inhab ., formerly a busy cloth -making place , as its Cloth Hall and Belfry indicate. Branch -line hence to (7 M.) Ingelmünster, see p . 33 ; steam -tram ways to (10 M.) Aeltre, see p . 10, and to ( 13 M. ) Ardoye, see below . 231/2 M. Pitthem ; 26 M. Ardoye. Steam -tramway hence to (21M. ) Hooghlede (p. 32 ), viâ Roeselare ( p . 32 ). - 31 M. Lichtervelde, the junction of the Bruges and Courtrai line ( see p. 32 ). — 35 M. Corte marck, the junction of the Ostend and Ypres line ( see p . 28) . Next stations: Handzaeme, Zarren, Eessen . 42 M. Diksmuide, Fr. Dixmude, the parish -church of which contains a fine rood - loft of the beginning of the 16th cent., in the richest Flamboyant style , an Adoration of the Magi by Jordaens (1614) , a marble font with a bronze cover of 1626, and other works of art. Dairy-farming is practised with great success in this neigh bourhood , and a brisk trade in butter is carried on with England. FROMDIKSMUIDE TO NIEUPORT, 11 M. , railway in 1/2-3/4 hr. 5 M. Pervyse ; 8 M. Ramscappelle. 91/2 M. Nieuport ( Ville de Liège ; Hôt. Breidel en de Coning, at the station), the town, a small and quiet place on the l'ser, with 3500 inhab., formerly fortified , and noted for its obstinate resistance to the French in 1489. The most interesting buildings are the Cloth Hall of 1480 , with a lately restored Belfry, and the Gothic Church. Outside the town, on the side next the sea, is a Lighthouse built in 1289. 11 M. Nieuport-Bains (* Hôtel des Bains, ' pens .' 8-10 , board 5 fr . ; * Hôtel Prévost ; R., L. , & A. 31/2 , B. 1 , déj . 21/2, D. 31/2, pens. 8-10 , board 5fr.; * Grand Hôt. de la Digue ; R. 2-3, déj. 2, D. 3, pens. 6-10 fr . ; Hôt, de la Mer, unpretending ), the watering- place, consists, besides the above hotels, of the Cursaal, a row of villas , and a small Roman Catholic church . As at other Belgian watering -places a Digue has been constructed along the dunes, at one end of which is an Estacade (see p. 5), 3/4 M. long, protecting the Yser and forming an admirable promenade Fine view of Ostend and Dunkirk . The sea recedes a long way at low tide , exposing a vast stretch of sand. Good sea -bathing (75 c .). Steam- tramway from Nieuport to Ostend see p . 3. Oostduinkerke and La Panne, see p. 7. 48 M. Oostkerke ; 49 M. Ave - Cappelle. 511/2 M. Furnes , Flemish Veurne ( Hôtel de la Noble Rose) , now a dull town with 4000 inhab ., was formerly of much greater importance. The Hôtel de Ville in the quaint old Grand' Place, a Renaissance structure of 1596-1612 by Lieven Lukas, contains some interesting wall-hangings of Spanish leather, a chimney-piece with representations of still- life by Snyders (? ), old Flemish tapestry, and two finely - carved doors (1623). Adjacent is the old Chatellenie, now the Palais de Justice, built by Sylvanus Boulin in 1612-1628. The antechamber on the first floor was the former meeting place of the Inquisition ; the adjoining chapel has a timber roof and good entrance to th 32 Route 5 . ROESELARE . wood- carvings in the choir. The tall Belfry, ending in a spire , was erected in 1624. The Church of St. Walburga is of very ancient origin ; the present building was designed at the beginning of the 14th cent. on so extensive a scale that only the choir, with its radiating chapels, has been completed . It contains finely carved choir -stalls (beginning of 17th cent. ) , besides a Descent from the Cross at tributed to Pourbus and a reliquary of the15th cent. ( in the sacristy). On the E. side of the Grand Place rises the castellated Corps de Garde Espagnol ( 13-14th cent . ), adjoined by the Gothic Pavillon des Officiers Espagnols (15th cent. ), both now undergoing restoration for the reception of the municipal museum and library. The Church of St. Nicholas, with a huge, unfinished tower, dates from the 14th century. Many strangers are attracted to Furnes by the great pro cession which has taken place here annually since 1650 on the last Sunday in July. The twelve Stations of the Cross are dramatically represented on this occasion by the members of the Confrérie de la Sodalité , with the help of wooden figures. Steam -tramway to Ostend, see p . 3 ; to Ypres, see p . 29. About 31/2 M. to the W. of Furnes is La Panne( p. 7 ). The next station , Adinkerke, is the last in Belgium . Ghyvelde is the first French station . Then , Zuydcote , Roosendael, Tente - Verte. 67 M. Dunkirk , French Dunkerque ( Grand Hôtel; *Chapeau Rouge ; Hôtel de Flandre) , a strongly -fortified town with 38,000 inhab. , in the Département du Nord, was taken by the English in 1388, by the Spaniards in 1583, again by the English during the Protectorate in 1658, and was finally purchased by Louis XIV. from Charles II . in 1662. It is now a busy commercial place and fishing -station. A considerable English community resides here (English church) . Comp . Baedeker's Northern France. 7 3. From BRUGES TO COURTRAI, 33 M. , railway in 11/ 2-2 hrs . (fares 4 fr. 5 , 3 fr. 5, 2 fr. 5 c. ) . Stations Lophem and Zedelgem . 11 M. Thourout, see p. 28. 14 M. Lichtervelde, see p. 31 . Then Gits and Beveren. 19 M. Roeselare , French Roulers (Duc de Brabant) , a town with 20 , 200 inhab . , high above which rises the handsome Gothic tower of the church of St. Michael. Roeselare carries on a busy trade in linen goods . Here, on 13th July, 1794, a fierce conflict took place betweenthe Austrians under Clerfait, and the French under Piche gru and Macdonald, in which the latter were victorious. This defeat was the prelude to that of Fleurus (p . 203), thirteen days later. BRANCH-LINE TO YPRES, 14 M. in 3/4 hr. (fares 2fr. , 1 fr. 40, 90 c. ) . Stations Moorslede-Passchendaele, Zonnebeke, Ypres (p. 28 ). -- From Roeselare to Menin , 11 M., branch- railway in 25-40 min. (fares 1 fr . 40 , 1 fr . 5 , 70 c . ). Stations Beythem , Ledeghem -Dadizeele, Menin (p . 34). To Hooghlede and to Ardoye, see p . 31 . 21 M. Rumbeke possesses a fine Gothic church and a château of Count de Thiennes. 231/2 M. Iseghem , with 9000 inhab. , con OUDENAARDE. 6. Route. 33 tains numerous linen - factories . Tobacco is extensively cultivated in the environs . Between Iseghem and (26 M.) Ingelmünster, a small town with extensive carpet-manufactories, is the handsome château of Baron Gillés . -From Ingelmünster branch-lines diverge to Thielt (p . 31) and to Waereghem (see p. 55). 28 M. Lende lede ; 30 M. Heule, the Gothic church of which has a clumsy tower. Near Courtrai the train crosses the Lei (or Lys) . 33 M. Courtrai, see p . 56. 6. From Brussels to Courtrai and Ypres. RAILWAY from Brussels to Courtrai, 54 M., in 2-2/2 hrs. ( fares 6 fr. 60, 4 fr . 95 , 3 fr . 30 c .; express 8 fr . 25 , 6fr. 20, 4 fr. 15 c.); from Cour trai to Yprés, 21 M., in 1 hr. ( fares 2 fr. 60 , 1 fr. 95, 1 fr. 30 c . ) . — Depar ture in Brussels from the Station du Nord (p. 72) . From Brussels to ( 15 M.) Denderleeuw , see p. 11. The line to Ghent and Ostend (R. 3) here diverges to the N.W. , and that to Grammont and Ath-Juibise (p. 69) to the S.W. Our line enters E. Flanders, and passes Haeltert, Burst (branch to Alost) , and Herzeele . 27 M. Sotteghem , a small town of 2900 inhab . , with several boot and shoe manufactories , is the junction of the Ghent and Grammont line (R. 20) and of a line to Ellezelles ( p . 70). The next stations are Rooborst, Boucle - St. Denis - Nederzwalm , and Eename. 38 M. Oudenaarde, Fr. Audenarde ( Pomme d'Or, Grand' Place ; Saumon, Rue Haute, both near the Hôtel de Ville ; Hôtel de Bru xelles, with café, opposite the station ), a very ancient town with 5700 inhab . , situated on the Schelde , possesses manufactories of linen and cotton goods . It was the birthplace of Margaret of Parma (b . 1522), regent of the Netherlands under Philip II., a natural daughter of Emp. Charles V. and Johanna van der Gheenst. Under the walls of the town , on 11th July, 1708, the Allies commanded by Marlborough and Prince Eugene of Savoy gained a decisive victory over the French . An hour is sufficient for a visit to the beautiful Hôtel de Ville, or town - hall. The street to the right, nearly opposite the station , leads in 10 min . to the centre of the town . At the entrance to the town stands a monument (by Geefs) to volunteers from Oudenaarde who perished in Mexico while serving under Emp. Maximilian. We next reach the Place in which is situated the ** Town Hall, a small, but very elegant building, erected in the late- Gothic style by H. van Peede and W. de Ronde in 1525-35, and recently restor ed . The ground -floor consists of a pointed hall borne by columns and above it are two stories with pointed windows. The tower which rises from the pointed hall in the centre of the façade is particularly rich . It consists of five stories, and is covered with a crown-shaped roof. The numerous statuettes with which the build ing was once embellished have all disappeared . We ascend the BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 3 34 Route 7 . GHENT. 2 flight of steps opposite the Hôtel Pomme d'Or, leading to the Salle des Pas Perdus, which contains a late -Gothic chimney -piece. Pass ing through the door beyond , to the right, we find an attendant (50 c . ) , who opens the council - chamber. The portal of this room , a masterpiece of wood- carving, was executed by Paul van Schel den in the Renaissance style in 1531 ; the handsome late-Gothic chimney - piece dates from 1529 . In the S.E. corner of the Place , to the right as we quit the town - hall, is the Church of St. Walburga , partly in the Roman esque style of the 12th cent., and partly in the Gothic style of the 14th and 15th, with a very prominent transept. The massive and well- proportioned tower has unfortunately been left unfinished . The interior contains paintings by De Crayer, Van Thulden , and others, anda rich polychrome reredos of the late Renaissance ( first chapel on the N. side) . The church of Notre Dame de Pamele, 8 min . farther to the S. , on the other bank of the Schelde, an interesting example of the transition style of the 13th cent., with later additions and an oct angular tower above the cross , has recently been successfully re stored . It contains two sarcophagus -monuments of 1504 and 1616. From Oudenaarde to Ghent or Mons, see p. 55. Steam -tramway to ( 11°/2 M.) Deynze , see p. 31 . The next stations are Peteghem and Anseghem , the first place in West Flanders , whence a branch - line runs to Waereghem and Ingelmünster ( p. 33 ). Then Vichte and Deerlyck . 54 M. Courtrai, see p. 56. 581/2 M. Wevelghem . 611/2 M. Menin, Flem . Meenen , a town on the Lei, with 11,700 inhab ., once fortified , where the Prussian General Scharnhorst ( d . 1813) first distinguished himself against the French . Branch - line hence to Roeselare , see p . 32 ; another runs S. to St. Amand in France . - 65 M. Wervicq, with 7000 inhab ., possesses a number of tobacco -manufactories; the Church of St. Me dardus dates from the 14th century . The right bank of the Lei or Lys here is French territory . --- 67 M. Comines, formerly a fortified town , was the birth place of the historian Philip of Comines ( d . 1509) . Branch -lines hence to Lille and to Armentières in France, see p. 64. · 691/2 M. Houthem . 75 M. Ypres, see p . 28. - 7. Ghent, French Gand. Arrival. Ghent has three railway -stations: 1. Station du Chemin de Fer de l'Etat ( Pl. D, 5, 6) , on the S. side of the town , for the trains of the government-lines to Brussels, Antwerp, Terneuzen , Oudenaarde, Malines, Bruges, Courtrai , and Braine-le-Comte . —2. Station du Pays de Waes ( Pl. E, 3 , 4) , forthe trains through the Waesland to Antwerp ( R. 10) . — 3. Station d' Eecloo (Pl . 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ಭತ್ತ ಲೈದೆ courtraje Moro at restrem - Denis St de chip Casernes ca delle Quaila der Pue 16 Rededcorine Chausia faustral de Schaussée Leppott ? Boul tadentes OD fer somne stlievin d.l.pte Rempart .C.5 · Ecole Normale Eglise 11 Faubourg dela Colline SortETE 25.12DS с D EOstende Wagner Debes &Leipzig , dos । !!। पDi111 GकाH*E.। GHENT. 7. Route. 35 4 ROYAL ( Pl. b ; C , 5 ), Place d'Armes 7 ; charges at both these: R. from 3, L. 1/2-1 , A.1 , B. 14/2, déj. 3 , D. 4, pens. 12 fr. – Hôtel de VIENNE (Pl. a ; C, 4) , in the Marché aux Grains, R., L., & A. 21/2-4 , B. 11/4, déj. 31/2, D. Rue de l'Étoile 27 ,near theMarché aux' Grains, R., L., &A. 31/2,D.2, pens. 4, peng. 8, omn. 1/2 fr.; café adjoining; HÔTEL DE L'ETOILE ( Pl. d ; C , 4) , 10 fr. ; HÔTEL D'ALLEMAGNE, Marché aux Grains, unpretending, well spoken of, R. & B. 3, D. 2 fr .; AuxARMES DE ZEELANDE , Marché aux Graing .- At the Government Station : GRANDE COUR ROYALE , Rue de la Station 3 ; HÔTEL DE LA Paix , well spoken of, opposite the station, with restaurant; etc. Restaurants. * Mottez, Avenue Place d'Armes 3; Bouard, Rue Courte de la Croix 2, near the cathedral; Lion d'Or, Place du Lion d'Or, near the Hôtel de Ville; Rocher de Cancale (also rooms), corner of the Marché aux Oiseaux and the Rue Courte du Jour ( Pl. D , 5 ; plat du jour ', 75 c . ) ; Taverne St. Jean, Marché aux Oiseaux 2 ; Taverne de l'Opéra, opposite the Theatre, atthe cornerof thePlace d'Armes ; Klaus, Rue de la Crapaudière 7, next the University (Munich beer) ; Rotonde, Boulevard de la Citadelle . Cafes. "Grand Café , Rue Longue du Marais , near the Place d'Armes, also a restaurant; * Café des Arcades, on the E. 'side of the Place d'Armes (Pl. C , 5 ) , also restaurant ; Café Royal, in the Theatre (Pl. 26) , etc. Uitzet, a kind of strong beer brewed in Ghent, is famous; best at the Fleur de Blé (Korenbloem ), Rue d'Akkerghem (Pl. A, B , 4, 5 ). Cabs per drive 1 fr . ; first hour2, each following hour 11/2 fr.; after 11 p . m ., per drive 11/2 fr .; open cab . , /2 fr. extra per hr. Tramway, see Plan, Theatre (Pl. 25 ; C, 5 ), adjoining the Place d'Armes . Boxes and stalls 5 , parquet 21/2, pit 1 fr. Performances ( in French ) in winter only. Flemish Theatre or Minard -Schouwburg ( Pl . 26 ; D , 5 ), Rue Neuve St. Pierre ; Eden Theatre , Rue Courte du Jour (a theatre of varieties) . Post and Telegraph Office (Pl . 22 ; C, adjoining the Theatre, and opposite the Palais de Justice; other telegraph- offices at the government station and the Marché aux Légumes. English Church ( St. John's ), Place St. Jacques ; services at 10.30 and 6.30 ; Communion at 8.45 a m ., except on 1st and 3rd Sun. of each month ; chaplain, Rev. T. s. Cunningham , 37 Rue de l'Ecole, Mt. St. Amand. Sailors’ Institute, at the Docks ; concerts on alternate Tues. & Frid . American Consul, Mr. John B. Osborne, Rue des Champs 12. - Eng lish Vice- Consul, Mr. Hallett, Rue Fiévé 30. Physicians (English - speaking ). Dr. J. Morel- Davis, Hospice Ghislain ; Dr. Eeman, Rue Digue de Brabant 95 . English Chemist , Moriarty, Rue Guillaume Tell 7. Principal Attractions : Cathedral ( p. 38 ), view from the tower of St. Bavon or from the Belfry ( p. 43) ; Hôtel de Ville, exterior only ( p . 44) ; Marché du Vendredi ( p . 45) , Marché aux Herbes (p. 49), Marché aux Grains ( p . 48) , Abbey of St. Bavon (p . 46 ), larger or smaller Béguinage ( pp . 47, 48 ), the latter being quainter and more easily reached. Ghent or Gand, the capital of E. Flanders , with 150,000 inhab. , lies on the Schelde and the Lei ( Lys ), as well as on the insignificant Lieve and Moere, which flow through the city in numerous arms, cross ed by more than 100 bridges of various kinds . The city is of con siderable extent, being upwards of 6 M. in circumference , and covering an area of 5750 acres, part of which, however, is occupied with gardens and bleaching - grounds. A wide canal, originally con structed in order to protect the town from inundations, and recently enlarged and deepened , falls into the Schelde at Terneuzen (p. 10) , and thus connects the city with the sea , but since the separation of Belgium from Holland has been comparatively little used on account of the heavy imposts levied by the latter on vessels passing through. Another canal ( Coupure, p . 52) connects the Lei with the canal 3 * 36 Route 7 . GHENT. History. from Bruges to Ostend, which is in its turn connected by the ' New Canal (Canal de Raccordement) with the Canal from Terneuzen (p. 10) . Corn, rape- oil, and flax are important articles of commerce, but the products for which Ghent has long been famous are cotton and linen goods, dyed-leather wares, and lace. The large linen factory 'La Lys' (Pl. A, 3 , 4) employs about 3000 operatives. Of late the engine- factories of Ghent have become considerable . Ghent is mentioned in history as early as the 7th century . At the beginning of the 13th cent. , when the County of Artois was united to France, Ghent became the capital of Flanders and the usual residence of the Counts. At a very early period a spirit of independence developed itself among the inhabitants, more especi ally the weavers ; and they succeeded in obtaining from their sovereigns those concessions which form the foundation of consti tutional liberty . At one period the citizens had become so power ful and warlike that they succeeded in repulsing an English army of 24,000 men, under Edward I. (1297) , and a few years later theywere the principal combatants in the ' Battle of Spurs' (p.57), to the issue of which their bravery mainly contributed . Their sub jection to the Counts of Flanders and the Dukes of Burgundy appears to have been little more than nominal ; for whenever these princes attempted to levy a tax which was unpopular with the citizens, the latter sounded their alarm-bell, flew to arms, and ex pelled the obnoxious officials appointed to exact payment. During the 13-15th centuries revolutions seem almost to have been the or der of the day at Ghent. John of Gaunt (d . 1399) was born here . One of the most remarkable characters of his age was Jacques Van Artevelde , the celebrated “ Brewer of Ghent ' (born 1290 ), a clever and ambitious demagogue , who , though of noble family, is said to have caused himself to be enrolled as a member of the Guild of Brewers in order to ingratiate himself with the lower classes. Owing to his wealth , ability, and remarkable eloquence, he acquired immense influence, and in 1337 was appointed ' Captain of Ghenť. He was an ally of Edward III . in the war between England and France (1335-45) , in which the democratic party of Ghent sup ported the former, and the Counts of Flanders the latter ; and it is recorded that Edward condescended to flatter him by the title of dear gossip' . For seven years Artevelde reigned supreme at Ghent, putting to death all who had the misfortune to displease him, banishing the nobles and those who betrayed symptoms of attach ment to their sovereign , and appointing magistrates who were the mere slaves of his will . Artevelde at length proposed that the son of Edward should be elected Count of Flanders , a scheme so dis tasteful to the Ghenters that an insurrection broke out, and Jacques was slain in his own house on July 17th , 1345 , by Gerard Denys , the leader of his opponents . During this period, in consequence of the alliance with Ghent, the manufacture of wool became more ex History. GHENT. 7. Route. 37 6 tensively known and practised in England. Ghent also realised vast profits from its English trade , a circumstance which induced the citizens to submit so long to the despotic rule of Jacques, to whom they owed their advantageous connection with England . Philip Van Artevelde, son of Jacques , and godson of Queen Philippa of England, possessed all the ambition but little of the talent of his father. He was appointed dictator by the democratic party in 1381 , during the civil war against Count Louis of Flan ders, surnamed 'van Maele ', and his administration was at first salutary and judicious, but he soon began to act with all the caprice of a despot. In May, 1382, when Ghent was reduced to extremities by famine, and the citizens had resolved to surrender, Philip counselled them to make a final venture , rather than submit to the humiliating conditions offered by the Count. He accordingly marched at the head of 5000 men to Bruges , and signally defeated Louis, who sallied forth to meet them . Elated by this success , Philip now assumed the title of Regent of Flanders , and established himself at Ghent in a style of great magnificence . His career, however, was brief. At the end of 1382 war again broke out, chiefly owing to the impolitic and arrogant conduct of Philip himself, and Charles VI . of France marched against Flanders . Philip was defeated and slain at the disastrous Battle of Roosebeke (Nov. 27th, 1382 ), where 20,000 Flemings are said to have perished. The city was obliged to submit to the Count, and after his death came into the possession of Burgundy. The turbulent spirit of the Ghenters ultimately proved their ruin . In 1448, when Philippe le Bon of Burgundy imposed a heavy tax on salt , they openly declared war against him ; and the best proof of the vastness of their resources is that they succeeded in carrying on the war for a period of five years ( 1448-53 ). The day of retribution and humiliation , however, at length arrived, and the burghers , brave but undisciplined , were compelled to succumb. On 23rd July, 1453, they were defeated at Gavre (p. 55) on the Schelde, and lost no fewer than 16,000 men. Philip now levied enormous contributions on the city ; the corporation and princi pal citizens were compelled to march out at the gate with halters round their necks, and to kiss the dust at the feet of their con queror ; and the most valuable privileges of the city were suspended or cancelled . In 1477 the nuptials of the Archduke Maximilian were celebrated at Ghent with Mary of Burgundy, heiress of Charles the Bold, who by her marriage brought the wealthy Netherlands into the power of Austria (see p. 17) . On the same occasion the first general consti tution of the Netherlands ( Het Groot Privilegie ), granted by Mary, was promulgated here. Here , too, on 24th Feb., 1500, the Emperor Charles V. was born in the Cour du Prince, a palace of the Counts of Flanders long since destroyed, but the name of which survives 38 Route 7 . GHENT. Cathedral . in a street ( see p. 51) . During his reign Ghent was one of the largest and wealthiest cities in Europe, and consisted of 35,000 houses with a population of 175,000 souls. Charles V. is said to have boasted jestingly to Francis I. of France : Mon Gant (glove), Paris danserait dedans' . The turbulent spirit of the citizens having again manifested itself in various ebullitions, the emperor caused a Citadel ( Het Spanjaards Kasteel) to be erected near the Antwerp Gate in 1540, for the purpose of keeping them in check . No trace of the structure now remains. Counts Egmont and Hoorn were im prisoned in this castle in 1568 for several months before their execution . Within its precincts lay the ancient Abbey of St. Bavon (p. 46). The moats of the old citadel have recently been filled up , and the remains of the ramparts removed to make room for new streets .

From the station of the Government line (p. 34) the broad new Rue de Flandre (Pl . D, 5 ) leads towards the inner town, to the PLACE LAURENT, a square built over a covered arm of the Schelde and named after the historian and jurist Fr. Laurent (d. 1887). In the square is the monument of L. Bauwens (d . 1822), the industrialist, by P. Devigne-Quyo. To the right (N.) of the monument, on the Schelde, which in the Middle Ages here marked the boundary between the German Empire and France, rises the CHATEAU DE GÉRARD LE DIABLE or Geerardduivelsteen ( 13th cent. ), the strong hold of an aristocratic family, now used as firemen's barracks and for the provincial archives. To inspect the interesting crypt, apply to the Concierge des Archives, Place de l'Evêché ( p. 43). The building is about to be restored.

From the Place Laurent the Rue de Limbourg leads to the cathedral. The * Cathedral of St. Bavon , or Sint Baafs (Pl . D, 4 ), ex ternally a plain and unattractive Gothic structure , is in the in terior one of the most richly - decorated churches in Belgium . The crypt was consecrated in 941 , the W. portions about 1228 ; the choir was founded in 1274, and completed in 1300 ; the late Gothic chapels date from the 15th cent.; and the nave and transept were completed in 1533-54. During the same century the church suffered severely from Puritanical outrages . The tower and the W. and S. portals have recently been skilfully restored ; and the restora tion of the interior is also nearly completed . The INTERIOR is of noble proportions, and rests on massive square pillars with projecting half- columns. The removal of the whitewash now permits the artistic effect of the different coloured stones to be seen . ( The Cathedral is open for the inspection of its art -treasures from 10 a.m .; between 12 and 4 admission is obtained by knocking loudly on the central door ; fee to the sacristan who opens the chapels, 1 fr . each person. ) On the upper walls of the Navk are the names and armorial - 2 Cathedral. GHENT . 7. Route. 39 - bearings of Knights of the Golden Fleece , the last chapter of which was held here by Philip II. of Spain in 1559. To the left (N.) of the portal is the font at which Charles V. was baptised in 1500. The * Pulpit, by Delvaux (1745 ), half in oak , half in marble, re presents the Tree of Life , with an allegory of Time and Truth ; it is the best example of Belgian sculpture in the 18th century. S. Aisle. 1st Chapel : G. de Crayer, Beheading of John the Baptist (1657). 3rd , behind the pulpit : De Cauwer, Baptism of Christ . North AISLE. 1st Chapel: Rombouts, Descent from the Cross ; A. Janssens, Pietà. Th rd Chapel is embellished with taste ful modern ornamentation in the Gothic style . — 4th : De Crayer, Assumption. A marble slab opposite records the names of the priests who refused to recognise Bishop Lebrun , appointed by Na poleon in 1813 . TRANSEPT. To the right and left of the entrance to the choir are statues of the Apostles by C. van Poucke , 1782. Ten steps lead up to the choir. CHOIR. The walls are partly covered with black marble, and the balustrades are of white or variegated marble. The high - altar is adorned with a Statue of St. Bavon in his ducal robes , hovering among the clouds , by Verbruggen (17th cent.). The choir- stalls are of carved mahogany. The scenes in grisaille from the Old and New Testament are by Van Reysschoot (1774) . The four massive copper Candlesticks bearing the English arms are believed once to have de corated St. Paul's in London, and to have been sold during the Pro tectorate of Cromwell. On each side of the choir, adjoining the altar, are two monuments to bishops , with large sculptures of the 17th and 18th cent., the best of them being that of Bishop A. Triest by Duquesnoy (1654) , the first to the left. RETRO-Choir, beginning by the S. transept. 1st Chapel : * Pour bus , Christ among the doctors ; most of the heads are portraits : left, near the frame, Alva, Charles V. , Philip II . , and the master him self; on the inner wings the Baptism and Circumcision , on the outer the Saviour and the donor (Viglius) of the picture, 1571. —2nd: Monument to the brothers Goethals, by Parmentier, 1846. Gerard van der Meire (p. xli), Christ between the malefactors, with Moses striking water from the rock and the Raising of the brazen serpent on the wings, the whole of mediocre merit. — By the choir screen , monument of Bishop Van Smet ( d . 1741). 4th and 5th : Nothing worthy of note . We now ascend the steps . 6th : ** Jan and Hubert van Eyck, Adoration of the Immaculate Lamb, præstantissima tabula, qua representatur triumphus Agni Dei, etsi quidam improprie dicunt Adami et Evæ, opus sane præ clarum et admirandum' ( Guicciardini, 1560 ; comp . also p . xxxix ). This work originally consisted of twelve sections, but is in part only in its original place, the wings being now, with the exception of the Adam and Eve (at Brussels, p . 101) , in the gallery of Berlin . > 3rd : - 6 40 Route 7 . GHENT. Cathedral. ' In the centre of the altarpiece , and on a panel which overtops all the others, the noble and dignified figure of Christ sits enthroned in the prime of manhood with a short black beard, a broad forehead, and black eyes. On his head is the white tiara , ornamented with a profusion of diamonds, pearls, and amethysts. Two dark lappets fall on either side of the grave and youthful face. The throne of black damask is em broidered with gold ; the tiara relieved on a golden ground covered with inscriptions in semicircular lines. Christ holds in his left hand a sceptre of splendid workmanship, and with two fingers of his right he gives his blessing to the world . The gorgeous red mantle which completely enshrouds his form is fastened at the breast by a large jewelled brooch . The mantle itself is bordered with a double row of pearls and amethysts. The feet rest on a golden pedestal , carpeted with black, and on the dark ground , which is cut into perspective squares by lines of gold , lies a richly -jewelled open -worked crown , emblematic of martyrdom . This figure of the Redeemer is grandly imposing ; the mantle, though laden with precious stones , in obedience to a somewhat literal interpretation of Scripture, falls from the shoulders and over the knee to the feet in ample and simple folds. The colour of the flesh is powerful, brown, and glowing , and full of vigour, that of the vestments strong and rich . The hands are well drawn, perhaps a little contracted in the muscles, but still of startling realism . On the right of Christ the Virgin sits in her traditional robe of blue ; her long fair hair, bound to the forehead by a diadem , flowing in waves down her shoulders. With most graceful hands she holds a book , and pensively looks with a placid and untroubled eye into space. On the left of the Eternal, St. John the Baptist rests, long-haired and bearded , austere in expression , splendid in form , and covered with a broad, flowing, green drapery. ' On the spectator's right of St. Baptist, St. Cecilia , in a black brocade, plays on oaken organ supported by three or four angels with viols or harps. On the left of the Virgin a similar but less beautiful group of singing choristers standing in front of an oaken desk , the foremost of them dressed in rich and heavy red brocade. (Van Mander declares that the angels who sing are so artfully done that we mark the difference of keys in which their voices are pitched.) On the spectator's right of St. Cecilia once stood the naked figure of Eve, now removed to the Brussels a figure upon which the painter seems to have concentrated all his knowledge of perspective as applied to the human form and its anatomical development. Counterpart to Eve , and once on the left side of the picture, Adam is equally remarkable for correctness of proportion and natural realism. Here again the master's science in optical perspective is conspicuous , and the height of the figure above the eye is fitly con sidered. (Above the figures of Adam and Eve are miniature groups of the sacrifices of Cain and Abel and the death of Abel . ) . ' ' Christ, by his position , presides over the sacrifice of the Lamb as represented in the lower panels of the shrine. The scene of the sacrifice is laid in a landscape formed of green hills receding in varied and pleasing lines from the foreground to the extreme distance. A Flemish city, meant, no doubt, to represent Jerusalem , is visible chiefly in the background " to the right; but churches and monasteries , built in the style of the early edifices of the Netherlands and Rhine country, boldly raise their domes and towers above every part of the horizon , and are sharply defined on a sky of pale grey gradually merging into a deeper hue . The trees , which occupy the middle ground, are not of high growth , nor are they very different in colour from the undulating meadows in which they stand. They are interspersed here and there with cypresses, and on the left is a small date-palm. The centre of the picture is all meadow and green slope , from a foreground strewed with daisies and dandelions to the distant blue hills . ' ' In the very centre of the picture a square altar is hung with red damask and covered with white cloth. Here stands a lamb, from whose breast a stream of blood issues into a crystal glass. Angels' kneel round the altar with parti-coloured wings and variegated dresses, many of them museum - Cathedral. GHENT. 7. Route. 41 praying with joined hands , others holding aloft the emblems of the pas sion, two in front waving censers . From a slight depression of the ground to the right, a little behind the altar , a numerous band of female saints is issuing, all in rich and varied costumes, fair hair floating over their shoulders , and palms in their hands ; foremost may be noticed St. Barbara with the tower and St. Agnes. From a similar opening on the left, popes , cardinals , bishops , monks, and minor clergy advance, some holding croziers and crosses, other palms. This , as it were , forms one phase of the adoration. In the centre near the base of the picture a small octagonal fountain of stone , with an iron jet and tiny spouts , projects a stream into a rill , whose pebbly bottom is seen through the pellucid water. The fountain and the altar , with vanishing points on different horizons , prove the V Eycks to have been unacquainted with the science of linear perspective. Two distinct groups are in adoration on each side of the fountain . That on the right comprises the twelve apostles, in light greyish violet cloaks kneeling bare - footed on the sward, with long hair and beards, expressing in their noble faces the intensity of their faith . On their right stands a gorgeous array of three popes, two cardinal monks, seven bishops, and a miscellaneous crowd of church and laymen . The group on the left of the fountain is composed of kings and princes in various costumes, the foremost of them kneeling, the rest standing, none finer than that of a dark bearded man in a red cloth cap stepping forward in full front towards the spectator, dressed in a dark blue mantle , and holding a sprig of myrtle. The whole of the standing figures command prolonged attention from the variety of the attitudes and expressions, the stern resolution of some, the eager glances of others, the pious resignation and contemplative serenity of the remainder. The faithful who have thus reached the scene of the sacrifice are surrounded by a perfect wilderness of flowering shrubs, lilies , and other beautiful plants, and remain in quiet contemplation of the Lamb .' Numerous worshippers besides are represented on the wings of the triptych , moving towards the place of worship. On the left is a band of crusaders, the foremost of whom, on a dapple grey charger, is clad in armour with an undercoat of green slashed stuff , a crown of laurel on his brow , and a lance in his hand. On his left two knights are riding, also in complete armour , one on a white , the other on a brown charger, carrying lances with streamers. Next to the third figure, a nobleman in a fur cap bestrides an ass , whose ears appear above the press ; on his left a crowned monarch on a black horse ; behind them a crowd of kings and princes. In rear of them , and in the last panel to the left, Hubert Van Eyck with long brown hair , in a dark cap , the fur peak of which is turned up , ambles forward on a spirited white pony. He is dressed in blue velvet lined with grey fur; his saddle has long green housings. In the same line with him two riders are mounted on sorrel nags and next them again a man in a black turban and dark brown dress trimmed with fur, whom historians agree in calling John Van Eyck . The face is turned towards Hubert, and therefore away from the direction taken by the cavalcade ; further in rear are several horsemen. The two groups proceed along a sandy path , which yields under the horses' hoofs , and seems to have been formed by the detritus of a block of stony ground rising perpendicularly behind , on each side of which the view extends to a rich landscape , with towns and churches in the distance on one hand , and a beautiful vista of blue and snow mountains on the other. White fleecy clouds float in the sky. There is not to be found in the whole Flemish school a picture in which human figures are grouped, designed, or painted with so much perfection as in this of the mystic Lamb. Nor is it possible to find a more complete or better distributed composition , more natural attitudes , or more dignified expression. Nowhere in the pictures of the early part of the 15th century can such airy landscape be met. Nor is the talent of the master confined to the appropriate representation of the human form , his skill extends alike to the brute creation. The horses, whose caparisons are of the most precious kind, are admirably drawn and in excellent movement. One charger stretches 42 Route 7 . GHENT. Cathedral. his neck to lessen the pressure of the bit; another champs the curb with Flemish phlegma; a third throws_his head down between his fore legs ; the pony ridden by Hubert Van Eyck betrays a natural fire , and frets under the restraint put upon it. ' ‘On the right side of the altarpiece we see a noble band of ascetics with tangled hair and beards and deep complexions , dressed in frock and cowl, with staves and rosaries , moving round the base of a rocky bank , the summit of which is wooded and interspersed with palms and orange trees . Two female saints , one of them the Magdalene , bring up the rear of the hermit band, which moves out of a grove of orange trees with glossy leaves and yellow fruit. In the next panel to the right, and in a similar landscape, St. Christopher, pole in hand, in a long red cloak of inelegant folds, overtops the rest of his companions pilgrims with grim and solemn faces. Here a palm and a cypress are painted with surprising fidelity .' " The altarpiece , when closed, has not the all-absorbing interest of its principal scenes when open. It is subdivided first into two parts , in the upper portion of which is the Annunciation, in the lower the portraits of Jodocus Vydts and his wife , and imitated statues of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. In the semicircular projection of the upper central panel are the Sibyls, whilst half figures of Zachariah and Micah are placed in the semicircles above the annunciate angel and Virgin. With the exception of Jodocus and his wife and the Annun ciation, the whole of this outer part of thepanels may have been executed under supervision by the pupils of theVan Eycks. ' . Crowe & Cavalcaselle . The Early Flemish Painters . 2nd Ed. 1872. This work, the most extensive and imposing of the Flemish School, has undergone various vicissitudes . Philip II. endeavoured to obtain possession of it, but at length was obliged to be satisfied with a copy executed for him by Coxie . In 1566 it was with difficulty rescued from Puritanical outrage, and in 1641 saved from danger of burning. An expression of disapproval by the Emp. Joseph II. , in 1784, regarding the nude figures of Adam and Eve induced the churchwardens to keep the picture under lock and key. In 1794 it was taken to Paris, and when it was restored in 1815 the central pictures only were replaced in their original positions , while the wings were ignorantly, or from avaricious motives, sold to a dealer , from whom they were purchased by the museum of Berlin for 410,000 fr. The two wings with Adam and Eve were kept con cealed at Ghent, as being unsuitable for a church, down to 1861 , when they were removed to the museum at Brussels. The missing wings are replaced by copies with variations by Coxie . The work was begun by Hubert van Eyck for Jodocus Vyts, an important patrician of Ghent , and his wife Isabella Burluut, about the year 1420 , and finished by John in 1432. The share which each of the brothers took in this work cannot be precisely ascertained . The central piece , and the figures of God the Father, Mary, John , Adam, and Eve, are usually attributed to Hubert, and the rest of the work to his brother. 7th Chapel : Honthorst, Pietà ; at the side, De Crayer, Christ on the Cross . - 8th : Monuments of Bishops Ph. E, and A. van der Noot, of the 18th cent. , with a Scourging of Christ and a Vir gin , by Helderenberg and Verschaffelt. 9th . The altarpiece , re - Belfry. GHENT. 7. Route, 43 presenting the so-called Betrothal of St. Catharine with the Infant Christ, and the Virgin with the holy women, is by Roose, surnamed Liemaeckere . 10th : * Rubens, St. Bavon renounces his military career in order to assume the cowl. The figure of the saint is said to represent the master himself in the upper part of the picture , where he is received on the steps of the church by a priest, after having distributed all his property among the poor. To the left are two women, said to be portraits of the two wives of Rubens, both in the costume of that period ; one of them appears to be disengaging a chain from her neck, as if she would follow the example of the saint. At the altar : 0. Vaenius, Raising of Lazarus,adjoining which is the monument of Bishop Damant ( d. 1609). We now descend the steps to visit the rest of the chapels, which , however, contain little of special merit except M. Coxie's Seven Works of Mercy ( in the 15th and last). The SACRISTY contains the Treasury, with the silver reliquary of St. Macarius (Châsse de St. Macaire) , a Renaissance work of 1616. Of the CRYPT beneath the choir the W. parts only, resting on low pillars, belong to the original structure, which was consecrated in 941. The E. part, with its numerous chapels, is Gothic . Hubert van Eyck and his sister Margaret are buried here . The TOWER (446 steps) affords a much finer *View than the Belfry ( fee 2 fr. for 1-4 persons; apply to the verger in the sacristy ). The modern Episcopal Palace is on the E. side of the church. Ad jacent is the building containing the rich Archives of E. Flanders. The Belfry ( Belfrood, or Beffroi ; Pl . C, 4 ), a lofty square tower which has attained two-thirds only of the projected height, rises near the cathedral, almost in the centre of the city, of which it commands a fine panorama. In 1839-53 it was provided with an iron spire. According to a note written upon the original design , which is pre served in the city archives, the construction was begun in 1183; in 1339 the works were suspended. Etymologists differ as to the origin of the word “ belfrood ' or belfry , but the most probable derivation is from bell (Dutch bellen , to sound, to ring) and frood or fried (jurisdiction ). One of the first privileges usually obtained by the burghers from their feudal lords was permission to erect one of these watch or bell-towers , from which peals were rung on all important occasions to summon the people to council or to arms . The concierge, who accompanies visitors to the top of the tower (1 pers. 1 fr ., more for a party ), lives in the tower itself, entrance in the St. Janstraat. In the interior are two square rooms, one above the other, with fine Gothic windows. The third gallery, at a height of 270 ft., is reached by 386 steps ; the total height to the point of the spire is 375 ft. The staircase is dark and rather steep. The spire is surmounted by a vane , consisting of a gilded dragon , 10 ft. in length, made at Ghent in 1380. 44 Route 7 . GHENT. Hôtel de Ville. The View embraces a great portion of Flanders, as well as an ad mirable survey of the city . When the Duke of Alva proposed to Charles V. that he should destroy the city which had occasioned him so much annoyance, the monarch is said to have taken him to the top of the belfry, and there to have replied : ' Combien faudrait- il de peaux d'Espagne pour faire un Gant de cette grandeur ? ' thus rejecting the cruel sug gestion of his minister. The mechanism of the Chimes may be examined at the top of the tower. They are played by means of a cylinder, like that in a barrel organ , the spikes on which set the tongues and hammers of the bells in motion . They may also be played by a musician who uses an apparatus resembling the keyboard and pedal of an organ . The tower contains 44 bells . A hole in one of them was made by a cannon -ball fired at the belfry by the Austrians from the old citadel in 1789, in order to prevent the citizens from ringing the alarm . The ball did not miss its aim , but failed to effect its purpose, for the tone of the bell continued unimpaired . One of the oldest and heaviest bells , which was recast in 1659, bears the inscription : Myn naem is Roelant; als ick kleppe dan is't brand ; als ick luyde , is't victorie in Vlaenderland' (My name is Roland ; when I am rung hastily, then there is a fire ; when I resound in peals , there is a victory in Flanders) . The lower part of the Belfry, used as a town - prison , is called 'Mam melokker ', a Flemish word applied to the colossal relief over the entrance from the Marché au Beurre ( Botermarkt), representing a woman giving sustenance from her own breast to an old man in chains at her feet, and expressive of the filial act she is performing ( Charité Romaine' ) . The portal and figures belong to the 18th century. An interesting Gothic building in the Rue St. Jean , adjoining the Belfry, erected in 1325 (now being restored), was formerly the Cloth Hall. The interior, with the collections of the Brotherhood of St. Michael ( Confrérie des Escrimeurs dite de St. Michel), founded in the 17th cent . , is shown by the concierge of the Belfry. In the Marché au Beurre (Botermarkt) is situated the * Hôtel de Ville (Pl . C, 4 ), which consists of two entirely different parts . The picturesque façade towards the Rue Haut-Port , constructed in 1518-33, in the florid -Gothic ( Flamboyant) style , from designs by Dominicus de Waghemakere and Rombout Keldermans ( p . 134 ), was restored in 1829 , and again quite recently ; it is perhaps the most beautiful piece of Gothic architecture in Belgium . The E. façade, towards the market - place, with its three tiers of columns, was con structed in 1595-1628, in the Renaissance style . The * INTERIOR contains several fine Gothic rooms and an interesting Gothic staircase . On the first floor of the wing dating from the end of the 15th cent., is the Council Hall or Salle de l'Arsenal, with timber- roof, lofty Gothic windows , and two artistic chimney-pieces. The artistically executed coats -of-arms of magistrates on the bindings of the account books of the town (from the end of the 15th cent. downwards), here displayed , are of considerable heraldic importance. The ' Pacification of Ghent', a treaty drawn up by a congregs of the Confederates who assembled here in 1576 with a view to expel the Spaniards from the Netherlands , was signed in this hall , where a commemorative tablet was erected in 1876. The lofty chapel now serves as the Salle des Mariages, or oftice for civil marriages. The Archives are very important, containing documents reach ing back to the 13th century. In the Poeldemarkt ( ' poultry market ), behind the Hôtel de Ville, is the office of the Charitable Society , containing an interesting room with wood -carvings and paintings of the 17th cent. (Charles V., Albert and Iga bella, etc.) . At the chimney -piece , which is of carved wood , are two > Marché du Vendredi. GHENT. 7. Route . 45 > statuettes of orphans in the costume of the period ( 1680 ). Small fee to the keeper (ring) . Opposite the N. façade of the Hôtel de Ville is the Rue des Grainiers , ending in the Rue Basse , which we cross obliquely to the Rue du Serpent, leading to the * Marché du Vendredi ( Vrydagmarkt ; Pl. C, D, 3, 4 ), an extensive square, still surrounded by antiquated buildings . The most important events in the history of Ghent have taken place here . Homage was here done to the Counts of Flanders on their accession , in a style of magni ficence unknown at the present day, after they had sworn , ' alle de bestaende wetten , vorregten , vryheden en gewoonten van't graafschap en van de stad Gent te onderhouden en te doen onder houden' ( to maintain and cause to be maintained all the existinglaws, privileges, freedoms, and customs of the county and city of Ghent ; comp. p. 51). Here the members of the medieval guilds, ces têtes dures de Flandre', as Charles V. termed his countrymen , frequently assembled to avenge some real or imaginary infringement of their rights, and here the standard of revolt was invariably erected . One of the most disastrous civic broils took place here in 1341 , when Gerard Denys at the head of his party, which consisted chiefly of weavers, attacked his opponents the fullers with such fury that even the elevation of the host failed to separate the combatants , of whom upwards of 500 were slain . Jacques van Artevelde, the famous Brewer of Ghent ' (see p . 36 ), then in power, was after wards assassinated by Denys. This fatal day was subsequently entered in the civic calendar as “ Kwade Maandag ' (Wicked Monday). Under the rule of the Duke of Alva . his auto - da - fé's were enacted in the Marché du Vendredi , and many thousand Ghenters were then compelled to emigrate, thus leaving the city half untenanted . A bronze statue of Charles V. stood here down to 1794 , when it was destroyed by the French sansculottes . It is now replaced by a bronze Statue of Jacques van Artevelde (Pl. 24 ; D, 3), over life -size, executed in bronze by Devigne-Quyo, and erected in 1863. The powerful demagogue is represented fully accoutred, in the act of delivering the celebrated speech in which he succeeded in per suading the citizens of Ghent and the inhabitants of Flanders to enter into an alliance with England against the will of the Count of Artois . The three reliefs on the pedestal have reference to the three most important treaties concluded by Artevelde in behalf of Flanders. The ancient buildings which formerly lent an interest to this square are now represented by a single house , known as the Toreken or (erroneously) the Collacie - Zolder (municipal council room) , dating from the 13th or 14th century . An inelegant modern roof crowns the tower of this edifice, which is now occupied by small shopkeepers . — A view of the principal towers of the city is obtained from the N. side of the market. The Pont du Laitage ( p. 50 ) lies to the N.W. of this point. At the corner of a street on the W. side of the Marché du Ven > 46 Route 7 . GHENT. St. Jacques. dredi is placed a huge cannon , called the ' Dulle Griete' (Mad Meg ; 14th cent. ), 19 ft. long and 11 ft. in circumference (resem bling ' Mons Meg' , a similar cannon in Edinburgh Castle ). Above the touch - hole is the Burgundian Cross of St. Andrew, with the arms of Philippe le Bon (1419-1467). At the back of the E. side of the Marché du Vendredi rises the Church of St. Jacques (Pl . 8 ; D, 4), originally founded about the year 1100. The present edifice dates from the end of the 15th or beginning of the 16th cent. , but the W. towers , and the lower part of the central tower are Romanesque. The INTERIOR contains several pictures by Jan van Cleef. In the left aisle are two paintings by G. de Crayer : Members of the Order of the Trinity ransoming Christian captives, and the Virgin . In the right aisle is the Departure of the youthful Tobias, by Jan Maes- Canini. The two pictures of Apostles in the choir are by Van Huf'el. Near the pulpit is a statue of the Apostle James by Van Poucke. The handsome marble taberna cle dates from the 16th century. Here also is the tomb of Jean Palfyn ( d. 1730 ) of Courtrai, inventor of the forceps . The Botanic Garden ( Plantentuin , Pl. D, 3), in the immediate vicinity, is the finest in Belgium . (The entrance is at No. 21 Rue St. Georges , a street traversed by the tramway running to the Ant werp Gate . ) It was founded in 1797, and is commonly known as the Baudeloohof. The hot-houses (Victoria Regia, etc.) are extensive. The suppressed Baudeloo Convent contains the Athenaeum (Gram mar School), the Town and University Library (upwards of 200,000 vols . ; 2500 MSS. , some of them very rare) , and a collection of about 7000 drawings, 14,000 engravings, plans, and water - colour sketches of buildings and views in Ghent, from the 16th cent. till the present time , coins, and about 25,000 pamphlets of the 16-17th centuries . The reading room is open to the public daily (except Sun. and during the vacations ), 9-7. Farther to the E. lies the ruined * Abbey of St. Bavon (Pl . 14 ; E , 4 ; entrance on the S. , in the Rue de l'Abbaye ; 1/2 1/2 fr .) . It may be reached by taking the tramway from the church of St. Jacques to the Rue d'Anvers, and thence to the S. by the Rue du Château and Rue St. Macaire. The abbey , of very early foundation, was one of those bestowed upon Eginhard, the biographer of Charlemagne, and after its destruction by the Northmen , was restored with great splendour ( 10th cent. ). Charles V. , though noted as a zealous persecutor of heretics and iconoclasts , caused the beautiful old Romanesque cathedral and most of the conventual buildings to be razed in 1540, in order to build a citadel (p. 38) . A fragment of a 15th cent. cloister is still extant, with the Baptistery of St. Ma carius, consecrated in 1179, on the E. side . Opposite, a magni ficent Transition gateway (beside which are two window - arches of the same period ) admits us to the Crypt of Our Lady. In the pavement are 21ancient tombs (8th cent. ? ), hewu in sandstone and covered with reddish mortar, not unlike mummy-coffin's in shape. To the left is the Cellar, supported by three thick round columns. Grand Béguinage. GHENT. 7. Route. 47 > The old refectory, on the N. side of the cloister, is known as the Chapel of St. Macarius, because it was used for religious worship until the erection of the church of that name (Pl. E , 4) . The S. windows are Romanesque, but the N. windows were altered in the 15th century. Several interesting frescoes were discovered here in 1889. In the vaults under the refectory are numerous old grave stones and other sculptures , a mosaic - pavement ofthe13th cent. , etc. Continuing to follow the Rue d'Anvers ( p. 46 ) and the Chaussée d'Anvers (tramway to the Station du Pays deWaes, comp. p . 34 and Pl. E, 3, 4 ), and then turning to the right by the narrow Õostacker Straat, we reach the Grand Béguinage (Begynhof ; Pl . E, 3 , 4), a large nunnery, the foundation of which dates from the 13th cent. (1234-35 ). The name is derived by some authorities from St. Begga, themother of Pepin of Heristal , and by some from Le Bègue, a priest of Liège ( end of the 12th cent. ) ; while others connect it with beggen, to beg. The ob jects promoted by the Béguinages are a religious life , works of cha rity (tending the sick ) , and the honourable self -maintenance of women of all ranks . These institutions have passed almost scathless through the storms of centuries . Joseph II . spared them , when he dissolved the other religious houses, and they also remained unmolested during the French Revolution, their aim having steadfastly been the ' support of the needy and the care of the sick .' There are at present about twenty Béguinages in Belgium , with about 1300 members, nearly 1000 of whom are in Ghent. With the exception of those at Amsterdam and Breda, these nun neries are now confined to Belgium , though at one time they were com mon throughout the districts of the lower Rhine. The members of the Béguinages are unmarried women or widows of unblemished character, and pay a yearly board of at least 110 fr ., besides an entrance -fee of about 150 fr. for the maintenance of the dwellings and the church. Two years of novitiate must be undergone before they can be elected as sisters . They are subject to certain conventual regulations, and are bound to obey their superior, the Groot Juffrouw or Grande Dame ( whom they elect themselves) , but are unfettered by any irrevocable vow. It is , however, a boast of the order that very few of their number avail themselves of their liberty to return to the world. (When a member leaves the order, her entry -money is returned to her. ) The younger Sisters live together in the convents, where they spend such time as they are not in church, in working in common (lace -making, etc.). After having been members for three years , however, they have the option of retiring to one of the separate dwellings, which contain rooms for two to four occupants. The doors of these houses are inscribed with numbers and the names of tutelary saints . In many cases the Béguines have the society of other women who are not members of the order, such as an aged mother, or other friend or relative, whose board forms a small addition to their funds. The Sisters must attend divine worship twice or thrice a day, the first service being at 5 a.m.; and the last at Vespers, the hour of which varies according as it becomes too dark for the fine work of the nuns. The latter service, known as “ lof or ' salut des Béguines presents a very picturesque and impressive scene, when the black robes ( failles ) and white Îinen head- gear of the Sisters are dimly illuminated by the evening light and a few lamps. Novices have a different dress , while those who have been recently admitted to the order wear a wreath round their heads . The *GRAND BÉGUINAGE, the removal of which from its former position near the Porte de Bruges was necessitated by the con struction of some new streets , was transferred in 1875 to the site 48 Route 7 . GHENT. St. Michael's Church . secured for it on the N.E. of the town through the influence of the Duc d'Arenberg. The Béguinage forms a little town of itself, enclosed by walls and moats , with streets , squares, gates, 18 con vents , and a church , the last forming the central point of the whole. The houses , though nearly all two- storied Gothic brick buildings , present great variety of appearance and form a very picturesque ensemble. The Béguinage was planned by the architect Verhaegen . This Béguinage contains about 700 members, beautiful speci mens of whose lace ( Kanten ) may be obtained from the Groot Juffrouw , opposite the entrance of the church, at much more reasonable prices than in the town. In the MARCHÉ AUX GRAINS ( Koornmarkt ; Pl . C, 4) rises the Church of St. Nicholas (Pl . 10), the oldest in Ghent. It was founded early in the 10th cent. , but the greater part of the present building, which in the main is in the early- Gothic style , probably dates from the beginning of the 13th century . The main tower contains a fine hall in the Transition style. The ten turrets on the lower part of this tower have given rise to the ' bon mot' : ' L'église a onze tours et dix sans (same pronunciation as cents) cloches ' . The INTERIOR has been modernised. Most of its venerable treasures of art disappeared from the church during the religious wars and the wild excesses of the iconoclasts , but have been partly replaced by modern works. High- altarpiece by N. Roose ( Liemaeckere ), Call of St. Ni cholas to the episcopal office . 2nd Chapel, to the right : Maes- Canini, Madonna and Child with St. John. 3rd Chapel, on the left : Steyaert, Preaching of St. Anthony. An inscription under a small picture on an opposite pillar in the nave records that Oliver Minjau and his wife are buried here, ende hadden tezamen een en dertich kinderen (i.e. , they had together one-and- thirty children) . When Emp. Charles V. entered Ghent, the father with twenty-one sons who had joined the procession attracted his attention (1526 ). Shortly afterwards, however, the whole family was carried off by the plague. The other pictures include specimens by J. van Cleef and Van den Heuvel. The stained glass in the windows of the choir is by Capronnier and Laroche, 1851 . On the Graslei, or Quai aux Herbes ( Pl. C, 4 ), behind the W. side of the Corn Market , there are several interesting old buildings. The handsome * Skipper House (No.15) , the finest Gothic guild - house in Belgium , was erected in 1531 by the Guild of the Skippers . The Staple House is in the Romanesque style. St. Michael's Church (Pl . 9 ; C , 4), a handsome Gothic edifice begun in 1445 (nave completed 1480, tower unfinished ), was em ployed in 1794 as a “ Temple of Reason ' , and lost most of its trea sures of art at that period . The pictures which it now contains are, with the exception of a few by Vænius, Van Dyck, De Crayer, etc. , productions of the first half of the present century. The modern stained - glass windows are by Capronnier. ( Sacristan 1 fr ., more for a party .) The * INTERIOR, where the red brick vaulting forms an effective con trast with the white walls and pillars , is undergoing a complete restoration. Oudeburg. GHENT. 7. Route, 49 N. AISLE , first entered in approaching from the bridge : 4th Chapel: Vaenius, Raising of Lazarus. 2nd : De Crayer, St. Bernhard , St. Joseph , and St. George worshipping the Trinity . 1st : Van Balen, Assumption. The * Pulpit by J. Franck, 1846, a masterpiece of taste and execution, rests on the trunk of a fig- tree in marble ; Christ healing a blind man forms the principal group below; the staircase railings are of mahogany. South AISLE. 3rd Chapel : Model of the tower as originally designed . Van Bockhorst, Conversion of St. Hubert. S. TRANSEPT. François, Ascension ; Lens, Annunciation. N. TRANSEPT: * Van Dyck's celebrated Crucifixion, painted in 1644 for the Fraternity of the Holy Cross in Ghent in six weeks, for 800 fl. A man extends the sponge to the Saviour with a reed ; John and the Maries below , weeping angels above. Paelinck , Finding of the Cross by the Empress Helena. Choir . To the right, 2nd Chapel: Van der Plaetsen , The Pope ex horting Louis XI. to submit to the will of God, painted in 1838; Spagno letto , St. Francis. 3rd : * De Crayer, Assumption of St. Catharine, one of the master's best works . 4th : Ph . de Champaigne, Pope Gregory teaching choristers to sing . 5th : Van Mander, St. Sebastian and S. Carlo Borromeo. 6th , at the back of the high - altar: Van Bockhorst, Allegory, Moses and Aaron typical of the Old Testament; St. John , St. Sebastian, and the Pope typical of the New . 7th : Maes-Canini, Holy Family. 9th: Seghers , Scourging of Christ. 10th : Th. v. Thulden , Martyrdom of St. Adrian . 11th : De Crayer, Descent of the Holy Ghost. Adjoining the Marché aux Grains , on the N. , lies the MARCHÉ AUX HERBES ( Groenselmarkt) , on the left of which rises the exten sive Grande Boucherie ( Groot Vleeschhuis , Pl . 16 ; C , 4), erected in 1408-17 , but of no architectural merit. An interesting mural painting in oil , executed by Nabur Martins in 1448 ( freely painted over) , was discovered in the old chapel of the building in 1854. The iron rings and collars on the exterior wall to the right are mementoes of the public executions and tortures which formerly took place here. The same association is commemorated in the name of a small adjacent café, Café de la Potence or t’ Galgen huis . The members of the Ghent Guild of Butchers were known as 'Prinse Kinderen' (Prince's children), being the descendants of Charles V. and the pretty daughter of a butcher , who secured for her son and his descendants the sole right of slaughtering and selling meat in the city. The son of the emperor had four children , the an cestors of the four families of Van Melle , Van Loo, Minne, and Deynoot, of whom alone the guild consisted down to 1794. Crossing the bridge to the left, we reach the PLACE STE. PHARAILDE, which is surrounded with quaint mediæval buildings . The Gateway in the corner to the left, erected in imitation of one on the same site by Arthus Quellin , which was burned down in 1872, and adorned with sculptures by De Kesel (Neptune, the Schelde, and the Lys) , leads to the Marché aux Poissons (Pl . 19 ; C, 4) . · On the N. side of the Place, at the corner of the Rue de la Monnaie, the Oudeburg (Gravenkasteel , s'Gravensteen , Château des Comtes ; Pl . 2 ; 0, 3), a massive old castellated - looking gateway, with loop holes , rises among a number of modern houses. It is a remnant of the ancient palace of the Counts of Flanders , where Edward III . with his Queen Philippa were sumptuously entertained by Jacques BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. 4 50 Route 7 . GHENT. Museum . van Artevelde in 1339, and where their son John of Gaunt (i . e . , Gand or Ghent) was born in 1340. It was afterwards the seat of the council of Flanders, appointed by Philippe le Bon of Burgundy about the middle of the 15th century. The palace was built in 868, but the gateway next the two octagonal towers not before 1180. In 1780, under Maria Theresa, the castle was sold and converted into a factory, around which numerous workman's dwell ings gradually clustered . It is now about to be laid open and restored. On entering by the gate in the Rue de Monnaie( see above) we see to the right the remains of the old keep or donjon (9th cent.?), adjoining which is an elegant Romanesque arcade of the 12th cen tury. Behind the donjon are the remains of the chapel (?), with two Romanesque pillars ; and here and there traces of the battle mented walls may still be made out. A subterranean passage, 21/2 M. in length , leading to a point outside the city, is said to have existed and to have been employed for admitting soldiers to the castle in case of an emergency. The adjacent Rue du Vieux Bourg, at the end of the Pont du Laitage ( p. 45), a bridge which crosses to the Marché du Vendredi, contains two interesting houses of the 17th cent. , embellished with numerous terracotta reliefs (one of them called ' den vliegenden Hert' ). The old Carmelite church, in the Rue Longue des Pierres , is now occupied by the new municipal *Musée d'Archéologie, with interesting collections of industrial art. Adm . free on Sun., 10-1 , and on Thurs. 2-5 ( Sept. 16th to April 30th, 2-4 ); on other days 9-12 and 12.30-6 ( in winter 10-12 and 2-3), 50c., catalogue 75c. One of the most interesting and complete collections is that of wrought iron objects, including locks, keys , door- hinges, waffle-irons, caskets of the 15th cent. , weights,measures, surgical instruments of the 16th and 17th cent. , etc. Among the other objects ofinterest are the large sepulchral brasses of Guillaume de Wenemaer (d . 1325 )and his wife , with deeply engraved portraits ; Brussels carpets with designs representing mythological scenes ( 18th cent . ) ; chased *Badges of massive silver ( 15th cent.) , formerly borne by the ambassadors of Ghent ; the chased and silver- gilt insignia of the guilds of the town ; standards of the 16th cent . ; carved doors and window frames ; chests of the most diverse character ; costumes of the time Louis XV. and Louis XVI.; and an extensive collection of knives and forks of the 16th and subsequent centuries ; executioners' swords , instru ments of torture, etc. Among the historical paintings are : Baptism of Charles V. ( 1500 ) ; also , De Crayer, Francis I. surrendering his sword to Lannoy at the battle of Pavia in 1525 ; Charles V. landing in Africa ; Charles V. and his brother Ferdinand ; three pictures painted for the triumphal arch at the entry of Ferdinand ; J. B. van Volxsom ( d . 1732) , Charles VI. receiving homage in the Marché de Vendredi ( p. 45) in 1717. In the Rue Ste . Marguerite (No. 5), which forms a continuation of the Rue de la Monnaie, is situated the Royal Academy of Art, established in the old Augustine Monastery, adjoining the incon siderable AugustineChurch (P1.4 ; C, 3), and containing the Museum , with about 250 pictures. There are no works of pre- eminent merit, but the collection is worth a visit. Among the old works , besides a specimen of Rubens, are several by G. de Crayer, who migrated . ) Museum . GHENT. 7 , Route. 51 from Brussels to Ghent in the latter part of his life, and died here in 1669 at the age of 87. The collection is arranged on the second floor, and is open to the public gratis on Sun. and holidays (10-1) andThurs. (9-1 and 2-5 ) ; at other times 50 c. ( concierge at No. 7 ). Room I. To the left : * 94 . Fr. Pourbus, Isaiah announcing to Heze . kiah his recovery, with the miracle of the sun going ten degrees back ward ; on the wings a Crucifixion and the donor, the Abbot del Rio ; on the outside , Raising of Lazarus, in grisaille . 51. M. de Vos, Holy Family. Also several good works by unknown masters. To the right Room II . (large , and lighted from the roof). To the left : 47. Peter Neefs the Elder, Peter liberated from the prison ; 15. De Crayer, St. John in Patmos ; 45. G. Maes, St. Nicholas ( 1689) ;, * 18 . De Crayer, Solomon's Judgment, one of the artist's masterpieces; 1. Th . Boeyermans, Vision of St. Mary Magdalene de' Pazzi; 75. Th. van Rombouts, Allegorical represen tation of Justice , formerly in the Hôtel de Ville ; 2 Th. Boeyermans, S. Carlo Borromeo dispensing the Sacrament to persons stricken with the plague ; 39. Jan van Cleef, Holy Family, with the Infant Saviour crown ing Joseph with a wreath of roses ; 19. De Crayer, Martyrdom of St. Bla sius (his last work, painted in 1668 at the age of 86 ); * No number, De Crayer, Martyrdom of St. Laurence, one of the best works of this master, who is excellently represented in Ghent; 38. Peter Thys, St. Sebastian receiving the martyr's palm from angels ; 13. De Crayer, Tobias with the Archangel Raphael ; 56. W. Heda , Still -life; 17. De Crayer, Resurrection; No number, Artois , Landscape ; 10. Adr. van Utrecht, Fishmonger ; * 9. Rubens, St. Francis receiving the stigmata , painted in 1632 for the Fran ciscan Church at Ghent, and similar to the picture in the Museum of Cologne ; * 14 . De Crayer, Coronation of St. Rosalia ; 11. Duchatel, Pro cession in the Marché du Vendredi, at the reception of Charles II. of Spain as Count of Flanders ( 1666 ; in the middle of the foreground is a portrait of the artist , holding a paper) ; 12. Verhaghen , Presentation in the Temple; 22. De Crayer, The Virgin handing the scapulary to St. Simon Stock ; * 76 . Th. van Rombouts, The five senses; M. Coxie, Last Judgment ; No number, Van Dyck, Portrait of himself, in grisaille ; 4. Jordaens, St. Am brose; No number, Hondecoeter, Pelican and other foreign birds; 82. P. van den Avont, Holy Family in a landscape, surrounded by angels . In the middle of the room : 95. Fr. Pourbus, Large winged altarpiece, with 22 scenes from the life of Christ ; on the back , the Last Supper. Félicien Bouré, Boy lying in wait for a lizard (marble) ; J. Joris, 'Mon Cavalier '; P. Comein , Girl with a doll ( marble) ; Devigne -Quyo, Eve and the Serpent ( plaster) . On the other side of the entrance - hall are two rooms with modern pictures. Room III. 172. H. Pille, Festival in Brittany ; X. de Cock, Cows Josselin de Jong, The petition ; M. Müller ( Düsseldorf), Norwegian land scape ; Devigne, Mediæval fair ; C. Richter, Truands et Ribaudes' (after Victor Hugo ; 1892) ; Gabriel , Canal; Gerard, ' A la santé du Pasteur ! ' ; 152. Verboeckhoven, At pasture (1799) ; A. Roll, Bacchic dance ; Gussow (Ber lin ), Return of the soldier; Coosemans, ' La mare aux corbeaux '; Verhas, The little painter; Maes- Canini, Juno ; Rosseels, Moonlight-scene. Room IV. To the left, P. Parrot, Spring ; Prion, Bacchante and young satyr; Meunier, Lamentation for Stephen the martyr ; 155. Robert, ‘Un regret ( 1849) ; T. van Luppen , Scene in Luxembourg ; Tytgadt, Death of St. Stephen ; Karel de Kesel, Maiden entering her bath ; Delvin , Fishermen ; Sigard, Servant plucking a goose; Cogen, Stranded ship ; 178. De Braekeleer, Peasants quarrelling; Vanaise, St. Livinus giving sight to the blind ; Bource , Cherries ripe ; De Biefve, Widow of Count Egmont; Meckel, Eastern land scape; L'Hermite, Grandmother's precepts; Picque, Hebe. The neighbouring street, Cour du Prince (Pl. B, C, 3), derives its name from the old palace of the Counts of Flanders (p. 37) of which the only relic is a gateway under a recently restored build ing, in the direction of the Rabot. - A little farther on is the 3 4* 52 Route 7. GHENT. Casino. Quai du Rabot, leading to the small fort, with two towers , called Le Rabot (Pl. B, 3). Here in 1488 the army of Emperor Frede rick III., advancing to support the claims of his son Maximilian ( p. 22), made an assault which was successfully resisted The old Flemish inscription on the outside of the gate records the bravery of the guilds which fought under Duke Philip of Cleve . On the right bank of the Coupure, a canal completed in 1758, connecting the Lei with the great Bruges Canal ( pleasant promenade in the evening), is situated the handsome Casino (Pl . B, 4, 5), built in 1835 by L. Roelandt. Open- air concerts ( military band ) are held in summer in the large garden . The Casino belongs to a horticultural society (Maatschappy van Kruidkunde), and is employed for the famous flower- shows of Ghent, which were established in 1808 and occur twice a year. Ghent, which is not unfitly surnamed ' La Ville de Flore', has a specialty for horticulture, and annually exports whole cargoes of camellias, azaleas , orange-trees , and other hot house plants to Holland, Germany, France, Russia, and America . In April and May the hyacinths and tulips are at their best. The cultivation of orchids also flourishes . There are upwards of eighty nursery-gardens in the environs of the city, the most important of which is that of L. van Houtte, in Gentbrugge ( tramway from the Kouter to Ledeberg, then to the left of the terminus and past the stables ; Pl . E, 6) . Visitors are readily admitted . Nearly opposite the Casino, on the other side of the canal, rises the Maison de Force (Rasphuis, Pl. A , B , 4), a prison formerly of Euro pean celebrity. The building was begun under Maria Theresa in 1772, but not completed until 1825. A new wing has lately been erected , which contains 158 cells for confinement on the Auburn , or silent, system . It is adapted for prisoners to whom absolutely solitary con finement is unsuited . Near this is a new prison , the Maison de Sûreté, with 325 cells , accommodating 420 convicts. Belgium has perhaps done more for the reform of the Prison System than any other country. The strict separation of the convicts . by day and night, at work , at meals, at church , in the schools, or at exercise in the prison court, has been adopted throughout the land. The efforts made for the mental and moral improvement of the inmates merit all praise. The most important establishments next to those at Louvain and Ghent are the prisons at Antwerp, Mons, Arlon, Tournai , and Malines. Visitors (with the exception of superior prison officials) are not admitted without permission from the Minister of Justice at Brussels . As we follow the Coupure to the left ( S.E.) to its junction with the Lei (see above), we see on the right the Blind Asylum ( Hospice des Aveugles ; Pl. 6,5), a red brick building, behind which liesthe extensive new Civil Hospital ( Hôpital Civil ; Pl. B ; C, 6) , named after the former abbey of Biloque, which was founded in the 13th cent. (adm . Quai de la Biloque 4 ; ring) . In the interior to the right are the offices, nearly opposite which is the house of the Sisters of Charity, two brick and stone buldings of the 17th century . To the right of the former is the old Abbey Church ( 13th cent . ), with

Kouter.. GHENT. 7. Route. 53 an elegant double gable. The interior is divided into sick-wards , from the long corridor connecting which we may inspect the huge timber roof, like an inverted ship’s hull. Behind the house of the Sisters of Charity, to the left (W.) , in the corner of the large vegetable garden , is the very interesting brick *Gable of the former Refectory , also dating from the 13th cent. ( visible also from the Boulevard des Hospices) . This and the adjoining building are now used as a Hospice for Old Men (Oudmannekenshuis ; entrance Boul. des Hospices 2 ; small present to the hospice). In the interior of the refectory , which is divided by a structure of 1715, the ribs of the almost unaltered timber roof still retain the original colouring (red, yellow, blue, and white ). On the end-walls are frescoes of the 13th cent.: on the N. , Christ with the Lamb and St. Christopher ; on the S. , Christ blessing a woman ( perhaps the foundress Gertrude Utenhove ; comp. p . xxxix). Among the other Wall-paintings in Ghent which are of interest to the student of art are those in the Abbey of St. Bavon ( 12th cent. ; p. 40) ; the copies in the Archæological Museum ( p. 50 ) of the representations of the Ghent militia (14th cent.), formerly in the old chapel known as the Leughemeete ; and the paintings in the old Boucherie (15th cent. , p. 49) . Beyond the neighbouring Pont de la Maternité is the Parc de la Citadelle, laid out on the site of the works of the citadel, built after 1815. A monument consisting of a negro seated upon a rock commemorates the brothers Van de Velde, natives of Ghent , who died on the Congo (1882 and 1888) . No. 178 in the Rue de Courtrai, which leads hence back to the town, is the Schreiboom chapel ( Pl. 13 ; C, 6) , with pictures of children ( from the 15th cent. down to the present time) who have been restored to health in the hospital with which it is connectel. The Kouter, or Place d'Armes (Pl . C, 5) , is a large open space planted with a double row of lime- trees, where a band plays on Sunday mornings and Wednesday evenings in summer. On Sunday morn ings an abundantly supplied flower -market is held here . On the E. side of the Kouter is the Café des Arcades , said to occupy the site of the house of the brothers Hubert and Jan van Eyck , where they painted their celebrated picture . On the Kouter are the two hotels mentioned at p. 36, and also the four largest clubs of Ghent. The S.W. corner is occupied by the Theatre ( Pl. 25 ; C, 5), erected by Roelandt in 1848. The Palais de Justice (Pl. 21 ; C, 5) , an imposing edifice by Roelandt, completed in 1846, is bounded on two sides by the Lys. The chief façade to the N. has a Corinthian portico, and is approached by a lofty flight of steps . The Salle des Pas Perdus ( 85 yds. long , 25 yds . wide) , usually entered by a flight of steps from the Rue du Commerce , contains a few modern paintings : Math. van Brée , Conclusion of the Pacification of Ghent in the Hôtel de Ville ; opposite, L. de Taeye, Charles Martel's victory over the Saracens near Poitiers ( 132) ; C. Montald , Struggle for existence, a large 54 Route 7 . GHENT. St. Pierre. allegorical subject; Van Severdonck, Cavalry - skirmish between Flemings and Spaniards. The Place des Récollets , in front of the Palais de Justice , is em bellished with a statue of Metdepenningen (d. 1881 ), advocate and leader of the liberals of Ghent. The University (Pl . C, 4), another edifice by Roelandt, has its façade, with a Corinthian peristyle, towards the Rue des Foulons. The Aula, reached through a covered court and a vestibule, which is adorned with frescoes by Alfr. Cluysenaar ( Henry IV. at Canossa, Leaders of the Reformation, Renaissance, and French Revolution ), is a rotunda supported by marble columns in the style of the Pan theon, and capable of containing 1700 persons . The inscription on the chief façade records the foundation of the building under Wil liam I. , in 1826. The Natural History Museum is a collection of some merit . An Ecole du Génie Civil and an Ecole des Arts et Manufactures are connected with the university. The number of students is about 900. Among the teachers who have shed lustre on this university , founded like those of Liège and Louvain in 1817, are Jos. Plateau ( d. 1883 ), the physicist; Fr. Laurent (p . 38) and Haus (d. 1880), the jurists ; Guislain (d . 1860 ),the philosopher; and Fr. Huet, the philosopher, who died in 1869 as tutor to king Milan of Servia. The narrow Rue de la Crapaudière, to the E. of the university, tra verses the site of the garden of Jacob van Artevelde ( p . 45) , who was assassinated on the spotnow occupied by Klaus's restaurant (p. 36) . In the upper part of the town beyond the Schelde , to the S., in the Rue Plateau , rises the Institut des Sciences (Pl . C , 5 , 6 ), completed in 1890 after plans by Ad. Pauli. Next to the Palais de Justice at Brussels, this is the largest architectural work in Bel gium, and covers nearly 31/2 acres of ground . It contains the lec ture -rooms and laboratories of the university faculty of physical science and of the technical schools connected with the university. No. 9 in the neighbouring Rue Guinard is the Beroeps or Ambacht School, attended by about 100 apprentice tumers, joiners , lock smiths, blacksmiths, etc. The Church of St. Pierre ( Pl. 11 ; D, 6), picturesquely situated on a height at the S. extremity of the town, is said to have been founded in 610 on the site of a temple of Mars. It has been several times renewed, andafter its destruction by the iconoclasts in 1578 was rebuilt in 1629-1718 from plans by Van Sante . The interior contains a few pictures. South AISLE: N. Roose ( Liemaeckere), Nativity of Christ; Er. Quel lin the Younger, Triumph of the Catholic religion. NORTH AISLE : Van Thulden, Pictures representing the triumph of Roman Catholicism (copies of paintings by Rubens, now lost). — RETRO- Choir, to the right: A. Janssens, Liberation of Peter ; Van den Avont, Holy Family, withdancing angels; Janssens, Miraculous Draught of Fishes, as an accessory to a large land scape. Also five small pictures by Van Doorselaer, of the period of the Spanish supremacy, illustrative of the virtues of the miraculous image of the Virgin on the altar. On the other side : Seghers, Raising of Laza rus; De Crayer, St. Benedict recognising the equerry of the Gothic King Totilas ; Reysschoot (d . 1795 ), Landscape, the healing of a blind man as 3 DEYNZE. 8. Route. 55 accessory; Janssens, Landscape with two hermits . Isabella, sister of Charles V. , and wife of Christian II . of Denmark, is interred in this church, but no monument marks the spot. The open space in front of the church has been formed by the demolition of part of the old abbey-buildings . Another part serves as a barrack. The landlord of the barrack- canteen shows a fine 15th cent. cloister ( fee ). Ghent, like Antwerp and Brussels, possesses its Jardin Zoo logique (Pl. D, 6), situated near the station of the government rail way (admission 1 fr. ). The interior of the neighbouring Church of St. Anne (Pl. 3 ; E, 5 ), erected from Roelandt's designs in 1853, is gaudily decorated by Canneel . The Rue Longue des Violettes, diverging to the W. from the church, leads to the * Petit Béguinage (Pl. E, 5, 6 ; comp. p. 47), which contains about 300 nuns, and has remained unaltered since the 17-18th cen turies. The scrupulously clean little houses are arranged round a rectangular grassy space planted with trees ; while another square block of similar houses with narrow lanes between adjoins. A dazzlingly white wall surrounds the whole. Each house has its own patron-saint, whose name is inscribed above the door. The church (17th cent.) occupies almost the entire N.E. side of the grassy space. The Convent ter Bloemen ( Couvent des Fleurs) is one of the most interesting of the convents here (comp. p . 48 ; ad mission easily obtained ). A pleasant drive (4-5 hrs.) may be taken to the S.W. from Ghent to the interesting castle of Oydonck, near the village of Bachte- Maria -Leerne ( Sterre Inn) . The castle , also reached on foot in 3/4 hr. from the station of Deurle (see below ) , was built in 1500 by Philip of Montmorency, partly destroyed in 1579, and frequently restored, finally in 1864. 60 c. ). 8. From Ghent to Courtrai and Tournai. Railway from Ghent to Courtrai ( 271/2 M.) in 11/4hr. ( fares 3 fr. 35, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 70 c .) ; from Courtrai to Tournai (201/2 M.) in 3/4-1 hr. ( 2 fr . 50, 1 fr. 90, 1fr . 25 c .; express fares 3 fr. 15, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 60 c . ). From Tournai to Brussels, see R. 11 . From Ghent to (6 M.) La Pinte , see p . 31. The line to Oude naarde, Leuze, and Mons here diverges to the left. From GHENT TO OUDENAARDE, 17 M., railway in 50 min. (fares 2 fr. 5, 1 fr . 55, 1 fr. 5 c.); to Leuze, 3612 M., ' in13/4 hr. ( 4 fr. 50 , 3 fr. 35, 2fr. 25 c. ) ; viâ St. Ghislain to Mons, 58 m. , in 31/4 hrs . ( 7 fr . 15, 5 fr. 40, 3 fr. Stations: Eecke- Nazareth, Gavére, Synghem , Eyne, andOudenaarde ( p . 33), the junction of the line from Brussels to Courtrai (R. 6). Then Leupeghem , Etichove, Louise -Marie, Renaix (where branches diverge to Courtrai and Bassilly , p. 70) , Anvaing, Frasnes, Leuze ( junction ofthe Brussels-Lille line, p. 69), Baśècles, Blaton ( p . 69) , Pommeroeul , St. Ghis lain (p. 180 ). 58 M. Mons, see p. 178. 8 M.Deurle ; 11 M. Deynze (route thence to Thielt and Ingel münster , see p. 31 ; steam - tramway to Oudenaarde see p. 33) ; 131/2 M.Machelen ; 151/2 M, Olsene ; 181/2 M. Waereghem , junction for the connecting line between Anseghem ( p. 34) and Ingelmünster (p . 33 ); 211/2 M. Desselghem ; 24 M. Harlebeke, where tobacco is extensively grown . 56 Route 8. COURTRAI. From Ghent 7 271/2 M. Courtrai, Flem . Kortryk (* Lion d'Or, moderate ; Hôtel du Damier, both in the Grande Place; Hôtel Royal and Hôtel du Midi, at the station ; opposite, Hôtel du Nord ; Rail . Restaurant ; Café Belge and Café Français , in the market- place), a manufacturing town with 29,400 inhab ., situated on the Lei (Lys) , is famous for its table - linen and its lace, in the manufacture of which 5000-6000 women are employed. The flax of Courtrai enjoys a high reputation , and is manufactured in various districts of Belgium, as well as in the town itself. It is prepared with great care and skill . After being cut , it is carefully sunned and dried , stored for a year, then steeped in the water of the Ley, and sent to the factory. About one- twentieth of the soil in the environs produces flax . There are also extensive bleaching -grounds in the vicinity . — Two or three hours suffice for seeing the town. The street (Rue du Chemin de Fer) running straight from the station , and then turning to the right , leads to the large market place (Groote Markt or Grande Place) where the town- hall rises on the left and the belfry on the right. The * Town Hall, erected in 1526-28 , has been completely restored since 1846 , and the façade embellished with statues in the original style . Two richly -decorated *Chimney-pieces in the interior are worthy of notice . One of them , in the Salle Eche vinale on the ground - floor, is adorned with the coats -of-arms of the allied towns of Ghent and Bruges, the standard-bearers of the knights of Courtrai, a figure of the Virgin , and statues of Archduke Albert and his wife. This room has been embellished with well painted frescoes from the history of Flanders by Guffens and Swerts, completed in 1875. The principal of these represent the Departure of Baldwin IX ., Count of Flanders , at the commencement of the fourth Crusade ( 1202) , and the Consultation of the Flemish leaders in the Court Room the day before the Battle of the Spurs, 1302 ( see p. 57). The other and more interesting chimney piece , in the Council Chamber upstairs, in the richest Flamboyant style, was completed before 1527. Two rows of well-executed sta tuettes represent the different Virtues and Vices : in the upper sec tion we see faith , humility , liberality , chastity , brotherly love, temperance , patience, and watchfulness ; in the middle section, idolatry , pride, avarice , voluptuousness , envy, gluttony, anger, and sloth. The reliefs below indicate the punishments which follow in the train of these vices . On corbels are placed statuettes of Charles V., the Infanta Isabella (on the right), and Justice (on the left). The walls are covered with large plans of the town and its juris diction ( ' castelany' ) , painted in oil ( 1641) . Nearly opposite the Town Hall rises the Belfry. We next proceed to ST. MARTIN'S CHURCH , the Gothic tower of which is visible from the Grande Place ; the nave was erected in 1390-1439, the transept about 1415. In 1862 the church was struck by lightning > to Tournai, COURTRAI. 8. Route, 57 and partly burned down, but it has since been restored . Beautiful W. portal. The handsome pulpit of carved wood and the beautiful ciborium in stone (in the choir, to the left) , executed in 1385, were saved from the fire. The left aisle contains a winged picture by B. de Ryckere ( of Courtrai ; 1587), representing the Descent of the Holy Ghost, the Creation , and Baptism . The Rue Notre-Dame leads from the market- place , opposite the Lion d'Or, to the church of Notre Dame, founded by Count Baldwin IX. of Flanders (p. 56) , and completed in 1211. The choir, which is decorated with marble , and the portal were rebuilt in the 18th century . The chapel behind the choir contains the * Raising of the Cross , one of Van Dyck's best pictures , unfortunately badly lighted ; resembling a Rubens in boldness of design , it is inferior in freshness of colour, but the profound expression of tenderness and pain depicted in the countenance of the Crucified are unsur passed. The altars to the right and left are adorned with good reliefs in marble of the 18th cent. ,, by Lecreux, representing St. Rochus among the plague - stricken, and Mary Magdalene with angels . The Chapel of the Counts on the right , added to the church in 1373 , is adorned with wall- paintings of the 14 th cent. , representing the counts and countesses of Flanders , recently restored by Van der Platz, who continued the series down to Emp. Francis II . The Last Judgment, on the W. wall of the chapel , is also by Van der Platz . Farther to the left , on the Lys , are two massive old bridge towers. In the Rue du Béguinage (No. 14), which leads from Notre Dame to St. Martin's , is a MUSEUM containing several good modern pictures (fee 25 c. ). The following are among the best : Nic. de Keyser, Battle of the Spurs (see below) ; L. Verboeckhoven , Sea-piece ; Robbe , Cattle ; Van Dewin , Grey horse ; Steinicke , Tyrolese landscape ; Dobbelaare , Memling in St. John's Hospital at Bruges (see p . 18 ). Below the walls of Courtrai, on 11th July , 1302, was fought the famous Battle of the Spurs, in which the Flemish army, consisting chiefly of weavers from Ghent and Bruges , under Count John of Namur and Duke William of Juliers , defeated the French under the Count of Ar tois . Upwards of 1200 knights and several thousand soldiers fell. The victors afterwards collected 700 golden spurs , an appendage worn by the French knights alone , and hung them up as trophies in a monastery church which has since been destroyed . A small Chapel outside the Ghent Gate , erected in 1831, marks the centre of the battle-field . From Courtrai to Brussels and to Ypres, see R. 6. — Courtrai is also connected by a branch - line with Renaix ( p. 55 ). At Courtrai the Tournai line quits the flat land and enters an undulating and picturesque district. The Flemish language gives way to the French. 31 M. Lauwe ; 35 M. Mouscron ( the s mute) , the Belgian douane for travellers arriving from France. From Mouscron ToLILLE, 11 M. , railway in 37 min. ( fares 2 fr . 20, 1 fr. 65, 1 fr . 20 c .). 34/2 M. Tourcoing ( Hôtel du Cygne), a busy manufactur ing town of 58,000 inhab., with a monument commemorating the defeat of the English and Austrians by Jourdain and Moreau in 1794. – 5 M, Roubaix 58 Route 9. TOURNAI. ( Hótel Ferraille), an important wool- combing and linen -manufacturing town, the population of which has risen during the present century from 8000 to 100,000 (comp. Baedeker's Northern France). — Near Croix - Wasquehal the train crosses the Roubaix Canal , which connects the Deule with the Schelde. 11 M. Lille , see p. 64. The next station , Herseaux - Estaimpuis , is connected by a branch- line with the railway from Renaix (p. 55) to Courtrai. Be tween Néchin and Templeuve the Belgian line quits the province of West Flanders for that of Hainault (Germ. Hennegau) . To the left rises Mont St. Aubert (p . 61 ) , 425 ft. in height , also called Ste . Trinité , from the small church on its summit. It is 4 M. distant from Tournai, and is much visited for the sake of the fine view it commands. Near Tournai the train crosses the Schelde, and finally stops on the handsome quay constructed by Louis XIV. > > Tournai. Arrival. The Station (Pl. D , 2, 3) , opened for traffic in 1879 , is a handsome building by Beyaert of Brussels . Hotels. HÔTEL DE L'IMPÉRATRICE ( Pl . a ; A, 3 ), Rue de Maux 12 ; HÔTEL PETITE NEF (Pl. C ; B, 2), Rue du Cygne 30 , R., L., & A. 2-4 , B. 1, D. 2, omn. 1/2fr .;Bellevue (Pl. d ;0, 2), Quai Þumon 6 ,withan estaminet, R. 11/2 fr . ; Hôtel MENU, Rue Royale 27 ( Pl . C, D , 3), moderate, HÔTELDES NEUF Provinces , Place Cromberg , both near the station . Table d'hôte in all at 1 p.m. Restaurants. Taverne Alsacienne and Restaurant Bavaro -Belge, in the Grande Place ; Taverne du Globe ( English beer ) and Café Vénitien , in the Rue Royale, near the new station ; all with good cuisine. About3-31/2 hrs. will suffice for a visit to the Cathedral, the Church of St. Quentin, and the pictures in the Hôtel de Ville . Tournai, Flem. Doornik , with 34,800 inhab ., the most important and prosperous town of Hainault, and one of the most ancient in Bel gium , was the Civitas Nerviorum of Cæsar, afterwards called Tur nacum. In the 5th century it was the seat of the Merovingian kings . At a later period the town belonged to France, but in 1525 it was united with the Spanish Netherlands in accordance with the Peace of Madrid. In 1581 Tournai was heroically defended against Alexander of Parma by the Princess d'Epinoy, who , al though wounded in the arm , refused to quit the ramparts, and did not surrender the fortress until the greater part of the garrison had fallen . In 1667 the town was taken after a protracted siege by Louis XIV. , who caused it to be fortified by Vauban, and in 1709 it was captured by the Imperial troops under Prince Eugene and the Duke of Marlborough. In 1745 Tournai again fell into the hands of the French, and in 1748 it was assigned to the Nether lands by the Treaty of Aix - la - Chapelle. The fortifications were de molished by Joseph II . in 1781, but were renewed in 1815-69 . The numerous sieges it has undergone have greatly altered the ex ternal appearance of the town, and have left little trace of its ven erable age, with the exception of a few interesting mediæval houses . The old walls have been converted into promenades. The preten der, Perkin Warbeck, was born here. . B TOURNAL . Square de la Reine 100 1 : 17.500 200 300 Xètres 400 1 varo Pont des Trous vtadur des Salinast ItR . Ancienne Ne Cow.de Ecoles commodates desalle Bou zu Dodane TER T2 . evartord R.Dore Rde Acne PL.Verte Plaine des Manceuvres Boulevard Bar a 2007 Place RETELE Grande Stallon ROva 3 23 combez dert anud MESNO Koreu Rue Du Hosp.des Isoeurd kield Charité ne chamoge Pl_dupan Barg we La cadencia аг Me Justice ders Varan bwe 1 ara KOITET Paples conemundes Caserne Casernes Infanterie wenn ME St Jean chemin de Gramont . B.3. 1.Archives eBureaudepoliceB. 3. 2. Athénée D.3. 3.Beffroi 4.Cathédrale B.3. 5.S! Brice C.3.4 . 6 6. S. Jacques B.2 . 7.5. Jean C.4.5. 8. S'Marguerite A.2. 9. Ste Marie -Madeleine B.1 . 10.S. Nicolas C.2. 11.5 . Piat B.4. А Geograph. Anstalt von Ecol natuto 12.S ! Quentin B.2.3 . 18.Poste B.3. 13.RédemptoristesBC.2. 19. Salle des Concerts 14.Etablis " des Arts et Redoutes. B.3.6 et Nétiers C4.20. Statue de la 15.Hôtel de Ville . A.34 , Princesse d'Epinoy B.3. 16.Musée d'histoire 21. Théâtre A.2 . naturelle A34.22 Monument du 17.Palais épiscopal B3. Mortier C.2. с D 6 Wagner & Debes, Lerp C. B

TOURNAI. 9. Route. 59 > Stockings, faïence, and carpets are the staple manufactures of Tournai. The latter are generally known as Brussels carpets . The art of weaving carpets is said to have been brought to Europe by Flem ings , who learned it from the Saracens at the time of the Crusades. Most of the carpets are made by the work-people in their own dwell ings , and as there are few large factories in the town , it presents a much cleaner and pleasanter appearance than the other large in dustrial towns of Belgium . The Schelde ( Escaut) divides the town into two nearly equal parts , of which that on the left bank is by far the busier and more important ; but considerable improvements have taken place on the right bank since the completion of the new railway-station . The handsome , broad Quays , planted with trees , contribute to render Tournai one of the pleasantest -looking towns in Belgium. The river is generally crowded with barges, most of which are laden with coal from the mines of Mons, and are bound for Ghent, etc. The * Cathedral ( Notre- Dame; Pl. 4 ; B , 3) , a noble example of the Romanesque style, rises conspicuously above the houses on the left bank. It is a cruciform basilica borne by pillars , with a retro choir and radiating chapels, and has five towers above the cross and two on the façade. The nave , which was not vaulted until the 18th cent. , dates from the middle of the 12th , and was consecrated in 1213. The transept was erected in the 13th cent. by French masters , on the model of the Cologne churches . The beautiful Gothic choir is of later date, and was consecrated in 1338, and the façade , originally Romanesque , was altered and provided with a porch in the pointed style about the same period (comp. p. xxxvii). Among the sculptures in the porch, which were executed at various periods from the 13th to the 17th century , are interesting reliefs representing the Creation , Fall , and Expulsion from Paradise, by sculptors ofTournai, dating from about the year 1200 ( see p. xxxix ). The INTERIOR was purged in 1852 of the unsuitable additions with which it had been disfigured in the course of centuries, and is now strikingly impressive. It consists of nave and aisles 136 yds . in length ; nave 78 ft. wide and 78 ft. high ; breadth of transept 73 yds.; height of choir 107 ft. The walls above the aisles are relieved by a triforium . The large chapel adjoining the left aisle was added in 1516-18 . The capitals of the pillars, which are asso ciated with columns, are particularly rich and varied . The propor tions of the transept are more graceful, and the galleries lower. The church contains a few pictures . In the first chapel ofthe S. ( right) AISLE, on the posterior wall , a Crucifixion by Jordaens. The chapel of the N. AISLE ( Chapelle Paroissiale de Notre-Dame), which contains some modern stained glass, is used for the ordinary services of the cathe dral, the choir being reserved for episcopal functions. In the TRANSEPT, right, a Holy Family with a glory of angels, painted by M. de Nègre in 1650. Most of the stained- glass windows were executed by Stuerbout of Haarlem about the year 1465. Their subjects refer to the history of the bishopric of Tournai, which received important privileges in the 6th cent. from King Chilperic for services rendered in his war 60 Route 9 . TOURNAI. Belfry. against his brother, the Austrasian monarch Sigebert ( right transept), and in the 12th cent. from Pope Eugenius III. (left transept). - The richly sculptured rood -loft, which separates the choir from the nave, executed by Corn . de Vriendt in the Renaissance style, with marble reliefs from the old and New Testament, was erected in 1566 ; it is surmounted by a large group in bronze by Lecreux, representing St. Michael overcoming Satan. The stained glass of the Choir by Capronnier is modern . RETRO-CHOIR, beginning on the left side of the rood - loft : Lancelot Blon deel , Judgment of Solomon , Visitation , Adoration, etc .; Gallait , Christ restoring the blind to sight, one of the master's earliest works. Farther on , adjoining the high-altar, is the Romanesque Reliquary of St. Eleu therius, the first Bishop of Tournai (6th cent.) , elaborately executed in silver-gilt in the year 1247, and adorned with the figures of the Twelve Apostles. At the back of the high -altar is a Pietà by Duquesnoy ( 17th cent.), above which is a bishop's tomb with recumbent figure, and two tablets with the names of all the bishops and canons of Tournai. On the other side of the high- altar is the Reliquary of St. Piat, of about 1280. - Then in the Chapel to the left, which is adorned with stained glass commemorating the Council of 1870, is a large picture by Rubens , Rescue of souls from Purgatory, a bold composition . The Sacristy contains a very valuable crucifix in ivory by Duquesnoy, a reliquary of the Merovingian period in the shape of a Greek cross, and an ivory diptych of the 11th century. Opposite the Episcopal Palace (Pl . 17 ; B, 3) is the public LI BRARY, containing about 8000 early printed works and 250 MSS. The Belfry (Pl . 3 ; B , 3), to the S.W. of the cathedral, dates from 1187, but was partly rebuilt in 1391 and restored in 1852 . The spire is modern . A set of chimes, placed in the tower in 1878, plays every half- hour. The ascent is recommended, particularly for the sake of the view of the cathedral (260 steps to the platform ; door- keeper at the entrance and custodian at the top , 25 c. each). The triangular GRANDE PLACE (Pl . B, 3) in the centre of the town is embellished with a Statue of Marie de Lalaing , Prin cess d'Epinoy (Pl. 20) , in bronze, designed by Dutrieux. The heroic lady is represented in complete armour, with a battle- axe in her hand, leading her fellow -citizens against the enemy (see p . 58) . To the S. of this statue is the former Cloth Hall ( Halle aux Draps) a Renaissance buildingof 1710, restored by Carpentier. On the first floor is the Municipal Picture Gaļlery. Among the ancient works are : Madonna , in the style of Blondeel ; Descent from the Cross , ascribed to Roger van der Weyden , St. Donatus by Ma buse (?), portraits by Van Oost , Van Baelen, etc .; Landscape by Van Thulden ; and an equestrian portrait of Louis XIV. by Lebrun. Among the modern works are : Gallait (b. at Tournai in 1810 ; d . 1887 ), Dead bodies of Counts Egmont and Hoorne; Van Sever donck , Defence of Tournai by the Princess d'Epinoy. In the E. and W. galleries is the Musée Archéologique, containing fine ivory carv įngs (Table XV. , Binding of a copy of the Gospels, 11th cent. ; Coronation of the Virgin , 14th cent.), works in metal, faïence, coins and MSS. with miniatures, including a psalter that belonged to Henry VIII. of England , a ‘ Livre d'Heures' of the 15th cent. , and the 'Roman de la Rose' ,7 of the 14th century . Catalogue 20 c . Hôtel de Ville . TOURNAI. 9. Route . 61 ܕ 7 On the N. side of the Place is situated the church of *St. Quentin (Pl. 12 ; B, 3), sometimes called ' La Petite Cathédrale ', a remarkably elegant structure,erected about the same period as the cathedral . The façade and interior form an excellent example of the transitional style. The large paintings (of little value) in the nave represent the Foundation of the Order of the Trinitarians for the purpose of ransoming Christian captives ( 1198 ), and the Battle of Lepanto (1571 ) . The stained glass is by Béthune (1858) . The priory - buildings of the suppressed Monastery of St. Martin , situated in a garden on the S.W. side of the town , now serve as the Hôtel de Ville (Pl . 15 ; A, 3 , 4 ), the tympanum of which con tains the arms of the town, a tower with three lilies . The church of St. Jacques (Pl. 6 ; B, 2 ), dating from the 12th and 14th cent. and recently restored by Bryenne, somewhat resem bles that of St. Quentin . St. Brice ( Pl . 5 ; C, 3 , 4) , a church of the 12th cent., on the right bank of the Schelde , contained the tomb of Childeric (d . 480 ; father of Clovis) , King of the Franks, which was discovered in 1653 on the destruction of a house adjoining the church . A number of interesting curiosities , most of which are now preserved in the National Library at Paris , were found in the coffin ; among them were upwards of 300 small figures in gold , resembling bees , with which the royal robes are said to have been decorated. Napoleon , on the occasion of his coronation , preferred them to the fleurs-de- lus as insignia of the imperial dignity . A clasp for fastening a cloak is still in the possession of the church and is exhibited in the sacristy, along with two silver cups and two reliquaries of the 14th century. Near the church of St. Brice are a few mediæval houses, ono known as the Maison Romaine. Another ancient edifice is the Tour de Henri VIII ., with two vanlted apartments, one above the other. The new Palais de Justice and the Theatre also deserve mention . The old bridge called Pont des Trous (Pl . C, 1 ) , which crosses the Schelde at the lower end of the town in three pointed arches, was built in 1290. Both ends are defended by strong towers. Near the bridge is the Square Du Mortier, which is embellished with a marble statue of B. Du Mortier (b . at Tournai in 1797 ; d. 1878) , the Belgian statesman and naturalist , executed by Fraikin and erected in 1883. Mont St. Aubert (p. 58 ), sometimes called Ste. Trinité from the small church of that name on the top, commands a very extensive panorama, although only 425 ft. in height, being the only eminence in the district, and is well worthy of a visit. The summit is about 4 M. distant. riage in 3/4 hr. (3-4 fr .). - The Pierre Brunehault, a huge monolith near Hollain , is possibly Druidical. Car 10. From Ghent to Antwerp. a. State Railway viâ Dendermonde and Puers. 43 M. RAILWAY in 11 /2-21/4 hrs. ( fares 5 fr . 15 , 3 fr . 90 , 2 fr . 60 c .; express 6 fr . 55 , 4 fr . 90, 3fr. 30 c. ) Ghent , see p . 34. The line crosses the Schelde. 21/2 M. Meirelbeke. On the other side of the Schelde is the quaint château 62 Route 10. DENDERMONDE. From Ghent > of Laerne, with towers dating from the 12th century. 4 M. Melle, the junction of the line to Charleroi and Braine - le - Comte (R. 20) . 6 M. Quatrecht. The train follows the winding course of the Schelde. 8 M. Wetteren . At ( 10 M.) Schellebelle our line diverges from that to Brussels viâ Alost (R. 3) . 121/2 M. Wichelen ; 14 M. Schoonaerde ; 16 M. Audeghem , beyond which the train crosses the Dendre. 18 M. Dendermonde , Fr. Termonde ( Plat d'Etain ; Aigle ; Demi- Lune ), a small fortified town (8300 inhab . ) at the confluence of the Dendre and Schelde. Louis XIV. besieged this place in 1667, but was compelled to retreat, as the besieged, by opening certain sluices, laid the whole district under water. The Emp. Joseph II. caused the fortifications to be dismantled in 1784, but they were reconstructed in 1822. The old church of Notre Dame possesses two good pictures by Van Dyck, a Crucifixion , and Adoration of the Shepherds ; also a work by De Crayer, and a Romanesque font of the 12th century . The Hôtel de Ville, which was originally the cloth-hall , dates , with its belfry, from the 14th century . Adjacent is the Grande Garde, or guard - house, with an octagonal tower and a rococo portico of the 18th century . FROM DENDERMONDE TO St. Nicolas , viâ lamme, 13 M., by railway in 45 min. (see p. 63) ; to LOKEREN, 9 M., in 1/2 hr. (see p. 63 ); to Alost, 712 M., in 25 min. (p. 10 ); and to Brussels, 20 M. , viâ Opwyck (p . 11) and Jette ( p. 11), in 3 /4-1 hr. At(21 M.) Baesrode the line to Malines diverges (see p. 135) . 24 M. Št . Amans- lez - Puers ; 27 M. Puers, where our line crosses that from Terneuzen to Malines (p . 135) . The train now traverses a marshy district and crosses the Rupel, which is formed about 21/2 M.to the E. by the union of the Dyle and the Nethe. 31 M. Boom, a town with 14,000 inhab. and numerous brick kilns, where our line crosses the line from Alost to Antwerp (see p. 11 ); 331/2 M.Reeth. 36 M. Contich, and thence to Antwerp, see p. 135. t b . Waesland Railway. 31 M. RAILWAY in 11 /4-2 hrs . , including the crossing of the Schelde at Antwerp ( fares 41/2, 3, or 2 fr . ) . ' Carriages bad . This is the direct route . Travellers from Ostend or Bruges intending to take this route, book to Ghent only, where they take a fresh ticket at the station of the Waesland line , 1 M. from that of the state - railway. The train starts from the Station d'Anvers. Immediately on the right is the new Béguinage (p. 47) . This line traverses the Waes land, or Pays de Waes, one of the most populous (about 700 pers . to the sq. M. ) , highly-cultivated , and productive districts in Europe, During the civil wars in Flanders , the Waesland was a sterile moor, but at the present day every square yard is utilised . The train tra verses arable land, pastures , gardens, woods, and plantations in rapid succession , while comfortable farm -houses and thriving vil lages are seen at intervals . It is said that the attention usually de voted to a garden or a flower - bed is here given to every field ; for the to Antwerp. ST. NICOLAS. 10. Route. 63 natural soil , being little better than sand , requires to be artificially covered with garden- soil . The agriculture of this tract is therefore worthy of the notice of farmers. In other respects the country is uninteresting . 4 M. Loochristy, with an old château ; 7 M. Beirvelde, with the fine modern Tudor château of the Countess de Kerchove de Den terghem . — 12 M. Lokeren ( Hôtel du Miroir, in the Grand Place ; Hôtel des Stations) is a manufacturing town with 17,500 inhabitants . The Church of St.Lawrence contains some ancient and modern works of art , and a famous pulpit by Verhaghen ( 1736). Extensive bleaching - grounds in the vicinity. Lokeren is the junction of the lines to Dendermonde and Alost (see p . 62 ), and to Selzaete (p . 10). – 151/2 M. Mille - Pommes. 191/2 M. St. Nicolas ( Quatre Sceaux, in the market, R. , L. , & A. 11/2-2 , B. 1 , D. incl. wine 31/2 fr .; Miroir ), a pleasant - looking town with 27,600 inhab . , is the busiest manufacturing place in the Waesland . In the market - place, 1/2 M. from the station, are situated the new Hôtel de Ville , a handsome building in the Flemish Gothic style , containing a collection of antiquities from the Waesland, and several medieval dwelling - houses. The Church of St. Nicolas was completed in 1696. The church of Notre Dame, built by Overstraeten in 1844, contains well-executed mural paint ings by Guffens and Swerts , the first attempts at frescoes in Belgium (p . 79) . – A branch- line runs from St. Nicolas to Hamme and Dendermonde (p. 62) . Near St. Nicolas the train crosses the Malines and Terneuzen railway (p . 135) . 22 M. Nieukerken . 251/2 M. Beveren , a wealthy village with 7000 inhab. and an interesting church, with a tomb of 1540, is not ed for its lace. 281/2 M. Zwyndrecht, where the train passes the outlying fort of that name on the right and a rampart extending to Fort Ste. Marie on the left. At Vlaamsch - Hoofd or Tête de Flandre, the tête-de -pont of Antwerp, on the left bank of the Schelde , a steam ferry - boat awaits the arrival of the train (p . 136) . During the Siege of Antwerp (1832 ) the Dutch succeeded in cutting through the embankment above Tête-de -Flandre, in consequence of which the entire surrounding district, lying considerably below high- water mark , was laid under water to a depth of 4 ft ., and remained so for three years, Twelve Dutch gunboats cruised over the fields and canals , cutting off all communication with the city in this direction . The rise and fall of the tide covered a vast area with sand ; and the once productive soil , becom ing saturated with salt- water, was converted into a dreary waste. Those parts from which the water was not thoroughly drained became un healthy swamps, a disastrous result of the war felt most keenly in the environs of the city , where land was of great value. Enormous sums were expended on the work of restoration ; the repair of the embank ment alone cost 2 million francs . Almost every trace of the calamity is now happily obliterated .

31 M. Antwerp, see p . 136 .

64 IL - 11. From London to Brussels viâ Calais . Via DOVER AND CALAIS Brussels is reached in 81/4 - 91/2 hrs .; sea passage 11/2 - 2 hrs. ( fares 21. 13s . and 21. ) . Luggage registered at London is not examined till the traveller arrives at Brussels, – [ From London to Brussels viâ Dover and Ostend 11. 198. 6d ., 11. 9s. and' 16s . Cd. — Comp. RR. 1 , 3. - Brussels may also be reached from London vià Antwerp by the Gen. Steam Nav. Co.'s steamers ( fares 16s . , 11s . ) or the ' Baron Osy ' ( fares 208. , 12s. ) twice or thrice weekly, direct from London to Antwerp ; or by the Gre: t Eastern Rail. Co.'s steamers six times weekly from Harwich .] Calais ( Terminus Hotel, at the Gare Maritime; H. de la Gare Centrale, at the Central Station ; Hôtel Meurice, Sauvage, Rue de Guise ; Dessin, Rue Neuve; English Church , Rue du Moulin -Brulé ), a fortified town with 58,710 inhab. ( including St. Pierre- lès- Calais ), has few attractions. The Harbour, the entrance to which is between two piers , has of late years been considerably deepened , and works are still in progress . There is a large new tidal- harbour with hand some stone quays, the N. side of which is set apart for the Dover mail and passenger steamers. Here is the new Gare Maritime, with the Terminus Hotel on the upper floor. About 260,000 travellers pass through the town annually . Calais contains about 1500 English residents, chiefly engaged in its extensive lace -manufactories. See Baedeker's Northern France. 26 M. St. Omer ( Hôtel de la Porte d'Or et d'Angleterre ; Hôtel de France ), the first important station , is a fortified town with 21,266 inhab . The Cathedral is a fine structure in the transitional style . The English Roman Catholic Seminary here , at which O'Connell was educated, has been abandoned. A number of English families reside at St. Omer for purposes of retrenchment and education . See Baedeker's Northern France. 38 M. Hazebrouck is the junction of this line with the railways N. to Dunkirk , N.W. to Ypres (p . 26), and S. to Amiens and Paris . 66 M. Lille. Hotels. HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE ( Pl. a ; E, 3), Rue Basse 30-32; HÔTEL DE FRANCE ( P ). b ; E, 3 ), Rue Esquermoise 77 ; HÔTEL DE FLANDRE ET D'ANGLETERRE (Pl . c ; F, 3), Place de la Gare ; GRAND HÔTEL DE LYON (Pl. d ; F , 4) , GRAND HÔTEL DE LILLE (Pl. e ; F, 3), in the Rue de la Gare ; SINGE D'OR, Place du Théâtre 36-38 (P ). F , 3 ). Rooms may also be obtained at the station ( dépendance of the Hôtel de l'Europe ; dear). Restaurants. Grand Café, Rue de la Gare 2 ; Divoir, Rue du Vieux Marché- aux-Poulets 15; Désiré, to the right of the theatre, opposite the Rue de la Gare , first floor. Cafés. Grand Café, see above ; Richard , in the Hôtel de Lyon , see above ; Café du Grand Hotel, to the right of the Hôtel de Lille ; Bellevue, in the Grande Place; Café Continental, Café du Boulevard, corner of the Rue Nationale and Boulevard de la Liberté. Brasserie Alsacienne, in the Grande Place. Cabs : per drive 11/4 fr . , per hr. 13/4 fr ., each succeeding hr. 11/2 fr. Tramways traverse all the principal streets ( fares 5-15 c. per ' section '). - Steam Tramway to Roubaix (p . 57); fares 75or 50 c . , return 1 fr. 10 or 80 c. Post Office ( Pl . E, 4) , Boulevard de la Liberté, near the Préfecture. Telegraph Office, Place de la République (Pl. E, 5 ) and at the station . American Consular Agent, M. C. D. Gregoire, Rue Jean Lavasseur . English Church, Rue Watteau, Boul. de Liberté ; se ices at 11 and 6.30 ; chaplain , Rev. W. Burnet, M. A. , Rue Jeanne d'Arc 16. Lille, originally l’Isle, Flem . Ryssel, the chief town of the French is BO du UMBERS . Mètres W03 rlle chemit Sentird.N.D.de vatte Route Brouette des Chemin d'Emmerin Graces 8 UTS cheminde Bargues d.l.pte Béthune Chemin de Fer de Béthune С B . Leipzig , Debes & Wagner par imprimé & Gravé B A LILLE Truy 1 20,000 : 1 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 80 0 tambers le Chemindes ière Gand 2 R.At. adeteine Chemin des Vicaires Roth 2 Cimetière de l'E'st : s !Maurice SIA MAURICE Rue Blanche Rue Rousselle be Rues Gabrie Dunkerque Calais dot ion do de Boubaix duChateau 3 Rue des zeus Casede Frattiyetle 109 au Guinguettes Roubaix Ние 4 R.deflers deerde de Tournai GARE s Voyageurs) TA Bourines Pott neWernier pledeTournai Notre-Dame the deFives 4 - tritte 6.Guillauz BueBernos les Rue de Fires rutrydstot ptesSoeurs des Pakres St Sauce S ! Sauveur FI Vg Els sligpital Sauveur Av .hlien Destre SqueRuäuftboiuly R.des. Processions Direct Fortificat er5 Realous XIV. Bouleva Louis XIV Chemin Licinat Nol hitau Ecole desArts et Metiers EV Boulevd du Marechal Vaillant en Gare aux Fue du Gak Balcom V. Marchandises Bdalusine wbourg devatetutenne Gare de Fives Rue Bellevue Long Pana Vieur mur de Valenciennes 6 Rue o R 10 de Cambrai rte de Palenciennes liberige R.dralenciennes " Rue to Tournai Valenciennes Rianne Philippe de Comines OHAR de Trévise Rues de Trevise Ronchin xd de Belfort Ruedesaur dlain Sifoni line € hamn. nch LILLE. 11. Route. 65 Département du Nord , with 188,270 inhab . , was formerly capital of Flanders , but was taken by Louis XIV . in 1667, and was finally awarded to France by the Peace of Utrecht in 1713. It is a fortress of the first class, and is situated in a well- irrigated and fertile plain on the Deule , a navigable river with which numerous canals are connected . In 1856 the population numbered 78,000 souls, but it has more than doubled since the extension of the fortifications in 1858. Since that period numerous handsome streets and squares have sprung up , particularly on the S. side of the town , to the right of the station . Lille is a very important manufacturing place . Its staple commodities are linen and woollen goods , cotton , cloth , ' Lille thread ', machinery, oil , sugar, and chemicals . Leaving the station (Pl. F, 3), we proceed in a straight direction to the Theatre (Pl. F, 3), turn to the left through the Rue des Man neliers, passing the Bourse (Pl . F, 3) , the court of which contains a bronze statue of Napoleon I. by Lemaire (1854) , and soon reach the GRANDE PLACE, a Column in the centre of which commemorates the gallant defence of the town against the Austrians in 1792. On the side of the Place opposite the Rue des Manneliers rises the Hôtel de Ville (Pl. F, 4 ), erected since 1846 in the Renais sance style, and containing the Bibliothèque Communale ( open daily ), a valuable * Picture Gallery, an Ethnographical Collection, and a * Collection of Drawings, the last of which is the most im portant in France after that of the Louvre. The collections are on the second floor, and are open to the public daily, 10-5 in summer, and 10-4 in winter (Tues. 10-12). Entrance on the left side of the building, where a staircase ascends . Catalogue of the picture - gallery 11/4 fr.; of the drawings 13/4 fr. The * PICTURE GALLERY, one of the largest in France out of Paris, embracing about 850 works, is arranged in ten large rooms on the second floor. The titles of the pictures and the names of the artists are attached to each work. We turn to the left . RoomI. No. 22. Canaletto, View in Venice; 494. Saracino, Flight into Egypt ; * 179. G. Dughet, surnamed Poussin , Scene in the Campagna ; 518. Spada, Temptation of Joseph ; 210. School of Botticelli, Madonnaand Child ; 440. Guido, Sibyl; * 233 . Dom . Ghirlandajo, Madonna and Child , a finely executed school- piece ; 310. Lanfranco, St. Gregory ; 536. Tiarini, Rinaldo and Armida ; 423. Leandro Bassano, Christ expelling the money - changers; 831. Solimena, Apotheosis of St. Thomas Aquinas ; 545. Andrea del Sarto, Madonna and Child , with St. John and three angels ; 99. Paolo Veronese, Christ at the Sepulchre ; * 414 . Piazzetta (Venice, d . 1754), Assumption of the Virgin ; 546. Andrea del Sarto, Madonna and Child , with St. John ; * 649. L. Zustris (of Amsterdam , a pupil of Titian) , Judith ; 832. Theotocopuli, ' il Greco' , St. Francis ; 117. Cignaroli (Verona, d . 1770), Death of Rachel ; no number, Andrea del Sarto , Madonna and Child with St. John ; Bassano, 422. Marriage at Cana , 420. Crown of Thorns ; 822. Ribera , St. Jerome; 650. Zustris , Christ appearing to Mary Magdalen ; 500. Schiavone, Esther before Ahasuerus ; 57. Bonifazio, St. Peter; 6. Amerighi, St. John ; 421.Bas sano, Interior ; 450. Tintoretto, old man ; Paolo Veronese, * 100. Eloquence,

• 98 . Martyrdom of St. George, * 101. Science ; 424. L. Bassano, Portrait.

Room II . No. 41. Van Bockhorts , Martyrdom of St. Maurice and his companions; J. Jordaens, 293. Prodigal Son, 294. Two Apostles (two others BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 5 > 66 Route 11 . LILLE . From London 2 a little farther on); 488. Early Copy of Raphael, Baptism of Constantine the Great ; *526. Teniers the Younger, Temptation of St. Anthony ; * 143. G. de Crayer , Martyrs buried alive ; *406. Palamedes Conversation - piece ; Van Dyck , * 196 . Marie de Médicis , * 195. Portrait, *193. Crucifixion ; 772 . Brakenburg, Lovers; * 398 . J. van Oost the Elder , Portrait ; * 194. Van Dyck, Miracle of St. Anthony of Padua (a hungry mule kneels before the host, neglecting the oats placed near him ); * 292. Jordaeng , Christ and the Pharisees ; * 257. Fr. Hals, Girl laughing, erroneously called Hille Bobbe;

• 278. Honthorst, Triumph of Silenus; Rubens, * 463. St. Bonaventura, * 464.

Ecstasy of St. Francis ; 110. Van Keulen the Elder , Portrait ; 766. Boel, Allegory of worldly vanities ; 571. De Fries the Younger, Portrait; 558. Victor, Court-yard of a castle ; 268. Van der Helst, Portrait; 197. Van Dyck, Coronation of the Virgin ; * 482. Ryckaert, Mussel-seller; 814. Neuchâtel, surnamed Lucidel, J. Neudorfer, the mathematician, and his son ; School of Rubens, 466, 465, Providence and Abundance, from the decorations of a triumphal arch ; 543. Van Utrecht , Cock -fight; * 796 . Holbein the Younger, His wife and children, old copy of the original in Bâle Museum , here with the title ' Caritas', and the inscription : ‘Die Liebe zu Gott heisst Charitas, wer Liebe hatt der tragtt kein Hass' (Love toward God is called Charity ; he who has love bears no hate) ; * 460. Rubens, Descent from the Cross, formerly an altarpiece in the convent of the Capuchins ; no number, Jor daens, Huntsman and hounds; 267. Barth . van der Helst, Portrait ; no num her, Unknown Artist, Portrait of a man ; Rubens, 461. Death of Mary Mag. dalen , * 462. St. Francis and the Madonna. Room III . Round this room , next the ground, are hung 27 portrait studies by Boilly (d. 1874 ), for his picture of Isabey's studio (1800 ), and portraits by Arn. de Vuez (d . 1720 ). Other works by the latter artist, who spent much of his life at Lille , are also hung in this room . No. 142.Ant. Coypel, Athalide and Roxane (from Racine's 'Bajazet ) ; no number, Fyt, Still life ; 148. Cuyp, Portrait ; 475. Ruysdael, Landscape ; 113. Ph. de Champaigne, The Good Shepherd ; 232. Claude Lorrain, Sea-piece ; 808. Maas, Portrait; no number, Both, Landscape ; G. de Crayer, The Messiah ; 231. Claude Lor rain , Campo Vaccino at Rome; 806. Lievens the Elder, Salome; 144, above the entrance to the Musée Wicar (see p . 67) , G. de Crayer, The Mira culous Draught of Fishes ; 629. Louis Watteau, Episode of the siege of Lille ; 352. Mignard, Fortune ; 626. Louis Watteau , Confederation of the Depart ments of Nord, Somme , and Pas deCalais , in 1790 ; 879. J. J. Weerts, Legend of St. Francis of Assisi ; 428. Poussin , The infant Moses; 537. Til borgh the Younger , Domestic scene. In the middle of the room : 755. Sanson , Susanna , a statue in marble. The side - doors of this and the succeeding hall lead to the Collection of Drawings (p . 67 ) . Room IV . Louis and François Watteau, whose works occur so often in this room , were the nephew and grand -nephew of the celebrated Antoine Watteau of Valenciennes , of whom , however , the gallery possesses no authentic specimen ; their works are far inferior to those of their kinsman .

• No. 532. Teniers the Elder, Dives in Hell ; * 436. J. van Ravesteyn , Por trait ; 359. Molenaer, Scene during the Carnival; 771. Both, Landscape;

434. Al. de Pujol, Joseph in prison (1822) ; 11, 12, Jacques d’Artois, Land scapes : 689. Unknown Artist, Portrait; * 153. J. L. David, Belisarius asking alms (1785 ); Fr. Watteau , 618. The ‘Braderie ' (sale of old effects), 620 . Festival in the Colosseum ; 625. L. Watteau , View of Lille ; 299. J. Jouve net, Raising of Lazarus ; * 437 Van Ravesteyn , Portrait of a lady ; 531. Teniers the Elder , Incantation; 111. Phil. de Champaigne, Annunciation. Room V. No. 139. Courbet, Evening at Ornans; * 157. Eug. Delacroix, Medea ; 215. Ch. Fortin , Chouans (i.e. Royalists of Brittany) ; 87. Jules Breton, Erection of a ‘Mont de Calvaire '; 135. Corot, Ancient festival ; 839. Laugée, Servant of the poor ; 540. Troyon, Landscape; 272. Hockert (Swedish painter) , Preaching in Lapland ; 182. Duran (of Lille) , Scene of Italian peasant-life (monks with the body of a murdered man ). Room VÌ. No. 802. Le Nain , The grandmother's room ; 114. Chardin , The learned ape ; 174. Donvé, Portrait of the artist ; no number , Van der Helst (? ) , Family -portraits. Room VII. No. 89. Velvet Brueghel, Rest on the Flight into Egypt ; to Brussels. LILLE . 11. Route . 67 - 557. Versteegh, Interior ; 795. Van der Helst, Venus ; 561. Vinckeboons, Con cert of angels ; 67. Boulanger, Corpus Christi Procession in Rome; 842. Sienese School , St. Catharine of Siena ; 794 bis. Heemskerck , Allegory ; 812. Massys, Tarquin and Lucretia ; 780. Cranach the Elder, Mocking of Christ. Room VIII, to the left of the preceding. No. 817. Italian School, Ma donna and Child ; no number, Bellegambe, The Bath of the Blood of Christ, triptych ; * 846 . Italian School, Large painting in several compartments, re presenting scenes from the lives of the Virgin and Saints, etc.; * 775. Brueghel the Elder, John the Baptist preaching ; * 855. Westphalian School, Adoration of the Magi , Adoration of the Shepherds ( shutters of a trip tych) ; *523. Stuerbouts ( ?) , The fairy -well; 17. Bart. di Gentile da Urbino , Madonna and Child ; 91. P. Brueghel the Elder, Paying tithes ; 854. West phalian School , Annunciation ( shutters of a triptych ); 147. Crivelli, Ma donna and Child ; 876. Israel van Meckenem , Assumption ; no number, Belle gambe, The Trinity (triptych) ; Unknown Artist, Annunciation, Nativity, and Massacre of the Innocents (triptych ); 764. H. met de Bles , surnamed Ci vetta , Landscape , with the Flight into Egypt; 400. Van Orley, Adoration of the Magi ( triptych ). - In the middle : 811. Stuerbouts, Two shutters of 3 triptych . The Archæological Museum (see p. 68) is entered from this room. Room IX. No.538 . Van Tilborgh the Elder, Village- festival; 511. Snyders, Boar- hunt ; no number , Teniers the Younger, The story- teller ; 508. Sibe rechts, The ford ; 18. Baudry, Punishment of a fallen Vestal; Ch. L.Müller, 376. Haidee ( from Byron's 'Don Juan'), 377. The ruined gamester ; 151. Dau bigny, Sunrise ; 346. Merson, The vision ; 788. Fictoor , Portrait ; 836. Ant. Watteau (?), Concert ; 198. Van Dyck ( ? ) , Madonna and donor ; 323. Lehmann, Sixtus V. blessing the Pontine Marshes ; 68. Giov. da Bologna, Casting lots for the vesture of Christ; 316. Lebrun , Hercules chastising Cacus; 807. Lievens, Old man at prayer ; 85. Em . Breton , Pond ; 189. Amaury Duval, Birth of Venus; 186. Duran , Portrait ; 342. Comerre, Samson and Delilah ; no number, Merson , ' Le loup d'Agubbio ', the wolf converted by St. Francis of Assisi in the streets of Gubbio ; 30. Berthélemy, Wreck of the 'Borys thène' in 1865 ; 798. J. Jordaens, Isaac blessing Jacob . — Rooms X. and XI. are devoted to the Musée Moillet ( see below) . Room XII, beyond the Musée Moillet, is occupied by paintings be queathed by A. Leleux in 1873 . No. 644. Ph. Wouverman , Hunters resting ; 533. Terburg, Lady of rank ; 73. Brakenburg, After marriage; 297 . Jordaens , Susanna ; 476. J. Ruysdael, Landscape ; 248. Greuze, Psyche crown ing Cupid ; 258. Dirk Hals, Backgammon- players ; 558. Teniers the Younger, Landscape; 481. Sal. Ruysdael, Landscape ; 696. German School, Crucifixion ( triptych ); 351. W. van Mieris , Drummer ; 520. Jan Steen , Tavern - scene : 386. Van der Neer , Landscape ; 635. Van der Wertf', The happy household ; 72. Brakenburg, The merry meal ; 84. Van Brekelen kamp, Lady and gentle man (1662 ); 645. Wynants, Landscape ; 519. Jan Steen , Fiddler ; 300. Th. de Keyser, Family -portraits ; 296. Jordaens, Twelfth Night; 480. Sal. Ruysdael, Landscape; 206. Flemish School, Holy Family. In the middle : Allar, Temptation of Eve (marble ; 1879). The MUSÉE MOILLET , in Rooms X. and XI. , is an ethnographi cal collection of considerable value , including costumes, weapons, tools, etc. The latter room also contains Coins , some ancient Gobe lins Tapestry, and a few medieval Sculptures. From Room III. we enter the *MUSÉE WICAR, a collection of up wards of 1400 drawings by the most celebrated masters, chiefiy of the Italian school , formed by the painter J. B. Wicar (b. at Lille in 1762, d. at Rome in 1834) , and bequeathed by him to his native city. The collection is arranged in schools, the masters of each being placed in accordance with the dates of their birth, and their names being in most cases inscribed on the frames . esi the most mportant sketches are placed engravings from the corresponding pictures, affording an opportunity for most instructive comparisons. This collection is open at the same > > 5 * 68 Route 11 . LILLE . From London > hours as the picture -gallery. Besides drawings by Andrea del Sarto , An nibale Carracci, Correggio , Carlo Dolci , Giotto , Leonardo da Vinci , Vero nese , Cranach , Holbein , Dürer, and many other masters , the collection in cludes 8 by Titian, 196 by Michael Angelo (chiefly architectural designs), and 68ascribed to Raphael. In the PASSAGE, in a niche to the left, is a famous **Head of a girl, in wax, long ascribed to Raphael, but now recognised as ancient, and probably found in a Roman tomb. A few antiquities , some enamels, and a terracotta head by Donatello are also exhibited here. A staircase (not always open ) adjoining Room IX . ascends to an old chapel, now transformed into an Archaeological Museum , and embellished with mural paintings by A. de Vuez. Leaving the Hôtel de Ville , we now cross the large Place in an oblique direction to the Rue des Débris - St. Etienne in the opposite corner , and proceed by this street , the Rue des Prêtres , the Rue Basse ( right), and the Rue du Cirque ( first to the left) to Notre Dame de- la - Treille (Pl . E, F, 3) , a church in the style of the 13th cent. , designed by the London architects H. Clutton and W. Burges, and begun in 1855. The building was planned on so ambitious a scale that little has been completed . The Rue Basse leads hence to the Rue Esquermoise (Pl. E, 3) , one of the principal streets of the old town , the appearance of which has been much altered by the construction of the wide Rue Thiers . The Gothic church of Ste. Catharine (Pl . E, 3) contains a high- altarpiece by Rubens, represent ing the saint's martyrdom. — The handsome Boulevard de la Liberté ( P1. D, E, F, 4, 5 ) forms the boundary between the old town and the new quarters built in the modern Parisian style. In the Place de la République rises the spacious new Préfecture (Pl . E , 4 , 5) . The Porte de Paris (Pl . F, G, 5), belonging to the old fortifica tions , but spared on their removal, was built in 1682 in the form of a triumphal arch in honour of Louis XIV. The church of *St. Maurice (Pl. F , 4) , near the Grande Place and the railway - station , dates from the 13th century. For a more detailed account of Lille, see Baedeker's Northern France. FROM LILLE TO BRUSSELS (68 M., in 21/4-31/2 hrs.; fares 8 fr. 30, 6 fr. 25, 4 fr. 15c. ) . About 4 M. to the S.E. of (4 M.) Ascq is situated the village of Bouvines, where Emp. Otho IV . was defeated by Philip Augustus of France in 1214. 51/2 M. Baisieux is the last French , and (11 M. ) Blandain the first Belgian station , at each of which there is a custom-house . 14 M. Froyenne. 16 M. Tournai, see p. 58. Thence to Courtrai( 3/4 hr. ), see R. 8. From TOURNAI TO Mons , viâ Blaton, 301/2 M. , railway in 11 /2-13/4 hr. ( fares 3 fr. 75 , 2 fr. 80 , 1 fr . 90 c . ) . Route viâ Leuze (29 M.) , see p. 55 . Near Vaulx are the interesting ruins of the so-called Chateau de César. About 21/2 M. from Antoing lies Fontenoy , where Marshal Saxe gained a great victory over the Austrians and British under the Duke of Cumber land in 1745. The old Gothic château is the seat of the Dowager Princess of Ligne. There are numerous lime-pits and lime-kilns in the neighbour hood . – The other stations are Maubray, Callenelle, Péruwelz ( branch to Valenciennes) , Blaton (where the line from Leuze to Mons is rejoined ; branch to Bernissart), Harchies, Pommerceul, La Hamaide (local line រ to Brussels. ATH. 11. Route . 69 viâ Hautrage to St. Ghislain, see below ), Boussu - Haine, St. Ghislain (p . 55 ), Quaregnon - Wasmuel, and Jemappes. — Mons, see p. 178. Beyond Tournai the undulating and well -cultivated province of Hainault is traversed . Mont St. Aubert ( p . 61) long remains con spicuous to the left. 201/2 M. Havinnes ; 241/2 M. Barry -Maulde. 28 M. Leuze, a small stocking-manufacturing town on the Dendre, the junction of the Ghent-Oudenaarde - Leuze -Blaton line ( p . 55). 30 M. Chapelle- à- Wattines ; 32 M. Ligne, which gives a title to the princely family of that name. About 11/4 M. from the station is the château of Moulbaix, built in imitation of Windsor Castle and be longing to the Marquis de Chasteler. 35 M. Ath ( Cygne; Paon d'Or ; Hôtel de Bruxelles , near the station ; Hôtel de l'Univers, opposite the station ), on the Dendre, formerly a fortress, with 9000 inhab., contains nothing to detain the traveller. The Hôtel de Ville was erected in 1600. The church of St. Julian, founded in 1393 , was re-erected in 1817 after a fire. The Tour de Burbant, the most ancient structure in the town, dates in its lower part from 1150. A monument to Eugène Defacq% , a native of Ath who played a prominent part in the events of 1830, was erected in 1880. Numerous lime-kilns in the environs . About 3 M. from Ath are the interesting ruins of Cambron - Casteau , form erly one of the richest abbeys in Belgium ; they belong to Count de Val de Beaulieu . Ath is the junction for the line from DENDERLEEUW ( Alost) To GRAM MONT, ATA, and JURBISE : 34M ., railway in 2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 20 , 3 fr. 15, 2 fr . 10 c.). Denderleeuw see p. 11. The train ascends the left bank of the Dender or Dendre. 21/2 M. Okeghem. Then (41/2M .) Ninove, an old town with 6400 inhab . , the seat, as early as the middle of the 12th cent., of a Premonstratensian abbey, of which no trace remains ; the parish church contains two paintings by De Crayer. The next stations are Santbergen , Ideghem , and Schendelbeke. 13 M.Grammont, see p . 181 . 16 M. Acren , the first place in Hainault ; 17 M. Lessines, with porphyry quarries, is thejunction of the Bassilly-Renaix line (see p . 70 ) ; Papignies; Rebaix . 25 M. Ath , see above. - Then Maffles , Mevergnies - Attres, Brugelette ( with a large orphan - asylum conducted by nuns), Lens, and ( 34 M.) Jurbise, where the Brussels and Paris line is reached (see p. 178 ). From ATH TO BLATON, 12 M. , railway in 40 min. ( fares 1 fr . 45, 1 fr. 10, The stations are small and uninteresting, with the exception of 17 M.) Beloeil, a village with the celebrated château and estate of the Prince de Ligne, which has been in possession of the family upwards of 500 years . Prince Charles Joseph of Ligne (1735-1814 ), the eminent general and states man , gives a long accountin his letters of this estate with its park and gardens. Delille , in his poem ' Les Jardins,' describes Beloil as tout à la fois magnifique etchampêtre. The château contains numerous curiosities of artistic as well as historic interest ; a considerable library, with many rare MSS .; admirable pictures, including works attributed to Dürer, Hol bein, Van Dyck, Velazquez , Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo, and Salva tor Rosa, andalso specimens of many modern artists ; relics ( fragments of the " True Cross' and the Crown of Thorns' ) , and numerous gifts pre sented to the family by emperors and kings, from Charles V. to Napoleon I. Admission to the château is rarely denied by the proprietor. Blaton is the junction for the lines to Leuze and Tournai (see p. 68 ), Péruwelz- Tournai (see p. 68 ), and St. Ghislain -Mons ( p. 55 ). From ATH TO ST. GHISLAIN (p . 55), 14 M. , railway in about 11/2 hr. Beyond Ath are several small stations at which the express does > 70 c . ). 70 Route 11 . HAL . not stop . From (44 M.) Bassily a branch -line diverges to Lessines (p. 69), Ellezelles (p . 33) , and Renaix (p . 55). 50 M. Enghien, the next important place, a town with 3900 in hab. , many of whom are occupied in lace-making (' point de Paris'), is the junction of the line from Ghent to Braine-le-Comte and Charleroi (R. 20) . The fine * Park of the Ducd'Arenberg formerly contained the ancestral château of the Ducs d'Enghien , which was destroyed during the French Revolution . The old chapel , with its carved oaken door, contains a well-preserved triptych , ascribed to Mabuse. Adjacent is a Capuchin Convent, the church of which con tains the beautiful alabaster *Tomb of Guillaume de Croy , Arch bishop of Toledo (d . 1521 ) , richly adorned with figures and or naments in the style of the early Italian Renaissance. Steam tramway hence to ( 191/2 M.) Cureghem (p. 77). The train quits the province of Hainault and enters Brabant. 53 M. Bierghes; 55 M. Saintes ; 56 M. Brages-Bellingen. 59 M. Hal ( Cygne; Trois Fontaines ; Univers), situated on the Senne and the canal of Charleroi, with 9000 inhab . , is celebrated throughout Belgium as a resort of pilgrims , on account of the mir acle-working image of the Virgin in the church of * Notre Dame, a pure Gothic edifice, begun in 1341 and consecrated in 1409. The church possesses numerous costly treasures presented by Emp. Maximilian I. , Charles V. , Pope Julius II . , Henry VIII. of England , the Burgundian Dukes, and the Spanish governors . The *High -altar is a fine Renaissance work in alabaster, executed by Jan Mone in 1533, with reliefs representing the seven Sacraments , statuettes of the four Evangelists and the four great Fathers of the Church , and a figure of St. Martin sharing his cloak with a beggar. The font, in bronze , was cast in 1446. A late Gothic tabernaculum is also noteworthy, A monument in black marble, with the figure of a sleeping child , is dedicated to the son of Louis XI . , who died in 1460. Another chapel contains 33 cannon-balls , caught and rendered harmless by the robes of the wonder -working image during a siege of the town. The Hôtel de Ville, built in 1616 , a slender three - storied brick building distinguished by its lofty roof, was successfully restored a short time ago . From Hal to Braine -le - Comte and Mons (Brussels and Paris railway), see R. 19. 601/2 M. Buysingen ; 62 M. Loth. The country traversed is hilly. The line runs for some distance parallel with the canal of Charleroi . 64 M. Ruysbroeck was the birthplace in the 14th cent. of the mystic of that name. Near (66 M.) Forest the train crosses the winding Senne, which waters a rich pastoral district. The line intersects the Boulevards of Brussels , commanding a view of the Porte de Hal (p . 113) to the right, and soon stops at the Station du Midi . 68 M. Brussels, see p. 72. 71 Key to the Plan of Brussels. 39 . . • E3 . 14 - • E4 • E4 • D2 • E1 · B5 1. Abattoirs (Slaughter-houses) 38. Monument des Martyrs D2 B3, F2 39. of Counts Egmont and Académie Royale des Scien Hoorn D 5 ces, des Lettres, et des Beaux of John Cockerill F 5 Arts E 4 Musée des Armes , see Porte 2. Bains Léopold D4 de Hal. Bain Royal E3 Museum of Natural History G5 3. Bains St. Sauveur D3 41 . of Paintings (Picture 4. Banque Nationale Gallery) . D4 5. Bibliothèque Royale (Royal Musée Wiertz . G5 Library ) D4 44. Palais du Duc d'Arenberg . 15 6. Bourse de commerce (Ex- 45. des Beaux - Arts DE 4 change) C346 . de Justice (old ) . D4 7. Casernes (Barracks) C1,2, E 3, C5 47. ( new ) CD5 9. Chapelle de l'Expiation , or de la Nation (Legislative Ch. Salazar Assembly) . E3 10. Colonne du Congrès E 3 49. du Comte de Flandre 11. Conservatoire Royal de Mu ( Crown -Prince) DE 4 sique Ꭰ 5 des Académies 12. Ecole vétérinaire B5 Royal 13. Eglise du Béguinage C2 Prison des Petits- Carmes DE5 14. St. Boniface . E6 53. Porte de Hal C6 15. Ste . Catherine C2 Post Office Ste . Gudule ( cathedral) . E 3 Station du Nord 16. St. Jacques-sur-Caudenberg E 4 du Midi . 17. St. Jean et St- Etienne , Ꭰ 5 du Quartier Léopold F5 18. des Jésuites F2, C4 de l'Allée - Verte (Goods 19. St. Joseph F4 Station) D1 20 . Ste. Marie de Schaerbeek F159. Statue of General Belliard E4 21 . St. Nicolas . . D360. of Godfrey of Bouillon 22. Notre - Dame de Bon 61 . of Léopold I. Secours of Prince Charles of 23 . de la Chapelle CD4 Lorraine , in the court of 24 . des Victoires the Royal Library. 25. EntrepôtRoyal(Custom House ) C1 of the Astronomer Galerie St. Hubert (Passage) D3 Quetelet, in front of the du Commerce . D2 Académie E4 du Nord of the Anatomist Vesalius, Halles Centrales ( Markets) C3 in the Place des Barri Hôpital St. Jean (St. John's cades F2 Hospital) E2 63. Synagogue, New . 30. Hôtel du Gouvernement 64. Telegraph , Central Office E 1 (Government Offices) CD4 Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie D3 de Ville (Town Hall) D3 66 . des Galeries St. Hubert . D3 Jardin Botanique (Botanic du Parc . E3,4 Garden) E2 68. Molière E5 34. Institut des Aveugles (Blind 71. Alhambra D2 Asylum) C6 72. Flemish Theatre . D1 35. Maison du Roi . D3 73. Cirque Royal 36. Mannikin Fountain . C474 . University D4 Marché Couvert or Marché Vauxhall E3,4 de la Madeleine (M. C.) .04 • E4 • F6 C3, 4 . D5 · D2 · D5 67 . . • E3 . 72 UD MEN100. Jy Ut ( 12. Brussels. French , Bruxelles. Arrival. There are three railway- stations at Brussels : 1. STATION DU NORD ( Pl. E , 1 ), for Ostend , Antwerp (and Holland ) , Louvain , Liège, andGermany. 2. STATION DUMidi (Pl. B , 5 ), forCharleroi, Namur viâ Bau lers, Braine -le -Comte, Tournai , and France ( entrance by the ticket-office in the Rue Fonsny). 3. STATION DU QUARTIER LÉOPOLD or Gare du Lu xembourg (Pl . F, G, 5 ), for Ottignies, Namur, Givet (France ), Luxembourg , Bâle (and Germany); but most of the trains on this line also start from the Station du Nord. A fourth station ( Pl . C , D, 1) is used for goods traffic only. The Chemin de Fer de Ceinture connects the several railway lines, and also carries on a local traffic. Cab with one horse from the station into the town 1 fr .; trunk 15 c ., small articles free ; the driver ex pects an additional fee . Comp. p . 75 . Hotels. Upper part of the Town , near the park : * BELLEVUE (Pl. a ; E, 4) , Place Royale 9 , frequented by royalty and the noblesse, expensive, R. 4-10 , L.1 , A. 1, B. 2, déj. 5 , D. 6 , pens. 15, omn. 11/4 fr. ; * HÔTEL DE FLANDRE (Pl. b ; E, 4) , Place Royale, R., L. , & A.4-6 , B. 14/4, déj . 4, D. 5, pens . from 121/2 , omn. 1/4 fr.; these two under the samemanagement ( lift); * Hôtel MENGELLE ( Pl. d ; E , 2), Rue Royale 103, to the N. of the Colonne du Congrès, R. 5-10, L. 1/2-1, A. 1 , B. 11/2, déj. 3-4 , D. 5 , Spens.' in summer from 12, in winter from 101/2" fr. ( lift); *HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE (Pl. c ; D , E ,4) , Place Royale ; * HÔTEL DE FRANCE ( Pl. e ; E, 3 , 4) , Montagne du Parc 6, R.' 21/ 2-12 , 1. 1 ,' A. 1 , B. 11/4 , D. 5, pens. 10-14 fr.; GRAND HÔTEL BRITANNIQUE, Place du Trône 3 (Pl. ' E, 5) , behind the Royal Palace, R. 21/ 2-6, L. 3/4, A. 3/1, B. 11/2, déj. 3, D. 5, pens. 10-14 fr. All these hotels are good, well situated, and expensive. Table d'hôte at 5, 5.30, or 6 p.m. Lower part of the Town : * GRAND HÔTEL DE BRUXELLES ( Pl . a ; C , D , 3 ) , Boulevard Anspach, a large establishment with about 200 rooms, of which those opening on the glass -roofed court should be avoided ; R. & A. from 4, L. 1, B.14/2, D. at6 p.m. 5 fr .; café and restaurant on the ground -floor. HÔTEL DE SUÈDE (Pl. h ;D , 3), Ruede l'Evêque 29 , R. from 3 , L. 3 /4-1, A. 3/4, B. 11/2, déj . 3 , D. 41/2, pens. from 10, omn. 1 fr. ; * HÔTEL DE L'UNI VERS ( Pl. i ; D, 2 ), Rue Neuve 38-40 and Boulevard du Nord 7, R. 21/2-8 , L.3/4, A. 1 , B. 11/2, déj. 3, D. 41/2 , pens. from 10fr ., R. extra ; * HÔTEL DE L'EMPEREUR (PI. k ; D , 2) , Rue Neuve 63, R. 3-10, A. 1 , L. 3/4 , B. 14/2, déj. 3, D. at 5.30 p.m.4, pens . from 91/2 fr. ; *HÔTEL DE SAXE (Þi. 1 ; D , 2 ) , Rue Neuve 77-79, R. from 31/2, D. 4 fr .; * Grand HÔTEL CENTRAL ( Pl. C , 3 ), Place de la Bourse, opposite the Exchange, R. , L. , & A. 3-12, B. 11/2, déj. 3, D. 4 , pens . from 10 fr. (lift ); HÔTEL DE LA Poste (Pl. 0 ; D , 3) , Rue Fossé-aux - Loups 28, R. 21/2-3, L. 1, D. at 5.30 p.m. 31/2 fr.; ROCHER DE CANCALE, Rue Fossé-aux-Loups 17-20 (PI. D, 3 ), R., L.,&A.from 3, B. 11/4, D. 2-5, peng. from 6 fr . , good cuisine (best known as a restaurant, see p. 73 ); HÔTEL RHENANIA (German ), Rue Léopold 6, R. 2-10 (mostly 5 ), A. 3/4, B. 11/2, déj . 3, D. at 6 o'cl. 4 , pens. from 8 fr. GRAND MIROIR ( Pl. s ; D, 3 ), Rue de la Montagne 28 , R. , L. , & A. 31 /2-9, B. 11/4, déj. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 10, omn.1 fr. ; HÔTEL DU GRAND CAFÉ, Rue des Eperonniers 24-26 (Pl. D, 3, 4 ) ; "HÔTEL DE VIENNE (Pl. u ; D, 3) , Rue de la Fourche 24-26 , R. 21/2-3 , B. 11/4 , D. 3 fr. – * HÔTEL DE BORDEAUX, Rue du Midi 135 (Pl. C, 4 ), R. , L., & A. from 3 , B. 1, déj. 2, D. 21/2, pens. from 8 fr. ; *HÔTEL DE COLOGNE, Rue de la Fourché 17-20, R. 21/ 2-3 /2, B. 1, déj. 2, D. 21/2 fr. ; GRAND MONARQUE (Pl. r ; D, 3) , Rué des Fripiers 17, R. from 21/2, L. & A. 1 , B. 11/4, D. 3 fr.; HÔTEL DE LA CAMPINE, Marché aux Poulets 45 ; HÔTEL ROYAL , Boulevard du Hainaut 87, R. from 11/2 fr ., no table d'hôte. Near the Station du Nord : GRANDHÔTEL GERnar, Boulevard du Jardin Botanique 13, R., L. , & A. from 3, B. 1 , déj. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 7 fr.; HÔTEL CAFÉ DES BOULEVARDS, Place des Nations 1 ; HÔTEL DE BAVIÈRE , R., L., & A. 21/ 2-3, B. 1 fr ., with restaurant; Hôtel du RHIN , Rue de Brabant 14, R., L., & A.11/ 2-21 /2 , B. 3/4 , D. 11/2-21/2 , pens. 6 fr.; these two German. Near the Station du Midi : HÔTEL DES ACACIAS, DE CALAIS, DE L'ESPÉRANCE ( good restaurant), DE LA TERRASSE (restaurant), and others. - Some of the Tavernes mentioned on p . 73 contain cheap and comfortable rooms for gentlemen . ose Colonia R. Atlet DOOR Lema Haberman . 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Sace arnasse othand R. Alliance R. de la Limit deIhardustrie , PL 2390 3 766 réridien R.de Astronomie MageLue icag Van Orler BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 73 A number of Pensions like those in Switzerland have also recently sprung up : S. Bernard, Rue Belliard 50 ; Wiltcher's Family Hotel, Boul. de Waterloo 23 (' pens.' 8-11 fr . per day) ; Mlle. Van Loo, Rue Keyenfeld 1 ; G. Janssens, Rue de Vienne 26 ; Hoffmann , Rue Montoyer 51-53 ; Mme. Gachet, Rue Caroly 10 ; Mme. Stewart, Rue de la Concorde61, Avenue Louise ; Mme. Heughebaert, Rue Berckmans 114 ; Mme. van Pievoel, Rue Stassart 86 ; Verbeeck , Boul. de Waterloo 62 (6-10 fr. per day) ; Toussaint, Rue de l’Esplanade 13; Kremer, Rue du Trône 15 ; Heymann, Place des Martyrs and Rue des Oeillets 2. Furnished Apartments. Mrs. Mathys, Rue du Prince Royal 42; Mrs. Huntley, Rue de la Science 1 ; Mr. Toelle, Rue de Stassart 84; Mme. Dievoort, Rue de Stassart 82 ; also at Avenue Marnix 11 . Restaurants. * Frères Provençaux, Rue Royale 40, by the park, D. from 5 to 7.30 p.m.5 fr . , cheapest wine 3 fr. per bottle, beefsteak 3 fr. ; * Mengelle, see p. 72; Sevin (neveu Perrin ), Rue Fossé-aux -Loups 35, to the N. of the theatre ; * Café Riche, Rue de l'Ecuyer 23 , corner of the Rue de la Fourche, D. from 5 fr., patronised by the Brussels ' Jeunesse dorée'; *Restaurant du Grand Hotel, Boul. Anspach, sometimes overcrowded ; * Rocher de Cancale , see p. 72. All these are elegantly fitted up , and resemble the leading restaurants of Paris. The viands and wine are excellent, but expensive. Theportions are generally ample, so that one is enough for two persons. Next in order to the above houses come the Cafés - Restaurants and Tavernes, at which the cuisine is somewhat less elaborate and the charges correspondingly lower. Between 11 a.m. and 1-2 p.m. ( déjeuner) and between 5 and 7 p.m. (dinner) a choice of three or four dishes (plats du jour) may always be obtained ; the charges are déj . 3/4-1 /4 fr ., D. 1 11/2 fr. ; soup or cheese ( English , Dutch , or "Gruyère") 40-50 c .' extra. Dinners à prix fixe, 2-5 fr. , may also be obtained in many of these houses. Waiter 15-20 c . The usual beverage is English ale or stout or Belgian or German beer. The first is best obtained in the Tavernes of the upper town and in other houses with English names (30 c . per half- pint ), while the last (30-40 c . per glass) is found chiefly in the cafés of the lower town. The following are the most conveniently- situated of these establishments. In the UPPER Town : * Taverne du Globe, * Taverne de la Régence , both in the Place Royale ; Taverne Guillaume, Rue du Musée 20 ; Taverne Fon taine, Rue du Musée 10 ; Taverne Léopold, Rue du Commerce 66. In the LOWER Town, near the Place de la Monnaie : Café du Cercle, Rue Léopold 3 and Rue de l'Ecuyer 24 ; Café de la Monnaie, Rue Léopold 7 ; Taverne de Londres, Rue de l'Ecuyer 15-17 ; Taverne Alexis & Legrand, Rue de l'Ecuyer 45 ; Taverne Royale, Passage St. Hubert, Galerie du Roi, and Rue d'Aren berg; Grande Taverne Allemande, Rue des Bouchers 27 ( R. 21/2 fr. ) ; Taverne St. Jean, Rue St. Jean , to the W. of the Montagne de la Cour and Boul . Anspach 44. – In or near the Boulevard Anspach : * Restaurant Jean Dubois, Rue de la Bourse 12 ; Parc aux Huitres, Boul. Anspach 29 ; Restaurant de la Bourse, at the back of the Exchange ; *Au Filet de Sole, Rue Grétry 1, near the Halles Centrales ; Restaurant Duvivier, Boulevard du Nord 116 (with garden) . – The following is somewhat inconveniently situated : Du ranton, Avenue Louise 82, on the way to the Bois de la Cambre . The following are good Eating Houses in the side- streets to the N.E. of the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville , chiefly frequented by natives : Au Gigot de Mouton , Au Filet de Boeuf, Rue des Harengs; A la Faille Déchirée, Rue Chair et Pain. Oysters , steaks, and chops are their strong points ; winé is usually drunk , but beer may also be obtained. Beer Houses. English Ale and Stout : Prince of Wales , Rue Villa Hermosa 8, first cross -street to the right in descending the Montagne de la Cour (rooms to let); Old Tom Tavern , Rue des Princes, Place de la Mon naie. Germán Beer : Taverne de Munich, Rue de la Madeleine 60 (with garden ); Tav. Jean, Impasse du Parc ( Pl. E , 3 ) ; Trois Suisses, Rue des Princes; Augustinerbräu, Rue des Princes 18 ( Hótel Rhenania ), near the Place de la Monnaie ; Tav. Bass , Boul. Anspach 8 ; Tav. Clarenbach, Galerie de la Poste ; Tav. Joseph, Boulevard Anspach 52, near the Exchange; Brasserie Pschorr, Boul. Anspach 61; Happel, at the corner of the Marché aux Poulets, to the N. of the Exchange; Tav. Victoria , Rue des Fripiers 14 ; 추 74 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Post Office. 7 C. Tav. du Dôme, Galerie du Commerce 53 , with garden ; and many others. Belgian Beér, brewed in the German manner and called Munich or Bock is sold in many café- restaurants, such as the Café Métropole and the Ancien Hotel Continental, both in the Place de Brouckére ( Pl. D, 2 ). The ordinary Belgian beer ( Faro, Louvain , Lambicq, Uitzet, Bock National) is largely consumed by the natives , but will probably be found unpalatable by strangers. The Estaminets, or beer-houses, are very numerous. Wine Rooms. Rhine wine and Moselle : Rue Henri Maus 29, next door to the Exchange; Moselhäuschen , Rue de la Reine 15, next the Mint . Italian wine : F. Cirio , Rue de la Bourse 18, 20. Block's Universal Wine Co., Rue Paul Devaux 6 ; Continental Bodega Co. , Rue de Louvain 2, in the Passage (Galerie du Roi 28 ), and Rue de Namur 2 . - Wine may be obtained by the glass or by the bottle in these establishments. Cafes are very numerous and generally good ( coffee 30 beer 30-35 c . , ices 70 c .). * Mille Colonnes, in the Place de la Monnaie ; * Café du Grand Hôtel, Boulevard Anspach 23 , to the N. of the Exchange ; *Sesino , Boul. Anspach 3 ; Café Central, in the Hôtel Central, see p . 72 ; Café des Tem pliers, Place de la Bourse ; Café Teniers , Boulevard Anspach 83, with large billiard -room ; Café Monico, Rue d'Arenberg 1. - Ices atthe cafés; and also at the following confectioners: Brias & Co., Rue Cantersteen 5 ( Pl. D, 4) ; Mathis, Rue Treurenberg 25 ( at these two 50 c . per portion ) ; Marchal, Rue de l'Ecuyer 30 ; Brockaert,Rue de l’Ecuyer 33 . Baths. Bain Royal(Pl. F, 3) , Rue de l'Enseignement62 ( cold and swim ming baths) and Rue du Moniteur 10-12 (warm baths, 1 fr. 20 c . to 2 fr .) ; Bains St. Sauveur (Pl . 3 ; D; 3) , Montagne aux Herbes Potagères 33 ; Bains Léo pold ( Pl. 2 ; D , 4) , Rue des Trois Têtes 8 , both with good swimming basins (1 fr. ). Open -air Swimming Baths, Rue de la Glacière 8, St. Gilles. Shops. The best are in the Rue de la Madeleine and Montagne de la Cour, the principal streets leading from the upper to the lower part of the city ; also in the Rue Neuve, the Passages , and Boul. Anspach. Money Changers in the Montagne de la Cour (No. 81 ) , Marché aux Herbes, Rue des Fripiers , etc. Brussels Lace. The following are the most important houses for this speciality : Verde-Delisle & Co. ( Compagnie des Indes ), Rue de la Régence 1 ; Daimeries-Petitjean, RueRoyale 2 ; Bóval -De Beck, Rue Royale 74 ; Müser & Co., Boulevard de la Senne 44 ; Baert & Co., Place des Martyrs 22 ; De Vergnieś & Soeurs , Rue des Paroissiens 26 ; Sacré, Place des Martyrs 20 ; Buchholtz, Rue Léopold 3 ; Duden , Rue Neuve 120 ; Voss-Michel, Galerie de la Reine 8, Rue Neuve 84, and Rue de la Madeleine 10; Schuermans, Rue des Cendres 8 ; E. Kaufmann , Passage ( Galerie du Roi 3 ); Stern & Co., Rue de la Chan cellerie 21. The recommendations of commissionaires and other touts should be disregarded, as they are rarely disinterested . The lace is less expensive than formerly , as the flowers or sprigs are now sewn upon a ground of tulle instead of one made by hand. The flowers are either manufactured with the bobbin ( fleurs en plat) or with the needle (feurs en point ). About 130,000 women are employed in this manufacture in Belgiuni, and the value of their work is about 50 million fr . annually. Booksellers. Office de Publicité (Lebėgue & Co. ) , Rue de la Madeleine 46 ; Kiessling & Co., with lending library, Montagne de la Cour 72; Muquardt, Rue des Paroissiens 20 ; Spineux, Montagne de la Cour 86. Engravings : Géruzet, Rue de l'Ecuyer 27 B ; Leroy & Fils , Montagne de la Cour 83 ; Dietrich & Co., Montagne de la Cour 75. The Belgian News is an Eng lish newspaper published weekly at Brussels ; office , Rue du Pepin 17 . Post Office . The central office (Pl . D , 2) is now in the old Augustine Church, Boulevard Anspach ; open from 5 a.m. to 8 p.m. There are also numerous branch - offices, open from 7. a. m. to 7 p.m., all with telegraph -offices: at the railway -stations, Place de la Chancellerie 1, Rue de Louvain (Palais de la Nation), Avenue de l'Astronomie 27, Boulevard de Waterloo 9, Place de la Chapelle 6, etc. Pillar letter-boxes in all the principal streets . Telegraph Office. Central office ( Pl. 64 ; E , 1 ) at the Station du Nord, Rue de Brabant; ' succursales' at the post- offices ( see above). International Intelligence Office, Rue Royale 1 (Hôtel Bellevue) , for se Cabs. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 75 curing railway-tickets and sleeping -carriages, forwarding luggage, etc. — Cook's Tourist Office, Rue de la Madeleine 41. Office des Voyages, Boul. Ans pach 41. Agence des Etrangers (for lodgings , etc. ) , Boulevard de la Senne 12 . Cabs ( Voitures de Place ). The following is the tariff of the Brussels municipal district for one- horse cabs, holding 1-3 persons. There is no fixed tariff for the two- horse cabs . From 6 (in winter 7 ) a.m. till midnight , for 1/2 hr. fr., for each 1/4 hr. additional 50 c . From mid night to 6 or 7 a.m., for 1/2 hr. 2 fr ., each 1/4 hr. additional 1 fr. Trunk 15 c ., small luggage free . Gratuity of 10-25 c . to the driver usual. This tariff includes drives in the Bois de la Cambre and the Park of Laeken , provided the hirer returns to town in the same cab . If not , 1 fr . extra is paid as return -money. The fares of the ' Voitures de Grande Remise', superior vehicles , with coachmen in livery , are higher. Tramway ( Chemin de Fer Américain ). Brussels possesses a very complete network of tramways , which are marked in the Plan . The cars run every 10 or 20 min .; fares 10-60 c . according to the distance traversed ; 5c . extra in the hinder part ( 1st cl.) of the cars. 1. From Schaerbeek (Pl. F , 1) through the Rue Royale , and then either across the Place des Palais and through the Boulevard de Waterloo (yellow name- boards and yellow lamp in front, green behind), or through the Rue de la Régence (red boards and red lamp in front, green behind) , to the Avenue Louise (Pl. D, 6 ) and the Bois de la Cambre. 2. From the Station du Nord by the Upper Boulevards (Pl. E , F, 2-5 ) to the Station du Midi (red lamp in front , green behind). 3. From the Station du Nord to the station du Midi by the Lower Boulevards (Pl. C, B, 1-6 ). 4. From Laeken through the Rue du Progrès to the Station du Nord and by the Inner Boulevards (Pl. D, C, 1-5 ) to the Station du Midi ( white boards and green lamps) . 5. From the Rue du Pavillon in Schaerbeek to the Station du Nord and viâ the Inner Boulevards to the Station du Midi and St. Gilles (black boards and yellow lamps). 6. From the Place Liedts in Schaerbeek to the Station du Nord (Pl. E, 1 ) and viâ the Inner Boulevards to the Station du Midi and Forest (yellow boards, red lamps). 7. From Laeken by the Chaussée d'Anvers , Rue de Laeken , Rue van Artevelde, and Chaussée de Mons to Cureghem and Anderlecht. 8. From the Impasse du Parc (Pl. E , 3) through the Rue de la Loi to the Palais du Cinquantenaire ( beyond Pl. G, 4 ). 9. From the Place Royale (PI. E, 4) through the Rue Belliard to the Parc Léopold (Pl. G , 5 ). 10. From the Place Royale through the Rue de la Régence , Avenue Louise, Chaussée de Charleroi, and Avenue Brugman to Uccle (Pl. D, 6 ). 11. From the Place Royale viâ the Place du Trône (Pl. E, 5) to the Place du Luxembourg (Pl . F 5, ). 12. From the Exchange ( Pl. C, 4) viâ the Place Ste. Gudule and Place du Congrès to the Place St. Josse-ten -Noode ( Pl. C- G, 3) , every 10 min. ( “ tramway déraillable ', with five- wheeled cars). Omnibus from the Exchange via the Place Royale and the Porte de Namur to Ixelles (Pl . C, 3, 4 ; D , 4 ; E , 5 ; F , 6 ), every 1/2 hr. Steam Tramway. 1. From the Place St. Josse ( Pl. G , 3) to the Central Cemetery at Evere and from the Porte de Namur, at the beginning of the Rue de Namur (Pl. E, 5 ), to the Bois de la Cambre , and thence to the race- course at Boitsfort (p. 191 ), eitherby the Chausséed'Ixelles, or the Chaussée de Wavre. 2. From the Eglise Ste . Marie ( Pl . F, 1 ) viâ the Place St. Josse and the Chaussée d'Etterbeck (Parc Léopold) to the Bois de la Cambre. Theatres. Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie ( Pl. D, 3 ), Place de la Mon naie , for operas only ; open almost every day in autumn , winter, and spring. Performances begin at 7, and last till 11 or later. Fauteuils d'orchestre and premières loges 6 fr .'; balcon (reserved seats in front of 76 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Collections. the best boxes) and secondes loges 5 fr. ; parquet (between the stalls and pit) and secondes loges , at the side , 4 fr .; troisièmes loges and parterre (pit) 2 fr. ; seats previously secured ('en location ') cost 1/2-1 fr. each ad ditional; bureau de location open daily 12-3 o'clock . Théatre Royal du Parc ( Pl. 67 ; E, 3, 4 ) , built in 1782, comedies, vaudevilles, dramas ; best seats 5 fr. - Théâtre des Galeries st . Hubert ( Pl. 66, D , 3 ; operas, dramas, comedies, vaudevilles), in the Passage of that name (p. 107), with accommo dation for 1500 spectators; best boxes 5 fr . Théâtre Molière (Pl. 68 ; E, 5 ), Rue du Bastion, for dramas and vaudevilles ; best seats 5 fr. – Théâtre Flamand or Vlaamsche Schouwburg (Pl. 72; D, 1), Rue de Laeken 124 A ; best seats 21/2 fr. – Théâtre du Vaudeville, in the Passage (Galerie dela Reine 15 ), comedies and broad farces; best seats 3 fr. – Alhambra (Pl. 71 ; D 2) , Boulevard de la Senne 18, operettas, spectacular pieces ; best seats 6 fr. Circus (P1, 73 ; E, 3 ), Rue de l'Enseignement. Concerts in winter in the Conservatoire de Musique (Pl. 11 ; D, 5) , Rue de la Régence, at the corner of the Petit-Sablon, given by the mem bers of the Conservatoire Royal de Musique ; admission 1-3 fr. – 'Concerts populaires et classiques ' generally twice a month , on Sundays at 1 p.m., in the Théâtre de la Monnaie (p. 77) . Open -air concerts in the Park daily in summer ( 1st May to 30th September) 3-4.30 p.m.; at the Vauxhall (Pl. E , 3, 4 ), at the N.E. corner of the Park, concert by the orchestra of the royal theatre at 8 p.m. ( 1 fr . ) ; military band on Sun. and Thurs. after noons in the Bois de la Cambre. Popular Festivals . ' Kermesse' from the middle ofJuly to the middle of August, and the anniversary of the Revolution (“ fêtes nationales ') on July 21st, and the preceding or following days, on which occasions Fle mish merriment becomes somewhat boisterous. Horse Races , several times annually, at the Hippodrome, on the road to Boitsfort (see p. 115 ). Embassies . American Minister , Hon . E. H. Terrell, Rue Belliard 43 ; Consul, Col. G. W. Roosevelt, Boul. de Waterloo 75. British Envoy, Lord Vivian, Rue de Spa 2 ; Vice -Consul, T. E. Jefes, Esq.; Pro - Consul, W. E. Sergeant, Esq ., Rue d'Edimbourg 35. English Physicians. Dr. Collignon , Rue des Chevaliers 24 ; Dr. Thom son , Rue d'Egmont 14. Dentist, Dr. George Fay, Rue Joseph 23 . Chemists. Delacre, Montagne de la Cour 80 ; Delchevalerie, Rue de Namur 74. English Bankers. Messrs. Bigwood & Morgan , Rue Royale 16 ; Suf field & Co., Montagne de la Cour 81 . Solicitors. ' T. E. Jeffes, Esq., Rue d'Edimbourg 35 ; A. F. Chamberlayne, Esq ., Rue Souveraine 91 , Avenue Louise. British Institute and Home for Governesses and Servants , Rue de Vienne 26 ( resident honorary secretaries , Mrs. C. E. Jenkins and Miss Young). British Charitable Fund, established 1815 ; Hon. Sec. , Rue de la Loi 82. English Club, 20 Rue du Musée. Brussels Cricket & Lawn Tennis Club, Avenue de Longchamp (tramway ). English Church Service at the Church of the Resurrection , Rue Stassart (Pl. E , 6 ; services at 8.30, 11 , 4, and 7 ; chaplain , Rev. John C. Jenkins, M. A.); at Christchurch , Rue Crespel, Avenue de la Toison d'Or (11 a.m. and 7 p.m .; chaplain, Rev. W. R. Stephens, M. A.) ; and at the Protestant Church in the Rue Belliard ( 12 noon and 4 p.m.; chaplain , Rev. A. K. Harlock, M. A.). French Protestant services in the last-named church , in the Chapelle du Boulevard de l'Observatoire , and in the Chapelle du Musée. German Protestant services also in the last-named. Flemish Pro testant service at Rue Blaes 70. - Synagogue, Rue de la Régence, see p . 103. Collections, Museums, etc. : - Armour'at the Porte de Hal (p. 113) , daily 10-4 , Mon. 1-4. Bibliothèque Royale (p. 88) , daily 10-3. Botanical Garden (p . 111), daily till dusk; admission to the hot-houses by payment of a fee , 10-12 and 2-4 (not on Sandays). Exchange (p . 109), daily ; business-hours 1-3 p.m. , corn -exchange later. Hôtel de Ville ( p. 105) ; interior best seen before 9 a.m. or after 4 p.m. Musée d'Art Monumental et Industriel, in the Palais du Cinquantenaire (p . 82) , daily 10-4, in winter 10-3. Musée Communal (p. 106 ), daily 10-4. History. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 77 Musée Wiertz ( p. 112) , daily 10-4 . Natural History Collection ( p. 112), daily 10-3 . Palais des Academies ( frescoes in the hall ; p. 81 ) , daily ; 50 c. Palais Arenberg ( picture -gallery, p. 102) , shown on week - days , 10-4 , in the absence of the Duke (strangers are sometimes admitted when the Duke is at home on sending in their cards) ; fee 2 fr. Palais Royal ( p . 80 ), shown in absence of the King only , and by special permission of the ' maréchal du palais ', or minister of the household . Picture Gallery (p. 89, 94) , daily 10 to 3, 4, or 5 ; on the 1st and 3rd Mon. of each month the modern pictures are not shown before 12 noon. Pictures , see also Musée Wiertz, Palais Arenberg, Palais Ducal . Principal Attractions : Park (p . 80) and its environs ; Congress Column (p . 85 ) ; Cathedral (p . 85 ) ; Museum (p . 89) ; Palais de Justice (p. 103) ; Market-place and Hôtel de Ville (p. 105 ) ; Maison du Roi and Musée Com munal ( p. 106 ) ; Mannikin Fountain ( p . 107 ); the new Boulevards and Ex change (p . 109) ; Galerie St. Hubert ( p. 107 ), in the evening by gas-light ; Musée Wiertz ( p. 112) ; Palais du Cinquantenaire (p . 81) ; Drive in the Bois de la Cambre (p. 115 ). Brussels, the capital of Belgium, the residence of the royal family, and the seat of government, is situated nearly in the centre of the kingdom, on the Senne, a small tributary of the Schelde . The city consists of the lower part on the N.W. side , traversed by several canals and ramifications of the Senne , most of which are now vaulted over, and the upper part on the S.E. side, covering the slope which gradually rises from the river. In 1887 the population was 177,523, or including the ten suburbs ( named from the N. towards the E. , Schaerbeek, St. Josse - ten -Noode, Etterbeek, Ixelles, St. Gilles, Cureghem , Anderlecht, Koekelberg, Molenbeek - St- Jean , Laeken ) about 450,000. There are nearly 2000 English residents . Most of the latter reside in or near the Quartier Léopold (p. 112 ), the highest and pleasantest part of the town . The commerce of Brussels is comparatively small in extent , but its manufactures of lace (p. 74 ), furniture , bronzes, carriages, and leather articles are very important. The chronicles of the 8th cent. make mention of a village named ‘ Brucsella ' (broek, marsh ; broeksele, dwelling on the marsh), and a document of Otho the Great proves that there was a church here in 966. In the 11th cent . the town was considerably extended and surrounded by walls , and soon became an important station on the great commercial route between Bruges and Cologne . The princes and nobility erected their mansions on the heights rising gradually from the Senne, among them the Counts of Louvain , the sovereign lords of the country, who afterwards assumed the title of Dukes of Brabant( 12th cent.). The Burgundian princes, who subsequently resided here ( 15th cent. ), were generally surrounded by a large re tinue of French knights, in consequence of which, even at that period, French became the most fashionable language among the nobility of the Netherlands. The character of the city and its inhabitants thus gradually developed itself, the court and the nobility, with their French language and manners, being established in the upper part, while the lower quarters were chiefly occupied by the trading com 78 Route 12. BRUSSELS. History of Art. munity and the lower classes , whose language and character were essentially Flemish . After the Netherlands passed into the possession of the Haps burgs in 1477, Brussels became the seat of a brilliant court, which attained the height of its magnificence under Charles V. Philip II. made it the official residence of the Stadtholder of the Netherlands , and Margaret of Parma ( p. xvii) here performed the duties of thatoffice . Brussels was the scene of the first rising of the Netherlands against the Spanish dominion (1566 ; see p. 103), but at the end of the protracted conflict the city remained in the hands of the Spaniards . During the wars of Louis XIV. and Louis XV. Brussels had much to suffer . Its refractoriness under the galling yoke of the Austrian governors was another source of disaster (see p . 105) , but a better state of affairs was introduced by the mild rule of Maria Theresa and her stadtholder, Duke Charles of Lorraine (1741-80) . After the wars of the French Republic and the First Empire , Belgium was united in one monarchy with Holland, and Brussels alternated with the Hague as the seat of the States General and the residence of the king . The revolution which ended in the separation of Belgium and Holland broke out at Brussels in 1830 ; and on July 21st of the following year , the new King of Belgium , Leopold of Saxe -Coburg Gotha, entered the city in state . At that time Bruss contained about 100,000 inhabitants . The half - French half - Flemish character of the city , of which we have spoken above , is still recognisable at the present day . The upper part of the city, which was rebuilt after a great conflagration in 1731 , contains the Royal Palace , the ministerial offices, the embassies, and the mansions of the nobility and gentry. The well-known ball given by the Duchess of Richmond on the eve of the Battle of Water loo took place in the house in the Rue Royale nearest to the former Porte de Schaerbeek . The lower town, on the other hand, is devoted almost entirely to industry and commerce. The spacious market place, with the magnificent Hôtel de Ville and the mediæval guild houses, presents a very striking picture, and affords an idea of the ancient glory of the city , but the advance of modern improvement has left few other relics of antiquity. The most conspicuous step in this direction has been the construction of the Inner Boulevards . SKETCH OF ART IN BRUSSELS. During the two golden ages of Flemish art in the 15th and again in the 17th cent. , Brussels held a subordinate position, when compared with other Belgian towns , such as Ghent, Bruges, and Antwerp ; but the appointment of Roger van der Weyden the Elder to the office of civic painter in 1436 ( p . xli ) is sufficient proof that art was not neglected here. The prosecution of the fine arts , as indeed that of liberal pursuits in general, fell entirely into abeyance in the 18th century. The name of Brussels , however, again became known in con nection with painting after the year 1815 , when Jacques- Louis David, the famous head of the modern French school , banished from Paris as a re gicide, took up his abode here. David was too old to found a new school , but it was owing to his influence that the classical style remained longer dominant in Brussels than in other Belgian art- centres . Navez, Portaels, and Mathieu , who flourished here during the third and fourth decades of History of Art. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 79 the present century , are good representatives of the correct and careful, though at the same time cold and lifeless style which then prevailed at Brussels, particularly in the domains of sacred art . In the remarkable revolution in taste and practice which took place in Belgium after 1830, Brussels took little part, the movement being headed by Antwerp. The political importance and wealth of the city, however , have assembled here the chief colony of artists in Belgium , though it is impossible to class them together as forming a school. The most distinguished names about 1840-50 are those of Louis Gal lait ( 1810-87 ; p. 60 ) and Edouard de Bièfve ( 1808-82) , whose 'Ab dication of Charles V' ( p . 90 ) and " Compromise of the Belgian No bles' (p. 92) won them ardent admirers far beyond the confines of Belgium. Gallait in particular cultivated a careful naturalism , coupled with the utmost attention to details , in which , however, he still fell far short of the technical skill of the present day. The fact of their having given expression to national ideas, and celebrated the praises of Egmont in particular, has contributed not a little to the popularity of both these masters. At one period Gallait was very partial to a kind of sentimental style, which in some cases degenerated into the melodramatic. In a later generation the following have acquired eminence as historical and genre painters : Slingeneyer , Markelbach , Wulf'aert (apupil of Gallait), De Vriendt, Madou ( d. 1877), and Stallaert. " Emile Wauters is the most distinguished living painter who can be said to belong to a properly in digenous school. The French influence , which has already submerged the national literature , promises gradually to supersede the national art as well. This is shown by the increasing resort of Belgian artists to Parisian studios , by their not unfrequent migrations to Paris, and lastly and mainly by their ready acceptance of the traditions observed by Pa risian artists since the time of the Second Empire. Leading represen tatives of this French element on Belgian soil are the genre painters Al fred Stevens and Willems, the first of whom in particular is more at home in Paris than in his native country. Another style , marked by its correct drawing, and resembling the Ger man school, is exemplified by G. Guffens and Jan Swerts, who made many conjoint efforts to naturalise fresco -painting in Belgium ( Antwerp, p. 154'; Ypres, p . 29 ; Courtrai, p . 56 ). As a specialist may be mentioned the animal-painter E. Verboeckhoven , with whom the names of Robbe and Tschaggeny may be coupled . In landscape-painting Belgium has no con temporary artists comparable to those of Holland. The eccentric painter Wiertz, nearly all of whose works are collected and preserved in a gallery of their own (p . 112) , occupies a perfectly unique position . Although naturally quite capable of acquiring the technical skill of Rubens , to which indeed he in some measure attained , Wiertz was unfortunately led by personal disappointment and literary quarrels to embark on an entirely mistaken career, bordering on madness. The art of SCULPTURE is pursued at Brussels with great success, as is proved by such names as Eug. Simonis , A. Fraikin , Jehotte , and W. and J. Geefs. Still happier results have been attained by sculptors of ecclesias tical subjects, and particularly in wood- carving , in which Belgium has regained some of its 17th cent. reputation . Its chief seats are Brussels and Louvain , and its most eminent masters Geerts and the brothers Goyers. The works of this school are so frequent in new and restored churches, that it is superfluous to adduce examples here . In ARCHITECTURE the Gallic proclivities of the people are shown by the overwhelming number of houses in the so - called French Renaissance style ( from Louis XIII . to Louis XVI. ) which have sprung up within the last few years and completely altered the appearance of the old Brabant capital . It must be mentioned on the other hand that the Flemish Re naissance style of the 16th cent. has also become extremely popular, and has been followed not only in private houses, in which the most striking feature is the small proportion borne by the breadth to the height, but also in various public edifices . 80 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Palais Royal. The * Park (Pl . E, 4), situated in the centre of the upper part of the town , originally the garden of the Dukes of Brabant, and laid out in its present form in 1774, is an attractive spot, although of limited extent (500 yds . in length, 300 yds. in width ). Among the sculptures it contains are a Diana and Narcissus , at the fountain opposite the Palais de la Nation , both by Grupello ; a Magdalene by Duquesnoy ; a bust of Peter the Great, presented to the city by Prince Demidoff ; two figures of Meleager by Lejeune ; and a Venus by Olivier. The groups at the entrance opposite the Palace, by Poelaert and Melot, represent Summer and Spring. The park is a fashionable resort in summer on Sundays from 1 to 2.30 p.m., and on week- days from 3 to 4.30 p.m. , when a military band plays. There is also music here on most summer-evenings at 8 o'clock (at the Vauxhall, p . 76). The park is closed about an hour after dusk, when a bell is rung to apprise visitors of the shutting of the gates. During the eventful 23rd - 26th of September, 1830, the park was one of the chief scenes of the conflict. Prince Frederick of the Nether lands entered Brussels with an army of 10,000 men on the 23rd, and occupied the palace and park. He was, however, unable to pass the barricades which guarded the streets , and evacuated the park on the night of the 26th . The streets surrounding the park, the Rue Royale, Rue Ducale, Rue de la Loi , and Place des Palais, together with the adjoining Place Royale, received their present architectural character at the time of the formation of the park (last quarter of the 18th cent. ), having been mainly designed by the talented architect Guimard . The Rub ROYALE, which bounds the park on the W. , runs along the margin of the eminence on which the upper town is situated. As in other streets in this quarter, the traffic is comparatively in significant, though several attractive shops have recently been opened here . On the W. the row of houses is often broken by small terraces, intended by Guimard to afford views of the lower town, but many of them have unfortunately been built up. On the first of these terraces rises the marble Statue of Count Belliard (Pl . 59 ; E, 4), a French general (d . 1832) , who was ambassador at the newly - constituted court of Belgium in 1831-32, by W. Geefs. The Palais Royal (Pl. E , 4 ), in the Place des Palais, origi nally consisted of two buildings erected during last century, which were connected by an intervening structure adorned with a Corin thian colonnade in 1827. It is at present being entirely remodelled from designs by Balat, and two new wings projecting into the royal gardens at the back have lately been completed . The interior (adm . , see p. 77) contains a number of apartments handsomely fitted up, and a considerable number of ancient and modern pictures. Among the former are specimens of Rubens , Van Dyck , Hob bema, and Frans Hals ; among the latter are works of De Braekeleer, Coomans, Gallait, Verboeckhoven , and Wappers. A flag hoisted on the palace announces the presence of the king. ܕ > Palais de la Nation . BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 81 Near the Royal Palace, at the corner of the Rue Ducale, is situated the Palais Ducal, or Palais des Académies (Pl . E, 4 ), formerly that of the Prince of Orange. It was erected at the national expense, and presented to the Prince, afterwards King William II . of Holland (d. 1849), in 1829. Since 1842 it has been the property of the Belgian government. The building has been occupied since 1877 by the Académie Royale des Lettres, Beaux - Arts, et Sciences , and the Académie Royale de Médecine. The GRANDE SALLE on the first floor , a very handsome room, has been decorated by Slingeneyer with twelve finely - executed mural paintings, representing the most important events in the political and social history of Belgium. 1. The ancient Belgians under Ambiorix swearing to deliver their country from the Roman yoke, B.C. 54 ; 2. Clovis at the battle of Zülpich, vowing to introduce Christianity, A.D. 496 ; 3. Influence of Char lemagne: the Emperor in the school of Héristal , 768-814 ; 4. The cul minating period of chivalry : Godfrey de Bouillon visiting the Holy Se pulchre after the conquest of Jerusalem , 1099 ; 4. Culminating period of civic prosperity : Jacques Van Arteveldé advising the Flemish towns to remain neutral in the wars between France and England, 1337 ; 6. Cul minating period of the power of the guilds : Anneessens (p . 105 ), the energetic defender of the rights of the guilds against the Austrian supre macy, before his execution , 1719 ; 7. Establishment of the present reigning family , 1831; 8. The fine arts : Albert and Isabella of Austria, after their entry into Louvain , attend the historical teaching of Justus Lipsius ; 9. Music : Willaert, Clément, Lassus, Gretry, etc. ; 10.Ancient art : Philippe le Bon of Burgundy visiting Jan and Margaret Van Eyck ; on the wall a portrait of Hubert Van Eyck ; 11. Modern art : Rubens returning to his native country, and received by Van Dyck, Snyders, Jordaens, etc.; 12. Natural science : Vesalius the anatomist on the field of battle as the military physician of Charles V. The garden which surrounds the palace is adorned with a marble statue of Quetelet, the astronomer ( 1776-1874 ), by Fraikin, erected in 1880 (in front of the palace) , and with the Victor, a bronze figure by J. Geefs, a statue of Cain by Jehotte, and a Discus - thrower by Kessels ( at the back ). In the Rue de la Loi, which skirts the N. side of the park , rises the Palais de la Nation (Pl. E, 3) , erected in 1779-83 from a design by Guimard for the assemblies of the old Council of Brabant, used as the Palais des Etats Généraux from 1817 to 1830, and now for the sittings of the Belgian Senate and the Chamber of Deputies. The reliefs in the pediment , by Godecharle ( 1782), are illustrative of the administration of justice . The interior of the main building was entirely destroyed by fire in 1883 , but it has since been com pletely restored . The buildings adjoining the Palais de la Nation on the E. and W. are occupied by government -offices. Opposite, in the N.E. angle of the park , stands the building known as Vauxhall (Pl. E, 3 , 4 ; comp. p. 76) , partly occupied by the Cercle Artistique et Littéraire ; near it is the Théâtre du Parc (Pl. 67). The Rue de la Loi ends at the Parc du Cinquantenaire, formerly the drill-ground (see Map, p. 114 ), in which rises the exhibition building of 1880, now known as the Palais du Cinquantenaire. BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 6 > 82 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Musée d'Art. The North Wing contains the Musée d'Art Monumental etIndustriel , the South Wing or Palais du Peuple is to contain a national museum . These wings are to be united by a great central building. A separate pavilion behind accommodates the Musée Scolaire de l'Etat. The Musée d'Art Monumental et Industriel ( adm. see p . 76) is divided into three sections . 1. MUSÉE D'ART MONUMENTAL, in the main hall of the N. wing, consisting of a collection of casts of ancient and modern works of art. Specially noteworthy are the reproductions of mediæval and Renaissance sculptures from Oudenaarde, Léau (Church of St. Leon hard ), Louvain, and other Flemish towns . 2. MUSEE D'ART DECORATIF, in the outer rooms of the crescent shaped gallery adjoining the main hall , entered from that hall and from the central passage . It contains designs for wall- paintings and stained-glass, copies of early works , etc. To the left of the entrance : Sketches for F. Geselchap's frescoes in the Arsenal at Berlin ; beneath, coloured Japanese pictures, chiefly of the 18th century. On the outer (concave ) wall : J. Swerts, St. George; J. Diericks, Spring, copy after Sandro Botticelli ( Florence ); M. Than, Attila's banquet (Pest) ; beneath , J. Swerts, Sketches for the mural decoration of the cathedral at Prague ; E. Agneesens, Two sketches of decorative figures ; G. Guffens, Entry of Philip the Bold into Ypres ( p . 29) ; farther on , on the same wall, coloured sketch of the same. Beneath , X. Mellery, Drawings of the bronze figures at the Petit-Sablon (p. 101 ) ; above, and elsewhere the hall , W. Geets, Eight patterns for the tapestries in the Gothic hall of the Hôtel de Ville at Brussels ( p. 103) . Farther on , copies after Rembrandt ( de Staalmeesters and the Night Watch, pp. 326, 320), H. van der Goes, F.Hals, Van Dyck , Murillo, etc .; F.Geselschap , War, large cartoon for the painting in Berlin (comp. above); Puvis de Chavannes, Pro patria ludus, cartoon for the painting in Amiens ; beneath , H. Lévy, Sermon and Death of St. Dionysius , Coronation of Charlemagne ( at St. Merry and the Panthéon in Paris ). Then J. P. Laurens, Sketches for ceiling -paintings ; Puvis de Chavannes, St. Radegunda in the convent of Ste. Croix, and Charles Martel victorious over the Saracens, two smaller cartoons (Poitiers); F. Geselschap, Valhalla , cartoon for the painting at Berlin (see above) ; G. Guffens, Crusaders under Baldwin IX . of Flanders leaving Courtrai , large cartoon ( p. 56) ; beneath, nine designs for the mural decoration of the Halles at Ypres ( p . 28 ), by Ch. Degroux. On the inner wall : Copies after Giotto , Masaccio , Fra Angelico, Raphael, Titian , Luini, Primaticcio ( Fontainebleau) , Paolo Veronese, etc., by G. Vanaise, H. Evrard, X. Mellery, etc. Cartoons : E. Lévy, TheWedding, The Family (Salle des Mariages of a mairie in Paris) ; Puvis de Chavannes , Legend of St. Geneviève ( Panthéon at Paris) ; H. Lévy, Fraternity, a deco rative painting. At various points throughout the hall are numerous designs for stained windows in various Belgian churches, by B. van Orley, Th. van Thulden , J. de la Baer' , etc. Finally some sculptures : A. Ströbl, Pergeus ; reduced copy of Rauch's monument to Frederick the Great in Berlin ; E. Fremiet, Joan of Arc (Paris ); model of the monument of Breydel and De Coninck at Bruges , by Devigne- Quyo. 3. MUSÉE D'ART INDUSTRIBL ANCIEN, in the inner curve of the gallery, which is divided into a large main hall and five side-rooms, somewhat higher. It contains the antiquities formerly exhibited in the Porte de Hal (p . 113). Catalogues for some of the sections are published . LARGE Room , immediately to the right of the entrance from the main hall (see above) : Case with antique bronze articles and two cases 7 Musée d'Art. BRUSSELS. 12. Route . 83 with Egyptian antiquities . In the corner and the central range mummies and sarcophagi from Egypt ; large terracotta funeral urn ; inscriptions. Then follow 24 tables and cases with articles in stone ( hatchets, hammers, arrow and lance - heads, etc. ) , terracotta (lamps, figures, dishes, cups, Greek and Etruscan vases, Gallic pottery, etc.), bronze, and iron (swords, spear- heads, hatchets, helmets, shields, horse -shoes, figures, or naments, some of gold, etc.). Two cases on the left side of the room contain Roman antiquities in bronze, terracotta , and glass, found in Belgium . In the centre of the room is another show-table with seals and im pressions ; and two tables with ancient weights and measures. Two cases with ivory carvings: to the left : * 1 Reliquary shaped like a Romanesque church ( from the middle Rhine ;. 12th cent. ), elephant's tugk with Ro manesque gold mounting, Rom nesque and Gothic book-covers, etc. , of the 11-15th cent.; large Byzantine diptych (8th cent . ) ; combs, etc .; to the right: 15-17. Goblets with very fine Renaissance reliefs ( Triumph of Bacchus ; Birth of Venus ; Battle of Amazons). Three cases with re liquaries and other ecclesiastical articles ; in the middle : *22. Head of Pope St. Alexander, in silver, on an enamelled reliquary ( 12th or 13th cent. ) ; costly reliquaries in gold , adorned with enamels, gems, and figures ( 13th cent. ) ; to the left : Byzantine and other enamelled crucifixes, set with jewels ; beneath , Cross in rock-crystal with ivory figures ( 13th cent. ) ; cups ; monstrances ; to the right : reliquaries in the shape of sarco phagi or small altars, Romanesque (10-12th cent . ) and Gothic ( 14th cent. ) . The following large case contains goldsmith's work : large flat dishes with beaten reliefs (16-17th cent.) ; goblets ; ostrich -egg in a costly setting ; crown with gemg (11th cent.) ; insignia of the presidents of a guild ; enamelled plaques with Scriptural scenes . By the left wall are two cases with Coptic embroideries, antique glass, and ecclesiastical sculptures ; carved woo figures, some painted and gilded ; Gothic * Altar in carved wood, with the Martyrdom of St. George , by Johann Borremans ( 1493 ) ; beneath , Antependium , with stamped gilt ornamentation (17th cent.). To the right and left, two large brasses, with engraved figures ( 14th and 16th cent.). Farther on is a case with various domestic and ecclesiastical articles in bronze and other metals (locks, pitchers, bowls, platters, candelabra, small bronze sculptures, bells , cen sers, etc.). In the middle of the room : Three Gothic choir - desks, in metal ( 15th cent.) ; two large metal candelabra ( 12-13th cent. ) ; * Romanesque font, cast in bronze (12th cent . ) , with noteworthy figures in high relief ; four stone fonts in the Romanesque style ( 12th cent.) and one in the Gothic style (15th cent. ) . Then a case with Italian faïence : platters and vessels ; three cases with Dutch and German earthenware ; jugs, bowls , etc.; and a case with porcelain from Tournai and Brussels : 190. Large vase with floral garlands ( 18th cent.). [ There are two special catalogues for the porcelain and faïence collections. ] Case with ornamented caskets and boxes in wood and metal . On the right side of the room is a Gothic altar in carved wood , painted and gilded, with scenes from the life of Christ (15th or 16th cent. ) . Opposite is a case with Chinese and Japanese faïence and porcelain. In the middle of the room : Table with watches, clocks , etc .; case with Dresden and Sèvres china ; case with German glass ; two cases with Venetian glags ; table with Chinese and Japanese porcelain ; table with Chinese ivory-carvings; case with Brussels lace ; case with lace from Hungary and the Balkan Peninsula. Left wall : Case with ecclesiastical vestments ; Gothic altar in carved wood, with the Martyrdoms of SS . Ludgerus and Barbara ( 1530 ); beside it , large brags with engraved figures and enamelled coat-of-arms ( 1554 ). In the middle of the room : Iwo chariots, a sledge, and a litter, of the 18th cent. - At the end of the hall : Funeral monuments, grave- slabs of the 13-15th cent. , originally inlaid with metal ; decorative sculptures from Gothic buildings; painted and stamped tiles of the 16-17th cent.; Dutch wall-tiles , with pictures. On the walls of the hall are tapestries of the 15-18th cent . , chiefly from Brugsels and Oudenaarde. The 1st Side- Room contains Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities 6 * 84 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Musée d'Art . in terracotta and bronze, forming the Musée de Ravestein, presented to the Museum by M. de Meester de Ravestein , for fourteen years Belgian minister at the Vatican. There is a special catalogue of this collection , by M. Ravestein himself ( 1 fr .). Immediately to the right of the entrance from the lower room are two wall- cases with Egyptian antiquities in wood, bronze, terracotta , and stone. -· By the window -wall and in the window recesses are ten cases with an extensive collection of bronze articles : tripods , lamps, candelabra, boxes, vessels, handles and bilts of various shapes, animals, bells , weapons, helmets, greaves, masks, weights ; also numerous small' bronze figures. In Case 8 ° (beginning from the right): 860. Victoria, found near Dijon ; 861. Mercury. Cage 9 : 846. Venus; 880. Hercules; 835. Minerva. Cage 10 821. Jupiter with the thunderbolt ; 903. Ajax plunging his sword into his breast (of doubtful antiquity) ; 945. Samnite warrior. - Then two cases with terracottas from Italy and Greece, many of them from Tanagra : masks and heads; reliefs from burial-urns; vessels from Lower Italy in the shape of animals' heads, etc .; 406. Terracotta doll found at Viterbo. The case in the last window - recess contains objects in iron, bronze, terra cotta , glass, stone, etc. , mostly discovered in Belgium . The important COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE VASES begins in the case by the left end - wall (next Room II . ) , and is continued in three cases in the middle of the room. 1st Case : Early Etruscan vases, black with stamped or scratched ornamentation ; Corinthian vases of the 6th cent. B.C. , adorned with bands of animals, figures, etc., including narrow Lekythoi ( filled with perfumes to be used at burials) and round Alabastra or oint ment- vessels . 2nd Case : Specimens illustrating the developed Greek ceramic art of the 5th and 4th cent. B.C.; large panathenæan amphoræ , with a figure of Athene in front and an athletic contest behind, the figures being black on a red ground. To the later style (red figures on a black ground) belong the drinking- vessels in the lower rows, the three largest of which ( to the right) are adorned with dances of satyrs and maenads or drinking-scenes in harmony with the destined use of the vessels . In the upper row : 389. Vase with black figures, signed Nikos thenes ; 408. Vase from Cumæ, with bands of figures in gilt-relief. 3rd Case: Vases from Lower Italy, dating from the period of decadence (4th -2nd cent. B.C.), extravagant in form and decoration. Also black and red vases with stamped figures. 4th Case : 303. Large wide vase, with a battle of Centaurs : beside it , 305 , 306. Theseus overcoming the Mino taar ; beneath. 291-296 . Labours of Hercules . – Between Cases 1 and 2 are six show - tables with a valuable and well-arranged collection of po lished specimens of different coloured marbles . Between Cases 2 and 3, a table with cut stones and paste imitations, and three tables with Roman and other terracotta lamps, with stamped figures. Between Cases 3 and 4, two tables with Roman coins of the republic ; large gold medal pre sented by Pius IX . to M. de Ravestein who escorted him to Gaeta in 1848 ; two tables with glass vessels and beads, and pieces of coloured glass -paste. In the centre, Bust of M. de Ravestein . On the other side of Case 4 is a table with ornaments: 1478. Etruscan head- dress (from a tomb) ; rosette and leaves of thin gold, earrings, gold and bronze necklaces, armlets ; amber beads, etc.; behind, finger -rings and fibulæ . - Table with small bronze articles, keys, portions of locks, nails , knives, spoons, surgical instruments, amulets ; in front, to the left, small flat leaden figures, votive offerings found near Viterbo ; to the right, Etruscan and Roman ivory and bone- carvings. Finally two tables with bronze mirrors , most of which are Etruscan with long handles and engraved figures; round mirror cages, with figures in relief ; 1304. Greek mirror with an archaic winged female figure as handle. SIDE - Rooms II-V, contain furniture and wood -carvings of the 15-18th cent. : cabinets, chests , tables, chairs, chimney -pieces, altar- pieces, etc. Room II . Carved Gothic oak pulpit, with the four evangelists ; Gothic oak confessional ( 16th cent. ) ; late Gothic altar- piece in carved wood, with the Passion and the Resurrection ; above, Carved Gothic oak gallery, with figures of the Apostles ( 15th cent.) . In the centre of the room are three Cathedral. BRUSSELS . 12. Route. 85 tables with impressions of seals in terracotta ; Italian desk, with carved reliefs (16th cent.). Room III . Early Gothic altar-piece (or antependium ?), with painted scenes from the life of St. Peter ( 13th cent . ) ; carved and painted Gothic cradle, made for Maximilian I. and said to be the cradle of Charles V., a bronze bust of whom is placed beside it . In the middle room, a table with artistic French locksmiths' work ( 15-16th cent. ) . Room IV. Large Flemish marble chimney-piece, with carved , inlaid , and painted wooden top ( 17th cent. ); carved wood ornaments for a pic ture - frame ( 17th cent. ) . In the middle of the room , show -case with Li moges enamel ( 16th cent . ) ; plaque with head of Jupiter ; flat dishes, etc. ROOM V. Flemish room . The Musée Scolaire National (admission, see p. 76) is a con siderable collection of educational appliances, of Belgian and foreign origin . The 1st Room shows the developement of Froebel's system ; the two following rooms contain appliances for use in primary schools ( Ecoles Primaires) and in teachers' seminaries (Ecoles Nor males ), and work by school -children . In the Rue ROYALE (Pl . E, 4-1 ) , midway between the Rue de la Loi and the Boulevard Botanique, is situated thePlace du Congrès, adorned with the Colonne du Congrès (Pl . 10 ; E, 3), a monument erected to commemorate the Congress of 4th June, 1831 , by which the present constitution of Belgium was established , and Prince Leo pold of Saxe-Cobourg elected king . The column, of the Doric order, 147 ft. in height, is surmounted by a statue of the king in bronze, by W. Geefs. The nine figures in relief below, representing the different provinces of Belgium , are by Simonis. The female figures in bronze at the four corners are emblematical of the Liberty of the Press, the Liberty of Education , both by Jos. Geefs, the Liberty of Associations, by Fraikin , and the Liberty of Public Worship, by Simonis . The names of the members of the Congress and of the pro visional government of 1830 are recorded on marble tablets . The summit, which is reached by a spiral staircase of 192 steps ( trifling fee to the custodian ), commands a magnificent panorama. The two bronze lions at the door are by Simonis. The foundation - stone of the column was laid by King Leopold I. in 1850, and the inauguration took place in 1859. At the foot of the flight of steps which descend to the lower part of the town are situated two Marchés Couverts . The Rue Royale , with its continuation the Rue de la Régence, presents a very striking appearance as viewed from the Place Royale, e.g. in front of the Hôtel de Bellevue (Pl. a ; E, 4 ), whence we command the entire range of imposing buildings from the Palais de Justice (p. 103) to the church of Ste . Marie at Schaerbeek ( p . 111). The * Cathedral (Ste . Gudule et St. Michel ; Pl. E, 3 ) in the vicinity, situated on a somewhat abrupt slope overlooking the lower part of the town , is an imposing Gothic church consisting of nave and aisles , with a retro- choir, and deep bays resembling chapels. The church was begun about the year 1220 , on the site of an earlier building, consecrated in 1047. A few traces of the transitional style of this period are still observable in the retro -choir. The 86 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Cathedral, 7 rest of the choir, the transept, the arcades of the nave, and the S. aisle are early-Gothic, and were completed in 1273. The N. aisle, and the vaulting and windows of the nave were constructed between 1350 and 1450. The windows of the high choir and the unfinished W. towers date from the 15th cent., the large (N.) chapel of the Sacrament from 1534-39, the (S. ) chapel of Notre Dame de Déli vrance from 1649-53 , and the whole was restored in 1848-56. The façade in its principal features rather resembles the German than the French Gothic style . The numerous statuettes recently placed in the niches and consoles of the portal are unfortunately out of keeping with the Gothic character of the building. The W. entrance is approached by a handsome flight of steps, completed in 1861 . The INTERIOR (the works of art are shown from 12 to 4 only , when 1 fr., or, if a party, 50 c. each , must be contributed to the funds of the church, besides which the sacristan expects a fee for opening the chapels ; entrance by the s . transept) is of simple but noble proportions, and measures 118 yds . in length by 55 yds. in breadth. The nave rests on twelve round pillars and six buttresses, the choir on ten round columns. The beautiful * Stained Glass dates from different periods , from the 13th cent. down to modern times. The finest is that in the * CHAPEL OF THE SACRAMENT (N .; adjoining the choir on the left) , consisting of five windows presented in 1540-47 by five of the most powerful Roman Catholic poten tates of Europe, in honour of certain wonder -working Hosts (comp. p. 108) . Each window bears the portraits of the donorswith their patron saints : 1st window (beginning from the left), John III . of Portugal and his queen Catherine, a sister of Charles V.; 2nd, Louis of Hungary and his queen Maria, another sister of Charles V ; 3rd , Francis I. of France and his queen Eleonora , a third sister of Charles V .; 4th, Ferdinand I. of Austria , brother of Charles V. , and his queen ; 5th (above the altar) Charles V. and his queen Eleonora Louise. The first two windows were executed by Jan Haeck from designs by Michael Coxie, the third is by Bernard van Orley, and the fifth is a skilful modern reproduction ( 1848 ), by Capronnier from designs by Navez, of the old one, which had been un fortunately destroyed. The representations in the upper half of the win dows depict the story of the Hosts, which were stolen by Jews and sacri legiously transfixed in their synagogue. The scoffers were so terrified by their miraculous bleeding that they determined to restore them ; but their crime was denounced and expiated by death. The top of the 5th window represents the adoration of the Lamb and the Sacred Hosts . The Gothic altar in carved wood(by Goyers, 1849) is beautifully executed. The windows of the CHAPEL OF NOTRE DAME DE DÉLIVRANCE ( S. side) , executed in 1656 by J. de la Baer of Antwerp, from designs by Theod. van Thulden , are inferior both in drawing and colouring to those just described , but are notwithstanding excellent examples of 17th cent. art (school of Rubens). They represent episodes from the life of the Virgin, with portraits of Archduke Leopold (d . 1662) , Archduke Albert (d. 1621), and the Archduchess Isabella Clara Eugenia (d . 1633) ; then Emp. Ferdi nand II . ( d. 1658) and Leopold I. ( d. 1705) . The same chapel contains a

• Monument in marble, by W. Geefs, to Count Frederick de Merode, who fell in a skirmish with the Dutch at Berchem in 1830 . The armorial bearings

of the Merode family have the commendable motto : ' Plus d'honneur que d'honneurs '. Over the monument, the Assumption , a large modern pic ture by Navez . This chapel also contains a marble monument to Count Philip Balthazar de Merode (d. 1857 ), an elder brother of the last-named, a well-knownBelgian statesman, by Fraikin , and one of the Spanish general Count Isenburg -Grenzau ( d. 1664), the last of a noble Rhenish family. The five stained- glass windows of the High Choir, dating from the middle of the 16th cent., contain portraits of Maximilian of Austria and his queen Mary of Burgundy ; their son Philippe le Bel and his queen Banque Nationale. BRUSSELS . 12. Route. 87 Johanna of Castile ; Emp. Charles V. and Ferdinand, sons of the latter ; Philip II ., son of Charles V. , with his first wife, Maria of Portugal; Phi libert, Duke of Savoy, and Margaret of Austria . Below is the monument of Duke John II. of Brabant ( d . 1312 ) and his duchess Margaret of York, in black marble, with a recumbent lion in gilded copper, cast in 1610 ; opposite to it, the monument, with recumbentfigure, of Archduke Ernest ( d . 1595) , brother of Emp. Rudolph II . and stadtholder of the Netherlands . Both monuments were erected by Archduke Albert (brother of Ernest) in 1610. A white marble slab covers the entrance to the burial- vaults of the princes of the House of Austria . The RETRO -Choir contains four stained -glass windows executed by Ca pronnier in 1879 from designs by Navez ; the subjects are taken from the history of the Patriarchs and the Children of Israel , from the life of Christ, and from the history of the Christian church . In the rococo chapel behind the high- altar is an altar from the Abbaye de la Cambre ( p. 115 ). The stained glass, bearing figures of saints and the arms of the Merode family, is also by Capronnier ( 1843 ). TRANSEPT. * Stained glass: Charles V. and his queen , with their patron - saints ( N.); Louis III, of Hungary and bis queen, by Bernard van Orley, 1538 ( S.) . Opposite the N. chapel , winged picture representing scenes from the life of St. Gudule , by Coxie ( 1592 ) ; opposite the S. chapel, Crucifixion, by the same artist . The well-executed and richly-coloured stained glass in the Nave is all by Capronnier, having been presented by the king, the royal family, and wealthy Belgian citizens , and put up in 1860-80 ; the subjects also refer to the story of the stolen Hosts ( see p. 86) , beginning in the s. aisle , by the transept. The window of the W. Portal, a Last Judgment by F. Floris, remarkable for the crowd of figures it contains, dates from 1528 , but has been frequently ed. Four of the massive statues of the Twelve Apostles on the pillars of the nave (Paul, Bartholomew, Thomas, Matthew ) are by Jer. Duquesnoy ; three others ( John, Andrew, Thaddæus) are by Fayd'herbe (d. 1694 ). The * Pulpit, originally in the church of the Jesuits at Louvain , was executed in 1999 by the celebrated Verbruggen . It is a representation in carved wood of the Expulsion from Paradise. Among the foliage are all kinds of animals , å bear , dog , cat, fox, eagle, vulture, peacock , owl, dove, squirrel, ape eating an apple , etc. Above is the Virgin with the Child , who crushes the head of the serpent with the cross. - In the aisles : confessionals by Van Delen ( 18th cent.); in the S. aisle is the monument of Canon Triest (d. 1846 ), noted at Brussels for his benevolence, by Eug. Simonis; a marble monument to Count Cornet de Ways-Ruart, by Geefs , 1872 (Faith supporting old age and elevating youth ). The marble-reliefs of the stations on the way to Calvary are by P. Puyenbroeck. Some of the tombstones of the 16th cent. deserve notice. The government and the city have for many years expended considerable sums annually on the embellishment of the sacred edifice. The Tower commands a beautiful view ; ascent, 1 pers . 2 fr ., 2 or more pers. 3 fr. The handsome new building opposite the cathedral , to the N. , is the * Banque Nationale (Pl . 4 ; E, 3) , one of the best modern buildings in Brussels, designed by H. Beyaert and Janssens, and exhibiting a free treatment of the Louis XVI. style. The allegori cal figures of Industry and Commerce over the pediment are by Wiener , the rest of the sculptural ornamentation by Houtstout. The interior is also worth inspection (entrance in the Rue Berlaimont ). To the E. of Ste. Gudule , between the Rue de Ligne and the Rue Treurenberg (Pl . E, 3), are a tower and a passage, relics of the old wall of 1040 (p . 77 ). The Place ROYALE (Pl . E, 4), adjacent to the S.W. corner of 88 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Royal Library. the Park, owes its present appearance to the architect Guimard, 1778 (comp. p . 80 ). On the left stands the church of St. Jacques sur Caudenberg ( Froidmont, ' cold mountainº; Pl . 16), a handsome and chaste edifice with a portico of the Corinthian order , begun by Guimard in 1776 on the site of an old Augustine abbey, and com pleted by Montoyer in 1785. Above the portico are statues of Moses by Olivier, and David by Janssens. The tympanum contains a fresco, by Portaels, representing the Virgin as the comforter of the afflicted ( 1852). The interior contains, to the right and left of the choir, allegorical figures of the Old and New Test ent , by Godecharle. In front of the church rises the equestrian * Statue of Godfrey de Bouillon (Pl . 60), the hero of the first Crusade, grasping the banner of the Cross in his right hand, probably the finest modern Belgian work of the kind , designed by Simonis. It was erected in 1848, on the spot where, in 1097, Godfrey is said to have exhorted the Flemings to participate in the Crusade, and to have concluded his appeal with the words ' Dieu li volt ' (God wills it ). Opposite is the MONTAGNE DB LA COUR, which contains several of the most attractive shops in Brussels, and through which, in spite of its steepness , passes a constant stream of omnibuses, carriages, and other vehicles (comp. p. 107) . To the S.W. , between the palace of the Count Fla lers and the new Palais des Beaux-Arts, diverges the Rue de la Régence (p . 93). The archway in the W. angle of the Place Royale leads to the oblong PLACE DU MUSÉB ( P1. D, 4 ), the right side ofwhich is flank ed by the hotels and restaurants mentioned at pp. 72, 73, while to the left rises the Royal Library ( Pl. 5), with a court facing the street and separated from it by a stone balustrade . In the court is a statue in bronze (by Jehotte , 1846) of Duke Charles of Lorraine ( p. 78 ). Behind the statue is the entrance to the Library, which con sists of six departments : (1 ) Printed Books; (2) MSS. ; (3 ) Engrav ings and Maps ; ( 4 ) Coins and Medals ; (5 ) Offices ; (6) Periodicals. The DEPARTMENT OF THE PRINTED BOOKS (300,000 vols. ) is in the left wing of the Palais de l'Industrie . The nucleus of the collection was the library of a M. van Hulthem, purchased by the state in 1837 for 315,000 fr., and incorporated with the old municipal library. The Library Hall (10-31 in summer 10-4 ; closed during Passion Week ) contains a series of portraits of the sovereigns of the country down to Maria Theresa and Joseph II . In a cabinet here are exhibited some beautiful Chinese drawings. The Cham bers grant an annual subsidy of60-65,000 fr. for the support of the Library. The DEPARTMENT OF THE MSS. consists chiefly of the celebrated Biblio thèque de Bourgogne, founded in the 15th cent. by Philippe le Bon , Duke of Burgundy, and contains about 12,000 MSS. , comprising many of great value. It is especially rich in missals, some of which are illuminated with beautiful miniatures of the old Flemish school. Worthy of notice are : the missal of the Dukes of Burgundy, by Attavante of Florence ( 1485 ), afterwards in possession of Matthew Corvinus, King of Hungary; the chronicles of Hainault in seven folio volumes with miniature illustra tions , and an illustratedtitle- page ( the author Jacques de Guise presenting his work to Philip the Good) , ascribed, though without sufficient grounds, to , Roger van der Weyden ; and a copy of Xenophon's Cyropædia, used by Charles the Bold. Also , ' Pardon accordé par Charles V. aux Gantois' Musée Moderne. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 89 > ( p . 44) of 1540 , MSS. as far back as the 7th cent., playing -cards manu factured at Ulm in 1594, autographs of Francis I., Henri IV ., Philip II . , Alva, Luther , Voltaire, Rubens, etc. Most of the books in the Burgun dian Library are bound in red morocco. The most valuable MSS. have twice been carried away to Paris by the French . The admirably -arranged Collection of Engravings (60,000 in number) is worthy of notice ; it is entered from the Musée de Peinture . The Flemish masters are admirably represented. One of the most interesting plates is an engraving of 1418, found at Malines . - The Collection of Coins is also of importance; adm. 12-3, entrance Rue du Musée 5. L'ANCIENNE COUR, a building adjoining the Palais de l'Industrie on the E. , was the residence of the Austrian stadtholders of the Netherlands after 1731 , when the old ducal palace (in the present Place Royale ) was destroyed by fire . Part of the ground- floor is now fitted up as a library and part contains the cabinet of natural history ( p . 112 ; entrance from the court), while on the upper story are the collection of modern paintings, and rooms used for art exhibitions, etc. (to the right of the rotunda) . The chapel to the right of the entrance , erected in 1760 , and devoted to Protestant worship in 1803, is known as the Église du Musée (French and Ger man services on Sundays). The * Musée Moderne embraces upwards of 220 paintings and 40 water- colour and other drawings, etc. , displayed in 8 rooms for merly occupied by the gallery of ancient art , which is now removed to the Palais des Beaux- Arts (p. 93) . There is no catalogue. In the following description the paintings upon wall A (comp. the Plan, p . 90), in each room , are first noticed, then those on walls B, C, D. The rearrangement of the paintings occasioned by the art-exhibi tion of 1890 is not yet finally determined , so that the previous order is followed in the following description . The ENTRANCE (comp. p . 77) is in the crescent at the N.W. end of the Place du Musée. From the circular entrance-hall we proceed through the glass- door to the left to the staircase , at the foot of which is a statue of Hercules by Delvaux . Sticks and um brellas are left here with the custodian (no charge ). At the top of the staircase we reach another rotunda, where a door to the left leads to the Musée Moderne. The hall has recently undergone an exten sive restoration . The staircase is of marble , and the lower part of the walls is covered with the same material. The upper part is oc cupied by plastic decorations in the style of Louis XVI.; the ceiling frescoes, representing the seasons, are by J. Stallaert. Room I. is at present empty. Room II . contains water - colours , drawings, designs , crayons . etc. , by various Belgian masters ; also cartoons. Room III. F. de Braekeleer, The Golden Wedding ; Carpentiers, Strangers ; F. de Braekeleer , Distribution of fruit at a school ( ' le comte de micarême'); Gudin, Sea -piece ; C. de Groux, Recruits departing ; Baron, Landscape ; Vaneycken, Episode in the life of Francesco Mazzuoli; Chabry, Ruinsof Thebes ( Egypt); Vanderhecht, Landscape ; E. de Block, Reading the Bible . 90 Route 12 . BRUSSELS. Musée Room IV. Wall B. Louis Robbe , Landscape with cattle ; C. de Vigne, Sunday morning in winter; above , Ch. Verlat, Sheep -dog and eagle ; Smits, The seasons ; A. de Knyff, The deserted gravel- pit ;

• Louis Gallait, Abdication of Emperor Charles V. , a masterpiece of composition, drawing, and colouring ( 1841 ). Charles V. is under the canopy of the throne, supported on the left by William of Orange, at his feet kneels his son Philip II . , on his right is his sister Maria of Hungary in an arm - chair . —Jos. Stevens, Morning in the streets of

Salle flamande VII VI Grande Salle co B D V 2 A IV III I Rotonde II Brussels (1848) ; Al. Markelbach, Rhetoricians of Antwerp prepar ing for a debate ( comp. p . 96 ); F. Bossuet, Procession of patron saints in Seville ; above, J. Kindermans, Scene in the Ardennes ; above, Eug. Verboeckhoven , Shepherd in the Roman Campagna ; above, C. E. G. Wappers, Charles I. on the way to the scaffold . - Wall C. J. Robie, Flowers and fruit ; Fr. Stroobant, The old guild houses in the market - place at Brussels . Wall D. P. van der Ouderaa , The last refuge ( the family Mundi of Douai saved by the Clarissine nuns from the Spaniards during the sack of Antwerp, Nov. 4th , 1576) ; J. B. van Moer, Interior of the church of Santa Maria at Belem (near Lisbon ); N. de Keyser , Justus Lipsius ; above, Charles de Grour, Junius preaching the Reformation in a house at Antwerp , with the light from the stake shining through the Moderne. BRUSSELS. 12. Route . 91 window ; above , J. van Lerius , Erasmus ; *L. Gallait , The Plague in Tournai (1092), one of the artist's most celebrated pictures ( finished in 1882). The picture represents the moment when the procession , arranged by Bishop Radbold II , to intercede for the with drawal of the pestilence , is leaving the church and passing under an archway which leads to the most densely populated part of the town . The Bishop walks in front in penitential robes, followed by the chief citizens bearing a figure of the Virgin Mary. F. Rof fiaen , Monte Rosa from the Riffel. Room V. Wall A. A. de Knyff, Forest of Stolen. Wall B. Lybaert , St. Magdalene ; E. Slingeneyer, Battle of Lepanto ; C. T'schag geny, Diligence in the Ardennes; above, J. Stevens, Dog-market in Paris. - Wall C. Clays, Coast near Ostend (1863), Antwerp Roads ; Leys, Joyful entry of Charles V. into Antwerp (repetition of the fresco in the Hôtel de Ville at Antwerp, see p. 147). Wall D. J. Coomans , The ' Loving Cup” ; A. Verwée, Cattle ; *J. Verhas, Review of the Schools (on the occasion of the silver wedding of the King and Queen of the Belgians in 1878) , a well- known picture. The procession, headed by girls in white dresses led by their teachers, is passing the Palace, in front of which are the King and Queen, the Emperor of Austria, and the Count of Flanders, with their suites. The burgomaster and sheriffs of Brussels are also in the procession. All the heads are portraits. Room VI. Wall A. J. B. Madou, The mischief - maker ( Flemish scene, 18th cent.) ; L. Gallait, Conquest of Antioch. Wall B. T. Fourmois, The mill; * H. Leys, Funeral mass for Berthall de Haze, armourer of Antwerp . - Wall C. A. Stevens, Ladybird. — Wall D. J. Robie, Grapes ; L. Gallait , Art and Liberty ; E. Delacroix , Apollo and the Python, a sketch . - In the corners : L. Gallait , Full - length portraits of Leopold II, and his queen. In another corner is a costly Sèvres vase, presented by the French Republic. Room VII. Wall A. Huberti, Landscape; above , J. Quinaux, Scene in Dauphiné ; to the right of the door, Meunier, Peasants of Brabant defending themselves in 1797. Wall B. F. Courtens, Return from church ( afternoon ); J. B. van Moer, View of Brussels (1868) ; C. Hermans, Morning in the streets of Brussels ; J. Lies , Prisoners of war ; F. v . Leemputten , Peasants going to work. Wall C. * C . Cluysenaar, Canossa. Wall D. E. J. Verboeck hoven, Flock of sheep in a thunder-storm ( 1839) ; A. de Vriendt, Citizens of Ghent doing homage at the cradle of Charles V.; J. T. Coosemans, Fir-wood by twilight; Dillens , Austrian wooers in the Netherlands; above , E. de Pratere, Farm-horses. We now enter the LARGE GALLERY , which is divided by clustered columns into five sections. Beside the pillars are four bronze or marble busts of Flemish painters. Fifth Section . Wall B. Hamesse, Landscape ; Gallait , Portrait ; - 92 Route 12 . BRUSSELS. Musée Moderne. Beernaert, Edge of a wood in Zealand ; *E. de Bièfve, The Compro mise, or Petition ofthe Netherlandish nobles in 1565. Count Hoorn is represented as signing the document, Egmont in an arm-chair ; at the table Philip de Marnix, in a suit of armour ; in the foreground Wil liam of Orange, in a dark-blue garment ; beside him, Martigny in white satin , and behind him the Duc d'Arenberg. The Count Bre derode , under the portico to the left, is inviting others to embrace the good cause . This picture and Gallait's Abdication of Charles V. mark a new epoch in the history of modern Belgium art . They were exhibited in most of the European capitals in 1843, where they gained universal admiration, and they have contributed materially to the development of the realistic style of painting , in which colour plays so prominent a part. Boulenger, Autumn morning ; Gallait, Lady and child (portraits). - Wall C. J. Impens, Flemish tavern ; H. de Caisnes , Belgium crowning her famous sons ; C. de Groux, Grace before meat. Wall D. Dansaert, Diplomats ; Gallait, The wedding-dress ; Kindermans, Scene in the Amblève valley ; * N. de Keyser, Battle of Worringen (1288) ; Siegfried of Westerburg , Archbishop of Cologne , standing before his captors Duke John I. of Brabant and CountAdolph of Berg ( 1839) ; Braekeleer, Spinner ; Gallait , Gipsy ; T. Gérard, Village festival in Swabia. Fourth Section . Wall D. Musin, Landscape ; A. Serreche , Con cert. - Wall B. De Block, The convalescent . Third Section . Wall B. A. Hennebicq, Labourers in the Ro man Campagna ; above, De Cocq, Cattle in a wood ; H. Boulenger , View of Dinant ; above, L. Matthieu, Entombment ( 1848) ; F. Pauwels, The widow of Jacques van Artevelde giving up her jewels for the state ; H , Leys, Restoration of the Roman Catholic service in Antwerp Cathedral (1845) ; H. Bource, Bad news ; Thomas , Barabbas and the body of Christ ; J. H. L. de Haas, Cows at pas ture ; A. Stevens, Lady in a light pink dress ; F. Lamorinière, Landscape near Edeghem ; V. Lagye, The visit to the sorceress . Opposite Wall D. Dubois, Still-life ; J. Portaels, The Daughter of Zion, an allegorical representation ; Asselbergs, Landscape ; G.J.A. van Luppen , Spring-landscape ; above, E.J. de Pratere, Cattle-market in Brussels; E. Wauters, The Prior of the Augustine monastery to which Hugo van der Goes had retired tries to cure the painter's madness by means of music ; Fourmois, Landscape ; J. Portaels , Simoom ; Baugniet, Visiting the widow ; above , L. Robbe, Cattle . Second Section . Wall B. H. Leys , Studio of Frans Floris ; P. J. Clays, Calm on the Schelde ; V. Kuyck , Stable ; A. Verwée, Cattle by a river ; Gallait, Autumn ; J. B. Madou, Festival ; de Jonghe, The young mother ; above, J. Czermak, Spoils of war in the Herzegovina (Christian girls captured for the slave -market by Bashi- Bazouks) . Wall D. C. de Groux, Drunkard by the corpse of his neglected wife; J. B. Madou , A question of fate ; De Pratere, Asses' heads ; A. Robert , Plundering of the Carmelite Convent in Antwerp at the 9 Palais des Beaux-Arts . BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 93 end of the 16th century ; C. E. G. Wappers , Beginning of the Re volution of 1830 at the Hôtel de Ville in Brussels ; the people tearing the proclamation (24th Sept. ) of Prince Frederick of the Nether lands ; H. de Braekeleer, The geographer; A. Thomas, Judas on the night after the condemnation of Jesus ; Gallait, Count Barthélémy de Mortier; Robbe, Bull attacked by dogs. First Section . Wall D. Ch . Ooms, Forbidden fruit; H. Boulenger, Landscape ; A. Stevens, The widow and her children ; W. Roelofs, Landscape; above, Hubert, Cuirassiers at Waterloo ; J. Lies , Baldwin III. of Flanders nish robber -knights; E. de Scham pheleer , River - scene near Gouda ; A. de Vriendt, Excommuni cation of Bouchard d'Avesnes (on account of his marriage with Mar garet of Flanders) ; above, * Ch. Verlat, Godfrey de Bouillon at the storming of Jerusalem ; F. Huygens, Flowers . Wall B. T'Scharner, Landscape in winter; Stevens, Salome; Quinaux, Landscape ; Cluysenaar, The future painter ; C. van Camp, Death of Mary of Burgundy ( p . 17) ; Rosseels, Landscape. Portaels, Box in the theatre at Pest ; above, Ph. van Brée, Interior of St. Peter's at Rome on Corpus Christi Day; F. Lamorinière , Landscape ; J. Willems, La Fête chez les Grands-Parents ; A. Verwée, A Zealand team ; above, Stallaert, Death of Dido ; Gallait , Johanna the Mad by the corpse of her husband, Philip the Handsome. Wall A. Beernaert, Woodland scene ; Hunin, Alms- giving. The RUB DE LA RÉGENCB (P1.E, D, 4,5), which leads to the S.W. from the Place Royale (p. 87), is now one of the finest streets in Brussels. Immediatelyto the left stands the Palais du Comte de Flandre ( Pl. 49) , which contains a handsome staircase and is em bellished with sculptures by Van der Stappen and pictures by E. Wauters, Verlat, Stallaert, and others . On the right is the Palais des Beaux- Arts (Pl . 45) , a building finished in 1880, in the classical style , by Balat , the portal of which is flanked by four massive granite columns with bronze bases and capitals. On the tops of the columns are four colossal figures, representing Music, Architecture , Sculpture , and Painting , executed by Degroot, Samain, W. Geefs, and Melot. Above are three bronze medallions : Rubens (in the centre ; by Van Rasbourgh ), Jean de Boulogne (by Cuypers), and Jan van Ruysbroeck (see p . 105 ; by Bouré), and two marble reliefs, the Graphic Arts andMusic, by Brunin and Vincotte. In front of each of the wings stands an allegorical group in bronze ; on the left, Instruction in Art, by P. C. van der Stappen ; on the right Coronation of Art, by P. de Vigne. The Musée de Sculpture is arranged on the ground -floor . The VESTIBULB contains bronze sculptures, including : P. Bouré, Prometheus bound ; Child playing with balls ; L. Mignon, Bull fight; etc. The Main Hall, occupying the entire height of the building, 94 Route 12 . BRUSSELS. Sculpture Gallery. contains chiefly marble sculptures . In the passage to the left : P. C. van der Stappen , The man with the sword ; J. J. Ducaju , Fall of Babylon , a group ; B. Frison, Naiad. Opposite : J. Geefs, Love and Malice ; A. Sopers, Young Neapolitan playing on the rauglia ; E. Simonis, Innocence. To the left : M. Rysbrack, Statue of John Howard, the philanthropist. In the centre of the room : W. Geefs, Statue of King Leopold I.; Th. Vincotte, Busts of King Leopold II . and his queen ; L. Delvaux, The Cardinal Virtues , a small group in marble. -Farther on in the left passage : M. Kessels, Venus leaving the bath ; W. Geefs, The amorous lion ; Jos. Geefs, Fallen Angel (one of his best-known works) . In the passage to the right : C. A. Fraikin , Cupid taken captive; G. Charlier, Prayer ; J. J. Jaquet, - V VI VII IX c 1 X XII IV B Sculptures D VIII XI А Staircase III II Staircase The Golden Age ; J. de Braekeleer, Expectation ; M. Kessels, Child with a duck ; A. Cattier, Daphne ; Th. Vincotte, Giotto; A. F. Bouré, Boy playing with a lizard ; A. Fassin , Neapolitan water - seller; J. Cuypers, Hallali ; P. de Vigne, Immortality. On the walls are bronze and marble busts. In two rooms to the left of the main -hall (corresponding to RR. IV and V on the first floor ; comp. Plan) are various plaster casts, and some old paintings, chiefly historical views and portraits of princes of the houses of Burgundy, Orange, and Hapsburg. The smaller room also contains the sketches for the historical procession of 1880 ( jubilee of the Independence of Belgium ). FIRST FLOOR. *Musée de Peinture (Galerie Ancienne). - The Musée Royal de Belgique , or royal picture - gallery , which was Picture Gallery . BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 95 a purchased from the city by the state in 1845, is growing in im portance every year . Formerly inferior to the gallery at Antwerp, it must probably now be considered as the chief collection in Belgium . The Early Flemish School of the 15th cent. is represented by various important pictures, such as Adam and Eve by Hubert van Eyck ( No. 19) , Madonna by Petrus Cristus (No. 21 ), the Legend of the lying empress and the innocent nobleman byDierick Bouts (Nos . 51 , 52 ), and the Holy Family by Quinten Massys ( No. 38) . Flemish and Dutch art of the 17th cent . has also, through judicious purchases, gradually come to be most favourably represented. The pictures by Rubens at Brussels cannot indeed be compared, either in number or beauty , with those at Antwerp ; but his Adoration of the Magi (No. 410) ranks among the finest treatments of this subject, and his portraits and the Virgin in an arbour of roses ( No. 412) also de serve attention . The full-length portrait ofWillem van Heythuysen (No. 283) and a half - length portrait ( No. 282) by Frans Hals, the portraits by Van der Helst (Nos. 291 , 292) and Dou ( No. 258 ), and the large Village Feast by Teniers (No. 465) may also be specified. The names of the painters are affixed to the frames . As the collection is constantly being augmented, the pictures are often re arranged, and some of the more recent acquisitions are not yet numbered . The numbering of the pictures begins in each room on wall A( comp. the Plan, p. 94 ), and is continued to the left, on Walls B , C, D. Rooms I. and III, are at present empty. Room II. Italian, Spanish, and French pictures . Wall A. 225, 227. Al. Sanchez Coello, Portraits of Joanna and Maria of Austria, daughters of Charles V.; 514. Italian School, Madonna with the Holy Child and St. John ; above the last , 199. Paolo Veronese, Holy Family with SS. Theresa and Catharine ; 171. Guercino , Altarpiece ; * 277. Claude Lorrain , Landscape with Æneas hunt ing with Dido ; 478. Andrea del Sarto, Jupiter and Leda ( describ ed by Mr. Crowe as an inferior school -piece) ; 402, 401. Tinto retto , Portraits ; 378. Pannini, Ruins of Rome; above, 197. Paul Veronese, Juno strewing her treasures on Venice, ceiling - painting from the palace of the Doges at Venice ; 154. Albani, Adam and Eve; above, 404. F. de Rossi (Il Salviati) , Christ between two apostles; above, 172. Barocci , Calling of Peter and Andrew ; 226. Coello, Margaret of Parma. Wall B. 460. Strozzi (of Genoa), Portrait; above, 398. Guido Reni, Flight into Egypt. Wall C. 521. Spanish School, Franciscan monk ; 477. Perugino, Madonna and Child with John the Baptist, a round picture framed in a gar land of fruit in terracotta ; above, 198. Paul Veronese, Adoration of the Shepherds ; above, Raph. Mengs, Portrait of Michael-Angelo Cambiaso. Wall D. 203. Ann. Carracci, Diana and Actæon. Room IV. Wall A. No number, J. D. de Heem , Fruit and flowers ; 370. J. van Oost the Younger, Portrait ; * 296 . M. d'Honde 1 96 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Picture Gallery .

• oeter, Cock crowing. · Wall B. 270. Gov. Flinck, Portrait ( 1640) ;

c425 . Sal. van Ruysdael, Theferry ; 311. Jordaens, Satyr and peasant ( from Æsop) ; 466. Teniers the Younger, Picture-gallery of Archduke Leopold William , with the names of the masters on the frames (1651); above, 246. G. de Crayer, Conversion of St. Julian ; 376. A. Palamedes , Chamber -concert, purchased for 11,500 fr. ; 470a. Terburg, Portrait ; 356. A. More, Portrait of Alva;; *258. G. Dou, The painter drawing a Cupid by lamplight ; 367. Adr. van Nieulant, Carnival on the ice on the town - moat of Antwerp ; above, 269. B. Flémalle, Punishment of Heliodorus ; 153. P. Aert sen, The cook ; 316, 317. Th . de Keyser, Two sisters ; no number, Rubens, Four heads; 424a. J. van Ruysdael, Landscape; 331c. * Nic. Maes, Old woman fallen asleep while reading ; 452. Jan Steen , The “Rederyker' (i . e. rhetoricians, or members of “ Rederykamern’ ; these were literary clubs or debating societies, well known in the 16th and 17th centuries, which met on festive occasions to hold recitations and debates) ; *343. G. Metsu , The breakfast ; * 308. Karel du Jardin, Herd of cattle ; above , 491. P. de Vos, Large hunting - piece ; 414a, C, & b. Rubens, Mercury and Argus, Rape of Hippodamia, Fall of the Titans, three small sketches ; 426. Sal. van Ruysdael, Landscape with fishermen ; 428. H. Saftleven, Barn ; 344. Van der Meulen, Army of Louis XIV. at the siege of Tournai ; *409. Rubens , Coronation of the Virgin ; 374. Isaac van Ostade, Woman winding thread ; 266a. A. van Dyck, Small sketch ; David Teniers the Younger, 463. The village-doctor, 462. The five senses ; 285. J. Dav. de Heem , Flowers ; 315. Jordaens, Eleazar and Re becca at thewell, in a landscape by Wildens ; * 417, 418.Rubens, Portraits of Charles de Cordes and his wife, purchased for 130,000 fr .;

• 332. Nic . Maes, Old woman reading ; 500. Phil. Wouverman ,

Hunt ; 363. A. van der Neer, Landscape by night; * 467. Teniers the Younger, Temptation of St. Anthony ; 414. Rubens, Martyrdom of St. Ursula and her companions, a small sketch ; 368. Pourbus, Portrait ; 361. P. Neefs the Elder, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral ; 307. Karel du Jardin , Outpost ; 193. Adr. Brouwer, Boors carousing on the ramparts of Antwerp , bought in 1882 for 13,000 fr.; 284. J.D. de Heem and C. Lambrechts, Allegorical representation of fer tility ; 292a. Barth . van der Helst, Portrait ; 187. J. and A. Both, Italian landscape ; 333. Nic. Maes, Portrait ; above, 271. F. Floris, Last Judgment; 421. Rachael Ruysch , Flowers and fruit; 262. A. van Dyck, Martyrdom of St. Peter ; 261. Dusart , Village - festival ( 1695 ); $282. Fr. Hals, Professor Hoornebeek of Leyden ;. 168. Corn. de Baeilleur , Adoration of the Magi; 200. G. Camphuysen, Rustio interior ; 269a. G. Flinck , Goldsmith's family taking stock ; 231. M. van Coxie, Last Supper ; 289. C. de Heem , Fruit and flowers ; 188a. Jan de Bray, Portrait; 366. Isaac van Nickele (d. 1703) , Groote Kerk at Haarlem ; 347. A. Mignon, Flowers and insects. Wall D. 247. G. de Crayer, Adoration of the shepherds. Picture Gallery. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 97 Room V. 236. G. de Crayer, Martyrdom of St. Blaise , painted in 1667 when the artist was 86 (duplicate in Ghent, see p. 51 ) . – 155, 156 , D. van Alsloot, Procession of St. Gudule in the market place of Brussels ; in the centre of No. 156 is the old ' Halle au Pain' , opposite the Hôtel de Ville . Room VI. Painters of the 18th and early 19th centuries . Wall A. J. B. de Jonghe, Landscape near Tournai; P. J. Helle mans, View from the wood at Soignes. Wall B. F. J. Navez, The young man of greatpossessions, Judgment of Solomon ; F. Goya, Scenes from the Inquisition ( sketch) ; J. L. David, Flute-player, a portrait . · Wall C. A. Lens , Samson and Delilah ; G. J. Her reyns, Adoration of the Magi ; P. J. C. François, Marius on the ruins of Carthage ; F. J. Navez, Hagar and Ishmael , Athaliah test ing Joash ; Ingres, Virgil reading the Ænead aloud ; H. van Assche , Waterfall at Tosa ; J. L. David, Portrait of a boy (study) . Wall D. A. Lens, Bacchus comforting Ariadne , Offerings for Bacchus ; M. J. van Brée, Regulus returning to Carthage, Athenians casting lots for the victims for the Minotaur, Room VII. J. B. de Champaigne, 221. Assumption, 210-219. Scenes from the life of St. Benedict; 445. Snayers, Siege of Cour trai ( 1648) . Room VIII. Wall A. 220. Ph. de Champaigne, Portrait of him self ( 1668); 373. 18. van Ostade, Travellers resting ; 195. Velvet Brueghel, St. Norbert preaching against heresy at Antwerp ; *183. Ferd . Bol, Saskia van Ülenburgh , Rembrandt's wife ; above, 291 , 292. Barth, van der Helst, Portraits of the painter and his wife (?) . Wall C. 360. P. Neefs the Elder, Interior of Antwerp Cathedral; 505. Wynants, Landscape with accessories by A. van de Velde ; above, 434. G. Schalcken , Wax -moulding ; 354. A. More, Portrait of Hubert Goltzius (p. 373) ; 333c. N. Maes, Portrait. - Wall D. 392. A. Pynacker, Landscape with stag-hunt ; 293.J. van Hemessen, Prodigal Son ; 464. Teniers the Younger, Flemish landscape ; 392. J. van Ravesteyn, Portrait; 483. W. van de Velde the Younger, The Zuiderzee ; above , 272. F. Floris and J. Francken, Adoration of the Magi ; 422. Jac. van Ruysdael, Landscape, with accessories by A. van de Velde; 499. Phil. Wouverman, Starting for the chase ; 504, 503. Wynants, Landscapes ; *412. Rubens, Virgin and Child in an arbour of roses , the background by J. Brueghel, formerly in Eng land, bought in 1882 for 75,000 fr.; 454. Jan Steen , Twelfth Night (“ Le roi boit' ) ; 313. Jordaens, Allegorical representation of the vanity of this world ; 497. Em . de Witte, Interior of the church at Delft; 293a, M. Hobbema, Landscape; *455. Jan Steen, The gal lant offer; above , 232. Michiel van Coxie, Death of the Virgin ; *397. Rembrandt, Portrait of a man (1641) ; 469. L. van Uden, Landscape, with accessories by Teniers the Younger ; 194. Adr. Brouwer, Brawl in an ale- house ; 364. Aart van der Neer, Pleasures of winter ; 272a. P. Franchoys, Drinkers; 414d . Rubens , Atalanta andMeleager; 288. BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit . 7 98 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Picture Gallery.

2 J. D. de Heem , Still - life ; 419. Rubens, Portrait ( 1619) ; *283. Frans Hals, Portrait of Wijiem van Heythuysen , founder of the hospital of that name at Haarlem ; 196. Jan Brueghel ( 'Velvet Brueghel'), Autumn ; 249a . B. G. Cuyp, Fisherman ; above, 243. G. de Crayer, The Virgin as the patroness of the Archers of Grand Serment at Brussels ; 337. J. L. de Marne, Festival of a patron saint ; 424. Jac. van Ruysdael, The Haarlemer Meer; 427. Dav. Ryckaert , Chemist in his laboratory ; 299. J. van Huchtenburgh, Battle- piece; no number, P. Potter , Swine; 372.Adr. van Ostade, Flemish trio , purchased for 19,470 fr .; 176a. G. and J. Berck Heyde, Church of Haarlem ; 371. Adr. van Ostade, Peasants eating herrings; 395. Jan van Ravesteyn, Portrait ; 453. Jan Steen , The operation ; above , 166. L. Bakhuysen, Storm off the Norwegian coast ; 397a. Rembrandt, Portrait ; *294. Hobbema, Wood at Haarlem ; 181 , 182. Ferd . Bol, Portraits ; 278. J. van Goyen, View of Dort, figures by A. Cuyp ; J. Matsys , 342. (above) Lot and his daughters, 341. The chaste Susannah ; 496. I. Weenix , Game and fruit (1703) ; 375. A. Palamedesz, Portrait (1650) ; 249. Alb . Cuyp, Stable; * 465. Dav. Teniers the Younger, Flemish village - festival (1652) ; 502. Wynants, Landscape ; 438a. Er. Quellin and Dan. Seghers, Flowers, with a head of Christ in the centre ; 333a, 333b. N. Maes, Portraits;

• 461. Dav. Teniersthe Elder, View of a village, purchased for 10,000 fr.

Room IX. Wall A. 365. Aart van der Neer, The Yssel by moon 163. J. Asselyn, Crossing the ford ; no number, Van Dyck, Study of a head ; 297. Hondecoeter, Dead cock hung on a wall ; 253. Dirk van Delen, Portico of a palace, with accessories by Palamedesz (1642) ; 442. P. Snayers , Battle of the White Hill , near Prague, 1620 ; 184a. Ferd. Bol, Portrait; 501. P. Wouvermann, Riding lesson ; *468. Dav. Teniers the Younger, Portrait ; 473. Tilborgh, Parade of the Knights of the Golden Fleece before the palace of the Duke of Brabant at Brussels ; 176. N. Berchem, Cattle at pasture ; 346. W. van Mieris , Susannah ; 121. Flemish School, Portrait (1504) ; 443. P. Snayers, Battle of Wimpfen (1622), with Tilly in the foreground ; 476a. Adr. van Utrecht, Fruit; 271a. F. Floris, Holy Family ; 254. J. W. Delff, Portrait ; 187a , 187b. Bout, Boude wyns, Landscapes. Wall B. 314. Jordaens, Head of an Apostle, a sketch in colours ; 257. J. van der Does , Herd-boys. Wall C. 444. P. Snayers, Battle of Hæchst, 1622; 430. A. Sallaert, The Infanta Isabella witnessing a competition of the Grand-Serment Archers at Brussels (1615) ; 252a. C. Decker, The wooden bridge ; 498. E. de Witte, Church - interior; 175. N. Berchem, Landscape with ruins ; 295. M. d'Hondecoeter, Entrance of a park ; 431. Sallaert, Procession ; 321. Phil. de Koninck, Dunes; 420. Géricault (1820), St. Martin dividing his cloak with a beggar, copy of a work by Rubens in Windsor Castle ; 476b. Adr. van Utrecht, Kitchen -scene, with accessories by Jordaens; 184. F. Bol,Philosopher; 507. Flemish School, Interior of a picture - gallery ; 286. J.Dav . de Heem , Vanitas ; light ; . Picture Gallery. BRUSSELS . 12. Route. 99 427a. Ryckaert the Younger ,2 Labourers' repast; 26. Maerten van Heemskerck ( properly Van Veen ), Entombment, on the wings portraits of the donor and his wife with their patron- saints ( 1559); 486. T. Veraecht, Adventure of the Emperor Maximilian on the Martins wand. Wall D. *235. G. de Crayer, Miraculous Draught of Fishes , one of the painter's bestworks; 382. N. Pimont, Landscape. Room X. Wall A. 259. F. Duchatel, Two little girls; 310. J. Jordaens, Allegorical representation of fertility ; Ant. van Dyck, 266. Portrait of Delafaille, burgomaster of Antwerp, 265. St. Fran cis of Assisi , 264. St. Anthony of Padua ; 309. J. Jordaens, St. Mar tin casting out a devil ; 387. Pourbus, Portrait (1573) ;476. Ad. van Ostade, Large kitchen interior. Wall B. 237. G. de Crayer, Assumption of St. Catharine ; 415, *416. Rubens, Portraits , over life size , of the Archduke Albert and his consort, the Infanta Isabella, painted for the triumphal arch erected on their entry into Antwerp ( see p. xviii ) ; Rubens, 413. Venus in Vulcan's forge, 407. Assump tion of the Virgin , the principal figure poor, painted for the church of the Carmelites at Antwerp ; 312. J. Jordaens, Triumph of Prince Frederick Henry of Nassau , a sketch ( comp. p . 276 ) ; 490. Corn. de Vos, The painter and his family ; 263. Van Dyck , Drunken Silenus ; 408. Rubens, Pietà. Wall C. 178. Karel Em . Biset , Tell and the apple , with the members of the St. Sebastian Archery Guild repre sented as onlookers ; 300. C. Huysmans, Landscape; 488, 489. Marten de Vos, Portraits ; 411. Rubens, Martyrdom of St. Livinus, whose tongue the executioner has torn out and offers to a hungry dog, one of the great master's most repulsive pictures , painted for the Church of the Jesuits at Ghent; 276. J. Fyt, Fruit and flowers , in a landscape ; above, 205. Ph. de Champaigne, Presentation in the Temple ; 339. Peter Meert, The masters of the Guild of Fish mongers in Brussels . Wall D. 208. Ph. de Champaigne , St. Am brose; 301. J. B. Huysmans, Landscape with cattle ; 406. Ru bens, Christ hurling thunderbolts against the wicked world , while the Virgin and St. Francis are interceding, painted for the Francis cans ofGhent; 447. Fr. Snyders , Game and fruit ; 239. Gasp. de Crayer, SS. Anthony and Paul, the hermits; 405. Rubens, Way to Golgotha, painted in 1637 for the Abbey of Afflighem ; 275. J. Fyt, Dead game, on a cart drawn by dogs ; *410. Rubens, Adoration of the Magi, painted for the Capuchin friars of Tournai ; 160. J. van Arthois, Sylvan path ; 209. Ph. de Champaigne, St. Stephen . Room XI. Wall A. 3a. J. Bosch ( J. van Aaken), Fall of the rebellious angels , a work of extravagant imagination ; 42. Bernard van Orley , The physician George de Zelle ; 3e. Dierick Bouts ( Stuerbout), Martyrdom of St. Sebastian ; 47. School of B. van Orley, Madonna and Child ; 140. German School, Madonna and Child , with saints ; 5, 6. B. de Bruyn, Portraits ; 47a. J. de Patinir, Rest on the Flight into Egypt ; 40. B. van Orley, Pietà , with por traits of the donors on the wings2, painted before 1522 , under 100 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Picture Gallery. Italian influence ; 48. J. de Patinir ,7 Mater Dolorosa ; 34. Mem ling, Portrait ; *55. Roger van der Weyden, Charles the Bold ; 69. Flemish School, Descent from the Cross ; 113. Flemish School, The Woman taken in adultery ; 4a. Peter Brueghel the Younger, The children of Bethlehem. Wall C. 4. Peter Brueghel the Elder ( ' Peasant Brueghel' ) , Massacre of the Innocents, naïvely re presented as occurring in the midst of a snow-clad landscape ; 1 . Amberger , Portrait ; 13. Lucas Cranach the Elder , Dr. Johannes Scheuring (1529) ; 49. Martin Schoen , Mocking of Christ ; * 32, *33 . Memling, Portraits of the Burgomaster W. Moreel and his wife, models ofplain burgess simplicity ; * 31. Memling, Crucifixion, with the Virgin and St. John ; in the foreground kneels Duke Francesco Sforza of Milan with his wife and son ; on the wings Birth and Resurrection of Christ with Saints ; on the back SS. Jerome and George , in gris aille . B. van Orley , 43. Guillaume de Norman ( 1519 ), 41. Trials of Job ; 8, 9. Jan van Coninxloo, Birth and Death of St. Nicholas ; 27. Hans Holbein the Younger (?) , Sir Thomas More (?) ; 18. School of Albrecht Dürer, Portrait ; 50. School of Martin Schoen, Christ at the house of Simon the Pharisee; 12. Cornelis van Coninxloo, Relatives of the Virgin ; 20. Jan van Eyck (more probably by Gerard David , according to Mr. Crowe) , Adoration of the Magi ; the figures somewhat stiff though not unnatural , the colouring vigo rous ; 44. B. van Orley (?) , Wings of an altar-piece of 1528, with scenes from the life of St. Anne ; Birth of the Virgin and Rejection of the offering of Joachim ( on the back : Death of St. Matthew, Thomas's Unbelief, Marriage of St. Anne, and Appearing of Christ). - 3f. Dierick Bouts, Last Supper. ANTECHAMBER, between RR. XI. and XII. Nos . 14, 15. Lucas Cranach the Elder, Adam and Eve ; 2. H. de Bles , St. Anthony. Room XII. Wall A. 98. Flemish School , Descent from the Cross. Wall B. 28. J. Joest, Holy Family ; 3 b . Bosch ( J. van Aaken) , Temptation of St. Anthony, in the painter's well - known fantastic manner (on the back : Martyrdom of St. Anthony , in grisaille ) ; above, 143. German School, Christ and Apostles ; 21 . School of Van Eyck (by Petrus Cristus, according to Mr. Weale ), Madonna and Child ; 152. French School, Edward VI. of England (?) ; 29. L. Lombard, Last Supper ( 1531) ; 76. Flemish School, Portrait of Willem van Croy ; 39. Jan Mostaert, Miracles of St. Benedict ; 24. Jan Gossaert, surnamed Mabuse or van Maubeuge , Mary Mag dalene washing the feet of Christ in the house of Simon the Phari see , with the Raising of Lazarus on the left wing, and the Assump tion of Mary Magdalene on the right ; 126. German School, Cruci fixion ; 144. German School, Portrait of the Emperor Maximilian I. Wall C. C. Crivelli, 16. Madonna and Child, 17. St. Francis of Assisi .

• • 38. Quinten Massys or Metsys , History of St. Anne, a large

winged picture , purchased in 1879 for 200,000 fr. from the church of St. Peter at Louvain, for which it was painted in 1509 . Picture Gallery. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 101 The principal picture represents the family of St. Anne, including the Virgin and Child , to the latter of whom St. Anne holds out a grape ; in front, to the right , is Salome with her two sons, James the Elder and John ; to the left, Mary Cleophas, with her sons, James the Younger, Simon Thaddæus , and Joseph the Just ; behind the balustrade, in the archway, through which a rich landscape is visible, are Joachim , Joseph, Zebedee , and Alphæus, the husbands of the four women . ' The heads are full of life, the garments are richly -coloured and disposed in large masses, and the whole scene is illuminated with a light like that of a bright day in spring'. On the inside of the left wing is an Angel announcing to Joachim the birth of the Virgin , on the outside, Offerings of Joachim and Anne on their marriage (with the signature ' Quinte Metsys 1509') ; on the right wing are the Death of St. Anne , and the Expulsion of Joachim from the Temple on account of his lack of children . Wall D. 145, 146. German School, Portraits of Maximilian II. and Anne of Austria, as children ; 56. Roger van der Weyden ( ? ), Head of a weeping woman (faded).

• 3d, *3c. Dierick Bouts , Justice of Otho III.

The subject is the mediæval tradition that the Emp. Otho beheaded à nobleman who had been unjustly accused by the Empress, but his inno cence having been proved by his widow submitting to the ordeal of fire, Otho punished the empress with death . This picture was originally hung up in the judgment-hall of the Hôtel de Ville at Louvain , according to an ancient custom of exhibiting such scenes as a warning to evil - doers. 57-64. School of Roger van der Weyden, History of Christ, of little value .

• 19. Hubert van Eyck, Adam and Eve, two of the wings of the celebrated Adoration of the Lamb in the church of St. Bavon

at Ghent (see p . 39) , ceded by the authorities to government, as being unsuitable for a church , in return for copies of the six wings at Berlin . ' It would be too much to say that Hubert rises to the conception of an ideal of beauty. The head (of Eve) is over large, the body protrudes, and the legs are spare, but the mechanism of the limbs and the shape of the extremities are rendered with truth and delicacy, and there is much power in the colouring of the flesh . Counterpart to Eve, and once on the left side of the picture, Adam is equally remarkable for correctness of proportion and natural realism . Here again the master's science in optical perspective is conspicuous, and the height of the picture above the eye is fitly considered' . Crowe and Cavalcaselle, Early Flemish Painters, 1872. (Comp. p. xxxix . ) At the back are figures of the Erythræan Sibyl , with a view of Ghent, and the Cumæan Sibyl , with an interior, by the Van Eycks. Beyond the Palais des Beaux - Arts is the Petit Sablon, or Kleine Zaavelplaats (Pl . D, 5 ). To the right rises the church of Notre Dame des Victoires (Pl . 24 ; D, 5), also called Notre Dame du Sablon, founded in 1304 by the guild of Cross-bowmen , but almost entirely rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries . It has lately been purged of disfigurements . The INTERIOR, which has been recently restored, measures 71 yds. in length by 28 yds . in breadth (61 yds . across the transepts) and is decorated with stained glass. A tablet of black marble in the s . transept re cords that the remains of the author Jean- Baptiste Rousseau, who died in exile at Brussels in 1741 , were transferred hither in 1842 from the Church des Petits- Carmes (see p. 103 ) . The adjacent 1st Chapel in the S. AISLE contains the monument of Count Flaminio Garnier , secretary of the Duke 102 Route 12 . BRUSSELS. Pal. Arenberg. of Parma, consisting of six reliefs in alabaster from the life of the Virgin (about 1570 ; restored ). At the W. end of this aisle is a monument erected in 1856 tó Aug. dal Pozzo , Marquis de Voghera (d. 1781), com mander of the Austrian forces in the Netherlands. The burial-chapel ( 17th cent. ) of the Princes of Thurn and Taxis , in the N. TRANSEPT, sump tuously adorned with black and white marble, contains sculptures of no artistic merit ; a St. Ursula over the altar , by Hen . Duquesnoy, merits at tention ; on the right is an angel holding a torch , by Grupello; in the dome are numerous family armorial bearings. The CHOIR contains mural paintings of saints , being an exact reproduction of the originals of the 15th cent. discovered here in 1860 in a state beyond restoration ; also some stained glass of the 15th century. The pulpit, carved in wood, is borne by the symbols of the four Evangelists . At the upper end of the Petit Sablon , a small square surrounded by a handsome railing, rises the Monument of Counts Egmont and Hoorn ( Pl. 39) , by Fraikin , which formerly stood in front of the Maison du Roi (p . 106) . The lower part is a fountain , above which rises a square pedestal in the later Gothic style. The two small bronze figures on the right and left are soldiers of the corps com manded by the two counts . The colossal figures in bronze above represent Egmont and Hoorn on their way to execution. Ten MARBLE STATUES of celebrated contemporaries of the counts were erected in 1890 in a half- circle round the monument. These re present ( from left to right): Marnix of Ste . Aldegonde (p . 245) by P. Devigne, Abr. Ortelius by J. Lambeaux , Bern . van Orley by Dillens , J. de Locquenghien by G. van den Kerckhove, Ger. Mer cator by L. P. van Biesbroeck , Dodonæus ( p. 132) by A. de Tom bay, Corn . Floris de Vriendt by J. Pecher, H. van Brederode by J. A. van Rasbourgh, L. van Bodeghem by J. Cuypers, and William of Orange by C. van der Stappen. The 48 small bronze figures on the pillars of the artistic railing represent the Artistic and Indust rial Guilds of the 16th century ; they were cast in 1882-83 by the Compagnie des Bronzes at Brussels from designs by X. Mellery and models by J. Cuypers, P. Comein, J. Courroit, A. Desenfans, A. , J., F., and G. van den Kerckhove, Ch . Geefs, J. A. Hambresin, J. Laumans, B. Martens, E. Lefever, A. J. van Rasbourgh , J. Lambeaux, and others . Behind the monument is the Palace of the Duc d'Arenberg (Pl. 44 ; D, 5) , once the re sidence of Count Egmont, erected in 1548, restored in 1753, with a modern right wing . It contains a small but choice picture-gallery ( admission , see p . 77). The Pictures are all in excellent preservation, and furnished with the names of the artists . Long Room , to the left of the entrance : Rem brandt, or more probably Sal. Koninck, Tobias restoring his father's sight ; Van Dyck, Portrait of a Spanish countess; Craesbeeck, Hisown studio ; A. van Oštade, A. Brouwer, Tavern- scenes; Jac. van 'Ruysdael, Waterfall; Hobbema, Landscape ; P. Potter, Resting in a barn ; Rubens, Two portraits and three sketches of angels' heads ; Berck - Heyde, Canal ; P. de Hooch, In terior ; G. Dou, The painter's parents ; G. Metsú , The billet- doux , Jan van der Meer van Delft, Girl ; Jan Steen, Wedding at Cana ; Rubens, Small portrait ; A. van der Neer , Moonlight on the sea ( 1644 ); G. Dou, Old woman counting money ; Ĝ. Terburg, Musical entertainment; Jordaens, Zoo de ouden zongen, zoo piepen de jongen' ( when the old quarrel, the > Palais de Justice . BRUSSELS. 12. Route . 103 -- young squeak ) ; Teniers, Playing at bowls ; G. Dou, Hermit; N. Maes, The scholar ; G. Mieris, Fishwoman . Above the door : Berck - Heyde, Inner court of the Amsterdam Exchange. - To the right of the door : J. Ruysdael , Landscapes ; A. Cuyp , Horses ; D. Teniers , Farmyard , Pea sant smoking ; Van der Helst, Dutch wedded couple, Portrait of a 'man ; A. van Dyck , Portrait of a Duc d'Arenberg ; Teniers , Man selling shells ; Fr. Hals, The drinker ; Everdingen, Waterfall; Terburg, Portrait; Fr. Hals , Two boys singing ; Rubens, Two portraits and a sketch. - On the window wall : Portrait of Marie Antoinette , painted in the Temple by Koharsky, shortly before the unfortunate queen was removed to the Conciergerie. The LIBRARY contains antique vases, statuettes , and busts in marble . The well- kept GARDENS deserve a visit ( fee 1 fr. ). A few houses above the palace, to the left , is the prison of Les Petits Carmes ( Pl. D, E, 5 ), the front of which (set apart for female convicts) was built in 1847 by Dumont in the English Gothic style . A Carmelite monastery formerly occupied this site . Somewhat higher up stood the house of Count Kuylenburg, memo rable under Philip II . as the place of assembly of the Netherlands nobles who began the struggle against the supremacy of Spain. Here, on 6th April, 1566 , they signed a petition (' Request') to the vice -regent Margaret of Parma ( natural daughter of Charles V. and sister of Philip II . ) , pray ing for the abolition of the inquisitorial courts , after which between three and four hundred of the confederates proceeded on horseback to the palace of the Duchess, in the Place Royale. At the moment when the petition was presented, Count Barlaimont, one of the courtiers, whispered to the princess, whose apprehensions had been awakened by the sudden appearance of the cortége, Madame, ce n'est qu'une troupe de gueux' ( i.e. , beggars ), in allusion to their pos want of money. The epithet was overheard , and ra pidly communicated to the whole party, who afterwards chose it for the name of their faction . On the same evening several of their number, among whom was Count Brederode, disguised as a beggar with a wooden goblet ( jatte ) in his hand , appeared on the balcony of the residence of Count Kuylenburg and drank success to the 'Gueux'; while each of the other confederates, in token ofhis approval, struck a nail into the goblet. The spark thus kindled soon burst into a flame, and a few years later caused the N. provinces of the Netherlands to be severed from the do minions of Spain. When the Duke of Alva entered Brussels in 1567, he fixed his residence in Count Kuylenburg's house and here caused the arrest of Counts Egmont and Hoorn. Afterwards he ordered it to be razed to the ground. Farther on , to the left , stands the Conservatoire de Mu sique ( Pl.11 ; D, 5), built in 1876 by Cluysenaar. The Conservatoire possesses an interesting collection of old musical instruments from the 16th cent. onwards , which was augmented in 1879 by the acquisition of the Tolbecque collection from Paris , and is now ex hibited at No. 11 Rue aux Laines, at the back of the building ( adm . on Thurs. , 2-4). On the same side rises the Synagogue (P1 . 63), a building in a simple and severe style by De Keyser . The new * Palais de Justice ( Pl . C, D, 5) , which terminates the Rue de la Régence on the S. , an edifice designed on a most am bitious scale by Poelaert, and begun in 1866 underthe superinten dence of Wellens, was formally inaugurated in 1883, at the jubilee of Belgium's existence as a separate kingdom. The cost of the building amounted to 50 million francs (2,000,0001.). It is the largest architectural work of the present century, and is certainly one of the most remarkable, if not one of the most beautiful 7 104 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Palais de Justice. of modern buildings. The inequalities of the site added greatly to the magnitude of the task. The area of the building is 270,000 sq. ft., considerably exceeding that of St. Peter's at Rome ( see p. 142). The huge and massive pile stands upon an almost square basis , 590 ft . long by 560 ft . wide , and forcibly sug gests the mighty structures of ancient Egypt or Assyria. Indeed the architect avowed that his guiding principle was an adaptation of Assyrian forms to suit the requirements of the present day. The general architectural scheme may be described as pyramidal , each successive section diminishing in bulk. Above the main body of the building rises another rectangular structure surrounded with columns ; this supports a drum or rotunda, also encircled with col umns, while the crown of the whole is formed by a comparatively small dome, the gilded cross on the top of which is 400 ft. above the pavement. The rotunda is embellished with colossal figures of Justice, Law, Strength , and Clemency. The principal façade, with projecting wings and a large portal , is turned towards the Rue de la Régence . In details the Græco-Roman style has been for the most part adhered to, with an admixture of rococo treatment, and curved lines have been generally avoided ; an example of this is the rectilineal termination of the porch , which is enclosed by huge pilasters . The flights of steps ascending to the vestibule are adorn ed with colossal statues of Demosthenes and Lycurgus by A. Cattier ( 1882 ; to the right) and of Cicero and Domitius Ulpian by A. F. Bouré (1883 ; to the left ). The interior includes 27 large court rooms, 245 other apartments , and 8 open courts. The large Salle des Pas Perdus, or waiting-room , with its galleries and flights of steps , is situated in the centre , under the dome, which has an interior height of 320 ft. Guides in uniform are in waiting to con duct visitors through the interior (daily, except Sun. , 9-4.30 ). A little to the N.W. of the Petit Sablon ( p . 101) is the PLACE DU GRAND SABLON ( Groote Zaavelplaats ; Pl. D, 4), in the centre of which is an insignificant fountain -monument erected by the Marquis of Aylesbury in 1751 , in recognition of the hospitality accorded to him at Brussels . The old Palais de Justice (Pl . 46), formerly a Jesuit monastery, stands on the N. side of the Grand Sablon . The wing facing the Rue de la Paille contains the Archives of the kingdom. The princi pal front, on the N.W. , faces a small Place, with the marble sta tue of Alex. Gendebien (d . 1869) , a member of the provisional government of 1830, by Ch. Van der Stappen, erected in 1874. In the Rue Haute, or Hoogstraat, in the immediate vicinity, is situated the Gothic Notre Dame de la Chapelle (Pl . 23 ; C , 4), begun in 1216 on the site of an earlier chapel ; the choir and transept date from the middle of the 13th cent . , and the nave and W, towers were completed in 1483 . Hôtel de Ville . BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 105 The INTERIOR (concierge, Rue des Ursulines 24 ) is worthy of a visit on account of the numerous frescoes (Chapelle de la Sainte Croix, to the right of the choir ) and oil-paintings (14 Stations of the Cross) by Van Eycken (d. 1853). The first three pillars of the chapels in the s . Aisle bear the remains of frescoes of the 15th cent . (saints). The stained glass in the 1st and 2nd chapels, with scenes from the life of the Virgin , is by J. van der Poorten (1867). The 3rd chapel contains the tomb of the painter Jan Brueghel (“ Velvet Brueghel'), with a picture by him (Christ giving the keys to Peter ). In the 4th Chapel, De Crayer, Christ appearing to Mary Magdalene. In the N. chapel of the choir : Landscapes by J. d'Arthois ( d . 1665 ) and Achtschelling (d . 1731). Near the altar : De Crayer , S. Carlo Borromeo administering the Holy Communion to the plague stricken ; Van Thulden , Intercession for souls in Purgatory. Monument of the Spinola family by Plumiers (d . 1721) . On a pillar a monument, with bust, to Duke Ch. Alex. de Croy (d. 1624) . Atablet of black marble at the back of the pillar, put up by Counts Merode and Beaufort in 1834 , bears a long Latin inscription to the memory of Frans Anneessens, a citizen of Brussels, and a magistrate of the Quarter of St. Nicholas, who was executed in the Grand Marché in 1719 for presuming to defend the pri vileges of the city and guilds against the encroachments of the Austrian governor (the Marquis de Prié) .- The Choir has recently been decorated with fine polychrome paintings by Charle- Albert . The somewhat incon gruous high- altar was executed from designs by Rubens. — The carving on the pulpit, by Plumiers, represents Elijah in the wilderness, and is simpler and in better taste than that of the pulpit in the cathedral. The Rue Haute ends at the Porte de Hal (p . 113) . In the centre of the lower part of the tow lies the **Grande Place, or market-place (Pl. D, 3) , 120 yds. long and 74 yds. wide, in which rise the Hôtel de Ville and several old guild - houses . It is one of the finest mediæval squares in existence, presenting a marked contrast to the otherwise modern character of the city, and occupies an important place in the annals of Belgium . In the spring of 1568 twenty - five nobles of the Netherlands were be headed here by order of the Duke of Alva , the most distinguished victims being Lamoral, Count Egmont, and Philip de Montmorency, Count Hoorn (p . 102). The * Hôtel de Ville (Pl . D, 3) is by far the most interesting edifice in Brussels , and one of the noblest and most beautiful build ings of the kind in Belgium . It is of irregular quadrangular form , 66 yds . in length and 55 yds . in depth , and encloses a court. The principal façade towards the market-place is in the Gothic style, the E. half having been begun in 1402, the W. in 1443. The graceful tower, 370 ft. in height, which , however, for some unex plained reason does not rise from the centre of the building , was completed in 1454. The first architect is said to have been Jacob van Thienen (1405) , and the next Jan van Ruysbroeck (1448 ), a statue of whom adorns the first niche in the tower. The façade has lately been restored . It is doubtful whether the niches on the façade were all intended to receive statuettes, or were in some cases meant to be purely decorative ; at all events the central story of the S. wing and the tower now seem overladen by the multitude of mod ern statues of Dukes of Brabant with which they have been adorn 106 Route 12 . BRUSSELS Halle au Pain . . ed. The open spire , which was damaged by lightning in 1863, ter minates in a gilded metal figure of the Archangel Michael, which serves as a vane , 16 ft . in height, but apparently of much smaller dimensions when seen from below. It was executed by Martin van Rode in 1454. The back of the Hôtel de Ville dates from the begin ning of the 18th century . In the court are two fountains of the 18th cent ., each adorned with a river- god, that on the right by Plumiers. The concierge ( fee 1/2 fr. ) , who lives in the passage at the back, shows the INTERIOR of the Hôtel de Ville (see p. 76) . The rooms and corridors contain several pictures ( Stallaert, Death of Eberhard T'serclaes, 1388 , a magistrate of Brussels ; Coomans, Defeat of the Huns at Châlons, 451), and portraits of former sovereigns, among whom are Maria Theresa, Francis II . , Joseph II., Charles VI., Charles II. of Spain , etc .; in the following passage, the Emperor Charles V., Philip III. of Spain , Philip IV ., Archduke Albert and his consort Isabella, Charles II. of Spain, and Phi lip II . in the robe of the Golden Fleece. In the spacious SALLE DU CON SEIL COMMUNAL, on the first floor, Counts Egmont and Hoorn were con demned to death in 1568. The present decoration of the hall, with its rich gilding , recalling the palace of the Doges at Venice , dates from the end of the 17th century. The ceiling- painting, representing the gods in Olympus, is by Victor Janssens. The same artist designed the tapestry on the walls, of which the subjects are the Abdication of Charles V., the Coro nation of Emp. Charles VI. at Aix -la - Chapelle , and the joyeuse entrée of Philippe le Bon of Burgundy, i.e. , the conclusion of the contract of government between the sovereign, the clergy, the nobility , and the people. On an adjacent table, in a chased and gilded copper salver, are the keys of the city, which were presented to the regent on that oc casion . The adjoining rooms are hung with tapestry from designs by Lebrun and Van der Borght, representing the history ofClovis and Clo tilde. The large BANQUET HALL, 65 yds . long and 27 yds. wide, re cently decorated with beautiful Gothic carved oak , from designs by Ja maer, also deserves notice. The tapestry, representing the guilds in char acteristic figures, was executed at Malines from designs by W. Geets. The SALLE D'ATTENTE contains views of old Brussels, before the con struction of the present new and spacious streets ( pp. 109, 111), by J. B. van Moer, 1873. - The SALLE DES MARIAGES is lined with oaken panelling and adorned with allegorical frescoes . The STAIRCASE is adorned with two pictures by Em . Wauters : John III . , Duke of Brabant, resigning to the guilds of Brussels the right of electing the burgomaster (1421 ), and Mary of Burgundy swearing to respect the privileges of the city of Brussels (1477 ). The Tower ( key kept by the concierge ; 1 fr. for 1 pers., 50 c . each for a party) commands an admirable survey of the city and environs. To the s . the Lion Monument on the field of Waterloo is distinctly visible in clear weather. The best hour for the ascent is about 4 p.m. Opposite the Hôtel de Ville is the * Halle au Pain (Pl. 35 ; D, 3) , better known as the Maison du Roi, formerly the seat of the govern ment authorities . The building was erected in 1514-25, in the transition style from the Gothic to the Renaissance , restored about 1767 in egregiously bad taste, and rebuilt in 1877-84 according to the original plan . It is now fitted up for the municipal authorities, and joined with the Hôtel de Ville by a subterranean passage. Counts Egmont and Hoorn passed the night previous to their exe cution here, and are said to have been conveyed directly from the balcony to the fatal block by means of a scaffolding, in order to prevent the possibility of a rescue by the populace. The *MUSÉE COMMUNAL (Gemeentelyk Muzeum ), established in Guild Houses . BRUSSELS. 12. Route . 107 1887 on the second floor of the Halle au Pain ( adm . daily, 10-4 ), contains models of ancient and modern buildings of Brussels, sculp tures, banners, Brussels china and faience, artistic objects in metal , a few rare prints, plans of buildings, water - colour views of Brussels, coins and medals, and some paintings of the Flemish , German, and Italian schools , including examples of Mierevelt, Snyders, A. More, Holbein , Cuyck, Goltzius, Bol, and Marco d'Oggionno. The * Guild Houses in the Grande Place are well worthy of notice . They were re-erected at the beginning of last century, after having been seriously damaged during the bombardment by Louis XIV, in 1695. The old hall of the Guild of Butchers on the S. side is indicated by a swan . The Hôtel des Brasseurs, recently restored with considerable taste, bears on its gable an equestrian statue of Duke Charles of Lorraine ( p . 78 ), designed in 1854 by Jaquet. On the W. side is the Maison de la Louve, or Hall of the Archers, which derives its name from a group representing Romulus and Remus with the she-wolf. To the left of the Louve is the Hall of the Skippers, the gable of which resembles the stern of a large vessel , with four protruding cannon ; to the right of the Louve, the Hall of the Carpenters (1697), richly adorned with gild ing. On the N. side, to the right of the Halle au Pain , is the Taupe, or Hall of the Tailors, built in 1697 and lately restored . The extensive building occupying almost the entire S.E. side of the square was formerly the public Weighing House. At the back of the Hôtel de Ville, about 200 yds. to the S.W. , at the corner of the Rue du Chêne and the Rue de l'Etuve, stands a diminutive figure, one of the curiosities of Brussels, known as the Mannikin Fountain (Pl . 36 ; C, 4) , cast in bronze after Duquesnoy's model in 1619. He is a great favourite with the lower classes, and is invariably attired in gala costume on all great occasions . When Louis XV. took the city in 1747, the mannikin wore the white cockade, in 1789 he was decked in the colours of the Brabant Revolution , under the French régime he adopted the tri colour, next the Orange colours, and in 1830 the blouse of the Revolu tionists . Louis XV. , indeed , invested him with the cross of St. Louis. The figure is not without considerable artistic excellence . In the Rue du Marché aux Herbes, near the N.E. corner of the Grande Place, is the entrance to the Galerie St. Hubert, or Passage (Pl . D, 3) , constructed from a plan by Cluysenaar in 1847 , a spacious and attractive arcade with tempting shops (234 yds. in length, 26 yds . in width , and 59 ft . in height). It connects the Marché - aux - Herbes with the Rue des Bouchers ( Galerie de la Reine ), and farther on with the Rue de l'Ecuyer ( Galerie du Roi, with the Galerie des Princes diverging on one side). The sculp tural decorations are by Jaquet. The arcade is crowded at all hours of the day. (Cafés, shops, and theatre , pp. 73 , 74. ) About 150 yds . higher, in the Rue de la Madeleine, and also in the Rue Duquesnoy and Rue St. Jean , are entrances to the Marché Couvert ( Pl. D, 4), or Marché de la Madeleine, an extensive mar ket-place for fruit, vegetables , and poultry, erected by Cluysenaar in 1848. Owing to the different levels of the above -named streets 108 Route 12. BRUSSELS University. . - 1 the market has two stories . Like the Halles Centrales (p. 110 ), it is well worth visiting in the early part of the morning. The RUB DB LA MADELEINB (PI . D, 4) contains numerous houses with façades of the 17th cent. in the Renaissance style . It is contin ued by the busy MONTAGNE DE LA Cour , which leads to the Place Royale ( p . 87). — A side-street between the Rue de la Made leine and the Montagne de la Cour leads to the left to the Uni versity ( Pl . 74 ; D, 4), an ' université libre' , established in the old palace of Cardinal Granvella , Rue de l'Impératrice, near the Palais de l'Industrie . It was founded by the liberal party in 1834, as a rival of the Roman Catholic University of Louvain (p . 200), and comprises the faculties of philosophy , the exact sciences , juris prudence , and medicine, along with a separate pharmaceutical in stitution . The Ecole Polytechnique, founded in 1873, embraces six departments : mining, metallurgy, practical chemistry, civil and mechanical engineering, and architecture. The number of students is upwards of 1000. The court is adorned with a Statue of Verhae gen (d . 1862) , one of the founders, who, as the inscription records, presented a donation of 100,000 fr. to the funds, by Geefs. A few paces from the University , in the Rue des Sols , is the so called Chapelle Salazar, or de l’Expiation (Pl. 9 ; D, 4), erected in 1436 as an ' expiation' for a theft of the host from Ste. Gudule in 1370 (see p. 86), and occupying the site of the synagogue where the sa cred wafers were profaned. It has recently been restored ; the in terior is gaudily decorated ( scenes from the Passion by G. Payen ). In the adjoining Rue Terarken ( Pl. D, E, 4 ), to the S.E. , the Gothic Ravestein Mansion should be noticed as one of the few remaining antique private buildings in Brussels ( p . 79) . It possesses an interesting staircase , pediment, and projecting window . The busy streets to the N. of the market and the Passage St. Hubert lead to the PLACE DE LA MONNAIB (P1 , D , 3) , in which rises the royal Théâtre de la Monnaie , with a colonnade of eight Ionic columns, erected by the Parisian architect Damesne in 1817. The bas-relief in the tympanum , executed by Simonis in 1854 , represents the Harmony of Human Passions (in the centre, Harmony, surrounded by allegorical figures of heroic, idyllic, lyric, and satiric poetry ; on the left Love, Discord , Repentance, and Murder ; on the right Lust, Covetousness , Falsehood, Hope, Grief, and Consolation) . The interior, which was remodelled after a fire in 1855 , is decorated in the Louis XIV. style and can contain 2000 spectators. Opposite the theatre the new General Post Office is now in course of erection ; its frontage will extend from the Rue du Fossé - aux - Loups to the Rue de l'Evêque. Cafés, see p . 73 . From the Place de la Monnaie the handsome and busy Rue Neuve (Pl . D, 2), one of the chief business - streets of Brussels, leads towards the N. in a straight direction to the Station du Nord . In this street , to the right , is the new Galerie du Commerce New Exchange. BRUSSELS. 12. Route . 109 (Pl. D, 2), a glass arcade, similar to the Galerie St. Hubert ( p. 107 ), but smaller. To the left is the Galerie du Nord, leading to the Boul. du Nord (see below ) and containing the Musée du Nord, a hall for concerts and dramatic representations, Turning to the left at the end of the Galerie du Commerce , or following the next side-street to the right in the Rue Neuve, we reach the Place des Martyrs , built by Maria Theresa , in the centre of which rises the Martyrs' Monument (P1.38 ; D , 2 ), erected in 1838 to the memory of the Belgians who fell in Sept., 1830, while fighting against the Dutch (see p. 80) . It represents liberated Belgium engrav ing on a tablet the eventful days of September (23rd to 26th) ; at her feet a recumbent lion , and broken chains and fetters. At the sides are four reliefs in marble : in front the grateful nation ; on the right the oath taken in front of the Hôtel de Ville at the beginning of the contest ; on the left the conflict in the Park (p . 80) ; at the back the consecration of the tombs of the fallen . The monument was de signed and executed by W. Geefs. The marble slabs immured in the sunken gallery record the names of the ‘ martyrs ' , 445 in number. > An entirely modern feature in the lower part of the city is formed by the * Inner Boulevards ( Pl . B, C , D, 2-5 ; tramways , see p. 75) , which lie to the W. of the Rue Neuve and the Place de la Monnaie , and extend from the Boulevard du Midi (near the Station du Midi) to the Boulevard d'Anvers (near the Station du Nord ), partly built over the Senne, and intersecting the whole town. The construction of the street, and the covering in of the bed of the Senne for a distance of 11/3 M. , were carried out by an English company in 1867-71 . The names of the boulevards are Boulevard du Nord, Boulevard de la Senne, Boulevard Anspach (the most im portant; named after the burgomaster Anspach , d . 1879) , and Boulevard du Hainaut. The pleasing variety of the handsome build ings with which they are flanked is in great measure owing to an offer by the municipal authorities of premiums, from 20,000 fr. downwards, for the twenty finest façades . The BOULEVARD DU NORD (Pl . D, 2) and the Boulevard de la Senne (Pl . D, 2) meet at the beginning of the Boulevard Anspach, by the Church of the Augustines, erected in the 17th cent . , and now used temporarily as the Bureau Central des Postes . The tall and narrow house, to the N.E. of the church, No. 1 , Boulevard du Nord , built by Beyaert in 1874, received the first prize in the above-named competition. In the centre of the city , between the BOULEVARD ANSPACH (Pl . C, 3) and the Rue des Fripiers , rises the * New Exchange Bourse de Commerce), an imposing edifice in the Louis XIV. style , designed by Suys. Its vast proportions and almost excessive richness of ornamentation combine to make the building worthy of being the commercial centre of an important metropolis ; but it > 110 Route 12 . BRUSSELS. Halles Centrales. umns . > has been sadly disfigured by the application of a coat of paint, necessitated by the friable nature of the stone. The principal façade is embellished with a Corinthian colonnade , to which a flight of twenty steps ascends . On each side is an allegorical group by J. Jaquet. The reliefs in the tympanum, also by Jaquet, represent Belgium with Commerce and Industry. The two stories of the building are connected by means of Corinthian pilasters and col Around the building , above the cornice , runs an attic story , embellished with dwarfed Ionic columns , and forming a curve on each side between two pairs of clustered columns . The effect is materially enhanced by means of numerous sculptures. The principal hall , unlike that of most buildings of the kind, is cruciform (47 yds . by 40 yds. ), and covered with a low dome (about 150 ft. high) in the centre , borne bytwenty- eight columns. At the four corners of the building are four smaller saloons. Two marble staircases ascend to the gallery , which affords a survey of the principal hall , and to the other apartments on the upper floor . The cost of the whole structure amounted to 4 million francs. In the Boul . Anspach, nearly opposite the Exchange, is the Hôtel des Ventes , built in 1881 . - A little to the W. , in the Place St. Géry ( Pl . C , 3) , is a Market , in the Flemish style , opened in 1882. In the BOULEVARD DU HAINAUT, to the left , is a Panorama . To the right, in the Place Anneessens ( Pl. C, 4) is the monument of the civic hero Frans Anneessens (p. 105), by Vincotte , erected in 1889. Behind is a School in the Flemish style, by Janlet. A little farther along the boulevard , on the left, rise the Ecole Modèle (No. 80) , by Hendricks, and the large Palais du Midi (Pl . B , C, 4 , 5) , the S. part of which is occupied by the Ecole Industrielle, and the N. part by a market - hall. On the W. side of the Boulevard Anspach are the Halles Cen trales ( Pl. C, 3 ), a covered provision -market resembling its name sake at Paris , but on a much smaller scale. A morning walk here will be found interesting. In approaching from the Boulevard Anspach through the Rue Grétry, we have the meat, poultry, and vegetable market on the left , and the fish- market on the right. At the end of the latter the baskets of fish arriving fresh from the sea are sold by auction to retail- dealers (comp. p . 6). The auction eer uses a curious mixture of French and Flemish, the tens being named in French and all intermediate numbers in Flemish . French alone is used at the auctions in the poultry and vegetable market. In the new Grain - Market (Pl . C, 2) is a marble statue of the naturalist J. B. van Helmont ( 1577-1644 ), by G. van der Linden . Beyond the Halles rises the Church of St. Catharine (Pl . 15 ; C , 2 ), on the site of the old Bassin de Ste . Catherine , designed by Poelaert (p. 103) , in the French transition style from Gothic to Re naissance. It contains paintings by De Crayer and Vænius , an Assumption ascribed to Rubens, and other works from the old church that stood on the same spot. Botanic Garden. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 111 The Eglise du Béguinage (Pl . 13 ; C, 2), in the vicinity, con tains a colossal statue of John the Baptist by Puyenbroek , an En tombment by Otho Vaenius, and paintings by Van Loon . The MUSÉE COMMERCIAL , Rue des Augustins 17 (Pl . D, 2) , instituted in 1880 for the encouragement of Belgian commerce, con tains collections of foreign manufactures. The por The old * Boulevards, or ramparts , were levelled about the beginning of the century and converted into pleasant avenues, which have a total length of 41/2 miles . The boulevards of the upper part of the town (to the N. and E.) , together with the Avenue Louise connecting them with the Bois de la Cambre (p . 115), are thronged with carriages , riders , and walkers on fine summer- even ings , and present a very gay and animated scene . tion between the Place Quetelet (Pl . F, 2) and the Place du Trône ( Pl . E, 5 ), adjoining the palace - garden , is also much fre quented from 2.30 to 4 p.m. (chairs 10 c . ). The traveller who has a few hours at command is recommended to walk round the inner town by these Boulevards , a pleasant circuit occupying 11/2-2 hrs . , which, however, he may shorten by availing himself of the tram way on the S. and W, sides . Immediately to the E. of the Station du Nord (built by Coppens ), on the right, rises the HOSPITAL OF ST. JOHN (Hôpital St.Jean ; Pl . E, 2), an imposing structure erected by Partoes in 1838-43 and admirably fitted up (admission 9-5 o'clock, 1 fr .; attendant 1 /2-1 fr.; entrance, Rue Pachéco ). On the opposite slopes are the grounds of the Botanic Garden ( Pl. E, 2 ; adm. , see p . 76 ), with hot- houses erected in 1826. It is entered from the Rue ROYALB (p . 80), a little to the N. of the point where that street intersects the Boulevard du Jardin Botanique. From this part of the Rue Royale , which is borne by arches, we ob tain a fine view of the N. boulevards , extending to the hills which enclose the valley of the Senne . To the E. of the Botanic Gar den is the new Jesuit Church (P1 . 18 ; F, 2 ), built by Parot in the early -Gothic style. At the N. end of the Rue Royale rises the church of STB . MARIB DB SCHAERBEEK (Pl. 20 ; F, 1 ), an octagonal edifice in the Byzan tine style, built by Hansotte from plans by Van Overstraeten . In the Place Colignon , to the N. , is the new Maison Communale of Schaerbeek . On the right side of the Boulevard , farther on , lies the cir cular PLACE DES BARRICADES (Pl . F, 2), until 1830 called the Place d'Orange, adorned with a statue of the anatomist Vesalius, by Ed. Geefs. Vesalius, the court- physician of Charles V. and the founder of modern anatomy, was born at Brussels in 1514 . His parents were natives of Wesel, of whichthe name Vesalius is a Latinised form . He was con demned to the stake as a sorcerer by the Inquisition, but this penalty ? 112 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Musée Wiertz . was commuted into a pilgrimage to Jerusalem . On his way back he was wrecked on the coast of Zante, where he died in 1564 . The streets to the S.W. of this point, extending to the Palais de la Nation and the ministerial offices (p . 81) , were almost entirely constructed within the last few years . To the E. of the Boulevards lies the modern and handsome, but somewhat monotonous QUARTIER LÉOPOLD, in the centre of which rises the church of St. Joseph ( Pl . 19 ; F, 4), a Renaissance building of 1849 , by the elder Suys . The facade and towers are constructed of blue limestone. The altarpiece is a Flight into Egypt by Wiertz . On the E. side of the Quartier Léopold lies the Parc Léopold (Pl . G, 5) , formerly laid out as a zoological garden . On the W. side ( Rue Wiertz) is the large Etablissement d'Horticulture Internationale (Director, M. Linden ), opened in 1889. On the S. side , between the park and the Rue Vautier, rises the new Musée d'Histoire Naturelle, opened in 1891 . On the GROUND FLOOR ( entr. Rue Vautier) is the collection of Mam malia and Birds, containing stuffed specimens and skeletons. Here for the present are also skeletons, 25 ft . high , of the * Iguanodon ( 1. Bernis sartensis and I. Mantelli ), the largest representative of the Saurian family of reptiles. These were found, along with eighteen similar skeletons, in the coal-measures of Bernissart (p . 68) in Hainault , and are the first perfect skeletons discovered of this gigantic lizard . In the " Salle des Cavernes ', also on the ground- floor, are the rich collections of bone-relics and objects of the stone age discovered in the caves on the Lesse ( p . 192). On the First Floor are the collections of Fishes and Reptiles and of Fossil Vertebrata (chalk -formation , tertiary and quaternary epochs). The latter, which is especially rich and of great scientific importance, includes (besides the Iguanodon, see above) tolerably perfect skeletons of the Mo sasaurus, Hainosaurus, Phosphorosaurus, Prognathodon , Plioplatecarpus, Orthomerus , various fossil crocodiles, tortoises, and fishes, primæval ele phant ( Elephas antiquus), Mammoth ( found in 1860 at Lierre) , Irish elk , Rhinoceros Tichorhinus, Musk- ox, etc. – On the SECOND FLOOR are the collections of Articulata , Mollusca, and Radiata , Fossil Plants, and Minerals. In the vicinity rises the * Musée Wiertz (Pl . G, 5 ; entrance by an iron gate at the N.E. corner of the garden in the Rue Vautier ), formerly the country -residence and studio of the painter of that name (1806–65), after whose death it was purchased by government (admission, see p. 77) . It contains almost all the productions of this highly - gifted but eccentric master, who could not be induced to dispose of his works . Interesting catalogue , containing also a sketch of the artist's life, 1/2 fr. A monument to Wiertz has been erected in the Place de la Couronne in the suburb of Ixelles (p . 115 ), with a medallion and a group in bronze by Jaquet . We first enter two rooms containing designs and sketches in colours ; in one of them a mask of the painter's face taken after death. To the right is the principal saloon, which contains seven large pictures : 1. Contest for the body of Patroclus, 1815 ; to the right, 3. Homeric battle ; 4. One of the great of the earth (Polyphemus devouring the companions of Ulysses), painted in 1860 ; 14. The beacon of Golgotha ,16. The triumph of Christ, 1848 ; 8. Contest of good with evil, 1842; 52. The last cannon , 1855. The following are smaller works : 23. Vision of a beheaded man ; over the door, 25. Lion of Waterloo ; 36. The young witch ; 2. Orphans, with the inscription 'Appel à la bienfaisance' ; 5. Forge of 'Vulcan (1855 ?) ; in the corners of the left end- wall, 28. Napoleon in the infernal regions ; 21 . Porte de Hal. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 113 Hunger, Madness, and Crime; opposite, 26. Courage of a Belgian lady ; opposité, on the right end-wall,15. Entombment, with the Angel of Evil and the Fall on the wings ; 22. The suicide; 95. Concierge; 37. The rose bud; 76. Portrait of the painter ; 73. Portrait of his mother ; 11. Education of the Virgin . In the corners of the room are wooden screens, through peep -holes in which paintings hung behind them are seen . The effect is curiously realistic . The three marble groups in the middle of the room, representing the development of the human race , are also by Wiertz. Some of the pictures are painted in a kind of distemper invented by Wiertz himself. In the open space in front of the Station du Quartier Léopold ( Pl . F, 5) , a Statue of John Cockerill ( d . 1840 ; P1.39) , the founder of the iron -works of Seraing (p . 213) , by A. Cattier, was erected in 1872. The lofty limestone pedestal is surrounded by figures of four miners. The inscription is : ' travail, intelligence' . In the BOULEVARDS , farther to the S. , is the monumental Fon taine De Brouckère (Pl . E, 5 ), with a bust of M.De Brouckère , an able burgomaster of Brussels (a. 1866), by Fiers, and a group of children by D'Union, erected on the site of the former Porte de Namur. In the BOULEVARD DE WATERLOO, to the left , rises the Eglise des Carmes (Pl . D, 6 ; interior adorned with painting ), beyond which the Avenue du Bois de la Cambre (p . 115) diverges to the left. Then, to the right, is the Hospice Pacheco (Pl. D, 6), founded in 1713 by Isabella Desmares, widow of Don Aug. Pachéco , for neces sitous widows and spinsters above 50 years old . The present building dates from 1835. On the opposite side of the boulevard is the Ave nue d'Uccle (Pl . C, 6) , which leads to the new Mint, completed in 1879 (to the right, beyond the Rue de la Victoire). The Porte de Hal (Pl . C, 6), at the S. extremity of the inner town, is the sole remnant of the old fortifications. It was erected in 1381, and two centuries later became the Bastille of Alva during the Belgian ' reign of terror ' . It is a huge square structure with three vaulted chambers , one above the other , and a projecting tower. The interior, skilfully adapted for this purpose by Beyaert, contains a rich MUSEUM OF WEAPONS. Admission , see p. 76. The collection of antiquities , which was also formerly here, has been removed to the Palais du Cinquantenaire ( p. 82) . The section of the boulevards skirting the W. side of the old town of Brussels is generally known as the ' Lower Boulevards' . Of these we first reach the BOULEVARD DU MIDI (Pl . B , 6 , 5, 4) . On the right stands the Blind Asylum of the Philanthropic Society of Brussels ( Pl. 34 ; C, 6), a Gothic brick building with a clock -tower, designed by Cluysenaar (1858 ). On the left is the Cité Fontainas (Pl . B , 6) , an asylum for unemployed teachers and governesses . Farther on is the Station du Midi (Pl . A, 5, 6) , built by Payen . Opposite diverge the broad Avenue du Midi, the continuation of which is the Rue du Midi, ending behind the Bourse (p . 106), and the Boulevard du Hainaut (p . 110 ). [ At the N. end of the Avenue du Midi is the PLACE ROUPPE (Pl . Ć, 4 ), with a fountain -monument to N. J. Rouppe, burgomaster of Brussels in 1830-38 , by Fraikin .] BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 8 114 Route 12. BRUSSELS. Laeken, 7 In the Lower Boulevards, farther to the N. , stands the Ecole Vét érinaire ( Pl. 12 ; B, 5 ), and beyond it are the extensive Abattoirs ( slaughter -houses; Pl. 1 ; B, 3 ). Near the latter begins the Canal, 45 M. long, which connects Brussels with the Sambre near Charleroi . Finally,thetasteful Caserne du Petit - Château and the Entrepôt Royal ( Pl . 25 ; C, 1 ), or custom -house, with its spacious warehouses . At the W. end of the Boulevard d'Anvers (Pl . C, D, 1 ) , and immediately adjoining the custom - house, begins the ALLÉE VERTE, a double avenue of limes extending along the bank of the Willebroeck Canal, which connects Brussels with Malines and Antwerp. The trees were planted in 1707, and were considerately spared by Mar shal Saxe in 1746 during the siege of Brussels in the War of the Austrian Succession . This avenue was formerly the most fashion able promenade at Brussels, but is now completely deserted . At the end of the Allée Verte a bridge crosses the canal, the road beyond which leads in a straight direction to Laeken (Restau rants : Pavillon de la Reine, near the canal- bridge, at the entrance to the town ; Grande Grille, to the right, near the church , ‘plat du jour' 75 c .; several other cafés with gardens ), a suburb of Brussels with 22,900 inhab ., and the summer -residence of the king of Bel gium . It is connected with Brussels by two tramway -lines ( cars every 10 min . ), one running viâ the Rue de Progrès (Pl . E, 1) and the other via the Chaussée d'Anvers ( Pl. D, 1 ) . The two tramway - lines unite farther out, on the Laeken road , which leads to the new CHURCH OF ST. MARY, designed by Poelaert. The exterior is still unfinished , especially as regards its destined Gothic ornamentation, but the interior is finely proportioned . The place of the choir is occupied by an octagon , forming the royal burial - vault, and contain ing the remains of Leopold I. ( d . 1865) and Queen Louise (d . 1850) . The CEMETERY of Laeken has sometimes been styled the Père Lachaise of Brussels, but can of course bear no comparison with the great burial- ground of Paris , either in extent or in the interest of the monuments . A small chapel here contains the tomb of the singer Malibran (d . 1836) , adorned with a statue in marble by Geefs. The curious Galeries Funéraires in the S. part of the cemetery, resembling catacombs, were constructed a few years ago . The new street passing the E. side of the church and skirting the royal garden and park (generally closed ; celebrated hot-houses) ascends to the (20 min .) Montagne du Tonnerre (197 ft.), an emi nence crowned with the Monument OF LEOPOLD I., erected in 1880. The statue of the king, by W. Geefs, is surmounted by a lofty Gothic canopy resting on massive round pillars, somewhat in the style of the Albert Memorial in London. A winding stair ascends to the base of the spire , whence a fine view ( evening - light best) is obtained of Laeken and of Brussels, with the conspicuous dome of the new Palais de Justice . - The monument is surrounded with pleasure grounds; to the W.lies the Ferme Royale. Lerchtem Tamiset Anvers Bonde Loop 21 Neder! duronnerres Hoilestiset soe Sti Jelle Laeken Chatea mecate Stu hem Laekel MontPeisisLimet Drootboek Everel wor Ganshoreer Start Molen Pannenlais Fabr: hes Maisons neuves Stal Josaphat Stat Schaerbeek Koekelberg Koekelberg Vallée de Josaphat Moletech stat de la rue Bogter Bouvain Osseghem Veoks auar Beeca Avinkenberg port Sosse te Noode Salata Ch.deLouvain Wyngaerd autorul reke Ayden BB RUE s Struth to tedaLois Cureghe Parcs Cinquantenaire EUROOM al du Midi Etterbeek OUT Tayar TOO UZ Bas Cilles helles Chasse royale elles Le Chien La cumbre Verkeer en hnen Den Hoek Fleurgat i Le Chat EUR Forest Langeveld Boendael Boodentact an terhadas Koevoet Ucele sdat Watermael Watermalel Yossegal : Groeselberg Weerstalle Vert Chasseur Spoel Stalle, Asezaberg Geograph .Anstall von Maßstab 1 : 71.000 Bois de Soighes Kilom Wagner & Debes , Leipzig Bruxelles Tervueren Bruxelles FORET DE YOIGNS Cailt Moulin artte Belle Vue Château d'Argenteu 110 AlléeVerte Cabaret LaHulpe 96 16 110 96 StationChapelle Female Chap ! Mouchet Calvaire WATERLOG Bodrisstart Chapelle Petit Paris 10 stRoch Beaufaulx Na hipse,Cabaret Chenois 120 Sufrerie Au Champ du Gochênepabt chap 205 Les Baraques Chapella Braine Château le Chaples: Roch -Roussart Vieux-Amis Joli-Bois Entre les transbeche Vau Haies,F thaple Vert- Coucou Moulin 110 Menil Ferme Carrière Hussard ! Moulin Hôtel Chaple D. des colonnes Mont- S : Jealty Chapelle se Jacques des Fièvres cheapygodaro Fermede M.S. Jean Foura Chaux Chap 120 Station Braine- l'Alleud LaBergère Merbruine Ferme Laleve ChaplestEtickney pupelotteprea Honumo Il Monamentdes LeLion Gordon Hanovriens FmeMartin deWaterloo Chapelle se Sébastien KaHaie Sainte 120 130 1352 Casaque Lamarache Nivelles 130 Croix AuxRuines, arab chatente de Gaumont Ruines) 120 Au Soleil Cadaret, Chapette La Salière, Belle-Alliance, Cabaret Ferme Arbres Chape StRoch 130 Chapelle Moniment des Ferme Lacoste Prussiens 125 Mon Souhait, Termą Chap des Vaches Chap Bon Air,Ferme PLANCENOTT 140 Nanogyane 130 Ferme Rosdom Chapelle mivelles Genappe Gravé & imprimé p.Wagner & Debes , Leipzig. Echegn Echelle1:51.200 Kilomètres Bois de la Cambre. BRUSSELS. 12. Route. 115 To the S. E. of the monument, on the right of and visible from the road to it , rises the Royal Châtbau, erected by the Archduke Albert of Saxe- Teschen when Austrian stadtholder of the Nether lands in 1782-84 . In 1802-14 it was in the possession of Napoleon I. , who dated here his declaration of war against Russia in 1812. In 1815 the château became the property of the Crown . Leopold I. died here on 16th Dec., 1865. On New Year's Day 1890 a great part of the château was destroyed by fire and among the many objects of art which perished in the flames were Napoleon's library, valuable tapestries , and paintings by Van Dyck. The château has been rebuilt in its previous form . A steam - tramway runs from Laeken to (81/2 M.) Humbeek. About 31/2 M. to the N. of Laeken , and 3/4 M. from the village of Meysse, is the beautiful château of Bouchout, fitted up in 1879 as a resi dence for the unfortunate Princess Charlotte , widow of the Emp. Maximi lian of Mexico , who was shot in 1867. In the Central Cemetery at Evere, which is reached by the steam tramway (Pl . G, 2, 3 ) mentioned at p . 75 , a tasteful monument has been erected to the German soldiers who died in Belgium during the Franco German war. The pleasantest promenade in the environs of Brussels is the

• Bois de la Cambre, on the S.E. side , being a part of the Forêt de

Soignes , converted into a beautiful park resembling the Bois de Boulogne of Paris , under the auspices of M. Keilig, a landscape gardener . It covers an area of 450 acres , and is reached from the Boulevards by the broad and handsome Avenue Louise ( Pl . D, E, 6) , or Avenue du Bois de la Cambre, 11/2 M. in length , which is flanked by a number of handsome new houses. Before the Bois is reached , on the left , are the church of Ste. Croix and the two ponds of the suburb of Ixelles ; farther on , on the same side, is the old Abbaye de la Cambre de Notre Dame, below the road , now a military school . In the gardens adjoining the Avenue Louise, near the Bois de la Cambre, is a bronze group by Vincotte , represent ing a Horse - tamer . A tramway - line ( No. 1 , p . 75) runs to the en trance of the park , where there are several cafés and restaurants. In the park itself is the ‘ Laiterie' (* Restaurant, expensive), and farther on, on an island in the small lake, the “Chalet Robinson ' restaurant . Beyond the Bois de la Cambre is the Hippodrome, used for horse-races, and reached by steam-tramway from the Porte de Namur. 13. From Brussels to Charleroi viâ Luttre . Battle Field of Waterloo. 35 M. Railway in 11/ 4-2 hrs. ( fares 4 fr. 25 , 3 fr. 20 , 2 fr. 15 c . ) .- This line , which was opened a few years ago, affords a convenient route to the FIELD OF WATERLOO, especially for a single traveller. Those who merely desire a general view of the battle - field should take the train to Braine l'Alleud ( fares 1 fr . 45 , 1 fr . 10, 75 c . ) , whence the Hill of the Lion is 11/2 M. distant. Omnibus from Braine l'Alleud to the Hill of the Lion and back 8 * 116 Route 13 . WATERLOO. Sketch of 11/2 fr . (preferable to walking, as the traveller thus escapes the importunity of beggars) . The walk described below, from Waterloo to Mont St. Jean, La Ilaye Sainte , La Belle Alliance, Plancenoit, and back by Hougomont and the Lion Hill to Braine l'Alleud , in all 7-8 M., is , however, far more interest ing. If the walk be prolonged from Plancenoit to the S. to Genappe, the whole distance will be about 12 M. A coach leaves Brussels daily (except Sundays) between 9 and 10 a.m. for Waterloo, allowing 2-3 hrs. to visit the battle- field , and arrives again in Brussels about 5 p.m. (drive of 2 hrs.; return-fare 7 fr ). It starts from the Place Royale and calls at the principal hotels in the upper town . One- horse carriage from Brussels to Waterloo , 20 fr .; two-horse, 30 fr . The train starts from the Station du Midi at Brussels (p . 72 ), and traverses a pleasant country , passing through numerous cut tings. Stations Forest-Stalle, Uccle, Calevoet, Rhode- Saint-Genèse. 10 M. Waterloo, celebrated for the great battle of 18th June, 1815, and the headquarters of the Duke of Wellington from 17th to 19th June. The village lies on the Brussels and Charleroi road , 3/4 M. from the station . The church contains Wellington's bust , by Geefs , and numerous marble slabs to the memory of English of ficers. One tablet is dedicated to the officers of the Highland regi ments, and a few others to Dutch officers. The garden of a peasant (a few paces to the N. of the church ) contains an absurd monument to the leg of the Marquis of Anglesea (d. 1854) , then Lord Uxbridge, the commander of the British cavalry, who underwent the amputation immediately after the battle . The monument bears an appropriate epitaph, and is shaded by a weeping willow. Battle Field . A visit to Mont St. Jean , the two monuments on the battle -field, the Lion , and the farms of La Haye Sainte and Hougomont, occupies 2 hrs.; to La Belle Alliance and Plancenoit 2 hrs. more. The traveller will , however, obtain a general survey of the field during the first 2 hours. Guides. The annexed plan and the following brief sketch of the battle will enable the visitor to form a distinct conception of the positions occu pied by the respective armies without the services of a guide. The usual fee for the principal points of interest is 2 fr . ; if the excursion be extended to Plancenoit or Planchenois and the château of Frichemont, 3-4 fr.; but an agreement should invariably be made beforehand. Relics. Old bullets, weapons, buttons, and other relics are still occa sionally turned up by the plough , but most of those which the traveller is importuned to purchase are spurious. Inns at Mont St. Jean : lótel Mont St. Jean and ( to the right where the road to Nivelles diverges from the Namur road) Ilôtel des Colonnes, where Victor Ilugo is said to have finished his ' Misérables' . On the mound of the Lion , *Hôtel du Musée, moderate. Sketch of the Battle . A detailed history of the momentous events of 18th June , 1815 , would be beyond the scope of a guide-book ; but a brief and impartial outline, with a few statistics derived from the most trustworthy English and German sources , may perhaps be acceptable to those who visit this memorable spot . The ground on which Wellington took up his position after the Battle of Quatre Bras was admirably adapted for å defensive battle. The high roads from Nivelles and Genappe unite at the village of Mont Saint Jean, whence the main route leads to Brussels. In front of the village extends a long chain of hills with gentle slopes, which presented all the advantages the Battle , WATERLOO. 13. Route. 117 sought for by the Allies . The undulating ground behind this range afforded every facility for posting the cavalry and reserves so as to conceal them from the enemy. In this favourable position Wellington was fully justified in hoping at least to hold his own, even against a stronger enemy, until the assistance promised by Blücher should arrive. The first line of the Allied army, beginning with the right wing (on the W.) was arranged as follows. On the extreme right were placed two bri gades of the British household troops, consisting of two battalions of Foot Guards under Gen. Maitland, and two battalions of the Coldstream Guards under Gen. Byng. Next came a British brigade of four battalions under Gen. Sir Colin Halkett, adjoining whom were Kielmannsegge with five brigades ofHanoverians and a corps of riflemen , Col. Ompteda with a bri gade of the German Legion , and finally Alten's division . The whole of this portion of the line occupied the hills between the Nivelles and Genappe roads . Beyond the latter (i.e. , farther to the E.) Kemp was stationed with the 28th and 32nd regiments, a battalion of the 79th , and one of the 95th Rifles. Next came Bylant with one Belgian and five Dutch battalions , sup ported by Pack's brigade, posted a short distance in their rear, and consist ing of the 44th . These four battalions had suffered severely at Quatre Bras and were greatly reduced in number, but their conduct throughout the battle abundantly proved that their discipline and courage were unimpaired. Beyond the Netherlanders were drawn up Best's Hanoverians and Picton's infantry division , the latter partly composed of Hanoverians under Col. von Vincke. Next to these were stationed Vandeleur's brigade, the 11th, 12th , and 16th Light Dragoons , and finally on the extremeleft ( to the E. ) three regiments of light cavalry, consisting of the 10th and 18th British, and the 1st Hussars of the German Legion . The first line of the Allies was strengthened at various distances by Grant's and Dærnberg's cavalry-brigades, consisting of three English regi ments and three of the German Legion respectively, and posted near the Guards and Sir Colin Halkett . Next to them came a regiment of Hussars of the German Legion under Col. Arentschild ; then , to the E. of the Genappe road, two heavy brigades, the Household and the Union, to sup port Alten's and Picton's divisions. The former of these brigades was com posed of the 1st and 2nd Life Guards and the 1st Dragoon Guards under Lord Ed. Somerset ; the latter of the 1st Royal Dragoons, the Scots Greys, and the Irish Inniskillens, commanded by Gen. Sir W. Ponsonby. Besides the first line and the troops destined to cover it , various other forces were distributed as the circumstances and the formation of the ground required. Thus a brigade under Col. Mitchell , Sir Henry Clinton's division , Du Plat's German brigade , Adam's light brigade , and Halkett's Hanoverians were drawn up on the W. side of the Nivelles Chaussée and near the village of Merbe Braine. Finally the reserve of Brunswickers and Netherlanders, comprising infantry and cavalry, formed a line between Merbe Braine and MontSt. Jean, supported by Lambert's British brigade of three regiments , which had just arrived by forced marches from Ostend . The artillery, consisting chiefly of British troops , were distributed as occasion required. Every battery present was brought into action during the day, and nobly fulfilled its duty. In front of the centre of the Allied army lay the Château of Ilougo mont, which with its massive buildings , its gardens and plantations, formed an admirable point d'appui for the defence of the heights above. It was garrisoned by two light companies under Lord Saltoun, and two under Col. Macdonnel, strengthened by a battalion of Nassovians, a company of Hano verian riflemen , and about 100 men of the German Legion. This point holds a prominent place in the history of the battle , both on account of the fury with which it was attacked by the French, and the heroic and success ful defence of its occupants. Farther to the left, and nearer the front of the Allies, lay La Haye Sainte , a farm- house which was occupied by 400 men of the German Legion under Major von Baring, but after a noble de fence was taken by the French . The defence of the farms of Papelotte and La Haye on the extreme left was entrusted to the Nassovian Brigade under Duke Bernard of Weimar. 118 Route 13 . WATERLOO . Sketch of > Napoleon's army was drawn up in a semicircle on the heights to the E. and W. of the farm of La Belle Alliance , about one mile distant from the Allies . It was arranged in two lines , with a reserve in the rear. The first line consisted of two corps d'armée commanded by Reille and D'Erlon respectively, and flanked by cavalry on either side . One corps extended from La Belle Alliance westwards to the Nivelles road and beyond it, the other eastwards in the direction of the château of Frichemont. The second line was composed almost entirely of cavalry. Milhaud's cuiras siers and the light cavalry of the guards were drawn up behind the right wing , Kellermann's heavy cavalry behind the left . A body of cavalry and a portion of Lobau's corps were also stationed in the rear of the centre, whilst still farther back the imperial guard, consisting of infantry and artillery , were drawn up in reserve on each side of the chaussée. The Duke of Wellington's army consisted of 67,600 men , 24,000 of whom were British , 30,000 troops of the German Legion, Hanoverians, Brunswickers, and 'Nassovians, and 13-14,000 Netherlanders. Of these 12,400 were cavalry, 5,600 artillery with 180 guns . The army brought into the field by Napoléon numbered 71,900 men, of whom 15,700 were cavalry, 7,200 artillery with 246 guns. Numerically, therefore, the dif ference between the hostile armies was not great, but it must be borne in mind that no reliance could be placed on the Netherlanders, most of whom fled at an early stage of the battle. The staunch Dutch troops who formed part of this contingent did their utmost to prevent this das tardly act, but their efforts were unavailing. Had they formed a separate corps they would have been most valuable auxiliaries, butwhen mingled with the Belgian troops their bravery was utterly paralysed. Practically , therefore , the Duke's army consisted of barely 50,000 men, composed of four or five different elements , and a large porportion of them were raw recruits , whilst the soldiers of Napoleon constituted a grand and admirably -disciplined unity, full of enthusiasm for their general, and confident of victory . The superiority of the French artillery alone was overwhelming. After a wet and stormy night, the morning of the 18th of June gave some promise of clearing, but the sky was still overcast, and rain con tinued to fall till an advanced hour. The ground, moreover, was so thoroughly saturated that the movements of the cavalry and artillery were seriously obstructed . This was probably the cause of Napoleon's tardiness in attacking the Allies , and of the deliberation with which he spent several of the best hours of the morning in arranging his army with unusual display. It is not known precisely at what hour the first shots were fired ; someauthorities mention 8 o'clock , others half- past eleven or twelve, while the Duke himself, in his published despatch , names ten as the hour of the commencement of the battle. It is, however, probable that the actual fighting did not begin till between eleven and twelve. The first movement on the part of the French was the advance of a division of Reille's corps d'armée under Jérôme Bonaparte, a detach ment of which precipitated itself against the château of Hougomont, and endeavoured to take it by storm, but was repulsed. They soon renewed the attack with redoubled fury, and the tirailleurs speedily forced their way into the enclosure, notwithstanding the gallant resistance made by the Hanoverian and Nassovian riflemen . The British howitzers, however, now began to pour such a deadly shower of shells on the assailants that they were again compelled to retreat . This was but the prelude to a series of reiterated assaults , in which the French skirmishers in over whelming numbers were more than once nearly successful. Prodigies of valour on the part of the defenders , vigorously seconded by the artillery on the heights, alone enabled the garrison to hold out until the victory Had the French once gained possession of this miniature for tress , a point of vital importance to the Allies, the issue of the day would probably have been very different. Whilst Hougomont and its environs continued to be the scene of a desperate and unremitting conflict , a second great movement on the part of the French was directed against the centre and the left wing of the was won. the Battle . WATERLOO. 13. Route . 119 Allies. Supported by a cannonade of 72 pieces, the whole of Erlon's corps and a division of Kellermann's cavalry, comprising upwards of 18,000 men, bristled in columns of attack on the heights above La Haye Sainte , pre senting a magnificent but terrible spectacle . Their object was to storm La Haye Sainte, break through the centre of the Allied army, and attack the left wing in the rear. At the moment when Ney was about to begin the attack , Napoleon observed distant indications of the advance of new columns on his extreme right, and an intercepted despatch proved that they formed a part of the advanced guard of Bülow's Prussians, who were approaching from Wavre. The attack was therefore delayed for a short time , and Soult despatched a messenger to Marshal Grouchy, directing him to manæuvre his troops so as to intercept the Prussians . Owing, however, to a series of misunderstandings, Grouchy was too far distant from the scene of action to be of any service, and did not receive the order till seven in the evening. It was about two o'clock when Ney commenced his attack . The four divisions of Erlon's corps moved rapidly in four columns towards the Allied line between La Haye Sainte and Smouhen . Papelotte and Smouhen were stormed by Durette's division , but the former was not long maintained by the French. Donzelat's division took possession of the gardens of La Haye Sainte, notwithstanding the brave resistance of a Hanoverian bat talion , while the two other French divisions, those of Alix and Marcog net, pressed onwards without encountering any obstacle . Hardly had the two latter opened their fire on Bylant's Netherlandish contingent, when the Belgians were seized with a panic and thrown into confusion. All the efforts of their officers and the remonstrances of their Dutch com rades were utterly unavailing to reassure them , and amid the bitter execrations of the British regiments they fairly took to flight. Picton's division , however, now consisting solely of the two greatly-reduced brigades of Pack' and Kemp, and mustering barely 3000 men , prepared with un daunted resolution to receive the attack of the two French divisions, numbering upwards of 13,000 infantry, besides cavalry. The struggle was brief, but of intense fierceness. The charge of the British was irresist ible , and in a few moments the French were driven back totally dis comfited . The success was brilliant, but dearly purchased , for the gallant Picton himself was one of the numerous slain . During the temporary con fusion which ensued among Kemp's troops, who , however, soon recovered their order, the Duke communicated with' Lord Uxbridge , who put him . self at the head of Lord Edward Somerset's Household Brigade, consisting of two regiments of Life Guards, the Horse Guards, and Dragoon Guards. Meanwhile, too, a body of Milhaud's cuirassiers had advanced somewhat prematurely to‘La Haye Sainte and endeavoured to force their way up the heights towards the left centre of the Allied line . These two move ments gave rise to a conflict of unparalleled fury between the elite of the cavalry of the hostile armies. For a time the French bravely persevered, but nothing could withstand the overwhelming impetus of the Guards as they descended the slope, and the cuirassiers were compelled to fly in wild confusion. Somerset's brigade, regardless of consequences and en tirely unsupported, pursued with eager impetuosity. Atthis juncture two columns of the French infantry had advanced on Pack's brigade. The bagpipes yelled forth their war - cry, and the gallant Highlanders dashed into the thickest of the fight, notwithstanding the terrible majority of their enemy . This was one of the most daring exploits of the day ; but the mere handful of Northmen must inevitably have been cut to pieces to a man , had not Col. Ponsonby with the Inniskillens, the Scots Greys , and the Royal Dragoons opportunely flown to the rescue. The cavalry charge was crowned with brilliant success, and the French infantry were utterly routed . Pack's troops now recovered their order, and were re strained from the pursuit, but Ponsonby's cavalry, intoxicated with suc cess, swept onwards. The Royals encountered part of Alix's division , which was advancing towards Mont St. Jean , where a gap had been left by the flight of the Belgians . A fearful scene of slaughter ensued, and the French again endeavoured to rally . This charge was simultaneous > 120 Route 13 . WATERLOO. Sketch of with that of Lord Uxbridge on the cuirassiers, as mentioned above . At the same time the Greys and Inniskillens, who were in vain commanded to halt and rally, madly prosecuted their work of destruction. Somerset's and Ponsonby's cavalry had thus daringly pursued their enemy until they actually reached the French line near Belle Alliance. Here, however, their victorious career was checked. A fresh body of French cuirassiers and a brigade of lancers were put in motion against them, and they were compelled to retreat with considerable confusion and great loss . At this crisis Vandeleur's Light Dragoons came to the rescue, and the tide of the conflict was again turned ; but the French , whose cavalry far outnumbered those of the Allies, again compelled the British to abandon the unequal struggle . Retreat was once more inevitable , and the loss immense, but the French gained no decided advantage. Vandeleur himself fell , and Ponsonby was left on the field dangerously wounded. While the centre and left of the Allied line were thus actively en . gaged, the right was not suffered to repose . At a critical juncture, when Lord Saltoun and his two light companies were suffering severely in the defence of the orchard of Hougomont, and had been reduced to a mere handful of men, a battalion of Guards under Col. Hepburn was sent to their relief and drove off the French tirailleurs, whose loss was enormous . The château had meanwhile taken fire , and the effects of the conflagration were most disastrous to the little garrison, but most fortunately for the sufferers the progress of the flames was arrested near the doorway, where a crucifix hung. The sacred image itself was injured, but not destroyed ; and to its miraculous powers the Belgians attributed the preservation of the defenders . There was now a pause in the musketry fire, but the cannonade on both sides continued with increasing fury, causing frightful carnage. Erlon's and Reille's corps sustained a loss of nearly half their numbers, and of the former alone 3000 were taken prisoners . Nearly 40 of the French cannon were moreover silenced , their gunners having been slain. Napoleon now determined to make amends for these disasters by an overwhelming cavalry attack , while at the same time the infantry divisions of Jérôme and Foy were directed to advance. Milhaud's cuiras siers and a body of the French Guards , 40 squadrons in all , a most mag nificent and formidable array, advanced in three lines from the French heights , crossing the intervening valley, and began to ascend towards the Allies. During their advance the French cannonade was continued over their heads , ceasing only when they had nearly attained the brow of the opposite hili . The Allied artillery poured their discharge of grape and canister against the enemy with deadly effect, but without retarding their progress . In accordance with the Duke's instructions, the artillerymen now retreated for shelter behind the line ; the French cavalry charged, and the foremost batteries fell into their possession . The Allied infantry, Germans as well as British , had by this time formed into squares. There was a pause on the part of the cavalry, wh not expected to find their enemy in such perfect and compact array ; but after a momentary hesitation they dashed onwards. Thus the whole of the cuirassiers, fol lowed by the lancers and chasseurs swept through between the Allied squares, but without making any impression on them. Lord Uxbridge, with the fragments of his heavy cavalry , now hastened to the aid of the infantry, and drove the French back over the hill ; but his numbers were too reduced to admit of his following up this success, and before long the French, vigorously supported by their cannonade, returned . Again they swept past the impenetrable squares, and again all their efforts to break them were completely baffled , while their own ranks were terribly thinned by the fire of the undaunted Allies . Thus foiled , they once more abandoned the attack . Donzelat's infantry had meanwhile been advancing to support them , but seeing this total discomfiture and retreat, they too retired from the scene of action . The Allied lines were therefore again free, and the cannonade alone was now continued on both sides . After this failure, Napoleon commanded Kellermann, with his dragoons and cuirassiers, to support the retreating masses, and Guyot's heavy cavalry of the Guards advanced with the same object. Thesetroops, con . the Battle . WATERLOO. 13. Route. 121 sisting of 37 fresh squadrons, formed behind the shattered fragments of the 40 squadrons above mentioned , and rallied them for a renewed attack , and again the French line assumed a most threatening and imposing aspect. Perceiving these new preparations, the Duke of Wellington con tracted his line so as to strengthen the Allied centre, immediately after which manœuvres the French cannonade burst forth with redoubled fury. Again a scene precisely similar to that already described was re- enacted . The French cavalry ascended the heights, where they were received with a deadly cannonade, the gunners retired from their pieces at the latest possible moment, the French rode in vast numbers between the squares , and again the British and German infantry stood immovable . The cavalry then swept past them towards the Allied rear, and here they met with partial success, for a body of Netherlanders whom they had threatened at once began to retreat precipitately . As in the earlier part of the day, Lord Uxbridge flew to the rescue with the remnants of his cavalry , vigorously seconded by Somerset and Grant, and again the French horse men were discomfited . Lord Uxbridge now ordered a brigade of Belgian and Dutch carbineers, who had not as yet been in action , and were stationed behind Mont St. Jean, to charge the French cavalry who had penetrated to the allied rear ; but his commands were disregarded , and the Netherlanders took to flight. A body of Hussars of the German Legion, however, though far outnumbered by their enemy, gallantly charged them, but were compelled to retreat. The battle - field at this period presented a most remarkable scene. Friends and foes, French, German, and British troops, were mingled in apparently inextricable con fusion. Still, however , the Allied squares were unbroken , and the French attack, not being followed up by infantry, was again a failure. The assail ants accordingly, as before, galloped down to the valley in great confusion, after having sustained some disastrous losses . Lord Uxbridge attempted to follow up this advantage by bringing forward a fresh regiment of Hanoverian Hussars, but he was again doomed to disappointment ; for the whole troop , after having made a pretence of obeying his command, wheeled round and fled to Brussels , where they caused the utmost con sternation by a report that the Allies were defeated . During the whole of this time the defence of Hougomont had been gallantly and successfully carried on, and Du Plat with his Brunswickers had behaved with undaunted courage when attacked by French cavalry and tirailleurs in succession. The brave general himself fell , but his troops continued to maintain their ground, whilst Adam's Brigade ad . vanced to their aid . Overwhelming numbers of French infantry, how ever, bad forced their way between them , and reached the summit of the hill , threatening the right wing of the Allies with disaster. At this juncture the Duke at once placed himself at the head of Adam's brigade and commanded them to charge. The assault was made with the utmost enthusiasm , and the French were driven from the heights . The entire Allied line 'had hitherto held its ground, and Hougomont proved impreg nable. Napoleon therefore directed his efforts against La Haye Sainte , point of the utmost importance, which was bravely defended by Major von Baring and his staunch band of Germans. Ney accordingly ordered Donzelat's division to attack the miniature fortress. A furious cannonade opened upon it was the prelude to an attack by overwhelming numbers of tirailleurs. The ammunition of the defenders was speedily exhausted , the buildings took fire, and Baring with the utmost reluctance directed the wreck of his detachment to retreat through the garden. With heroic bravery the major and his gallant officers remained at their posts until the French had actually entered the house, and only when farther resist ance would have been certain death did they finally yield (see p. 126) and retreat to the lines of the Allies . After this success, the French pro ceeded to direct a similar concentrated attack against Hougomont, but in vain, for arms and ammunition were supplied in abundance to the little garrison , whilst the cannonade of the Allies was in a position to render them efficient service. La Haye Sainte, which was captured between 5 and 6 o'clock p.m. , now became a most advantageous point d'appui for the a 122 Route 13 . WATERLOO . Sketch of French tirailleurs, in support of whom Ney, during upwards of an hour, directed a succession of attacks against the Allied centre, but still with out succeeding in dislodging or dismaying the indomitable squares . Their numbers , indeed, were fearfully reduced, but their spirit was unbroken. There was, moreover, still a considerable reserve which had not yet been in action, although perhaps implicit reliance could not be placed on their steadiness . It was now nearly 7 p.m., and the victory on which the French had in the morning so confidently reckoned was still entirely unachieved . Meanwhile Blücher, with his gallant and indefatigable Prussians, whose timely arrival, fortunately for the Allies, prevented Napoleon from employing his reserves against them , had been toiling across the wet and spongy valleys of St. Lambert and the Lasne towards the scene of action. The patience of the weary troops was well- nigh exhausted . We can go no farther ', they frequently exclaimed . ' We must ' , was Blücher's reply. ' I have given Wellington my word, and you won't make me break it ! ' It was about 4.30 p.m. when the first Prussian battery opened its fire from the heights of Frichemont, about 21/4 miles to the S.E. of the Allied centre, whilst at the same time two cavalry regiments advanced to the attack . They were first opposed by Domont's cavalry division, beyond which Lobau's corps approached their new enemy. One by one the dif ferent brigades of Bülow's corps arrived on the field between Frichemont and Planchenois. Lobau stoutly resisted their attack, but his opponents soon became too powerful for him. By 6 o'clock the Prussians had 48 guns in action , the balls from which occasionally reached as far as the Genappe road. Lobau was now compelled to retreat towards the vil lage of Planchenois, a little to the rear of the French centre at Belle Alliance. This was the juncture, between 6 and 7 o'clock , when Ney was launching his reiterated but fruitless attacks against the Allied centre, 21/4 miles distant from this point. Napoleon now despatched eight bat talions of the guard and 24 guns to aid Marshal Lobau in the defence of Planchenois, where a sanguinary conflict ensued. Hiller's brigade en deavoured to take the village by storm , and succeeded in gaining posses sion of the churchyard , but a furious and deadly fusillade from the houses compelled them to yield. Reinforcements were now added to the combat ants of both armies. Napoleon sent four more battalions of guards to the scene of action, while fresh columns of Prussians united with Hiller's troops and prepared for a renewed assault. Again the village was taken, and again lost, the French even venturing to push their way to the vicinity of the Prussian line. The latter , however, was again reinforced by Tip pelskirch's brigade, a portion of which at once participated in the struggle. About 7 o'clock Zieten arrived on the field , and united his brigade to the extreme left of the Allied line, which he aided in the contest near La Haye and Papelotte. Prussians continued to arrive later in the evening but of course could not nov influence the issue of the battle. It became apparent to Napoleon at this crisis that if the Prussians succeeded in capturing Planchenois , while Wellington's lines continued steadfast in their position , a disastrous defeat of his already terribly - reduced army was inevitable. He therefore resolved to direct a final and desperate attack against the Allied centre , and to stimulate the flagging energies of his troops caused a report to be spread amongst them that Grouchy was ap proaching to their aid , although well knowing this to be impossible. Napoleon accordingly commanded eight battalions of his reserve Guards to advance in two columns, one towards the centre of the Allied right, the other nearer to Hougomont, while they were supported by a reserve of two more battalions, consisting in all of about 5000 veteran soldiers, who had not as yet been engaged in the action. Between these columns were the rempants of Erlon's and Reille's corps, supported by cavalry ; and somewhat in front of them Donzelat's division was to advance. Mean while the Duke hastened to prepare the wreck of his army to meet the attack . Du Plat's Brunswickers took up their position nearly opposite La Haye Sainte, between Halkett's and Alten's divisions . Maitland's and Adam's brigades were nominally supported by a division of Nether the Battle. WATERLOO . 13. Route. 123 landers under Gen. Chassé , while Vivian with his cavalry quitted the extreme left and drew up in the rear of Kruse's Nassovians, who had already suffered severely , and now began to exhibit symptoms of wa vering. Every available gun was posted in front of the line, and the orchard and plantations of Hougomont were strengthened by reinforce ments. The prelude to the attack of the French was a renewed and furious cannonade, which caused frightful havoc among the Allies . Don zelat's division then advanced in dense array from La Haye Sainte, in trepidly pushing their way to the very summit of the height on which the Allies stood. At the same time several French guns supported by them were brought within a hundred yards of the Allied front , on which they opened a most murderous cannonade. Kielmannsegge's Hanoverians suffered severe loss , the wreck of Ompteda's German brigade was almost annihilated, and Kruse's Nassovians were only restrained from taking to flight by the efforts of Vivian's cavalry . The Prince of Orange then ral lied the Nassovians and led them to the charge,but they were again driven back , and the Prince himself severely wounded. Du Plat's Brunswickers next came to the rescue and fought gallantly, but with no better result. The Duke, however, rallied them in person , and the success of the French was brief. At the same time the chief fury of the storm was about to burst forth farther to the right of the Allies. The Imperial Guard , com manded by the heroic Ney, Friant, and Michel, and stimulated to the ut. most enthusiasm by an address from Napoleon himself, formed in threaten ing and imposing masses on the heights of Belle Alliance , and there was a temporary lull in the French cannonade . The two magnificent columns, the flower of the French army, were now put in motion, one towards Hougomont and Adam's brigade, the other in the direction of Maitland and his Guards . As soon as the Guards had descended from the heights, the French batteries recommenced their work of destruction with terrible fury and precision, but were soon compelled to desist when they could no longer fire over the heads of their infantry. The latter had nearly attained the summit of the heights of the Allies , when the British gunners again resumed their work with redoubled energy, making innumerable gaps in the ranks of their assailants . Ney's horse was shot under him, but the gallant marshal continued to advance on foot ; Michel was slain , and Friant dangerously wounded . Notwithstanding these casualties , the Guards gained the summit of the hill and advanced towards that part of the line where Maitland's brigade had been ordered to lie down behind the ridge in the rear of the battery which crowned it . The Duke commanded here in person at this critical juncture. The French tirailleurs were speedily swept away by showers of grape and canister, but the column of French veterans continued to advance towards the apparently -unsupported battery. At this moment the Duke gave the signal to Maitland, whose Guards in stantaneously sprang from the earth and saluted their enemy with a fierce and murderous discharge. The effect was irresistible , the French column was rent asunder and vainly endeavoured to deploy ; Maitland and Lord Saltoun gave orders to charge, and the British Guards fairly drove their assailants down the hill . -Meanwhile the other column of the Imperial Guard was advancing farther to the right, although vigorously opposed by the well-sustained fire of the British artillery, and Maitland's Guards returned rapidly and without confusion to their position to pre pare for a new emergency. By means of a skilful mancuvre, Col. Col borne, with the 52nd , 71st, and 85th now brought his forces to bear on the flank of the advancing column , on which the three regiments simul taneously poured their fire. Here, too, the British arms were again suc cessful , and frightful havoc was committed in the French ranks. A scene of indescribable confusion ensued , during which many of Chassé's Nether landers in the rear took to Night, knowing nothing of the real issue of the attack . At the same time Maitland and his Guards again charged with fierce impetuosity from their mountain throne ' , and completed the rout of this second column of the Imperial Guard. In this direction , therefore , the fate of the French was sealed , and the Allies were tri umphant. Farther to the left of the Allied line, moreover, the troops of 124 Route 13 . WATERLOO . Battle Field Donzelat, Erlon , and Reille were in the utmost confusion , and totally un able to sustain the conflict. On the extreme left , however , the rightwing of the French was still unbroken, and the Young Guard valiantly defended Planchenois against the Prussians, who fought with the utmost bravery and perseverance notwithstanding the fearful losses they were sustain ing. Lobau also stoutly opposed Bülow and his gradually - increasing corps . Napoleon's well-known final order to his troops - ' Tout est per du ! Sauve qui peut ! ' was wrung from him in his despair on seeing his Guard utterly routed, his cavalry dispersed, and his reserves consumed. This was about 8 o'clock in the evening, and the whole of the Allied line, with the Duke himself among the foremost, now descended from their heights, and, notwithstand a final attempt at resistance on the part of the wreck of the Imperial Guard , swept all before them , mounted the enemy's heights, and even passed Belle Alliance itself. Still the battle raged fiercely at and around Planchenois, but shortly after 8 o'clock the gallant efforts of the Prussians were crowned with success . Planchenois was captured , Lobau and the Young Guard defeated after a most obstinate and sanguinary struggle , the French retreat became general, and the vic tory was at length completely won . Not until the Duke was perfectly assured of this did he finally give the order for a general halt, and the Allies now desisted from the pursuit at a considerable distance beyond Belle Alliance . On his way back to Waterloo, Wellington met Blücher at the Maison Rouge, or Maison du Roi, not far from Belle Alliance, and after mutual congratulations both generals agreed that they must advance on Paris without delay. Blücher, moreover, many of whose troops were comparatively fresh , undertook that the Prussians should continue the pursuit, a task of no slight importance and difficulty, which Gen. Gneise nau most admirably executed, thus in a great measure contributing to the ease and rapidity of the Allied march to Paris. So ended one of the most sanguinary and important battles which history records, in the issue of which the whole of Europe was deeply interested . With the few exceptions already mentioned , all the troops concerned fought with great bravery, and many prodigies of valour on the part of regiments , and acts of daring heroism by individuals , are on record . The loss of life on this memorable day was commensurate with the long duration and fearful obstinacy of the battle . Upwards of 50,000 soldiers perished , or were hors de combat, whilst the sufferings of the wounded baffle description. The loss of the Allies (killed, wounded, and missing) amounted to about 14,000 men . Of these the British alone lost 6932, including 456 officers ; the German contingents 4494, including 246 officers. The total loss of the Prussians was 6682 men, of whom 223 were officers. The Netherlanders estimated their loss at 4000 from the 15th to 18th June . The loss of the French has never been ascertained with certainty, but probably amounted to 30,000 at least , besides 7800 prisoners taken by the Allies. About 227 French guns were also captured, 150 by the Allies, thc rest by the Prussians. Napoleon's errors in the conduct of the battle were perhaps chiefly these, that he began the battle at too late an hour of the day, that he wasted his cavalry reserves in a reckless manner, and that he neglected to take into account the steadiness with which British infantry are wont to maintain their ground . The Duke of Wellington is sometimes blamed for giving battle with a forest in the rear, which would preclude the pos sibility of retreat ; but the groundlessness of the objection is apparent to those who are acquainted with the locality, for not only is the Forêt de Soignes traversed by good roads in every direction , but it consists of lofty trees growing at considerable intervals and unencumbered by underwood. It is a common point of controversy among historians, whether the victo rious issue of the battle was mainly attributable to the British or the Prussian troops. The true answer probably is, that the contest would have been a drawn battle but for the timely arrival of the Prussians. It has already been shown how the Allied line successfully baffled the utmost efforts of the French until 7 p.m. , and how they gloriously repelled the final and most determined attack of the Imperial Guard about 8 2 of Waterloo. MONT ST. JEAN. 13. Route . 125 6 o'clock. The British troops and most of their German contingents, there fore, unquestionably bore the burden and heat of the day ; they virtually annihilated the flower of the French cavalry, and committed fearful havoc among the veteran Guards , on whom Napoleon had placed his utmost re liance. At the same time it must be remembered that the first Prussian shots were fired about half -past four, that by half- past six upwards of 15,000 of the French ( Lobau's corps, consisting of 6600 infantry and 1000 artillery, with 30 guns; 12 battalions of the Young Imperial Guard, about 6000 men in all ; 18 squadrons of cavalry, consisting of nearly 2000 men ) were drawn off for the new struggle at Planchenois, and that the loss of the Prussians was enormous for a conflict comparatively so brief, proving how nobly and devotedly they performed their part. The Duke of Wel lington himself, in his despatch descriptive of the battle, says that the British army never conducted itself better, that he attributed the success ful issue of the battle to the cordial and timely assistance of the Prus sians , that Bülow's operation on the enemy's flank was most decisive, and would of itself have forced the enemy to retire , even if he ( the Duke) had not been in a situation to make the attack which produced the final result ' . The French colonel Charras, in his ' Campagne de 1815 ' (pub. at Brussels, 1858 ), a work which was long prohibited in France, thus sums up his opinion regarding the battle : Wellington par sa ténacité inébranlable, Blücher par son activité audacieuse , tous les deux par l'habilité et l'accord de leurs maneuvres ont produit ce résultat '. - The battle is usually named by the Germans after the principal position of the French at Belle Alliance, but is is far more widely known as the Battle of Waterloo, the name given to it by Wellington himself. About halfway to Mont St. Jean , which is about 3 M. from Waterloo, is the monument of Col. Stables , situated behind a farm house on the right, and not visible from the road . The road to the left leads to Tervueren, a royal château, once the property of the Prince of Orange. The royal stud was kept here till 1857, when it was transferred to the old abbey of Gembloux (p . 191) . The road from Waterloo to Mont St. Jean ( Hôtel des Colonnes, p. 116) is bordered by an almost uninterrupted succession of houses. At the village , as already remarked , the road to Nivelles diverges to the right from that to Namur. To the right and left, immediately beyond the last houses , are depressions in the ground where the British reserves were stationed . About 2/3 M. beyond the village we next reach a bye-road , which intersects the high -road at a right angle , leading to the left to Wavre, and to the right to Braine l'Alleud . Here, at the corner to the right, once stood an elm, under which the Duke of Wellington is said to have remained during the greater part of the battle . The story, however, is unfounded, as it is well known that the Duke was almost ubiquitous on that memorable occasion . The tree has long since disappeared under the knives of credulous relic-hunters . On the left, beyond the cross-road , stands an Obelisk (Pl . i) to the memory of the Hanoverian officers of the German Legion , among whose names that of the gallant Ompteda stands first . Opposite to it rises a Pillar ( Pl . k) to the memory of Colonel Gor don, bearing a touching inscription. Both these monuments stand on the original level of the ground , which has here been consider ably lowered to furnish materials for the mound of the lion . In 126 Route 13 . LA HAYE SAINTE. Battle Field this neighbourhood Lord Fitzroy Somerset, afterwards Lord Raglan , the Duke's military secretary, lost his arm . About 1/4 M. to the right rises the Mound of the Belgian Lion (Pl . 1 ) , 200 ft. in height, thrown up on the spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded in the battle . The lion was cast by Cockerill of Liège (p . 213 ), with the metal of captured French cannon , and is said to weigh 28 tons . The French soldiers , on their march to Antwerp in 1832, hacked off part of the tail , but Marshal Gérard protected the monument from farther injury . The mound commands the best survey of the battle - field, and the traveller who is furnished with the plan and the sketch of the battle , and has consulted the maps at the Hôtel du Musée, will here be enabled to form an idea of the progress of the fight . The range of heights which extends past the mound, to Ohain on the E. and to Merbe - Braine on the W. , was occupied by the first line of the Allies . As the crest of these heights is but narrow , the second line was enabled to occupy a shel tered and advantageous position on the N. slopes , concealed from the eye of their enemy. The whole line was about 11/2 M. in length, forming a semicircle corresponding to the form of the hills . The centre lay between the mound and the Hanoverian monument. The chain of heights occupied by the French is 1 M. distant, and separated from the Allied position by a shallow intervening valley , across which the French columns advanced without maneu vering , being however invariably driven back . The Allied centre was protected by the farm of La Haye Sainte, situated on the right of the road, about 100 paces from the two monuments. defended with heroic courage by a light battalion of the German Legion , commanded by Major v . Baring, whose narrative is ex tremely interesting . After giving a minute description of the locality and the disposition of his troops, he graphically depicts the furious and repeated assaults suc cessfully warded off by his little garrison, and his own intense excitement and distress on finding that their stock of ammunition was nearly expended . Then came the terrible catastrophe of the buildings taking fire , which the gallant band succeeded in extinguishing by pouring water on it from their camp-kettles, although not without the sacrifice of several more precious lives. “ Many of my men " , he continues, although covered with wounds, could not be induced to keep back . As long as our officers fight, and we can stand ' , was their invariable answer, won't move from the spot ! ' I should be unjust to the memory of a'rifle man named Frederick Lindau, if I omitted to mention his brave conduct. He had received two severe wounds on the head , and moreover had in his pocket a purseful of gold which he had taken from a French officer . Alike regardless of his wounds and his prize , he stood at a small side door of the barn , whence he could command with his rifle the great en trance in front of him . Seeing that his bandages were insufficient to stop the profuse bleeding from his wounds, I desired him to retire , but he positively refused , saying : ' A craven is ' he who would desert you as long as his head is on his shoulders ! He was, however, afterwards taken prisoner, and of course deprived of his treasure. He then relates to what extremities they were reduced by the havoc made in the building by the French cannonade, and how at length , when their ammunition was almost exhausted , they perceived two fresh columns marching against It was we 6 of Waterloo. HOUGOMONT. 13. Route. 127 now ex them. Again the enemy succeeded in setting the barn on fire, and again it was successfully extinguished in the same manner as before. “ Every shot we fired increased myanxiety and distress . I again de spatched a messenger for aid , saying that I must abandon the defence if not provided with ammunition , but in vain ! As our fusillade diminished , our embarrassment increased . Several voices claimed : 'We will stand by you most willingly, but we must have the means of defending ourselves ! Even the officers, who had exhibited the utmost bravery throughout the day, declared the place now untenable . The enemy soon perceived our defenceless condition , and boldly broke open one of the doors . As but few could enter at a time, all who crossed the threshold were bayonetted , and those behind hesitated to encounter the same fate. They therefore clambered over the walls and roofs, whence they could shoot down my poor fellows with impunity . At the same time they thronged in through the open barn, which could no longer be de fended . Indescribably hard as it was for me to yield , yet feelings of humanity now prevailed over those of honour. I therefore ordered my men to retire to the garden at the back . The effort with which these words were wrung from me can only be understood by those who have been in a similar position . " “ As the passage of the house was very narrow, several of my men were overtaken before they could escape . One of these was the Ensign Frank, who had already been wounded . He ran through with his sabre the first man who attacked him, but the next moment his arm was broken by a bullet. He then contrived to escape into one of the rooms and con ceal himself behind a bed . Two other men fled into the same room , closely pursued by the French , who exclaimed : ' Pas de pardon à ces brigands verts ! ' and shot them down before his eyes . Most fortunately , however, he remained undiscovered until the house again fell into our hands at a later hour. As I was now convinced that the garden could not possibly be maintained when the enemy was in possession of the house, I ordered the men to retreat singly to the main position of the army. The enemy, probably satisfied with their success, molested us no farther ." The door of the house still bears traces of the French bullets . Several of the unfortunate defenders fled into the kitchen , adjoining the garden at the back on the left. The window was and is still secured with iron bars, so that all escape was cut off. Several were shot here , and others thrown into the kitchen- well , where their bodies were found after the battle . An iron tablet bears an inscription to the memory of the officers and privates who fell in the defence of the house . Farther to the W. are Papelotte, La Haye, and Smouhen, which served as advanced works of the Allies on their extreme left . They were defended by Nassovians and Netherlanders under Duke Bernhard of Saxe-Weimar, but fell into the hands of the French about half- past 5 o'clock . The defenders of Goumont, or Hougomont, another advanced work of the Allies , situated about 1/2 M. to the S.W. of the Lion , were more fortunate . This interesting spot formed the key to the British position , and had Napoleon once gained possession of it , his advantage would have been incalculable . The buildings still bear many traces of the fearful scenes which were enacted here . It is computed that throughout the day the attacks of nearly 12,000 men in all were launched against this miniature fortress, notwithstand ing which the garrison held out to the last (see p. 128). The > 128 Route 13 . HOUGOMONT. Battle Field > French stormed the orchard and garden several times , but they did not succeed in penetrating into the precincts of the build ings. The latter, moreover, caught fire, adding greatly to the em barrassment of the defenders, but happily the progress of the flames was arrested . Hougomont was at that time an old , partly dilapidated château , to which several outbuildings were attached . The whole was surrounded by a strong wall , in which numerous loop-holes had been made by express orders of the Duke in person, thus forming an admirable though diminutive stronghold . Notwith standing these advantages , however, its successful defence against the persistent attacks of overwhelming numbers was solely due to the daring intrepidity of the little garrison . The wood by which it was once partly surrounded was almost entirely destroyed by the cannonade . The loop-holes , as well as the marks of the bullets, are still seen , and the place presents a shattered and ruinous aspect to this day . The orchard contains the graves of Capt. Blackman, who fell here , and of Sergt . Cotton , a veteran of Waterloo who died at Mont St. Jean in 1849 ( 1/2 fr. is exacted from each visitor to the farm ). Hougomont is about 1 M. from Braine l'Alleud (p . 130). Prodigies of valour were performed by the Coldstreams and their auxiliaries at Hougomont, and fortunately with a more successful result than that which attended their heroic German allies at La Haye Sainte. At one critical juncture the French were within a hair's breadth of capturing this fiercely-contested spot . They forced their way up to the principal gate , which was insufficiently barricaded , and rushing against it in dense crowds actually succeeded in bursting it open. A fearful strug gle ensued . The Guards charged the assailants furiously with their bayonets , whilst Col. Macdonnel , Capt. Wyndham , Ensign Gooch, Ensign Hervey, and Serg. Graham, by dint of main force and daring courage, contrived to close the gate in the very face of the enemy. At a later hour a vehement assault was made on the back- gate of the offices, the barricades of which threatened to yield , although crowds of the assailants were swept away by a well-directed fire from the loop-holes. At the same time one of the French shells set fire to the buildings, and the flames burst forth with an ominous glare. Sergt. Graham immediately requested leave of Col. Macdonnel to retire for a moment, which the latter accorded, although not without an expression of surprise. A few moments later the gallant sergeant re-appeared from amidst the blazing ruins, hearing his wounded brother in his arms, deposited him in a place of safety, and at once resumed his work in strengthening the barricades, where the danger was rapidly becoming more and more imminent. Suddenly a French grenadier was seen on the top of the wall, which he and his comrades were in the act of scaling. Capt . Wyndham, observing this , shouted to Graham : ' Do you see that fellow ?' Graham , thus again interrupted in his work , snatched up his musket, took aim , and shot the Frenchman dead. No others dared to follow , the attack on the gate was abandoned by the enemy, and the danger again successfully averted . Similar attacks were launched against the château with unremitting energy from half-past 11 in the morning until nearly 8 in the evening, but were repelled with equal success. Most fortunately for the defenders, their supply of ammu nition was abundant. Had it been otherwise, Hougomont must inevitably have met with the same fate as La Haye Sainte ; Napoleon would then have been enabled to attack the Duke's right flank, and the Allies would most probably have been defeated, or rather virtually annihilated . The neighbourhood of Hougomont is said to have been the scene of the following well - authenticated anecdote. Colonel Halkett's brigade , of Waterloo. BELLE ALLIANCE. 13. Route. 129 consisting of raw levies of troops , most of whom now faced an enemy for the first time, were exposed to a galling fire from Cambronne's brigade , which formed the extreme left of the enemy's line . Halkett sent his skirmishers to meet the vanguard of the French , somewhat in advance of whom Gen. Cambronne himself rode. Cambronne's horse having been shot under him, Halkett immediately perceived that this was an admir able opportunity for a coup de main calculated to inspire his troops with confidence. He therefore galloped up alone to the French general , threatening him with instantaneous death if he did not surrender. Cam bronne, taken by surprise, presented his sword and surrendered to the gallant' colonel , who at once led him back to the British line. Before reaching it , however, Halkett's horse was struck by a bullet and fell. Whilst struggling to disengage himself, he perceived to his extreme morti fication that the general was hastening back to his own troops ! By dint of great efforts , however , Halkett got his horse on his legs again, gal loped after the general, overtook him , and led him back in triumph to his own line . The field -road to Belle Alliance from the gate of the farm skirts the wall to the left . It soon becomes narrower , and after leading about 50 paces to the right passes through a hedge, traverses a field , and passes an embankment. After a walk of 5 min . a good path is reached , leading to the high-road in 12 min . more . Coster's house lies to the right. In a straight direction the road leads to Planchenois (see below ). Belle Alliance is situated on the left. This name is applied to a low white house of one story on the road- side , now a poor tavern , 1 M. to the E. of Hougomont. A marble slab over the door bears the inscription : ' Rencontre des gén éraux Wellington et Blucher lors de la mémorable bataille du 18. Juni 1815, se saluant mutuellementvainqueurs'. The statement, however, is erroneous. It is well ascertained that Blücher did not overtake the Duke until the latter had led his troops as far as La Maison du Roi, or Maison Rouge, on the road to Genappe, about 2 M. beyond Belle Alliance , where he gave the order to halt . This was the scene of the well- known anecdote so often related of the Duke , who when urged not to expose himself unne cessarily to danger from the fire of the straggling fugitives, replied : ' Let them fire away. The victory is gained, and my life is of no value now ! ' The house of Belle Alliance was occupied by the French , and their lines were formed adjacent to it . Napoleon's post during the greater part of the battle was a little to the right of the house , and on the same level . On the N. side of Belle Alliance a field - road diverges from the high-road, and leads to Plancenoit, or Planchenois, a village situ ated 1 M. to the S.E. , which the traveller who desires to appreciate the important part acted by the Prussians in the battle should not fail to visit. To the left, on a slight eminence near the village, rises the Prussian Monument (Pl . m) , an iron obelisk with an appropriate inscription in German . It was injured by the French when on their way to the siege of Antwerp in 1832, but has since been restored . The battle between the French and the brave Prussians raged with the utmost fury at and around Plancenoit from half- past six till nearly nine o'clock . Nine regiments of infantry , a regiment of hussars ,and the cavalry of the 4th Corps d'Armée commanded byPrince William of Prussia were engaged in the action , and fiercely contested the possession of the village. The churchyard was the scene of the most sanguinary struggles, in which vast numbers of brave soldiers fell on both sides. The village BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit . 9 130 Route 13. NIVELLES. was captured several times by the Prussians , and again lost ; but they finally gained possession of it between 8 and 9 o'clock . The combatants of both armies in this conflict were all comparatively fresh , and the fury with which they fought was intensified by the bitter hostility of the two nations, and a thirst for vengeance on the part of the Prussians for pre vious reverses. The victory on this part of the field was therefore achiev ed towards 8 o'clock , and the defeat of the French was rendered doubly disastrous by the spirited and well - organised pursuit of Gneisenau. The French retreat, which soon became a disorderly sauve qui peut, followed the road to Genappe (p . 182), a village about 4M . to the S. of Plancenoit. Near Genappe , where the road was blocked with cannon and waggons, the Prussians captured Napoleon's travelling carriage, which the emperor had probably just quitted in precipitate haste, as it still contained his hat and sword. CONTINUATION OF RAILWAY JOURNEY. The next station beyond Waterloo is ( 12 M. from Brussels) Braine l'Alleud , Flem . Eigen Brakel ( Hôtel du Midi; H. de l'Etoile ), a manufacturing town with 6600 inhab . , whence the mound of the lion (p . 126) on the field of Waterloo, which is visible to the left, is 11/2 M. distant. The road to it leads directly N. from the station . Branch-line to Tubize, see p . 178 . 151/2 M. Lillois . 18 M. Baulers , a suburb of Nivelles , is tho junction of the Manage and Wavre line (p. 182) . 181/2 M. Nivelles (Hôtel du Mouton Blanc), Flem. Nyvel, on the Thines , a manufacturing town with 10,000 inhab ., owes its origin to a convent founded here about the middle of the 7th cent . by Ida, wife of Pepin of Landen. The Romanesque church of the convent, built in the 11th cent . , still exists, but the interior suffered de facement in the 18th cent. , though the crypt still remains purely Romanesque. The tower, one of the loftiest in Belgium, was restored in 1859 , after a fire , with little success . On the high altar is the beautiful 13th cent. reliquary of St. Gertrude (daughter of Pepin) , to whom the church is dedicated ; and among the many interesting objects in the treasury is the saint's crystal goblet with enamelled foot. The station is called Nivelles - Est , and lies at some distance from the town ( Nivelles-Nord, see p . 182). The Baulers-Fleurus- Châtelineau line diverges at Nivelles -Est : 19 M. , in 1-11/ 4 hr. ( fares 2 fr . 35, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr . 20 c .). Fleurus , see p. 203. 23 M. Obaix - Buzet ; 251/2 M. Luttre , the junction of a line to Jumet (Charleroi , Châtelineau) and to Piéton (p . 181) , viâ Tra zegnies. Our line here unites with the Ghent and Braine- le -Comte railway, which proceeds, viâ (29 M.) Gosselies and (30 M. ) Roux, to - 35 M. Charleroi, see p . 183 . > 7 14. From Brussels to Antwerp viå Malines. 271/2 M. RAILWAY to Malines in 25-45 min. (fares 1 fr. 60, 1 fr. 20, 80 c .) ; to Antwerp in 3/4-11/2 hr. ( fares 3 fr . 35 , 2 fr . 50, 1 fr. 70 c . ) . Ex press- fares one- fourth higher. The train starts from the Station du Nord. Travellers starting from the Station du Quartier Léopold change carriages at ( 2 M. ) Schaerbeek ( p. 195). A fertile and grassy plain , through which the Senne winds, is traversed . - 41/2 M. Haeren . 年 - 。 ! A B с D C.2 . C. 4 . 1. Archevêché 2.Athénée Eglises : 3. du Gr. Béguinage 4.Cathédrale (S ! Rombeart 5.stCatherine 1 6. S. Jean 7. Notre Dame 8. d'Hanswyk 9. S. Pierre et Paau 10.Halle B. 2 . C.3 . C.2 . C.3 . B. 4 . C.5 . D.3 . C.3 . Hospices: 11. αν 12. militaire 13. Notre - Dame 14. d'oliveten 15. Speeca 16. S'Hedwig 17. des vieillards 18. Hotel de ville C.4 . 19. Mont- de - piété C.D.2 20. Monum de Marg.d'Autriche D.3 . 21. Musée A.2 . 22.Prison cellulaire B. C.5 . 23. Semanare archiep . B.4 . 24. Théâtre B.2 . 25. Tribunal pte ste Catherine C. 3 . C.D.3 C , 3 . C.3 . C.2 . C.3 . D.3 . D. 3.4 . tor as crne 02Boulevard pte Winket Ethern NDIR N Pifdes Vaches pte d'Adeghem olivere Bol Hiltong PL. $'Rombaut Thes AURER 3 Grand Wh Place Marche de au Betail Untus SU de fer Vareha Beurre 16 మల . com Vedko spoel LausGraines ron WC PER Bruxelles Boulevard des Arbalétriers By en POTE BRADA 5 pto d'Egmonte mon CORO CES ce entral. Magasin PL de la Station Arsenal Station Termonde desChem . MALINES.MECHELEN . de fer Brucelles 100 200 300 100 300nêtres . B C graph . Anstalt von D Wagner & Debes,Leipzig MALINES. 14. Route. 131 61/4 M. Vilvorde, a small town on the Senne, one of the most ancient in Brabant, with the military penitentiary. A melancholy interest attaches to Vilvorde as the scene of the martyr dom of WILLIAM TYNDALE , the zealous English Reformer and trans lator of the Bible. Hewas compelled to leave England on account of his heretical doctrines in 1523, and the same year he completed his translation of the New Testament from the Greek . He then began to publish it at Cologne, but was soon interrupted by his Romish antagonists, to escape from whom he fled to Worms, where the publication was completed in 1525. Copies soon found their way to England, where prohibitions were issued against them , in consequence of which most of them were burnt. “ They have done no other thing than I looked for ', observed the pious translator , on hearing of this ; no more shall they do , if they burn me also !' 'Notwithstanding the vehement opposition of Archbp. Warham , Card . Wolsey, and Sir Thomas More ( who vainly strove to refute the new doctrine in a work of 7 vols . ), four new editions rapidly found their way to England. In 1529 Tyndale began to publish the first four books of the Old Testament at Antwerp , where he now acted as chaplain to the British merchants settled in that city . He was at length arrested through the treachery of a spy, and sent to Vilvorde , where he was imprisoned for two years . He was then tried , and condemned as a heretic . On 6th Oct. , 1536, he was chained to the 'stake, strangled , and finally burnt to ashes. His last words were: ' Lord , open the King of England's eyes ! He was a man of simple and winningmanners , indefatigable industry, and fervent piety. His New Testament, which'was translated indepen dently of his illustrious predecessor Wyckliffe , and his still more cele brated contemporary Luther, forms the basis of the Authorised Version. It is a remarkable fact, that the year after his martyrdom the Bible was published throughout England by royal command , and appointed to be placed in every church for the use of the people. We catch a distant view here , on the right, of the village of Perck (3 M. from the railway ), near which is the farm -house ofDry Toren , once the country- seat of David Teniers the Younger (d . 1685 ; buried in the church of Perck ). Near (8 M.) Eppeghem , to the E. , but scarcely visible from the railway, stands the old château of Steen , purchased by Rubens in 1635 as a summer- resort for 93,000 florins. - 10 M. Weerde. The huge tower of the cathedral of Malines now becomes con spicuous in the distance . The train crosses the Louvain Canal . 13 M. Malines. Hotels. Hôtel DE LA STATION , at the station ; HÔTEL DE LA COUPE, near the cathedral; HÔTEL BUDA, opposite the cathedral tower, R., L., & A. 21/2-3, B. 1 , D. 21/2 fr. ; HÔTEL LA COUR DE BEFFER, Rue de Beffer 34, near the Grande Place'; CHEVAL D'Or, Rue des Béguines 2, near the cathedral . Restaurant at the station . A visit to the Cathedral and the paintings by Rubens in the churches of St. Jean and Notre Dame may be accomplished in 3 hrs . The ancient town of Malines, Flem . Mechelen (49,000 inhab . ), situated on the tidal river Dyle , which flows through the town in numerous arms and is crossed by 35 bridges, is the seat of a cardinal archbishop, the primate of Belgium. Notwithstanding its broad and regular streets, handsome squares , and fine buildings , it is a dull place , and totally destitute of the brisk traffic which enlivens most of the principal Belgian towns . The quietness of the town forms a strong contrast to the busy scene at the station , which possesses extensive railway -workshops and is the focus of several of the most important 9 * 132 Route 14 . MALINES. From Brussels 7 railways in Belgium ( Liège - Ostend, Antwerp - Brussels, Malines Saint -Nicolas ). The unenterprising character of the inhabitants is more tersely than politely described in the monkish lines mentioned in the Introduction (p. xx) . In order to reach the town , which is more than 1/4 M. from the station , we follow the broad Rue Conscience bearing to the right, traverse the Place d'Egmont and cross the Dyle. Beside the bridge , to the right, is the Athénée , with a fine garden (Pl . C, 4, 5 ; adm . 1/2 fr . ), adorned with a statue of Dodonaeus, the botanist, born at Malines in 1517. We proceed in the same direction through the Bruulstraat, leading to the GRANDE PLACE (Pl. C , 3) , where a poor statue ( Pl. 20) by Tuerlinckx of Malines was erected in 1849 to Margaret of Austria (d . 1530) , daughter of Maximilian I. and Mary of Burgundy ( p . xvii), celebrated as regent of the Netherlands and instructress of Charles V. The circle described on the ground round the monument indicates the size of the cathedral clock ( see below ). The Place still boasts of several mediæval buildings . The old Cloth Hull (Pl . 10 ), begun in 1340, but left uncompleted , with a superstructure of the 16th cent., is now used as the Guard House. The Hôtel de Ville (Pl . 18 ), between the Grande Place and the cathedral , was entirely remodelled during the last century . Opposite this building , and standing a little way back from the Place , is an old late -Gothic building called the ' Schepenen - Huis' ( or house of the bailiffs ) , with the inscription Musée (Pl . 21 ; Č, 3) , containing a collection of civic antiquities, reminiscences of Margaret of Austria , a few ancient andmodern pictures ( including a small Crucifixion by Rubens ), etc. (The concierge lives in the market- place, No. 2, in the house next door to the Hôtel de Ville ; fee 1/2 fr . ). The * CATHEDRAL of St. Rombold (St. Rombaut, Pl . 4 ; closed from 12 to 2.30, and after 5.30 p.m. ) , begun at the end of the 12th cent., completed in 1312, but to a great extent rebuilt, after a fire , in the 14th and 15th centuries , is a cruciform Gothic church with a richly - decorated choir and a huge unfinished W. tower (324 ft . in height; projected height 460 ft .). The face of the clock on the tower is 49 ft . in diameter. The church was almost entirely erected with money paid by the pilgrims who flocked hither in the 14th and 15th centuries to obtain the indulgences issued by Pope Nicholas V. On the increase of the hierarchy of the Netherlands in 1559 (p . xvii), the Cathedral of St. Rombold was raised by Pope Paul IV . to the dignity of being the archiepiscopal metropolitan church. The first archbishop was Antoine Perenot de Granvella, the hated minister of Margaret of Parma, who was shortly after wards created a cardinal. The church is now undergoing a thorough restoration ; the interior is almost completed . The Interior of the church ( length 306 ft., nave 89 ft. high) is imposing, and worthy of its archiepiscopal dignity. It is adorned by to Antwerp. MALINES. 14. Route . 133 several admirable pictures, the finest of which is an * Altarpiece by Van Dyck , representing the Crucifixion, in the S. transept, painted in 1627 , and successfully cleaned in 1848 (covered) . This is one of the finest of the master's works , and is worthy of the most careful inspection . The composition is extensive and skilfully arranged ; the profound grief and resignation depicted in the countenance of the Virgin are particularly well expressed . In the N. (1. ) tran sept : Erasmus Quellin, Adoration of the Shepherds. In the N. aisle , 1st chapel on the left (reckoned from the chief entrance), Wouters, Last Supper ; opposite is a monument in marble to Arch bishop Méan ( d . 1831) , who is represented kneeling before the Angel of Death, executed by Jehotte, a sculptor of Liège . In the S. aisle : twenty - five scenes from the history of St. Rombold, ex tending from his appointment to the office of bishop down to his martyrdom and the miracles wrought by his relics ( Flemish school of the 15th cent. , restored in 1857) . The Pulpit, carved in wood, like those in the principal Belgian churches , by Boeckstuyns of Malines ', represents the Conversion of St. Paul. Above , St. John and the women at the foot of the Cross ; at the side , Adam and Eve and the serpent. By the pillars are statues of the Apostles (17th cent. ). Elaborately carved organ -choir . The large modern stained-glass windows in the transept were executed to commemo rate the promulgation of the new dogma of the immaculate concep tion of the Virgin ( 1854) , by J. F. and L. Pluys of Malines. The Choir contains handsome modern stained glass and carved stalls in the Gothic style . To the left in the retro - choir, near the N. portal , high up, is a Circumcision by M. Coxie, 1587. Farther on are a number of large pictures , chiefly by Herreyns and other painters of the early part of the present century , representing scenes from the life of St. Rombold . In the second chapel to the left the arms of the knights of the Golden Fleece , who held a chapter here in 1491. The first chapel to the right of the high -altar contains the altar of St. Engelbert, Bishop of Cologne, with a chased brazen ante pendium or frontal, executed from Minguay's designs by L. van Ryswyck of Antwerp ( 1875 ). The choir also contains several monu ments of bishops of the 17th cent . , and modern stained-glass win dows with full- length figures of saints . The Archiepiscopal Palace (Pl . 1 ; C, 2 ), picturesquely situated a little to the N. , and dating from the end of the 16th cent . , has been allowed to fall into a state of disrepair. Sr. JEAN (Pl . 6 ; C, 3) , near the Cathedral, is an insignificant church, but contains an interesting picture by Rubens, a *High -altar piece with wings , a large and fine composition, one of the best of the painter's ceremonial works . On the inside of the wings : Behead ing of John the Baptist, and Martyrdom of St. John in a cauldron of boiling oil . Outside : Baptism of Christ, and St. John in the island of Patmos , writing the Apocalypse. The two latter are in the 134 Route 14 . MALINES, From Brussels 7 > 7 best style of the master, who received 1800 forins for them. Below is a small Crucifixion , probably also by Rubens . To the left in the choir is Christ on the Cross , by Ch . Wouters, 1860. In the chapel on the left , Christ and the disciples at Emmaus , by Her reyns . The pulpit in carved wood , by Verhaeghen , represents the Good Shepherd. The confessionals, the carved wood on the organ , and several other pieces of carving are by the same sculptor . The sacristan (1 /2-1 fr.) lives in the Klapgat, adjacent to the church. The Mont de Piété , Rue des Vaches 67 and Rue St. Jean 2 (Pl. C , D, 2, 3) , formerly the house of Canon Buysleden, is an interesting Gothic building of the 16th cent. , with gables , fine arcades , and a tower of brick and limestone (1507), restored in 1875 . At the N.W. angle of the town are situated the church of St. Catharine (Pl . 5 ; C, 2) and that of the Grand Béguinage (Pl. 3 ; B , 2) , containing pictures by L. Franchoys , Moreels, De Crayer, Th. Boeyermans, E. Quellin, and others ; the latter is also embel lished with sculptures by L. Fayd'herbe and Duquesnoy. The church of St. Peter and St. Paul ( Pl . 9 ; D, 3) contains pictures by Boeyermans, Eyckens, Coxie, and others, and sculptures by Ver bruggen ( pulpit) and J. Geefs ( apostles) . The * TRIBUNAL (P1 . 25 ; D, 3 , 4 ), or court of justice, consists of a picturesque assemblage of buildings, enclosing several courts , and was formerly the palace of Margaret of Austria . The older portions were erected by Rombout Keldermans in the late - Gothic style . The more modern portion, erected by Keldermans about 1617, along with the French artist Guyot de Beaugrant ( p . 25), is the earliest example of the Renaissance in Belgium. The building was skil fully restored a few years ago , by Blomme of Antwerp, and con tains some fine chimney -pieces and other interesting works of art. On our way back to the station we may visit the church of NOTRE DAME ( Pl. 7 ; B, 4) , a late -Gothic building of the 16th cent., recently restored . A chapel behind the high- altar contains Rubens'

• Miraculous Draught of Fishes , a richly- coloured picture , with

wings , painted in 1618 for the Guild of Fishers , from whom the master received 1600 florins for the work (about 901. ) . In the 3rd chapel of the retro - choir is the Temptation of St. Anthony by M. Coxie ; high - altarpiece , a Last Supper by E. Quellin ; pulpit and statues by G. Kerricx . The sacristan will be found at No. 58 Milsenstraat, the street opposite the chief portal. The neigh bouring double - towered Porte de Bruxelles ( ' Overste Poort ; Pl. A, 4 ) is the solitary relic of the ancient fortifications. On the Quai au Sel ( Pl. B , 4) , and particularly in or near the Rue Serment du Fer, are several interesting houses of the 16th century. Among the most interesting of these are the Salm Inn, with a Renaissance façade (1530-34 ; see p . xliii) , embellished with columns and arches , and a timber house near it (No. 20) , with exquisite details in the Franco - Flemish style and also dating to Antwerp. MALINES. 14. Route. 135 from the 16th century . Between these are two other interesting old timber- houses. Throughout the whole town there still linger many picturesque relics of medieval architecture . The church of Notre Dame d'Hanswyck (Pl . 8 ; 0, 5) contains two large reliefs by L. Fayd'herbe and a pulpit by Verhaeghen. Mechlin lace , which once enjoyed a high reputation , is still manufactured here , but cannot compete with that of Brussels . From MALINES TO HEYST - OP - DEN - BERG AND TO ITEGHEM , 111/2 and 14 M., a steam -tramway plies in 11/2 and 11 /2-31/2 hrs . ( fares 1 fr. 35, 95 c . and 1 fr . 61, 1 fr . 15 c . From MALINES TO Louvain, 151/2 M., railway in 25-40 min. ( fares 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 35 , 90 c . ) . - The church of (51/2 M.) Boortmeerbeek contains an altar piece by Teniers the Younger. Then ( 11/2 M.) Haecht and (81/2 M.) Wes pelaar, with a country - seat and park mentioned by Delille ( b. 1738 ). 121/2 M. Wygmal. The line crosses the Dyle , skirts the Antwerp- Louvain Canal (made in 1750 ), and reaches Louvain ( p. 197) . From MALINES TO Ghent, 35 M., railway in 1-13/4 hr. (fares 4 fr . 45 , 3 fr . 25 , 2 fr . 20 c . ) . The line crosses the Louvain Canal and the Senne. 2 M. Hombeeck ; 51/2 M. Capelle ; _8 M. Londerzeel, the junction of the Antwerp and Alost line ( p . 11). Beyond ( 11 M.) Malderen, we quit Bra bant and enter Flanders. 121/2 M. Buggenhout; 15 M. Baesrode. 17 M. Dendermonde, and thence to ( 38 M.) Ghent, see R. 10 . FROM MALINES TO ST. NICOLAS AND TERNEUZEN , 42 M. , railway in 21/2 hrs. ( fares 5 fr . 15, 3 fr . 70, 2 fr . 55 c . ) . 2 M. Ilombeeck ; 6 M. Thisselt; 8'M. Willebroek , on a canal connecting the Senne with the Rupel, the junction of the Antwerp and Alost line (p . 11); 11 M. Puers (branch to Dendermonde, p. 62) ; 14 M. Bornhem. The train traverses a pleasant district , and crosses the broad Schelde , commanding a view of its picturesque wooded banks . To the left , on the left bank, is ( 16 M.) . Tamise, a manu facturing town with 9400 inhabitants. The church contains some inter esting works of art. 21 M. St. Nicolas , the junction for Ghent and Ant werp ( p . 63 ) ; 25 M. St. Gilles ; 27 M. La Clinge, with the Belgian custom house . — 291/2 M. Hulst, the Dutch frontier- station , possesses an interesting Gothic church of the 15th cent.; the Landshuis contains a painting by Jordaens and the Hôtel de Ville one by Corn . de Vos . 35 M. Axel ; 39 M. Sluyskill ; 42 M. Terneuzen ( see p. 10 ). Soon after quitting Malines , the train crosses the Nethe and reaches (18 M.) Duffel. To the right rises the old Gothic château of Ter - Elst. Then (201/2 M.) stat . Contich . From Contich To TURNHOUT, 261/2 M., branch -railway in 11/2 hr. - Sta tions: Lierre ( p . 157), junction for Antwerp, Diest , and Hasselt ( p. 176) ; Nylen , Bouwel, Herenthals, the junction for Roermond (p . 178) and Louvain (p. 195) ; Lichtaert, Thielen , and lastly Turnhout, the chief town of the district, with 16,100 inhab., a prosperousplace, withclothand other factories, and a leech - breeding establishment. The old Château of the Dukes of Brabant now serves as a court of justice and a prison. In the church of Oud - Turnhout is a Madonna and saints by De Crayer. Steam tramway to Antwerp, seep. 137; to Hoogstraten , p . 172. - Beyond Turn hout the line crosses the Dutch frontier to Tilburg ( see p. 375 ). Another branch-line runs from Contich to Boom , on the line from Alost to Antwerp ( p. 11 ) . From (24 M.) Oude-God ( Vieux-Dieu) a branch -line diverges to Hoboken (p. 11 ). We now pass through the new outworks around Antwerp. 261/2 M. Berchem, the headquarters of the French during the siege of the citadel in 1832. 271/2 M. Antwerp, see p . 136. 136 9

15. Antwerp.

Practical information

Railway Stations. The Principal Station (Pl. D, 3, 4), for Malines (Brussels, Louvain , etc.) , Dendermonde-Ghent, Hasselt-Maastricht, Roer monde - Gladbach , Turnhout - Tilburg , Roosendaal, Flushing , Rotterdam , and Ghent (state- line , preferable to the Waesland line) , is near the Zoo logical Garden (a new station in the Place de la Commune is projected ). The South Station ( Pl . B, 6, 7) _is used only by the trains of the Ant werp- Alost (p . 11 ) and the Lierre -Turnhout (p. 135 ) lines.— The station for the direct trains to Ghent through the Waesland (R. 10) is at the Quai St. Michel ( Pl . A, 5) , on the right bank of the Schelde ; tickets taken here include the ferry across the river . Hotels. GRAND HÔTEL (Pl. C , 4) , Rue Gérard , with lift; * GRAND LABOUREUR ( Pl. d ; C, 4 ), Place de Meir 26 ; charges at these about the same : R. 21/2-8, L. 3/4 , A. 1, B. 19/2, déj. 21 /2-31/2, D. 4.5, pens. from 10, omn. 3 /4-1 fr. ; ST. ANTOINE ( PÍ. a ; B, 4 ), Place Verte 40; HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE ( Pl . b ; B, 4), Place Verte 38 ; *HÔTEL DE LA PAIX (Pl. C ; B, 4 ), Rue des Menuisiers 9, narrow street, commercial. - Second class : * COURRIER ( Pl. h ; B, 4) , Rempart du Lombard 52 , R. & L. 21/2-4, A. 1/2 , B. 19/4, déj. 21/2, D. 3, pens. 7-10 , omn. 1 fr. ; HÔTEL DES FLANDRES (Pl. e ; B , 4 ), Place Verte 9 ; GRAND Miroir (Pl . f; B , 4) , Vieux Marché au Blé 56 & 58, R. , L. , & A. 3, B. 11/4 , déj. 2 , D. 3, pens. 8 fr ., well spoken of. HÔTEL DU COMMERCE (Pl. g ; C, 3) , Rue de la Bourse 10, R. , L. , & A , 29/2-3, B. 1 , déj. 2 , D. 21/2 , pens. 7 fr . ; GRANDE FONTAINE , Courte Rue des claires 6 (Pi. C, 3) , near the Exchange, unpretending, good German cuisine ; HÔTEL DU NORD, Grande Place 22 ; FLEUR D'Or , Ruelle des Moines 1 , near the Place Verte, unpretending. On the Schelde : HÔTEL DU Rhin , Quai Van Dyck7, with restaurant, fine view of the river, R. , L., & A. 21/2-6, B. 1 , dėj . 21/2, D. 3 ,pens. 7-121/2 , omn. 1 fr ., wellspoken of; Hôtel D’ẢNGLE TERRE , Quai Van Dyck 12 (Pl . B, 3, 4 ). In the vicinity : HÔTEL DE Hol LANDE (P1. 1 ; B, 4) , Rue de l'Etuve 2. — Near the Principal Station : PSCHORR ( Avenue De Keyzer 7) , DES TROIS SUISSES (Rue Anneessens 30 ), and several small hotels, none of which can be recommended. Restaurants. _ * Bertrand , Place de Meir_11, D. 4 fr. and upwards; Grande Tarerne Royale , Place de Meir 25, D. 4 fr. ; . * Rocher de Cancale, Rue des Douze Mois 19 , adjoining the Exchange and the Place de Meir. Taverne Crets, Rue Nationale 2 ; Hôtel de Londres and Taverne St. Jean , Avenue De Keyzer 42 and 21 ; Cheral de Bronze, Marché aux Oeufs 31 ; Wolf ( Rhine wine) , Rempart Cathérine 74; Aeckerlin, Place de Meir 13 ; Burton Tavern, Marché au Lin 2 ; * Nieuwe Loodshuis, Canal St. Pierre 16 (oysters and fish) . - Cafés. Café de l'Empereur , Place de Meir 19 ; Suisse, Place Verte 2 ; Grand Comptoir de la Bourse, corner of the Longue RueNeuve and the Rue de la Bourse . On each of the two Promenoirs (Pl. B. , 3, 4 ; p. 170) is a Café, with fine view of the Schelde. Confectioner : Patis serie Meurisse, Marché aux oeufs 50. – Beer. Taverne Alsacienne , Place Verte 3 ; Central-Bierhalle, Courte Rue Neuve 46, with a garden ; Salvator Keller, Vieux Marché au Blé 26 ; Flora , Rue Anneessens 26 ; Pschorr, see above ; Des Trois Suisses , see above ; also at the cafés ( 30-35 c . per glass ). Baths. Bain Royal, Rue Reynders 37, near the Place Verte ; Bains St. Pierre, Rue Van Noort 12, near the Park . Warm and cold baths may also be obtained in the best hotels. - Swimming Bath (Pl. B , 7) , at the corner of the Rue de Bruxelles and the Rue Bréderode, open from April 15th to October 15th (for ladies on Monday and Friday before 12 , and on Wednesday before 2 o'clock) . Post Office , Place Verte, s . side (Pl. B, 4) ; several branch - offices. Telegraph Offices at the railway- station (open at night) , exchange, etc. Public Telephones in the waiting-rooms of the tramways and in several restaurants ( use for 5 min ., 25 c .; communication with Brussels, 1 fr. ) . Cabs are stationed in the Place Verte, the Place de Meir, etc. Per drive ( la course ) within the 8 municipal districts ( with the exception of the Digue, a part of the seventh district), 1-2 pers. 1 fr. , 3-4 pers . 1 fr. 50 c .; 7 7 Rempart Chemin Por Nile dit & Duder Hobokie 200 Potter du L de Coin Rue K & Barriere Dam I 8 Rue E 8 Catherine sto rue the Boom Cimetière Kiel du * time Cible la à Tir B A par imprimé et Gravé & Vagner ) BassinAfrika ( A Amerika Bassin [ B RS 900 800 700 00 1 , Katteng du BassinOuest Quai 1 E dat R. Brésil Montevided Rhin đe Quai Ride R.d'Amsterdar Cologne ONSTER 2 Petit faisuu 2 HoogsHanse iplland s Fort Rue Sorung Peeker en R. SCH daise du Sable R.du Commerc vzotette ? WSP Rouera R. de , R. de Real Schya Wpregnem Turnhout cel deutne RosendaalAxdes ,Francais A Van Bloer B. des Brasseurs Linccius R , 00 Grein Redes Images Rue Basse BR The 19e of Terloo Rede au Borsbeeck RIOT Rat! Drossaert De Willeborde spun.410.127 P O Dresbte R. de la Loi τιις tons R. Ghysels R. Mertens pte de Tumhout ha Flord 1. d'Amsterd Verte R.du Congrés pte lerens thalls aizve que L'Agneau STR.de 3 3D sation de ul Ribe SAN11] SOP re R.SE Cu to NO3 pacuan sk Marie R.du PI Roi R.dithattenberg Carnot A utesse can Province s !Je Coins URSS du Casque Rue du Cham Van Rue G that R.Ommeganck Jardin Hausée de ThurMoowt Casse erde furnhout Zoologique Taute ulangers> R.des soutiers Se Panorama 1.21.1 du sotett skets ratec 2.d. R tinate MITS Borgert R. hout Derriere duMoulin Rx dela Couronne Hôpital s ! Joseph de! R van Dae Rade ta char Rue Navet Rides Chaus Rue Longue Rue Sterlingen Varrean Terdure Kd Vanneapo Rideala cilmen Blanchisserie Rue dut siperenstrlat e expola 4 Provin Vaneel Montens auCanal or Lietate a dela Blanchisserie cobs Canal Tanak d Herenthats Rue du Corte Louise Plantin 2407 iftat ,de Borgerhout broeck Av. Moretus Colombo Lgue Usine à Gaz s! Joseph Schoonbek Qur'se F.d.TALA Rud Dragon E200 harlotte rcato PS2 Teate Turenberg Moutons R.d.tAigle arU6 Chters Boduignat dway R. des Nerviers vaa 5 Rtte duChariot Bloguez 120LL Trongube RS Isabel Longue r.XÁrgie ptes ( Fortin de Berchem de Borsbeek Rent Av .Marie Station Race du de Berchem de R.2.2 Société due de For Orphedinat Mes ) Chate aw 10 ይ Tetry R.A.Grisar et Rue des Grands R.Jos a von . Ba 6 Prode Rinstra dw tanger Ta Xe amps Rue ימימה Ren Chaussée R. Vaerenberg de Be zmirdes Thevallier's Cruke Vary RariQuerette R. de ta cques sstand Rue des Bous B ol R. were R.S. Lambert Ede Leopold ? ne R. symul kauli ebrord berté trois R. US Pemin si Jacques Malines Hase Turnhout Kue Parle de Berchem ANTWERP. 15. Route. 137 between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m., 2 fr . or 2 fr. 50 c.; within the new forti fications, 1-4 pers . 1 fr . 50 or 2 fr . 50 c . Open Vehicles, a degree better within the town 1-4 pers. 1 fr. 50 or 2 fr . 50 c. ; within the fortifications, 2 or 3 fr . By time ( à l'heure ), first hour 1-4 pers., 1 fr. 50 or 2 fr. 50'C., each additional 1/2 hr. 75 c . or 1 fr. 25 c.; within the new fortifications 2 fr. or 3 fr ., each additional 1/2 hr. 1 fr. or 1 fr. 50 c .; open cabs 2 fr . 50 3 fr. , and 1 fr. or 1 fr. 50 c . ; within the fortifications 2 fr. 50 or 3 fr. , and 1 fr . or 1 fr . 50 . Each trunk 20 c . - Two- horse vehicles one- half more . Tramways (comp. the Plan ; fares 10-25 c. ) . 1. From the Wharf (Quai van Dyck ; Pl. B , 3) , skirting the Place Verte and following the Place de Meir, to the Principal Station (Pl. D , 3, 4) , and then by the Boulevard Léopold to the Dryhoek ( Trois Coins), near the Pépinière (Pl. D , 6) . 2. From the Harbour (Entrepôt Royal ; Pl. C, 2) through the Avenues du Commerce, des Arts, de l'Industrie , and du Sud. - A branch - line diverges from the Avenue de l'Industrie to the ferry for the Waesland Station (Pl . A, 5 ). 3. From the Place St. Paul (Pl. B, 3) through the Canal des Récollets, Rue des Tanneurs, Rue de l'ziôpital, and Chaussée de Malines to the Porte de Malines (Pl. E, 7) . 4. " Tramway du Sud d'Anvers' from the Place Verte (Pl. B, 4) through the Rue des Peignes, the Rue Gérard, the Avenue du Sud , and the Rue Mon tigny to Kiel and Hoboken ( p . 11) . 5. From the Place du Peuple (Pl. B , 5) viâ the Rue Nationale to the Rue des Peignes. 6. From the Rue Kipdorp ( P1 , B, C , 3) to the Porte de Turnhout ( Pl. F, 3 ). 7. From the Place de Meir ( Pl. C , 4) through the Rue des Tanneurs, Rue Léopold , and the Longue Rue d'Argile to the end of the latter ( Pl . E, 5) . 8. " Tramway du Nord d'Anvers' from the Rue Klapdorp (Pl . B , 3) " by the Marché aux Chevaux and the Rue Viaduc (Pl . D , 1) to Merxem . 9. " Tramway Maritime' from the S. Harbour along the bank of the Schelde to the N. harbour , viâ the Rue des Otages ( Pl. A , 6 ), Quai Fla mand, Quai St. Michel , Quai Plantin , Quai Van Dyck, Quai Jordaens, Canal des Brasseurs , Place de l'Entrepôt, Avenue du Commerce, Rue Vondel, and Rue Basse to the Rue Pothoek (Pl. E, 2) . 10. Steam Tramway from Zurenborg station (Pl. F, 5) to Turnhout (p. 135 ) and Hoogstraten (p . 112). The station at Zurenborg may be conveniently reached by the tramway -line No. 6, and the Porte de Turnhout, where the steam- tramway stops, by the line No. 5. 11. Steam Tramway from Klapdorp station ( Pl . B , 3) viâ Merxem, Santvliet, and Lillo, to Bergen -op -Zoom ( p. 246 ). 12. Steam Tramway from Klapdorp station (Pl . B , 3) viâ Merxem to Brasschaet (p. 172) and Schooten . Omnibus from the station of the Waesland line (Pl. A, 5 ) viâ the Rue Haute, Grand' Place, Place de la Commune, the Principal Station , 200 logical Garden , Rue Ommeganck, and Rue de la Province to Zurenborg station ( Pl. F, 5 ). Steamboats . To and from London : vessels of the Gen. Steam Nav. Co. ( fares 16s. , 11s . ) 2-3 times, and the Baron Osy (fares 20s., 12s . ) once weekly ; average passage 18 hrs . To Harwich by the vessels of the Great Eastern Railway. Co. six times weekly in 11-13 hrs., thence by railway to London in 13/4 hrs. (fares to London 26s . , 15s .). Το Hull twice weekly in 22 hrs. _ (fares 15s . , 10s. ). To Glasgow once weekly (fares 258. , 15s. ) . To Goole twice weekly in 24 hrs. ( fare 15s . ). To Grimsby every Wed. and Sat. in 30 hrs . ( fare 15s . ) . To Newcastle once weekly in 30 hrs. (fares 22s. 6d . , 11s . 6d .). To Leith once weekly in 48 hrs . ( fare 458.). - To Hamburg once weekly in 35 hrs . ( fares 40 fr ., 35 fr . ). To Dublin and Belfast once a fortnight (fare 158. ). To Liverpool once weekly. To Rotterdam , see p. 173. – Small steamers ply about every 1/4 hr, in summer from the Grand Bassin (next the Maison Hanséatique, Pl. B. 2 ; p. 171) through the Bassins du Kattendyk, Africa, and America ( 35 c. ; interesting trip ). – A pleasant steamboat trip on the 7 138 Route 15. ANTWERP. Theatres. Schelde may be made to Rupelmonde, Boom ( railway also to this point, 10 M. į comp. p. 135) , and Temsche, starting from the lower end of the Quai Van Dyck ( Pl. B , 3) ; return - fare 11/2 or 1 fr. Theatres. Théâtre Royal (Pl. C , 4 ; p. 153) , performances in French , four times a week in winter. Flemish Theatre, or Schouwburg (Pl. C , 3 ; p. 152) , performances in Flemish . - Théâtre des Variétés (Pl . C, 5) , per formances in French , German , and Flemish . The Scala , Rue Annees sens 28 , and the Palais Indien , Avenue De Keyzer 3, are cafés chantants. Music . In summer, if theweather is favourable, bands perform in the Park (p . 168 ) on Sunday at 4 and on Tuesday at 8 p.m.; in the Pépinière (p. 169) on Monday and Friday, 8-10 p.m .; in the Place Verte (p. 141) on Wednesday and Saturday, 8-10 p.m .; and in the Place St. Jean ( Pl. C, 2) on Monday and Thursday, 8-10 p.m. Panorama. Battle of Worth , by Alfred Cluysenaar , in the Zoological Garden ( Pl . D , 4) , entrance on Sun. by the Rue de la Charrue. Adm. on Sun. 50 c ., on Mon. 1 fr. , other days 2 fr . British Consul, G. R. Perry, Esq ., Consul General. United States Consul, John H.Steuart Esq.; deputy - consul, F. von Wrede, Esq. English Church in the Rue des Tanneurs ; services at 11 and 7. Shops. BOOKSELLERS. M. Kornicker, Place de Meir 87; 0. Forst, Place de Meir 69 ; Böltink & Ackermann, Place Verte 20 . PHOTOGRAPHS. 0.Forst, see above ; Zazzarini & Co., Marché aux Souliers 37; Ed. van Mol, Marché aux Souliers 17 ; Thirion, Place Verte 17, adjoining the cathedral. LACE. J. Diegerick, Place Verte 6. Principal Attractions : * Cathedral ( p . 141) , * Museum ( p . 156 ), Hôtel de Ville (p. 146) , St. Jacques (p. 150) , * Musée Plantin ( p. 154 ) , Docks (p . 171 ) , Zoological Garden ( p . 109) .

Portrait

Antwerp, French Anvers , Spanish Ambéres, with 260,429 in habitants (1889 ; suburb of Borgerhout 28,731 , Berchem 11,575) , one of the greatest seaports of Europe , serving as an outlet for the commerce of Germany as well as of Belgium , was once the capital of a margraviate, belonging to the Duchy of Brabant, and was founded as early as the 7th century . In 837 the town was destroyed by the Northmen . The most celebrated margrave of Antwerp was Godfrey de Bouillon. Its advantageous situation on the Schelde ( Escaut), which is here 1/3 M. broad and 30 ft. deep at high tide ( 60 M. from the sea), rendered Antwerp a very important and wealthy place in the Middle Ages. Commerce, which luxury and revolution had banished from other Flemish towns, especially Bruges , sought refuge here about the close of the 15th century. Under Emp. Charles V. Antwerp was perhaps the most prosperous and wealthy city on the continent, surpass ing even Venice itself. When at the height of its prosperity it numbered 125,000 inhab . (in 1568) . At that period thousands of vessels are said to have lain in the Schelde at one time, while a hundred or more arrived and departed daily . The great fairs held here attracted merchants from all parts of the civilised world .

The Florentine Guicciardini, an excellent authority in these matters (p . xiii ) , records that in 1566 the spices and sugar imported from Portugal were valued at 11/2 million ducats ( 750,0001., an enormous sum according to the value of money at that period) , silk and gold wares from Italy 3 million , grain from the Baltic 11/2 million , French and German wines 21/2 million , and imports from England 12 million ducats . Upwards of a thousand foreign commercial firms had established themselves at Antwerp, and one of the Fuggers, the merchant-princes of Augsburg, died here leaving a fortune of 2 million ducats. The Flemish manufactures (carpets, clothing stuffs, gold and silver wares) also enjoyed a high reputation after the beginning of the 16th cent . , and were exported from Antwerp to Arabia, Persia, and India .

Antwerp's decline began during the Spanish régime. The terrors of the Inquisition banished thousands of the industrious citizens, many of whom sought refuge in England, where they established silk-factories, and contributed greatly to stimulate English commerce. Fearful havoc was committed by the cruel Spanish soldiery in 1576, when the city was unscrupulously pillaged, and lost 7000 of its inhabitants by fire and sword ; it afterwards suffered severely during a siege of fourteen months followed by its capture by Duke Alexander of Parma in 1585, when the population was reduced to 85,000 ; and in 1589 the population had further dwindled to 55,000. In addition to these disasters, the citizens were deprived of the greater part of their commerce by the intrigues of their Dutch rivals, who during the siege of the city by the Duke of Parma used secret means to prevent assistance being rendered to the besieged, and afterwards erected forts at the mouth of the Schelde to prevent its navigation by Antwerp vessels . The maritime trade of the city received its death-blow from the Treaty of Münster in 1648, by which Holland was declared independent of Spain, and it was agreed that no sea-going vessel should be permitted to ascend to Antwerp, but should unload at a Dutch port, whence merchandise should be forwarded to Antwerp by river-barges only.

In 1790 the population had dwindled down to 40,000 souls . In Aug. 1794, the French obtained possession of Antwerp, re-opened the navigation of the Schelde , and dismantled the forts erected by the Dutch at its embouchure. Napoleon , who recognised the strategical importance of the situation of Antwerp, caused a harbour and new quays to be constructed , but the wars in which he was engaged prevented him from actively promoting the interests of commerce.

In 1814 the city was defended against the Allies by Carnot , but was surrendered to the British under Gen. Graham , and afterwards incorporated with the newly-constituted kingdom of the Nether lands . The prosperity of Antwerp received a new impetus from the trade which it now carried on with the Dutch colonies (in 1830 population 73,506) , but it was again utterly ruined by the revolution of 1830, in which the citizens participated sorely against their will, and which diverted its trade to Rotterdam and Amsterdam . In 1830 the town was occupied by the Belgian insurgents and was bombarded from the citadel by the Dutch general Chassé, who in his turn was besieged here by the French for twenty - four days in 1832. At the end of this siege the unfortunate town presented a scene of frightful desolation , and it was many years before Antwerp began to recover from these calamities.

Indeed the tide of prosperity did not again set in fully till 1863, when the right of levying navigation - dues on the Schelde , granted to Holland by the peace of 1839, was commuted for a sum of 36,000,000 fr., one third paid by Belgium and the rest by the other powers interested. Since that date , however, its commerce has increased in a greater ratio than that of any other European seaport, the increase being due chiefly to the great augmentation of the steamer - traffic. In 1840-49 the port was entered annually by 1544 ships of 242,468 tons' burden ; in 1850-59 , by 1830 ships of 367,487 tons; in 1860 69, by 2957 ships of 822,533 tons ; in 1870-78, by 4510 ships of 2,083,516 tons ; in 1889, by 4379 ships of 4,050,706 tons (3608 steamers, 771 sailing -ships). In 1864 the value of the imports was 410 million francs ; in 1884 it was about 1122million francs ; within the same period the value of the exports rose from 159 million to 433 million francs , and that of the transit - trade from 76 million to 281 million francs , in spite of the competition of Dutch ports. Antwerp is the principal arsenal of the kingdom of Belgium, and one of the strongest fortresses in Europe. Since 1859 a num ber of advanced works have been constructed on modern principles , and the city and river are defended by broad and massive ramparts upwards of 81/2 M. in length . Antwerp is intended to serve as the rendezvous of the Belgian army, should it be compelled , in case of the violation of the neutrality of the country, to retire before an enemy of superior force. It is calculated that it would require an army of 170,000 men to besiege it effectually, and at least a year to reduce it by starvation. The removal of the old ramparts has allowed the town to expand to six times its former size (now nearly 7 sq . M. ). Antwerp is the most interesting town in Belgium, and, the population being predominantly Flemish , it resembles a Dutch or a German city in many of its characteristics. The numerous master pieces of painting which it possesses afford one of the best proofs of its mediæval prosperity . The fascinating influence of Rubens (see Introd . ) cannot be appreciated without a visit to Antwerp, where his finest works are preserved.

In our own times Antwerp has made a vigorous effort to regain the artistic pre- eminence which it so gloriously asserted during the 17th century . The modern revival of art , which began about the end of the first quarter of the present century, took its rise in Antwerp. Van Brée, Braekeleer, and others, who trod in the wont ed paths of academic art, were succeeded by revolutionaries, whose works clearly betrayed their connection with the political agitation for the separation of Belgium from Holland. But this predominance of patriotic themes was transitory ; and a more important and more lasting effort was next made to resuscitate the ancient national style of art , and to revive a just appreciation of Rubens and his contemporaries. Gustav Wappers (1803-74) was the first to break ground with his ‘ Burgomaster Van der Werff during the siege of Leyden' , which , when exhibited in 1830, was received with great applause and awakened much imitation. Nicaise de Keyser (1813-80), whose battle -pieces are marked by great liveliness and freshness of colour, adopted a similar style . The Academy of Antwerp, which has been presided over by each of these masters in turn, deserves the credit of reviving in modern art- education the careful study of technique, and especially of colouring. Neither Wappers nor Keyser, however, has shown so much zeal in reverting to the early Flemish style of art as Hendrik Leys (1815-69), the founder of the so-called “ archaic school' , who not only gave the preference to the subjects used in the 15th and 16th centuries, but has designed, painted, and grouped in precisely the same style as the painters of that epoch . The figures in the much - valued pictures by this master seem as if they had stepped out of ancient canvasses. The Dutch painter Alma Tadema (settled in London), who pursues the archaic style with such distinguished success, was a pupil of Leys.

Among the other eminent modern artists of Antwerp may be mentioned Van Lerius ( 1823-76 ), Dyckmans (1811-88), Jacobs, Stobbaerts, Verlat (1825-90), and Van Beers.

The traveller, especially if pressed for time, should at once direct his steps to the Cathedral . On its S. side is the Place VERTE (Pl. B, 4 ), formerly the churchyard , adorned with a Statue of Rubens, in bronze, by W. Geefs. It was erected in 1840, the figure being 13 ft ., the pedestal 20 ft. in height . The scrolls and books , together with the brush , palette , and hat, which lie at the feet of the statue , are allusions to the pursuits of the master as a diplomatist and statesman , as well as a painter . - A military band plays in the Place Verte twice a week on summer -evenings from 8 to 10 o'clock (p . 138) . The * Cathedral ( Notre Dame ; Pl . B, 3) , the largest and most beautiful Gothic church in the Netherlands, is of cruciform shape with triple aisles . It was begun in 1352 under the superinten dence of Jean Amel or Appelmans of Boulogne . After his death in 1398 the work was continued by his son Peter, who was suc ceeded by Jean Tac in 1434 and Master Everaert in 1449. To this period (1352-1449) belong the choir with its ambulatory and chapels , the sacristies, and the tower up to the first gallery. The S. aisles were built in 1425-72, the N. aisles in 1472-1500. From 1502 to 1518 the building operations were directed by Herman van Waghe makere and his son Dominic, the chief evidence of whose skill is the upper part of the N. tower, in the Flamboyant style . The S. tower was left unfinished in 1474. The nave and aisles were not vaulted till 1611-16 . The rich portal and the fine window over it , adorned with tracery , should be examined. In 1566 the church was seriously damaged by puritanical zealots, and again in 1794 by 142 Route 15 . ANTWERP Cathedral. 1 . French republicans . The exterior is unfortunately somewhat dis figured by the mean houses clustered around it, but those near the principal façade have been removed . The restoration of the edi fice was superintended by Fr. Durlet of Antwerp ( d . 1867).

• INTERIOR. [ The church is usually entered from the Place Verte by the narrow lane on the S. side , at the end of which, on the right,

opposite the S. portal, is the house of theconcierge (No. 19), where tickets are obtained . Visitors ring. Guide quite superfluous. The principal pictures are shown , except during Lent, gratis on Sun, and Thurs. 8-12; on other days 12-4 p.m. , admission 1 fr .] Internally the church is simple, but grand and impressive, and the rich per spective of its six aisles is very effective. Its length is 128 yds.; width of nave 57 yds. , of transept, 74 yds.; height 130 ft. Its area amounts to 70,060 sq . ft. (that of Cologne Cathedral is 87,000 , St. Paul's in London 109,000, St. Peter's at Rome 212,000 sq. ft . ). The vaulting is supported by 125 pillars . The level of the pavement has been several times raised . The S. TRANSEPT , entered from the Place Verte , contains Rubens's far - famed masterpiece, the **Descent from the Cross , a winged picture , painted in 1612 (in Paris from 1794 to 1814 ; restored in 1852). On the inside of the wings are the Salutation, and the Presentation in the Temple, on the outside St. Christopher carrying the Infant Saviour, and a hermit. The Mary in a blue robe and the figure with a basket in the wings are portraits of the master's first wife and his daughter respectively . In the N. transept is Rubens's *Elevation of the Cross, painted in 1610, soon after his return from a residence of eight years in Italy (also in Paris from 1794 to 1814 ). The DESCENT FROM THE Cross is the most magnificent of these cel ebrated pictures . The white linen on which the body of the Saviour lies is apeculiar and very effective feature in the composition, borrowed pro bably from a similar work by Daniele da Volterra at Rome. The principal figure itself is admirably conceived and carefully drawn, and the attitude extremely expressive of the utter inertness of a dead body. Two of the three Maries are more attractive than is usual with Rubens's female figures , but the flabby countenance of Joseph of Arimathæa exhibits neither sen timent nor emotion . The arrangement of the whole is most masterly and judicious , the figures not too ponderous, and the colouring rich and har monious , while a degree of sentiment is not wanting, so that this work is well calculated to exhibit Rubens's wonderful genius in the most favourable light . According to a well- known anecdote, this picture, when in an un finished state , fell from the easel in Rubens's absence. Van Dyck, as the most skilful of his pupils, was chosen to repair the damage, which he did so suc cessfully, that Rubens on his return declared that his pupil's work sur passed his own. The parts thus said to have been retouched are the face of the Virgin and the arm of the Magdalene. The popular story with regard to the origin of this famous picture is another of those picturesque fictions which modern investigation has so rudely dispelled . Rubens is said to have been employed by theGuild of Arquebusiers to paint an altarpiece representing their patron saint ‘ St.Chris tophorus' ( i.e. the bearer of Christ'), as the price of which hewas to re ceive a piece of ground from them as a site for his house. Instead of ful. filling the contract literally by painting a single picture of St. Christopher, > Cathedral. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 143 Rubens generously determined to produce a far more noble work by repre senting the bearing of Christ' allegorically , viz. in the principal picture Christ borne by his friends, in one wing by his Virgin mother before the Nativity, and in the other by the aged Simeon in the Temple. The picture was finished and shown to the Arquebusiers, who could not fail to be grati fied by its magnificence ; but the allegorical mode of its execution was entirely lost upon them , and they complained that there was no St. Chris topher. In order to satisfy them, Rubens then proceeded to paint St. Chris topher in person on the outside of one shutter, while on the other he represented a hermit with a lantern, and an owl, emblematical , it was said , of the obtuseness of the worthy Arquebusiers. The facts of the case, however, were simply these. A dispute having arisen about the cost of a wall which separated Rubens's property from that of the Arquebusiers, the burgomaster Rockox , the captain of the guild and a friend of Rubens, persuaded him to paint this picture in order to equalise the price to be paid by each party. The hermit and the owl are well- known features in every picture relating to the legend of St. Christopher. The ELEVATION OF THE Cross , although inferior, is also a magni ficent work . The figures are remarkable for their easy and natural atti tudes, although inclined to be too heavy. The great life which pervades the whole, and the variety of the composition , compensate to some extent for deficiency of sentiment. In the figures of Christ and his executioners, the master displays his thorough acquaintance with the anatomy of the human frame. The horses are noble and lifelike, and a dog has even been introduced to give greater diversity to the scene . The latter was added by Rubens in 1627 , when he retouched the picture. The wings form part of the same subject. On the right is a group of women and children, with horror depicted in their countenances, behind them are the Virgin and St. John ; on the left, mounted officers , behind them the thieves, who are being nailed to their crosses by the executioners. CHOIR. The high-altarpiece is an *Assumption by Rubens, said to have been painted in sixteen days, doubtless with the aid of his pupils , for the sum of 1600 florins. This picture , though less attractive than the two above mentioned , exhibits the transcendent genius of the master in an almost equal degree and ranks with the Assumption in the Belvedere at Vienna as one of the best of the ten canvasses Rubens devoted to this subject. The Virgin is repre sented among the clouds , surrounded by a heavenly choir, below whom are the apostles and numerous other figures. The colouring is less gorgeous than is usual in Rubens's pictures. The high-altar dates from 1824. — The modern Stalls and the rich Gothic Episcopal Thrones, in the form of tabernacles, carved in wood, are adorned with groups from the life of the Virgin on the S. side and from that of the Saviour on the N. side , and with numerous small statues, which are admirably designed and beautifully executed . The archi tectural portions are by W. Durlet, the plastic by Ch. Geerts (p . 79) . The other works of art in the cathedral are all very inferior in interest to the three pictures by Rubens . As their position is frequently altered , the following description cannot claim to be permanently accurate. We begin to the S., near the Descent from the Cross, in the RETRO - CHOIR. 1st Chapel (on the S. ) : modern stained glass, by Didron of Paris ( 1872), representing the Mourning over the body of Christ. 2nd Chapel : Rubens,7 the Resurrection ,> painted for 144 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Cathedral. the tomb of his friend the printer Moretus (see p. 154 ; portrait above ), half life - size; on the inside of the shutters John the Bap tist and St. Martina, on the outside angels . The best view of the Assumption is obtained from this chapel. 3rd Chapel : Artus Quellin the Younger, Marble monument of Bishop Ambrosius Ca pello , the only monument of a bishop in the church which has escaped destruction . Interesting altarpiece by a Cologne master of the 14th cent. , representing St. Michael and the dragon with angels and saints. 4th Chapel : De Backer, Last Judgment, with por traits of the Plantin family (generally covered ); beneath it the tombstone of Plantin , a celebrated printer (d . 1589; see p. 154), with inscription by Justus Lipsius . 5th Chapel : Modern stained glass by J. Béthune. Adjacent, a carved confessional by P. Ver bruggen (d . 1686), of whose workmanship there are other similar specimens in the church. - 6th Chapel : Modern stained glass by Béthune ; mural decoration in the 15th cent. style by J. Baetens, a pupil of Leys ; Mater Dolorosa by A. Quellin ( d. 1700). — At the back of the high-altar, the Dying Mary, a large picture by Matthys sens ( 17th cent.). Below it , the Marriage of the Virgin , the An nunciation, and the Visitation, painted in grisaille with great skill by Van Brée in imitation of half- relief. In front of it , Tomb of Isabella of Bourbon (d . 1456) , wife of Charles the Bold, a re cumbent figure in bronze. 7th Chapel : Otho Vaenius, Entomb ment ; Luc. de Heere, Descent from the Cross ; modern stained glass . 8th Chapel, recently restored : To the right a somewhat altered replica of Rubens's Christ à la paille (p . 161 ) ; stained glass of 1648 representing the arms of the Guild of St. Luke, to which this chapel belonged. 9th Chapel : Modern carved altar with poly chrome ornamentation in the mediæval style , executed by J. de Bock and J. de Wint from the design of Jos. Schadde, with scenes from the life of St. Joseph , to whom this chapel is dedicated . Paintings by L. Hendricks : Philip IV. dedicating Belgium to St. Joseph, Pius IX. appointing Joseph patron-saint of the Roman Catholic church in Belgium. Winged altarpieces by Arn. Mytens the Elder (Crucifixion , Journey and Adoration of the Magi) and Corn. de Vos the Elder (Descent from the Cross). The calling of St. Joseph and the Marriage of Joseph and the Virgin belong to the school of Roger van der Weyden. Stained glass from designs by A. Stalins and A. Janssens, representing the tree of Jesse . Con fessionals with large statues , carved in wood by Verbruggen . Altar piece , a Madonna and Child , after Van Dyck. 10th Chapel : Crucifix in Parian marble by Van der Neer. 11th Chapel : Large winged altar-piece (modern) in carved wood. - 12th Chapel ( a large one, adjoining the last): A. Quellin , Statue of St. Anthony; stained glass of 1503, commemorating a commercial treaty between Henry VII. of England and Philip I. of Castile. TRANSEPT. Rubens's pictures, described on pp. 142, 143. Farther - Cathedral. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 145 on , in the N. Transept : Stained glass of 1615 and 1616 (that above the portal portraying Archduke Albert and his consort Isabella , God frey de Bouillon founding the Order of the Canons of St. Michael, etc. ) , restored in 1866. On the right , Francken the Elder, Christ and the Doctors, among whom are portraits of Luther, Calvin, and Erasmus ; on the wings , church - fathers. S. TRANSEPT : Large stained-glass window by Capronnier, Old and New Testament saints ; on the right , Murillo (?) , St. Francis ; on the left, M. de Vos , Mar riage at Cana ; 0. Vaenius, Last Supper. The dome above the intersection of the nave and transept was constructed by Dom. van Waghemakere in 1533 ; it is adorned with an Assumption by Corn. Schut (1647) . The Nave and aisles contain some ancient and modern Stained glass Windows, the former dating from the 16th and 17th cent. , but to a great extent restored , the latter executed by Capronnier in the old style . The Pulpit, with its trees , shrubs, and birds carved in wood, is by Van der Voort (1713) . The Lady Chapel in the N. aisle contains a white marble altar, constructed in 1825 in exact imitation of an altar by Art . Quellin the Younger and P. Verbruggen the Elder, which had been destroyed in 1798. The four reliefs, representing the Annunciation , Visitation , Presentation in the Temple, and Assumption , are the original ones by Quellin. The stained glass , referring to the worship of the Virgin , was presented by King Leopold II. The much - belauded head of Christ on white marble , on the pillar to the right of the altar , is ascribed to Da Vinci , but is really the work of a Fle mish artist, name unknown . In the S. aisle , the Passion in 14 scenes, painted in the med ieval style by Vinck and Hendricks, pupils of Leys, in 1865-67. Another painting , by Corn . Schut, represents the Holy Ghost surrounded by angels . The Chapel of the Sacrament, at the E. end of the aisle, contains an altar of the beginning of the century , Christ at Emmaus , by Herreyns ( 1825) , and a tabernacle by Ver bruggen . The subjects of the stained glass are : Last Supper, by Rombouts , executed 1503 and restored in 1872 ; St. Amandus preaching Christianity at Antwerp, St. Norbert restoring the Roman Catholic form of worship at Antwerp, both by Didron ; John the Bap tist and John the Evangelist, of the 15th century . -The Chapelle des Mariages contains stained glass by Van Diepenbeeck, 1635. The altarpiece is a Holy Family by H. van Balen, in a landscape by J. Brueghel. The statue of the Virgin is by A. Quellin the Elder. Musical works by the most celebrated composers are performed at high mass (10 a.m. ) on Sundays and festivals ( chair 5 c. ) . The * TOWER (402 ft . ), a beautiful and elaborate open structure, was begun by Jean Amel or his son ( comp. p. 141), and completed by Dom. van Waghemakere, whose name is inscribed on BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. a 10 146 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Hôtel de Ville . the highest gallery. The S. tower has only attained one - third of the projected height . Charles V. used to say that this elegant specimen of Gothic architecture ought to be preserved in a case, and Napoleon is said to have compared it to a piece of Mechlin lace . The entrance to the tower is adjacent to the W. portal . The crucifix over the door was cast in 1635 with the metal of a statue formerly erected in the citadel by Philip II . , ' ex aere captivo ', to the Duke of Alva. The concierge, who lives near, at Rue des Pèlerins 14 (Pl. B, 3, 4), is generally on the spot ( fee for 1 person 75 C. , for 2 persons 1 fr ., for each additional person 25 c .). The ascent is fatiguing ; 514 steps lead to the first gallery , and 102 more to the second and highest. The spire at the top of the tower perhaps dates from 1592. The view from the second gallery is more extensive than that from the lower. With the aid of a good telescope , the spectator may in clear weather follow the course of the Schelde as far as Flushing, and distinguish the towers of Bergen op - Zoom , Breda , Brussels, Malines , and Ghent. The Chimes are among the most complete in Belgium , consisting of 99 bells , the smallest of which is only 15 inches in circumference; the largest, cast in 1507, weighs 8 tons . On the occasion of its consecration, Charles V. stood 'godfather'. An old Well, adjacent to the principal portal, and opposite the door of the tower , is protected by a canopy of iron , and surmounted by a statue of Salvius Brabo (see p. 147). It was executed by Quinten Massys (d . 1529), ' in synen tyd grofsmidt, en daernaer famues schil der? ( ‘ at one time a blacksmith , afterwards a famous painter' ), ac cording to the inscription on his tombstone adjoining the entrance to the tower of the Cathedral . ( The original tombstone, of which this is a copy, is in the old Museum ; p . 148. ) This remarkable and talented man was originally a blacksmith from Louvain , who came to seek his fortune at Antwerp , where this work is one of the specimens of his skill . Here, according to the romantic but apocryphal story (comp. p . 163) , he became enamoured of the daughter of a painter, and to propitiate the father and win the daughter he exchanged the anvil for the palette . He wooed and painted successfully, and was chiefly instrumental in raising the School of Antwerp to a celebrity equal to that of Bruges and Ghent. He was one of the first Flemish masters who adopted the showy and effective style of the Italian schools, while his execution was hardly less elaborate and faithful to nature than that of his predecessors. His masterpiece is preserved in the Museum ( p. 164) . A slab im mured at the above- mentioned spot in 1629 by his ' grateful and admiring posterity' , bears the inscription , Connubialis amor de Mulcibre fecit Apellem' . The *Hôtel de Ville, situated in the GRAND PLACE (Pl. B, 3), in the vicinity , towards the N. of the cathedral , was erected in 1561-65 in the Renaissance style by Cornelis de Vriendt, and restored in its present form in 1581 , after its partial destruction by the Spaniards . The plain façade, 93 yds. in length and 125 ft. in height, rises over a rusticated ground - floor, with ar cades in two principal stories (Doric and Ionic), resting on massive pillars . Above these is a colonnade which supports the roof. The 7 2 Hôtel de Ville . ANTWERP. 15. Route. 147 central part , with its circular arched windows , rises in three ad ditional stories, diminishing in size as they ascend , to a height of 180 ft. In a niche above stands the Virgin as the tutelary saint of the city, a figure placed here in 1585 ; below this, on the right and left, are allegorical figures of Wisdom and Justice. The *Interior, which should be visited in the morning (no adm . after 12 noon on Mon.; concierge 1 fr.; entr. by the main façade beside the letter box) , has since 1882 been undergoing a thorough restoration from designs of M. . Dens. The STAIRCASE is lavishly decorated with coloured Belgian marble, and the glass roof is supported by carved wooden Caryatides, repre senting different branches of industry. On the walls are views of Antwerp in the 16-17th centuries. The finest of the rooms, all of which are em bellished with carved wooden panelling, is the great hall, or SALLE LEYS, decorated with a series of admirably executed paintings by H. Leys ( 1814-69) . - 1. ( to the left of the entrance ), Solemn entry of Charles V., who swears to respect the privileges of the city, 1514 ; 2. ( farther to the right, on the principal wall), The Burgomaster as head of the military forceg of the town , or the Burgomaster Van Ursele entrusting the magistrate Van Spangen with the command of the municipal guard for the defence of the city, 1542 ; 3. Municipal rights, or the rights of citizenship conferred on Batt . Palavicini of Genoa ; 4. The Burgomaster as civil chief of the town, or Margaret of Parma committing the keys of the city to the burgo master during the troubles of 1567. Also portraits of twelve princes celebrated in the annals of the country, from Godfrey de Bouillon ( 1096) to Philippe le Bel ( 1491 ) , most of whom granted privileges to the town. The architectural construction of the room , closely resembling the best Italian Renaissance style, is also noteworthy. The ceiling bears the arms of the city and oftheguilds. The apartment of the burgomaster contains a Chimney-piece, finely sculptured in the Renaissance style, from the old Abbey of Tongerloo (p . 176 ), representing the Marriage of Cana, above which are the Raising of the Serpent, and Abraham's Sacrifice. There are also a few modern pictures. - The SALLE DU CONSEIL COMMUNAL con tains ceiling-paintings of the School of Rubens ( Pellegrini), a Judgment of Solomon by Floris, life- size portraits of the royal family by De Keyser and Wappers, and an elaborately carved wooden balustrade of the 16th cent., said by tradition to be the work of a prisoner of the Inquisition . In the SALLE DES MARIAGES, completed in 1885, are a Renaissance chimney - piece of the 16th cent. , in black and white marble , and frescoes by Lagaye. The space in front of the Hôtel de Ville is the best point for a view of the cathedral . A bronze Fountain was erected in 1887 in the Grand' Place, surmounted by a statue of Salvius Brabo, a mythi cal hero who defeated and cut off the hand of the giant Antigonus . The giant used to exact a heavy toll from vessels entering the Schelde,and ruthlessly cut off and threw into the river a hand of every shipmaster who refused to pay. Hence, says the legend , the name of the town (-Antwerp', from ' hand werpen ’; werpen = to throw ). Most of the houses in the Grand' Place are Guild Houses, formerly belonging to the different corporations , and dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. The most conspicuous are , on the N. , the Guild Hall of the Archers (No. 17), of 1513 , and the Hall of the Coopers (No. 15 ), of 1579 ; on the S.E. , the House of the Tailors ( No. 36) , rebuilt after the pillage of the town by the Spaniards in 1644 ; and the Hall of the Carpenters ( No. 40), 1646. The quaint and narrow Rue des Orfèvres leads W. from the market-place to the Schelde in a few minutes (Promenoirs , see p. 170) . > 10 * 148 Route 15 . ANTWERP. St. Paul's Church . > A few streets to the N. of the Hôtel de Ville are the Vieilles Boucheries (Pl . B , 3), or old flesh -market, a lofty, late - Gothic edifice constructed in 1501-3 of regular courses of red bricks and white stone , with four hexagonal turrets at the corners . It is used as a warehouse. In the Rue Zick , to the N. , are some 15th cent. houses ; and the neighbouring Rue aux Fromages and Rue des Ton neliers also contain traces of ancient Antwerp. In the vicinity rises the Church of St. Paul ( P1 B , 3) , in the late- Gothic style , which formerly belonged to the adjoining Dominican monastery . It was erected in 1540-71 , but the choir was not completed until after 1621. Entrance in the Rue des Sæurs Noires (adm. in the middle of the day ; knock, fee 1 fr. ). The wall of the N. AISLE of the church is adorned with fifteen pictures : Van Balen, Annunciation ; J. Francken , Visitation ; M. de Vos, Nativity and Purification of Mary'; Scourging of Christ, after Rubens ; Van Dyck, Bearing the Cross ; Rubéns, Adoration of the ľagi ; Jordaens, Crucifixion ; Vinckboons, Resurrection. TRANSEPT : De Crayer , Virgin and St. Dominic ; " Rubens, Scourging of Christ (covered ); at the altar, after Caravaggio, the Virgin giving rosaries to St. Dominic for distri bution ( the original was sent to Vienna as a gift to the Emp. Joseph , who sent this copy as a substitute ) . Choir . High -altarpiece , Cels, Descent from the Cross, a work of the beginning of the present century ; at the side, tombs of Henry van Varick , Margrave of Antwerp (d. 1641), his wife Anna Damant, and Bishops Ambr. Capello and Mich . Ophovius ( d. 1637) . - S. AISLE: altar to the right, De Crayer , Body of Christ sur rounded by the Magdalene , St. John, and angels ; at the entrance, Teniers the Elder, The seven Works of Mercy, a curious assemblage of cripples of every description . The fine Renaissance wood- carving of the choir-stalls, the confessionals, etc., is worthy of examination. Excellent organ . The inner court contains a ' Mt. Calvary', an artificial mound covered with pieces of rock and slag , garnished with statues of saints, angels, prophets , and patriarchs, and surmounted by a crucifix . The grotto below is intended to represent the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem . Following the ' Canal des Récollets' , a street to the E. of the Church, and turning to the left through the Rue des Récollets , we reach a small Place , formed by the junction of four streets , where the entrance to the former museum is situated . In the centre of the Place (Pl . B, C, 3) rises a Statue of Van Dyck, executed and presented by Leonhard de Cuyper, in 1856. The old Franciscan monastery (Pl . C , 3) , Ruedu Fagot 21 , con tained the Museum before it was transferred in 1890 to the Palais des Beaux - Arts (p . 156). From the garden a portico leads into the old monastery church . The convent is occupied by the celebrated Académie des Beaux Arts, the successor of the medieval guild of St. Luke, a corporation founded for the promotion of art by Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy , about the middle of the 15th cent. , and richly endowed by Philip IV. of Spain. The number of mem bers never exceeds twenty-five, of whom ten may be foreigners. M. NOTEBOHM, Rue du Fagot 3 ( Pl. B , 3) , possesses a private gallery of upwards of 60 good modern pictures , open to lovers of the fine arts daily ( 1 fr . ) . * P. Delaroche, Holy Family ; Ary Sche t'er, Faust and Marguerite , The king of Thule ; Bellangé , Napoleon visiting the wounded after the battle of Austerlitz; Gallait , The happy and unhappy mother; Koekkoek, Landscapes ; Lessing, Luther burning the papal bull ; Leop . Robert, Neapo Jesuits' Church . ANTWERP. 15. Route. 149 litan fishermen playing the mandolin ; Gude, Norwegian landscape ; Ca lame, Swiss landscape ; J. A. van der Veen, Eve and the Serpent, and Jos . Geefs, Girl at a brook , two marble statues. In a separate room , eight ancient works: Murillo, Assumption ; Slingeland, Portraits. Near this point , Rue de l'Empereur 5 , is the old house of Burgomaster Rockox, the facade of which was designed by Rubens. - The Military Hospital (Pl . 33 ; E, 4) was once the house of Burgomaster van Liere , who here entertained Charles V. during his visit to Antwerp in 1521. Dürer praises the building in his diary . A few streets farther N. , near the Avenue du Commerce (p . 152 ), is situated small church of St. Antoine ( Pl . C, 2) , or Church of the Capuchins, erected in 1589, and containing two valuable pic tures. On the W. wall of the left aisle , * Christ mourned over by his friends and two angels , by Van Dyck. In the choir, the first picture on the left , St. Anthony receiving the Infant Jesus from the arms of the Virgin , by Rubens. Opposite the last, St. Anthony with the stigmata, after Rubens. A little to the N. E. of the Cathedral lies the former Jesuits' Church (St. Charles Borromée ; Pl . B , 3) , built in 1614-21 by the Jesuit Fr. Aguillon from plans by Rubens, and sumptuously adorned with marble and works of art . Rubens himself furnished for it no fewer than 36 pictures . The structure was unfortunately struck by lightning in 1718 and burned to the ground, with the exception of the choir with its two side-chapels containing three large altar pieces (Assumption , Miracles of St. Ignatius Loyola, and St. Francis Xavier ), now preserved in the Belvedere Gallery at Vienna. The church was rebuilt in the style of the original edifice, though with less magnificence. Handsome façade. Pleasing bell-tower in the Renaissance style . The INTERIOR is in the form of a basilica with galleries . Round the walls, to a height of about 10 ft . from the floor, runs a handsome car ved wooden wainscoting with medallions representing scenes from the lives of SS . Ignatius and Francis Xavier, by Baurscheidt (d . 1745) and Van der Voort ( d . 1737) . The high - altar was designed by Rubens. Over the altar the three following paintings are exhibited alternately : C. Schut (d. 1655 ), Madonna enthroned ; Seghers, Christ on the Cross ; Wappers, The Virgin interceding. The statues of ss . Francis Borgia and Francis Xavier are by A. Quellin , those of SS . Ignatius and Aloysius by A. Colyns de Nole ( 17th cent.). " The Virgin's Chapel still containssome specimens of the marble decoration of the building of 1618. The Chapel of St. Francis Xavier contains a painting by Seghers , St. Francis kneeling before the Virgin. In the Sacristy is a handsome ivory crucifix of the 17th century. The building to the W. of the church contains the Municipal Library, which is open to the public on weekdays, 9.30 to 4. In front of it is a monument to Hendrik Conscience , the Flemish no velist (d . 1883) , by Fr. Joris . The LONGUE RUE NEUVE leads hence to the right to the *Bourse , or Exchange ( Pl. C, 2) , erected in 1869-72 on the site of a fine late- Gothic structure of 1531 (by Dom. van Waghemakere), which was burned down in 1858. The new edifice , designed by Jos. 150 Route 15 . ANTWERP. St. Jacques. Schadde , is in the same style as its predecessor, but on a much larger scale , and has an entrance on each of the four sides . The hall, which is covered with glass , is 56 yds . long and 44 yds . wide, and is surrounded by a double arcade borne by 68 columns, opening towards the centre in Moorish -Gothic trefoil arches . Above these is a gallery borne by 38 columns, adjoining which are the Tri bunal de Commerce and the Telegraph Office. The ceiling is borne by an elegant wrought- iron framework , and the walls are adorned with the arms of Antwerp , the Belgian lion , and the arms of the dif ferent provinces of Belgium . In the angles between the arches are the arms of the chief sea - faring nations. Business- hours 1-3 p.m. , during which only the galleries are accessible (ascent next the S. portal) ; at other times the place is used as a public thoroughfare. The * Church of St. Jacques (Pl . C, 3) , in the late-Gothic style , was begun in 1491 from designs by Her. van Waghemakere and carried on after his death by Dom . van Waghemakere, but was still unfinished in 1526 when the work was discontinued. In 1602 after the subsidence of the religious troubles of the latter half of the 16th century, the works were resumed , and the church completed in 1656 (the chief portal being added in 1694) . It is a cruciform structure , flanked with chapels on each side and in the choir also , and is the principal church in Antwerp after the cathe dral , which it far surpasses in the sumptuousness of its monuments and decorations. The wealthiest and most distinguished families at Antwerp here possessed their burial vaults , private chapels , and altars , the most interesting of which is that of the family of Rubens, in the choir, at the back of the high- altar . The principal entrance is on the S. side , in the Longue Rue Neuve (open for the inspection of the works of art between 12 and 4 p.m .;sacristan's fee 1 fr. for each pers .; visitors knock at the door). The INTERIOR , which is of harmonious proportions, is lighted by fine stained-glass windows, both ancient and modern , the for mer having been chiefly executed by A. van Diepenbeeck and Van der Veeken , the latter by J. Capronnier (p . 87) . S. AISLE. We begin to the W. 1st Chapel: A. van Dyck, St. George and the dragon ; opposite, wooden figure of St. Sebastian , by A. Quellin . The reliefs, representing scenes from the Passion, in this chapel and several of those following and also in the N. aisle are by J. Geefs, J. de Cuyper, and L. de Cuyper. 2nd Chapel : M. de Vos, Temptation of St. Anthony. Monument of the Burgo master Van Ertborn (p . 156) , with a Madonna by Guido Reni . 3rd Chapel : E. Quellin , St. Rochus cured of the plague, 1660. This and the two following chapels contain twelve small scenes from the life of St. Rochus , executed in 1517. - 4th Chapel : Altarpiece and pictures opposite , by 0. Vaenius. 5th Chapel : Fr. Floris, Women occupied with the Infant Christ and St. John; opposite, monument of Churchwarden Nicolas Mertens (d . 1586) and his > - St. Jacques. ANTWERP. 15. Route . 151 wife, with portraits , by Ambr. Francken . 6th Chapel : M. Coxie , Baptism of Christ ; Marten de Vos, Martyrdom of St. James, the wings by Francken ( Daughter of Jairus, Canaanite woman ; on the back, Gethsemane). TRANSEPT. Marble statues of the Apostles by Van der Voort, Kerricx , De Cuyper, and others . To the right and left at the beginning of the choir : Resurrection by E. Dujardin ( 1862 ), and Assumption by Boeyermans (1671 ) . In the S. arm : Elevation of the Cross, a high - relief by Van der Voort, 1719. Above the portal : Honthorst, Christ expelling the money -changers from the Temple , the wings by De Crayer. CHOIR. The rococo high-altar is by Ykens, the ornamentation by Kerricx , L. Willemssens, etc. The choir - stalls were carved by the older and younger Quellin. The stained - glass window is by Van Diepenbeeck, 1644. The S. transept is adjoined by the CHAPEL OF THE Host, containing a marble altar, fine marble screen , and statues of SS . Peter and Paul , by P. Verbruggen , L. Willemssens, and Kerricx . The pictures are by P. Thys (Last Supper ; altarpiece) , E. van Donk ( Peter's repentance ), Jan Massys (Madonna and Child ), etc. The * Stained Glass of 1626 ( to the right of the altar ) represents Rudolph of Hapsburg giving his horse to the priest carrying the monstrance, with the donors below. RETRO -CHOIR. By the wall , Confessionals by A. Quellin, Willemssens, and others . Above the first of these : Goubau (d . 1618) , Dead body of Christ ; on either side of the second : M. de Vos, Ecce Homo (1562 ), and Verlinde, Madonna (1870) . 1st Chapel : H. van Balen the Elder, Trinity ; opposite, * Calling of St. Peter to the Apostleship (Peter giving Christ the fish with the piece of money) , ascribed to A. van Noort (perhaps by Rubens ). Below, after Van Dyck, Christ on the Cross ( original in the Museum). On the pier opposite : Corn . Schut, Mary weeping over the body of Christ. 2nd Chapel: Seghers , St. Ivo . 3rd Chapel : Seghers , Appearing of Christ . Van der Voort, Christ scourged , a group in marble. Above the next door : Coronation of the Virgin, Nativity, and Adoration of the Magi, winged picture by A. Janssens (d. 1631). 4th . *Rubens Chapel. The tomb of the illustrious painter (d . 30th May , 1640, at the age of 64) was covered by a new tombstone in 1755 , bearing a long inscription in Latin . The altarpiece of this chapel is a fine work by Rubens. The Holy Child is represented sitting in the lap of the Virgin in an arbour, and worshipped by St. Bonaventura . Behind the Madonna is St. Jerome, while on the other side is St. George with three holy women. According to tradition these saints are all family portraits. St. Jerome is said tobe the father of Rubens, St. George the painter himself, and the three women his two wives and Mademoiselle Lunden , whose portrait in the National Gallery at London is famous under the name of the " Chapeau de paille'. The tradition is , however, doubtful, for the exe cution of the work differs from that usual with Rubens in his later years , in which alone the portraits could have been painted .

152 Route 15 . ANTWERP. St. Jacques. - > The marble statue of the Virgin , the two angels, and the upper portion of the altar , are probably the work of Luc. Fayd'herbe (d . 1694 ), with whom Rubens was intimate . On the right and left are the monuments of two female descendants of Rubens, exe cuted by W. Geefs in 1839 and 1850. Above the next door : Th . Rombouts, Betrothal of St. Catharine. 5th Chapel : Jordaens , S. Carlo Borromeo among persons sick of the plague. 6th Chapel : Van Lint, St. Peter taking leave of St. Paul; opposite , P. Thys, Abraham's Sacrifice . 7th Chapel : Victor Wolfvoet, Visitation ( 1639) . Moons, Christ at Emmaus ( 1843 ). On the wall of the choir : Peter Thys, The Trinity. The CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN, in the N. transept , contains stained glass by De la Baer (1641) ; also , on the altar, A. Quellin the Elder, Pietà, a small painted sculpture in wood, 1650 ; A. Francken , Entombment, and the Risen Saviour appearing to Mary Magdalene. N. TRANSEPT. Above the portal , J. Honthorst, Christ among the Doctors in the Temple ; on the wings, Seghers, Annunciation , and Adoration of the Magi . Thys, Assumption of the Virgin ; E. Quellin the Younger , Death of St. Francis. On the pillar, C. Schut, Body of Christ on the knees of the Virgin . N. AISLB. 2nd Chapel, on the E.; M. de Vos , Glory , a winged picture ; Peter van den Avont, Madonna and the Child in a garden, surrounded by angels ; stained glass representing the Last Supper, with portraits of the donors , 1538. — 3rd Chapel : *B.v . Orley , Last Judgment; on the wings St. George and the Burgomaster Rockox (p. 149), the donor of the picture , with his three sons ; and St. Ca tharine and the wife of the burgomaster, with their ten daughters. - 4th Chapel : Van Balen, Adoration of the Magi, with Flight into Egypt, Crucifixion , and Nativity below in grisaille ; on the wings Annunciation and Visitation ; Ryckaert , Portrait of J. Doncker and his wife (above their tomb). — 5th Chapel : M. de Vos, Mary entering the Temple. 6th Chapel : Tomb of the Spanish general Del Pico (d. 1693) . In the nave, *Pulpit by Willemssens , with the Evange lists and allegorical figures of Faith, Religion , etc. ( 1675 ). The Institut de Commerce (Pl . C, 3) , in the Rue du Chêne, to the S. of the church of St. Jacques, contains a commercial museum . At the E. end of the Longue Rue Neuve rises the new Flemish Theatre, or Schouwburg ( Pl . C, 3) , erected by Dens in 1869-72. Inscription on the W. side , towards the Place de la Commune : ' Vrede baart kunst, kunst veredelt het volk' ( peace begets art, art ennobles the people). At the PLACE DE LA COMMUNE (Pl . C, 3) , on the N.E. side of which stands the Athénée Royal, by Dens, completed in 1884 , we reach the ring of spacious streets constructed on the site of the ram parts that formerly encircled the old town and were removed in 1859. To the N. runs the Avenue du Commerce, with a Scandinavian - a Royal Palace. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 153 Lutheran Church, in the Gothic style (near the Capuchin church, p . 149) ; to the S. are the Avenue des Arts, the Avenue de l'Industrie, and the Avenue du Sud , leading to the South Station . These avenues are all shaded with rows of trees . Near the beginning of the AVENUE DES ARTS , to the W. , is the small Place Teniers (Pl . C, 3) , embellished with a statue of David Teniers , by Ducaju , erected in 1867. The short Rue Leys, containing the house (No. 12) formerly occupied by Hendrik Leys, the painter, leads hence to the W. to the Place de Meir ( see below) . Farther on , on the S.E. side of the Avenue des Arts , is the Avenue Marie - Thérèse, leading to the Park (p . 168 ). At the end of the Avenue des Arts , to the right, stands the National Bank (Pl. C , 5), with its round corner -turrets, designed by Beyart , who has employed the Flemish Renaissance style in this case also ( comp. p . 79). The architectural details are admirably executed . In time of war the building is intended to serve as the depository of the national treasury . In front of the bank is a foun tain. Behind it is the Place Léopold (see below ) . At the end of the AVENUE DE L'INDUSTRIB (Pl. C, 5), on the E. side , is the new Palace of Justice, erected by Baeckelmans in the French style , and resembling the châteaux of the period of Louis XIII . Parallel with the Longue Rue Neuve ( p . 149) runs the street called the PLACE DE MEIR (Pl. C, 3 , 4) , one of the broadest in Antwerp, formed by the arching over of a canal, and flanked with handsome new houses, most of them in the baroque orrococo style. No.50 is the ROYAL PALACE, in that style, erected in 1755 from plans by Jan Pieter van Baurscheidt, for a wealthy citizen of Antwerp . No. 52, a little farther to the E. , is the House of Rubens's Parents, erected in 1567, and restored in 1854, a richly decorated building with two Corinthian columns and a bust of Rubens on the top. The only remaining part of the house which the illustrious painter built for himself in 1612, and where he died on 30th May, 1640, is a handsome portico with sculptures by Fayd'herbe, now in the garden of a house to the left ( No.7) in the neighbouring Rue Rubens ( visi tors admitted ). — The Rue Leys (see above) forms a prolongation of the Place de Meir and leads to the Place Teniers ( see above) . The Rue des Tanneurs diverging to the S. from the Place de Meir leads to the French Théâtre Royal ( Pl. C, 4 ), completed in 1834. - Adjacent is the Botanic Garden (Pl . C, 4 ), which contains a palm - house and a statue of P. Coudenberg, an Antwerp botanist of the 16th cent . , by De Cuyper. In the vicinity is the St. Elizabeth Hospital. — The small PLACE LÉOPOLD (PÍ. c, 4) is embellished with an Equestrian Statue of Leopold I., in bronze, designed by J. Geefs. The stone pedestal bears a double inscription, in Flemish and French. We now re turn, passing the National Bank, to the Avenue des Arts (see above). 154 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Augustine Church . The MAISON DES ORPHELINES, or girls' orphanage, Longue Rue de l'Hôpital 29 , was built in 1552. Above the door is a relief re presenting a school of the 16th century. The Gothic Church of St. George (Pl . C, 4, 5) , by Sluys, consecrated in 1853 , with its two lofty spires , contains fine mural * Paintings by Guffens and Swerts (p . 79), executed in 1859-68. The subjects are the Childhood and Youth of Christ, down to the Entry into Jerusalem (right aisle , beginning at the choir) ; the Suf ferings of Christ , the Resurrection , Ascension , Descent of the Holy Ghost ( left aisle, beginning at the door) ; Christ with the Virgin , Joseph , St. George, and the Apostles and Evangelists in the choir). From the S.W. corner of the Place Verte (p. 141) diverges a wide new street, named the RUE NATIONALE ( Pl. B, 4, 5), which unites the centre of the old town with the growing quarter in the S.W. part of the new town. Near the beginning of it is a monu ment ( Pl. B , 4) to the memory of Theod. van Ryswyck, a Flemish poet who died in 1849 . A little to the E. is the Church of the Augustines (Pl . B , 4 ), erected in 1615, which possesses a large altarpiece with numerous figures , by Rubens , representing the 'Nuptials of St. Catharine with the Infant Jesus' . This excellent work is unfortunately in bad preservation . Also, to the right of the principal entrance: Cels ( 1778 ), Elizabeth and Mary ; Lens (d . 1872), Presentation in the Temple. On the left : Van Brée, Baptism of St. Augustine. Farther on , to the right, the Martyrdom of St. Apollonia as an altarpiece, by Jordaens; to the left, Van Dyck, The Vision of St. Augustine. The high - altar , over which is the above mentioned work of Rubens, is by Verbruggen . On the right of the choir a modern chapel in the Romanesque style , with frescoes by Bellemans. A side- street, diverging to the W. from the Rue Nationale, leads to the small Place du Vendredi , in the S.W. angle of which is the *Musée Plantin - Moretus ( Pl . B, 4), established in the house of the celebrated printer Christopher Plantin (1514-89), who set up his printing- office at intwerp in 1555. From 1579 down to the present day the business was carried on in this building , at first by Plantin himself, and afterwards by the family of his son in-law Moretus . After the middle of the 17th cent . the operations of the firm were confined to the printing of mass and prayer-books, for which Plantin had received a monopoly from Philip II . for the dominions of the Spanish crown . When this privilege was withdrawn in the year 1800, the printing - office was temporarily closed, and afterwards it was only used at intervals down to 1875, when the building with its antique furniture , tapestry , paintings (90 portraits, including 14 by Rubens and 2 by Van Dyck ), and other collections, was purchased by the city of Antwerp. The house therefore now presents a unique picture of the dwelling and contiguous business-premises of a Flemish patrician of the end of St. Andrew's Church . ANTWERP. 15. Route. 155 the 16th century . Adm . daily 10-4, Sat. excepted, 1 fr. Interest ing catalogue by Max Rooses, 1 fr . GROUND FLOOR. In the vestibule we turn to the right at the foot of the staircase , and enter Room I, which contains some fine old Flemish tapestry and a tortoise- shell table. Room II . contains several admir able family-portraits. To the right , above the modern mantel-piece in the Renaissance style , hangs a portrait of Plantin by Frans Pourbus the Elder (1578 ), which served as a model for the other portrait, by Rubens, to the right of the door of exit . Rubens also painted the portraits of Jeanne Rivière, Plantin's wife ; of Martina Plantin (by the window ) ; of John Moretus, son-in-law of Plantin ( d. 1610) ; and of Adriana Gras, Arias Mon tanus, Justus Lipsius, Abraham Ortelius, and P. Plantin . Most, however, are merely school-pieces. On the exit - wall are two sketches by Rubens ; also two fine portraits by Thos. Bosschaert, surnamed Willebords: Balthasar Moretus , under whom the printing-office enjoyed a new lease of success and fame in 1618-41 , and Gevartius, the Town Clerk , a friend of Moretus and Rubens. In the centre , under glass : Drawings , Title - pages , Vig. nettes, partly by Rubens , who , as appears from receipts which are still preserved ( in the middle of the window -wall), frequently drew designs for printers ; also Erasmus Quellin , Bernard van Orley, Marten de Vos , and others. Two fine cabinets of the 17th century. Room III . also con tains portraits . To the left of the entrance : Balthasar Moretus on his death -bed , by Bosschaert ( Willebords ) ; Magdalena Plantin and her hus band , Gilles Beys, by an unknown painter. Among the other portraits are several copies by Rubens of Italian works, including Pope LeoX. after Raphael . In the centre : Miniatures from the 10th to the 16th cent.; specimens of Plantin's printing . Above the mantel-piece: Copy of the large boar-hunt by Rubens , now at Munich . We now cross the med iæval - looking COURT, where we see numerous repetitions of Plantin's motto, 'Labore et constantia. ' One side is entirely covered by the bran ches of an aged vine. Below the arcade , to the right, are the SALE Rooms, with a separate entrance from the street ; they are embellished with old Flemish tapestry and oaken panelling (partly restored ). One of them contains a painted spinet of the 17th cent. ( St. Cecilia , after Ru bens). On the other side of the court is the PRINTING OFFICE , where everything is left arranged as if work were to be resumed to -morrow . We first enter the ProoF-READERS' Room, where old proof- sheets , first im pressions, etc. , are still lying on the desks and benches. Next to this are the PROPRIETOR'S OFFICE , with gilt-leather hangings, and the so -called Room of Justus LIPSIUS, with Spanish leather hangings, where the dis tinguished critic and philologist is said to have been lodged when visit ing his publisher Moretus. A passage leads hence to the Type Room, with old matrices , etc., and to the COMPOSING AND PRINTING Room , by the exit- wall of which stand two presses of the 16th century : We now return to the vestibule and ascend the stairs to the FIRST FLOOR. Two rooms here contain specimens of the work of several famous printing- offices , some Chinese porcelain , and a small library, with va rious interesting autographs in glass cases by the window- wall. Two other rooms contain a collection of wood -cuts and a coloured view of Antwerp in 1565. We may next visit the library, and a room containing the titles to the different privileges enjoyed by Plantin. In other rooms are pre served copper- plates after Rubens, Jordaens, and Van Dyck, and numerous fine specimens of early printing. There is also a type-foundry, etc. A little to the S., but nearer the Rue Nationale, stands the Church of St. Andrew (Pl . B, 4) , a late-Gothic edifice of 1514-23 , containing several works of art. The pulpit , in carved wood, is by Van Geel and Van Hool ( 18th cent. ). St. Peter and St. Andrew are represented in a boat on the sea , from which they are summoned by the Saviour ; life -size figures, finely exe cuted . In the N. CHAPEL OF THE CHOIR : Govaerts, Flight into Egypt ; Seghers, St. Anna instructing the Virgin . CHOIR : 0. Vaenius, Crucifixion 156 Route 15. ANTWERP. Museum . of St. Andrew ; Erasmus Quellin the Younger , Guardian angel of youth. S. CHAPEL OF THE CHOIR : Franck , Last Supper (altarpiece) ; Segher's, Raising of Lazarus ; E. Quellin , Christ at Emmaus; E. Quellin , Holy Family. By the choir are two statues , (left) St. Peter by A. Quellin the Younger, and ( right) St. Paul by Zielens. In the TRANSEPTS several modern pictures, by Verlat, Van Eycken , and others. Side-altar on the S .: Pepyn , Crucifixion ; on the N., Franck , St. Anna teaching children , a work with numerous figures . The aisles contain a number of large modern pictures. On a pillar in the S. TRANSEPT is a small medallion- portrait of Mary Queen of Scots (by Pourbus), with an inscription in memory of that un fortunate sovereign, and of two of her ladies - in- waiting who are interred in this church .

To the S. the Rue Nationale is continued by the Rue du Peuple (Pl. B , 5) . In the Place Marnix, to the E. of the Rue du Peuple, à monument by Winders was erected in 1883 to commemorate the abolition of the river dues of the Schelde in 1863, an event to which Antwerp owes most of her present prosperity (see p. 140) . –

Palais des Beaux-Arts (currently the KMSKA)

The Rue du Peuple terminates at the Place du Peuple, in which rises the imposing new museum (Palais des Beaux-Arts), erected in 1879-1890 from plans by Winders and Van Dyck, in the Greek Renaissance style, with suggestions of the baroque. The building is in the form of a massive rectangle, enclosing six inner courts. The main entrance, in the W. façade, is by a portico supported by four colossal Corinthian columns, and flanke on the upper story by loggie. The Attic story is embellished with allegorical figures and medallions by Dupuis, De Pleyn, Ducaju, and Fabri. The horizontal line of the upper cornice is interrupted at the corners by pylon shaped pedestals, which are to support groups of statuary by Vincotte.

The side-walls of the museum have also not yet received their decoration . On the ground - floor, in the left wing, are the sculptures, in the right wing , the Rubens Collection ; on the upper floor is the picture gallery . Adm. daily 9-5 ( 10-4 in winter ), Sun. and Thurs. free, other days 1 fr . Catalogue ( in French) of the paint ings and sculptures , by Van Lerius , 11/2 fr.; smaller Flemish cata logue 1/2 fr.; catalogue of the Rubens Collection by Rooses, 1 fr. In the Entrance Hall, opposite the entrance are four busts of former members of the Academy ( p . 148) : 1030. Wappers, by J. de Braekeleer; 1149. Herreyns, by Van de Veen ; 1068. Nic. de Keyser, by Jos . Geefs; 1024. W. Geefs, by himself. We turn first to the left and enter the SCULPTURE GALLERY. The Main Room is divided into three sections by coupled columns projecting from each side . Section 1. 1507. Debay the Elder, Girl holding a shell to her ear ; 1031. De Braekeleer, Bust of L. van Kuyck ; 1069. Jos. Geefs, Bust of Burgomaster Fl . van Ertborn (p . 158) ; * 1066. Jos. Geefs, Leander drowned . Section II . To the right : E. Quellin the Younger, *702. St. Se bastian (wooden statue ), 703. Caritas Romana ; 1523. Jos. Geefs, The Fisher, from Goethe ; 1518. A. Dumont, Cupid , in bronze ; Museum. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 157 1039. Deckers, The blind man, group in bronze ; *1085. Lambeaux, The kiss, highly realistic ; W. Geefs, Genovefa of Brabant; 1517. Drake, Medallion - portrait of himself. To the left, chiefly busts : 1530. Kiss, by himself ; 1540. Rauch, by Rietschel ; 1033. F. de Braekeleer, by J. J. de Braekeleer ( terracotta ); * 1038. Deckers, Education of Bacchus ; 1522. Bust of W. Geefs, by himself; 1116. Van Lerius, by Pecher. Section III. In the middle : 1060, Ducaju , King Leopold II . of Belgium ; * 1529. Kiss, Amazon attacked by a panther, reduced marble replica of the group at the museum in Berlin ; *1054. De Rudder, The nest, realistic . - In the middle of the rear- wall : 1115 . Pecher, Colossal marble bust of Rubens, on an elaborate bronze pedestal , erected in 1877 in bonour of the three hundredth anni versary of the birth of the great master ; 1056. Devigne, Maiden's prayer ; 1519. G.J. Thomas, Bust of A. Dumont, the sculptor ( ter racotta). In the centre of the room connecting this hall with the Rubens rooms ( see below) : * 1516. Drake, Large bronze vase , with reliefs representing human life . The corner-room and eight rooms and two side -halls on the ground-floor of the right wing are devoted to the Rubens COLLECTION (L'Oeuvre gravé de Rubens), founded in 1877 (see above) by the city of Antwerp and the Belgian state . It contains reproductions ( engravings, etchings, woodcuts , photographs, etc. ) of nearly all the extant works of Rubens in the various galleries, churches, etc. , and affords a most instructive insight into the wonderful versatility and inexhaustible powers of the great master. Upwards of 1100 plates etc. are here exhibited , each bearing an ex planatory extract from Rooses's catalogue (p . 156 ). Nos . 1-476 include in six sections the religious and ecclesiastical pictures: general and symbolical representations, scenes from the Old and New Testaments, paintings from churches, Madonnas ( in which the portrait of Isabella Brandt, Rubens's first wife, frequently occurs ), saints, martyrs, etc. Next follow paintings of secular subjects : mythological ( from Ovid ) and historical representations, including scenes from the lives of Marie de Médecis and Henri IV. of France (originals in the Louvre), and James I. of Great Britain ; allegories ; genre - scenes ; portraits (816-981); hunting scenes ; landscapes (Nos. 1001-1042 ): and a series of examples without numbers . — The following rooms are still empty . From the entrance -hall (p . 156) a portal leads to the Staircase ( Vestibule De Keyser), which also communicates with the sculpture gallery and the Rubens rooms by means of a central portal with caryatides and side- doors . The large vestibule is handsomely proportioned , and its walls are clad with coloured marble. The chief decorations, however, are the paintings ( on canvas) by Nicaise de Keyser, the subjects being taken from the history of the Antwerp School of Art (best viewed from the top of the staircase ). In the principal painting over the entrance, and in the large scenes on the right and left wall , the whole of the Antwerp masters are assembled, 52 in thefirst, and 42 in each of the other two . In the centre of the prin cipal picture is Antwerpia on a throne ; beneath are Gothic and Re naissance art ; to the left Quinten Massys in a sitting posture , and 158 Route 15 . ANTWERP Museum . . Frans Floris standing ; above Massys is a group of the architects of the cathedral of Antwerp; on the right side of the picture Rubens as the principal figure ; in East front of him, to the left , his teacher Othó Vænius ; be tween them Jor daens, leaning over the balustrade, in G F a yellow robe ; in E front of Rubens is 0 IdMasters Corn . Schut, sitting on the steps ; next him on the right, VanDyck,whopart M D ly hides from view H old David Teniers the Elder in a blue dress ; in the centre of the first bay Casp. dei Crayer, then Jan Brueghel L K с B in a red robe etc. , Mas The picture to our right on entering contains figures of I painters and sculp ters tors , that to the R А left painters and engravers. The six smaller pictures, on the right and left of the princi pal pieces, are in S Q. J N O tended to embody the various influ Modern Masters Historical ences which have affected the devel opment of Flemish Mod Paint art , particularly those which eman T P ated from Italy ern ing's Great Vestibule (Raphael, Michael de Keyser Angelo, etc. ) . Six other paintings in dicate the appre V. W ciation with which the art of Brabant Masters Modern Masters i Portraits has been received at Vienna, London, Paris , Amsterdam , Bologna,andRome. The first floor West contains the

• • PICTURE GALLERY. The Collection of Old Masters includes 755 pic tures, many of them collected from the suppressed monasteries and churches of Antwerp, while others have been brought hither from the Hôtel de Ville and the Steen. In 1840 the Burgomaster Van Ertborn (p. 156 ) bequeathed his collection to the museum . The Musée Mo derne , or Gallery of Modern Paintings contains about 200 canvases.

. U Museum . ANTWERP. 15. Route. 159 The collection of works of the Flemish school is ample and excellent . Both the early painters, who are usually classed as belonging to the school of Van Eyck, and the later, headed by Rubens , are admirably represented. Specially noteworthy are the following : St. Barbara, by Jan van Eyck (No. 410 ); the Seven Sacraments, by Roger van der Weyden ( No. 393) ; the Entombment, by Quinten Massy8 ( No.245 ); the Crucifixion , by Van Dyck (No. 406) ; St. Francis, by Van den Hoeck ( No. 381) ; and , among the specimens of Rubens, Christ and the two Malefactors (No. 297 ), the Portraits of Burgomaster Rockox and his wife (wings of No. 307), the Pietà (No. 300) , and St. Theresa (No. 299) . The number of other than Flemish pictures is very limited ; conspicuous among them are a Crucifixion by Antonello da Messina ( No. 4) , and the Fisher-boy by Frans Hals ( No. 188) . The historical arrangement of the pictures has been attempted only on the broadest lines. Rooms A- K contain the older masters, Rooms N-P the so- called historical paintings, i.e. those referring to the history of Antwerp, and Rooms Q - W the modern paintings. We first enter Room J. To the left, 709. Rubens, Jupiter and Antiope ( 1614 ); 472, 473. Van Thulden , " Triumphal Arch of Philip 1. ' , painted for the illustrated description of Rubens's Triumphal Arch published by Van Thulden and Gervatius in 1641 ; 318. Rubens, The trium phal car ; 316, 317. Rubens, Two sketches of triumphal arches, executed in 1635 for the city of Antwerp on the occasion of the triumphal entry of Ferdinand , Archduke of Austria , the victor of Nördlingen and Calloo . Six other sketches are in the Hermitage at St. Petersburg. One of the arches was to have been 80 ft. high and 60 ft. wide . 185. Ant. Goubau, Art- studies in Rome (1662) ; 315. Rubens, Descent from the Cross, a small replica ( 1612) of the painting in the cathedral. 406. Van Dyck, Christ on the Cross, a reduced imitation of Rubens's well-known picture (No. 313), of ghastly , but most effective colouring ; the full outline of the body, however, hardly accords with the suffering expressed by the features. Human re signation is admirably expressed , but there is perhaps a deficiency in divine dignity. — *307-310. Rubens, The doubting Thomas, on the wings half -length portraits of the Burgomaster Nic . Rockox (p. 149) and his wife Adrienne Perez . Theportraits are far finer than the figures in the central picture (comp. p . xlviii ) . 22. Th. Boeyermans , The visit ; 748. Van Thulden , Continence of Scipio ; 157. Fr. Francken the Younger, The works of mercy. Room I. ( large central room). To the left : 212. A. Janssens, Personification of the Schelde ; 172. J. Fyt, Sleeping hounds with *299. Rubens, St. Theresa interceding for souls in purgatory, one of the most pleasing pictures of the artist's later dead game. 160 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Museum . period ; 405. Van Dyck, Portrait of Caesar Alexander Scaglia, the Spanish ambassador at the Congress of Münster; *306. Rubens, The Virgin instructed by St. Anna, a very attractive group ; colouring mellow and harmonious (about 1630) ; 53. C. de Crayer, Elijah fed by ravens.

• 298 . Rubens, Adoration of the Magi, painted in 1624 .

This gorgeous and imposing composition, on a similar scale with the Elevation of the Cross , but far less impressive , contains about twenty figures over life- size , besides camels and horses in the suite of the Three Kings , crowded into the picture , while the sumptuousness of the cos tumes and vessels gives the whole an overloaded effect. The king holding the goblet is a somewhat awkward figure. It must , however, be ad mitted that the work exhibits marvellous freedom and boldness of out line , great skill in arrangement, and a wonderful variety of attitude all genuine attributes of Rubens. The picture is said to have been painted in a fortnight. 480-482 . 0. van Veen ( Otho Venius, or Vaenius, p . xlvi), three pictures: Call of St. Matthew, Beneficence of St. Nicholas , St. Nicholas saving his flock from perishing by famine. The composition , co louring, and drawing of these pictures bear testimony to the paint er's five years ' residence in Italy. —*312. Rubens, Holy Family, ' La Vierge au perroqueť , so called from the parrot at the side, one of his earlier works , presented by him to the Guild of St. Luke, on his election as president, in 1631, and hardly inferior in composition and colouring to his more celebrated works (comp. p. xlvi). –

• 313 . Rubens, Christ on the Cross (frequently copied and imitated ).

327. Corn . Schut , Martyrdom of St. George, excellent both in composition and drawing; the saint recalls the type of Christ ; 673 . P. Gysels, Still - life ; 107. Corn. de Vos , St. Norbert receiving the Host and Sacred Vessels that had been hidden during a time of war and heresy ; 659. P. de Ryng, Still- life ; 479. O. van Veen, Zachæus in the sycamore - tree .

• 404. Van Dyck, The dead Saviour ( “ Pieta' ), painted soon after his return from Italy ( 1628).

The Virgin is represented supporting the head of the dead Christ on her knees ; St. John shows the wound made by the nail in the left hand to two angels , one of whom veils his face . The features of Christ bear traces of intense physical suffering. St. John and the angel whose beau tiful face is visible wear an expression of profound grief, which however they can still express in words , whereas the anguish of the Virgin is unutterable ; her head is thrown back , her arms wildly extended. The picture is chaste , the colouring subdued (now unfortunately faded) ; yet the tendency of the master's school to a full and somewhat sensual out line is apparent , although the work does not altogether lack sentiment.

• • 297 . Rubens , Christ crucified between the two thieves ( ' le coup de lance' ) , a very celebrated picture, painted for the church of

the Franciscans in 1620. This picture is remarkable for its dramatic effect, and is by no means deficient in sentiment . Longinus, the Roman officer, mounted on a grey horse , is piercing the side of the Saviour with a lance . The penitent thief, a grey -haired man, is invoking the Saviour for the last time. To the left in the foreground stands the Virgin Mother, whom Mary the wife Museum . ANTWERP. 15. Route . 161 of Cleophas in vain endeavours to console. Farther back , St. John leans against the cross of the impenitent thief, weeping. Mary Magdalene , on her knees at the foot of the Cross, implores Longinus to spare the sacred body of her master. This is considered by many to be Rubens's chef d'oeuvre , and deserves the minutest inspection . There is no inaccurate drawing here, as in almost all the master's other works, and at the same time the composition and colouring are inimitable. The profile of the Magdalene is remarkably beautiful, expressive of horror and supplication , without being distorted . The whole composition is a striking example of that marvellous boldness of imagination in which Rubens is unrivalled . 240. N. Maes, Martyrdom of St. George ; 508. G. Seghers, Be trothal of the Virgin .

• 300-304. Rubens, ' Christ à la Paille' , the body of Christ resting on a stone bench covered with straw, partly supported by Joseph of Arimathæa, and mourned over by the Virgin , with St. John and Mary Magdalene. On the wings (301 , 303) the Virgin and Child,

and St. John the Evangelist . This most interesting altarpiece (painted about 1617 ) shows by its carefully - executed details that it is one of the master's earlier works, pro duced before he had adopted his bold and dashing touch . Here , too, we have a full and flowing outline and admirable ease of attitude, but there is no symptom of the master's subsequent abuse of his power , in pro ducing overwhelming masses of flesh and crowds of figures in forced postures. A happy mean is here observed, and there is greater beauty and sentiment than in his later works. The colouring is delicate and harmo nious. The weeping Mary Magdalene is a particularly expressive figure.

• 104. Corn . de Vos, Portrait of a functionary ( knap, i . e. ‘ knave' )

of the Corporation of St. Luke, painted in 1620 ; the artistically executed cups of gold and silver on the table at which he stands were gifts to the Academy from princes and sovereigns. - 171 . J. Fyt, Two eagles ; 719. F. Snyders, Fishmonger's shop ; 358. Valentin , Card-players ; 344. D. Teniers the Younger, View of Va lenciennes ; bust of Philip IV. in front ; 314. Rubens, The Trinity and two angels with instruments of torture. A door to the right leads into Room C. (p . 164) ; another , opposite, into Room K. , which contains chiefly paintings of the later Flemish school and a few modern pictures. To the left : 384. P. Thys, Ap parition of the Virgin ; 280. Er. Quellin, A saint; 39. J. Cossiers , Portrait of a physician ; 1113 , 1111. Ommeganck, Landscapes with animals ; 436. Th. van Loon, Assumption ; 178. H. Govaerts, Com pany of archers unveiling the portrait of their captain J. Ch . de Cordes ; 491. Verhaghen, Hagar and Ishmael ; 490. C. J. Verbruggen, Flowers ; 1081. W. J. Herreyns, Crucifixion ; 292. Er. Quellin, Mi racle of St. Hugo. - Wenow retrace our steps through Room I. to Room H. To the left : 381. Van den Hoeck, St. Francis ; *401 . Van Dyck, Christ on the Cross, at the foot of which are St. Catharine of Siena and St. Dominic, with a stone bearing the inscription , ' Ne patris sui manibus terra gravis esset , hoc saxum cruci advolvebat et huic loco donabat Antonius van Dyck’ , in allusion to the history of the picture , which was executed for the Dominican Nunnery in 1629 (when Van Dyck was in his 30th year) , at the dying wish of the artist's father. — 336. F. Snyders, Dead game ; 215. Jordaens, Last BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 11 - 162 Route 15. ANTWERP. Museum . Supper ; 335. Snyders, Swans and dogs ; above the door, 707. Rubens, Baptism of Christ, with figures over life -size; it has un fortunately been freely retouched . The group of five men dressing themselves , to the right, seems to have been suggested by the celebrated Bathing Soldiers of Michael Angelo. — * 403. Van Dyck, Entombment : the finely - balanced composition of this expressive pic ture and its careful execution , in which the effect of brilliant colour ing is intentionally renounced, assure it a place among the master pieces of the first rank. 706. Rubens, Portrait of Gasp. Gevaerts.

• 305 . Rubens, Communion of St. Francis ; recalling Carracci's Communion of St. Jerome . The figure of the saint, who is receiving his last sacrament, produces a most painful impression . The picture was painted in 1619, and Rubens's receipt for the price is still preserved (“seven hondert en vyftig gulden , tot volcomen betalinghe van een stuck schilderye door myne handt gemaeckt , i . e . ( seven hundred and fifty florins , in full payment for a piece of painting done by my hand ').

708. Rubens, Portrait ; 31. P. Brueghel the Younger, Bearing of the Cross ; 402. Copy after Rubens (ascribed to Van Dyck in the catalogue , original at Windsor ), Portrait of Bishop Malderus of Antwerp (d. 1633) ; 21. Th. Boeyermans, Pool of Bethesda ; 734. Van Dyck , Portrait of a priest ; 221. Jordaens, Adoration of the shepherds; 677. J. Jordaens the Elder, Family concert; 145. A. Francken , Martyrdom of SS. Crispinus and Crispinianus. Room F. To the left : 329. D. Seghers, Ignatius Loyola, in a frame of flowers; 726. Dav. Teniers the Younger, The duel ; 687 689. M.Pepyn, St. Elizabeth (triptych ) ; 108.C. de Vos, Adoration of the Magi; Dav . Teniers the Younger, 348. Evening, 346. Morn ing, 347. Afternoon ; 186. A. Goubau, Piazza Navona at Rome ; 727. D. Teniers the Younger, Landscape ; 710. Rubens, Beseeching the help of Christ for the poor and afflicted ( sketch) ; 345. D. Teniers the Younger, Flemish tavern . We now turn to the left to Room G. To the left : 641. B. Breenberg, Lament over the body of Abel ; 54. J. D. de Heem , Fruit ; 10. Nic. Berghem, Italian land scape . *293 . Rembrandt, Portrait of Saskia van Ulenburgh , his first wife; according to M. Bode, a repetition with alterations of the famous picture at Cassel (1633), and painted by a pupil. 637. N. Berghem, Italian landscape with cattle; 733 , A. van de Velde, Pleasures of winter (1662); * 715 . Sal. van Ruysdael, Dutch river, with ferry; * 349. G. Terburg, Mandolin- player ; 6. A. Backer , Allegory; * 188 . Fr. Hals, Half-length portrait of a fisher- boy ( the 'Strandlooper van Haarlem’ ; painted, according to M. Bode, about 1640); 668. Karel Dujardin , Cattle ; 399. W. van de Velde, Calm sea ; 125. Corn. Dusart, Interior of a peasant's hut ; 294. Rembrandt, The little fisher; above , no number, De Keyser, Portrait; *295 . Rembrandt , Portrait of an aged Jew ; 502, J. Wynants and A. van de Velde , Landscape; 11. G. Berck - Heyde, Amsterdam with view of Museum . ANTWERP. 15. Route. 163 the townhall ; 9. Nic. Berghem, Plunderers ; *189. Fr. Hals, Portrait ; 222. J. Jordaens, Portrait; * 407. A. van Dyck, Portrait of a girl ; the dogs by Fyt ; 437. W. van Mieris, Fishmonger; 321. Sal. van Ruysdael, River scene ; 319. Rubens and Jan Brueghel, Pietà ;429. Van Kessel, Landscape ; 320. Jac. van Ruysdael, Landscape ( 1649) , one of the earliest works of the master , and still revealing strong traces of the influence of J. Wynants ; 398. A. van de Velde, Land scape ; 501. Ph. Wouverman, Riders resting; 196. C. Hoeckgeest, Interior of the Nieuwe Kerk at Delft ; above, no number, K. L. and E. J. Verboeckhoven , Sea- piece. 338. Jan Steen ,Samson and thePhilistines ; 466. Adr. van Ostade, Smokers ( 1655); 46. Alb. Cuyp, Two riders ; 682. D. Mytens, Portrait ; 503. Wynants , Landscape ( the figures by A. van de Velde); * 339.Jan Steen, Rustic wedding ; 500. Ph. Wouverman, Riders resting ; 679. J. Molenaer, Village festival ; 674. Fr. Hals, Portrait ; 729. W. van Aelst, Fruit; 675. Hobbema, Mill; 131. Gov. Flinck , Portrait-group ; 752. J. Weenix, Still-life; 657. Ph. de Koninck, Portrait ; 655. C. Decker, Landscape ; 26. J. and A. Both , Italian landscape; 713. J. van Ruysdael, Waterfall in Norway ; 467. Is. van Ostade, Winter scene; 714. Jac. van Ruysdael, Storm at sea ; 497.J. Weenix, Italian harbour ; 7. L. Bakhuysen, Dutch war -ship ; 390. A. van der Neer, Landscape by moonlight. We return through Room F. to Room E. To the left: 356. Theys, Descent from the Cross ; 365. Van Balen, John the Baptist preaching ; 23. Th. Boeyermans, Ant werp as patron of the arts (allegorical composition ); 322. D. Ryckaert, Village festival ; 219. Jordaens, Allegory ; 658. A.del Campidoglio, Fruit; 265. Murillo (copy ), St. Francis ; 653. De Backer, Last Judgment; 137, 136 , 139 , 140. Amb. Francken , Triptych , repre senting the Last Supper, Christ at Emmaus, Melchisedec, SS. Paul and Barnabas, To the right is Room D. , which forms with Room B. and A. one large hall. We begin to the right of the portal to Room B. 638. H. Bosch, Stations of the Cross ; 273. M. Pepyn, Crossing of the Red Sea ; 229. A. Key, Second and third wives of De Smidt. 112. Frans de Vriendt, or Frans Floris , Fall of the Angels, painted in 1554, and highly esteemed by his contemporaries . This extensive work is crowded with figures falling headlong in every conceivable attitude , and is destitute of any depth of perspective . Many of the figures are beautiful, even in their distorted positions. A fly painted on the leg of one of the falling angels has given rise to the absurd story that it was painted by Quinten Massys , and that Floris , whose daughter Massys was wooing , having been deceived by it , was satisfied with this proof of his skill, and gave his consent to the marriage. The name of the painter whose daughter Massys perhaps married (see p . 146 ) is unknown, while Floris was only 10 years old when Massys died. 228. A. Key, Portraits of the De Smidt family; 113. Fr..de Vriendt ( Fr. Floris ), Adoration of the shepherds ; 88. Mart. de Vos, St. Luke painting the Virgin ; 83-85. Mart. de Vos, Parables of the Tribute -money and the Widow's Mite ( triptych, 1601 ). - * 357. - ? 11 * 164 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Museum . Titian, Pope Alexander VI. presenting the Bishop of Paphos, a member of the noble fainily of Pesaro , to St. Peter, on the appoint ment of the bishop as admiral ( painted about 1503 ; the heads freely restored ). —135. A. Francken , Feeding of the Five Thousand ; 183. J. Gossaert or Mabuse, Madonna and Child.

• • 244, 246-249. Quinten Massys, The dead Saviour, a scene (technically termed a ' Pietà') between the Deposition from the Cross and the Entombment. It was formerly an altarpiece in

the cathedral , completed in 1508, and is universally regarded as the master's chef d'oeuvre . CENTRAL PICTURE. The funeral cortège is represented as halting at the foot of Mt. Calvary, whilst on its way from the Cross to the Se pulchre . The dead Saviour is partly supported by Nicodemus, on whose right Joseph of Arimathæa supports the head with one hand, while with the other he removes the remaining shreds of the crown of thorns. The mother in an agony of grief kneels near the body of her Son, and is supported by St. John. On the left Mary Magdalene , to her right Salome. The corpse itself bears evident traces of the master's anxiety to attain ana tomical accuracy. Its attitude is rigid , the countenance distorted by the pangs of the death -struggle. The face of the Virgin is almost as pale as that of the dead body itself. The man with the turban , bearing the crown of thorns , appears rather indignant than mournful. The expres sion of Joseph of Arimathæa is that of pain mingled with benevolence. St. John has the rigid and almost square features , disfigured by grief, which had become the usual type of the apostle in theearlier period of art . The WINGS , which are less satisfactory than the central picture, represent the martyrdom of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist. In the former Herod is represented banqueting in an open hall , whilst the daughter of Herodias brings in the head of the Baptist. The task of depicting frivolity and vanity in the countenances of the king and the hardened mother , contrasted with an expression of greater feeling in the daughter, has evidently been attempted by the master, though not very successfully. The motion of the girl, intended to be light and elastic , is hard and forced. Some of the heads, however , are admirably finished . The other wing represents St. John in the cauldron of boiling oil. The executioners, in the costume of Flemish peasants , with their sun- burnt, muscular arms, are attending actively to the fire . In the background the Emp. Domitian appears , mounted on a white horse , and attended by eight horsemen. 649-651. P. Claessens, Crucifixion , Bearing of the Cross, Re surrection ; 464. B. van Orley and Joach. Patinir, Adoration of the Magi. We turn to the right to Room C. On a stand in the centre, 280-210. Lucas van Leyden (?), Adoration of the Magi ; on the right wing St. George, on the left wing the donor.

• 530, 531 , 255 , 256. Four admirable little pictures on two diptychs, almost resembling miniatures . On one of them Mary is represented with a lofty and rich crown , standing in the interior of a Gothic church ; on her right arm the Child half wrapped in the swaddling -clothes. On the back, the Saviour in a white robe with the letters Alpha and Omega, and P and F ( Pater et Filius) on a ground of red tapestry ; beneath are the armorial bearings of the two donors, date 1499. The other diptych bears the portraits of the

donors, Abbots of the Cistercian Monastery of Les Dunes near > Museum . ANTWERP. 15. Route. 165 > Bruges. These works were formerly attributed to Memling, but are now believed to have been executed by Cornelius Horebout, a master who flourished at Bruges about the end of the 15th century. 180, 181. Mabuse, The just judges, Ecce homo. To the left of the door to Room B. ( p. 163) : 199. Hans Holbein the Younger, Portrait ; 243. Quinten Massys, Mary Magdalene with the box of spikenard ; *411 . Jan van Eyck , Madonna in a blue robe , and the Child in her arms playing with a rosary ; to the right a fountain ; her feet rest on rich drapery held by two angels behind her. The picture , which bears the painter's name and motto , and the date 1439, resembles the so- called Madonna of the Seminary in the Archiepiscopal Museum at Cologne. 132. J. Fouquet (early French school) , Madonna and child ; * 5. Antonello da Messina (or rather Memling ?), Portrait. 33. Fr. Clouet ( 1510-1572 ; a French artist , who followed the Flemish school of painting), Portrait of Francis II. of France when Dauphin ; 124. A. Dürer (?), Portrait in grisaille of the Elector Frederick III. of Saxony. * 396 . Roger van der Weyden, Annunciation , a small picture of most delicate execution , formerly in the Convent of Lichtenthal near Baden Baden , once erroneously attributed to Memling (under glass) . 253. School of Roger vun der Weyden , A canon of St. Norbert; 28. Dierick Bouts ( ?) , Madonna; 47. Herri met de Bles, Repose on the flight into Egypt ; 203. Lucas van Leyden, Saul and David .

• 393-395. Roger van der Weyden , Sacrament of the altar ,

flanked by two wings representing the six other Romish sacraments (to the right, Ordination, Marriage, Extreme Unction ; to the left, Baptism , Confirmation , Confession ). The scene is in a spacious Gothic church , the architecture of which seems to unite the groups . This picture, the gem of Burgomaster Van Ertborn's collection ( p. 158 ), is brilliantly executed . The crucifixion in the foreground introduces an effective dramatic element into the picture ; and the spectator can hardly fail to sympathise with the distress of the women mourning there, as well as with the holy joy which lights up the features of the dying persons receiving the extreme unction. The angels above the various groups, robed in symbolical colours, are particularly well drawn. 387. Gerard van der Meire ( ? ), Christ in the tomb; *410. Jan van Eyck , St. Barbara , an unfinished sketch of great beauty ( 1435 ); 204, 205, 206. Lucas van Leyden , SS. Luke, Mark, and Matthew ; 250. Quinten Massys , Head of Christ ; 3. Fra Angelico da Fiesole, St. Ambrose refusing Emp. Theodosius admission to the church at Milan on account of the massacre at Thessalonica ; 64. Joach . Patinir, Landscape, with the Flight into Egypt ; 29. Dierick Bouts (?) , St. Christopher; 223. Justus van Ghent (?), Adoration of the shepherds ; 462. B. van Orley, Portrait ; 383-385. Gerard van der Meire, Bear ing of the Cross ( winged picture) ; 254. School of Roger van der Weyden, Portrait of a member of the Croy family ; 341. L. Lombard, Portrait ; 397. Roger van der Weyden (?) , Portraitof Philip the Good ofBurgundy ( under glass ); 42. L. Cranach the Elder, Adam and Eve ; *241 , * 242. Quinten Massys, Christ and Mary, two heads remarkable 166 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Museum . for their beauty and dignity, once erroneously ascribed to Holbein ( replicas in the London National Gallery) ; * 4 . Antonello da Messina (one of the first Italian masters to adopt Van Eyck's method of paint ing in oil ) , Mt. Calvary, Christ on the Cross with the malefactor at each side ; in the foreground SS . Mary and John . The picture (which bears the date 1475 ) presents a curious combination of the Flemish minuteness of detail with Italian forms . 257-260. Simone Martini of Siena ( d. 1344 ), Annunciation in two sections, Crucifixion , and Descent from the Cross, formerly at Dijon ; 412. Good copy after Jan van Eyck , Tirgin with the Canon de Pala iginal in the museum at Bruges, p. 20) ; 224. Justus van Ghent ( ?), Sacrament of the altar ; 264. Jan Mostert, Portrait; 179. Mabuse, The four Maries and John coming from the Sepulchre ; 198. Holbein (?), Portrait of Erasmus ; 263. Jan Mostert , Portrait; *43. L. Cranach the Elder, Caritas ; 244. Quinten Massys (?), The Miser ; 386. Gerard van der Meire ( ?) , Cruci fixion ; 25. H. Bosch, Temptation of St. Anthony. We return through Room B. to - Room A. To the right : 371. Michael van Coxie, Martyrdom of St. Sebastian ; 77-80. Mart. de Vos, Christ convincing the doubting Thomas, on the wings the Baptism of Christ and the Beheading of John the Baptist; 741-745. B. van Orley,Last Judgment, on the wings the Seven works of mercy ; 576-580. Unknown Master, Large trip tych, in the middle St. Eligius, the apostle of Antwerp, preaching ; 374, 375. M. van Coxie, Martyrdom of St. George ; 72-76 . M.de Vos, Triumph of Christ; 698. P. Pourbus, Gilles van Schoonbeke . From Room A. we enter the so-called Historical Section, see p. 159. Room 0. To the right: 413-424 . Worship of the Lamb without spot, old copy of the part of the picture by the brothers Van Eyck now at Ghent(; 81. G. and B. Peeters, Battle of Calloo ( 1638 ) ; 720. Hub. Sporck mans, The town of Antwerp petitioning Emperor Ferdinand to re -open the Schelde for navigation, large allegorical painting ; 735. Nic. van Eyck , a Parade of the city militia in the Place de Meir. Room P. contains almost exclusively modern views of Antwerp . 1005 . Bossuet , Fish -market in Antwerp ; 1042. A. de Keyser , The Steen in the year 1875 ; 1024. F. de Braekeleer, Destruction of the Porte St. Georges ; 1027. F. de Braekeleer, The citadel after the bombardment of 1832; 1025 . F. de Braekeleer, Destruction of the Porte Kipdorp ; 1147. Ph. van Brée, Ruins of the warehouses after the conflagration of 1830 ; 1125. J. Ruyten , The Canal aux Charbons in the year 1875 ; 1108. R. Mols, Harbour of Antwerp in the year 1870 (seen from the Vlaamsch Hoofd ) ; 639. P. J. Bout, Quay with the old crane of Antwerp in the 17th century. - We return through Room 0. into --- Room N. , which contains, besides views of old Antwerp , a number of portraits by unknown masters. To the left of the door into Room J .: 277. Rob . Peril, Entry of Charles V. and Pope Clement VII. into Boulogne in 1530,huge painted wood -cut; 1078. Herreyns, Portrait of Jac. de Bue; 271. J. Peeters, The Schelde atAntwerp in winter ; 635. Unknown Artist, Burning of thé Hôtel de Ville of Antwerp in 1576 ; 607. P. Goetkint ( end of the 16th cent . ) , Destruction of the old citadel of Antwerp ; 636. Un known Artist, Reception of Marie de Médicis at Antwerp ( 1631) ; 681. Jan Mostert, View of the old Hôtel de Ville at Antwerp , with the Trial of Christ ; 633. Unknown Artist , View of old Antwerp. Through Room J. (p. 159) we reach the Gallery of Modern Paintings (Musée Moderne).

Museum . ANTWERP . 15. Route. 167 ܪ Room Q. 1531. Madou , Young man offering a girl a necklace ; 1157. Van Kuyck , Stable ; 1050. Dell'Acqua, The bride's jewels ; 1103. Marinus, Episode in the inundation of the Meuse district in 1872 ; 1059. Douzette, Winter- scene by moonlight ; 1073. Gérard, Wedding-guests ; 1182. Wauters, On the Kasr-el-Nil in Cairo ; 1063. Fourmois, Scene in the Ardennes, near Dinant ; 1012. Clays, Sea near Dort ; 1520. Dyckmans, Blind beggar ; 1140. Van Beers, Portrait of Benoit, the musician ; 1013. Cleyhnens, Interior ; 1183. Wiertz , Contest for the body of Patroclus; 1119. Plumont, Crossing a bridge ; 1134. Stobbaerts, Dogs , 1120. Portaels, Hendrik Conscience; 1131. Stevens, In despair; 1170. Verlat, The painter Lies ; 1070. Geeraerts, Interior of the Dominican church at Antwerp ; 1098. Lies, Prisoners of war ; 1029. H. de Braekeleer, Tavern at Antwerp ; 1099. Lies, " The foe is coming' ; 1110. Munthe, Winter scene ; 1181. Wiertz, Portrait of M. Con stantin van den Nest ; 1100. Lies, Albrecht Dürer crossing the Rhine ; 1083. Koekkoek , Scene near Cleves; 1106. Minguet, Interior of Bruges Cathedral; 1045. A. de Knytt, Village of Chaslepont; 1035. De Bruycker, Afternoon coffee ; 1161. Van Regemorter , Quarrel over cards ; 1028. Braekeleer the Younger , The young artist . Rooř s. 1047, 1018. Latour, The artist and his wife ; 1172. Verlat, Buffalo and lion fighting; 1500. Achenbach , Harbour of Ostend ; 1174 . Verlat, Rising in Antwerp on Aug. 24th , 1577; the shattered statue of the Duke of Alva being dragged through the streets ; 1105. Meyers, On the banks of the Schelde ; 1166. Verboeckhoven , Sheep and hens. Room T. 1127. Schaefels, Battle of Trafalgar ; 1511. Calame, The Wetterhorn ; 1527. Jacobs, Porte d'Aval at Etretat (Normandy) ; 1009. Carpentier , Episode during the Vendean war ; 1006. Bource, Return from fishing ; 1087. Lamorinière, Landscape ; 1094. Leys, Flemish wedding in the 17th cent. ; 1180. Wappers, Mother and child ; 1133. Stobbaerts, Leaving the stable ; 1130. Somers, The proof; 1102. Linnig, Workshop of the Ant werp coppersmith Geert de Winter; 1114. Ooms, Philip II . paying the last honours to Don John of Austria ; 1501. Bendemann, Penelope ; 1549. Ver boeckhoven , On the way to market; 1072. Geets,Joanna the Mad of Castile ; 1533. Navez, Holy family ; 1093. Leys, Rubens at a fête held in his honour at Antwerp ; 1537. Portaels, Judith ; 1148. Van der Ouderaa , Judicial satisfaction . Room U. 1509. Braekeleer, Village- school ; 1122. Rosseels, Neighbour hood of Waesmünster ; 1142. ' Van Brée, Death of Rubens ( painted in 1827) ; 1019. De Block ,' Closing of the school; 1168. Verhaert, Fishwife ; 1036. De Caisne, Mater Dolorosa ; 1129. Somérs, The librarian ; 1179. Dé Vinck, The Netherlandish nobles' before Margaret of Parma; 1014. Col, The barber's shop ; 1181. Wappers, The brothers De Witt awaiting in their prison the entrance of the mob (p . 270); 1021. Braekeleer, Plundering of Antwerp by the Spaniards ( 1576 ); 1121. Robbe, Landscape ; 1021. A. de Braekeleer , Smithy ; 1008. Cap, Episode from the Belgian national festival of 1880 ; 1160. Van Luppen , Autumn scene ; 1165. Verboec n , Cattle ( life-size ); 1003. Beaufaux, The daughter of Herodias waiting for the head of John the Baptist . Room V. 1062. Farasyn, Fish- market in Antwerp ; 1505. Cabanel, Cleopatra ; 1001. Asselberghs, Sunset; 1171. Verlat, Madonna and Child with the four Evangelists ; 1055. De Schampheleer, View of Gouda ; 1173. Verlat, Cart and horses ; 1037. De Caisne, Guardian Angel ( his last work, unfinished ); 1513. N. de Keyser , Charles V. liberating Christian slaves on the capture of Tunis ; 1555. Wappers, The Shulamite maiden (from the Song of Solomon) ; 1511. Robert- Fleury, The dead body of Titian in the Palazzo Barbarigo at Venice; 1044. N. de Keyser, Bull- fight ; 1159. Van Lerius, Lady Godiva riding through the streets of Coventry; 1158. Van Kuyck , Woodcutter ; 1018. De Bièfve, The Compromise of the Netherlandish nobles' in 1566 (p. 92 ) . Room W.Mostly portraits. 1552. Begas,Peter v.Cornelius; 1502. Bendemann , Portrait of himself; 1542.Robert- Fleury, Portrait of himself; 1526. Ingres, Por trait of himself; 1505. Cäbanel, Portrait of himself ; 1515. Portaels, Delaroche, the painter ; 1554. Bendemann , Portrait of the painter Schadow . - Above the door : 1535. Overbeck , Christ escaping from his persecutors ; 1532. Al.Robert, Por 168 Route 15 . ANTWERP. Public Park . trait of the painter Madou ; 1512. Rubio ,Portrait of the painter Calame ; 1553. Schadow , Caritas ; 1528. Joors , Portrait of the painter Jacobs ; 1534. Navez, Portrait of himself; 1514. N. de Keyser, Portrait of himself; 1550. Verboeck hoven , Portrait of himself.

The rest

The Park of the Palais de l'Industrie (Pl. B, 6 ; adm . 1 fr.; band on Mon. and Thurs. 8-10, Sun. 3-5 p.m.), adjoining the Place du Peuple on the S. , occupies the site of the old citadel , built by the Duke of Alva, of which only a few scanty traces now remain .

The proximity of the Schelde and the cool breeze which sets in with flood-tide make this park a charming promenade for summer-even ings. An avenue leads from the entrance to the N. portion of the International Exhibition of 1885, which has been left standing, and in which the band plays in bad weather. The Tonkin House, built by the French government for the accommodation of the productions of the French colonies during the exhibition , now contains the Musée Commercial, Industriel, et Ethnographique. The building is noteworthy but the collections are of little interest. In the neighbourhood is a genuine Dutch tavern , with the announcement ‘ Hier tapt man Winterbier van Oppuirs'. · The park is skirted by the Rue Kroonenburg (Pl . B, 5) , at the W. end of which , near the Schelde, once stood the castle of Kroonenburg, which marked the N.W. limit of the German empire.

Near the centre of the present town, surrounded by the most fashionable new streets, lies the Public Park (Pl . C, D, 4 ). It oc cupies the site of an old lunette, the moats of which have been con verted into an ornamental sheet of water, spanned by a chain-bridge (view). In the W. angle of the Park is a statue of the painter Quinten Massys ( Pl. D, 4) , by H. de Braekeleer, erected in 1883 .

From this point the Avenue Rubens leads to the statue of the painter Hendrik Leys , by J. Ducaju, in the Avenue Louise Marie, in which (to the N.E.) there is also a large Jesuit convent, with a school and church . The Avenue Rubens proceeds thence to the monument ( by Jul . Pecher) erected in 1886 to the painter Jac. Jordaens (Pl . 5) . — The Avenue Van Eyck leads to the Place Loos (Pl. D 5) . The space in front of the church of St. Joseph (see p . 169) is embellished with the Monument Loos, erected in commemoration of the destruction of the old fortifications, which were built during the Spanish domination and existed down to 1859. It consists of a statue of Antwerpia on a lofty base , surrounded with figures representing commerce and navigation . In front is a marble bust of Burgomaster J. F. Loos ( 1848-62). The monument was designed and executed by Jules Pecher. Opposite , at the corner of the Avenue Quentin Massys and the Avenue Plantin ( P1 . D, 4) , is a magnificent house in the Flemish style , recently erected for M. René Moretus de Theux (comp. p. 154) from the designs of J. St iau . The medallions on the facade represent distinguished men connected with thc history of the Plantin printing-house. Wharfs. ANTWERP. 15. Route. 169 Between the Avenue Moretus , which leads hence to the E. , and the Avenue Charlotte , leading to the S.E. , rises the new CHURCH OF ST. JOSEPH (P1, D, 5) , a Romanesque building by Gife. The interior contains fine altars and a handsome pulpit, and is adorned with stained glass and frescoes of the Passion , the latter by Hendricks. At the point where the Avenue Moretus meets the Boule vard Léopold rises the Monument of Van Schoonbeke (Pl . D, 5), one of the most distinguished citizens of Antwerp in the middle of the 15th century . In the Boul. Léopold, opposite the end of the Avenue Charlotte, is a colossal statue , designed by Ducaju , of Bo duognatus, a Belgian chief, who opposed the invasion of JuliusCæsar. The Boulevard Léopold ends on the S.W. at the Chaussée de Malines, opposite the entrance to the Pépinière (Pl . D, 6), or ar boricultural garden, which has been converted into a pleasant park , in the English style, by Keilig, who laid out the grounds at the Bois de la Cambre, near Brussels ( p. 115) . The new Basilique du Sacré Coeur, in the adjacent Avenue de Mérode, built by Bilmeyer and Van Riel, contains some stained - glass windows by L. Lefèvre of Paris and an altar by Armand Calliat of Lyons. To the N.E. of the park , behind the Station de l'Etat , lies the * Zoological Garden ( 'Dierentuin’; Pl. D, 3 , 4 ), which is entered from the Rue Carnot. It was founded in 1843 and then lay out side the town, between it and the suburb of Borgerhout. It is one of the best in Europe (admission 1 fr.). Concerts in summer on Sun. , Tues. , and Thurs, afternoons or evenings . The carnivora are fed daily at 5 p.m. (Sat. excepted), the seals at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. Panorama of the Battle of Wörth (Pl . D, 4) , see p. 138 . The old E. suburb of BORGERHOUT is adorned with a Statue of Carnot, defender of the city in 1811 , situated in the place of the same name (Pl. E, 3). To the N. is a large Hospital (Pl . E, 2) . Visitors who wish to inspect the new and formidable circumvallation of Antwerp may make use of one of the tramway - lines which connect the interior of the city with the various gates, e.g. the Porte de Malines (in the former suburb of Berchem , Pl. E, 7), which is itself interesting in an architectural point of view. The influence of the tide is perceptible on the Schelde a long way above Antwerp, and at the city the difference between high and low water amounts to 12-25 ft. ( ' Bisque die refluo me flumen Scaldis honorat ). Along the river extend the handsome and busy * Wharfs, or Quais , which have undergone since 1881 a process of complete reconstruction and extension . The river , the width of which at Antwerp formerly varied from 900 to 2000 ft ., has been confined to a channel with a uniform width of 1150 ft. and a uniform depth of 25 ft . These alterations, the total cost of which is estimated at 38,275,000 fr. (1,530,0001.), have, along with the new Docks, made Antwerp one of the first harbours in the ld. The quay - frontage is upwards of 2 M. long. The steamers and mer 170 Route 15 . ANTWERP. The Steen . chantmen receive and discharge their cargoes with the aid of gi gantic and noiseless hydraulic cranes , which transfer the goods di rectly to or from the railway -trucks. The cranes are worked by a subterranean aqueduct, which is also used in opening and shutting the sluice- gates, in shunting the trains , etc. There are two engine houses in connection with the aqueduct, one at the N. and one at the S. harbour. Along the quays lie the steamers of the regular lines, which ply at fixed intervals and to definite ports. Among the most interesting are the gigantic transatlantic liners ‘ Friesland' , 'Noordland ', and “Westernland ', belonging to the Red Star Line, which lie at the Quai du Rhin (Pl. B , 1 , 2) . Tickets (50 c. ) admitting visitors to inspect the interior are granted on application at Rue des Peignes 22 ( Pl . B , 4). The fine new steamers of the North German Lloyd, plying to Shanghai and to Sydney, lie at the Quai Van Dyck (P1 . B , 3, 4 ). The picturesque appearance of the town as viewed from the river has unfortunately been much altered by the recent improvements. Almost the only older buildings that have been left standing are the Porte de l'Escaut and the Steen . The Porte de l'Escaut (P1 . B , 4 ), a gateway designed by Rubens and adorned with sculptures by A. Quellin, has been removed from its position on the Quai van Dyck to the Quai Plantin, a little lower down ; it bears an inscription dedicated by the Senatus Popu lusque Antwerpienses’ to the ' Magnus Philippus' (1624). This prince was Philip IV. , great-grandson of the Emp. Charles V. , who reigned from 1621 to 1665 , and under whom Spain entirely lost her prestige, having been deprived of Portugal in 1640, and finally of the Nether lands in 1648. A stone staircase ascends opposite this gateway to the more southerly of the two Promenoirs, which overhang the now inaccessible Hangard and afford an extensive view of the busy shipping in the Schelde, as well as of the Steen (see below) , the cathedral ( p . 141 ), and the Boucheries (p . 148 ). The ascent to the N. Promenoir from this side leads through the Steen . The Steen (Pl . B, 3) originally formed part of the Castle of Antwerp, which remained in the hands of the lords of the soil till 1549, when Charles V. made it over to the burghers of Antwerp. It was afterwards the seat of the Spanish Inquisition . An addition was built in 1889 on the N. , in the style of the original. The interior is occupied by the Muzeum van Oudheden ( daily, 10-4, Sun , and Thurs, free, other days 1 fr. ; stick or umbrella 10 c . , candle for dungeon 10 c. ; catalogue 11/2 fr ., to the Egyptian section 1/2 fr.), a collec tion of antiquities and curiosities from Roman times till the 18th cent handsome furniture of the 15th - 17th cent . , weapons , ivory and wood carvings , ornaments , glass (manufactured in Antwerp after Venetian pat terns) , porcelain, coins, tapestry, costumes, ancient prints, engravings, and old views of Antwerp . The dungeons, 'oubliettes ', etc. , still bear sombre witness to its former history . The old chapel is also 'extant. In a fore court surrounded by a tasteful railing are columns, altars, tombstones, etc. ܕ > Docks. ANTWERP. 15. Route . 171 The * Docks (Pl . B , C, 1, 2 ; visit by steamer see p . 137) lie at the N. end of the town and cover an area of upwards of 250 acres . They are bordered by an extensive net- work of railways, by which about 2500 trucks leave Antwerp harbour daily for different parts of Europe. The Quai Jordaens (Pl . B, 2, 3) leads to the two older basins, the GRAND and PETIT BASSIN , constructed by Napoleon ( 1804-13), at a cost of 13 million francs , in consequence of a decree of 21st July, 1803 , constituting Antwerp the principal naval station of the N.W. coast of France. The small dock is capable of containing 100, and the large one 250 vessels of moderate tonnage. The accommo dation afforded by these docks proving insufficient, the BASSIN DU KATTENDYK , 770 yds . long and 110 yds . wide , was constructed in 1859-60 ; it is connected with the river by a sluice and with the Grand Bassin by the Bassin de Jonction, added in 1869. To the N. of the sluice are several Cales Sèches , or dry docks , connected with the Bassin du Kattendyk by sluice - gates. In the angle between the N. end of the Kattendyk and the dry docks ( Pl. B , 1 ; leave the harbour- steamer at station 5 and cross the bridge) was situated the factory of Corvillain , the explosion in which on Sept. 6 , 1889 wrought such terrible havoc. - To the N.W. are the Bassin Africa and Bassin erica (with enormous cylindrical petroleum - tanks ). The view from this point of the entire length of the quays as far as the S. harbour conveys an excellent idea of the enormous extent of the port and its dependencies. To the E. of the Bassin du Katten dyk lie the Bassin Mexico, the Bassin de la Campine, and the Bassin Asia, all of large dimensions. The Docks are surrounded with large warehouses, one of which, the Maison HANSÉATIQUE, possesses considerable historical interest. This massive and venerable building, 265 ft. long and 213 ft . broad , erected in 1564-8 from the plans of Cornelis de Vriendt, stands between the two older docks and was originally employed as the warehouse of the Hanseatic cities . It bears the inscription : Sacri Romani Imperii Domus Hansæ Teutonicæ , with the armorial bear ings of the three cities of the League. It is named the 'Osterlings huis' by the Flemings. In 1863 it was ceded by the Hanseatic towns to the Belgian government, as an equivalent for all river- dues exi gible from their vessels. The largest warehouse is the ENTREPÔT ROYAL (Pl . C , 3 ), to the E. of the Grand Bassin , erected in 1829-32 at a cost of 3,680,000 fr. as a royal custom -house and bonded ware house, but purchased by the town for 31/2 million francs. The powerful steam- elevators here are interesting. A good survey of Antwerp is obtained from Vlaamsch Hoofd, or Tête de Flandre (Restaurant Kursaal; Belvedere, farther down) , on the left bank of the Schelde, to which a steamer crosses every 1/4 hr. (Pl. B, 3) . Tickets (15 c. ) obtained under the Promenoirs of the Quai Van Dyck . Napoleon considered this a more advantageous 172 Route 16. ROOSENDAAL. From Antwerp site than that of Antwerp, and proposed building a town here . Pleasant walk downstream on the dyke between the Schelde and the polder. Railway through the Waesland to Ghent, see p . 63. During the siege of Antwerp in 1832 (p . 139) the Dutch cut through the dyke above Vlaamsch Hoofd , thereby laying the whole of the sur rounding country, even the high-road, under three feet of water, so that no vehicle could reach the tête -de-pont of Antwerp . Twelve Dutch gun boats cruised over the polders or fields , which lie much lower than the sea- level . In this condition the environs remained for three years. The soil, covered with sea- sand by the action of the tides , and impregnated with salt, was rendered quite unfit for cultivation, and in many places resembled the sea - shore. The restoration of he dyke alone cost 2,000,000 fr . The Polygone de Brasschaet (steam -tramway, p. 137 , No. 12), a large artillery-range, 10 M. to the N.E. of Antwerp, may be visited only with permission of the minister of war. About 21 M. to the N.E. of Antwerp and about 10 m. from Turn hout ( p . 135 ; steam -tramway , p. 137 , No. 10 ) , lies Hoogstraten ( Hótel de la Campine), a village with 2000 inhab. , the centre of the Cam pine Anversoise, or moorland district round Antwerp (see below ). The late -Gothic Church of St. Catharine is an interesting brick building of the first half of the 16th century. The choir and transept contain beautiful stained glass of 1520-50 , restored in 1816 ; fine stalls ; and the alabaster tomb of Count Lalaing -Hoogstraten (d . 1540 ), the founder of the church, and his wife. The Hôtel de Ville, dating from the end of the 16th cent. , is a plain brick structure in the Renaissance style. The old Château , now a poor- house, lies on the brook Marck, a little to the N. of the village .

16. From Antwerp to Rotterdam .

a. Railway Journey. 59 M. RAILWAY in 31/2-4 hrs.; fares 8 fr . 90, 6 fr. 70, 4 fr. 75 c . ( or 4 11 . 75, 3 1. 75, 2 n. 45 c . ) . The only points of interest on the line are the handsome bridges over the Hollandsch Diep, the Maas at Dordrecht, and the Lek at Rotterdam . The train starts from the central station , traverses the suburb of Borgerhout, passes the station Anvers - Dam , near the docks, and intersects the new fortifications . 7 M. Eeckeren , with numerous villas of well- to - do Antwerp merchants . We then traverse the mono tonous moorlands of the Campine Anversoise . 71/2 M. Cappellen, also with several country -seats . About 31/2 M. to the N.W., just beyond the Dutch frontier, lies the village of Putten , in the church yard of which is buried Jacob Jordaens ( d. 1678 ), the painter, who was denied a grave within the territory of Antwerp owing to his having been a Protestant ; the old tombstone is still preserved , and a bronze bust by Lambeaux was set up in 1877. – 13 M. Calmp thout . — 18 M. Esschen (Belgian custom -house ). 23 M. Roosendaal, the seat of the Dutch custom -house , and junction for the Breda and Flushing line ( R. 35). The railway next traverses a wooded district. 28 M. Ouden bosch , with a new domed church ; 33 M. Zevenbergen. · ( The Bel gian Grand Central Railway goes on to the Moerdyk on the Hollandsch Diep. ) — 38 M. Lage- Zwaluwe, where the line joins the Maastricht Rotterdam Railway, see p . 376. Branch -lines also run hence to the to Rotterdam. CALLOO. 16. Route . 173 Moerdyk, and viâ Geertruidenberg, Waspik, Kaatsheuvel -Capelle, and Waalwyk to Vlymen, whence a diligence plies to S'Hertogen bosch (p. 360). b . Steamboat Journey . STEAMBOAT on Tues., Thurs., and Sat. in 9 hrs . (21/2 or 11/2 fl. ) from the Quai Van Dyck (Pl. B, 3 ), morning tide . The steamers are well fitted up, and provided with restaurants. Agents at Antwerp, Van Maenen & Vandenbroeck, Quai St. Aldegonde 38 (Pl. B , 2 ) ; at Rotterdam , Verwey & Co. , Boompjes (Pl . F, 3) . In stormy weather the voyage is rough at places. The STEAMBOAT threads its way between the nine islands form ing the Dutch province of ZEELAND , the character of which is indicated by its heraldic emblem of a swimming lion , with the motto : Luctor et Emergo. The greater part of the province , probably form ed by the alluvial deposits of the Schelde, which here enters the sea, lies considerably below the sea- level , the only natural elevation being a few dunes , or sand-hills on the W. coast of the Islands of Schouwen and Walcheren . The rest of the province is protected against the encroachment of the sea by vast embankments, the aggre gate length of which extends to 300 M. The land is extremely fer tile and admirably cultivated, producing abundant crops of wheat and other grain . Immediately after the departure of the steamboat , the passenger obtains a final view of Antwerp, extending in a wide curve along the bank of the Schelde . To the W. of the docks rises Fort Austru weel or Oosterweel. Near the docks, in 1831, Lieutenant van Speyk , a gallant Dutch naval officer, sacrificed his life in vindication of the honour of his flag. A storm had driven his gunboat on shore, and a crowd of Belgians imme diately hastened to the spot to secure the prize, calling on the command er to haul down his colours and surrender. The devoted Van Speyk, preferring death to capture, fired his pistol into the powder -magazine, which exploded instantaneously , involving friends and foes, as well as himself, in one common destruction. Farther on, Fort Calloo rises on the left and Fort St. Philippe on the right. At this point, between Calloo on the left and Oorderen on the right bank , Duke Alexander Farnese constructed his celebrated bridge across the Schelde, in 1585, during the siege of Antwerp ( see p . 139) . All communication between the besieged and their confederates in Zeeland was thus entirely broken off. The citizens used every means in their power to destroy this formidable barrier , which was defended by numerous guns . After many fruitless attempts , the fire - ship of the Italian engineer Giambelli at length set the bridge on fire , and blew up a portion of it so unexpectedly that 800 Spaniards lost their lives. The besieged , however , were not in a position to derive any advantage from this signal success , and their auxiliary fleet anchored below Fort Lillo was too weak to attack the enemy single - handed. The damage to the bridge was speedily repaired , and Antwerp, notwithstanding a most obstinate defence, was shortly afterwards reduced by famine. - Fort Frédéric is now seen on the right. On the left, lower down, lies Fort Lief 174 Route 16 . WILLEMSTAD . kenshoek, on the right Fort Lillo , both retained by the Dutch till 1839 (comp. p . xix) . Then, on the left bank, Doel, a little beyond which is the Dutch frontier. The first Dutch place at the entrance to the Kreekrak, a nar row branch of the Schelde which was filled up when the railway embankment was constructed ( p . 246 ), is Fort Bath, where the English fleet landed in 1809. The steamer continues to skirt the S. coast of the island of Zuid - Beveland, and at Hansweerd turns to the right into the Zuid- Beveland Canal, which intersects the island , having been constructed in 1866 to compensate for the filling up of the Kreekrak. The E. coast of the island of S. Beveland, called the ' Verdronken Land' (literally drowned land '), once a fertile tract , was inundated in 1532 by the bursting of a dyke , when 3000 persons are said to have perished . At the N. end of the canal, which is 5 M. in length , and is crossed by the railway to Goes ( p . 245) , lies Wemeldingen, the landing -place for Goes. At Yerseke, 3 M. to the E. , oyster-breeding is carried on with success. The steamer now traverses the broad expanse of the Ooster Schelde in a N. direction, and enters the narrow Canal de Keeten , which separates the islands of Tholen and Duiveland. To the right , at the entrance, lies Stavenisse, the landing-place for Tholen , a small town on the E. side of the island, connected with Bergen op Zoom by ferry and steam-tramway (p . 246) . The old church of Stavenisse contains the marble monument of Jerome van Tuyll ( 1669 ; by Verhulst). The vessel next touches at Zype, on the left , at the end of the canal , whence an omnibus runs to Zierikzee ( Hôtel Van Oppen ) ; the lofty square tower of the cathedral (begun in 1454 by Kelder mans, p. 244 ; still unfinished ) is a conspicuous object. From Zierik zee wemay visit Brouwershaven, another small town with an inter esting church, a pretty weigh - house in the Flemish Renaissance style (1599) , and a statue of the popular poet Jacob Cats ( 1577 1660) . To the right is the island of Philippsland. In 1575 the Canal de Keeten was the scene of a famous exploit by 1700 Spanish volunteers under Requesens, the successor of the Duke of Alva, who crossed it with intrepid bravery, partly by wading and partly by means of small boats , notwithstanding the incessant and galling fire of the Flemish defenders of the island ., many of whom crowded round the assailants in boats. The capture of Zierikzee was the reward of this determined attack. We now quit the ramifications of the Schelde, and enter those of the Maas, the first of which is the Krammer, and the next the Volkerak. The towers of Nieuwe - Tonge and Oude- Tonge are now visible to the N.E. The right bank belongs to Brabant, the left to Holland. The entrance to the Hollandsch Diep, as this broad arm is named, is defended by two blockhouses, Fort de Ruyter on the right, and Fort Ooltgensplaat on the left. Willemstad, a fortress with walls and ramparts erected by Prince William I. of Orange in 1583, next becomes visible . In 1792 it was bombarded by the French for a fortnight without success . LIERRE . 17. Route. 175 The steamer traverses the Hollandsch Diep for some distance. The water here is sometimes pretty rough . Nearing the Moerdyk (p . 172) , we obtain a view of the handsome railway -bridge which crosses the Diep from the Moerdyk to Willemsdorp ( see p . 376) . The steamer now turns to the left into the Dordsche Kil, a very narrow branch of the Maas. In 1711 , John William , Prince of Orange, was drowned in crossing the Diep at the Moerdyk , when on his way to the Hague to meet Frederick William I. of Prussia , with a view to adjust the difficulties of the Orange succession . Soon after we enter the broad Merwede ( p . 374). Numerous wind -mills and tall chimneys are now observed , the latter belonging chiefly to saw mills and cement works. Before reaching Dordrecht the steamer passes below the railway -bridge mentioned at p . 376. Dordrecht, with its lofty church - tower, see p. 376. The steamer (to Rotterdam 1 hr.) now leaves the Merwede and enters a side - channel called De Noord . On the right are Alblasser dam , with large ship-building yards , and Kinderdyk,with ship -build ing yards and iron foundries . At the latter the Nord unites with the Lek , which now resumes the name of Maas. To the right, Krimpen , with a pointed spire ; left, ' t Huis ten Donk, a handsome country-house surrounded with trees ; left , Ysselmonde (p . 378) , with its castle ; right, Kralingen , with 12,000 inhab ., extensively engaged in salmon - fishing; left, the large machine-factory of Feyen oord (p . 255) . Rotterdam , see p . 246 . , 17. From Antwerp to Aix - la - Chapelle viâ Maastricht. 91 M. Railway in 41/2-5 hrs . ( fares 12 fr. 90, 9 fr. 90, 6 fr . 50 c .; in the opposite direction 10 marks 30 , 7 m . 90 , 5 m. 20 pf. ). The Dutch custom -house examination takes place at Maastricht, the German at Air la - Chapelle ; in the reverse direction the Dutch examination is made at Simpelfeld , the Belgian at Lanaeken. Antwerp, see p . 136. 51/2 M. Bouchout. — 81/2 M.Lierre, Flem . Lier (Hôt. du Commerce, Grand Place, R., L., & A. 21/2, B. 3/4 , D. 2, S. 11/4, pens . 6 fr. ), a town of 16,700 inhab ., with several silk -factories. The Church of St. Gommarius, one of the finest late - Gothic churches in Belgium , begun in 1425 , completed in 1557, contains several fine stained -glass windows, three of which were presented by the Emp. Maximilian ; two paintings by Rubens (St. Francis and St. Clara) ; the 'châsse' of St. Gommarius ; and a rood- loft (15th cent. ) in the florid Flamboyant style . The facades of the Brouwershuis and other houses in the market-place , and the belfry with a turret (1369) are interesting. The new Museum con tains about 500 paintings, bequeathed to the town by Mme, van Kampen-Wuyts. Lierre was at one time noted for its beer. Lierre is the junction of the Antwerp and Gladbach line (R. 18) and of a branch to Contich (p . 135) . 176 Route 17 . HASSELT. 14 M. Berlaer . 161/2 M. Heyst-op -den - Berg, whence a steam tramway runs W. to Malines and E. to Iteghem (p . 135). 201/2 M. Boisschot, whence visits may be paid to the château of Westerloo (41/2 M. to the N.E.) , belonging to Count von Merode, and to the Præmonstratensian abbey of Tongerloo , with the largest linden tree in Belgium. 251/2 M. Aerschot on the Demer, where the railway crosses the Louvain and Herenthals line (p . 195), with a Gothic church containing a rich rood- loft and handsome choir-stalls of the 15th cent., and an altar-piece by G. de Crayer. The line now follows the valley of the Demer. 311/2 M. Testelt, with the Præmonstratensian abbey of Averbode, founded in 1130. 331/2 M. Sichem, whence omnibuses run to the pilgrimage-church of ( 11/2 M.) Notre Dame de Montaigu. Sichem still retains one of its ancient towers . 361/2 M. Diest (Hôtel de la Couronne ; Hôt. du Sauvage) , with 7300 inhab ., and many breweries and distilleries . In the Gothic church of St. Sulpice is the tomb of Philip of Nassau- Orange (d . 1618 ) ; in the churchyard is a ruined church. Diest is the junction of a branch - line from Tirlemont ( p . 195 ) to Moll (p. 177) . The train crosses the Demer. 391/2 M. Zeelhem ; 43 M. Schuelen ; 47 M. Kermpt. 491/2 M. Hasselt ( Hôtel du Verre à Vin ; Hôt. Limbourg) , the capital of the province of Limburg, with 11,800 inhab., was the scene of a victory gained by the Dutch over the Belgians on 6th Aug. , 1831. The late - Gothic chief church has been well restored . From HASSELT TO MAASEYCK , 251/2 M., railway in 11/4 hr. Inter mediate stations : Genck, Asch, Eelen. The small town of Maaseyck ( Hót. de l'Agneau ), on the left bank of the Meuse, was the birthplace of the brothers Van Eyck, to whom a handsome marble monument was erected here in 1864. Diligence several times daily to ( 1 hr.) Susteren ( p . 372 ). From Hasselt to Liège, see R. 49 ; to Eindhoven and Utrecht, see R. 49. 531/2 M. Diepenbeek ; 56 M. Beverst , the junction of the line to Liège and Utrecht ( p . 360) ; 581/2 M. Munsterbilsen ; 61 M. Eygen bilsen ; 63 M. Lanaeken, the Belgian frontier - station . 68 M. Maastricht, see p . 219. Route to Liège , see R. 28. The Meuse is crossed here. 71 M. Meersen ; 75 M. Valkenburg, French Fauquemont ( Hôtel de l'Empereur, in the town ; Hôt. Vossen, at the station) , an attrac tive little town , situated in the centre of the picturesque valley of the Geul and frequented as a summer - resort, with an interesting Romanesque church , two well - preserved gates, and a ruined castle ( 10 c . ). In the ' Grosse Berg opposite the station are some inter esting caves resembling those in the Petersberg ( p. 220) . Tickets of admission are obtained ( 11/2 fl. for one or more pers.) in the ad joining restaurant. 79 M. Wylre; 821/2 M. Simpelfeld, with the Dutch custom -house. 91 M.'Aix -la - Chapelle, see Baedeker's Rhine. 177 7 18. From Antwerp to München -Gladbach for Düsseldorf). 98/2 M. RAILWAY in 4-41/2 hrs. (fares 14 fr. 60, 11 fr. 30, 7 fr. 40 c .; in the opposite direction 11 m . 80 , 9 m . 25, 5 m. 10pf.). From Antwerp to (81/2 M.) Lierre, see R. 17. 11 M. Nylen ; 15 M. Bouwel. 184/2 M. Herenthals , on the Canal de la Campine, the junction of the line to Louvain (p . 197 ) and Tilburg (p . 375 ). The Hôtel de Ville, with a lofty tower, and one of the old town gates are inter esting. The church of St. Waltrudis (15th cent. ) contains paintings by Verhaeghe and Franck the Elder. — 221/2 M. Oolen . 26 M. Gheel ( Hôtel de l'Agneau) , a town of 10,000 inhab ., which derives its principal interest from the colony of lunatics ( about 1300 in number) established here and in the neighbouring villages . The district throughout which they are distributed is about 30 M.in circumference, and divided into four sections , each with a physician and keeper. The patients are first received into the Infirmerie, where their symptoms are carefully observed for a time, after which they are entrusted to the care of a nourricier, or hôte, who generally provides occupation for them. They are per mitted to walk about without restraint within the limits of their district, unless they have shown symptoms of violence or a desire to escape. This excellent and humane system , although appre hensions were at one time entertained as to its safety , has always been attended with favourable results . The handsome late Gothic Church of St. Dymphna ( who is said to have been an Irish princess , converted to Christianity , and beheaded at this spot by her heathen father) contains a fine * Altar , with the apotheosis of the saint. The choir contains the fine marble sarcophagus of Jan 1II. of Merode and his wife, dating from the Renaissance (1554 ); and in the ambulatory is the reliquary of the saint, painted with scenes from her life, probably by a contemporary of Memling. In the choir - chapels are two curious old * Cabinets, adorned with finely executed carving and painting . A painted group in stone , protected by a railing, in the vicinity of the church , bears a Flemish inscrip tion, recording that St. Dymphna was beheaded on this spot, 30th May, 600. The town originally owed its reputation for the success ful cure of lunatics to this saint, whose shrine was believed to pos sess miraculous powers . The church of St. Amand, in the market place , contains finely carved choir-stalls . 32M. Moll, the junction of a line to Diest and Tirlemont (see p. 176 ). 35 M.Baelen - Wezel ; 41 M. Lommel. 461/2 M. Neerpelt , the junction of the Hasselt - Utrecht line (p . 360) . 49 M. Lille - St. Hubert - Achel . 52 M. Hamont, the last Belgian station ( custom - house ). · At (531/2 M.) Budel, the first station in Holland, luggage is examined by Dutch custom house officers . - 59 M. Weert ; 67 M. Baexem ; 70 M. Haelen . BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 12 > 178 Route 19 . BRAINE-LE- COMTE. 74 M. Roermond, the junction for the Maastricht - Venlo line, see p . 372. 78 M. Melick - Herkenbosch. 821/2 M. Vlodrop , the last station in Holland, with the Dutch custom-house. 841/2 M. Dalheim, the Prussian frontier - station (luggage examined) . 89 M. Weg berg ; 92 M. Rheindahlen ; 96 M. Rheydt, where the line to Aix -la Chapelle diverges to the right. 98/2 M. Gladbach , or München -Gladbach, see Baedeker's Rhine. 19. From Brussels to Braine - le - Comte and Mons. 38 M. RAILWAY in 1 hr. 3 min. or 2 hrs. ( fares 4 fr . 65 , 3 fr. 50, 2 fr . 35 c . ; express 5 fr. 80 , 4 fr. 35, 2 fr. 90 c . ) . Trains start from the Station du Midi at Brussels (p. 72) . From Brussels to ( 9 M.) Hal, see p . 70. The Mons train di verges here to the S. from the Tournai line ( R. 11 ) . 10 M, Lem becq (branch-line to Ecaussines , see p . 181). 12 M. Tubize, Flem . Tweebeek , is the junction of branch-lines to Rognon (p. 181 ) and Braine - l'Alleud (p. 130). Paving - stones are largely exported from the quarries near Tubize. Tunnel. 15 M. Hennuyères. 19 M. Braine-le - Comte, Flem. ’ S Graven Brakel, a town with 7300 inhabitants. The parish -church contains a large altar-deco ration , with numerous figures, resembling that of Hal (p . 70), but inferior and of later date . Braine-le-Comte is the junction of the Enghien -Grammont-Ghent (p . 181 ), the Manage-Charleroi (p . 182), and the Brussels -Erquelinnes lines, which last follows the direction described in R. 20 to station Ecaussines, and then proceeds to the S. viâ Houdeng, Haine - St. Pierre, and Fauræulx . From Braine-le Comte to Erquelinnes, 26 M. — The next station in the direction of Jurbise and Mons is 221/2 M. Soignies, a town with 7900 inhab., possessing a vener able abbey -church (St. Vincent) in the Romanesque style , perhaps the most ancient building in the kingdom , founded about 650, and erected in its present form in the 12th century. Many of the tomb stones in the churchyard date from the 13th and 14th centuries . Extensive quarries of mountain-limestone in the neighbourhood. Branch-line to Houdeng and Haine - St. Pierre (p. 181). The line then describes a wide curve , in a direction nearly opposite to that of Mons. 26 M. Neufvilles ; 271/2 M. Masnuy. 301/2 M. Jurbise, where the connecting lines to Ath - Tournai ( p . 69) and St. Ghislain (p . 180) diverge. 38 M. Mons. Hotels. COURONNE, in the market, D. 2 fr.; HÔTEL Schmitz , MONARQUE, AVENIR, all near the station and very unpretending. Café Royal ; Café Rubens; Taverne Allemande (Munich beer), etc .; all in the market. -- STEAM - TRAMWAYS viâ Nimy and Maisières to Casteau ; to St. Symphorien ; and to Ghlin. Mons, Flem . Bergen, on the Trouille , the capital of Hainault, with 25,800 inhab ., owes its origin to a fortress erected here by Cæsar during his campaigns against the Gauls. The town was fortified by MONS. 19. Route . 179 Jean d'Avesnes in the 14th century . Prince Louis of Orange took Mons by surprise on 24th May, 1572, and maintained it against the Duke of Alva till 19th September, thus giving the northern provin ces an opportunity of shaking off the Spanish yoke. The town was captured by Louis XIV. in 1691 , restored to the Spaniards in 1697, and again occupied by the French from 1700 to 1707. It fell into the possession of Austria in 1714, and was twice afterwards taken by the French, in 1746 and 1792. The fortifications, which were dismantled by the Emp. Joseph II . , but reconstructed in 1818, were again removed in 1862, and their site converted into a pleasant promenade. In the promenade, near the station, rises a Statue of Leopold I., by Simonis , erected in 1877. The most interesting edifice at Mons is the late-Gothic CATHB DRAL OF ST. WALTRUDIS (Ste. Waudru ), situated on the left as the town is entered from the station . It was begun about 1450 from a design by Matthew de Layens, the architect of the Hôtel de Ville at Liège, and his assistant Gilles Pole. The choir was completed in 1502, the transept in 1519, and the nave in 1589 ( with finishing touches added in 1621). The projected tower was never built, and the church possesses only a small spire above the crossing and Gothic turrets on the transept. The exterior was formerly somewhat dis figured by later additions, but these have been removed and the building skilfully restored within the last 40 years . The INTERIOR, which is 355 ft. long, 116 ft. wide, and 80 ft . high, is a model of boldness and elegance. The slender clustered columns, 60 in number, are without capitals, rising immediately to the vaulting and keystones. The church contains several monumental reliefs of the 15th and 16th centuries, those of the latter period being by Jacob Dubroucq ;. some good stained glass of 1523 ( Crucifixion, Maximilian and his son Philip the Handsome; Flight into Egypt, with Maximilian's wife, Mary ofBurgundy, his daughter Margaret, and their patron- saints), restored by Capronnier; and several pictures by Vaenius, Van Thulden , and other artists. A chapel in the ambulatory, to the left, contains a handsome altar of the middle of the 16th cent., with reliefs from the life of Mary Magdalene. Traversing the Rue des Clercs , opposite the choir of the cathe dral , and thenascending to the left and passing through a gateway, we reach the highest ground in the town , formerly crowned with fortifications on the alleged site of Caesar's Castrum, and now laid out as a promenade. Fine views of the busy environs of Mons. To the right rises the Beffroi, or belfry, 275 ft. high, belonging to the old palace, which is now fitted up as a lunatic asylum . The tower, which is the only belfry in Belgium built entirely in the Renais sance style , was erected in 1662 from a design by Louis Ledoux, and was restored in 1864 by Sury. It contains a 'carillon ', or set of chimes. Adjacent is the reservoir of the city waterworks. The centre of the town is formed by the Grande Place, in which rises the * HÔTEL DE VILLB, a tasteful late-Gothic edifice, erected in 1458-67, but never quite completed. The slated roof was added in 1606, the rococo tower by Louis Ledoux in 1662. The small wrought - iron ape on the staircase to the left of the main entrance 12 * 180 Route 19. MONS. probably once formed part of a tavern -sign , but is now regarded as one of the emblems of the town. The courtyard is interesting. INTERIOR. One room contains a collection of portraits of eminent natives of Mons. The Gothic Room, recently restored with little success , is embellished with three large paintings of scenes from the history of the town, by Paternostre, Modeste Carlier, and Hennebicq. Another room is adorned with tapestry after Teniers . On the right and left of the Hôtel de Ville are two buildings with Renaissance façades , the Maison de la Toison d'Or and the chapel of St. George . A grand fête, called ' La Parade du Li maçon' or ' du Lumson ', is celebrated in the Grande Place on Trinity Sunday. The Library, in the Rue des Gades , possesses 40,000 printed works and numerous MSS. adorned with miniatures . The same build ing contains insignificant collections of antiquities and paintings . The church of St. Elisabeth presents a curious mixture of the Gothic and Renaissance styles . The boulevards and promenades that surround the old town are about 3 M. in length . Besides the statue of Leopold I. , men tioned at p . 179, they contain a handsome monument by Frison, erected in 1853 to the memory of the celebrated composer Orlando di Lasso, or Roland de Lettre, who was born at Mons in 1520 , and an equestrian statue, by Jacquet, of Baldwin IX . of Hainault and Flanders (d . 1205 ), who took part in the fourth Crusade and be came emperor of Constantinople. Near this statue is a public garden called Vauxhall (adm. 1 /2-1 fr . ) . Among the buildings on the boulevards are a large Hospital, a Prison , and a Normal Seminary for teachers in elementary schools . Mons is the centre of a great coal-mining district, known as Le Borinage. The annual yield of the mines of Hainault amounts to about 12 million tons, valued at 120 million francs, while the whole yield of Belgium does not exceed 16 million tons. Of the 100,000 miners in Belgium three - fourths belong to Hainault. A general survey of the country around Mons may be obtained by taking the train to ( 121/2 M.; in 40 min .) Quiévrain (see below ) viâ Jemappes, Quaregnon , St. Ghislain (once the seat of a wealthy Bernardine abbey, now a centre of the coal-trade ), Boussu (with the castle of that name to the right) , and Thulin . From Quiévrain we return to Mons viâ Elouges, Dour, Warquignies, Was mes , Pâturages, Flenu (with one of the richest coal- fields ), and Cuesmes ( in 55 min. ). At Jemappes ( see above) , Dumouriez, with an army of 50,000 men, defeated 22,000 Austrians under the Duke of Saxe-Teschen, who was com pelled to retreat beyond the Meuse, 6th Nov., 1792. Near Malplaquet, 3 M. to the S.E.,Marlborough and Prince Eugene gained a victory over the French in 1709, but not without a loss of nearly 20,000 men . In the vicinity , Pichegru defeated the Duke of York on 18th May, 1794, capturing 60 guns and 1500 men. FROM MONS TO Paris there are two railways . The more direct is by Feignies , St. Quentin , Noyon, Compiègne, and Creil ( 160 M. , fares 30 fr. 10, 22 fr. 60 c . ) . The other line leads viâ' st. Ghislain , Quievrain (see above; GRAMMONT. 20. Route. 181 Belgian customs- examination ),Blanc-Misseron (French customs-examination), Valenciennes, Douai, Arras, Longueau (Amiens) , and Creil ( 177 M.; fares 35 fr . 40, 26 ' fr. 55 c. ) . From Mons to Manage, see below . From MONS TO CHARLEROI, 351/2 M., railway in 2 hrs. (fares 4 fr. 35, 3 fr . 25 , 2 fr . 20 c . ) . Stations Cuesmes, Hyon, Harmignies, Estinnes ; ( 121/2 M.) Fauroulx , whence a branch -line leads to Erquelinnes (p. 178 ) , 131/2 M. Bonne- Espérance; 16 M. Binche, a pretty town with 7500 inhab., where the female part of the community is chiefly engaged in the manufacture of ‘ fleurs à plat for the Brussels lace -makers ; 21 M.Haine- St. Pierre, con nected by means of a branch- line with La Louvière (see below ). Near ( 23 M.) Mariemont are the ruins of a château erected by the regent Mary of Hungary in 1548 , but urned down six years later by Henry II. of France, and a modern château. StationsMorlanwelz , Carnières, Piéton (branch- lines to Manage, see below ; to Luttre, see p. 130 ; and to Faureulx viâ Merbes- Ste. Marie, see above ), Fontaine l'Evêque, Marchienne, and Charleroi ( see p. 183 ). 20. From Ghent to Charleroi and Namur viâ Braine-le- Comte. RAILWAY to Charleroi ( 661/2 M.) in 21/2-33/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr ., 6 fr , 4 fr . ) ; to Namur (894/2 M.) in 31/4-51/2 hrs. ( 10 fr. 5, 7 fr . 55, 4 fr . 15c.). Ghent, see p. 34. The train crosses the Schelde, and beyond Meirelbeke and Melle diverges to the S. from the Brussels line (R. 3) . The first stations are unimportant. 14 M. Sotteghem, where the railway crosses the Brussels and Courtrai line (p. 33) . 151/2 M. Erweteghem ; 181/2 M. Lierde- Ste. Marie. 221/2M.Grammont, Flem. Gheeraardsbergen , an industrial place with 9200 inhab ., on the slope of a hill , the junction of the Dender leeuw - Ath - Jurbise line ( p. 69). The Hôtel de Ville contains an early-Flemish painting of Christ as the Judge of the earth, and the church of St. Barthélemy possesses two pictures by De Crayer. The train enters the province of Hainault. Stations Viane Moerbeke, Gammerages, Hérinnes. At (33 M.) Enghien (p . 70 ) our line is crossed by the Brussels and Tournai railway ( R. 11 ). From (37 M.) Rognon a branch diverges to Tubize (p . 178 ) . 401/2 M. Braine- le - Comte (p . 178 ). The line to Charleroi and Namur now diverges from that to Mons (R. 19) . Carriages are sometimes changed here. 441/2 M. Ecaussines possesses extensive quarries of blue lime stone, which is cut in slabs and exported under the name of Flemish granite . Of the two castles here, the most picturesque is the Château de Lalaing (10th cent. ) , situated on a precipitous cliff. Railways hence to Faureuls and Erquelinnes and to Lembecq (p. 178) . Beyond Marche - les - Ecaussines and Familleureux the train crosses the Charleroi Canal, and near Manage enters a rich coal- district. 50 M. Manage is the junction of our line with those to Mons, Piéton (see above ), and Ottignies. FROM MANAGE TO Mons , 15 M., railway in 1 hr. ( fares 1 fr . 85 , 1 fr. 40, 95 c.). This branch- line intersects a valuable coal- field , called “ Le Centre', the yield of which is brought into the market by means of an extensive network of railways . In connection with the coal-mines there 182 Route 20. QUATREBRAS. From Ghent is a rapidly increasing iron -industry. Stations La Louvière (branch to Haine- St. Pierre, see p . 181 ), Bois- du -Luc, Bracquegnies, all with extensive mines ; then Havré, where the old château of that name rises to the left, Obourg, noted for its tobacco, and Nimy. The Haine, a rivulet from which the province derives its name ( Hainault), is occasionally visible. Mons, see p. 178. The MANAGE AND WAVRE RAILWAY (26 M., in 11 /4-2 hrs.; fares 3 fr. 10, 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 55 c . ) is the prolongation of this line to the N. , but the trains do not always correspond . At ( 21/2 M.) Seneffe a battle was fought in 1674 between Prince Condé and William III . of Orange; and the Austrians were defeated here by the French under Marceau and Olivier on 2nd July, 1794. - 5 M. Feluy - Arquennes. 81/2 M. Nivelles- Nord, to the N. of Nivelles (p. 130) ; 91/2 M. Baulers, the junction of this line with that from Brussels to Luttre and Charleroi ( p . 130). 14 M. Genappe ( Hotel des Voyageurs ), a village with 1680 inhab. , is frequently mentioned in connection with the Battle of Waterloo (comp. p. 116) . About 4 M. to the S. is situated Quatrebras, which derives its name from the ' four arms' of the roads diverging hence to Charleroi, Nivelles, Brussels, and Namur. Here on 16th June , 1815 , a battle was fought between Ney's division and a part of the British army with its Ger man and Belgian contingents. The French numbered about 17,000 men, the Allies 18,000 ; but of the latter 8000 only were British and German, and on the remaining 10,000 no reliance whatever could be placed . Practi cally, therefore, the Allies were far outnumbered. At first, shortly after 2 p.m., the success of the French , who were opposed by the Belgians only , was complete ; but their progress was soon arrested by the British and German troops, and the battle raged with the utmost fury till dusk . Prodigies of valour were, as usual, performed by the 93rd Highlanders; and most of the German troops (Hanoverians and Brunswickers) behaved with great bravery, although young and inexperienced. At one juncture the Duke of Wellington himself became involved, and only escaped by putting his horse to full gallop. About 4 o'clock the gallant Duke of Brunswick fell , while endeavouring to rally his troops. Towards the close of the battle the tide of success turned decidedly in favour of the Allies. Ney, to his great indignation , now learned that Erlon's corps , which had at first been ordered to support him , and would doubtless have ensured the victory to the French , had received fresh orders from Napoleon to move towards St. Amand ' to oppose the Prussians there. The brave marshal's discomfiture was complete, his troops were totally defeated , and under cover of the increasing darkness they retreated to their original position at Frasne. The village of Frasne, the headquarters of Ney on 16th June, lies 3/4 M. beyond Quatrebras, in the direction of Charleroi. The spirited pursuit of the French by the Prussians on the night after the Battle of Waterloo extended thus far, more than 6 M. from the battle- field . The ruined abbey of Villers (p . 202) lies 3 m. to the W. of Genappe. 161/2 M. Bousval ; 181/2 M. Noirhat; 2012 M. Court St. Etienne (p . 202 ), where the train reaches Charleroi the and Louvain line. 224/2 M. Ottignies. Thence to Wavre and Louvain , see p. 202. Beyond Manage are stations Godarville, Gouy -lez - Piéton , Pont à - Celles, and (571/2 M.) Luttre (p . 130) . The train traverses a more hilly district, describing numerous curves , and crossing the Char leroi Canal several times . Beyond a deep cutting, a beautiful un dulating and wooded district is entered. Near (61 M.) Gosselies is the town of that name on an eminence (branch to Courcelles and Piéton , p. 181) ; 62 M. Roux; 631/2 M. Marchienne, near which lies the ruined Gothic church of the famous abbey of Aulne. Various adjacent places were the scene of sharp skirmishes between the Prussians and French on 15th June, 1815, the day before the battle of Ligny ( p . 202), a village which lies 41/2 M. to the N.E. of Gosselies. to Namur. CHARLEROI. 20. Route. 183 The environs of Marchienne and Charleroi are remarkable for their picturesque scenery and industrial activity. Wooded hills , thriving villages, and well-cultivated fields are passed in rapid suc cession, while the lofty chimneys of coal-mines, furnaces , iron foundries, and glass- works are seen in every direction . There are no fewer than seventy different seams of coal in the vicinity of Char leroi, some of which extend to a depth of 3000 to 4000 ft. The line now reaches the Sambre, which it crosses repeatedly before arriving at Namur. 661/2 M. Charleroi (* Hôtel Dourin ; Grand-Monarque; Univers ; Hôt. des Etrangers, plain) , a town with 20,900 inhab . , the central point of the Belgian iron industry, was founded by Charles II . of Spain in 1666 , in honour of whom the name (Charnoy) of the vil lage which then occupied the site was changed to Charleroi. Under Louis XIV . it was fortified by Vauban . In 1794 it was besieged four times by the French , to whom it was ultimately surrendered on the eve of the Battle of Fleurus (p . 203), after the garrison had been reduced to the utmost extremities. On 23rd May , 1794, the French were totally defeated here by the Austrian Gen. Kaunitz , who cap tured 25 guns and 1300 prisoners . The fortifications were recon structed in 1816, but are now converted into promenades. Near the station is a prison in the Gothic style . The Musée Archéologique, in the Boul. de l'Ouest, contains prehistoric , Roman , and Frankish antiquities found in this district, and also a mineralogical cabinet . The church of St. Antoine , in the lower town , contains a good example of the native painter F. J. Navez (d . 1869) . Steam -tramways unite Charleroi with ( 5 M.) Nontigny -Le Tilleul; ( 13/4 M.) Mont-sur- Marchienne ; and ( 2 M.) Lodelinsart (p . 202 ). Charleroi - Erquelinnes - Paris, in 61/2-8 hrs., see Baedeker's Paris. Charleroi - Wavre - Louvain , see R. 25 . CHARLEROI- VIREUX, 401/2'M ., in 2 hrs. ( fares 5 fr . 20, 3 fr . 90, 2 fr. 60 c.). From (12 M.) Berzée branch- lines diverge via Thuillies to Beaumont and Chimay (see below ) and to Laneffe ; from ( 14 M.) Walcourt, which contains an ancient Gothic pilgrimage -church, two others diverge to Florennes and Philippeville and to Morialmé. – 29 M. Mariembourg (Hôtel du Com merce) with the château and park of M. A. Warvequé. The Chasse de St. Maur, in the chapel of the château, a Romanesque reliquary of the 12th cent., is the oldest art-work of the kind in Belgium. From Mariem bourg a branch - railway leads to the ancient little town of Couvin ( Hôt. du Chemin de Fer , well spoken of) ; and another to Hastière ( p. 189)viâ (10 M.) Chimay ( Hót. de l'Univers ; du Commerce ; Eglem ; de la Gare ; Bellevue ), a town with 3000 inhab . , where the beautiful park and château of the prince of that name are situated (visitors admitted ). A statue of Froissart, the chronicler, who died at Chimay in 1410, has been erected in front of the Hôtel de l'Univers. — Among the hills of Scourmont, 6 M.to the S. , is an interesting model -farm belonging to the monastery of La Trappe. - Then Nismes ( Hôtel du Cheval Volant; du Commerce ; Rail. Restaurant). Near the station is the striking Roche à Lomme. ( A pleasant walk may be taken hence in the valley of the Viroin to ( 2 hrs. ) Oſloy, see below . On a steep rock near Dourbes (Au Lion Belge) is the ruin of * Haute Roche, destroyed by Henry II . in 1554 ; fine rock scenery. ] Then Olloy ( see above) and Vierves, with a castellated château. - 401/2 M. Vireux, the French frontier station, lies on the Meuse , above the fortress of Givet (p . 190 ). Beyond Vireux the line proceeds tó Rheims and Paris . 184 Route 20. NAMUR . From Ghent Beyond Charleroi the Namur train crosses the Philippeville road , and passes the numerous metal-works of Marcinelle, (69 M.) Couillet, and (71 M.) Châtelineau ,the junction of the lines to Fleurus (p.203 ), Jumet (p . 130), and Givet. In the church of St. Barthélemy a hand some tomb of the Merode family . Opposite Châtelineau lies the busy little town of Châtelet, with 10,000 inhabitants. CHÂTELINEAU -GIVET, 311/2 M. , in 13/4 hr. (fares 3 fr. 80 , 3 fr ., 1 fr . 90 c.) ; a branch -line traversing abusy manufacturing and mining district, viâ Acoz (branch to Mettet , see below ) , Gerpinnes ( with a Roman villa ; in the church of St. Nicholas the fine Renaissance reliquary of Ste. Ro lande ), Oret ( Morialmé) , Pavillons ( Stave) , etc. Doische is the last Belgian, Givet ( p. 190 ) the first French station. The mines and manufactories gradually disappear. The Sambre winds through beautiful grassy valleys, sometimes skirting wooded hills . To the right of ( 761/2 M.) Tamines is situated the suppressed abbey of Ste. Marie d'Oignies , now an extensive mirror -manufactory . FROM TAMINES TO FLEURUS ( p . 202) , 51/2 M., railway in about 20 minutes . From TAMINES TO ANHÉE , 251/2 M. , railway in 11/2 hr. The chief stations are (131/2 M. ) Mettet ( Croix de Bourgogne), junction for the branch line to Acoz ( p . 183 ); and Denée -Maredsous, with a Benedictine convent built in 1876 in the early Gothic style . - The railway is being continued beyond ( 251/2 M.) Anhée, on the Meuse, to Dinant ( p. 188) . Stations Auvelais, Jemeppe-sur - Sambre (junction of a line to Tamines and Gembloux , see p. 202) , Moustier, and Franière. To the right of (84 M. ) Floreffe ( IIôtel du Progrès), with glass -works, picturesquely situated on an eminence, rises a seminary for priests, formerly a Præmonstratensian abbey. About 3/4 M. from the village are stalactite caves, named Grottes de Floreffe ( adm. 1-3 pers. 3 fr. , 3 each additional pers. 2 fr. ), at the entrance to which are exhibited some prehistoric relics and Roman coins . The Hôtel des Grottes de Floreffe is frequented as a summer-resort. Le Préat, the hill above the grotto , is surmounted by an old castle , partly restored . To the left, farther on are the abbey-buildings of Malonne, now a normal school. 861/2 M. Flawinne. The valley of the Sambre here is thickly studded with ancient châteaux , modern villas , and manufactories. 891/2 M. Namur. —Hotels . *HÔTEL D'HARSCAMP, Marché aux Arbres 4 ( Pl. C , 3), R. , L. , & A. 33/4-10 , B. 11/4, déj. 3, D. 4 fr.; HÔTEL & RESTAUR. DU CAFÉ ÁIGRET ; HÔTEL DE LA MONNAIE, Ř. 2, B. 1 fr.; HÔTEL DE FLANDRE, COURONNE , well spoken of, DU NORD , ROCHER DE CANCALE, all opposite the station , with cafés -restaurants. - Café Rubens, Grande Place. + Re staurant at the station . Cabs. Per drive within the town, or to the station or steamboat- pier, 1-2 pers. 1 fr ., each additional person 25 c .; per hr. 1 fr. 75 c . , each ad ditional 1/2 hr. 75 c . Between 9 p . m. and 6 a. m. 25 c. extra. - To Marche-les-Dames ( p. 224), and back, carr . with one horse 6-8, two horses 11-12 fr.; to Dinant ( p . 188 ), with two horses, 25 fr. Post & Telegraph Office at the station (Pl . B, 1) . In order to attract visitors the corporation organizes numerous enter tainments during the summer- season, including concerts , fire -works, regat tas , horse-races, etc. Good river-baths in the Meuse, above the bridge. Namur, Flem . Namen, the capital of the province , with 28,700 inhab ., lies at the confluence of the Sambre, which is crossed by sev 1 to Namur. NAMUR. 20. Route . 185 eral stone bridges , and the Meuse. From the natural advantages of its position Namur has always been a point of strategic impor tance, and it was fortified at an early period . The military authori ties have resolved to fortify this town on the modern system by a circle of detached forts. The numerous sieges it has undergone (Louis XIV. in 1692, William III . in 1695) have left few of the older buildings. Its situation however, is picturesque enough to warrant a short stay here , with which may be coupled a visit to the attractive valley of the Meuse (RR. 21 , 29). In front of the station , on the site of fortifications removed in 1862, is the Square Léopold (Pl . C, 1 ), to the E. of which , in the Place Léopold, rises a Statue of Leopold í. by Geefs ( Pl . 24) . To the W. of the station extends the Boulevard Léopold, which is embell ished with a Monument to Omalius (Pl . 23 ), the geologist (d . 1875 ) , and leads to the attractive Parc Louise Marie (Pl. A, 2 ), whence views of the citadel and the suburb of Salzinnes are enjoyed . The CATHEDRAL (St. Aubin , or St. Alban ; Pl . B , 2 ), built in 1751-67 from the designs of Pizzoni , a Milanese architect , is a handsome Renaissance edifice, with a dome and a fine interior. At the sides of the high -altar are statues of St. Peter and St. Paul in marble , by Delraux (d . 1778 ), from whose chisel are also the figures of the four fathers of the church , Ambrose, Gregory, Jerome, and Augustine. The left transept contains the marble monument of a Bishop de Pisani ( d . 1826) , by Parmentier. At the back of the high -altar is a tombstone erected by Alexander Farnese to his ' amatissimo avunculo' Don John of Austria , the conqueror at Lepanto, who died in his camp near Bouge , 3/4 M. to the N.E. of Namur, 20th Aug. , 1578 ; his body was removed to the Escurial but his heart remains here. The pulpit, carved in wood by Geerts ( 1848 ), shows the Madonna protecting the city . A painting of Christ in the choir is ascribed to Van Dyck. The treasury contains a golden crown of 1429, set with precious stones, a silver statuette of St. Blaise, and many other objects of value. The church of St. Loup (P1 . 12 ; C, 3) , situated in the Rue du Collège, was erected in the baroque style in 1621-53. The interior is borne by twelve massive pillars of red marble. The choir is en tirely covered with black marble, and the vaulted ceiling with sculp tures . A large hole in the latter, made by a shell, is a reminis cence of the siege by Louis XIV. in 1692. The Athenée Royal ( P1 . 2 ) was formerly a Jesuit monastery , to which the church of St. Lupus belonged. In the Grande Place (Pl . C, D, 3) stand the buildings of the Société du Casino (Pl . 6 ) , and the Hôtel de Ville (Pl . 17) , built in 1830. It contains the office of the Commandant (to the right of the main entrance), where permission may be obtained to visit the Ci tadel ( p. 186). In the neighbourhood is the Belfry, restored in the 16th century . Farther to the E. are the large Hospice d'Hars camp (Pl . 16 ; D , 3) and the church of Notre Dame (Pl . 14 ), the latter containing the monuments of two Counts of Namur (d . 1391 and 1418). In the garden of the hospice, which is surrounded by a tasteful railing, is a statue of its foundress, Isabella Gabriele 186 Route 20. NAMUR, ? a > d'Harscamp (Pl . 22). The convent of the Sæurs de Notre Dame, in the Rue des Fossés, contains a rich treasury, shown on appli cation to the superior. On the Meuse is the Cursaal, where con certs take place in summer. To the left of the lowest bridge over the Sambre, to which the Rue du Pont leads direct from the Hôtel de Ville , is the hall of the Ancienne Boucherie, now containing the * MUSÉE ARCHÉOLOGIQUE (Pl . 19 ; D , 3) , an extensive and admirably -arranged collection of antiquities, chiefly of the Roman and Frankish periods. The ob jects were found in the Roman villa at Anthée , in the Frankish burial-grounds at Furfooz and Samson, and in the Roman burial ground at Flavion, where a large quantity of enamelled fibulæ came to light. There are also several valuable objects both of earlier and later date. The museum is open to the public on Sundays , 10-1 ; to strangers daily on payment of a fee (1-3 pers . 1 fr .). The CITADEL (P1. B , C, 4 ; adm . , see p. 185), on the right bank of the Sambre, between that river and the Meuse, is believed by many authorities to occupy the site of the camp of the Aduatuci de scribed by Caesar (De. Bell . Gall . ii . 29). It was fortified on modern principles by Coehorn (p . 246) in 1691 , was restored in 1794, and has been frequently strengthened since 1817. The summit com mands a fine * View of the valleys of the Sambre and Meuse. An old stone bridge of nine arches (Pl. C, 4 ), 470 ft. long, crosses from the quarter below the citadel to the suburb of Jambes (see below) , on the right bank of the Meuse. There is here a small Zoological Garden (adm . 50 c.; concerts in summer) . The cutlery of Namur enjoys a high reputation , and is said to be not inferior to the English . On 20th June, 1815, the Liège and Brussels Gates of Namur were the scenes of hotly -contested engagements between the rear-guard of the French corps under Grouchy and the advancing Prussians. A monument in the Churchyard, about 1 M. beyond the Brussels Gate, was erected in memory of the fallen in 1857. Railway to Luxembourg and Trèves , see R. 22 ; to Liège , see R. 29 ; to Tirlemont, see p . 195 ; to Dinant and Givet, see below . 21. From Namur to Dinant and Givet. RAILWAY to ( 171/2 M.) Dinant in 3 /4-1 hr. (fares 2 fr . 25, 1 fr. 70, 1 fr. 10 c.) ; to (31 M.) Givet in 11/2 hr. ( fares 4 fr . 5, 3 fr. 5, 2' fr. 5 c .). The railway affords but little view of the beautiful valley of the Meuse. STEAMBOAT in summer from Namur to Dinant ; fares 1 fr. 70 C., 1 fr . (comp. the Guide Officiel) . The left bank of the river is recommended to pedestrians. The village - inns on the banks of the river are generally good, but are often full in summer. The valley of the Meuse above Namur is narrow , and enclosed by wooded hills and frowning cliffs . The banks are enlivened with picturesque villages and country -houses. Immediately after quitting the station , the train crosses the Meuse, remaining on the right bank until Dinant is nearly reached. 2 M. Jambes (see above). Bruxelles, A Tirleraant B D E F Lichterstattu Ulteuy Prisons Boul!Cu Nord Boulevard NAMUR 1: 15.000 100 200 100 30 O 300 400 Charleroi Station Av. de HiLhuise BETgrade Marie Mètres Huy & Liège Poste LesB:10 et i da si uchji rque Douane Station Boulevard Bow: Léopold placedela t Herbatte Lolote Mathia 023 R. Telvaur corynet Maison wetérov Rue Jawer TO KES Muut rne Gazo Thètre Jou domaltus damage SAINS 115 KUR Penn Louise Boal Frère Orbán Bruxelles avalye Marie Pin de Hannut:: Avenue Avenue R. des Bourgeois Ver Pace du Pal.de Fustice MONTOK aminicolas 2自 ) Fbg RAUN neel acques KU பட்ட Cathédrale RDINO Aheatre Rice farcella basse Traselt 75 Rubin Alseng s! DEXTIVUT de RZ Maatu a conegut al mbre 250 PL. Lilon Lures alusom Uīzes / ap

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Dave, with an ancient château (restored) and park belong ing to the duke of Fernan - Nuñez (adm . on application to the head gardener ), near which rises the huge and precipitous Rocher de Neviau . On the opposite ( left) bank is Wépion ( Depaive ). —The train passes below .the quarries and rocks of Taillefer and Frêne, and beyond a tunnel reaches ( 81/2 M.) Lustin , which is connected by an iron bridge with Profondeville and the marble quarries on the left bank. The village of Lustin lies 11/2 M. from the station, 555 ft . above the river. Farther on , on the left bank , appear Bur not ( Bouchat) and Rivière , with a château. On right bank , by the railway, is the rock Frappe - Cul, with the cavern of Chauveau . 101/2 M. Godinne (Genot) . On the other side of the river is Rouillon , with the château of M. de Montpellier. The numerous towers of the well- preserved castle of Bioulx ( 16th cent. ) rise 3 M. to the W. The scenery between Rouillon and Dinant is remarkably picturesque. Above the village rises a precipitous tuffstone -rock, named La Roche aux Corneilles (' Roche aux Chauwes'in the patois of the district), from the flocks of jackdaws which generally hover round it . Then, also on the left bank, the château of Hun , with a park. A tunnel carries the line through the Rocher de Faulx . 121/2 M. Yvoir ( Hôtel des Touristes; Hôt. du Nord ), at the influx of the Bocq, is connected by means of a handsome new bridge with Moulins (Hôt. de la Roche ), on the opposite bank, a suppressed Cistercian Abbey converted into a foundry. About 6 M. farther up the Bocq is the château of Spontin (Linchant's Inn), of the 17th cent. (one of the towers, 13th cent. ) , formerly in the pos session of the Beaufort-Spontin family. Thence a road continues to follow the picturesque valley viã Vinçon to (3 M.) Natoye (p . 191) or to ( 2 M.) Mouffrin ( p . 191 ). About 3 M. upthe valley of the Floye, which opens at Moulins, is the ruined castle of * Montaigle, the finest relic of the kind in Belgium. Here also are the Grotte du Sureau and other prehistoric caves. 3 M. to the W. is the Benedictine monastery of Maredsous ( p . 184 ). The railway crosses the Meuse, quitting the right bank on which is Poilvache, with the ruins of a fortress on a lofty rock , destroyed by the French in 1554. Somewhat higher up are the ruins of the Tour de Monay. — Farther on we pass Bouvigne (Hôt. -Rest. Delens Gilson) , one of the most venerable towns in the district, which was formerly engaged in constant feuds with Dinant, but hasnow dwind led down to a mere village. The old ruined tower of Crèvecoeur is a conspicuous object here. A romantic story attaches to it in con nection with the siege of the town by the French in 1554. Three beautiful women are said to have entered the tower with their hus bands, who formed part of the garrison, resolved to participate in the defence and to animate the defenders by their presence. The latter, however, after a heroic resistance, perished to a man , the three unhappy widows being the sole survivors. Determined not to fall into the hands of the enraged and brutal soldiery, they threw themselves from the summit of the tower in sight of the besiegers, and were dashed to pieces on the rocks below. About 188 Route 21 . DINANT. From Namur 171/2 M. Dinant 1 . Hotels. * HÔTEL DES Postes, pleasantly situated, near the station , R. & L. 2-4 , B. 11/4, D. 3, A. 3/4 , ' pens.' 8-10 fr.; BELLE VUE ( same proprietor), at the bridge, with restaurant, R. & B. from 2, pens. 6-7 fr. ;. *TÊTE D'Or, with terraced garden, R., L., & A. 23/4-33/4, B. 1 , déj. 21/2 , D. 3, 'pens.' 71/2 fr.; HÔTEL DES ARDENNES; HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE. - Taverne Anglaise, on the road to Rivage, English beer. Dr. William's Hydropathic Establishment. Carriage to Freyr ( p . 189) , with one horse 5, two horses 8 fr .; to Mon taigle (p. 187) , 15 or 20 fr . Dinant, a town with 6400 inhab . , is very picturesquely situated at the base of barren limestone cliffs, which are crowned by a fortress . An iron bridge , commanding a fine view , crosses the riv to the suburb of St. Médard on the left bank, with the railway station . In 1467 the inhabitants of Dinant, having roused the anger of Philippe le Bon , Duke of Burgundy , by acts of insubordination , paid dearly for their temerity. The Duke, accompanied by his son Charles the Bold , who succeeded him a few years later , marched against the town , besieged and took it , and treated the townspeople with great cruelty. He is said to have caused 800 of them to be drowned in the Meuse before his own eyes . The unfortunate town was pillaged and burned , and the walls demolished. In 1554 a similar fate overtook it , when it was taken by storm by the French under the Duc de Nevers, and plundered . In 1675 the town was again taken by the French . The ‘ dinanderies' , or chased copper and brass wares of Dinant were formerly in high repute, and an attempt has recently been made to revive the industry. The Mu seum (adm. daily 9-5, 1 fr. ) contains a collection of these wares . The ' couques de Dinant' are cakes not unlike gingerbread. The church of Notre Dame, a handsome edifice of the 13th cent. in the Gothic style , but with a few remaining traces of the transition period , has been recently restored. The portals are worthy of notice . The tower is upwards of 200 ft . in height. - The old Hôtel de Vilte , on the Meuse, contains some paintings by Ant. Jos. Wiertz (1806 65 ; comp. p. 112) , who was born in Dinant. A monument is to be erected to him on the hill on the right bank . At the back of the church are steps in the rock, 408 in number, leading to the ci tadel , which was sold in 1879 for 7000 fr. Fine, but limited view from the top (1 fr. ) . Better views of the town and river are commanded from the gar den of the Casino ( strangers admitted) , Rue Grande 27, which rises in terraces, and from the Jardin de Montfat (adm. 11/2 fr. ), in the Rue En - Rhée, near the handsome new Renaissance Palais de Justice. The latter garden contains a cavern called the Grotte de Montfat, from which steps lead up a narrow shaft to the highest point of the garden . —A path descends behind the citadel to the Fonds de Leffe, a narrow rocky ravine with numerous water -mills, so called after Leffe, the N. suburb of Dinant. From DINANT TO WANLIN, the temporary terminus of the new branch railway now being built between Jemelle and Dinant (p . 192 ), about121/2 M.; carriage in 24/2 hrs . , with one horse 12-15, two horses 18-20 fr . The road to Givet . DINANT. 21. Route. 189 7 leaves the valley of the Meuse at Rivages ( see below ) and about half -way passes Celle, with an old Romanesque church . For pedestrians the route up the valley of the Lesse vià Anseremme ( see below) is far preferable. Beyond Dinant the railway continues to follow the left bank of the Meuse. On the right bank appear the houses and villas of the suburb of Les Rivages , and the bold and isolated pinnacle of rock on the right , called the Roche à Bayard (the name of the horse of the “ Quatre Fils d'Aymon' ), where the high -road is carried through a rocky arch . In the vicinity are quarries of black marble. Then Anseremme ( Hôt. Beauséjour, 'pens. ' 6-7 fr.; Repos des Artistes, with interesting salle -a-manger ; Beau - Rivage ; Hôt, des Etrangers ), a pretty village surmounted by overhanging cliffs , about 13/4 M. above Dinant, hear the mouth of the Lesse. A pleasant excursion may be made into the VALLEY OF THE LESSE , the curious cliff- formations of which are covered with a thick growth of trees and pierced with numerous caves ( e.g. Trou des Nutons, Trou du Frontal, Trou Rosette, all three in the neighbourhood of Furfooz , see below ), which are of great interest to geologists and anthropologists. The paths are sometimes fatiguing, and local guides are useful. The road quits Anser emme near the Hôtel Repog des Artistes and leads over the hill on the right bank of the Lesse. We do not cross the bridge to the old farm of Pont- à - Lesse but follow the right bank to the modern château of Lesse and to a ( 21/2 M.) mill, whence we ferry over to the left bank , in order to obtain a view of the castle of * Walzin (13th cent.; once the property of the De la Mark family ), which is romantically situated on a steep, overhanging cliff on the right bank . A rough path leads hence along the left bank to (3 M.) Chaleux (primitive inn at the ferryman's , Passeur d'Eau ; return hence by boat if desired) . The curious cliffs on the right bank, opposite ( ferry ), are known as the Chandelle de Châleux. A steep path ascends to the high- lying village of (1 hr. ) Furfooz ; fine view of the valley from the top (caves, see above ). We now proceed to the E. to the ancient château of wève or 'Celle, picturesquely situated in a lateralvalley ; farther up is the modern château of Miranda, in the English Gothic style; both belong to Count Liedekercke- Beaufort. A wooded ravine to the left of the castle leads to Celle on the road from Dinant to Wanlin (p . 188) . On the left , beyond the Ivoigne, a tributary of the Lesse , rise the towers of the royal château of Ardenné. The road to Houyet ( Hôtel de la Lesse) descends through wood from the height on which the château stands , while another proceeds at the same level to Wanlin ( p . 188 ). A short tunnel carries the railway through the cliffs of Moniat, beyond which we pass one of the finest points in the valley of the Meuse. Here is situated the Château of Freyr, the ancestral seat of the Beaufort - Spontin family, with well-kept gardens, situated at the foot of wooded hills on the left bank of the river. Easily accessible stalactite cavern in the vicinity . Opposite, precipitous rocks of grotesque shapes rise immediately from the river. 221/2 M. Waulsort ( Hôtel- Pens. Martinot), with a château and fine garden . Opposite is the curious Rocher du Chien and farther up the scanty ruins of the Château Thierry . 26 M. Hastière ( * Hôtel de Bellevue , plain ; Hôt. de la Meuse; Hôt. Hastière ), junction of the line viâ Agimont and Mariembourg ( p . 183) to Chimay, Anor, Laon , and Paris. On the right bank of the Meuse is the abbey-church of Hastière, founded in the 7th cent. ; the present building is a basilica of 1033 , with a choir of 1260. - 190 Route 21 . SEDAN , 9 > 281/2 M. Heer- Agimont, with the Belgian custom - house, and near the ruined Château Agimont. On the right bank red marble is quarried. We then cross the French border. 31 M. Givet (* Mont d'Or , R. 2 , D. 31/2 fr.; Ancre) , with 7800 inhab ., picturesquely situated on the Meuse, which is crossed by a bridge here , is the first French town on the line (French custom - house ), and consists of Givet-St. Hilaire on the left bank, at the base of the steep hill on which the fort of Charlemont lies , and Givet - Notre - Dame on the right bank. Both parts of the town are strongly fortified , each forming a separate fortress. Givet St. Hilaire contains the longest barrack in France (1100 yds.). The composer Méhul (d . 1818) was born here , and a monument has been erected to his memory. The château of Beauraing, see p . 193. Givet is connected with Charleroi by two railways, the Vireux Charleroi (p. 183) , and the Doische - Châtelineau line ( p. 184) ; by the former the journey occupies 41/4, by the latter 21/4 hrs. From GIVET TO SEDAN , 48 M. , railway in 21/2 hrs., viâ Mézières-Charle ville (* Hôtel du Nord, at the station) , two towns adjoining each other, with 6600 and 16,900 inhab . respectively. Sedan ( Hotel de France; de l'Europe ; Croix d'Or ), a prettily situated town with 19,000 inhab. , formerly fortified . Here a memorable battle took place between the Germans and French on 1st Sept. , 1870 , terminating in the total defeat of thelatter and the capture of the emperor and 83,000 men ( including 1 marshal , 39 generals, 230 staff- officers, and 3000 other officers) . The French army numbered 124,000 men, the German 240,000, but part of the latter only was actually engaged. Carriages and guides to the battle field may be obtained at the hotels. Those who desire only a rapid visit to the battlefield before return ing viâ Metz , should alight at Donchery , the station before Sedan. From the station we proceed straight on through the village , cross the Meuse, and follow the Sedan road on the left bank . At the (11/4 M.) cross- roads (about 590 ft. above the sea -level) below Frénois, the road to the left leads in a few minutes to the château of Bellevue, where on the morning of Sept. 2nd the capitulation was signed by General v. Moltke and General de Wimpffen, and where a little later the meeting between King William of Prussia and Napoleon III. took place. The road to the right leads in about 14/2 M. to a height to the S.W. of Frénois, where King William had his headquarters during the battle , and where on the evening of Sept. 1st he received Napoleon's letter. As we continue to follow the road to Sedan we have a survey of the hilly district beyond the Meuse to the N.E. , which was the scene of operations of the N. wing of the French army, and of the desperate char ges of the French cavalry at Floing. All the Ń . heights were occupied by the Prussians on the evening of Sept. 1st, while the Prussian guards, forming part of the army of the Meuse, advanced from the N.E. Sedan lies about 11/2 M. from the cross- roads near Bellevue. We enter thetown through the suburb of Torcy, where the station (now removed farther to the S.E.) stood before 1870 , cross the Meuse, and reach the market- place, in which stands a monument to Marshal Turenne, born at Sedan in 1611. Thence turning to the right ( S.E.) we traverse the suburb of Balan to ( 3/4 hr. ) Bazeilles, the possesion of which was obstinately con tested for seven hours on the day of the battle. At the N. end of the village is the small tavern ' A la Dernière Cartouche', which was the only house in the village that escaped the flames, and now contains a 'Musée of relics connected with the battle . Apyramid in the adjoining cemetery marks the common grave of more than 2000 French and Germans. The rail way- station of Bazeilles is at the S. end of the village, 1/2 M. farther on. 191 22. From Brussels to Luxembourg viả Namur . Rochefort. Han - sur - Lesse. 137 M. RAILWAY in 61/2 hrs. ( fares 22 fr ., 16 fr. 45, 8 fr . 70 c. ) . The trains start from the Station du Quartier Léopold (p . 72) , and some of them also from the Station du Nord. 1 M. Etterbeek , a suburb of Brussels, whence the line to Tervuren diverges. The next stations, Watermael, Boitsfort, and Groenendael, with their pleasant woods and picturesque villas , are favourite resorts of the citizens of Brussels for picnics and excursions. From La Hulpe, a glimpse is obtained to the right of the Mound of the Lion ( p . 126) on the distant field of Waterloo. On the left, near Rixensart, is a château of Count Merode. 15 M. Ottignies is the point of intersection of the Louvain Charleroi (R. 25) and Louvain - Manage - Mons (p. 182) lines . 171/2 M. Mont St. Guibert, with pretty environs . On the right is the château of Birbaix, with fine gardens. At Chastre the Province of Bra bant is quitted , and that of Namur entered . 24 M. Gembloux, junction for the lines to Fleurus and Ramillies- Landen (p. 196) and to Jemeppe-sur-Sambre (p. 184). An old abbey here contains the royal agricultural institution. 281/2 M. Št. Denis- Bovesse ; 31 M. Rhisne. The train passes through several cuttings in the blue lime stone rocks, and affords a strikingly picturesque view of 35 M. Namur (see p. 184 ). The line now intersects the Forest of Ardennes, a wild, mountainous district, affording many picturesque views. Immediately after quitting Namur the train crosses the Meuse and commands another remarkably fine panorama of the town and its citadel. 401/2 M. Naninne; 45 M. Courrière: 46 M. Assesse ; 491/2 M. Natoye. The line runs hence to the next station through the deep valley of the upper Bocq, in which, 1/2 M. to the S.W. of Natoye, is the château of Mouffrin (16th cent.; to Spontin , see p. 187). — 53 M. Ciney (Grand Hôtel ; Bellevue; Hôt. du Condroz) , the capital of the Condroz (Condrusi of theRomans), as the district between the Meuse and Ourthe was once called (route to Huy and Landen, see p. 223) . —59 M. Leignon ; 591/2 Haversin, 11/2 M. to the S. E. of which is the finely restored château of Serain champs, formerly in the possession of the De la Marks, now the property of the Marquis of Senzeilles. From ( 651/2 M.) Aye an omnibus runs ( in 1/2 hr.; 1/2 fr.) to Marche ( p. 218 ). — 661/2 M. Marloie, where the direct line to Liège (Ligne de l'Ourthe) diverges ( p. 218 ). The line now descends con siderably, and affords a beautiful view of the valley of the Wamme to the left.—701/2M . Jemelle (Hôt. de la Station ; Hôt. du Luxem bourg), with numerous marble and limestone quarries and lime kilns, lies at the confluence of the Wamme with the Lomme, a tri butary of the Lesse. Continuation of the Railway, see p . 193. 192 Route 22. ROCHEFORT. From Brussels , ។ The new railway from Jemelle through the valleys of the Lomme and the Lesse to Dinant is now open to ( 101/2 M.) Wanlin (1/2 hr.; fares 1 fr. 30, 1 fr ., 65 c . ) . 21/2 M. Rochefort (*Hôtel Biron, R., L., & A. 11/2-2, B. 3/4, déj . 2 , D. 21/2, pens. 5-6 fr. ; * Hôtel de l'Etoile, same charges; Hotel Rogister ; Clef d'Or, unpretending ; all frequently crowded), a favourite summer-resort, with 2400 inhab ., formerly the capital of the County of Ardennes, occupies an elevated site on the Lomme, commanded by the ruins of an old castle ( private property, no ad mission) . The new Hôtel de Ville and the Romanesque Church , erected after plans by Cluysenaer, are noteworthy. Fine view from the Loretto Chapel. The environs are remarkable for a number of curious caverns in the limestone rock , many of which have been made accessible . The entrance to the * Grotte de Rochefort, one of the finest and most easily visited , is at the upper end of the town. It is the property of a M. Collignon , who discovered it , and who keeps the paths in the interior in good condition (admission 5 fr ., for parties of 20 or upwards 21/2 fr. each ). A rapid visit to it takes 11/4-2 hours. The stalactites are purer and even more varied than those in the grotto of Han , though the latter is far more imposing. The ' Salle des Merveilles', ' Salle du Sabbat , Val d'Enfer ', and ' Les Arcades', the finest points , are illuminated with magnesium light ; the height of the Salle du Sabbat (said to be 300 ft .) is revealed by means of a lighted balloon. In summer an omnibus plies regularly from Rochefort to the Grotto of Han, a visit to which should on no account be omitted ( re turn -fare 2 fr .). The village of Han - sur - Lesse ( Hôtel de Bellevue) lies 31/2 M. from Rochefort , on the N. side of a range of hills , through which the Lesse forces its way by the so - called Trou de Han or de Belvaux. The road to Han diverges , at the Hôtel Bi ron in Rochefort, to the right from the high-road (which continues straight on to St. Hubert ; p. 193), and cannot be mistaken. [On this side of the 5th kilomètre- stone stands a finger - post indicating the road to Hamerenne and Rochefort, which pedestrians may take on their way back. ] The entrance to the * Trou de Han lies about 11/2 M. from Han , on the S. side of the above -mentioned range of hills ; the omnibus from Rochefort drives direct to the cavern without touch ing at Han. The pedestrian should, however , secure the services of a guide at the hotel in Han (one of the brothers Lanoy ). Admission for a single visitor 7 fr .; two or more, 5 fr . each ; 2 fr . more is exacted for awakening the echoes by a pistol-shot, for 1-4 pers ., and 50 c . for each additional person ; fee to the guide extra. The Guide- Al bum du Voyageur à la Grotte de Han (2 fr . ) contains a good plan of the entire cavern . The Trou de Han is nearly 1 M. in length and consists of a series of chambers , opening into each other, and varying in height. The nume rous stalactite - formations have been fancifully named in accordance with their forms, Trône de Pluton, Boudoir de Proserpine, Galerie de la Grenouille, etc. The most imposing chamber is the " Salle du Dôme, which is 500 ft. long, 450 ft. wide , and 180 ft. high ; and the Merveilleuses, four chambers with the most beautiful stalactites , only recently made acces . sible, are also very fine. A visit to the cavern is extremely interesting, Ciney 17 220 175 185 . Bois de Famenne 0 245 FmeyAugtexityState ROCHEFORT FOR mua Jemelle đem Chateau 165 prave E 268 O Bors de 225 Woermont נו M55 Hamerenne Bons de Noulaily Zvaison blanche Cab ! 270 180 160 Eprave poudrere 153 200 287 Trou dwond Tienne Mont de VaJustice 806 150 318 180 Wavreille/ StHubert 160 Carrière elan sur-Lesse TrdadeHun 163 Sorteratrolte Carriere 270 Entrée de la brotte fois Banal Perte de la Lesse Auffe Wavreille 175 283 260 Nerelage 185 Grotte Belvaux 822 175 235 Karriere Baude Resterun Thioré Boyes Wagner & Debes, Bebes Gravé &imprimé par 0 1:59.400 1. |1 to Luxembourg. ST. HUBERT. 22. Route. 193 and occupies 2-4 hrs. Visitors emerge at the other end in a boat. August, September , and October are the best months for inspecting the cavern ; in spring the swollen state of the river often renders access impossible. The cave has been visited by tourists since 1814. The stalactites have unfortunately been sadly blackened by smoky torches , but the grotto is now lighted with naphtha and magnesium . Scarcely 1/2 M. farther on is the Perte de la Lesse , also well worth a visit, where the river dashes into a subterranean abyss. The next station of the branch railway is (5 M.) Eprave (Malarm Jacques ; Marneffe's Inn, where information as to the grotto may be obtained ), at the confluence of the Lomme and the Lesse , with another grotto (adm. 2 fr .; guide V. Guérit-Anciaux ). In the * Rond Tienne, below the latter, the branch of the Lomme which disappears in the grotto of Rochefort (p . 192) , 21/2 M. distant, bursts forth again to the light of day. In the vicinity is an interesting Roman camp, where numerous coins have been found ; also Celtic and Frankish graves. The next stations are Villers- sur-Lesse, Vignée, and ( 101/2 M.) Wanlin . To Dinant, see p . 188. From Wanlin a diligence (1 fr . 10 c . ) plies twice daily to ( 61/2 M.) Beauraing ( Hôtel du Centre ; du Sud ; de l'Ouest; du Nord ), the fine castle of which , with its art- treasures, was burned in Dec. 1889. A diligence (1 fr.) runs hence three times a day in summer to ( 6 M. ; 11/4 hr. ) Givet ( p . 190 ). 721/2 M. Forrières ; 76 M. Grupont (Hot.Masset). A diligence (2 fr. 60 c. ) plies hence twice a day to (151/2 M. ) Beauraing (see above) , viâ Wellin (Hôt. de l'Univers) , at the junction of the road to Han- sur-Lesse ( p . 192) , and Revogne, with a stalactite grotto . The train follows the sinuosities of the Lomme. To the left, on a rocky buttress, rises the strikingly picturesque Château Mirwart , with its five towers . From (821/2 M.) Poix ( Hôt. Guillaume) a branch-railway runs in 25 min. to (41/2 M.) St. Hubert, Flem. Hui brecht ( Hôtel du Luxembourg ; Hôtel du Chemin de Fer ), a town with 2500 inhab ., celebrated for the chapel containing the relics of the saint who has given his name to the place. The abbey has been converted into a Reformatory for young criminals. The Church, in the Flamboyant style, with double aisles and interesting crypt, dates from the 16th cent. ( façade and towers erected in 1700) . A chapel on the left near the choir contains a * Sarcophagus adorned with basreliefs by W. Geefs, and the choir itself has some fine wood-carving. The extensive forest of St. Hubert is one of the finest in Belgium . ST. HUBERT, the tutelary saint of sportsmen , was once a profligate and impious prince , who did not scruple to indulge in the pleasures of the chase even on the solemn fast - days appointed by the Church. While thus irreverently engaged on the holy fast of Good Friday , he suddenly beheld the miraculous apparition of a stag with a cross growing outof its forehead between its antlers. Thus warned by Heaven of the danger Ihering to his sinful courses, he at once desisted from the hunt, vol untarily relinquished all the honours and advantages of his noble rank, and determined thenceforth to devote himself to a life of piety and self BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. > of 13 194 Route 22. ARLON. > abnegation. He accordingly presented the whole of his fortune to the Church, became a monk , and founded the abbey and church which are still called by his name. The holy man is said to have enjoyed miracu lous powers during his life -time, and long after his death numerous mir acles were wrought by means of his relics. 85 M. Hatrival. 91 M. Libramont (Hôtel Bellevue , plain) , on the watershed between the Lesse and the Semois, is the station for Recogne, a village to the right , on the road to Bouillon (see below) and Sedan, the route by which Napoleon III . , accompanied by French and Prussian officers and a Belgian escort, proceeded to Libramont on 4th Sept. , 1870, to take the train for Germany. FROM LIBRAMONT TO Gouvy, 361/2 M., branch -railway in 11/2-21/4 hrs. (fares 5 fr . 60 , 4fr. 20 , 2fr. 80 c . ). Stations: Bernimont , Wideumont Bercheux, Morhet, Sibret. — 18 M. Bastogne (Le Brun ; Collin ), an old town of 2000 inhab . , surnamed Paris-en -Ardenne ; the church, dating from the 15th cent. , contains some curious vaulting, ancient mural paintings, and a figure of St. Christopher executed in 1520. A branch -railway runs from Bastogne, viâ (5 M.) Benonchamps, Schimpach , and Schleif to Wiltz ( p . 234), and through theidyllic valley of the Wilz viâ Merckholz (p . 234 ) to Kauten bach (p . 234) in the grand -duchy of Luxembourg. — From (24 M.) Bourcy a steam -tramway plies to ( 71/2 M.) Houffalize (Hôt. des Ardennes, pens . 5 fr. ; Hôt. des Postes ; Hot. de Luxembourg ), apicturesquely situated town with 1300 inhab ., the capital of the upper valley of the Ourthe, with a ruined castle. 28 M. Tavigny. 361/2 M. Gouvy, see p. 216. Another branch -line runs from Libramont to (71/2 M.) Bertrix ( p . 195) . 961/2 M. Longlier, the station for Neufchâteau (Hôtel des Postes ; des Etrangers), a small town of 2000 inhab ., once fortified , which lies 3/4 M. to the right (tunnel beneath the castle - hill ). - 101 M.. Lavaux ; 103 M. Mellier. 106 M. Marbehan (*Cornet's Inn ; Gil let-Rogier) , with a new church. A branch-line diverges here to Ste. Marie, Croix - Rouge, Ethe, and ( 16 M.) Virton (see below ). 1101/2 M. Habay -la -Neuve; 1131/2 M. Fouches. 1191/2 M. Arlon, Flem. Aarlen (* Hôtel du Nord, R., L. , & A. 3, B. 1 , D. 21/2, S. 2, omn. 1/2 fr .; Maison Rouge ; Hôtel Central, in the market-place ; Café de la Bourse), a prosperous little town with 7200 inhab . , situated in a well- cultivated plain , 1330 ft. above the sea-level , is the capital of the Belgian province of Luxembourg. It was the Orolaunum Vicus of the Antoninian itinerary, and was once fortified . Fine view from the church. The Hôtel du Gouvernement Provincial contains an unarranged collection of Roman antiquities found in the neighbourhood , including some interesting stone carvings . — About 3 M. to the E. , on the Luxembourg frontier , lies the ruined Cistercian abbey of Clairfontaine. FROM ARLON TO LONGWY (for Longuyon and Nancy ), 14 M., railway in 3/4 hr. ( fares 1 fr. 75, 1 fr . 35 , 90 c. ). Intermediate stations : Autel. Bas, Messancy, Athus ( see below ), and Mont St. Martin. ( At Autel-Haut are an interesting old church partly of the 10th cent. , and a château of the 13th cent .) - Longwy (Hôtel de l'Europe) is the French frontier -station and seat of the custom- house. FROM ARLON TO GEDINNE, 70 M., railway in 33/4 hrs. (fares 8 fr. 60, 6 fr . 45, 4 fr. 30 c . ) . As far as (10 M.) Athus (branch to Petange, p . 195 ) the line is the same as that to Longwy. It then turns to the W. ° 15 M. Halancy ; 19 M. Signeulx ; 211/2 M. uette , 251/2 M. Virton ( Croix d'Or; Cheval Blanc), the junction of a line to Marbehan ( see above ), is a prettily- situated little town with 2500 inhab. , TIRLEMONT. 23. Route . 195 - whose chief occupation is farming and cattle -breeding. Various Roman coins and antiquities have been found in the neighbourhood. 29 M.Meix - devant- Virton ; 33/2 M. Belle- Fontaine-lez -Etalle ; 371/2 M. Izel. 401/2 M. Florenville (* Hotel du Commerce; Poste), a small town near the French frontier, from which many pleasant excursions may be made into the forest of Ardennes. [ The winding valley of the Semois, from Izel ( see above) to its junction with the Meuse at Monthermé (see Baedeker's Northern France), is very picturesque. Good quarters may be found at Florenville and Bouillon (see below ) and also at Herbeumont (Hôt. Vasseur) , up-stream , and at Alle (* Hôt. Hoffmann ; du Commerce ), down -stream . ) About 71/2 M. to the s. of Florenville lie the ruins of the abbey of Or val, founded in 1124. The church was rebuilt in the 16-17th centuries. Adjacent is a tolerable inn. 47/2 M. Straimont ; 491/2 M. St. Medard ; 531/2 M. Bertric ( Hốt. Maujean ; branch to Libramont, see p. 194) . From ( 61 M. ) Paliseul (Hôtel des Ar dennes) a steam - tramway (fares 1 fr. 15, 80 c . ) plies to (10 M .; 3/4 hr. ) Bouillon, a little town dominated by the stately ancestral castle of Godfrey of Bouillon. Here Napoleon III . spent the night of 3rd-4th Sept. 1870 in the Hôtel de la Poste. To the S. of Bouillon lie Les Amerois, a château and park of the Count of Flanders. From Bouillon to Sedan (p . 190 ), about 91/2 M. by road. 65 M. Graide ; 661/2 M. Bièvre ; 70 M. Gedinne. 123 M. Autel ; 1251/2 M. Sterpenich. —126 M. Bettingen (Luxem bourg custom-honse ; luggage examined) , the junction for branch lines to Steinfort and Ettelbrück (to the N. ) and to Clemency, Po tage, and Esch sur l'Alzette (to the S.) . 128 M. Cappellen ; 130 M. Mamer ; 1321/2 M. Bertringen. 136 M. Luxembourg, see p. 237. - > 23. From Brussels to Liège vià Louvain . 62 M. Railway in 2-31/4 hrs. ( fares 7 fr . 50 , 5 fr. 65 , 3 fr. 75 c .; express 9 fr. 40, 7 fr. 5, 4 fr . 70 c. ) . The train starts from the Station du Nord , and traverses an agricultural and partly -wooded district. At (2 M. ) Schaerbeek the Malines line diverges ( p. 131); 5 M. Dieghem , noted as a pilgrim age- resort and for its fair; 6 M. Saventhem , the parish -church of which contains a good picture by Van Dyck, representing St. Martin dividing his cloak, a gift of the master himself; 91/2M.Cortenberg ; 13 M. Velthem ; 15 M. Hérent. 18 M. Louvain , see R. 24. BRANCH- LINE hence to the N. to Rotselaar ( with the old tower of Ter heiden rising from a pond in the neighbourhood ) and ( 10 M. ) Aarschot, a station on the Antwerpand Hasselt line ( p . 176) , and thence to Herenthals on the Turnhout and Tilburg line ( p . 135) . From Louvain to Charleroi, see R. 25. From Louvain to Malines, see p . 135. Beyond Louvain the Norbertinian abbey of Parc (p. 202) , is seen on the right. 25 M. Vertryck. 291/2 M. Tirlemont, Flem. Thienen ( Hôtel Ponsaerts ; Nouveau Monde, near the station ; Hôtel de Flandre, in the market-place ), a clean and well-built, but dull town with 13,700 inhab.,was once like Louvain occupied by a much larger and wealthier population . The walls , which are nearly 6 M. in circumference , now enclose a large extent of arable land. In the spacious market-place is situated the 13 * 196 Route 23 . LANDEN. . church of Notre Dame du Lac, founded in 1298, enlarged in the 15th cent., but left unfinished. The Church of St. Germain, situated on an eminence, probably dates from the 12th cent. ; high -altar piece a Pietà , by Wappers. The celebrated Jesuit Bollandus (d. 1655) was probably a native of Tirlemont. He was the first com piler of the Acta Sanctorum , and his successors who continued the work styled themselves Bollandists. From TIRLEMONT TO Diest (p . 176) , 191/2 M., branch -railway in 50 min. ( fares 2 fr. 35, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr . 20 c . ) , viâ Neer - Linter, Geet-Betz, and Halen, FROM TIRLEMONT TO ST . TROND AND TOngres, 271/2, M., railway in 13/4 hr. ( fares 3 fr . 35, 2 fr. 50, 1 fr. 70 c . ) . 61/2 M. Neer - Linter (see above ) . 91/2 M. Léau, Flem. Zout- Leeuw (Café - Restaurant of J. Vos), formerly a fortress , with a handsomelate-Gothic Town Hall ( 16th cent. ) and the Gothic church of *St . Leonhard ( 13th and 14th cent. ) . The latter contains Gothic carved altars with early -Flemish and Renaissance paint ings ( beginning of 16th cent. ; in the right aisle ), a collection of admirable Gothic bronze works of the 15th cent. , unequalled in any other church in the Netherlands (censers , fonts , lectern in the form of a eagle, six -light candelabrum , 23 ft. in height, tabernacle -railing ), and a magniticent* Taber nacle sculptured in stone, 52 ft. high, one of the finest works of the Belgian Renaissance, executed in 1554 byCornelis de Vriendt, architect of the Ant werp Hôtel de Ville, by order of Martin de Wilre , Seigneur of Oplinter, who is buried beside it. - 121/2 M. St. Trond (see below) , the junction for the Landen- Hasselt line . 16 M.Ordange ; 201/2 M. Looz ; 24 M. Pirangea - 27 M. Tongres, see p . 360. FROM TIRLEMONT TO NAMUR, 271/2 M. , railway in 11/3 hr. ( fares 3 fr . 35 , 2 50, 1 fr. 70 c .). Stations unimportant. From Jodoigne a tramway runs to Wavre ( p. 202). 13 M. Ramillies is the junction of the Landen and Gembloux line (see p . 197) . About 21/2 M. to the N. is Folx - les- Caves, with curious subterranean quarries , worked even in Roman times (guide. in the adjacent café). From ( 16 M.) Noville- Tavier's a branch - line runs to Embresin ; and from Eghezée a steam-tramway plies to Andenne (p. 223 ) . Namur, seep. 184 . Beyond ( 33 M. ) Esemael the line intersects the plain of Neer winden (the village lies to the left), the scene of two great battles. In the first of these, on 29th July , 1693 , the French under Marshal Luxembourg defeated the Allies under William III . of England. In the second the French under Dumouriez and Louis Philippe (then ' General Egalité ', afterwards king of France) were defeated by the Austrians under the Prince of Cobourg ( great - uncle of the late king Leopold ), and driven out of Belgium (18th Mar., 1793) . 38 M. Landen , the junction of several lines , is historically interesting as the birth-place of Pepin, the majordomo of the royal domains of the Austrasian monarch Dagobert I. (628-38 ). He died here about the year 640, and was buried at the foot of a hill which still bears his name. His remains were afterwards removed to Ni velles (p . 130 ), where his daughter Gertrude (d. 659) founded a convent. His fifth lineal descendant was Charlemagne, who ascended the throne of the vast Franconian empire 128 years later. FROM LANDEN TO HASSELT, branch -line in 3/4-11/4 hr. ( fares 2 fr. 20, 1 fr. 70 , 1 fr. 10 c.). This route presents few attractions. 61/2 M. St. Trond, Flem . St. Truiden ( Hôtel du Commerce), the most important station , with 11,500 inhab., possesses several old churches (Notre Dame, Gothic, restored ; St. Martin , Romanesque); it is the junction for the Tirlemont - Tongres line (see above). 171/2 M. Hasselt, see p. 176. 111 1 B D E F .LÖWENOUVAIN Bruxelles Aerschot Malines Malines Porte de Commune deWilsele Mètres . •100 200 30 6 1 300 7 800 2000 Porte duCanal .2E.• om attor Herent de Commune Gharelu 2 Porte dhe Bruxelles 2 des RO Viest Station a Académie 1.Beaux des -Arts d'histoire 2.Cabinet raturelle D.E. 3. 3. dephysique D.E. 3. 4.Casernes D.E.3.E.3 E..2 5.Collége Adrien VI. E.3. 6. Marie Thérèse ,-E.3. Saint -Esprit D.3. Eglises : du8.Béguinage D.4. 9.des Jéuites . D.3. 10.N.D. des Dominicains D.3. 11..D.des Fièvres E.3. ste 12. Gertrude D.2. 13. S.Jacques D.2. 14. S.Joseph 3.E. 13. S.Michel 16. S.Pterre E.2.3. 27. Quentin S. D.4. 18. Entrepôt (noun ) D.1. 19. Grand Auditoire E.3. 20. Hotel deville D.E. 3. Maison d'arrêt 21. cellulaire E.3. 22. Table ronde (Société )E.3. Tribunal 23. deTinstance E.3. 24. Commerce E.3.de 25. Université D.3. Hôtel : Suède a.Hótel de E.3. comm abWintele eup 001 pra LooE.3. dePorte Tervueren 3 AM Terroge orte de Anemone loin Com muit Sirlemont a. Boul 4 Cimetière Porte deParc Porte deNamur deMano everle I Dyle Wavre B D А von Anstal .Geograph E F Wagner -Debes ,Liprig . LOUVAIN. 24. Route . 197 FROM LANDEN TO GEMBLOUX (Fleurus and Charleroi ), 23 M. , railway in 1 hr. ( fares 2 fr. 80, 2fr . 10 , 1fr. 40 c .). Stations ( 12 M.) Ramillies ( p . 196 ), Gembloux ( p . 191) , Fleurus, and Charleroi (see p. 183). Landen is also the junction for a line coming from Ciney, which intersects the Namur- Liège line at Huy (see p. 223) . Next stations Gingelom , Rosouc- Goyer, and (47 M. ) Waremme, beyond which the line crosses ancient and well-preserved Roman road , called by the country- people Route de Brunhilde , which ex tended from Bavay ( Bavacum Nerviorum ), near Mons, to Tongres. The latter was the capital of the ancient province of Hesbaye, the natives of which were once famed for their strength and bravery, as the old proverb , ' Qui passe dans le Hesbain est combattu l'ende main ', suggests. Steam -tramway to Huy, see p. 222. Beyond (53 M.) Fexhe the land of the Brabanters, a somewhat phlegmatic race of Germanic origin, is quitted, and that of the ac tive and enterprising Celtic Walloons entered. A smiling and highly cultivated district is exchanged for a scene of industrial enterprise. Numerous coal-mines , foundries, and manufactories are passed in the vicinity of ( 58 M. ) Ans, which lies 490 ft . higher than Liège. ( Branch-line to Liers , p. 360. ) — 601/2 M. Haut-Pré. The line now descends rapidly (1:30 ), affording a fine view of ' the populous city of Liège and the beautiful and populous valley of the Meuse. A large brick building on the hill to the left is a military hospital . 62 M. Liège, see p . 203 . 24. Louvain . Hotels. In the town : HÔTEL DE SUÈDE (Pl . a), Place du Peuple, with restaurant , R. 3-5, L. 1/2 , A. 3/4 , B. 14/2, déj . 21/2, D. 4 fr. HÔTEL DE LA COUR DE Mons, Rue de Savoie 7, with a popular table-d'hôte, R. , L. , & A. from 2 fr . , B. 3/4 , D. 2, s. 11/4 fr. –At the station : Hôtel Du Nord, R. & A. 3, B. 1 fr.; HÔTEL DU NOUVEAU-MONDE, HÔTEL DE L'INDUSTRIE, both unpretending. Restaurants. Société Royale (de la Table Ronde) , Grand' Place ; Taverne Mathieu, Taverne Allemande, Restaurant Lorrain , all in the Rue de la Station . Cafés. Café Rubens, opposite the church of St. Pierre ; Café Lyrique, Grand' Place 22 ; Café de la Renaissance, at the station. The beer of Louvain is a sickly beverage, but Bavarian beer may also generally be obtained . Cabs, or Vigilantes, 1 fr. per drive. Tramway from the station to the Grande Place . Chief Attractions (3-31 /2 hrs. suffice). Hôtel de Ville, exterior ( p. 198 ); St. Pierre, under the guidance of the sacristan ( p. 199) ; Halles, exterior (p. 200 ) ; choir- stalls at St. Gertrude's (p. 201) , St. Joseph's ( p. 201) . Louvain , Flem. Leuven or Loven, on the Dyle, which flows through part of the town and is connected by a canal with the Rupel ( p. 135) , is a dull place with 38,700 inhabitants. The greater part of the space enclosed by the walls built in the 14th cent. is now used as arable land . The ramparts surrounding the walls have been converted into promenades. The name of the town is derived from Loo, signifying a wooded height, and Veen , a marsh, words which are also combined in 198 Route 24. LOUVAIN. Hôtel de Ville . Venlo . In the 14th cent. , when Louvain was the capital of the Duchy of Brabant, and residence of the princes, it numbered 44,000 inhab. , most of whom were engaged in the cloth-trade, and the town contained no fewer than 2000 manufactories. Here, as in other Flemish towns, the weavers were a very turbulent class, and always manifested great jealousy of the influence of the nobles in their civic administration . During an insurrection in 1378, thirteen magistrates of noble family were thrown from the window of the Hôtel de Ville, and received by the populace below on the points of their spears ; but Duke Wenceslaus besieged and took the city, and compelled the citizens to crave his pardon with every token of abject humiliation . The power of the nobles soon regained its ascendancy, and their tyrannical sway caused thousands of the industrious citizens to ( migrate to Holland and England, whither they transplanted their handicraft. From that period may be dated the decay of Louvain . In front of the railway - station ( Pl . F, 2) is a statue of Sylvaan van de Weyer (d. 1874), a native of Louvain , who was one of the most ardent promoters of the revolution of 1830, and became the ambassador of the provisional government at the London Conference . The statue is by G. Geefs. The Rue de la Station , on the right side of which is the Theatre, built by Lavergne in 1864-67, leads straight to the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville (Grand Place ; Pl. D , E , 3) . The **Hôtel de Ville ( Pl. 20), a very rich and beautiful example of late - Gothic architecture , resembling the town - halls of Bruges , Brussels, Ghent ( in the older part), and Oudenaarde, but surpassing them in elegance and harmony of design, was erected in 1447-63 by Matthew de Layens . The building consists of three stories , each of which has ten pointed windows in the principal façade, and is covered with a lofty roof surrounded with an open balustrade . At the four corners and from the centre of the gables spring six slender octagonal turrets , terminating in open spires . The three different façades are lavishly enriched with sculptures . The statues on the lowest story represent celebrated citizens of Louvain, those on the second story the various grades of the mediæval burghers, and those on the uppermost the sovereigns of the land. The corbels which support the statues are embellished with almost detached reliefs, representing scenes from Old and New Testament history, in some cases with mediæval coarseness . The façade was restored in 1829-42, but seems already in need of another renovation . The building was seriously damaged by lightning in 1890. The INTERIOR is uninteresting. Most of the apartments are fitted up in a modern style, and adorned with pictures by Vaenius , De Crayer, Mierevelt, etc. The Salle Gothique is adorned with frescoes by Hennebica, consisting of scenes from the history of Louvain and portraits of eminent On the second floor is å small museum containing an Ascen sion by Mich . Coxie, specimens of De Crayer and Mierevelt, and a number of other ancient and modern pictures, including several copies. Here also ។ citizens . - St. Pierre. LOUVAIN. 24. Route. 199 are preserved those parts of the original sculptures of the façade which could not be made use of in the restoration ; a stone model by Josse Met sys of the projected towers of St. Pierre ( 1525) ; some local antiquities, etc. Catalogue 25 c. The Gothic * Church of St. Pierre (Pl. 16 ; E, 2, 3) , opposite the Hôtel de Ville, a noble cruciform structure flanked with chapels, was erected in 1425-97 on the site of an earlier building. The unfinished W. tower does not rise beyond the height of the roof. The INTERIOR ( sacristan, Place Marguerite 11 ; 1 fr ., more for a party ) is 101 yds . long and 291/2 yds. broad. A relief to the right of the entrance from the Place de l'Hôtel de Ville commemorates the second founding of the university in 1834 ( p. 200). The choir is separated from the nave by an elaborate Jubé, or Rood Loft, in the Flamboyant style , executed in 1490, consisting of three arches adorned with statuettes, and surmounted by a lofty cross. The twelve -branched Candelabrum was executed by John Massys. NAVE. The swinging doors inside the principal portal are finely carved in wood in the somewhat exaggerated style of the late Renaissance (1556). 1st Chapel on the N. side : late-Gothic font in copper, formerly furnished with a lofty and heavy cover, which was removable by the still-preserved cast - iron handle, by J. Massys. The following chapels on the same side have marble parapets in the baroque style . The 1st Chapel on the S. side contains an altarpiece copied from the original of De Crayer, which was carried off by the French , and is now at Nancy , representing S. Carlo Borromeo administering the Sacrament to persons sick of the plague; an old winged picture by Van der Baeren ( 1594), the Martyrdom of St. Dorothea ; and a statue of St. Charles, by Ch. Geerts (1855). The 2nd Chapel (that of the Armourers) contains a curious, blackened image of Christ, highly venerated in consequence of the legend that it once caught a thief who had sacrilegiously entered the church. The railing is adorned with armour and cannon. The Pulpit, carved in 1742 by Jos. Bergé, a work of very ques tionable taste , represents Peter's Denial on one side, and the Con version of St. Paul on the other. The lifesize wooden figures are overshadowed by lofty palm-trees , also carved in wood, and the whole is coated with brown varnish. The 5th Chapel contains a picture of Memling's school, represent ing the consecration of a cook as bishop, under Gregory V. AMBULATORY. 2nd Chapel : * Dierick Bouts, Martyrdom of St. Erasmus, a painful subject; in the background the Emperor, richly attired , with three attendants ; the scene is represented in a care fully -executed landscape with blue mountains in the distance; on the wings, St. Jerome on the left and St. Anthony on the right. The inscription ' Opus Joh . Memling' is a forgery. The same chapel contains the handsome Renaissance tombstone of Ad . van Bau de (d . 1559) . 3rd Chapel : De Crayer, Holy Trinity. * Dierick > 200 Route 24. LOUVAIN. University. Bouts, Last Supper, painted in 1467, also furnished with a forged signature of Memling. This is the central picture of an extensive altarpiece, the wings of which are in the museum at Berlin (Feast of the Passover and Elijah in the wilderness) , and in the Pina kothek at Munich (Abraham and Melchisedech, and the Gathering of manna). The symbolical character of the composition is of course not traceable in the central piece alone. One characteristic of Dierick's style is his attempt at individualisation by making the complexions strikingly dissimilar. Fine monument of Prof. Boyarts (d . 1520). The 4th Chapel formerly contained a celebrated ' Holy Family by Quinten Massys, which was sold to the Brussels Museum in 1879 for 200,000 fr. (see p . 100) . In the 5th Chapel are four paintings by P. J. Verhaghen , depict ing the life and death of St. Margaret of Louvain, who is here held in great veneration as the patron - saint of domestic servants . 6th Chapel, with a handsome cast iron screen of 1878 : Descent from the Cross, by *Roger van der Weyden (?) , a winged picture on a golden ground, with the donors at the sides, bearing the doubt ful date 1443 , but probably a late and reduced repetition of a picture in the Escurial. The same chapel contains the tombstone of Henry I. , Duke of Brabant (d . 1235) , the founder of the church (the pedestal is modern) . 7th Chapel : Handsome marble balustrade by Papenhoven of Ant werp ( 1709), representing Children playing, Confession, Baptism, and Communion . Adjacent is an imposing Renaissance monu ment to the memory of Ant. Bertyns (d. 1563) and his wife . In the choir , opposite , rises a beautiful Gothic Tabernacle (50 ft . in height ), by Layens (p . 198), executed in 1450. - The N. transept contains a richly carved organ of 1556 , a good copy of Van Dyck's Raising of the Cross, and a painted wooden statue of the Virgin and Child, of 1442. The Halles (Pl. 25 ; D, E, 3 ) , 66 yds . long and 151/2 yds. wide, were erected as a warehouse for the Clothinakers' Guild in 1317, and made over to the University in 1679. The upper story was added in 1680. The interior is disfigured by alterations and additions, but the arches and pillars of the hall on the ground - floor still bear testimony to the the wealth and taste of the founders . The Library, one of the most valuable in Belgium (70,000 vols. , 400 MSS . ), is adorned with a sculptured group representing a scene from the Flood , executed by Geerts in 1839. The entrance - hall contains portraits of former professors, and a large picture by Van Brée, Christ healing the blind, painted in 1824. The University, founded in 1426 , was regarded as the most famous in Europe in the 16th cent. , and the theological faculty in particular was remarkable for its inflexible adherence to the orthodox dogmas of the Church. The number of students is said to have exceeded 6000 at the period when the celebrated Justus Lipsius (d . 1606) taught here. Under Joseph II . its reputation somewhat declined , but it continued to exist until the close of last century. So extensive were its privileges, that no > St. Gertrude, LOUVAIN. 24. Route. 201 one could formerly hold a public appointment in the Austrian Nether lands without having taken a degree at Louvain . After having been closed by the French republicans , the university was revived by the Dutch government in 1817. A philosophical faculty was afterwards in stituted, notwithstanding the determined opposition of the clergy, and complaints to which the innovation gave rise are said to have contri buted in some degree to the Revolution of 1830. Since 1836 the univer sity has been re - organised , and has assumed an exclusively ecclesiastical character. It possesses 5 faculties, and is attended by 1500 students, many of whom live in 4 large colleges ( Pédagogies du St. Esprit, Marie Thérèse, Adrien VI. , and Juste Lipse) . - The technical academy connected with the university (Ecole du Génie Civil, des Arts et Manufactures et des Mines) is rapidly increasing ; an Ecole d'Agriculture was opened in 1878, and an Ecole de Brasserie in 1887, The church of St. Gertrude (Pl . 12 ; D, 2) was erected in the Flamboyant style , at the close of the 15th cent., with the exception of the choir, which was added in 1514-26. The * Choir -stalls, dat ing from the first half of the 16th cent. , and embellished with sta tuettes and 28 reliefs of scenes from the life of the Saviour, are considered the finest specimen of late- Gothic wood- carving in Bel gium ; they were executed by Mathias de Waydere. The bands of ornamentation in the Renaissance style (middle of 16th cent.) are particularly pleasing. The sacristy contains a reliquary of the 14th century . ( Sacristan at No. 22, near the principal portal.) The Rue de Namur, Rue de Malines, Rue de Diest, Rue de Bruxelles, and other streets contain various old houses with hand some façades. The Refuge des Vieillards in the Rue de Namur in cludes a court in the Renaissance style . The Jansenius Tower, on the Dyle, dates from the 15th century . A street ascends to the S.E. from the Place du Peuple to the church of St. Joseph (Pl . 14 ; E, 3), in the Flamboyant style, with an unfinished tower. The interior, recently restored , is of remarkably beautiful proportions. The aisles and choir contain good frescoes by Meunier of Brussels and Dujardin of Antwerp. The church of St. Michael (Pl . 15 ; E, 3) , erected by the Jesuits in 1650-66, contains modern pictures by Mathieu , De Keyser, Wappers, and others . The proportions of the interior are remarkably symmetrical, and the architectural details show a curious affinity to the Gothic style . The façade is also worthy of notice. The church of St. Jacques (Pl. 13 ; D, 2), possesses several pic tures of the school of Rubens, several modern works, a St. Hubert by De Crayer, and a fine Tabernacle in stone, executed in 1467, with a copper balustrade in the Renaissance style, cast by Jan Veldeneer in 1568. In the sacristy are finely embroidered vest ments, and two handsome reliquaries of St. James and St. Margaret. The Pénitencier, a prison for solitary confinement , is in the Boulevard du Jodoigne , between the Porte de Tirlemont and Porte de Parc. It was opened in 1860 , and is the most famous in Bel gium , having room for 634 convicts. Maison d'Arrêt (Pl. 21), completed in 1869 , has accommodation for 204 prisoners . ܪ > 202 Route 25. LIGNY. ' Caesar's Castle ', as the ancient stronghold of the counts and dukes, situated on an eminence near the Porte de Malines , was called , has al most entirely disappeared. It derives its name from an unfounded tra dition that it was originally erected by the great Roman general . The Emp. Charles V. and his sisters were educated in this castle by the learned Adrian Floriszoon, afterwards Pope Adrian VI. 3 25. From Louvain to Charleroi. 40 M. RAILWAY in 21/4-3 hrs . ( fares 5 fr. 20 , 3 fr . 90, 2 fr . 60 c . ) . The line passes several places memorable in the campaign of 1815. The country traversed is at first flat. Stations : Héverlé, with a château and park of the Duc d'Arenberg, and in the neighbour hood the magnificent Abbaye du Parc ( founded in 1179 ), with five large gateways; Joris- Weert, Florival, Gastuche; ( 141/2 M. ) Wavre, to which the Prussians retreated after the battle of Ligny, with a handsome monument by Van Oemberg (tramway to Jodoigne , see p . 196) ; Limal ; (18 M.) Ottignies, where the Brussels and Namur line is crossed (p. 191 ) ; Court - St. Etienne, La Roche. The train now passes close to the imposing ruins of the Cister cian abbey of * Villers, founded in 1147 and destroyed in 1796, and stops at (25 M.) Villers- la - Ville. The ruins lie about 1/4 M. to the N. of the station . The road to them skirts the Thyle. At the entrance to the abbey is * Dumont's Inn , where each visitor pays 1/2 fr. Beyond the court is the rectangular Refectory, a tasteful structure in the transition style , with two rows of windows. The Cloisters , chiefly Gothic , date from the 14 - 16th cent. , and are adjoined by the Gothic Church , erected in 1240-72 , with sub sequent additions . The latter contains tombstones of Dukes of Brabant of the 14th century. The old brewery in the transition style is also worthy of notice. An eminence outside the Porte de Bru xelles , to the W. , commands a good survey of the whole ruin . 271/2 M. Tilly is believed to have been the birthplace of the general of that name. 29 M. Marbais ; 301/2 M. Ligny, famous for the battle of 16th June , 1815 (see below). - - 33 M. Fleurus ( p . 203), junction for the lines to Gembloux-Ramillies-Landen (p . 196 ), to Tamines (p. 184 ), and to Nivelles -Baulers ( p. 130). 351/2 M.Ransart, the junction of a line from Jumet (p . 184 ) to Fleurus (see above). From (38 M.) Lodelinsart, a busy place with coal - mines and glass - works, a branch - line runs to Châtelineau (p. 184). Steam - tramway to Charleroi, see p . 183. Battle Fields. This district is famous in military annals as the scene of several important battles , the last and chief of which was that of Ligny. Sombreffe, near Marbais, and 6M. from Quatrebras (p. 182 ), was occu pied on 15th June, 1815, by the 2nd and 3rd Prussian Corps d'Armée under Marshal Blücher, who late in the evening received intelligence that Gen. Bülow with the 14th corps could not come to his assistance as originally concerted . The brave marshal accordingly resolved to fight alone, if ne cessary. Wellington had agreed to co -operate with Blücher , but the British troops were too far distant to render assistance , whilst those whose position was nearest to the Prussians were fully occupied at the Battle of Quatrebras . 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LIÈGE. 26. Route. 203 his disapprobation of Blücher's position , observing to the Marshal that with British troops he would have occupied the ground differently '. The chief disadvantages of the ground occupied by Blücher near St. AMAND and LIGNY, which he regarded as the keys of his position, were, that there was too little security in the direction in which the commu nication with the British was to be maintained, and that the villages in advance of the line were too distant to be reinforced without enormous loss. It is also on record , that the Duke , after his interview with the Marshal on the morning of the simultaneous battles, remarked to one of his staff, " The Prussians will make a gallant fight ; they are capital troops, and well commanded ; but they will be beaten. ' And the Prus sians did fight most gallantly , well sustaining the military reputation of their country. But their utmost efforts were fruitless ; they sustained immense loss , were overmatched, and finally repulsed , but not conquered . According to the official statistics of both sides the total force of the French at Ligny amounted to 71,220 men, with 242 guns, that of the Prussians to 83,410 men , with 224 guns , but a large proportion of the French army was composed of veteran soldiers, while most of the Prussian troopswere comparatively young and inexperienced. The French artillery was also numerically superior, and far more advantageously placed. The retreat of the Prussian army on the night after the Battle of Ligny, by Tilly and Mont St. Guibert to Wavre (p. 202), is perhaps without parallel in the annals of military warfare. So perfect was the order and so great the skill with which it was effected , that next day the French were entirely at a loss to discover in which direction their enemy had disappeared , and at length came to the conclusion that they must have taken the direction of Namur. It was not till late on the afternoon of the 17th that the real route of the Prussians was discovered , and Marshal Grouchy was dispatched in pursuit of Blücher. The parts acted by the different armies were now interchanged. Napoleon and Ney, united , now proceeded to attack Wellington , while Blücher formed the 3rd Corps d'Armée under Thielmann at Wavre , in order to keep Grouchy in check , and himself hastened onwards with his three other corps towards Belle Alliance, where he arrived on the evening of the 18th , in time to act a most prominent and glorious part in a victory of incalculable importance to the fate of the whole of Europe (p. 122 ). About 11/2 M. to the S. of Ligny lies FLEURUS, celebrated for the battles of 1622 and 1690 . On 26th June , 1794 , a battle also took place here between the Austrian army under the Prince of Coburg , and the French under Marshal Jourdan , in which the latter gained an advantage. The Austrians had stormed the French intrenchments, captured twenty guns , and driven the French back to Marchienne -au - Pont (p. 182) , when the Prince owing to some misunderstanding , ordered his troops to re treat. Thi- false movement, as the event proved , ultimately contributed to the loss of the whole of Belgium. It is a curious historical fact, that on this occasion à balloon was employed by the French in order to reconnoitre the Austrian position, but with what success it does not appear. 40 M. Charleroi, see p. 183 . 26. Liège and Soraing. Railway Stations. 1. Station des Guillemins (Pl . A, B, 7), on the left bank of the Meuse, for Aix-la-Chapelle, Brussels, Namur, Paris, and Luxembourg. 2. station de Vivegnis (P1.'D, E, 1), for the Dutch trains, on the S.E. side , a long way from the centre of the town, but connected with the Station des Guillemins and the Station du Palaiś by a junction line . 3. Station du Palais, near the Palais de Justice (Pl . B, 2), and 4. Sta tion de Jon fosse (Pl. A, 3, 4) , both on the connecting line between the two stations first mentioned , on which trains run hourly in each direction , between 5.30 a.m. and 11 p.m. (1/4 hr.; fares 35, 25, 20 c .). 5. Station de Longdoz ( Pl . C, D, 5) , on the right bank , for Maastricht , Namur, and Paris . 204 Route 26. LIÊGE. Hotels. Hotels. * HÔTEL DE SUÈDE ( Pl . a ; B, 3) , Rue de l'Harmonie 7, close to the theatre, R. , L. , & A. 4-61/2, B. 11/22 déj . 31/2, D, at 6 o'cl. 41/2, pens . ( except in Aug.) from 8, board 61/2 fr.; * Hôtel D'ANGLETERRE ( Pl. b ; D, 3 ), Rue des Dominicains 2 , R. 21/2-8, L. 1/2 , A. 3/4 , B. 11/4-11/2, déj , 2/3, D. 31 /2-5, pens . 8-12 fr .; HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE (Pl. c ; B, 3) , Rue Hamal 6 , these two at the back of the theatre. *HÔTEL MOHREN, Place St. Paul and Rue du Pont d'Avroy 31, with large restaurant and café, R. 2-5 , B. 1 , ' plat du jour' from 1 , D. 3, ś . 3 fr.; Hôtel VÉNITIEN, Rue Hamal 2 , nearthe theatre ( Pl. B, 3 ) ; HÔTEL D'ALLEMAGNE ( Pl. f ; B, 3 ), Place du Théâtre 6. HÔTEL DOUNEN ( Aux Frères Provençaux ), Rue Souverain-Pont 46, with café-restaurant, R., L. , & A. 21/2-31/2, B. 1-11 /4 , déj. 3, D. 3 fr., well spoken of ; POMMELETTE ( Pl . g ; C , 3 ), Rue Souverain -Pont 44 ; HÔT. DE DINANT, Ru St. Etienne 2, R., L., & A. 3-7, B. 1 , déj . 2, D. 29/2, pens , from 5 fr . ( R. extra ) ; HÔTEL DE FRANCE, Rue de la Cathédrale 13 ; Hôtel CHARLE MAGNE, Place St, Lambert (Pl. B, C, 3). The HÔTELS DE L'UNIVERS , DU CHEMIN DE FER, HÔTEL-RESTAURANT DU MIDI , and others, near the principal station (Guillemins), and the HÔTEL DE L'INDUSTRIE, Rue Grétry 89, oppo site the Station de Longdoz, are convenient for travellers arriving late or starting early by railway . Restaurants. * Bernay , Rue des Dominicains 22 (Pl. B, 3 ); * Mohren , see above ; * Hôtel Dounen , see above ; *Café Vénitien , gee above ; Café-Restau rant Continental, Place Verte ; Café Charlemagne, Café de Dinant, in the hotels of these names. Cafés. * Café du Phare, Place Verte (Pl . B, 3 ) , lighted by electricity, with numerous billiard -tables ; * Café Vénitien , by the theatre; Café de la Renaissance , also a restaurant, in the Passage ; Café Continental, Café Charlemagne, see above ; Trink-Hall, Square d'Avroy (p . 206) . Beer . " Mohren , see above , Vienna and Bavarian beer 35 C. , good cuisine ; Taverne Britannique, by the theatre (D. , from 12 to 3, 2-3 fr., 'plat du jour' 1 fr .; English beer) ; Taverne Anglaise, Rue de la Cathédrale ; Taverne de Strasbourg, Rue Lulay, near the Passage ; Taverne Blonden, Avenue Blonden . Cabs. Tariff for one or Closed Carriages. Open Carriages. more persons : One- horse | Two-horse One-horse | Two -horse A. By time : 1 hour . 1 fr . 50 c. 2 fr. 50 c. 2 fr . 3 fr . — C. Per additional 1/2 hr. 75 25 1 - 50 B. Per drive : In the town . 1 - 50 2 To the Citadel or the Char treuse 2 3 2 50 3 - 50 - Waiting, each 1/4 hr. , one-horse 25 , two-horse 50 c . Double fares from 11 p.m. to 6 a.m. Tramway( comp. the Plan) . From the Place du Théâtre (Pl . B, 3) to the stations Guillemins ( Pl . A, B , 7) and Longdoz (Pl . C, D , 5) , and to the N.E. suburb of St. Léonard ( Pl. D , E , 1 , 2) and Herstal (p . 359 ). From the Place St. Lambert ( Pl. B , C, 3) to the suburb of Ste . Marguerite and to Ilaut- Pré on the W. , and to the Pont des Arches and Cornillon on the E. Steam Tramway from the Quai de l'Université (Pl . C, 3, 4) to Je meppe and Seraing ( p. 212) . Steamboats up-stream to Seraing ( p. 212) , and down to the Cannon Foundry (p. 205 ), starting from the Ecluse du Séminaire, Boul. Frère Or ban ( p. 206 ), every 20 min . in summer and every 1/2 hr.'in winter. Weapons. Liège contains 180 manufactories of arms , rather depôts of arms , for the pieces are made and mounted by the workmen in their own houses. These mechanics , 40,000 in number, work at their own risk , as a piece containing the slightest flaw is at once rejected . Among the chief stores for weapons for show or sport are: Arnold , Rue de la Cathédrale 66 ; Demoulin , Boul . de la Sauvenière 102; Francoite, Rue Mont St. Martin 66 ; H. Pieper, Rue des Bayards 12-16 ; J. B. Rongé Fils, Place St. Jean 2 ; Dresse, Laloux & Cie., Rue sur la Fontaine 51 ; Manquet, Rue Charles Morren 18. C. 1 : : 11:50 or Manufactories. LIÈGE. 26. Route. 205 > > Photographs. Dandoy, Boul. d'Avroy 19 ; A. Zegen , Boul . de la Sau venière 137 ; A. Straus, Rue de la Cathédrale 24. Post and Telegraph Office ( Pl . B, C, 3 ), Rue de l'Université 34. United States Consul : Mr. James R. Danforth . Principal Attractions. Palais deJustice, the court ( p. 203) ; Church of St. Jacques (p. 211); St. Paul's ( p. 211) ; view from the Citadel ( p . 212). Liège, Flem . Luik, Ger. Lüttich, with 142,300 inhab . , the cap ital of the Walloon district, and formerly the seat of a principality of the name, lies in a strikingly picturesque situation . The ancient and extensive city rises on the lofty bank of the broad Meuse , at the influx of the Qurthe. Numerous chimneys bear testimony to the industry of the inhabitants , while the richly - cultivated valley contributes greatly to enhance the picturesque effect . The Meuse flows through the city in a partly - artificial channel, and forms an island , which is connected with each bank by six bridges, including the railway-bridge (p. 225) and a small iron foot -bridge ( ' Passerelle' ) . The principal part of the town , with the chief public buildings and churches lies on the left bank . The quarters on the right bank (known as Outremeuse) consist mainly of factories and the dwellings of the artizans. Most of the streets in the old part of the town are narrow and the buildings insigni ficant. Several new streets , however, have lately been made, and extensive quays and squares have been laid out. The city is sur rounded by new fortifications and a wide circle of detached forts . The coal-mines which form the basis of the commercial pros perity of Liège , are situated in the immediate vicinity, and many of them extend beneath the houses and the river. One of the chief branches of industry is the manufacture of weapons all kinds, which have enjoyed both a European and a Transatlantic reputa tion since the end of last century. As, however, the weapons of Liège are not made in large manufactories (see p . 205) , they find formidable rivals in the cheaper productions of England and America. The Liège zinc foundries, engine-factories , and other branches of industry, are also of great importance. Among the chief industrial establishments are the royal Gun Factory ( Pl. D, 2) , the Cannon Foundry (Pl. E, 2 ), and the Société de St. Léonard (machinery , locomotives ), all in the suburb of St. Léonard ( Pl. D , E, 1 , 2) . The Walloons (p . xiv) are an active, intelligent , and enterprising Cives Leodicenses sunt ingeniosi , sagaces et ad quidvis audendum prompti' is the opinion expressed by Guicciardini with regard to the Liégeois. Indefatigable industry and a partiality for severe labour are among their strongest characteristics, but they have frequently manifested a fierce and implacable spirit of hostility towards those who have at tempted to infringe their privileges. On such occasions they have never scrupled to wield the weapons which they manufacture so skilfully. The history of Liège records a series of sanguinary insurrections of the turbulent and unbridled populace against the oppressive and arrogant bishops by whom they were governed. Foreign armies have frequently been invoked by the latter to chastise their rebellious subjects . Thus Charles the Bold of Burgundy took the town in 1468, razed its walls , and put thousands of the inhabitants to death by the sword or by race. 206 Route 26. LIÈGE Square d’Avroy. . drowning in the Meuse. Maximilian I. also took violent possession of the town on two occasions. In 1675 , 1684, and 1691 it was captured by the French, and in 1702 it had to yield to Marlborough. In the revolu tionary wars of 1792-94, Liège was the scene of several contests between the French and the Austrians. The bishops retained their supremacy till the French Revolution in 1794 , when the city was finally severed from the German Empire. In ancient times the bishops possessed a Walloon body - guard of 500 men; and Walloon soldiers, like the Swiss , were fin the habit of serving in the armies of Spain, France, and Austria . They enjoyed a high reputation for bravery, which has been justly extolled by Schiller in his Wallenstein '. Leaving the Station des Guillemins (Pl. A, B, 7), we follow the Rue des Guillemins (good view of the town) in a straight direction to the *Square d'Avroy (Pl . B, 5), which is tastefully laid out on ground once occupied by an arm of the Meuse. It is embellished with several bronze statues , most of them cast by the Compagnie des Bronzes at Brussels, and with the Trink - Hall, a café built in an Oriental style. A band plays here every evening in summer. The equestrian Statue of Charlemagne(Pl . 3,5) was made and presented to the town by the sculptor Jehotte. The emperor, who is said to have conferred on the city its earliest privileges, is represented in a com manding attitude, as if exhorting his subjects to obey the laws. The pedestal in the Romanesque style is adorned with statues of Pepin of Landen, St. Begga , Pepin of Héristal , Charles Martel, Pepin the Little, and Queen Bertha. The square is bounded by the Avenue d'Avroy and the Avenue Rogier. On the side next the latter is a terrace, with fine candelabra , urns, and four *Groups in bronze by L. Mignon , of Liège. Along the river runs the handsome Boulevard Frère - Orban. - Adjacent, in the Boulevard Piercot , is the new Royal Conservatoire of Music, erected after plans by L. Demany of Liège, which is attended by 650 pupils. The teaching of stringed instruments at Liège is especially celebrated. The con cert -hall seats 1700 persons. For admission apply to the concierge , in the wing in the Rue Forgeur. St. Jacques, see p. 211 . The Square d'Avroy is continued towards the N. by the Boull VARD D'AVROY and the BOULEVARD DE LA SAUVENIÈRE ( Pl. B, 3 , 4 ), both shaded with trees and forming favourite evening - prome nades. A fine view of the Church of St. Martin (p. 207 ), which stands on an elevated site , is obtained here. The Boulevard de la Sauvenière leads in a wide curve to the PLACE DU THÉÂTRE (Pl . B, 3) , which may be regarded as the centre of the town . The Theatre was built in 1808-22 after the model of the Odéon at Paris , and was thoroughly restored inter nally in 1861. The façade is adorned with eight columns of red Belgian marble . Performances take place in winter only. In front of the theatre is a bronze Statue of Grétry, the composer (d. 1813) , designed by W.Geefs. The heart of the master, who was a native of Liège , is deposited beneath the granite pedestal. " To the W. of the Place du Théâtre, at the end of the Rue Hamal, is the CHURCH OF ST. JEAN (Pl . B, 3) , erected in 982 by Bishop - St. Martin , LIÈGE. 26. Route. 207 > Notger , on the model of the cathedral of Aix - la - Chapelle, but entirely rebuilt in 1754-57. The octagonal ground-plan of the ori ginal edifice has , however, been adhered to , a long choir having been added on the east. The Romanesque tower belongs to the the 12th , the cloisters perhaps to the 14th century. From the N. side of the Place the Rue Haute Sauvenière ascends to the N.W. to the Church of Ste. Croix (Pl. B, 3), founded by Bishop Notger in 979 on the site of an old castle , but afterwards repeatedly altered . The Romanesque W. choir , built about 1175, with its octagonal tower and gallery of dwarf columns, recalls the architecture of the lower Rhine (p. xxxvii) ; the E. choir and the nave are in the Gothic style of the 14th century. The whole church has been recently restored . The nave and aisles , of equal height , and borne by slender round columns, are remarkable for their light and graceful effect. The pillars are of blue limestone , the walls and vaulting of yellowish sandstone. In the chapels are fourteen medallion-reliefs of the Stations of the Cross ( 14th or 15th cent . ). The stained glass in the choir was executed in 1854 by Kellner of Munich and Ca pronnier of Brussels . Following the Rue Mont- St . Martin to the left, we reach the conspicuous and loftily -situated Church of St. Martin (Basilique St. Martin ; Pl. A, 3 ; recently restored) , founded by Bishop Hera clius in 962, and rebuilt in the Gothic style in 1542, almost simul taneously with the Church of St. Jacques (p. 211). Unlike that edi fice, however, its proportions are severe and simple, but imposing . The INTERIOR, consisting of nave and aisles with spacious lateral chapels , is 90 yds. long and 23 yds. wide. The stained glass of the choir (still under restoration ) and transept is of the 16th cent., the modern reliefs, representing the story of St. Martin , were executed by P. Franck, and the landscapes above are by Juppin (d . 1729) . The first lateral chapel on the right is adorned with fourteen marble medallions by Delcour, in memory of the origin of the festival of Corpus Christi ( Féte Dieu ) , which was first instituted in this church in the year 1246 , in consequence of a vision beheld by St. Juliana, Abbess of the neighbouring convent of Cornillon (p . 212), and eighteen years later was ordained to be observed throughout Christendom by Pope Urban IV . , who had been a canon at the cathedral of Liège at the time of the 'vision '. A marble slab under the organ bears an inscription commemorating the 500th anniversary of the festival. On 4th Aug., 1312 , the church was destroyed by fire , having become ignited during a fierce conflict between the burghers and the nobles. Two hundred of the adherents of the latter, who had been forced by the infuriated populace to take refuge in the church, perished in the flames . The tower commands an admirable prospect (the sacristan lives to the W. of the principal tower ; adm. 1 fr., small fee to the attendant). The Place Verte, a broad thoroughfare, leads E. from the Place du Théâtre to the PLACE ST. LAMBERT (Pl . B , C , 2 ), on which once stood the Cathedral of St. Lambert, ruined by the French sansculottes and their brethren of Liège in 1794, and completely removed in 1808. Here also for several centuries has stood the episcopal palace, which is now used as the 208 Route 26 . LIÈGE. Hôtel de Ville.

• Palais de Justice (Pl. B , C, 2), erected in 1508-40 by Car

dinal Eberhard de la Mark, a kinsman of the ' Wild Boar of Arden nes' (see p . 215 ). The façade towards the Place St. Lambert was re- erected in 1737 after its destruction by fire, and the whole was restored in 1848-56 , when the W. wing, accommodating the Gou vernement Provincial, was erected . The facade of the latter is em bellished with sculptures and it contains a large frescoed hall. The building contains two courts , surrounded by vaulted arcades, ex hibiting a curious blending of the late -Gothic and Renaissance styles. The cleverly - executed capitals, which consist of grotesque masks, fantastic foliage, figures, etc. , are by François Borset of Liège. The ribs of the vaulting are in blue , and the intervening surfaces in light-yellow limestone ( or in the restored parts in brick ). The first court, which serves as a public thoroughfare, has been in part freely but skilfully restored. The second court, which has arcades on two sides only , has been laid out as a garden and contains several archi tectural fragments. During the sitting of the courts the Palais de Justice may be entered from the Rue du Palais or from the S.E. angle of the first court . The buildings enclosing the second court , the exterior façades of which have been restored , contain the Ar chives and an Archæological Museum . The Musée Archéologique is open on Sun., 11-1 , free ; at other times it is opened by the concierge, who lives in the back corner of the first court, for a fee of 1 fr . It occupies the second floor of the S. wing of the second court . The Roman Room contains antiquities found chiefly in the province of Liège : in the middle is a glass-case containing a * Ewer and Ba sin , a fragment of a bronze Ticket granting honourable discharge to a legion ary ( of the time of Trajan ; 98 A.D.), the Stamp of a Roman physician , and other objects in bronze. At the back of the room is the so - called * Fon taine d'Angleur ( p . 214 ), with bronzé figures of a lion, ram, scorpion , and fish , heads of Satyrs and Medusa, etc. The other show -cases contain Sigil lata and other Roman vessels in terracotta, roofing tiles , and Gallo Frankish Antiquities in gold, silver, glass , and terracotta . The GALERIE D'OTREPPE is devoted to furniture, pottery, glass, and other objects of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance . – Another long GALLERY contains plaster -casts, and architectural and sculptural fragments. The ground in front of the W. facade of the Gouvernement Pro vincial (see above) ascends rapidly and the slope ( Publémont) is embellished with pleasure- grounds and a fountain . At the corner to the left is the Théâtre du Gymnase. The steps ascend to the Place St. Pierre , with the churches of Ste. Croix ( p. 207) and St. Martin (p . 207) . Opposite the N.W. angle of the same wing is the Sta tion du Palais (p . 203), at the end of the tunnels by which the junction - line passes under the lofty W. quarters of the city. The Place St. Lambert is adjoined on the N. E. by the GRAND Marché (Pl. C, 3) , in which rises the Hôtel de Ville, built in 1714, and containing, among other pictures, a portrait by Ingres of Napoleon as First Consul , who presented it to the town him self in 1806. Adjacent is the domed church of St. Andrew , now used as the Exchange. The square also contains three poor foun tains . The Fontaine des Trois Grâces in the centre was erected Pont des Arches, LIÈGE. 26. Route. 209 in 1696 from Delcour's designs. The two others bear the arms of the burgomasters of Liège , and those of the Bavarian Palatinate. The neighbouring church of St. Antoine (Pl. C, 2) , erected in the 13th cent. , was rebuilt in the 16-17th cent., and lately restored by Systermans. The choir is embellished with four wood carvings of scenes from the life of St. Bruno, and frescoes by Carpey of subjects from the history of St. Anthony (1860-68) . The Municipal Museum (Pl. C, 2 ) , an unimportant col lection of works of Liège artists and others, is contained in the old Cloth Hall ( 1788 ), Rue Feronstrée 65. It is open on Sundays and holidays from 10 to 1 , on other days on payment of a gratuity ; porter at the Académie des Beaux-Arts, No. 42 in the same street. Among the painters represented are : Barth. Flémalle, Carlier, Chauvin , Lairesse, Vieillevoye, Paul Delaroche (36. Mater Dolorosa), Lepoitte vin (101. Landscape), Wiertz ( 175. Contest for the body of Patroclus, repetition with alterations of the Brussels picture, p. 112 ), Wauters, Alb. de Vriendt, V. van Hove, De Haas, Koehler, Roelofs, etc. Farther on , on the same side, is the Church of St. Barthélemy (Pl. D, 2 ), a basilica of the 12th cent., with double aisles ( originally single only) and two Romanesque towers , which has been completely modernised . The Baptistery , to the left of the choir , contains an interesting *Font in bronze , cast in 1112 by Lambert Patras of Dinant. It rests on twelve oxen , and is embellished with reliefs , representing John the Baptist preaching, the Baptism of Christ in Jordan , Peter baptising Cornelius the centurion , and John the Evangelist baptising Crato the philosopher. It formerly stood in the cathedral of St. Lambert, p. 208. The church is also adorned with pictures by Flémalle, Dufour, Fisen , and others. Adjacent is the Mont de Piété, QuaideMaastricht 10, an interesting limestone and brick building of 1560 , with a lofty roof and curious turrets . Some of the sculptured chimney-pieces in the interior are inter esting. - The old prefecture in the same street has been occupied since 1886 by a Musée D'ARMES , in which fire - arms are especially well represented . Secretary, M. Polain. Admission gratis daily , except Tues., 10-12 and 2-6 ( 2-4 in winter ), on Sun. and holidays 2-6 only . A new street, the Rue Léopold , leads to the S. E. from the Place St. Lambert to the Pont des Arches (Pl . C, 3) , which spans the Meuse in five flat arches, and has recently been adorned with alle gorical statues. It was constructed in 1860-63, on the site of an older bridge mentioned as early as the 6th cent. , and afterwards repeatedly destroyed and renewed. In 1685 a strongly fortified tower (removed in 1790 ) was erected on the old bridge, to prevent communication between the two quarters of the city during civic revolts . The bridge affords a good survey of the different parts of the city, extending along both banks of the river . —- The tramway line which crosses the Pont des Arches runs to Cornillon , in the BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 14 210 Route 26. LIÈGE. University. Faubourg d'Amerceur, at the foot of the Chartreuse ( p. 212 ), in connection with the ' trains-tramways' to Visé (p . 218), which stop at Cornillon ( p. 212). > 1 Several of the busiest streets in Liège lead to the S.E. from the Place du Théâtre, among others the Rue de la Régence and the Rue DE L'UNIVERSITÉ. In the latter, immediately on the right, is the Passage Lemonnier (Pl . B, 3), constructed in 1837-39, one of the first of the glass- roofed arcades with shops now so common in the larger European towns . In the vicinity is the Church of St. Denis (Pl. C, 3) , found ed in 987 ; the present edifice dates almost entirely from the latter half of the 15th cent. , with additions of the 18th century . The left transept contains a handsome winged altar, executed about the end of the 15th cent. , representing, on the right, Christ entering Jerusalem ; on the left, Christ bearing the cross ; in the centre , above , God the Father and Son , beneath , the Sudarium of St. Ve ronica ; to the right and left, Apostles and Saints . Beside it is a Martyrdom of St. Denis . The statues of the Virgin and St. Denis at the sides of the high-altar are by Delcour (1707) . The modern stained glass in the choir is by Capronnier. At the end of the Rue de l'Université, and with its back to the quay of that name, rises the University ( Pl. C, 3, 4 ), erected in 1817 , and partly incorporated with an old Jesuit college. The buildings comprise lecture-rooms, academic collections, a library ( about 200,000 vols. ), excellent apparatus for instruction in physi cal science , and a natural history museum containing a fine col lection of the fossil bones of antediluvian animals found in the numerous caverns of the environs, especially in that of Chokier (p . 221). The Anatomical and Physiological Laboratories , in the Rue de Pitteurs, the Chemical Laboratory, in the Rue de l'Université, the Zoological Institute, Quai des Pêcheurs, etc. , have all been erect ed within the last ten years. New buildings are now being erected on the site of the former Aula or hall . The Ecole des Mines et des Arts et Manufactures, a well- attended institution , and a train ing - school for teachers ( Ecole Normale des Humanités) are connected with the university. There are more than 50 professors in all , and 1400 students, one- third of whom attend the mining and polytech nic school . The Place in front of the university is embellished with a bronze Statue of André Dumont, an eminent geologist (d . 1857), a professor in the university here , and author of the Carte Géologique of Belgium, by Eug. Simonis. Alittle above the university, the Meuse is crossed by the Pont de la Boverie (Pl. C, 4) , a bridge of four handsome arches, which leads to the Quartier de Longdoz and the railway - station of that name. To the W. of the university, and not far from the Passage Le St. Jacques. LIÈGE. 26. Route . 211 monnier , rises the * Church of St. Paul (Pl . B, 4 ), founded by Bishop Heraclius in 968 , and rebuilt in 1280 ( from which period dates the handsomeGothic choir) , while the nave and additions were completed in 1528. It was originally an abbey church , and was raised to the dignity of a cathedral in 1802 (comp. p . 208). The tower ( 1812) contains a set of chimes. The INTERIOR is 92 yds . long, 37 yds. broad , and 80 ft. high. The nave and aisles are separated by round pillars . The Nave is encircled by a handsome triforium -gallery ; the vaulting is embellished with Re naissance arabesques , executed in 1579, and restored in 1860. The *Pulpit, carved in wood by W. Geefs of Brussels (1844 ), is worthy of special notice. Five figures in marble , also by W. Geefs, representing Religion , SS. Peter and Paul, SS. Lambert and Hubert, serve to support the pulpit. The fallen angel at the back is by Jos. Geefs, a brother of the principal master. – Right (S. ) AISLE : 2nd Chapel, Christ in the sepulchre, executed in marble by Del cour in 1696 ; 3rd Chapel, St. Paul bidding farewell to St. Peter, also by Delcour , The principal subject in the stained -glass window of the right transept ( 1530) is the Coronation of the Virgin. The CHOIR contains both ancient and modern stained glass ; the five windows in the apse date from 1557-87 , the modern windows are by Capronnier. Here also is a painting by Erasmus Quellin , representing SS . Gregory, Jerome, Ambrose, and Augustine, four Fathers of the Church. The choir - stalls were exe cuted in 1864, from designs by Durletof Antwerp ; they are in the Gothic style, with small columns and reliefs, representing, on the right, the Resurrection of Believers, and, on the left, the Translation of the relics of St. Hubert. The high -altar has recently been renewed. LEFT (S. ) AISLE : Stained glass by Capronn * ; 3rd Chapel, Marble statue of the Vir gin, by Rob. Arnold, a Carthusian monk of the 18th century. The TREASURY (adm . 2 fr .) is worthy of attention ; it contains, among other objects, a statuette of St.George ingold enamel, presented by Charles the Bold in expiation of his destruction of the town in 1468 (p. 205 ). The * Church of St. Jacques (Pl. B, 4), near the Boulevard Pier cot ( p. 206) , to the S.W., was founded by Bishop Balderic II. in 1016 , and received its Romanesque W. tower in 1163-73 , but dates in its present form from 1513-38. It is a magnificent edifice in the late- Gothic style, with a polygonal choir encircled by small chapels. The Renaissance portal on the N. side was added by Lombard in 1558-60 . The church has been sumptuously and tastefully restored since 1833. The INTERIOR is 87 yds. long, 33 yds. broad, and 75 ft. high . Its de coration, particularly the filigree ornamentation bordering the arches , and the gorgeously - coloured enrichment of the groined vaulting, reminds one of the Moresco -Spanish style. The fine stained - glass windows of the choir, dating from 1520-40, represent the Crucifixion , the donors, their ar morial bearings, and their tutelary saints. The elaborate stone -carving in the choir (winding staircase in two flights ), and the organ- case in the nave, carved by Andreas Severin of Maastricht (d. 1673 ), also deserve notice. The transept contains marble altars in the Renaissance style. Over the left altar is a fine Mater Dolorosa, of the beginning of the 16th cent. ; in the right transept is the tomb of Bishop Balderic II. , founder of the church, restored in the Renaissance style . The aisles contain modern reliefs of scenes from the Passion. > The Zoological Garden, or Jardin d'Acclimatation (Pl . C, 6 ; admission 1 fr. ), contains only a small collection of animals, but the grounds are prettily laid out and afford a fine view of part of 14 * 212 Route 26. SERAING . the upper town. Concerts are frequently given here in summer. Adjoining the gardens is the public Parc de la Boverie. The Botanic Garden (Pl. A, 5) is open the whole day ; the hot houses ( fine palms) are shown on application to the head-gardener. Adjacent is the Pharmaceutical Institute, The finest *View of Liège is afforded by the Citadel (Pl. C, 1) , 520 ft. above the sea-level , erected by the Prince- Bishop Maxi milian Henry of Bavaria in 1650, on the site of earlier fortifications. It may be reached in 20-25 min. by ascending one of the steep streets, Rue Pierreuse or Montagne Ste. Walburg, or by the some what less fatiguing flight of steps, which affords excellent views, at the N. E. end of the Rue Hors- Château. Admission is usually granted without difficulty on application to the Commandant at the Bureau de Place, Rue Beckmann 49 (Pl. A, 4 , 5). The view em braces the extensive city lying on both banks of the river, with its numerous towers and chimneys , and the populous and indus trious valleys of the Meuse, the Ourthe, and the Vesdre. The pro spect is bounded towards the S. by the mountains of the Ardennes ; towards the N. it extends to the Petersberg near Maastricht, be yond which stretch the broad plains of Limburg. [ Almost the same view is obtained from the top of the flights of steps (see above) which ascend beside the Protestant church and from the N.E. end of the Rue Hors - Château (Pl. C , D, 1 ) ; also from the terrace of the little Café Panorama (poor ), beside the first flight.] The Caserne St. Laurent ( Pl. A, 3, 4) is another good point of view (best in the morning). We enter at the back from the Fau bourg St. Laurent and cross the court, passing the guard, to the terrace in front (no fee). The fortified heights of the Chartreuse (Pl. E, 5, 6) , on the opposite bank of the Meuse, also command a charming though dif ferent prospect. The best point is the garden of the Hospice de la Chartreuse (Asile des Petites Soeurs des Pauvres) for old men, about half- way up the hill ; entrance from the road ' Rue Thier de la Char treuse' ( ring ; 1/2-1 fr . on leaving ; tramway to Cornillon , see pp . 204, 209). - Still higher lies Robermont, where the Prince of Coburg was defeated by Marshal Jourdan , 19th Sept. , 1794, in the last battle fought by the Austrians on Belgian ground. One of the chief cemeteries of Liège is near Robermont. The new Avenue de l'Observatoire (Pl . A, 6 , 7), beyond the Station des Guillemins, affords a pleasant walk, with fine views. Seraing . STEAMBOAT (3 /4-1 hr.) every 20 min. in summer, and every 1/2 hr. in winter, from 7 a.m. till dusk (fares 30 and 25 c.; see p. 204 ). STEAM TRAMWAY, every 1/4 hr. from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. , starting from the Quai de l'Université and running along the left bank of the Meuse to Jemeppe, where the terminus is close to the ( 6 M.) Seraing bridge. lalting-places every 330 yds .; fares 50 or 40 c . SERAING , 26. Route. 213 RAILWAY in 15-20 min ., either on the right bank of the Meuse from the Station de Longdoz to Seraing, or on the left bank from the Station des Guillemins to Jemeppe ( distance in each case 5 M.). The * Excursion to Seraing affords a most interesting insight into the extraordinary industry of the Walloon country, and the steamboat trip is picturesque. After passing under the handsome railway - bridge of Val Bénoît (p. 225 ), we notice on both banks numerous iron - foundries and steel - factories of all kinds . —L. Ougrée ( rail. stat. , right bank). R. Sclessin , with blast - furnaces and coal pits , and Tilleur. The steamboat stops at the suspension -bridge which connects Seraing and Jemeppe (5000 inhab .). The railway stations are each about 3/4 M. from the bridge. Seraing ( Hôtel Bruyère, near the quay) , a town with 31,400 in hab. , situated on the right bank of the Meuse, has acquired a Eu ropean reputation on account of its vast ironworks and manufac tories. They were founded in 1817 by John Cockerill, an Englishman , to whom the works belonged jointly with William I. , King of the Netherlands , down to the revolution of 1830, when he purchased the king's share and thus became sole proprietor. A monument was erected to him in 1871 on the quay in front of the Hôtel de Ville . After Cockerill's death in 1840 the works were purchased by a company with a capital of 21/2 million francs (raised to 15 mil lions in 1871 ). The present director is M. A. Greiner, without whose special permission visitors are not admitted to the works. A building on the Meuse, which was formerly a summer-palace of the bishop , immediately below the suspension -bridge, now forms the entrance to the establishment. It contains the residence of the director and the archives and library of the works . The workshops and offices occupy an area of 270 acres, and employ about 11,000 hands, whose salaries and wages amount to upwards of 10 million fr. annually. Upwards of 300 steam-engines, of 14,500 horse-power collectively , are in constant operation , and 1200 tons of fuel are daily consumed. The annual value of the products amounts to 45 million fr. , and the works are able of producing yearly 100 locomotives, 70 steamboat- engines, 1500 other steam-engines , the materials for 14 iron-clads, and 10,000 tons of cast iron for the con struction of bridges and other purposes. Down to 1887, the work shops of Seraing had turned out 65,000 engines or pieces of ma chinery, including the first locomotive engine built on the Continent (1835) and the machinery used in boring the Mont Cenis Tunnel ( 1860 ). The establishment comprises every branch of industry con nected with the manufacture of iron , such as coal-mines, ironstone mines, puddling furnaces, cast-steel works , and engine-factories. The hospital and orphanage in connection with the establishment are maintained at an annual cost of 45,000 fr. The welfare of the workmen is also provided for by savings - banks, by sick funds, and by good elementary and technical schools. 214 Route 27 . TILFF. In the vicinity of Seraing (up the river) are the extensive coal-mines and blast - furnaces of the Espérance company; and farther distant, the glass -works of Val St. Lambert, established in a sup pressed Cistercian Abbey, one of the largest manufactories of the kind in Europe. 27. From Liège to Marloie. 401/2 M. RAILWAY ( Ligne de l'Ourthe ) in 1 hr. 55 min. (fares 4 fr . 95, 3 fr . 70, 2 fr . 50 c .) . The train starts from the Station des Guillemins at Liège, and follows the Pepinster line (p. 225) as far as (11/2 M. ) Angleur (with a zinc- foundry of the Vieille Montagne Company), where it turns to the S. into the beautiful valley of the Ourthe, a tributary of the Meuse, which intersects the principal part of the Belgian Ardennes in numerous windings from N. to S. On the slope to the left at the entrance to the narrower part of the valley, which is called the “ Streupas (pas étroit ), stands the château of Beau - Fraipont, with its massive square tower. The train then passes the foot of an eminence crowned with the turreted château of Colonstère. On the opposite bank is the château of Ancre. 6 M. Tilff ( Hôtel des Etrangers ; Hôtel de l'Amirauté ), a large village prettily situated on the right bank of the stream, and reach ed from the railway by an iron bridge, is much resorted to in sum mer by the citizens of Liège. Modern Gothic church. About 3/4 M. below it is the Villa Neef, with pretty grounds. About 1/2 M. above Tilff, high above the road, is the entrance to a not very easily ac cessible stalactite cavern ( the keeper of the adjoining cabaret acts as guide , fee about 2 fr. ; the expedition is not recommended to ladies). On the height above it is the château of Brialmont. The train then passes the château of Monceau, crosses the river, traverses some rock - cuttings and a tunnel, and reaches (10 M. ) Esneux ( Hôtel Cobus ; Hôtel du Pont; Bellevue ; Mille Colonnes ), strikingly situated on and at the foot of a lofty and narrow rocky isthmus, washed on both sides by the river, which here forms a bend upwards of 3 M. in length. The lower part of the village is connected with the upper by a long flight of stone steps, while the carriage-road describes a long circuit. Fine views from the top , particularly from the Beaumont. This is the most picturesque spot in the lower valley of the Qurthe, and is a favourite point for ex cursions from Liège. Near(12 M. ) Poulseur (steam -tramway to Sprimont) the train crosses the river, the banks of which are disfigured with extensive limestone and slate quarries. Above the village rise the ivy - clad ruins of Poulseur, and on the opposite bank are the scanty relics of the castle of Montfort, to which numerous legends attach, once a seat of the ' Quatre Fils Aymon' (p. 215 ), and now almost under mined by the quarries. The valley contracts. The train crosses > AYWAILLE. 27. Route. 215 the Ourthe and reaches the small station of ( 14 M. ) Rivage, where the new Amblève Railway diverges to the left. Continuation of the journey to Comblain au - Point, see p . 216. The CHEMIN DE FER DB L'AMBLÈVE traverses one of the most picturesque valleys of the Belgian hill-country, and connects the Ourthe railway with the line from Spa to Luxembourg. The line at first ascends the right bank of the river, which is here navigable , passing (141/2 M.) Liotte and skirting the furrowed limestone cliffs of the Belle Roche. To the right we obtain a glimpse of the fine rocks of Halleux. Immediately beyond (171/2 M.) Martin Rive the train crosses to the left bank. On the left tower lofty rocks crowned with the insignificant ruins of the château of Amblève, which are chiefly interesting from their association with the med iæval legend of the Quatre Fils Aymon, who are said to have resided here, and with the Wild Boar of the Ardennes', who once occupied the castle, and was beheaded at Maastricht in 1485. The keys of the castle are kept at the village. The exploits of this adventurer are admirably described by Sir Walter Scott in his 'Quentin Dur ward' . His true history is as follows : WILLIAM DE LA Mark , the scion of a noble family of Westphalia, born about 1446, was educated by Louis de Bourbon , Bishop of Liège . The bravery, or rather ferocity, of his character, procured for him at an early age the sobriquet of the Wild Boar of the Ardennes '. Having been censured by the bishop's chancellor on one occasion , he slew that of ficer , almost before the eyes of his patron , and was banished in conse quence. William now sought an asylum at the court of Louis XI. of France, where he planned a revolt in the Bishop's dominions , and re ceived money and troops for the enterprise. On his arrival in the Province of Liège , he entrapped the unfortunate Bishop into an ambuscade , and slew him with his own battle- axe . The Liégeois, ever prone to rebellion, now created William their commander- in - chief. He next invaded Brabant, but having been defeated by Archduke Maximilian , he returned to Liège, and allied himself with René of Lorraine against Austria . Maximilian now had recourse to treachery. He bribed Frederick of Horn , William's friend , to betray him. The " Wild Boar thus fell into the power of the Austrians , and was conducted to Maastricht, where he terminated his blood stained career on the scaffold at the age of 39 years . He died bravely, as he had lived , meeting his merited fate with composure. 191/2 M. Aywaille (Hôteldu Luxembourg ; Hôtel de Liège ; Hôtel d'Allemagne, new, good cuisine), a small town with 3500 inhab ., connected with the opposite bank by a graceful suspension bridge. A picturesque walk may be taken from Aywaille viâ the village of Harzé (with a 16th cent. castle of the De la Marks) to My and Bo mal (p. 217) .—Farther on we cross the river by a viaduct 45 ft. high and 175 yds. long, commanding a good view of the village of Re mouchamps on the left and the château of Mont Jardin ( p. 232) on the right. — 21 M. Remouchamps, see p . 231 . Above Remouchamp the river makes a wide bend , which the railway avoids by a tunnel 678 yds. in length . The train then crosses to the left bank, passes ( 221/2 M.) Nonceveux, recrosses the river, and reaches the Fond de Quareux (Restaur. ), a wild rocky 216 Route 27 . COMBLAIN-AU- PONT. From Liège - caldron, in which the channel of the Amblève is blocked by innu merable boulders. From (25 M.) Quareux a pleasant walk may be taken along the railway and the high-road to a point beyond the prettily situated village of Sedoz, and thence across the hills (fine views) to Remouchamps (in about 21/2 hrs . ). The train now keeps to the right bank, commanding a series of fine views of the wild valley of the Amblève and the ravines di verging from it . After passing Targnon, on an almost isolated hill , it reaches (271/2 M. ) Stoumont (Hôtel des Chasseurs). From Stou mont to Spa by Desniez, Winamplanche, and Marteau , about 5 hrs. Several tunnels and bridges are next passed . 31 M. La Gleize ; hence to Spa, see p. 231 . 33 M. Roanne- Coo ; cascade of Coo and hence to Spa, see p. 231 . 351/2 M. Trois - Ponts (Auberge des Ar dennes, poor) , junction of the line to Pepinster ( p. 232), a small village named after its three old bridges (over the Amblève, over the Salm , and over another brook) , and situated behind precipitous rocks through which the railway passes. From Trois Ponts a new road descends the valley of the Amblève to ( 2 M. ) the Waterfall of Coo ( p. 231) . The line now enters the picturesque ravine of the Salm or Glain, passes through a tunnel, and follows the left bank of the stream . 39 M. Grand - Halleux ; 43 M. Viel-Salın , at some distance from the village (*Hôtel Bellevue ; Hôt. Bourgeois) of that name ; large slate -quarries in the environs. Farther on , to the right, is the ruined castle of Salm, the ancestral seat of the princely family of that name. The line now quits the valley of the Salm , passes (471/2 M.) Bovigny- Courtil , and beyond (501/2 M. ) Gouvy (Ger. Geylich ; Belgian custom - house) crosses the infant Ourthe (which rises close to this point) and the watershed between the Meuse and Moselle , which is at the same time the Luxembourg frontier. Branch -line to Bastogne, see p. 194. A diligence runs from Gouvy to ( 101/2 M.) Houffalize (p. 194 ). The train descends through the rocky valley of the Wolz, cutting off the windings of the stream by two short tunnels. 391/2 M. Trois Vierges, Ger. Ulflingen , vulgo Elven (Hôtel Wieser, at the railway station ), the frontier - station of Luxembourg . The French name is derived from the legendary conversion of the three Fates into the Christian virtues of Faith , Hope, and Charity, personified as the daughters of St. Sophia. The parish - church formerly belonged to a Franciscan convent . A branch -line runs from Trois - Vierges viâ Wilwerdingen, Lengeler, and Burgreuland ( with ruined castle ), to St. Vith , connecting with the Malmedy and Aix- la -Chapelle and Gerolstein line . The Ourthe railway beyond Rivage (p. 215) crosses the Amblève and reaches (15 M. ) Comblain -au -Pont ( Hôtel de l'Amblève, etc. , at the station ) , a village (Hôtel- Pension Renaville- Ninâne; Hôtel to Marloie. BOMAL. 27. Route. 217 Berck -Gadisseur; Hôtel des Familles, R. 11/2, pens . 4-5 fr .) prettily situated on the left bank of the river, 3/4 M. from the station, which lies at the foot of a precipitous cliff. On a rocky eminence rises the ivy - clad tower of an ancient church. The scenery between Poulseur and (3 M.) Comblain-au-Pont will reward even the pedestrian. The train now passes through a tunnel to (171/2 M.) Comblain la - Tour (Hôtel de l'Ourthe) , situated at the mouth of the Comblain brook, with rocky environs disfigured by slate- quarries. The valley soon expands and becomes more attractive. At (201/2 M.) Hamoir (Hôtel de la Station), a considerable village situated chiefly on the right bank, the river is crossed by two bridges, the older of which has been partly destroyed at the end next to the right bank . On the right bank , farther up, lies the château of Hamoir - Lassus, with a large park . One of the most picturesque parts of the valley is be tween Hamoir and Bomal (see below), the scenery being pleasantly varied by meadows, richly-wooded slopes , and frowning cliffs.

• WALK. Beyond the château of Hamoir -Lassus, at the first houses of the village of that name , enquire for the path across the hill to Sy,

a small group of houses in a narrow gorge , and at the railway-bridge cross by boat to the left bank. A path through the meadows here passes the mouth of the tunnel and through an arch of the bridge , suddenly affording a view of a narrow and sombre rocky valley. At Palogne cross to the right bank again , and ascend with a boy as guide to the picturesquely situated ruins of the castle of Logne , which like the Château d'Amblève was one of the chief seats of the redoubtable Count de la Mark ( p. 215) . Within the precincts of the castle is the Cave Notre -Dame, a stalactite grotto. Near the castle runs the Aywaille ( p. 215) and Bomal road , by which the latter village may now be reached . Beyond Hamoir the train crosses the river several times, and penetrates a lofty cliff by means of a tunnel . The large village of (25 M. ) Bomal ( Hôtel du Pont), at the mouth of the Aisne, com manded by the château with its terraced gardens, is a handsome looking place . EXCURSION recommended to the picturesque rocky valley of the Aisne, ascending by Juzaine and Aisne to (4 M.) Roche-à -Frêne ( Courtoy-Liboutte ), with curious geological strata , and returning by Heid , Wéris (ancient Romanesque church ; Celtic dolmen ), and Barvaux. The train again crosses the Ourthe, stops at the substantially built village of (27 M. ) Barvaux ( Hôtel de Liège) , and then quits the river in order to avoid the long bend which it makes towards the W. On the Ourthe , 2 M. above Barvaux , lies the ancient and pictur esquely situated , but now insignificant town of Durbuy (* Hotel de Liège, pens. 41/2 fr.; Hótel Truc), with 450 inhab. only. The principal features of the place are a mediæval bridge , an old chapel, the ruined tower of an ancient fortification, and the modern château of the Duc d'Ursel. Pleasant walk along the left bank of the river from Barvaux to Durbuy (2 hrs. ) , and back by the road (2 M. ) . Beyond (32 M.) Melreux ( Hôtel des Etrangers ; Poste ) the line crosses the Ourthe for the last time and then leaves its neighbour hood. From MELREUX TO LAROCHE, 121/2 M., railway in 11/4 hr. ( fares 1 fr. 60 , 1 fr. 20 c .). 13/4. M. Hotton (Hôtel de l'Ourthe) ; 41/2 M. Rendeux -Hamoul. On an almost isolated rock opposite stands the pilgrimage - chapel of St. Thibaut, beside which a hermit still dwells. — 121/2 M. La Roche (* Hôtel 218 Route 28. ARGENTEAU. From Liège des Ardennes ; Hôtel du Nord ), a small town, situated atthe junction of several valleys , and commanded by the frowning ruins of a castle. The winding and varied valley of the Qurthe in the vicinity of La Roche presents several points of attraction, e.g. the rocks of Le Hérou and the junction of the two Ourthes. 3812 M. Marche ( Cloche d'Or ; Hôtel de la Gare) , the chief town ( 2900 inhab .) of the Famène, a productive agricultural district. Marche was formerly a fortress. Lafayette was taken prisoner by the Austrians here in 1792. The village of Waha , 11/2 M. to the S. , contains a small and simple Romanesque church, which was consecrated in 1051 . 401/2 M. Marloie, where the line unites with the Brussels and Luxembourg railway (p . 191) . 28. From Liège to Maastricht. 19 M. RAILWAY from Liège to Maastricht in 1-14/4 hr.; trains start from the Station de Longdoz (fares 2 fr. 40, 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 20 c. ) . Travellers to Maastricht who intend to return to Liège should leave the bulk of their luggage at Liège, in order to avoid the formalities of the Dutch douane in going, and those of the Belgian in returning. Luggage registered to Maastricht is not examined till arrival in that town . The train describes a wide curve to the left, and passes under the Chartreuse, runs near the Meuse for a short distance, and reaches (3 M. ) Jupille, a small manufacturing town of very ancient origin , with 3600 inhabitants . It was once a favourite residence of Pepin of Héristal, who died here in 714, and was also often visited by Charlemagne. The train now quits the river, which makes a bend towards the W. - 5 M. Wandre ; 6 M. Cheratte. 8 M. Argenteau (Hôtel du Tourne -Bride), the station for Her malle , a straw-plaiting place on the opposite bank of the river. Argenteau is the mostpicturesque place in the lower valley of the Meuse. Above the village rises an abrupt rock , clothed with oak plantations on the summit, and crowned with the new château of Count Mercy d'Argenteau. The court is connected by means of a lofty bridge with another rock , where the pleasure - grounds are situated . The park extends for a considerable distance to the N. The curious formation of the sandstone rock somewhat resembles that of the ' Saxon Switzerland '. Picturesquely situated on the Berwinne , 3 M. to the E. of Argenteau, are the ruins of the once famous fortress of Dalhem. 10 M. Visé, Dutch Wezet ( Hôtel de Brabant) , the seat of the Belgian custom-house, with 2800 inhab. , once a fortified town, was the headquarters of Louis XIV . when he besieged Maastricht in 1673. The church contains the famous silver Châsse de St. Hadelin , with figures in relief. The Hôtel de Ville is quaint. The Loretto Chapel, on the hill, is a pilgrim-resort. The train crosses the frontier andenters the Dutch province of Limburg. 121/2 M. Eysden, with the Dutch custom - house and an old château , is situated amid fruit - trees and luxuriant pastures. 15 M. Gronsveld. On the opposite bank of the Meuse are seen the > -

2LreWL1223 1i

Hasselt Roermond Airtech MAASTRICHT . Voormalige poorten : 1Boschpoort 2.Brusselsche poort 3.Tongershe poort 4.S Pieters poort 5.Oude ( Duitsche ) poort 6.St Maartenspoort ouvis eiland Station emancinou . Groote dark Stadaris OLUN PON 1 Vrijth AR SiServats Kerk WELIK auro Real Luik( Liège Rir ( Biesland .I: Spieler Heulgem Alohet 1230 Slavante un Fraph . Anstaltvan 1 : 28.600 Wagner &DebesLeipzig Kilometre to Maastricht. MAASTRICHT. 28. Route. 219 sandstone rocks of the Petersberg, rising 330 ft. above the river, and crowned by the graceful Château of Castert. 19 M. Maastricht. Hotels. "HÔTEL DU LEVRIER, or HAZENWIND (“ greyhound' ), in the Boschstraat, near the market, R. from 11/2 fl ., L. 25 , A. 30 , B. 60 C. , D. 1 fl. 40 , or incl . wine 2 fl. 15 c .; ZWARTE AREND, or AIGLE Noir, a good second- class inn , opposite the Lévrier, R. 111 .; ZEGUERS, DERLON , DAENEN, three unpretending inns with restaurants , near the Peter's Gate and the church of Notre Dame. The hotels are all at a con siderable distance from the railway -station . Guide to the caverns , including torches , 21/2-3 fl. ( 5-6 fr . ) ; bargaining advisable. Omnibus from the station to the market- place 10 c. Carriage from the station into the town 50 c .; from Maastricht to the entrance to the galleries 3 f . Maastricht, the capital of the Dutch part of the province of Limburg, with 32,000 inhab., lies on the left bank of the Meuse, and is connected with the suburb of Wyk on the right bank by means of a bridge of nine arches, built in 1683. Maastricht (Maas Trecht, Trajectum ad Mosam ) is the Trajectum Superius of the Ro mans (the 'lower ford ' was at Utrecht, p. 362), and from 382 to 721 was the seat of a bishopric, transferred hither from Tongres by St. Servatius (d . 384). It belonged to the Frankish kings, several of whom resided here, and was at a later date in the joint possession of the Dukes of Brabant and the Prince Bishops of Liège. In 1679 Maastricht, which had thrown in its lot with the Netherlandish patriots, was besieged for four months by the Spaniards, under the Duke of Parma. The garrison consisted of 1200 soldiers ( French , English , and Scottish) , 7000 of the townspeople, and 1000 peas ants from the environs. Notwithstanding the numerical superiority of the Spaniards, they were twice repulsed by the sallies of the in trepid defenders. At length , greatly reduced in numbers, and ex hausted by famine, the garrison was compelled to succumb. The victors wreaked their vengeance on the ill - fated burghers with savage cruelty during three days. About 8000 inhabitants, of whom 1700 were women, were put to death . The fortress has sustained numerous other sieges , of which the four most memorable termin ated with its capitulation, viz . that of 1632 by Prince Fred. Henry of Orange, that of 1673 by Louis XIV. , that of 1748 by the French under Marshal Saxe, and that of 1794 by General Kléber. Maastricht was almost the only town in the S. part of the Netherlands which was successfully maintained by the Dutch against the Belgian in surgents after the eventful month of September, 1830. —Maastricht was formerly a strong fortress, but the works are being demolished. The Stadhuis, or Hôtel de Ville, with its clock- tower , situated in the great market-place, was erected in 1659-64, and contains several pictures of the Dutch School and well- executed tapestry ( 1704), representing the history of the Israelites in the wilderness. The Church ofSt. Servatius, or Hoofdkerk ,in the Vrythof, found ed by Bishop Monulphus (560-599) , is the oldest church in the Netherlands. The rich W. portion , in the Romanesque stylo, be 2 220 Route 28. PETERSBERG . From Liège longs to the 11th or 12th cent. , and the crypt, rediscovered in 1881, is perhaps still more ancient. The interior was restored in the Gothic style about the year 1500. One of the altarpieces is a Descent from the Cross by Van Dyck. The Church TREASURY ( Schatkamer ), which since 1873 has occupied a chapel of its own, and is shown to visitors for a fee of 1/2 fl., is worthy of inspection. The most interesting object which it contains is the late -Romanesque reliquary of St. Servatius (12th cent.) , in the form of a church , 5 ft. 9 in. in length , 19in . in breadth, and 27 in. high. It is executed in gilded and enamelled copper, and embellished with filigree work and precious stones . The Church of Notre Dame, or Lieve Vrouwekerke, a late-Roman esque edifice of the 11th cent. , has been disfigured by subsequent additions. The Provincial Archives and the Town Library (open 9-1) are preserved in the old Franciscan Church, Rue St. Pierre . The principal attraction at Maastricht is the subterranean laby rinth of sandstone - quarries which honeycomb the * Petersberg in every direction , having been worked for upwards of a thousand years . A visit to them occupies 11/2-2 hrs . We leave the town on the S. by the Peter's Gate, near which the guides (p. 219) live. After about 10 min . we pass the village of St. Pieter, with a conspicuous modern brick church, and in 1/4 hr. more reach the suppressed Servite monastery of Slavanten, now the property of a private club ( Casino ); admission, however , is seldom denied to strangers (re freshments, fine view). The entrance to the Petersberg is close by. The PETERSBERG range, extending from Maastricht to Liège, is com posed of a yellowish, sandy, and calcareous stone, or chalky tufa, which has been deposited by the water of the ocean, and contains numerous conchylia , fragments of coral , sharks' teeth , fossil turtles , bones of the piesiosaurus, ichthyosaurus, etc. , and other traces of its remote subaqueous origin . Many of these interesting fossils are preserved in the collection at Liège (p . 208 ) , and others may be seen at the Athe næum at Maastricht. The so - called orgues géologiques , cylindrical openings of 1-7 ft . in diameter, and generally vertical, perforating the formation to a vast depth , and now filled with clay, sand, and rubble, are a singular phenomenon which has not yet been satisfactorily explained . It is con jectured that they were originally formed by submarine whirlpools, the action of which is known to produce circular orifices in rocks of much harder consistency , and that they were afterwards enlarged by the per colation of water. The economical value of the stone consists in the facility with which it is sawn into symmetrical blocks, and in its property of bardening on exposure to the atmosphere. The galleries, which vary from 20 to 50 ft. in height , are supported by pillars averaging 15 ft. in diameter, left for the purpose. The first excavations are believed to have been made by Roman soldiers, and the same systematic mode of working has been ob served ever since that period. Guicciardini's ( p . xiii) description of the quarries three centuries ago is still ! applicable : “ Viscera montis scatent lapide quodam molli, arenoso, et parvo negotio sectili, cujus ingens assidue hic effoditur copia, idque tamaccurata conservandi et montis et fodientium cura , tamque altis , longis, flexuosis , et periculosis quoque meatibus.' The galleries constitute a vast labyrinth, of about 12 M. in length , and 7 M. in breadth, and are all so exactly similar in appearance, that their intricacies are known to a few experienced guides only. Most of 2 to Maastricht. PETERSBERG . 28. Route. 221 the entrances are closed , as adventurous travellers have not unfrequently perished in the foolhardy attempt to explore the quaries alone. The dead bodies which have occasionally been found in the more remote re cesses, have been preserved from decomposition by the remarkable dry ness of the air , and the lowness of temperature. Thousands of names are rudely scratched on the pillars , and a genuine inscription of the year 1037 is even said to have been discovered. During the bloody wars of the 17th cent. the caverns were used as a place of refuge by the inhabi tants of the surrounding districts . One of the phenomena pointed out by the guides is the gradual for mation of a small natural reservoir in the roots of a fossil tree, by the dropping of water from the branches , which still remain embedded in the ceiling, the intermediate part having been removed in the course of the excavations. A curious effect is produced by the guide leaving the party temporarily and carrying his torch into the side- galleries, from which its light shines into the central one from time to time. The soft, friable nature of the stone deadens every sound, so that his footsteps soon seem as if far in the distance . The invariable temperature in the quarries is about 550 Fahr ., and the change from the heat of a blazing sun to the coolness of the caverns is very perceptible. Railway to Aix -la - Chapelle, Hasselt, and Antwerp, see R. 17 ; to Venlo , Nymegen , and Rotterdam , see RR. 53, 54. 29. From Liège to Namur. 371/2 M. RAILWAY in 14/4-2 hrs . ( fares 4 fr. 80, 3 fr. 60, 2 fr. 40 c .; express 5 fr. 70, 4 fr. 30, 2 fr. 85 c . ) . This line is part of that from Co logne and Liège to Paris. This part of the valley of the Meuse is remarkably picturesque and attractive. Bold cliffs , ruined castles , rich pastures , and thriving villages are passed in uninterrupted succession, while numerous coal- mines and manufactories with their lofty chimneys bear testimony to the enterprising character of the inhabitants . The whole district is densely-peopled , the land well-cultivated , and the scenery pleasantly diversified with hop - gardens, corn - fields, mead ows, and (before Javaz) with vineyards , but many of the prettiest points escape the railway - traveller. The quarries on both banks yield excellent marble . Ougrée, Seraing (p . 212), and Val St. Lambert are stations on the right, Tilleur and Jemeppe stations on the left bank of the river, all picturesquely situated, with numerous manufactories and coal-mines. Val St. Lambert was until the Revolution the seat of one of the wealthiest Cistercian monasteries in the country, now succeeded by one of the most important glass-works in Belgium. 7 M. Flémalle , a considerable village , where a branch - line , constructed mainly for goods -traffic, crosses the river. Farther on , to the right, on a precipitous rock rising almost immediately from the river, stands the château of Chokier, with its red tower and massive walls, dating partly from the last century. It is the ancient seat of the Surlet de Chokier family, a member of which was regent of Belgium for five months previous to the election of King Leopold. Then , at some distance from the river, on the left, the castle of Aigremont, with its white walls , rising conspic > 222 Route 29. HUY. From Liège uously on the crest of a lofty hill, belonging to Count d'Outremont. It is said to have been originally erected by the Quatre Fils Ay mon , four traditionary heroes of the middle ages. In the 15th cent. it formed the central point of the warlike exploits of William de la Mark, the ' Wild Boar of the Ardennes' (p . 215). To the left, opposite stat. Engis, stands the château of Engihoul, at the base of a limestone rock . In 1829 numerous fossil bones were discovered by Dr. Schmerling in the limestone rocks around Engis, which led him to the conclusion that a prehistoric race of human beings had once peopled this district. 12 M. Hermalle, with a handsome château and park, is another picturesque spot, between which and Neuville the scenery is less attractive, and the banks are flatter . Farther on , at Flône, are the large buildings of a former nun nery ( 16th cent.) ; and on the hill above them , to the left (11/4 M.) , is the château of Jehay, restored in the original style. The château, which contains a collection of paintings, is in the possession of Baron Van den Steen. 14M. Amay, a village at some distance from the river, possesses a Romanesque church with three towers . Neuville , a modern château, beyond which the scenery again becomes more picturesque, lies nearly opposite ( 151/2 M.) Ampsin , where a ruined tower stands on the bank of the river. In the neighbourhood are vineyards, and the large Corphalie zinc - foundry. The train continues to skirt the hills on the left bank, of which no view is obtained . 18 M. Huy, Flem. Hoey (*Aigle Noir, “ pension' 6 fr.; Hôtel du Globe ; Hôtel Bruxellois ; Mouton Bleu ; Phare, plain), a town with 12,100 inhab . , is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the Meuse (station on the left bank ), at the mouth of the Hoyoux. The Citadel, constructed in 1822, rises from the river in terraces. The works were partly hewn in the solid rock . The hills on the left bank are here 1/2 M. distant from the river. The * Collegiate Church ( Notre Dame), a fine structure in the most perfect Gothic style , was begun in 1311 , but renewed after a fire in the 16th century, and recently restored. Handsome W. portal with good sculptures. On the high-altar is a Gothic reliquary ; and the treasury contains some notable articles. In 1868 a statue by W. Geefs was erected on the promenade skirting the Meuse, to Jos. Lebeau, a Belgian statesman , born at Huy in 1794, one of the most zealous promoters of the elec tion of King Leopold. The best views of the banks of the river, which are especially beautiful above the town, are obtained from the bridge over the Meuse and from beside the chapel of St. Léonard, to the west of the town. Wine-growing flourishes in the neigh bourhood . The abbey of Neumoustier , founded by Peter the Hermit (d . 1115 ) , formerly stood in one of the suburbs of Huy , and the great preacher of the Crusades was himself buried there. A statue has been erected to him in the garden of the old abbey. This was to Namur. ANDENNE. 29. Route. 223 one of no fewer than seventeen religious houses which Huy possessed under the régime of the bishops of Liège , although the population of the town was then about 5000 only. FROM HUY TO LANDEN, 221/2 M. , in 11/2-2 hrs. ( fares 2 fr . 75, 2 fr. 5, 1 fr . 40 c . ). The train may be taken either at the station of Statte (see below), a suburb on the left bank of the Meuse , or at Huy - Sud. The two stations, which are 1 °/4 M. apart , are connected by a bridge across the Meuse and by a tunnel. - At (5 Þ. ) Moha, with a ruined castle, the line begins to ascend the picturesque valley of the Mehaigne, atributary of the Meuse. Stations: Huccorgnē; Fumal, with an old castle ; Fallais, with a Romanesque church , and the ruins of a castle destroyed by Louis XIV. ; Braives- Latinne. The country now becomes flat. The last stations are Avennes, Hannut, Avernas- Bertrée. Then Landen, see p. 196 . FROM HUY TO WAREMME (p. 197 ), 171/2 M., steam- tramway, in 11/2 hr.; fares 1 fr . 85 , 1 fr . 30 c. From HUY TO CINEY, 22 M. , railway in 11/4-11/2 hr . ( fares 2 fr . 65 , 2 fr., 1 fr. 35 c . ). The trains start from Statte and Huy-Sud (see above) . The pleasing valley of theHoyoux , which the line ascends, is also interesting for pedestrians. Of the numerous paper-mills in the lower part of the valley, the chief is that of Godin . 41/2 M. Barse. — 7 M. Modave, whence a visit may be paid to the (1/2 hr . ) château of *Modave picturesquely situated on a lofty rock , built in the 17th cent., and now the property of M. Braconier of Liège. Tickets to visit the château , which is not seen except from the park , may be obtained from the gardener. A pretty waterfall is to be seen at the adjacent hamlet of Pont-de-Bonne ( * Body's Inn ; Frippiat's Inn), a summer- resort with attractive walks. — Then, cia vier - Terwagne, Avins -en - Condroz, Havelange, Hamois, Emptinne. Ciney , see p. 191 . 191/2 M. Statte, a suburb of Huy on the left bank of the Meuse, and junction of the line from Landen to Ciney, which here crosses the river (see above, and comp. Map). 201/2 M. Bas- Oha, with an old castle now restored, and vine yards on the neighbouring hills . On the height opposite are the scanty ruins of the castle of Beaufort, destroyed in 1554, which is once more in the possession of the duke of Beaufort- Spontin . In the valley of Solières, about 14/4 M. from the ruin is the Trou Manteau, which has been very imperfectly explored, entered by a double opening (apply to the discoverer Victor Martin , watchmaker in Huy). Below Beaufort is Ben - Ahin , with a recently restored château belonging to Prince Looz-Corgwarem . An attractive walk leads hence by the high road to (3-31/2 M.) Huy ( p . 222) ; another from the ruined castle of Beau fort to Huy, through the valley of Solières . 221/2 M. Javaz, opposite which is Gives (see p. 224 ). 25 M. Andenne-Seilles . On the left bank, where the railway - station is situated , lies the straggling village of Seilles , the last in the district of Liège. There are several lime-kilns here , and a château restored in the style of the 15th century . Opposite Seilles , and connected with it by means of an iron bridge, lies Andenne ( Hôtel de Thier, near the station ; Poste, in the town), with 7100 inhab., a busy town, with paper, faience, and other manufactories. Down to 1785 a religious establishment of 32 sisters of noble family, not bound by any vow to abstain from matrimony, had existed here for upwards of a thousand years. It is said to have been founded by St. Begga, a daughter of Pepin of Héristal (p. 196), and the order was probably > 224 Route 29 . MARCHE-LES-DAMES. identical with that of the Béguines. The establishment was trans ferred to Namur by Emp. Joseph II. The church contains the Re naissance reliquary of St. Begga, and a famous wonder-working marble tablet of the saint. Fine view from Mount - Calvary. Tunnel. 29 M. Sclaigneaux is noted for the curiously jagged character of the red oolithic cliffs. A handsome bridge (opened in 1890) crosses the Meuse to Sclayn (Hôtel des Etrangers ; Hôt. -Café de la Renaissance) , a beautifully situated village frequented as a summer resort, with a quaint old Romanesque church . At (30 M.) Namèche, another pleasant village in the midst of fruit-trees, the river is crossed by an iron bridge. On the opposite banļ lies Samson, a village at the foot of a picturesque cliff of white limestone. Above Samson are situated a modern château and the ruins of a castle believed to date from the 12th cent. or earlier. Near it, in 1858, was discovered a Frankish burial - place . Steam - tramway viâ Andenne to Gives (p . 223). A pleasant walk leads from Samson to the S. viâ Goyet (with pre historic caves ; foot- path viâ Haltinne to Andenne see above) and the beautifully. situated château of Faulx, to (41/2 M.) the scanty ruins of the famous Abbey of Grand- Pré, destroyed during the French Revolution. In the lateral valley above Faulx lies the well-preserved château of Arville . On the left rises the château of Moinil ; then that of Brumagne, the property of Baron de Woelmont. 32 M. Marche- les - Dames, adjoining which are the ironworks of Enouf. The modern château of the Duc d'Arenberg, with its gardens, amidst the trees on the rocky slope, is named after an abbey founded in a side-valley) in 1101 by 139 noble ladies, the wives of crusaders who had accompanied Godfrey de Bouillon to the Holy Land . A pleasant walk on the left bank of the river leads hence to Sclaigneaux (see above) . On the left rise the huge cliffs of Live . We next pass a number of lofty conical cliffs ; then , on the right ( 341/2 M.) , appear the mas sive rocks of the Grands Mulades , so-called from a hospital for lepers, situated here in the middle ages. 371/2 M. Namur, see p. 184. 30. From Liège to Aix - la - Chapelle. 35 M. RAILWAY to Verviers ( 151/2 M.) in 35 - 60 min . (fares 1 fr. 80, 1 fr. 35 , 90 c .; express one -fourth higher ); from Verviers to Aix -la Chapelle ( 191/2 M.) in 40-65 min . ( fares 3 fr. 30, 2 fr. 60 , 1 fr. 85 c .) . In the reverse direction : express from Aix-la -Chapelle to Liège 4 marks 60, 3 m. 40 pfennigs; from Cologne to Liège 13 m . 80 pf., 10 m.; from Co logne to Brussels 21 m ., 15 m . 70 pf. (The German ' mark, worth 1s. Engl., is divided into 100 pfennigs. ) Between Verviers and Aix - la - Cha pelle ( and Cologne) several of the express trains have first- class carriages only, but in Belgium they always consist of the three classes. — At Her besthal, the Prussian frontier-station, small articles of luggage are exam ined ; but that in the luggage - van' is not examined till the traveller arrives at Aix- la-Chapelle (or at Cologne, if booked to, or beyond Cologne). The country traversed by the line between Liége and the Prussian CHAUDFONTAINE. 30. Route . 225 frontier is remarkable for its picturesque scenery , busy manufactories, and pretty country- houses , while the engineering skill displayed in the construction of the line is another object of interest. This part of the line, 24 M. in length , cost upwards of 25 million francs . The picturesque stream which the line crosses so frequently is the Vesdre , and pleasant glimpses of its wooded banks are obtained on both sides of the train . The rock penetrated by most of the tunnels is a bluish limestone , fre quently veined with quartz , and often used for building purposes. This is the most beautiful part of the journey between England and Germany, and should if possible be performed by daylight. The BERGISCH- MÄRKISCH RAILWAY also has a line between Verviers and Aix -la -Chapelle , 201/2 M. ( 1-11/4 hr.; fares 2 fr . 60, 2 fr. 15, 1 fr. 50 c.; or 2 m. 10, 1 m . 70 , 1 m. 20 pf. ) . It diverges at Dolhain ( p. 226) from the Rhenish line, and near (8 M.) Welkenraedt passes the Eineburg, or Emma burg, once a country- residence of Charlemagne, where his secretary Egin hard' is said to have become enamoured of the emperor's daughter Emma, whom he afterwards married. Near ( 121/2 M.) Montzen - Moresnet are se veral châteaux and the ruin of Schimper, picturesquely situated on a cliff above the Göhl . About 13/4 M. to the E. is the Altenberg or Vieille Mont agne (Restaurant Bergerhoff; Casino), the central point of the territory about 11/2 sq . M. in area possessed in common by Prussia and Belgium from 1815 to 1889, with some exhausted zinc- mines . - 131/2 M. Bleyberg ( Belgian custom -house ), with lead and zinc- mines . 20:/ » M. Aic- la- Cha pelle (Templerbend Station ); see Baedeker's Rhine. Through - trains of the Bergisch -Märkisch Railway from Brussels to Düsseldorf go by this line (express from Calais to Berlin in 203/4 hrs. ) . The train starts from the Station des Guillemins at Liège, crosses the handsome Pont du Val- Bénoît, passes ( 11/2 M.) Angleur ( junction of the Ligne de l'Ourthe, for which see p. 214) and the extensive zinc -foundry of the Vieille Montagne Co. (p. 214) , and crosses the Ourthe near its confluence with the Vesdre. 2 M. Chénée (6500 inhab . ), at the mouth of the Vesdre , is a busy manufacturing place with copper - foundries and glass-works . Branch -line to Herve, Battice, and Aubel (p . 226) . 4 M. Chaudfontaine (* Grand Hôtel des Bains, pens. 7-10 fr.; Hôtel d'Angleterre), a small and beautifully - situated watering -place, attracts numerous visitors from Liège. The thermal spring ( 104° Fahr.) used for the baths is situated on an island in the Vesdre , which is connected with the bank by a handsome suspension - bridge. Chaud fontaine, like the German watering- places , boasts of a ' Cursaal' situated near the station, in the garden of which concerts are given in summer. From the back of the church a pleasant path , provided with seats, leads to the top of the hill ( 10 min . ), which rises above the village and commands a fine view of the valley of the Vesdre (best from the pilgrimage -church of Chèvremont) . A pleasant walk ( 2 hrs. ) leads past Embourg and through the park of the Villa Sainval (with the permission of the gardener or lodge- keeper) to Tilff, in the valley of the Ourthe (p. 214). On the rocks to the right, beyond the tunnel, is perched the tur reted old castle of Troom, which has been used for upwards of a century as a factory for boring gun-barrels. Beyond it is the station of the same name. A picturesque route leads from Trooz viâ Prayon into the gorge of the Soumagne, with its picturesque limestone cliffs , where the stream BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 15 226 Route 30. DOLHAIN . occasionally disappears from view. Another pleasant walk may be taken to the S. through the rocky valley of Masbeux, with a handsome new château and the old castle of Gomzé, viâ Louveignez and Deigné to (24/2 3 hrs. ) Remouchamps (p. 231). Several other prettily situated châteaux are passed (Fraipont Bas, etc. ). Then ( 91/2 M. ) Nessonvaux. 12/ M. Pepinster ( Gr. Hột, de la Station ; Buffet), with 2500 inhab ., is the junction for Spa and Luxembourg (see RR. 31 , 32). The name is said to be derived from 'Pepin's terre', the district having anciently belonged to the ancestors of Charlemagne. The beautiful park of the Château des Masures (Mr. Bioll de Donéa ), about 1 M. farther on , to the right, is open to strangers . Stat. Ensival ( Gr. Taverne Continentale ), on the left, is almost a suburb of Verviers. 151/2 M. Verviers. Hotels. HÔTEL DE LONDRES, Pont St. Laurent ; HÔT. DU CHEMIN DE FER, HÔTEL D'ALLEMAGNE, at the station, Cafés Restaurants. Grand Café des Neuf Provinces, Taverne de l'Emulation , in the Place Verte ; Café du Globe, Rue du Collège. Tramway between the stations and to Dison and Ensival (see below) . Verviers, with 47,700 inhab., excluding the adjoining communes of Hodimont and Dison (see below), is a town of modern origin , con taining numerous extensive manufactories, which have flourished here since the 18th century. Cloth is the staple commodity of the place. Upwards of 390,000 pieces are manufactured annually in Verviers and the environs, about one-third of which is exported. Yarn is also spun here in considerable quantity. In the new part of the town, to the left of the approach to the station , is a hand some brick church in the Gothic style. A monument erected in the Place du Martyr in 1880 commemorates Chapuis, a citizen exe cuted in 1794 by the prince-bishop of Liège . Pretty walks on the right bank of the Vesdre and to the residential suburbs of Heusy and Lambermont. Napoleon III. spent a night in the Hôtel du Chemin de Fer in 1870, when on his way as a prisoner to Wilhelms höhe. Travellers the other direction undergo the Belgian custom-house examination at Verviers . Besides the main line described below another line runs from VER VIERS TO LIÈGE, VIÂ HERVE, in 1 hr. 40 min ., traversing numerous viaducts and tunnels, especially near (21/2 M.) Dison (Hôtel des Neuf Provinces ; Gr. Hôt. de Paris), see above. From ( 8 M.) Battice a branch diverges to ( 71/2 M.) Aubel, whence it is being continued to Bleyberg, see p. 225 . 91/2 M. Herve( Poisson d'Or) . From (15 M ) Fléron the train descends a rapid gradient to (21 M.) Vaux and (211/2 M.) Chénée (see p. 225 ). - 21 M. Liège. Beyond Verviers the train passes through seven tunnels and crosses several bridges within a short distance. — 17 M. Verviers - Est. 201/2' M. Dolhain ( Hôtel d'Allemagne ; du Casino de la Gi leppe, new, both near the station ), the last station in Belgium, a modern place , picturesquely situated in the valley of the Vesdre, occupies the site of the lower part of the ancient city of Limburg. On the height above it stands the conspicuous castle of Limburg, the ancestral seat of the ancient ducal family of Limburg, from which the counts of Luxembourg and the German emperors Hen HERBESTHAL. 30. Route. 227 > ry VII. , Charles IV. , Wenceslaus, and Sigismund were descended . The castle belonged to the ancient capital of the fertile Duchy of Limburg, of which but few traces now remain . The city possessed a cathedral and five other churches, and occupied the entire breadth of the valley of Dolhain. In 1288 it was sacked by Duke John I. of Brabant after the Battle of Worringen, it was afterwards taken and pillaged at different times by the Dutch , the Spaniards, and the French , and was at length entirely destroyed by Louis XIV. in 1675. A number of well - built houses have sprung up within the walls of the ancient fortific tions , from which peeps forth the old Gothic Church of St. George, containing a tabernacle of 1520. A visit may be paid to the château and gardens of Mr. Andrimont, to which visitors are admitted on application . Fine view from the old Esplanade. From Dolhain a visit viâ Goé may be paid (1 hr. ) to the interesting Barrage de la Gileppe, the road to which ascends the valley of the Vesdre for about 2 m .,and then follows a lateral valley to the right. A branch. railway from Dolhain to Béthane is under construction . The Barrage de la Gileppe ( Hôtel- Restaur . du Barrage ) , a triumph of modern en gineering , was constructed in 1869-78 byMessrs. Braive, Caillet, & Co., from a plan by the engineer Bidaut ( d . 1868 ), for the purpose of forming a reser voir of pure, soft water for the use of the manufactories of Verviers . It consists of an immense embankment, 90 yds . long and 72 yds. thick at the base, and 256 yds . long and 16 yds. thick at the top, carried across a nar. row part of the valley of the Gileppe. The lake or reservoir thus formed is about 150 ft. in depth, covers an area of 200 acres , and contains 2,700,000,000 gals. of water. It is connected with Verviers by an aqueduct, 51/2 M. long, built by Moulan . On the top of the embankment couches a colossal lion, 43 ft. in height, constructed by Bouré with 243 blocks of sandstone. The total cost of these waterworks amounted to five million francs. On the way back Limburg may be visited. A pleasant walk may also be taken down the Vesdre to chênée (p . 225 ). 241/2 M. Herbesthal ( Hôtel Bellevue ; Hôtel Herren ; * Railway Restaurant), the first Prussian station, is the junction for Eupen (Hôtel Reinartz ; train in 1/4 hr. ) . The custom-house formalities cause a detention of about 1/2 hr. for trains from Belgium. Beyond ( 271/2 M.) Astenet, the train crosses the Göhl Valley by a viaduct of 17 double arches, 125 ft. high . Beyond (30 M.) Ronheide it de scends an incline to 35 M. Aix -la - Chapelle (see Baedeker's Rhine). Thence to Maas tricht, see R. 17 ; to Cologne, Düsseldorf, etc. , see Baedeker's Rhine. - 31. From Pepinster to Trois - Vierges ( Luxembourg ). Spa. 45 M. RAILWAY in 2 hrs. ( fares 5 fr . 60, 4 fr. 40, 2 fr. 85 c .) . Pepinster, see p. 226. The valley of the Hoëgne, which the rail way ascends, is enclosed by picturesque and wooded hills, and en livened by a succession of country-houses, gardens, and manufac tories. From the bridge at ( 13/4 M.) Juslenville we have a pretty view of the château, park , rocks , and high - lying church of that 15 * 228 Route 31 . SPA. - name. Near (21/2 M. ) Theux ( Hôtel- Rest. Lennertz ), a quaint little town with several cloth - factories and iron -works, rises a hill laid out in pleasure- grounds, in which , to the left, stands the ex tensive ruined castle of Franchimont, destroyed as carly as 1145 by a Bishop of Liège (key kept in the village of Marché, to the left, opposite the new convent). The last proprietor is said to have been a robber-knight, who possessed vast treasures buried in the vaults beneath his castle, where they remain concealed to this day. The tradition is gracefully recorded by Sir Walter Scott in his lines on the Towers of Franchimont, 'Which, like an eagle's nest in air , Hang o'er the stream and hamlet fair . Deep in their vaults , the peasants say, A mighty treasure buried lay, Amass'd through rapine and through wrong By the last lord of Franchimont' . Above Theux the Hoëgne describes a wide curve towards the E. , and the train enters the valley of the Wayai. 41/2 M. LaReid ; the village is on the hill , 2 M. to the right ( comp. p . 231) . Farther on , also to the right, lies Marteau ( p. 231). 71/2 M. Spa. Hotels . HÔTEL DE FLANDRE, Rue Xhrouet, R. 3-12 , L.3/4, A. 1 , B. 11/2, déj. 31/2, D. 41/2 fr.; HÔTEL D'ORANGE, Rue Royale ; HÔTEL DES Pays-BAYS, Rue du Marché ; HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE , Rue Entre les Ponts, R., L. , & A. from 41/4, B. 11/2, déj. 31/2, D. 41/2, pens. from 11, omn. 1 fr.; HÔTEL BRITANNIQUE, Rue de la Sauvenière ; HÔTEL D’YORK (English house) , Rue Xhrouet, R., L., & A. 4-5, B. 11/2, D. 41/2 , omn. 1 fr .; HÔTEL DU MIDI , Avenue du Marteau, R. 3 fr., D. 41/2 fr. ; HÔTEL DE BELLEVUE, same street Gr. Hôtel DES Bains, Place Royale ; Hôtel DU PALAIS ROYAL , Rue du Marché ; Hôtel Royal, Rue Amontville ; HÔTEL DU NORD , Place Pierre le-Grand ; HÔTEL DE PORTUGAL, Place Royale, R., L. , & A. 3-6, B. 1 , déj. incl. wine31/2 , D. incl. wine 41/2, pens, from 11,'omn. 14/2 fr. i HÔTEL DE LAEKEN, Rue Royale; HÔTEL DES ETRANGERS, Rue du Marché; HÔTEL DES DEUX-FONTAINES , Place Pierre- le -Grand ; HÔTEL DE COLOGNE, Avenue du Marteau ; HÔTEL DE LA CHAINE-D'OR , Avenue du Marteau, pens. from 6 fr.; HÔTEL DE LA Poste, Rue du Marché; HÔTEL BRIGHTON , Rue de la Sau venière, pens, 8 fr.; HÔTEL DE VERSAILLES, Rue de l'Hôtel- de-Ville . Table d'hôte generally at 5 o'clock . ' Pension' at some of the hotels 7-13 fr . Furnished Apartments may be easily obtained. Omnibuses from the principal hotels are in waiting at the station . Restaurants. Casino, see p . 229 ; at most of the above -named hotels ; others at the Géronstère, the Sauvenière, and Barisart, all dear. - Beer at the Brasserie de Munich, Place Royale. Carriages. There are three kinds of carriages : those with one horse and seats for two persons ; those with one horse and seats for three ; and others with two horses. The respective fares for these are : Tour des Fontaines' ( a visit to the different springs ; 2 hrs.) 6, 8, 10 fr.; to Sart and Francorchamps, returning past the sauvenière (31/2 hrs.), 10, 12, 15 fr .; Theux and Franchimont ( 21/2 hrs.) 8, 10, 12 fr .; Grotte de Remouchamps (3 hrs.) 16, 20, 25 fr.; Cascade de Coo (3 hrs. ) 16 , 18 , 25 fr., viâ Stavelot 18, 20 , 30 fr. Horses. Ponies (“bidets'), of a peculiar variety and as sure -footed as asses or mules, are much used ; ride of 2 hrs . 5 fr. ; each additional hour 2 fr.; Grotte dé Remouchamps 15 fr.; Cascade de Coo 15 fr .; etc. Visitors' Tax . Since the suppression of gaming the directors of the baths have exacted the following charges from frequenters of the Casino, the Winter Garden , and the Park : 1 pers. for a fortnight 20, 2 pers. 30, 3 pers. 40 fr .; for the season60, 90, or 110 fr . Day-tickets for the Casino , 11/2 fr . , for the Park, 'Pavillon des Petits Jeux' and Pouhon 11/2 fr ., for the concerts in the Park or the " Pavillon des Jeux' 50 c . 1 23 Francorchamps, Stavelot The Theux 1Lepinster Sart Luxembourg 22222 duFonts Lonnel Bois : Chi du 3350 230 Ferie mdale 320 SPA puat Marteau . LeNoubois 260 290 Amblève , Remouchamps de Grotte & Reid La Scroix Sal Levooz Spa 275 270 sont delaSauveure Gresbet 275 Croc BOLS 275 Всh chaude Bois 295 340 313 lilavete Minières des e.Thier 370 Croix Hoctaisart State de 380 EOT .Bart 3.10 Weckter Bois de B-o Porthon Le Bois Colette Fagne Creppe Tihero , Maji LES ENVIRONS DESPA . 1:40.000 190 809 60 10 100 Mètres . Geograph .Inst ,von eronstere poraine Gleise Lovocado deCoo Wagner Debes .Lhang SPA. 31. Route. 229 2 Concerts. In the Promenade de Sept Heures at 2.30 and at 7.30 p.m. (see below) . No music in the forenoon . Post and Telegraph Office , Rue Neuve. Theatre , performances on Sun., Tues., and Thurs. evenings. Clubs. Cercle des Etrangers, at the Casino (subs. 30 fr ., including right of admission to the balls, etc.) ; Union Club ; Lawn Tennis Club. Physicians. Dr. Thompson ; Dr. Lezaak, Place Royale ; Dr. Scheuer, Rue de la Sauvenière ; Dr. de Damseaux ; Dr. Poskin . English Church Service, in the handsome English Church in the Boul. des Anglais ; Sunday services at 8.30 , 11 , and 7. 30 ; daily at 8.30 a.m. Presbyterian Service in July and August at the Chapelle Evangélique. Spa (820-1080 ft.above the sea-level) , a small , attractive looking town with 6500 inhab. , is prettily situated at the S. base of wooded heights, at the confluence of three streams, the Wayai, the Picherotte, and the Spa. Like other watering -places, it consists chiefly of hotels and lodging -houses , while numerous shops and bazaars with tempting souvenirs and trinkets , a pleasure - seeking throng in the promenades , and numbers of importunate valets-de-place and persons of a similar class , all combine to indicate that character which occasioned the introduction of its name into the English language as a generic term. This , the original and genuine ‘Spa', the oldest European watering - place of any importance , has flourished for a century and a half , and was the Baden-Baden of the 18th century , the fashionable resort of crowned heads and nobles from every part of Europe. Peter the Great was a visitor here in 1717, Gustavus III . of Sweden in 1780, the Emp. Joseph II. and Prince Henry of Prussia in 1781 , and the Emp. Paul , when crown-prince in 1782 ; to whom might be added a long list of members of the noble families of England , France, Germany, and still more distant countries, who have patronised Spa and benefited by its waters . After the French Revolution its prosperity began to decline, but it has of late regained much of its popularity, and many new buildings have sprung up. It is now fre quented by upwards of 12,000 visitors annually, alarge proportion of whom are English . The pretty painted and varnished woodwares offered for sale everywhere are a speciality of Spa (“ bois de Spa' ). The town is entered from the station by the Avenue du Marteau (p. 231), which leads to the Place Royale. The new and imposing Etablissement de Bains situated here is admirably fitted up ( open 6 a.m. to 66 p.m.; baths 60 c. - 1 fr. 80 c. ) . Near it, in the Rue Royale , is the Casino, corresponding to the 'Cursaal of German baths, containing ball, concert, and reading rooms (see above). In the neighbourhood is a new Romanesque church , by Cluysenaar. In the Place Pierre -le -Grand, in the centre of the town , and nearly opposite the Casino , is situated the chief of the sixteen mineral springs , called the Pouhon (the Walloon word pouhir puiser in French , and pouhon puits, or well ). The pump-room erected here in 1820 was replaced in 1880 by a more handsome edifice with covered promenades , conversation - rooms, and a 230 Route 31 . SPA . beautiful winter-garden (see p. 228) . The water of this spring (500 Fahr. ), which is perfectly clear , and strongly impregnated with iron and carbonic acid gas, possesses tonic and invigorating proper ties , and is largely exported to all parts of the continent, to Eng land , and to the E. and W. Indies. Adjacent, in the Rue Dundas, is the Pouhon du Prince de Condé, the water of which is also ex ported. The favourite lounge of visitors in the afternoon and evening is the Promenade de Sept- Heures, shaded by magnificent old elms (unfortunately seriously ured by a storm in 1876 ), where good band plays (p. 229). The Place Royale ( p. 230) , immediately ad joining the promenade, is also much frequented. During the con certs a charge of 50 c. is made to non - subscribers for admission to the Promenade de Sept Heures . —Pleasant paths diverging from the promenades ascend the neighbouring hills, leading through the woods to fine points of view. Opposite the music-pavilion of the Place Royale is an entrance to the Montagne d'Annette et Lubin, with a café. We may thence extend our walk down to ( 41/2 M.) the valley of the Chawion, which flows into the Wayai near La Reid (p . 228 ). The various springs in the environs are most conveniently visited in the following order in 21/2-3 hrs . (le tour des fontaines ). We first follow , passing the Pouhon on the right, the broad Rue de la Cascade, which is embellished by a fountain with genii, by Jaquet. The prolongation of this street, which leads uphill, and is named Rue de la Sauvenière, is crossed by the railway, just after quitting the town. We now follow the high-road (to the Sauvenière, 11/2 M.; Francorchamps, 5 M.) , which is pleasantly shaded by elms, to the Sa lon Levoz, an old gambling-house, with a garden. Here we turn to the left into an avenue, which leads in 20 min. (on the left a retrospec tive view of Spa) to the Tonnelet (250 ft. higher than the Pouhon ), a spring now less in vogue that formerly. —About 1/2 M. to the N.E. of the Tonnelet rises the spring of Nivezé, now called the Source Marie Henriette, in consequence of a visit of the Queen of Belgium in 1868 ; its water is co to the Etablissement de Bains. From the Tonnelet a road ascends to the S. , through forests of birch and pine, to the ( 20 min .) Sauvenière (Restaurant), sit uated 460 ft. above the Pouhon , on the road from Spa to Francorchamps and Malmedy. Close to it is the Groesbeck spring, surrounded with pleasant plantations, where a monument was erected in 1787 on the Promenade d'Orléans by the Duc de Chartres (Louis Philippe) , to commemorate the fact that his mother, the Duchess of Orleans, was cured of a serious illness by the waters of the Sauvenière. At the Fontaine de Groesbeck, women are some times observed devoutly drinking the water on their knees , thus showing their simple faith in its miraculous virtues. Opposite the Restaurant la Sauvenière a promenade leads at a right angle from the high-road to the (40 min. ) Géronstère ( Restaurant), situated SPA. 31. Route. 231 470 ft. higher than the Pouhon , and also reached ( 21/2 M. ) by a direct road from Spa. (Leaving the Place Pierre -le -Grand by the church on the right, we pass the Hôtel de Flandre and ascend the Rue du Vauxhall ; about 100 yds. from the railway, we observe, on the left, the former gambling-house of Vauxhall, beyond which the road is called the Rue de la Géronstère . ) The Géronstère Spring was formerly the most celebrated . Its properties were tested by Peter the Great, whose physician extols them in a document still preserved at Spa. The high - road leads to the S. , viâ La Gleize, to the ( 51/2 M.) Waterfall of Coo (see below). In returning to Spa from the Géronstère we soon strike a pleasant carriage- road or the Promenade Meyerbeer on the left skirting the brook , and leading in 20 min. to the Barisart ( 165 ft. above the Pouhon ), which was not enclosed till 1850 but is now much resorted to (Restaurant ). Thence to Spa about 1 M. A beautiful level promenade is afforded by the Avenue du Marteau, a road flanked with a double avenue, and bordered here and there with well-built houses . It leads from the Place Royale to the E. , following the course of the Wayai, to ( 13/4 M. ) Marteau, a hamlet with a château and gardens. EXCURSIONS FROM SPA . The Baraque Michel ( 2200 ft.) , the highest point in Belgium , belonging to the Hohe Venn group on the Prussian frontier, may be reached on foot viâ Sart (p . 232) or from Hockai ( p . 232; to the Baraque, 41/2 M. ) . TO THE CASCADE OF Coo, 10 M, ( carr., see p. 228 ). The road leads past the Géronstère and ascends to the Plateau des Fagnes. Farther on the road forks : the left arm leads viâ (41/2 M.) Andrimont and Roanne to Coo ; the right arm goes to Cour and La Gleize (Auberge Delvenne). At the bridge of Coo a view is suddenly obtained of the pretty Waterfall of Coo , with its picturesque and mountainous environs. Part of the Am blève is here precipitated through two artificial gaps in the rock, made during last century, while the rest of the water flows past the openings and reaches the bottom of the rocks by a circuitous course of 3 M. Near the waterfall is the Hôtel de la Cascade, with a terrace and pavilion . Railway from Trois Ponts (p . 216) vià Coo‘and La Gleize (p . 231) to Stou mont, see R. 27. This also makes a picturesque walk of 2-21/2 hrs. To REMOUCHAMPS, 10-12 M. ( carr., see p . 228 ). The road descends the valley of the Hoëgne to the station of La Reid ( p. 228), and then ascends to the left, through a pretty valley , to Hestroumont and the village of La Reid ( 885 ft. ; 2 M. from the station). It here unites with the steep but more direct bridle- path from Marteau (p . 231) viâ Vieux - Pré. Beyond Haut regard the road descends to - Remouchamps ( Hotel des Etrangers, 'pension’5 fr ., frequently crowd. ed , in which case the inns at Aywaille are preferable ), a station on the railway mentioned at p. 215, and one of the prettiest spots in the valley of the Amblève. The stalactite Grotto is the chief attraction here, and should be visited by those who have not seen the finer caverns of Han sur-Lesse ( p . 192) . The entrance adjoins the Hôtel de la Grotte, above the Hôtel des Etrangers ( admission 3 fr.; torches included ; costume for ladies 11/2 fr. ; trifling fee to the guide, extra). The grotto consists of an upper and a lower part, to which last a night of steps descends, and it is traversed by a brook . Another peculiarity which the limestone basin of Remouchamps has in common with other similar districts is the dis appearance of almost all the streams in the neighbourhood, towards the N., in subterranean clefts or ' entonnoirs' (funnels ), locally called ' chan toirs . The largest of these is the Entonnoir of Adseux, 3 M. to the N, of the 232 Route 31 . MALMEDY. > village. The traveller follows the road through the Sècheval (" dry valley ') as far as the village of Deigné ( p . 226 ), whence a boy had better be taken as a guide . That the brook which disappears in the entonnoirs is the same which re- appears near Remonchamps has frequently been proved by the experiment of throwing in various objects and observing them emerge at the other end . Above Remouchamps the ancient and still occupied château of Mont Jardin, loftily situated on the left bank , peeps down from amid dense foliage. Farther up is the imposing modern château of Mr. de Theux, with a pretty garden (no admission ). Below Remouchamps, and also on the right bank of the Amblève lies Sougné, at the base of the cliff called ' Heid des Gattes' (goats' rock ). Thence we may proceed viâ Dieupart, with a solitary old church, to ( 11/2 M.) Aywaille (p . 215 ). The Luxembourg line beyond Spa at first runs towards the E. , traversing a hilly and partly-wooded district, and afterwards turns to the S. (views to the left). 121/2 M. Sart-lez - Spa ; 15 M. Hockai ; 171/2 M. Francorchamps. Farther on , a fine view of Stavelot is ob tained. 221/2 M. Stavelot ( Hôtel d'Orange; du Commerce ; Am Bahnhof), a busy manufacturing town with 4500 inhab . , on the Amblève, which was the seat of abbots of princely rank and independent jurisdiction down to the Peace of Lunéville in 1801. The Benedictine Abbey was founded as early as 651 , and its possessions included Malmedy, which has belonged to Prussia since 1815. Part of the tower only of the Romanesque abbey -church is now extant. The parish-church contains the * Châsse de St. Remacle, Bishop of Liège in 652-62, a reliquary of embossed copper, gilded , enamelled, and bejewelled , The niches at the sides are filled with statuettes of the Twelve Apostles, St. Remaclius, and St. Lambert, in silver, executed in the 13th century . About 5 M. to the N.E. of Stavelot ( diligence twice daily, crossing the Prussian frontier halfway ) , in a pretty basin of the Warché, lies the Prussian town of Malmedy ( Lottes ; Jacob) , the capital of a Walloon district which formerly belonged to the independent Benedictine abbey of Malmedy- Stavelot, and was annexed to Prussia in 1815. The abbey church, originally in the Romanesque style , and the abbey -buildings, which are occupied by public offices, form an extensive pile . French is still spoken by the upper classes , and the Walloon dialect by the lower throughout the district ( about 10,000 inhab. ) . The line now follows the valley of the Amblève. 251/2 M. Trois - Ponts (see p . 216) , where carriages are changed. Con tinuation of the line to Luxembourg, see R. 27.

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LUXEMBOURG. The Grand- Duchy of Luxembourg, with an area of about 1000 sq . M. and 213,280 inhab. (almost all Roman Catholics) , forms the E. half of the old duchy of Luxembourg ( part ofthe Spanish Netherlands) and from 1839 to 1890 was connected with Holland by a personal union . Down to 1866 it was a member of the Germanic Confederation, but in 1867 it was declared by the Treaty of London a neutral territory, with a separate ad ministration. After the death of King William III . of Holland in 1890, it passed according to the treaty of succession to the Grand -duke Adolf (of Nassau ; b. 1817). It still belongs to the German Zollverein or Customs' Union, but as the duty on spirits is not raised as in Germany. a tolerably rigidcustoms examination takes place . The present duchy includes the N.E. part of the Ardennes and shares the general characteristics of that district, consisting of a somewhat mono tonous plateau (with an average height of about 1600 ft . ) , with extensive woods and a somewhat raw climate . The last trait is specially character istic of the N. part of the duchy , sometimes called the Desling or Eisling, which belongs to the 'Grauwacke' or clay-slate formation , while the S.E. part consists of variegated sandstone. The plateau , however , is inter sected by numerous deeply-cut valleys , which offer many points of interest to the tourist and artist. The inhabitants, though of pure Teutonic race, are strongly French in their sympathies, especially in the upper classes . The popular language is a low -German dialect , very unintelligible to strangers ; the official lan guages are French and German . The official currency is the same as in Belgium ( francs and centimes) , the grand -duchy having joined the Latin Monetary Union ; but German money is also freely current (comp. p . xii) . The hotels are generally good and their charges moderate. The beer and wine is usually fair, even in the smaller villages. The best of the local wines is that of Wormeldingen, on the Moselle. The Kirschengeist, or cherry -brandy, of Befort, near Echternach, has a local reputation . 32. From ( Liège) Trois-Vierges to Luxembourg. 43 M. Railway in about 21/2 hrs . (fares 5 fr . 60, 3 fr. 70, 2 fr . 40 c . ) . No express trains. From Liège to Trois-Vierges ( German Ulflingen ), see RR . 27, 31 . Trois- Vierges, see p. 216. Beyond Trois-Vierges the railway, now under German manage ment, continues to follow the Wolz. 3 M. Maulusmühle, properly Maulfesmühle. The sides of the valley increase in height, their upper slopes being wooded. 5 M. Clerf or Clervaux (Claravallis ), a picturesquely -situated industrial place ( Hôtel Köner, well spoken of) to the E. of the line, with an old castle, visible from the line before and after the passage of the tunnel, but not from the station . The well-preserved, high-lying castle now belongs to the Count de Berlaymont. Fine view from the adjoining height called ' Gibraltar' . On a rocky knoll opposite the station lies the Loretto Chapel. An omnibus runs from Clerf to Dasburg (p. 240). 234 Route 32. OBERWILTZ. From Trois - Vièrges Pedestrians will be repaid by alighting from the train at Maulusmühle and walking thence to Clerf. Theyfollow the right slope of the valley till they reach the road descending from Asselborn , with its leaning church tower. At Hetzingen, 3 M. from Asselborn , is the old Klause, with a celebrated carved altar. Near the adjacent frontier-village of Hoffelt be gins a subterranean canal, 11/2 M. long, which was intended to connect the Řhine and the Maas, but was abandoned in 1830 . Another pleasant walk may be taken from Clerf along the left bank of the Wolz through the parish ( ' Kigchelt' ) of Pintsch, viâ Drauffelt (railway-station) to Enche ringen near Wilwerwiltz (see below ); and thence over the hills (the Plackige Lei) to Erpeldingen and (31/2 hrs. from Clerf ) Niederwiltz (see below ) . Several tunnels now follow in rapid succession. 11 M. Wilwer wiltz ( Inn, at the station ); diligence daily viâ Hosingen (Hippert's Inn) to Dasburg (p . 240). Below Wilverwiltz the valley contracts, and as far as Kautenbach it is known as the Clerfthal. The numerous windings of the Wolz, which is crossed by ten bridges, are avoided by five tunnels. Be tween the second and third tunnels, to the left, is the picturesque ruin of *Schütburg (reached direct from Kautenbach in 35 min . with permission of the station-master ; or viâ Altscheid) . - 15 M. Kautenbach (Frederer, tolerable), a quaint village at the confluence of the Wilz and the Wolz, with houses clinging to the face of the rock. A branch -line runs hence to (121/2 M. ) Benonchamps (p. 194 ) viâ Wiltz (see below). Another highly interesting walk may be taken to Wiltz (railway, see above and p. 194 ), with which may be combined a visit to Esch an der Sauer (6-7 hrs.) . Leaving Kautenbach we proceed viâ Merckholz to Nieder wiltz (Hames, at the station), a brisk little town with leather and cloth factories, on the left side of the valley. A road leads hence, on the other slope of the valley, to Oberwiltz ( * Hôtel des Ardennes, with carriages for hire, 9 fr . per day), situated on a narrow ridge. We continue to follow the road to Esch (short-cut for walkers), and beyond the next cross -roads, we descend, following the tele graph -wires (shorter footpaths), into a wooded basin. On the hill to the right lies the village of Biderscheid. A little lower down we find ourselves at the mouth of the tunnel by which the road to Esch penetrates the high and serrated wall of the Kohlesterlei. On emerging from the tunnel we obtain a splendid * View of the valley. Following the windings of the Sauer, we see above us the Chapel of St. Anna. Beyond the last bend lies Esch an der Sauer (Greisch ) , an unimportant village in a romantic and sequestered situation , from which it is also called Esch - le - Trou ('Esch in the hole ' ). The ruins of the * Castle, in the 11-13th cent. the seat of a branch of the ducal family of Lorraine and still partly inhabited by poor families, occupy the top of a bare black rock , bifurcated by a deep inden tation and surrounded by loftier heights. The best view of the castle-rock is obtained from the S. side . - In returning we may either follow the direct route to Kautenbach ( 21/2 hrs. ) over the plateau , viâ Hacher and Goesdorf (with an antimony mine, now almost exhausted), or proceed to Göbelsmühle (6 M.; p . 235 ) . The new road on the left bank of the Sauer to the last diverges from the Wiltz road at the finger-post just on this side of the Sauer bridge, opposite the inn of Reuter -Pennink, and leads high up on the hill - side to the left ( views) to Heiderscheidergrund , a prettily situated village on the right bank of the Sauer . About 3 M. farther on is Tadler, with a small waterfall. Below the Buchholtz Mill , to the left , is the huge and precipitous Teufelslei, and near Derenbach rises another imposing rock . We now cross the Sauer twice, by an old and a new bridge, and reach the narrow ravine of Göbelsmühlé. to Luxembourg. ETTELBRÜCK. 32. Route. 235 The railway continues to follow the narrow , rocky valley of the Wilz, which at this point is only partly accessible to walkers. Three tunnels. 171/2 M. Göbelsmühle (Lauterbour , plain), at the con fluence of the Wilz and the Sauer. Three more tunnels. On a height to the left is Schlindermanderscheid. To the right, on an isolated hill, is the many-towered castle of Burscheid. The castle owes its dilapidated condition partly to a bombardment by the French in 1685, but chiefly to modern vandalism . The path ascend to the (40 min. ) castle and the village of Burscheid ( Inn) , which is situ ated higher up, begins at a group of houses to the left, at the mouth of the tunnel . From the top a rough path ads direct to Göbelsmühle viâ Fischetterhof, and from the village a picturesque new carriage- road also leads thither in 11/2 hr. 20 M. Michelau . The valley of the Sauer contracts , and the train passes through three tunnels. The picturesque rocky scenery of this part of the valley (Wildlei, Scharflei, Jaufferslei, Predigt stuhl) is not seen to advantage from the railway, but walkers may ex plore it when the water is low (enquiry should be made of one of the railway officials or signalmen ). — The château of Erpeldingen ( stat.) contains an alabaster chimney - piece of the Renaissance. The valley now expands and forms a wide basin , in which, above the confluence of the Alzette and the Sauer, lies ( 231/2 M.) Ettelbrück ( Hôtel Herckmans ; Rail. Restaurant), a small town (4000 inhab . ), with an interesting church , pleasantly situated at the confluence of the Warke and the Alzette. Fine view from the Nuck (belvedere ). From Ettelbrück to Diekirch and Wasserbillig , see p. 239. – A branch line also runs hence to Bettingen ( p. 195) , viâ Useldingen, with a ruined castle and Gothic chapel ; etc. At Ettelbrück the train enters the valley of the Alzette, which is at first narrow and picturesque, and follows it to Luxembourg. To the right, on a wooded hill, stands the château of Birtringen. 26 M. Colmar-Berg (Concemius ; Meris), at the confluence of the Alzette and Attert, with an old castle of the Counts of Nassau, partly rebuilt in the English -Gothic style by King William III. ( d. 1890 ), and surrounded with pleasant grounds (visitors admitted ). The valley again contracts. Tunnel. 28 M. Kruchten . FROM KRUCHTEN TO LA ROCHETTE, 71/2 M., narrow -gauge railway in 40 min. ( fares 1 fr. 5 , 65 c .). The line runs viâ Dorf Kruchten , Schrondweiler, and Medernach (where the fine mosaic pavement in the Luxembourg Museum and numerous other Roman antiquities were found), to La Rochette, Ger. Fels ( Poste , 'pens .' 5 fr.; Hilger- Lortz, also a wine-merchant's), finely situated in the valley of the Weisse Erenz and adapted for a stay of some duration . On a rock rising perpendicularly above the town are the extensive ruins of the old * Castle (reached by the ' Chemin de la Ruine' ; small fee to the attendant ; ring). The N. part of the ruin, including the hall , chapel, and kitchen, is in best preservation. The tower on the opposite rock is a relic of a fortress which completely commanded the valley. From La Rochette we may proceed viâ (3/4 hr.) the château of Meysemburg (shown in the absence of the owner, the Duc d'Arenberg) and Angelsberg to ( 11/2 hr. ) Mersch ( p . 236 ). From LA ROCHETTE TO ECHTERNACH , a pleasant excursion of 1-2 days. A road leads to the E. from La Rochette , across the watershed be tween the Weisse and Schwarze Erenz, to (41/2 M.) the village of Christnach 236 Route 32. MERSCH. From Trois - Vièrges (Hôtel- Restaurant Brandenburger-Mersch ), the Roman Crucenacum , and then descends through the ravine of the Kesselter Bach to the sombre wooded valley of the Schwarze Erenz . [ The high- road goes on to Breitweiler and Cons dorf, whence we may proceed through the valley of the Lauterbach , with the Leiwerdelt Rocks, to Echternach ( p. 241).] The upper part of the valley of the Erenz , and also the Blumenthal, at the mouth of the Hugerbach, contain some picturesque rocks , which are, however, inferior to those lower down. Just below the Breitweiler Bridge begins a series of most fantastic rocky formations (the finest points made accessible by pathsand pointed out by finger -posts ). The Erenz forms a small waterfall ( 25 ft. ñigh) at the Promenaden -Brücke, beyond which a path ascends (right) to (25 min.) the Eulenburg and Goldfralei. Skirting the stream, we nextreach the Müllerthal, with a group of mills , and the Heringerburg (to the left ). Thence we follow the road to ( 3 M. ) Vogelsmühle. Beyond the bridge, at the finger -post marked ' 4 Kil.', the new road ascends to the left to Befort or Beaufort ( Bleser ; Binsfeld ; Klein ), a village on the Taupeschbach, famed for its cherry- brandy. In the valley below are the ' new ' and the ' old' Castle ; the latter , in spite of decay and vandalism , is still the most important Renaissance structure in the di strict after Vianden (p. 240) . Both châteaux are shown to visitors . , From Befort we may visit the pretty Hallerbach Valley, with its fantastic rocks natural rock -bridges, and luxuriant vegetation . We descend the valley of the Erenz to Grundhof - Neumühle (see p . 240 ), on the railway from Diekirch to Wasserbillig. Paths lead from the inn and from the mill to the top of the lofty cliffs on the right bank of the Erenz. Among the most striking points in the fantastic rocky scenery are the Hölle ( lights necessary), the Caselt (view ), the Winterbachsfelsen , the Schnellert, the clefts of the Binzerlei, and the * Sept Gorges or Sieben schlüt', the latter showing a singular chaos of immense rocks. Guide ad visable ; Thiel of Echternach (Rue de Sure) may be recommended . — We now proceed across the plateau to the E. to Berdorf ( Wagner'; Kinnen ), a large village, with an old parish - church. The altar is formed of a Roman ' ara' , with reliefs of Hercules , Juno, Minerva , and Apollo (fee to the sa cristan ). To the S. of Berdorf stretches the Ehsbachthal, with the Hohllei, an artificial cavern formed by the quarrying of mill- stones, and popularly supposed to have been first used by the Romans. — A good path descends through the ravine to the rocky gorge known as the Shipka Pass. At the point where the new Berdorf road quits the valley, to the left (sign-post) , opens the picturesque valley of the Halsbach (with the Wilkeschkammer ). At the angle of the two gorges rises the lofty Perikop, which may be ascended by a kind of rocky cheminée ' or funnel. Farther on in the Ehsbachthal is the Labyrinth (right bank ; way - post) ; the Geiersweg, on the left bank , leads to an interesting rocky gateway. At the end of the valley is the romantic * Wolfsschlucht, through which we may descend to the right (way- post) to the valley of the Sure ( p. 240 ). A pleasant détour may be made viâ the Pavilion , which commands a good view of Echter nach ( p . 241). 311/2 M. Mersch (Hôtel - Restaur. de la Gare ; Hôtel Steffen ; Weyer ; carriage 10 fr. per day) , a small town at the confluence of the Eisch, the Mamer, and the Alzette . The château (17th cent . ) contains some fine vaulted apartments. EXCURSIONS. The Valley of the Eisch is characterised by pictur esque sandstone formations and fresh green woods. We proceed from Mersch, viâ Rickingen , to the ( 19/4 hr. ) château of Hohlenfels, perched upon a weather- beaten rock and now occupied by a farmer (small fee ). The newer portion of the building dates from the 16th cent. ; the remains of the older part include a lofty tower ( fine view from the top ), with two vaulted chambers. A little higher up lies the poor village of Hohlenfels (no inn) . On the way to the castle is the figure of a saint, hewn out of the solid rock . - About 1/2 M. to the S.E. are the scanty ruins of the nunnery of Marienthal, founded in 1237. The adjoining building is occupied by Do and then E Code -an Cor Each, with the valley sgerlich T to those parbsand Get reach ener road de car and in the di Than From astic rocks tank of the Guide ded. - 12 of a Bus ai popular ith disante i sinntek hich mark Genere, a 3r descendo er of Edt tel Stefan ontinence of (lithcent, ed br pieter pa ceed the cally CORSETE puedbyhis Limpertsberg Diekirch Echternach Eich Spa B с D 2 w Niedergrun Terrass 44 wald Obergrun Septfontaines Champ d.Foires aux bestiau .. Aven Parcliöhe wala! Claigaser Un Lim Mitjáirelos KO PIE Pldu Theatre WarAltmünster Perkare Erle Riviere Remich TA PLGuil Grund terer Ratenie UNITE Aveti MOT Tarstherese B Matre Vard BOR O Boule co Aditte Platea urham Pulv TGVTrier Vall.de Avenstarte mer épicurus Nouvelle Avenue de la tare 5 Ho Petr : are Centrale 5 LUXEMBOURG . 100 100 300 1 : 20.000 200 300 Metres. A B с D d'Hist naturelle 1 Abattoir C.2 . 12 Eglise S !Mathieu B.C.1. 23 Monum.dela princesse A.2 . 2 Athénée, Biblioth Musée B.3. 13 stifichel C.2. 24. Palais de Justice B.C.2 . 3 Bains et lavoirs B.2. 14 Chap.s! Quirin C.4. 25 Postes et Télégraphes A.B.3. 4 Chambre des députés. B.3 . 15 Temple israélite. B.3. 26 Prisonset dép.demendicité C.3 . 5 Douanes B.2. 16 Temple protestant B.3. 27 Theatre B.2. 6 Ecole de musique. A.2.17 Evêché B.2. 28 Pont du Chateau C.2. 7 Séminaire B.3. 18 Hôpital civil C.2 . 8 Eglise St Alphonse B.2. 19 Hôtel du Gouvernement. B.3. 9 Notre Dame B.3. 20 H.dela maison Royale B.2.3. 10 StCunégonde D.1.2. 21 H.de ville, Musée Pescatore B.3. 11 s ! Jean C.3. 22 Maison curiale B.3. ph Anstalt von 8 Wagner & Debes lipipais to Luxembourg. LUXEMBOURG. 32. Route . 237 minicans. Following the Eisch towards the S.W. we reach ( 20 min . ) the château of Ansemburg, a building of the 17th cent. , with a gar den in the French style. Opposite is a flight of steps ascending to the old chapel, on a steep wooded slope. A little farther on is the village of Ansemburg ( Schenten ), commanded by the picturesque ivy - clad ruins (partly inhabited ) of the old castle , situated on a lofty sandstone rock. Fine view from the top. The best view of the village and old castle is obtained from a meadow beyond the modern château , reached by a bridge over the Eisch . (From Ansemburg we may proceed through the pictur esque Baumbüsch Forest to (24/4 hrs.) Luxembourg, viâ Dondelingen (on the high- road from Säul to Luxembourg viâ Tuntelingen and Bour; see be low ) and Kapstal, in the valley of the Mamer. ) Ascending the course of the Eisch we reach Bour and ( 1 hr . ) Simmern ( Simon -Wagner, near the church) , properly Siebenborn , French Septfontaines, with an interesting church and the ruins of a castle, picturesquely situated near the top of a wooded hill . In a side- valley which opens here to the S. lies (1 hr. ) Körich, with a medieval church and castle. - We may now return to the N. viả Säul (Gaasch ) and (2-3 hrs. ) Useldingen , or we may ascend from Ansemburg, by the convent - farm of Marienthal to the Claushof, and then descend viâ the château of Schönfels (Toussaint's Inn) and the valley of the Mamer to Mersch ( p . 236 ). 34 M. Lintgen ; 351/2 M. Lorentzweiler ; 3812 M. Wolferdange or Walferdingen , with a grand-ducal château; 4012 M.Dommel dange or Dommeldingen, with large blast- furnaces, also the station for the manufacturing town of Eich (opposite ). - The train now passes the Pfaffenthal (see below) , spanned by an old bridge with towers, traverses two viaducts, and enters the central station ( Gare Centrale ) of Luxembourg. 43 M. Luxembourg. Hotels. * Hôtel BRASSEUR (Pl. A, 2), R. , L., & A. 2-6 , B. 1 , déj . 2 , D. 2 fr. 60 c . , pens. from 8 fr ., omn . 60 c.; HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE (Pl. B, 2) , well spoken of ; HÔTEL DE COLOGNE (Pl. B , 2) ; HÔTEL DE LUXEMBOURG (Pl. C , 2) ; HÔTEL DES Nations, HÔTEL - RESTAUR. CLEsse, both near the station . Restaurants. Faber , Place d'Armes ( Pl . B, 2, 3 ). Cafés. Café Ita lien ; Café Metzler ; Café' de la Place. Tramway from the railway -station through the town to the N. side of the Park (Pl. A, 2 ). Photographs at the book -shops of Brück and Bück. Luxembourg, formerly Lützelburg,once a fortress of the German Confederation , with 19,000 inhab ., is the capital of the grand - duchy of Luxembourg ( p . 231) . The situation of the town is peculiar and picturesque . TheOberstadt, or upper part, is perched upon a rocky table- land , which is bounded on three sides by abrupt preci pices, 200 ft . high. At the foot of these flow the Petrusse and the Al zette, which are bounded by equally-precipitous rocks on the oppo site bank . In this narrow ravine lies the busy Unterstadt or lower portion ofthetown, consisting of Pfaffenthal, the N., Clausen, the E. , and Grund, the S. suburb, separated by the Bock (p . 238 ). The view of the town , with its variety of mountain and valley, gardens and rocks, groups of trees and huge viaducts, is singularly striking. The fortifications, which were partly hewn out of the solid rock , were condemned to demolition by the Treaty of London in 1867, and a few only of their oldest parts have been allowed to remain . The construction of the works gradually progressed during 500 years under various possessors , Henry IV. , Count of Luxembourg, afterwards 238 Route 32. LUXEMBOURG. - German Emp. as Henry VII . (d . 1312), his son John , the blind king of Bohemia (killed at Crécy, 1346 ), the Burgundians , the Spaniards, the French (whose celebrated engineer Vauban constructed a great part of the fortress ), the Austrians , the French again , and finally the German Confederation, by whom it was evacuated in 1866 . From the railway - station (P1.C, 5), we cross the imposing via duct spanning the deep valley of the Petrusse, and follow the tram way along the Boulevard du Viaduc to the centre of the town. To the left is the Place de la Constitution (Pl. B , 3) , affording a beautiful view. In the Place Guillaume (3/4 M. from the station) a Statue of William II., King of the Netherlands, by Mercier ofParis,was erected in 1884. - Opposite the monument, to the E., is the former Govern ment House ( Palais du Roi or Hôtel de la Maison Royale ; Pl. 20, B, 2, 3), a handsome building with two oriel - windows and a long balcony, erected in 1850. The second floor contains an interesting and well arranged collection of Roman, Frankish, and other antiquities (coins, fine Roman glass , etc.) , found chiefly in the Roman camp at Dahl heim and in Frankish tombs at Emmeringen and Waldwies (apply to the custodian ; entrance by the gate to the left ). The Hôtel de Ville (Pl. 21 ; B , 3) , in the Place Guillaume, to the S.W., contains a collection of French (Gudin, Calame, Meissonier, etc. ) and Dutch paintings, bequeathed to the town in 1855 by M. J. P. Pescatore (adm. 50 c .). - The Gothic cathedral of Notre Dame (Pl. 9 ; B, 3) has a fine Renaissance portal (1621 ) and a rococo organ -loft. The site of the fortifications has been converted into a public Park (Pl. A, 3, 2, 1) , adjoined by several new streets. Here also is the Gothic Altersheim, founded by the Pescatore family. No visitor should omit to walk through the park , past the monumentofthe Duchess Amélie of Saxe-Weimar, first wife of the late Prince Henry of the Netherlands, by Pètre (Pl. 23), to the terrace to the left of the Eich road (Pl. B, 1) , which affords a striking view of the Pfaffenthal. A good view of the town is obtained from the S. height of the Ober grunwald ( Pl. C, 1). — A visit to the Bock, a precipitous and for merly fortified rock, connected with the town by the Pont du Château , is also recommended. — Of the magnificent castle and gardens of the Spanish Governor Prince Mansfeld (1545-1604), in the suburb of Clausen (Pl. D, 1 , 2 ), on the right bank of the Alzette, no vestige is left, except a small portion of the wall and two gateways, into which several Roman sculptures are built. The Drei Eicheln, three well - preserved old towers , may also be visited from Clausen (plea sant walk ). The very ancient Chapel of St. Quirinus (Pl. 14 ), in the valley of the Petrusse , hewn in the living rock, contains an altar with old Romanesque sculptures ( key in the house next the old well) . In Aug. and Sept. , the popular Schobermesse, a fair esta blished by the blind king John ( see above) in the 14th cent., takes place outside the Neuthor, to the N. of the town . FROM LUXEMBOURG TO REMICH, 161/2 M., narrow -gauge railway in about 2 hrs. (fares 2 fr ., 1 fr. 25 c . ) . — 2 M. Hesperingen (Weydert; Adams-Speyer ; Entringer), prettily situated in the narrow valley of the Alzette; high - DIEKIRCH. 33. Route. 239 above the village are the ruins of a castle destroyed in 1483. Pleasant walks may be taken to the Pulvermühlthal (p . 242 ), Kolleschberg , etc. 51/2 M. Weiler- la - Tour, taking its name from an ancient Roman tower, 71/2 M. Aspelt, the birthplace of Peter Aichspalt ( d . 1320 ), Archbishop of Mayence. About 2 M. to the N.E., on a hill to the S. of Dahlheim , lies the most important of the four Roman camps of Luxembourg, indicated by a pyramid . [The other three camps are the Titelberg near Rodingen , to the N.E. of Longwy near the W. frontier, the Helperknap near Useldingen (p. 235 ), and Alttrier, usually called Alttrierschanz, to the S.E. of Breit weiler, on the road from Dommeldange to Echternach . ] Extensive view , reaching to Metz . - The train now follows the picturesque valley of the Altbach and approaches the frontier of Lorraine. On a rocky knoll stands the chapel of the Hermitage du Castel. - 91/2 M. Altwies ( Hôtel du Luxem bourg ; de France), connected by a promenade with the saline thermal baths ( 68° Fahr. ) of ( 101/2 M.) Mondorf ( Grand Chef ; Bellevue ; Hôtel de l'Europe), which are efficacious in scrofulous, rheumatic, nervous , and bronchial affections. 161/2 M. Remich (Hotel des Ardennes ; Hotel du Commerce, both in the town ; Restaurant, opposite the station ), a small town with 2300 inhab ., on the sloping bank of theMoselle, connected by a bridge with the Prussian shore . About 31/2 M. farther up the Moselle is Schengen , with an interesting old castle. Diligence from Remich to Nennig , see' Baedeker's Rhine. Railway from Luxembourg to Thionville and Metz , see Baedeker's Rhine. 33. From Luxembourg to Wasserbillig vià Diekirch and Echternach. 52 M. Railway in 31/2 hrs. ( fares 6 m. 60 , 4 m. 50 pf. , 3 m. ) . The train starts from the Central Station . As far as (191/2 M.) Ettelbrück, see p . 235 . 22 M. Diekirch (* Hôtel - Pension des Ardennes, R., L. , A., & B. 31/2, D. 21/2, S. 2, pens. 61/4-81/4 fr.; Hôtel de l'Europe; Maison Rouge; Hôtel du Luxembourg ; baths at Kohn - Tschiderer's, near the railway- station) , a pleasant little town with 3400 inhab., prettily situated on the left bank of the Sure (Ger. Sauer) , at the foot of the Herrenberg and the Schützenberg. It contains two churches, the older ofwhich dates from the 9th cent .; the Church of St. Laurence , an imposing modern building in the Romanesque style, possesses a Pietà by Achtermann. Since the de molition of the old town -walls the town has been surrounded by broad boulevards, planted with trees . A pleasant walk may be taken hence to the Hart, near Gilsdorf, on the right bank of the Sure, with the ruins of a Celtic dolmen. In the vicinity are the pretty waterfalls of the Sasselbach . To the N. of Diekirch a road leads via the Herrenberg and Bastendorf to the ruin of ( 4 M.) Bran denburg (keys at the sexton's), rising from the narrow valley of the Blees . To the right of the entrance is a Roman relief. The return -journey is made past the quaint estate of Kippenhof, on the Hosingen road. FROM DIEKIRCH TO VIANDEN, 81/2 M., steam - tramway in 47 min. , viâ Bleesbruck, Tandel, and Bettel , in the Our valley. Vianden, see p. 240 . The line proceeds through the broad valley of the Sure, flanked with imposing heights. Numerous sandstone- quarries are passed. 241/2 M. Bettendorf, with a château ; the old church- tower rests on a Roman substructure containing a few sculptured stones. Old bridge over the Sure. In the vicinity, to the left, is Moestroff, once a fortified place , containing a castle long inhabited by General Clé 240 Route 33. ECHTERNACH. ment-Thomas, who was shot by the Communists in Paris in 1871 . 271/2 M. Reisdorf (Reckinger's Inn , plain ), situated at the con fluence of the Weisse Erenz and the Sure. 30 M. Wallendorf (Dimmer, plain) , beautifully situated on the left ( Prussian ) bank of the Sure, which is crossed at this point by an old bridge. In the neighbourhood is the Castellberg, a Roman camp with ditches. Wallendorf is the usual starting -point for a visit to the Valley of the Our. The clear stream of the Our, which forms for some distance the boundary between Luxembourg and Prussia , abounds in salmon and other fish . A good road leads along the left bank , viâ Ammeldingen and Gentingen, to Roth, with a well- preserved Templars' Lodge. The castle and old church are situated on a rock rising from the Our. From Roth a path leads upwards througha fir wood to join the high -road descending from Obersgegen . From the top ofthe ascent we obtain a fine view of the town and castle of (7 M.) Vianden (* Hôtel de Luxembourg, on the left bank ; * Hôtel des Etrangers, ' pens.'5 fr .). The Castle , one of the most imposing strongholds in the country, escaped destruction during the wars of Louis XIV. , but has been permitted to fall into decay since 1820. The * Chapel, an elegant decagonal building in the Transition style, was restored in 1849. Other parts of interest are the so - called Nassaubau, the Armoury, the Byzantine Hall, the Hall of the Knights, and the Banqueting Hall, the last with a fine chimney -piece (fee to the custodian ). A tine view of the castle may be obtained from the Belvedere, situated higher up, or from the opposite bank of the river, at a point somewhat below the picturesque old bridge. Affixed to a house in the vicinity is a memorial- tablet to Victor Hugo . who spent a long period of exile here. - From the foot of the castle of Vianden the road leads along the right bank into another narrow and picturesque valley, passing the church of St. Rochus. To the left, on a rocky peak, we see the pilgrimage -chapel of Bildchen , the way to which diverges near the entrance to the castle of Vianden ; it commands a fine view. We next reach the village of Bivels, charmingly situated within a wide bendof the Our; ona steep slope at the entrance of a valley to the right are the ruins of Falkenstein , and farther up the valley ( 11/2 hr.) , at the top of a sheer precipice of rock, the ruins of the Stolzenburg ( Inn , in the village). The new road then leads past Gemünd, at the confluence of the Irres with the Our, to Eisenbach ( Weyland's Inn) , which lies in a wild and rugged valley . At Rodershausen we join the road from Hosingen , over the new bridge (view ), to the Prussian town of Dasburg (accommo dation at Binsfeld's, the brewer and at Ballmann's) , with a ruined castle and lofty tower. More comfortable night -quarters may be had at the Hôtel Hippert in Hosingen (p. 234) . — The wild but monotonous upper valley of the Our is difficult of access , especially in wet weather. It is therefore preferable to follow the road viâ Dahnen (hence with guide or by the detour viâ Sevenich ) and the Wehrbusch to Ouren ( Dairomont's Inn), pictur esquely situated on both banks of the Qur, amid imposing rock -scenery, The village - church contains a St. Joseph with the Child Jesus, painted by Rubens for the barons of Giltingen . From Ouren the road ascends, passing the Luxembourg villages of Weisswampach , Holler, and Binsfeld, with an interesting chapel, to Trois- Vierges (p . 216 ). The nearest railway station is Burgreuland ( p . 216) . Beyond Wallendorf , before reaching which the Sure makes a sudden bend, the valley contracts. The formation of the rocks here is very fantastic ( interesting walk to Echternach .) From the station Dillingen we may reach Befort ( p. 236) through the Mühlbachthal. From the station Grundhof -Neumühle ( p. 236) we see to the right the huge rocks in the valley of theSchwarze Erenz; in the neighbourhood is the large St. Johannishöhle, an almost inaccessible sandstone-cavern. - 34 M. Bollendorf. The pretty village of this name (Hauer's Inn, ECHTERNACH. 33. Route. 241 pens. from 31/2 m. ) lies on the left bank of the Sure, on the site of the Roman Villa Bolluna (*Hotel- Pension Barreau ). It was formerly the country - seat of the Abbots of Echternach, and of late years has been much frequented as a summer- resort. Traces of the Roman occupation still exist in the shape of three bridge-piers , visible only at very low water, a little above the village, and the ‘ Ara Dia nae', or Diana - Altar, in the Niederburg wood, about 1 M. from the village, in the direction of the iron - works of Weilerbach . The altar, which is 13 ft . high, bears the following inscription : DEAB. DIANAE. Q. PostVMIVS. Potens . V. S.; the reliefs are now scarcely recognisable. A stone dedicated to Mercury, in the hotel- garden, is in better preservation . The neighbourhood abounds in charming points for excursions, among which may be mentioned the so - called Schweineställe or Schweigestelle (with a Roman inscription) near the Schenkweiler Klause ; to the E., Ferschweiler with the Wikingerburg, said to be a Norman fortress ; to the S.E. , the rocks of Ernzerhof with the Liborius- Klause, cut out of the rock ( view) ; in the Prümthal, the village of Prüm zur Ley, opposite the ruins of a Templars' lodge. - Herr Barreau affords information as to visiting these points. 381/2 M. Echternach ( Cerf, also ' pension ’; Oberhoffer;; Restaur. Niesen, at the station) , a small town (4200 inhab.), with a well-pre served Benedictine abbey, which was originally founded in 698 and maintained its independence down to 1801. The abbey- church of St. Willibrord is a Romanesque edifice of 1017-37, skilfully re stored since 1861. The walls of the nave are supported alternately by pillars and columns, as in St. Michael's at Hildesheim and other churches of Lower Saxony. The proportions of the interior are very light and elegant though the colouring is sombre. The crypt is interesting . The old Rathhausis still known as the Dingstuhl ( comp. the Scandinavian " Thing’ , i.e. council). Strangers are admitted on application to the Casino Garden , on the Sure, laid out in the taste of the 18th century . — Boat- building is actively carried on in the adjacent Echternacherbrück . Echternach is noted for the singular 'Dancing Procession ', which takes place every Whit- Tuesday and is participated in by 12-15,000persons from the country round . The procession marches from the bridge over the Sure to the old parish church which contains the relics of St. Willibrord (d, 739), and it is said to have been originally undertaken in the 8th cent. to obtain the saint's aid against a kind of St. Vitus's dance that had at tacked the cattle of the neighbourhood. —Picturesque walk on the left bank of the Sure, with view of the town and its pretty environs. Below Echternach the scenery of the Sure valley is graceful rather than grand, with villages nestling among vineyards . —42 M. Rosport; 45 M. Born. Adjacent is the village of Hinkel, with the much - frequented Girster - Klause. —52 M.Wasserbillig (Reinhard's Inn , unpretending), the Bilacus of the Romans , with an old and very narrow bridge ( 15th cent . ), is situated on the Sure, just above its confluence with the Moselle. About 1 M. higher up , on the left bank, is the old provostry of Langsur. Railway to Luxem bourg and Trèves, see p . 242. BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit . 16 > 242 34. From Luxembourg to Trèves. 32M. RAILWAY ( Prussian Government Railway) in 11/3-2 hrs . ( fares 4 m. 30 , 3 m. , 1 m. 90 pf. ) . The railway to Trèves crosses the huge viaduct over the Pulver mühlthal ( 275 yds. long and 100 ft. high) , mentioned at p. 239, and at ( 71)2M .) Oetringen enters the valley of the Sire . At the foot of a wooded hill to the left lies the château of Schrassig, with the ruined Heidenbau. On the right is Schüttringen , with a château . About 41/2 M. to the N. of (121/2 M. ) Roodt lies Burglinster , with a château of the 16th cent. and an old chapel . At Altlinster, 11/4 M. farther on , is a mutilated Celtic monument cut out of the rock , po pularly known as De Man an de Frau op der Lei. The line now runs on the right bank of the Sire. At ( 161/2 M.) Wecker the cul ture of the vine begins . The train crosses the Sire four times, and at (21 M.) Mertert (Petry) enters the valley of the Moselle. Beyond ( 221/2 M.) Wasserbillig ( p. 241) , at the junction of the Sure and Moselle , the train enters Prussia . 241/2 M. Igel, where the * Co lumn of Igel, one of the finest Roman monuments on this side of the Alps, 75 ft. high , is visible from the train. We cross the Moselle to (30 M. ) Karthaus, junction for the lines to Thionville (Ger. Diedenhofen ) and to Saarbrücken . 32 M. Trèves ( Hôtel de Trèves; Maison Rouge ; Luxemburger Hof; Stadt Venedig ; Restaurant zum Stern ), charmingly situated on the Moselle , and interesting on account of its Roman and other an tiquities, see Baedeker's Rhine. HOLLAND. (Preliminary Information , see p . xxi.) 9 35. From Flushing to Breda . 61 M. Railway in 13/4-3 hrs . ( fares 5 , 4, 21/2 f1 . ) . The FLUSHING Route, opened in 1875, has become one of the most popular ways of reaching the Continent from England . Railway from Lon don (Victoria, Holborn Viaduct, or Ludgate Hill Station ) to Queenborough in 13/4 hr.; steamer thence to Flushing in 8-9 hours . The steamers are large and comfortable. Through-tickets are issued on this route to all the large towns in Holland , Belgium , Germany, etc. Return - tickets are available for 30 days. Flushing. Hotels. Hôtel Albion, at the station , R. , L. , & A 2 11 .,. B. 60 C., déj. 11/4 , D. 2, peng . for a stay of some time 5 fl.; HÔTEL RESTAUR . HET GOUDEN LAM , at the station , well spoken of ; HÔTEL DU COMMERCE , in the town, R., L., A., & B. 2. omn. 1/2 fl.; Hòtel Goes, R., L., & A. 11/2 fl ., B. 60 с., D. 1 fl. 60, omn. 60 с. — GRAND HÔTEL DES Bains, about 1 M. from the town , a summer- resort for sea- bathing. Flushing, Dutch Vlissingen , a seaport with 11,000 inhab . , once strongly fortified, is situated on the S. coast of the island of Wal cheren, at the mouth of the Schelde, which is here nearly 3 M. broad . The quays and docks , near the railway-station , were much extended in 1867-72; a small steamer, the ' Pennybootje' , plies between the town and the harbour-station , from which only express trains start . A British vice- consul and a United States consular agent reside at Flushing. After the Gueux had taken Briel, Flushing was the first Dutch town which raised the standard of liberty ( in 1572). Admiral de Ruyter , the greatest naval hero of the Dutch , was born here in 1607 (d . 1676 ). He was the son of a rope -maker, but his mother, whosename he assumed, was of noble origin. His greatest exploit was the ascent of the Thames with his fleet in 1667, when he de molished fortifications and vessels of war, and threw London into the utmost consternation . A few weeks afterwards, however, peace was declared at Breda, and the achievements of the Admiral were thus terminated . A monument was erected to his memory in 1841 near the harbour. Monuments to the poet Jacob Bellamy (1757 86), a native of Flushing, and to the Dutch poetesses El. Wolff Becker and Agnes Deken (d. 1804) , have also been erected here. The Church of St. James dates from the 15th century . The Hôtel de Ville contains a collection of local antiquities . A good view of the harbour and the sea is obtained from the embankment in the 16 * 244 Route 35 . MIDDELBURG. From Flushing Noordzee-Boulevard . Flushing is a favourite sea-bathing resort, and attracts visitors even from Germany. Pretty view of the dunes from behindthe Hôtel des Bains ( see above ). In 1559 Philip II . embarked at Flushing, never again to return to the Netherlands . He is said to have been accompanied thus far by Prince William of Orange, and to have reproached him with having caused the failure of his plans. The prince pleaded that he had acted in accordance with the wishes of the States, to which the disappointed monarch vehemently replied : ' No los Estados, ma vos, vos !' Flushing was also a place of some importance during the Napoleonic wars . It was bombarded and taken by the English fleet under Lord Chatham in 1809 , on which occasion upwards of a hundred houses, the handsome town hall, and two churches, were destroyed . This was the sole and useless result of the English expedition to the island of Walcheren , undertaken by one of the finest British fleets ever equipped, the object of which was the capture of Antwerp. From Flushing a steamer plies several times daily to Terneuzen (p. 10) , in 1/4 br. Steam Tramway to Middelburg , see p . 245 . Opposite Flushing (steamer 5 times a day), on the left bank of the Schelde, lies the village of Breskens ( Hôtel du Commerce ), connected by steam-tramway with Sluis ( p . 9) and Maldeghem on the Bruges- Ghent line (p . 10) . 4 M. Middelburg ( * Hôtel Nieuwe Doelen ; Hôtel de Abdy, Hôtel de Flandre , in both, R. , L., A., & F. 134-21/2, déj. 1, D. 13/4, omn . 1/2 fl. ; carr. to Domburg 6, Flushing 3, Westcapelle 9 fl. ), the capital of the Province of Zeeland, with 16,100 inhab ., was the birthplace of Zach . Janssen and Hans Lippershey, the inventors of the telescope (about 1610) . The town is connected with Flushing and Veere by means of a canal, on which a steamer plies . The large Prins Hendriks Dok was opened in 1876. The oldest and most central parts of the town are the streets known as the ' Korte' and the ‘ Lange Burgt' . The rustic population of the neighbour hood is best seen on market-day ( Thurs.) or during the fair ( Sept.) . In the market-place rises the handsome late-Gothic Town Hall, erected in the 16th cent. by one of the Keldermans , an artist family of Malines ; the tower , which is 180 ft. high , dates from 1507-13. The florid façade ( 1512-13) is adorned with 25 statues of counts and countesses of Zeeland and Holland. Interior. The old " VIERSCHAAR ', or court-room , on the first floor, is lined with fine panelling of the 16th century. The MUNICIPAL MUSEUM ( "Oudheidskamer ') contains portraits of Jan and Cornelis Evertsen, two Dutch naval heroes , who fell fighting against the English in 1666, and of other members of the same family; also tankards and banners of the old guilds, carvings, documents, pictures, etc. The wooden Renaissance seats of the magistrates are also preserved here; and among the documents is a charter granted to Middelburg in 1253, by the German king William of Holland, the oldest existing deed in the Dutch language. The Gothic Meat Market, under the town- hall , contains large paintings of oxen adorned with garlands. The Zeeuwsch Genootschap der Wetenschappen (adm. daily except Sat. 10-1 and 3 till dusk ; Sun. after 12 noon ) possesses an in teresting collection of Roman and other antiquities ; a portrait of De Ruyter by Ferd . Bol , and various reminiscences of the great to Breda . GOES. 35. Route . 245 admiral; the earliest telescopes , made by Zach. Janssen and Hans Lippershey (see p. 244) ; Zeeland coins ; maps, plans, and drawings relating to Zeeland ( “Zeelandia illustrata” ) ; the finely -carved pan elling and furniture of a room in an ancient Zeeland house ; and a complete collection of the fauna and flora of Zeeland . The Abdy (abbey ; adm . daily 10-12 and 2-5 ), built in the 12th , 14th, and 15th cent. , and restored after a conflagration in 1492, was in 1505 the scene of a brilliant meeting of the knights of the Golden Fleece, and in 1559 was made the seat of a bishop by Pope Pius IV. The interior is now occupied by the Provincial Council. The large hall contains some fine tapestry representing the battles between the maritime provinces and the Spaniards, executed by François Spierinck at Delft and by Jan de Maecht at Middelburg at the end of the 16th century . The Nieuwe Kerk, once the abbey church, contains the monuments of Jan and Cornelis Evertsen ( see p. 244), that of William of Holland (d . 1256 ), who was elected German emperor in 1250, and that of his brother Floris (d . 1258 ; erected in 1820 ) ; the tower is 280 ft . high . The town possesses a few picturesque old houses, such as ' De Steenrots', of 1590, and De Gouden Zon ', of 1635 ; and in the Langedelft is a restored timber house of the 16th century. Middelburg is also connected with Flushing by a STEAM TRAMWAY, which runs every 11/2-2 hrs . , in 1/2 hr. (fares 25, 20 c . ) , passing the village of Souburg, where Charles V. abdicated in 1556. A statue has been er ected here to Philip van Marnix (d . 1598 ; p. 92), the famous author and statesman, who was lord of the manor. From Middelburg an omnibus (1 .; one- horse carr . 5 , two - horse 6 1.) runs twice daily in 11/2 hr. to ( 101/2M.) Domburg ( Bad-Hôtel, pens . 8-10 fl.; Schuttershof, pens. 8-9 11.; Villa Marina, pens. 71/2-91/2 1.), a small bathing -place, frequented by Germans, Dutchmen, and Belgians . Pleasant walks in the neighbourhood . About 5 M. from Domburg lies West capelle, with extensive dykes (p. 9) and a lighthouse . On the N. coast of the island of Walcheren , 31/2 M. from Middelburg, lies the ancient and decayed town of Veere ( Hótel Roland) , with a fine Gothic church ( partly destroyed), a Gothic baptistery, and numerous quaint old houses. On the facade of the interesting town- hall are statuettes of lords of Veere and their wives ; in the interior are some valuable an tiquities, including the enamelled and chased 'Goblet of Maximilian (16th cent . ) . A drive to Veere, Domburg, and Westcapelle makes a pleasant excursion for one day from Middelburg. 61/2 M. Arnemuiden ; the ancient harbour is now under tillage . The train crosses Het Sloe, an arm of the Schelde, by an embank ment connecting the islands of Zuid - Beveland and Walcheren . 121/2 M. ' S Heer - Arendskerke. The line now traverses a fertile district, where the peasants wear an interesting national costume. Near Goes is the Wilhelmina Polder, upwards of 4000 acres in extent. 151/2 M. Goes ( Hôtel Zoutkeet), or ter Goes, the capital (6500 inhab.) of the island of Zuid Beveland, with valuable archives, and an ancient château of Countess Jacqueline of Bavaria , called the Oosteinde, now an inn . The train commands a view of the lofty Gothic Church , consecrated in 1422 , with a tower over the centre of the transept. The Court Room in the Hôtel de Ville is > 246 Route 36. ROTTERDAM. fitted up in the Louis XV. style, and contains paintings in grisaille by J. Geeraerts . 19 M. Biezelinge ; 21 M. Vlake, near which is Kapelle, with an interesting church ; 221/2 M. Kruiningen, where the Zuid Beveland Canal is crossed ; 27 M. Krabbendyke ; 284/2 M. Rilland Bath. To the right rises Fort Bath ( p. 174 ). The train now quits the province of Zeeland ( p. 173) , and crosses the Kreekerak ( p . 174 ). an arm of the Schelde now filled up. 341/2 M. Woensdrecht. 381/2 M. Bergen op Zoom (Hof van Holland ; Prins van Luyk ), the capital (10,300 inhab . ) of a province which came into possession of the Elector Palatine by marriage in 1722 , but reverted to Holland in 1801. The strong fortifications, constructed by Coehorn (d. 1704), the famous Dutch general of engineers, were bombarded and half destroyed by the French in 1747, and were dismantled in 1867 . The Stadhuis contains several portraits of Margraves of the province , and a fine chimney-piece of about 1492 (traces of Renaissance in fluence ), formerly preserved in the margraves' palace , which is now used as barracks . The Church was enlarged in the 15th cent. , but never completed ; it fell in 1747 and now possesses two transepts , but no choir. Several Renaissance tombs have been preserved . A steam - tramway plies from Bergen to Tholen (p . 174) in 35 mi nutes ; the church contains several tombs. 42 M. Wouw . 461/2 M. Roosendaal, the junction for the lines to Rotterdam and Antwerp (R. 16). 55 M. Etten-Leur. 61 M. Breda, see p . 375. 36. Rotterdam . From LONDON TO ROTTERDAM viâ Harwich in 13-14 hrs . ( sea -passage 8-9 hrs . ) ; fares 26s., 15s. ; return - tickets, available for two months, 21., 11. 45. Tickets issued atLiverpool Street Station, and at the chief stations of the Great Eastern Railway at the same fares. Passengers may also book from any station on the G.E.R. to Rotterdam at the above fares, on giving 24 hrs . notice to the station -master. Steamer daily in summer, Sundays excepted . Through -tickets to the principal towns of Belgium , Holland, and the Rhineland are also issued by this company. The steamers of the Netherlands Steamboat Čo. ply thrice weekly between London and Rotterdam . ' These vessels run in connection with the Rhine-steamers of the Netherlands Co. , and tickets at very moderate fares may be procured from London to any station on the Rhine as far as Mannheim. FROM HULL TO ROTTERDAM 3-4 times weekly, in 20 hrs. ( fare 20s.). – FROM LEITA TO ROTTERDAM , twice weekly (fare 21.5s.). Steamboats also ply from Grimsby, Newcastlé, Liverpool, Dublin, Belfast, etc., to Rotterdam . Railway Stations at Rotterdam . 1. The combined station outside the Delftsche Poort (Centraal- station, Pl . B , 1) of the Staatsspoorweg and the Hollandsch Spoorweg, for the Hague, Leyden, Haarlem , and Amsterdam to the N., and Dordrecht, Venlo, and Antwerp to the ' s. , with another stopping-place, used by most travellers, at the Exchange (Station Beurs, Pl. E , 3 ), near the centre of the town. — 2. Rhyn Spoorweg Station ( Pl . G, 3), for Gouda, Utrecht (Amsterdam) , Arnhem, and Germany. Hotels. HÔTEL DE MAAS, on thé Boompjes on the Maas, with restau rant, R., L., & A. from 21/2, B. 3/4, D. 24/2 fl.; VICTORIA HÔTEL (Pl. b ;

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Steamboats. ROTTERDAM. 36. Route. 247 . D , 5 ), in the Willemsplein, with a view of the harbour, R., L., & A. 11/2-3 , B. 3/4, D. 21/2 fl .; HÔTEL WEIMAR (Pl. i ; F , 3), Spaansche Kadé, near the Maas , with view , R. 11 /2-3 fl., L. 20, A. 25 , B. 60 C. , D. 2 1., well spoken of ; HÔTEL LEYGRAAF (Pl. k ; C , 5 ), Westplein, near the park, R., L. , & A. 1-3 fl ., B.60 с. , D. 13/4 ff ., well spoken of ; GRAND HÔTEL Coomans, Hoofdsteg 12 (Pl . E, 2 ), with a café-restaurant, R., L., & A. 13/4-212 , D. 11/2 fl ., well spoken of ; HÔTEL DE FRANCE (Pl. e ; É, 2) , Hoogstraat 201 , R., L. , A. , & B. 2-5, déj. 1, D. 13/4 fl.; HÔTEL ST. LUCAS (Pl . f; D, 2 ), Hoogstraat 327, R., L., & A , 14/4-21/4, B.' 3/4, déj. 11/2, D. 2 11 .; HÔTEL DES Pays -Bas, in the Korte Hoogstraat ( Pl . D , 2), R. & L. from 11/2 , B. 1/2, D. 13/4 fl ., well spoken of; ZUID-HOLLANDSCh HÔTEL, Korte Hoogstraat 27, with a frequented café -restaurant ; GR. HÔTEL DU PASSAGE (Pl.c ; D , 2), Korte Hoogstraat, with a café - restaurant. The hotels of Rotterdam are below the standard of those of most towns of the same size . Cafés and Restaurants. * Stroomberg (Pl . E , 2) , Westnieuwland 26, good cuisine; ZuidHollandsch Koffiehuis , Korte Hoogstraat ( Pl. D , 2, 3) ; Deinum ( Pl . c , 2 ), Coolsingel 24 ; Grand Café Coomans, Hoofdsteg 12 ; Café du Passage, with restaurant, in the Arcade ( see above) ; Poolsche Koffie huis ( Pl. E , 3 ), Zuidblaak 2 ; Café- Restaurant Fritschy, Geldersche Kade 30 (Pl. E, 3); Boneski (Pl . D , 1 ) , Hofplein 14. — RestaurantFritschy, Maas- Kade, opposite the Willems- Brug (p . 255 ). Beer at the * Löwenbräu , Hoog straat 353 . Wine at the Bodega, Kolk -Kade. Cabs. For 1-2 pers. 60 c . per drive, for 3-4 pers. 70 c . ; per hour 11 . 20 c . , each additional hour 1 fl . – From midnight till 6 a.m., per drive 90 c . , per hr. 11/2 fl. – Each trunk 15 c . — For the drive from any of the railway -stations into the town , with luggage, 1 fl . is generally charged. Tramways. The chief station is the Beursplein, between the Ex change and the Railway Station ( Pl. E, 3 ), whence all the chief lines diverge. Line to Kralingen to the E. of Rotterdam , see p. 175 . - STEAM TRAMWAYS ply to Dalfshaven ( 1/2 hr. ) ; to Schiedam ( 1/2 hr. ); and to Over schie ( 20 min .) . Post and Telegraph Office (Pl . 39 ; E, 3 ), near the Exchange. Porters of the Nederlandsche Maatschappy tot Allgemeene Dienstver richting (brown coat andkepi ) , small articles of baggage 10 c . per 1/4 hr. , 15 c . per 1/2 hr.; trunk 20 c.; after 8 p.m. 10 c . extra. Booksellers. Van Hengel, Hoogstraat 385 ; H. A. Kramers & Son, Gel dersche Kade 26 ; Bazendyk, Zeevischmarkt 14 . Art Dealers. Oldenzeel, Leuvehaven 74. Cigars. Weinthal & Co., Hoogstraat 244. This firm has branches in all the larger towns of Holland . Money Changers. Several on the Boompjes, and near the Exchange. The rate of exchange for foreign money is more favourable in a large commercial town like this than at the Hague and elsewhere. Steamboats . Eight times daily to Delft in 11/2 hr.; once daily to Nymegen ( p. 370) in 8-10 hrs ., to Arnhem ( p. 357) in 10 hrs.; three or four times to Briel in 2 hrs.; eight or ten times to Dordrecht ( p. 376 ) in 14/2 hr.; twice to Gouda ( p. 354) in 21/2 hrs .; twice to Bois- le - Duc in 6 hrs .; once to Middelburg in 7 hrs.; to Antwerp in 9-10 hrs . daily (see p . 173). Small steamers ply at frequent intervals between the Park ( p . 254) and the Rhyn -Spoorweg, affording a good view of the traffic on the Maas. Comp. the Officieele Reisgids voor Nederland. Theatre. Schouwburg, Aert van Nes- Straat, at the corner of the Lyn baanslaan (Pl. C, 2 ), German opera twice or thrice a week. – Place des Pays- Bas, Kruis- Kade 39 , a frequented café- concert. British Consul: Henry Turing, Esq . , Boompjes 76. United States Consul : Walter E. Gardner, Esq. English Church ( St. Mary's), at the E. end of the Haringvliet; ser vices at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m .; chaplain, Rev. J. Attridge, M. A., Glashaven 22. Scottish Presbyterian Church , on the Schotsche Dyk ; services at 10.30a.m. and 6.30 p.m ; minister, Rev. J. J. Brown. Principal Attractions: Monument of Erasmus (p. 248 ) ; Boyman's Mu seum ( p. 249); the Boompjes and the bridge over the Maas (p. 254) ; the Zoological Garden ( p . 254 ) ; the Park ( p . 254). 248 Route 36. ROTTERDAM . Exchange. Rotterdam , with 203,500 inhab. ( 1/4th Rom. Cath. , 7000 Jews), the second commercial town in Holland , is situated on the right bank of the Maas, near its confluence with the Rotte , about 14 M. from the North Sea. The city is intersected by numerous canals, such as the Leuvehaven, Oude Haven , Nieuwe Haven , Scheepmakershaven , Wynhaven , Blaak, Haringvliet, etc. , all deep enough for the pas sage of heavily -laden East Indiamen. The average rise of the tide in the Maas is 41/2-8 ft. Communication between the different quarters of the town is maintained by means of drawbridges and swing - bridges (see p. xxvi) . — The average number of vessels which enter the port is 6000 annually. The most important cargoes are coffee, sugar, tobacco , rice, and spices . Near the harbour are large ship -building yards, tobacco factories, sugar refineries, and distil leries, and also the extensive machine-works of Feyenoord (p . 255) . The Beurs Station or City Railway Station (P1 . E, 3) lies in the centre of the town, considerably above the level of the streets, and is reached by flights of steps . The Antwerp and Amsterdam lines are connected with each other by a lofty iron viaduct, 1 M. long, carried across the town. The viaduct, a triumph of engineering skill , has a double line of rails , and is supported by cast-iron piles , between every two or three of which stands one of solid masonry. The average span of the arches is 50 ft. Opposite the railway-station is the Exchange (Pl. 3 ; E, 3) , designed by Van der Werff and built of sandstone in 1722, enclos ing a spacious court, flanked by colonnades , and covered with glass. The exterior is of very simple construction . Business -hour 1 p.m. The tower of the Exchange contains a fine set of chimes . To the W. of the Exchange is the large Post and Telegraph Office (Pl . 39 ; E, 3) . Farther on , in the direction of Boymans' Museum (p. 249 ), at the W. extremity of the busy Noord-BLAAK, rises the Fish Market (Pl. D, 3), built in 1882 and adorned with bronze reliefs after engravings by Artus Quellinus . - At No. 74 in the Leuvehaven, which diverges to the S. farther on , is Oldenzeel's art-emporium(p. 247) , with a permanent Art-Exhibition (adm. 25 c. ), in an old patrician house, beautifully adorned in the rococo style . The GROOTE MARKT (P1 , D, E, 2), the greater part of which is constructed on vaulting over a canal, is embellished with a bronze statue of the illustrious Erasmus of Rotterdam (Pl. 45), properly Gerrit Gerritsz, who was born at Rotterdam in 1467, and died at Bâle in 1536. The monument was erected in 1622, and bears long Dutch and Latin inscriptions added in 1677. It is attributed to Hendrik de Keyser. To the N. of the market is the HOOGSTRAAT, or high street, one of the busiest streets in Rotterdam , situated on an embankment which was originally built to protect the town from inundations. The Wyde Kerkstraat, which leads hence to the church of St. Law rence, contains the house in which Erasmus was born ( No. 3) , St. Lawrence, ROTTERDAM. 36. Route. 249 adorned with a small statue , and bearing the inscription : ' Haec est parva domus, magnus qua natus Erasmus'. The Church of St. Lawrence (Groote Kerk , Pl. 12 ; D, 2 ), a Gothic brick edifice , consecrated in 1477, with a choir of 1487, recently restored , will not bear comparison with the magnificent Gothic edifices of Belgium and Germany. INTERIOR, (The sacristan , who is to be found on the S. side of the church , receives 25 c . from each visitor ; for the ascent of the tower 50 c. additional for one pers . , or 75 c . for twopersons.) — Like mostDutch churches, St. Lawrence is disfigured internally by the wooden stalls and pews. The chief objects of int est are the marble monuments of vice admiral Witte Corneliszoon de Witt ( d. 1658 ), vice - admiral Kortenaer ( d . 1665 ), by Rombout Verhulst ( 1669) , contre-admiral Van Brakel ( d . 1690) , and other Dutch naval heroes , bearing long Latin or old Dutch inscrip tions . The armorial bearings in this , as in almost all the other churches in Holland, were destroyed by the French republicans. The brazen screen which separates the choir from the nave dates from 1711-15. Organ recital every alternate Frid . at 2.30 p.m. (free ); at other times the organist may be engaged to play for an hour, and to show the internal mechanism , for a fee of10 f. The Tower, 210 ft. in height (326 steps), consisting of three broad and tapering stories , rises from the facade of the church. It formerly termi nated in a wooden spire , which was removed in 1645, and replaced by a flat roof ; and in 1651-55 it was disfigured by the construction of a massive support, extending across the entire façade. The view from the summit embraces the whole town with its canals and lofty railway-viaduct, the river, the canals, and other expanses of water in the surrounding country, country-houses , windmills, perfectly straight avenues, and perfectly flat green pastures and fields. The towers of Briel , Schiedam, Delft, the Hague, Leyden , Gouda, and Dordrecht are all visible in clear weather. A little to the E. , in the Kaasmarkt, is the Stadhuis, or town hall (Pl . 40 ; E, 2) , a large modern building with an Ionic portico ; its back looks towards the Hoogstraat. In the neighbouring NIEUWE MARKT (Pl . E, 2) a handsome Fountain adorned with sculp tures, commemorating the tercentenary of the establishment of Dutch independence (1572 ; see p. xxxi) in 1872, was erected in 1874. To the W. the Hoogstraat ends in the KORTE HOOGSTRAAT (Pl . D, 2) , which contains several popular cafés ( p . 247) and the Passage, a tasteful arcade in the Renaissance style, built in 1878 79 from the plans of J. C. van Wyk. The other end of the Pas sage is near the Hogendorp's Plein (p . 254) .

• Boymans' Museum ( P1. 29 ; D, 3 ), a collection of pictures, chiefly by Dutch masters , which became the property of the town in 1847,

although inferior to the galleries of the Hague and Amsterdam, is well worthy of a visit . The original repository , the ' Schielandhuis' built by Jacob Lois in 1663, was burned down in 1864, and up wards of 300 pictures , besides numerous drawings and engravings, were destroyed ; while the 163 which were saved were all more or less injured. The building was re - erected in 1864-67 , and the collection has since been extended by purchase and gift to 350 pic tures . Admission 5 c . on Sundays, 11-4, and Wednesdays, 10-4 o'clock; 25 c. on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays , 10-4 o'clock, at other hours and on Mon , 50 c. Catalogue in Dutch 7 250 Route 36. ROTTERDAM . Boymans' Museum . 50, in French 75 cents. The names of the painters are affixed to the frames of the pictures. GROUND FLOOR. On the left are three rooms containing Draw ings , of which the Museum possesses upwards of two thousand . A few of the finest (e.g. Rubens , Crucifixion ) are exhibited under glass on the walls ; the others are shown on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays , from 10 to 4 o'clock , for a fee of 25 cents. In the room to the right of the vestibule : 250. Pieneman, King William III. ; 29. Bisschop, Prince Henry of the Netherlands ; P. Joselin de Jong, Rochussen the painter ; portraits of several burgo masters of Rotterdam . — The ground floor also contains the Archives of the city ( entrance in Boymansstraat) ; a collection of books, en gravings, and drawings,relating to Rotterdam and its history; and the City Library ( 50,000 vols . ). For admission apply to the li brarian , 11-3 o'clock. UPPBR FLOOR. The hall at the top of the staircase contains portraits by Netscher ( 223 ), Simon de Vos (356-358) , Barth. van der Helst (112, 113), Mich. Mierevelt (191 ), etc. , two landscapes by Adam Pynacker ( 261, 262), and Landscape with cattle , by Jacob van Ruysdael (275). On the landing : 71. Dirk van Deelen , Castle-yard. Room A. No. 216. Jan Mytens, Portrait ofGrand Pensionary Cats and his cousin Cornelia Baars; 380. Ad. Willaerts, Mouth of the Maas at Briel (1633) ; 45, 46. P. Brueghel the Elder, Village scenes ; 190. Mich . Mierevelt ( p. 257) , Portrait of Oldenbarneveld ; 197. N. Molenaer, Bleaching - field ; 96. H. Goltzius, Juno receiv ing from Mercury the eyes of Argus ; 73. J. C. Drooch Sloot, Peas ants dancing ; 30. G. C. Bleeker, Saul on the road to Damascus ; 365. A. de Vries, Burgomaster Vroesen ; 179. J. Martsen the Younger, Cavalry skirmish ; 257. J. Pool, Portrait of the artist's wife, Rachel Ruysch the artist; 308. H. Saftleven, Peasant-interior; 305. Pieter van Slingeland , Portrait of Joh. van Crombrugge (1677) ; 196. Jan M. Molenaer, Rustic merry- making ( 1642) ; 195. J. M. Mo lenaer, Merry company ; 337. A. van de Venné, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange ( 1635) ; 93. N. van Gelder, Dead poultry ; No number, C. Saftleven, Satirical allegory of the legal profession ; 254. Egbert van der Poel, Conflagration by night. Above, 83-86. C. W. Eversdyck (of Goes , beginning of 17th cent. ) , Corporation pictures, of little interest, from the town of Goes . Room B. Above the door: 409. Unknown Master, Fragment of the Seven Works of Mercy (1580) . *399. Unknown Master of the 16th cent. , Portrait ; 301. J. van Schooreel, Portrait; 74. Alb. Dü rer (?) , Portrait of Erasmus, freely retouched ; 396. Unknown Artist, Portrait of Erasmus. 115. Barth. van der Helst , Portrait (1669 ; largely retouched) ; 56. Phil. de Champaigne, Portraits of two artists ( 1654); W. C. Heda, Still - life; *78. Gerbrand van den Eeckhout, Ruth and Boaz ; Jordaens, 135. Adoration of the Kings, 136, Bearing Boymans' Museum . ROTTERDAM. 36. Route. 251 с D E B F А of the Cross ; 20. N. Berchem, Cave ; 389. Thomas Wyck, Interior, with a woman and children ( the light and shade are somewhat exag gerated but otherwise the work is ably executed ); Pieter Claesz, Still life ; 323. A. van den Tempel, Por traits (1671 ) ; * 182. Jan van der Meer the Elder of Haarlem, View of Principal Modern the village of Noordwyk ; 202. Paul Saloon. Pictures. Moreelse , Vertumnus and Pomona. — 124. G. Honthorst, Soldier light ing his pipe ; No number , Arent Arents , Rhenish landscape ; 360. S. Francken, Horsemen plundering a village ; 75. A. van Dyck ( ?), Group of saints, a sketch ; 158. Pieter Last man ( Rembrandt's teacher) , Flight into Egypt ( 1608), probably painted in Italy, where the artist attached himself to Elshaimer ; 424. Al bano (more probably Flemish School), Children dancing; 76. A. van Dyck ( ?), Sketch for the large portrait-group of Charles I. and his family at Windsor, in a remarkably easy and spirited style ; above , 306. F. Snyders, Boar - hunt; 359. F. Francken , Dancers ; 332. Esaias van de Velde, Skirmish by night ; 353. J. J. van Vliet (Rembrandt ?), Old man ; 82. Allart van Everdingen , Cascade ; 252. D. van der Plaes, Admiral Tromp ; No number, M. J. van Mierevelt, Family group ; 105. J. van der Hagen , Landscape with the Good Samaritan ; 132, 133. F. de Hulst, Landscapes ; No number, H. G. Pot, Love scene ; 70. D. van Deelen, Musical party ; 57. J. de Cool , Regent-piece from Rotterdam ; 317. A. Stork , Dutch harbour in winter ; 345. Hend. Verschuringh , Blacksmith ; 388. Jan Wouver man , Landscape ; 387. Ph . Wouverman , Cavalier ; 116. W. de Heusch, Italian landscape ; *35. F. Bol , Portrait ; 324. Tilborgh, Flemish family -group . *333. Esaias van de Velde, Man on horse back (13 in . in height ). This little figure, with its back turned to us, seated squarely and easily on a dun horse with flowing mane and tail , has all the effect of life -size, and looks almost like an equestrian statue'. Vosmaer . Room C. On the right wall are a number of works by Jacob Gerrits. Cuyp and his son Albert. By the former, 60. Portrait, 58. Group of children , 59. Portrait ; by the latter, 64. (?) Dead hare,

• 67. River-scene by evening-light, 68. Eating mussels, *61. ( ?) Two grey horses , 65. (?) Poultry. 63. A. Coosemans, Fruit ; 163. Jan Livens, St. Peter; 1. W. van Aelst , Flowers.
• 268. Rembrandt , ' De Eendracht van ' t land' (union of the country ), an allegorical painting, not very intelligible in its details,

and probably executed in 1648 , the year of the Peace of West phalia, which Dutch poets and painters were never tired of cele brating . Though merely a study in brown monochrome, probably 7 252 Route 36. ROTTERDAM. Boymans' Museum . meant as a sketch for a larger work , and unfinished , it is remark ably effective. The foreground and part of the middle distance represent the interior of a fortress . In the centre is a lion couchant, bound by two chains , one of which is attached to a wall on the right, bearing the arms of Amsterdam with the words "Soli Deo Gloria', while the other is fastened to the seat of Justice , who is represented in an attitude of supplication on the left . The lion raises its head defiantly and places his paws on a bundle of arrows , the emblem of the United Provinces, the shields of which surround him. The foreground is occupied by knights arming themselves to battle for the republic, while the guns on the ramparts are seen firing on the enemy, who retreats in wild confusion . Above , *283. Saenredam , Church of the Virgin at Utrecht . Farther on, 95. J. van Goyen, Landscape; * 149. Salomon Koninck , Gold -weigher; 77. G. van den Eeckhout, Portrait of a child .

• 277. Jacob van Ruysdael, Cornfield in sunshine, a very beautiful landscape, evidently influenced by Rembrandt ; 246. A. van Ostade,

Old man in his study ; 221. Aart van der Neer, Moonlight-scene; 258. W. de Poorter, Transitoriness (an allegory); * 21. Job Berck Heyde, Old Exchange at Amsterdam ; 368. J. B. Weenix , The sleeping Tobias ; 384. Em . de Witte, Fishwife at Amsterdam ; * 278 . Jacob van Ruysdael, Sandy road under trees ; 185. Gabriel Metsu, Pastor in his study ; 366. A. de Vries, Portrait ; 279. Jacob van Ruysdael, Old Fishmarket at Amsterdam , the figures by Jan van Battum ; 183. Jan van der Meer, Landscape with sheep ; 139 . Keirinckx , Landscape ; 175. C. de Man , Party of peasants ; No number, Palamedesz , Family group. 352. Hendrik van Vliet, Interior of a church ; 170. Nic. Maes, Gentleman, lady, and child ; 44. R.Brakenburg, Peasant wedding ; 169. D. Maes, Camp ; 104. J. Hackaert, Landscape. Room D. (principal room). To the right : 304. D. Seghers, Flowers ; * 109 . Jan Davidsz de Heem , Fruit ; *117. Hobbema, Landscape; 28. A. van Beyeren, Fish ; 193. Mignon, Flowers; 171 , 172. N. Maes, Portraits of Maerten Nieupoort and his wife ; *36. F. Bol, Portrait of a boy ; *150. Phil. de Koninck, Landscape ; 280 . Rachael Ruysch, Flowers ; No number, A. van Ostade, Old Man laughing; 342. L. Verschuier, The Maas at Rotterdam.

• 334. A. van de Velde, The farrier, one of his earliest works (1658) ; No number, P. Moreelse, Portrait; 26. Berghen, Landscape ; 372. A. van der Werff, Entombment;338. Adr.Verboom , Even ing- scene, with sportsmen resting ; 107. A. Hanneman , Grand Pen sionary Jan de Witt ; *88. Karel Fabritius, Portrait, formerly at tributed to Rembrandt, of whom it would not be unworthy; 335 .

A. van de Velde , Pasture ( painted in the same year as No. 334 ); 231. Jacob Ochtervelt, Gentleman offering an oyster to a young lady; 285, 286. D. van Santvoort, Shepherd and shepherdess ; 248. A. Palamedesz, Aristocratic company; 276. Sal. van Ruysdael, River scene near Dordrecht,with barges and cattle, the atmosphere wonder fully transparent ; 206. Fred . de Moucheron , Mountain- scene ; 54 , Boymans' Museum . ROTTERDAM. 36. Route . 253 55. Corn . Janszoon van Keulen , Portraits of a man and woman ; 121. Melchior d'Hondecoeter, Dead poultry. 22. Gerrit Berck - Heyde, View of Cologne , with St. Cunibert's in the foreground , and the Bayenthurm behind , the cathedral not being included ; 41. Jan Both, Italian scene ; 386. Phil. Wouver man , Scene of plundering, in the background a burning village ; 247. I. ein Ostade, Travellers in front of an inn ; *114. B. van der Helst, Lady and gentleman in a park ( landscape by A. van Ever dingen ). — *118. Hobbema, Landscape. Small, but charming : by the side of a pond in which two men are fishing, stands a cottage shaded by lofty trees ; to the left a road on which two travellers are approaching; foreground in shade, with the surface of the water most effectively handled . 312. Jan Steen , Feast of St. Nicholas , a merry family -group of seven persons ; 336. W. van de Velde the Younger, Port of Texel ; 140. Jan van Kessel, Environs of Amsterdam ; 199. P. Molyn the Elder, Landscape ; 111. Barth . van der Helst, Portrait of a pastor ( 1638 ); 151. J. Koning ,Herdboy with cattle. — *106. Frans Hals, Portrait of a man ; 165. Jan Lingelbach , Italian landscape . 414. F. Hals the Younger, Quack. 313. Jan Steen, Stone-opera tion : a stone being cut out of the head of a boorish peasant by a doctor, to the great amusement of the bystanders (ʻle malade ima ginaire') ; 141. J. van Kessel, View of Amsterdam . Above, 6. Bak huysen , Large sea-piece ; 15. Jan Beerstraten, Old town-hall of Amsterdam, with figuresby J.Lingelbach ; No number, Th. de Keyser, Portrait; *369. Weenix, ' Dead swan ; 377. P. van der Werff, Portrait of himself ; 263. Pynacker, Lake in a rocky landscape ; 81. A. van Everdingen, Landscape with waterfall ; 222. Eglon van der Neer, Lady and gentleman ; 392. Zeeman , Calm sea ; *90. Govert Flinck, Woman sitting under a tree giving her hand to a man standing in front of her, one of the master's finest works, belonging to the period when he was a close adherent of Rembrandt (1646). Rooms E. and F. contain the MODERN PICTURES. Room E.: 327 . Cornelis Troost, 'Chambre d'accouchée' in Holland ; 428. Greuze (?), Mother and child, a sketch ; 382. J. de Wit , Allegory ; 230. G. van Nymegen , Landscape; 155 , 156 , 157. Langendyk , Camp, Cavalry combat, Death of the General ; 427. Desgoffes, Still-life ; 147. Koek kock, Winter landscape. Room F. : 142. Klinkenberg, The Vyver berg at the Hague ; 326. H. A. van Trigt , The last days of Eras mus; 311. Corn. Springer, Town Hall at Naarden ; Ary Scheffer ( p. 377), 288. Count Eberhard of Wurtemberg cutting the table cloth between himself and his son , 289. Count Eberhard by the dead body of his son who had fallen while fighting bravely in battle ( after Uhland) ; 349. Verveer, The young smoker ; No number, Wally Moes, Two village boys ; 351. Verveer, Katwyk aan Zee ; number, Artz, On the shore ; 271. Roelofs, Landscape ; No number, Rochussen , Fight ; No number, Therese Schwarze, Orphans; 40. Bosboom, Interior of the Groote Kerk in Alkmaar; 184. Mesdag, - No 254 Route 36. ROTTERDAM. Boompjes. ? Sea-piece ; * 181.Mauve, Pasturage; No number, *Mesdag, Stormy sea ; 272. Roosenboom , Rose - bush . The HOGENDORP's PLBIN ( Pl. C, D, 3 ), at the back ofthe Mu seum, is adorned with the statue of Gysbert Karel van Hogendorp (Pl. 46 ; 1762-1834), the promoter of free trade ' , and the ' foun der of the Dutch constitution ', by Geefs (comp. p. 275). — In the COOLSINGBL are the handsome Hospital ( Pl. C, 2) and the Theatre (Pl . 43 ; C, 2 ). In the Coolvest, opposite the hospital, is the new Gymnasium Erasmianum ( Pl. 7 ; D; 2) , with a handsome group of sculpture in the pediment. The English Church (Pl. 11 ; G, 2 ), at the E. end of the Haring vliet (Pl. F, 2 ), was originally built by the great Duke of Marl borough during his command in the Netherlands , and has been used as a barrack, a hospital, a store -house, and an armoury. Over the entrance , below the English royal arms, are the arms of the Duke of Marlborough . On the N. side of the town, outside the Delft Gate (Pl. C, D, 1), the only one of the old city-gates which is still standing, is situated the Zoological Garden (Diergaarde ; Pl.A, B , 1 ; admission 50 c.), tastefully laid out (restaurant). The beasts of prey are fed in summer at 7 p.m. , and after 1st Sept. at 2.30 p.m. An important new quarter has recently sprung up on the W. side of the town. Along the river in this neighbourhood stretch the Willem's Plein and the Willem's Kade (Pl. D, C, 5, 6 ). At the W. extremity of the latter, in the old building of the Royal Dutch Yacht Club (Pl . 25), is the Ethnographical and Maritime Museum , con taining curiosities from the East Indies, Africa, and Brazil, and a collection of objects connected with navigation from the 17th cent. onwards (open daily , except Thurs. , 10-4 ; adm. 25 C. , Sun, and holidays 10 c. ) . On the other side of the Veerhaven stands the Zeemanshuis (Pl. 50 ; B, The tasteful new building of the Yacht Club is on the other side of the Maas. The * Park (Pl . A, B, 6), which extends to the W. along the bank of the Maas, affords a pleasant promenade. It is embellished with groups of trees , grassy expanses, and fish - ponds, while here and there it commands a view of the busy scene on the river. In summer a military band plays here at the Officieren - Societeit on Sun, afternoon and evening and on Wed. evening (strangers ad mitted on introduction, obtainable from the chiefhotel-keepers, etc.) . In the middle of the park rises a marble statue by Strackée of the popular patriotic poet , Hendrik Tollens (d. 1856), erected in 1860. The * Boompjes (Pl. D, E, 4 ), a handsome quay, which de rives its name from the trees planted upon it, extends for up wards of 1 M. along the bank of the Maas, and is far more attrac tive than such localities usually are. Upwards of 100 steamboats start here for the neighbouring Dutch towns , the Rhine, Eng land, France, Russia, and the Mediterranean . Visitors may usually 6 ). ROTTERDAM. 36. Route. 255 > enter and inspect the vessels without objection, provided they do not get in the way of the work in hand. At the upper end of the Boompjes the river is crossed by two Bridges ( Pl. E , F, 4 ): the Railway Bridge , opened for traffic in 1877, which rests on four buttresses , or on nine , if those on the island of Noordereiland , opposite Rotterdam , be included ; and the Willems- Brug for carriages and foot-passengers, opened in 1878, 930 yds. long , and also resting on four buttresses. The Café Fritschy, on the Noordereiland , at the S. end of the last-named bridge, commands a fine view of Rotterdam. The middle of the Noordereiland is occupied by the Burgemeester -Hoffmann Plein (Pl. F, 4, 5), embellished with a monument to Stieltjes (d . 1878 ), the engineer who planned the harbour-works on the left bank, necessitated by the discovery that the new bridges interfered seriously with the shipping on the Maas. The principal feature of the works is the large Konings-Haven (Pl . F, G , 5, 4 ), adjoining which is the wharf of the emigrant ships of the Dutch - American Steamboat Co. (Pl. 34 ; visitors admitted ; fee) . Railway and road are conducted across the harbour on drawbridges , through the open ings of which the largest vessels can pass . Beyond the Koningshaven lies the island of Feyenoord , on the S.W. side of which are two other harbours. Passing the warehouses of the Dutch - American Steamboat Co. we reach the gate and draw bridge of the Binnen - Haven (Pl . F, G, 5, 6 ), which is about 1000 yds . long. Farther on is another drawbridge , affording a view of the Spoorweg - Haven (Pl . F, 6), which is 1300 yds. long and flank ed with rows of warehouses. Both of these harbours are accessible to the largest ships. We may now return to the Boompjes by one of the small steamers which start here every 20-30 min . ( fare 5 c . ). On the E. side of Feyenoord are the extensive machine works and wharf of the Nederlandsche Stoomboot Maatschappy, employing more than 1000 workmen. 37. From Rotterdam to the Hague, Leyden, Haarlem , and Amsterdam . RAILWAY ( 'Hollandsche Spoorweg ’; stations, see p . 246 ) from Rotterdam to (521/2 M. ) Amsterdam in 2-23/4 hrs . (fares 3 fl. 75 , 2 fi. 85 , 1 f . 85 c. ) . Luggage extra. Passengers are cautioned against leaning out at the win dows, as the carriages pass close to the railings of the numerous bridges. Flat pastures , numerous windmills , straight canals , and oc casionally a few plantations and thriving farm-houses are the prin cipal features of the country. On the left, immediately after the station is quitted, lies Delfshaven on the Meuse, with 11,500 in hab. , the birthplace of the naval hero Piet Hein (p. 257), the capturer of the Spanish ( silver fleet in 1628, to whom a statue was erected here in 1870. 3 M. Schiedam ( Hulsinga ), a town on the Schie, with 26,000 256 Route 37. DELFT. From Rotterdam inhab ., is celebrated for its ' Hollands' and ' Geneva' (so called from the Jenever , or juniper -berry with which it is flavoured ), of which there are upwards of 220 distilleries. About 30,000 pigs are an nually fattened on the refuse of the grain used in the process. Tramway to Rotterdam , see p. 247. Omnibus from Schiedam six times daily to the (6 M.) small town of Vlaardingen, theprincipal Dutch depôt of the ' great fishery', as the herring, cod , and haddock fishery is called by the natives. 91/2 M. Delft. Hotels. HÔTEL LUBRECHTS , Groote Markt 9 , in different, R., L. , & A. 2 fl .; HEERENLOGEMENT, near the Hague Gate. Restaurant Herman, de Bolk, opposite the station. Tramway from the Rotterdam Gate (Pl. B, C, 6 ) to the Hague Gate (Pl. A, 1) and viâ Ryswyk to (20 min . ) the Hague (see p. 260) . Steamer to Rotterdam eight times daily in 11/2 hr. (faré 30 c.). Delft, an old - fashioned town of 28,000 inhab . ( 1/3 Rom. Cath . ), with remarkably clean canals bordered with lime -trees, is situated on the Schie, which flows into the Maas at Delfshaven . The towli was almost totally destroyed by fire in 1536, and in 1654 it was seriously damaged by the explosion of a powder -magazine; but it still pos sesses numerous interesting buildings of the 16-17th cent., espe cially at the Wynhaven, and in the Koornmarkt and Voorstraat. Delft was the birthplace of Hugo de Groot ( Grotius ; 1583-1645) , the statesman and scholar (tomb and monument, see p . 257) . In the 17th and 18th cent. the pottery and porcelain of Delft were celebrated throughout Europe, but this industry afterwards fell into decay and was not revived till quite lately . Visitors are admitted to the manufactory of Messrs. Joost Thooft & Labouchère, on Sat. , 2-5 p.m., on previous written application. On leaving the railway-station (Pl. A, 5) we observe the tower of the Nieuwe Kerk. We turn to the left, cross the Singel- Gracht , and then walk along the canal till . we reach an intersecting canal , the Oude Delft, which traverses the town from N. to S. On the left bank of the latter is the Gemeenlandshuis van Delfsland (Pl. 1 ), with a Gothic façade of the beginning of the 16th cent. , in sandstone. A melancholy celebrity attaches to the Prinsenhof (Pl . 10), or palace , also on the Oude Delft, as the scene of the death of William of Orange , the Silent , the founder of Dutch independence , who was assassinated here on 10th July, 1584 (see p. 270 ). The pal ace was long used as a barrack,but is now restored and fitted up as a William of Orange Museum ( open daily, 10-5, free). By passing through the door opposite the Oude Kerk, marked 'Gym nasium Publicum ', and crossing the court, we reach the spot where the tragedy took place , on the first floor, to the right by the staircase. It is marked by an inscription . The murderer, a Burgundian named Balthasar Gerhard , who was prompted by a desire to gain the price set upon the hero's head by Alexander Farnese, took up his position in front of the spot thus indicated , and when he discharged his pistol was quite close to his victim , who was descending the staircase with his friends. marks left by the fatal bullet are still pointed out, Opposite the Prinsenhof, on the site of an earlier church , is 7 The A B C D 1. Gemeenlandshuis van Delfslans , 2.Luthersche Kerk 3.Nieuwe Kerk 4. Oude Kerk 5.R.Kath . Kerken 6.Koornbeurs B.4 . 11. Schouwburg . B.4 . 7.Liefdadig Inrichting C.5 . 12. Staduais A.B.2. 8. Polytechnische School B.5 . 13. Synagoge C.4 . 9.Postkantoor. B.5 . 14. Zwemschool B.3. 10.Prinsenhof A.B.3. B.3 . C.3 . B. C.4 . C.5 . B.5 . 1 Naagsche oort Wateringsche Vest Noordende 007 2 uc Verwer markt Paarder dast weryzer SEN VER Praga plein Exertitie DANIELA Barnen VON Doele 3 3 PRE Koepoort School sport H.Geest . Kerkh ramon Tea ZUXRACTUM Langenduk Ateww So Bocer brud NMR . Groote 3 MarktKerkhof Dimine Irgendile UTICULE rest Beesten Kuksteeg bedempte markt Waterslood sehen Poort We B res Qoot Lomar MOOT22

kerze mur Station 5 aan uwe INU 6 Rotterdamsche Poort DELFT 6 Ketelsteeg wal O SO 1 : 12.000 100 200 Neter 300 A B Geograph. Anstalt von D Wagner & Debes, Leipzi

to Amsterdam . DELFT. 37. Route. 257 situated the Gothic Oude Kerk (Pl. 4), erected in the 15th cent., with a somewhat leaning tower, and wooden vaulting of 1574. It contains the monumentof Admiral Maarten Tromp ( d. 1653), the victor in thirty -two naval battles , the last of which , fought against the English , and the occasion of his death , is represented on the monument. After defeating the English fleet under Blake near the 'Dunes', he caused a broom to be hoisted to his masthead , to signify that he had swept the channel clear of his enemies. Piet Hein (d . 1629 ), the admiral of the In dian Company, who in 1628 captured the Spanish ( silver fleet', with its precious freight valued at 12 million florins , also has a monument in this church. A monument with a medallion- figure marks the tomb of the nat uralist Leeuwenhoek ( d. 1723 ). Another interesting monument is that of a daughter of Philip van Marnix ( p. 245 ), erected in 1655, and restored in 1856. The pulpit, dating from the middle of the 16th cent. , resembles that at the Hague (p. 271). The sacristan (15 c . ) resides opposite the N. transept. The choir of the Nieuwe Kerk (P1 . 3 ; C, 4) in the Groote Markt, another Gothic edifice , built in 1412-76 , contains a magnificent * Monument, begun in 1616 by Hendrile de Keyser and finished by his eldest son Pieter, to the memory of William of Orange. Sacri stan , Groote Markt 79 (15 c. ) . The effigy of the prince in marble lies on a black marble sarco phagus , beneath a canopy, supported by four clustered pillars and six isolated columns , all likewise ofmarble . In the niches of the pillars stand four allegorical figures : Liberty is represented with a sceptre , a cap of liberty , andthe motto, " Je maintiendrai piété et justice' ; Justice with her scales, beside which is inscribed William's favourite motto, Saevis tran quillus in undis' ; Prudence, with a twig of thorn in her hand ; Religion, with the Bible in one hand, and a miniature church in the other, whilst her foot rests on a corner- stone emblematical of Christ. At the head of the statue is placed a second statue in bronze, representing the prince in full military accoutrement, while at the feet is a bronze figure of Fame, with outspread wings, 6 ft. in height, resting on the ground on the point of the left foot only. The dog, on which, in mediæval fashion , the feet of the recumbent figure rest, is placed there in memory of the prince's favourite dog, which was the means of saving his life in 1572 when he was attacked at night by two Spanish assassins in his camp at Malines. The inscription , on the canopy, is pointed out by weeping genii. The pillars are surmounted by obelisks. Beneath the same stone the prince's wife and his son Prince Maurice (b . 1567, d . 1625 ) also repose . The church afterwards became the burial- place of all the princes of theHouse of Orange, down to the presentday. Another simple monument marks the tomb of Hugo Grotius ( p . 256, 374) . In the market- place, in front of the church, is a bronze Statue of Hugo Grotius ( p. 256 ), by Strackée, erected in 1886 . The handsome STADHUIS (P1 . 12 ), on the W. side of the market- place, restored by H. de Keyser after a fire in 1618, with a Gothic belfry, contains a few good pictures. Of special interest are the paintings of Michiel Janszoon van Miere velt (Delft, 1567-1641), the first of the great Dutch portrait- painters. A room on the ground - floor contains a large corporation -piece (arquebusiers) by him, depicting 36 persons, with faces full of life and energy, but inar tistically grouped; also a corporation -piece of 31gesticulating figures by J. W. Delph, 1592; and others by Rochus Deld', Jacob Delf ( 1648 ), etc. — In a room on the first floor are portraits of the princes William I., Mau rice, Philip William , and Frederick Henry of Orange , Counts William Lewisand Ernest Casimir of Nassau, Frederick V. of the Palatinate ( p . 333 ), and Hugo Grotius, all by Mierevelt. There is also some tapestry by Maxt milian van der Púcht (about 1640). BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. 17 258 Route 37. WARMOND. Two doors beyond the Synagogue (narrow passage; ring) stands the Town Hospital ( Liefdadig Inrichting ; Pl. 7, C5) . The latter contains four anatomical pictures (comp . p. liii), including one of the earliest paintings of the kind, executed together by the two Mierevelts in 1617 ; the three other pictures are of later date. The Polytechnic School (Pl . 8 ; B , 5 ), on the Oude Delft (p. 256) , is attended by about 300 students. The Oude Delft is terminated towards the N. by the Hague Gate and on the S. by the Rotterdam Gate . Near the latter, to the left, rises the Arsenal ( Pl. B , 5), a large, gloomy building , partly sur rounded by water, and adorned with the arms of the old Dutch Re public. It was originally a warehouse of the E. India Company. The Railway journey from Delft to the Hague occupies 1/4 hr. only. At stat. Ryswyk the celebrated peace between England, France, Holland , Germany, and Spain was concluded in 1697. The palace of the Prince of Orange , where the treaty was signed , no longer exists , but its site is marked by an obelisk erected in 1792. 141/2 M. The Hague, see p. 259. From the Hague to Gouda, see p. 356. 201/2M . Voorschoten ; to the right rises the church - tower of the village, which is connected with Leyden and Voorburg and with Wassenaar by steam - tramways (40, 25 c . ). The train now crosses the narrow arm of the Rhine which retains the name down to its efflux into the North Sea. 24 M. Leyden, see p. 279. FROM LEYDEN TO WOERDEN ( for Utrecht) , 21 M., railway in 1 hr. 10 min. - 6 M. Hazerswoude- Koudekerk ; 91/2 M. Alphen ; 121/2 M. Zwam merdam ; 14 M. Bodegraven (steam -tramway to Gouda, p . 356 ) ; 21 M. Woer den. From Woerden viâ Harmelen to Utrecht, see p. 356. 251/2 M. Warmond, to the left of which rises a large Roman Ca tholic seminary. To the left of (30 M.) Piet-Gyzenbrug is the church of Noordwykerhout. 331/2 M. Veenenburg ; 361/2 M. Vogelenzang. About 11/2 M. to the E. of stat . Vogelenzang, near the village of Bennebroek , is situated Hartenkamp, a country -residence , where Linné (Lin næus) , the celebrated Swedish naturalist, resided in 1736-38 with his weal thy patron George Clifford , who was English ambassador at that time . Linné wrote his 'Hortus Cliffordianus' and his ‘ Systema Naturæ' here. The line traverses for a short distance the E. slopes of the North Sea Dunes . 42 M. Haarlem ( p . 285) is the junction for Amsterdam, and for Alkmaar and the Helder (R. 43) . The Amsterdam line turns towards the E. , running parallel with the canal and the high-road in a perfectly straight course . The Fort aan de Liede is seen on the right , immediately after the train has quitted the station . The line now traverses an extensive plain, formed on the right by the Haarlemmer Polder, and on the left by the newly-reclaimed Polder of the Y (see p . 337) . Down to 1840 the first of these was the Haarlemmer Meer, a lake 18 M. in length, 9 M. in breadth, and about 14 ft. in depth, which was formed in the 15th cent. by the overflow of the Rhine and the THE HAGUE. 38. Route . 259 gradual crumbling away of the banks of the Y, and afterwards increased so considerably as to imperil the towns of Amsterdam , Haarlem , Leyden, and Utrecht. The operations for draining the lake were begun in 1840 , and completed in 1853 , at a cost of 131/2 million florins. The area of this vast ‘ polder' (see p . xxix) is about 72 sq. M. , and the land thus reclaimed realised an average price of 200 fl. per acre , while its present value is estimated at 800 fl. per acre. It is encircled by canals, used for purposes of drainage and irrigation. The population of this district is now about 10,000. The engines with their lofty chimneys , constructed originally for the purpose of pumping out the water of the ‘Meer', and now used in draining it, are worthy of the notice of engineers. At Halfweg , the 'halfway' and only station between Haarlem and Amsterdam , there are strong lock- gates which formerly sepa rated the waters of the Y from the Haarlemmer Meer. The old château of Zwanenburg near the railway, dating from the 17th cent., is now a beetroot- sugar manufactory. About 250 years ago the châ teau lay nearly 1/2 M. from the Haarlemmer Meer , which before it was drained had advanced to the very walls of the building. 521/2 M. Amsterdam , see p . 293. 38. The Hague. Comp. the Plan , p. 276. Railway Stations. 1. Dutch Station ( Pl. D, 8 ), for Rotterdam , Leyden , Haarlem , and Amsterdam ; 2. Rhenish Station (Pl. F , 5, 6) , for Gouda ( Rotterdam , Amsterdam) , Utrecht , and Arnhem . The two stations are joined by a connecting line. Good Buffets at both. Tramways from the sta tions into the town, and cabs , see below ; tramway to Scheveningen, see p.276. Hotels. * HÔTEL DES INDES (Pl. a; E 4), in the Lange Voorhout ; * Hô TEL BELLEVUE (Pl. b ; F, 5) , near the Park and the station of the Rhenish railway ; * VIEUX DOELEN (Pl. d ; E, 4) , Tournooiveld , an old - established house (doel, a common sign for inns in Holland, means ' target' ; doelen, shooting gallery' ) ; " HÔTEL PAULEZ ( Pl. e ; E, 4) , opposite the theatre, good cuisine ; at all these the charges are similar: R. 11 /2-15 fl., L. 30-35 , A.40 50, B. 80 c . , déj. 2-21/2, M. 21/2 fl. - HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE ( Pl. c ; E , 5 ), Lange Houtstraat 61 ; * HÔTEL DU MARÉCHAL DE TURENNE (Pl . f; E , 5 ), Korte Hout straat 24 ; HÔTEL - CAFÉ CENTRAL ( Pl. g ; D , 5 ) , Lange Pooten , with a large café-restaurant; at these , R. 11/2-2, L. & A. '/2 l. , B. 70-75 c ., déj. 1-19 /2, D. 2, pens. 41 /2-5 f1 . - Second class : TWEE STEDEN (Pl . m ; D , 5 ) , in the Buitenhof, well spoken of; HÔTEL DU PASSAGE , in the Arcade (p. 270), at the entrance from the Achteromstraat, R., L., & A. 13/4 , B. 3/4, déj. 1, D. 2, pens. 41/2 fl.; HÔTEL-RESTAURANT MAASSEN (Pl. 1 ; D, 6) , Eerste Wagenstraat 22, R. 11/4-2, L. 30 , A. 40, B. 75 C., D. 13/4, pens. 41/2 fl.; GROOT KEIZERSHOF (Pl. h ; C , D , 4 ) , in the Buitenhof; HÔTEL TOELAST (Pl. i ; C , 5 ) , in the Groenmarkt; HÔTEL-CAFÉ ST.HUBERT, Hoogstraat 5 ( Pl. C , 4, 5 ); * HÔTEL DU COMMERCE ( Pl. n ; D, 5 ) , Spuistraat 61 ; LION D'OR ( Pl. 0 ; D , 5) , Hof straat ; ZEVEN KERKEN VAN ROME (Pl . p ; D, 6) , in the Spui. HÔTEL BEAUSÉ JOUR , see p. 277. Restaurants. * Van der Pyl, Plaats 18 ( Pl. D, 4) , D. from 11/2 fl.; Café Riche and Café Central, déj. and D. from 1fl. , see below ; Maassen , see above ;

• Schreuders, Torenstraat, plain. - Wine. Central Bodega, Continental Bo dega, both in the Lange Pooten, Beer. Linke, Venestraat 20 ( Pl. C, 5) ; Pschorrbrau, Spuistraat 12 ; Zum Franziskaner , spuistraat 47 , also a café,

> 17* 260 Route 38. THE HAGUE Cafés. . 30 c . with garden ; Münchener Kindl , Spuistraat (Pl. D, 5 ) ; Beyersch Bierhuis, Kettingstraat 8 ; Beer Vault, in the Arcade ; Schmidt-Boneski, Spuistraat 47 . Cafés. * Café Riche, in the Arcade (p. 270) ; * Café Central (Pl. g D; , 5 ), Lange Pooten, also a restaurant, high charges ; Zuid -Hollandsch Koffyhuis, Vischmarkt (Pl . C, 5 ) , opposite the Groote Kerk ; Goudenhoofd , Groen markt, at the corner of the Hoogstraat; Café Suisse, on the s . side of the Plein, Confectioners : * Monchen, Lange Houtstraat (Pl. E, 4,5 ), near the Plein ; Sprecher, in the Plein. Warm Baths at the Mauritskade (Pl. 1 ; D, 3 ), with a basin for swim mers, and at Scheveningen. Cabs (at the stations, and in the Tournooiveld, Buitenhof, Plein , Huy gensplein , etc.) . According to the tariff all fares are reckoned by time. For 20 min. 60 c . ; 1/2 hr. 75 C .; per hr. 1 fl. 25 c .; each additional 1/4 hr. Two-horse cabs one-halfmore. Each trunk 10 c . , small articles free . Tolls extra. The drivers are forbidden to demand fees , but may exact their fare in advance. Tramways traverse the town in various directions, starting from the Dutch and Rhenish Stations and from the Plein (comp. the Plan ). —Steam Tramway to Scheveningen , see p . 276 ; also to Delft (in 20 min .), starting from the Huygensplein ( Pl. D , 7 ), and passing Ryswyk (p . 258 ); to Loos duinen (comp. Pl. A , 5) , Naaldwyk, and ' s Gravesande (in 13/4 hr.) ; to Leyden , every 2 hrs., in 14/3 hr. Post and Telegraph Office (Pl. 59 ; C, 5) , at the back of the Groote Kerk, open from 6.15 a . m. to 10 p. m. Theatre (Pl. 68 ; E, 4 ) in the Tournooiveld . French Operas on Mondays , Thursdays , and Saturdays, Dutch plays on Tuesdays and Fridays, in winter only. Performances begin at 7. Art dealers. ENGRAVINGS: Goupil & Co. (Pl. 17 ; D , 4), Plaats 20 ;" W. T. Nollée, Wilhelmina -Galery 4; Couvé (P1.16; D, 5 ), Lange Pooten 41; Wisselingh, Buitenhof48.— PHOTOGRAPHS: M. J. Parson, Vlaats 19 ; A. van Hoogstraten & Zoon, Plaats 11; Visser , Spuistraat 36. - Art-exhibitions are held from time to time in the headquarters of the artists' society ' Pulchri Studio', Prinsen gracht , in the Teekenacademie , and in the Gebouw voor Kunst en Weten schappen ( Pl. 8 ; F , 5 ),which is also used for theatrical and other performances. De Boer's Grand Bazar Royal ( Pl . 2 ; C, 2) , Zeestraat, is a very attractive emporium of Japanese, Chinese, and other curiosities and fancy -articles of every description . Depot for the Faïence made at Rozenburg , Lange Pooten 39 ; for work by Thooft & Labouchère of Delft (p. 256 ), at Philiponna's , at the corner of the Noordeinde and the Plaats. Booksellers . Van Stockum & Zoon , Buitenhof 36 ; Nyhoff, Nobel- Str. 18. British Minister : Sir Horace Rumbold ; first secretary, H. P. Fenton, Esq. United States Minister : Samuel R. Thayer , Esq. English Church Service in the Church of Ss . John and Philip, Bosch straat, near the Rhenish Station (Pl. E, 4) , at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m.; Rev. Edward Brine, Bezuidenhout 50, chaplain to the British embassy. Principal Attractions. **Picture Gallery ( p. 262 ); Binnenhof (p . 261) ; walk through the Plein ( p. 270 ) , the Korte Voorhout, and the Lange Voorhout (p . 273) ; the * Park (Het Bosch ; p. 275 ); excursion to Scheve ningen (p . 276 ). The Picture Gallery is 1 M. from the Dutch, and 1/2 M. from the Rhenish railway- station. The Hague ( 156,500 inhab . , 1/3 Rom. Cath .) , Fr. La Haye, originally a hunting - seat of the Counts of Holland , whence its Dutch name ' s Graven Hage or den Haag (i.e. ' the count's enclos ure', or ‘ hedge' ) , has for centuries been the favourite residence of the Dutch princes . From the 16th cent. downwards it was the political capital of the States General, and in the 17th and 18th centuries was the centre of all their most important diplomatic - > > Binnenhof. THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 261 > transactions. Owing, however, to the jealousy of the towns entitled to vote in the assembly of the states, the Hague was denied a voice in that body , and therefore continued to be the largest village in Europe' , as it has sometimes been called , until Louis Bonaparte, when King of Holland , conferred on it the privileges of a town. Its aristocratic and prosperous appearance is due solely to the pres ence of the court and the numerous nobles and diplomatists who reside here , and not to the internal resources of the town itself. No town in Holland possesses so many broad and handsome streets , lofty and substantial houses , and spacious and imposing squares as the Hague. The N.E. quarter of the town, with the Vyverberg, the Kneuterdyk, the Voorhout, and the Noordeinde, is especially remarkable in this respect. The neighbourhood of the * VYVER (i . e . fish - pond ; Pl . D, 4,5) , a sheet of water nearly in the middle of the town, enlivened with an island and swans , and partly surrounded by fine old avenues , is the most fashionable quarter. The water is kept in motion by artificial means, fresh water being pumped by a steam-engine on the Dunes into the Vyver and the canals. The impetus thus given to it causes a slight stream towards Rotterdam , where the water is finally pumped out into the Maas. On the S.E. side of the Vyver is situated the Binnenhof (Pl . D, 5 ), an irregular pile of buildings , some of them of mediæval origin , and once surrounded by a moat. Most of the houses have been restored of late, and some of them entirely rebuilt. About the year 1250 Count William of Holland, afterwards elected emperor of Germany, built a palace here , and this building was enlarged by his son Florens V. , who in 1291 made the Hague his capital. The stadtholders, from Maurice of Nassau onwards, all resided here. On the E. of the square stands the old HALL OF THE KNIGHTS (Pl . 60) , a brick building of the time of Florens V. , resembling a chapel, with lofty gables and two turrets ; it now contains the Ar chives of the Home Office. To the E : of the Knights' Hall is the GERECHTSHOF (P1.9), or court of justice,the assize- chamber in which contains good reliefs of 1511 , while the civil court-room is embel lished with scenes from Roman history by G. de Lairesse ( entrance from the passage on the S.E, side, near the ‘Rykstelegraaf ). The N. and S. wings of the Binnenhof are occupied by the CHAMBERS OF THE STATES GENERAL (PI . 63 ; D , 5 ). The old hall of the States of the time of the republic, with two ancient mantel pieces and allegorical paintings by Parmentier, has been restored . (Admission, free, on Mon. , Wed., and Frid., 11-4 ; the gallery is also open to the public during sittings.) The interesting Trêves Sa loon , built by William III. in 1697 as a reception-room, contains a handsome ceiling and the portraits of seven electors by Brandon and other painters (curious echo ). The entrance to these apartments is in the E. corner of the court, by the door inscribed ‘Ministerie van 262 Route 38. THE HAGUE . Picture > Waterstaat, Handel , en Nyverheid '. - In the centre of the court is an elegant wrought iron fountain , with a gilt statuette of Wil liam of Holland ( 1227-1256). Thehistory of the Republic, during its most glorious period, was sullied by two dark tragedies , of which the Binnenhof was witness. The influential John van Oldenbarneveld , the Grand Pensionary , or prime minister of Holland, having incurred the displeasure of Prince Maurice of Orange by his opposition , the stadtholder, during a meeting of the States General, caused Oldenbarneveld to be arrested , together with his learned friends Grotius and Hogerbeets , the Pensionaries of Rotterdam and Leyden. The two latter were conducted to the castle of Loevenstein (p. 349), while the Grand Pensionary himself was condemned to death , ‘for having conspired to dismember the States of the Netherlands, and greatly troubled God's Church ' (comp. p . xxxii) . On 24th May, 1619 , the unfortunate minister, then in his 72nd year, was executed on a scaffold erected in the Binnen hof, after having written a touching vindication of his innocence to his family , and solemnly declared on the scaffold that he had ever acted from sincerely pious and patriotic motives '. The other tragedy alluded to is the death of De Witt, which took place in the immediate neighbour hood of the Binnenhof (see p. 270 ). Passing through the N. E. gate of the Binnenhof , which is adorned with the arms of the County of Holland , we reach a house standing alone on the left, No. 29 , with an entrance- court enclosed by a railing. This is the MAURITSHUIS (Pl . 53 ; E , 5) , erected by Prince John Maurice of Nassau , the Dutch West India Co.'s governor of Brazil (d . 1679) , and now containing the cele brated **Picture Gallery ( Koninklyk Kabinet van Schilderyen ; open daily, Monday to Saturday 10-4 in summer, 10-3 in winter, Sun days and holidays 12.30 to 3 or 4 ; small fee for charge of umbrel las , etc. ). The nucleus of the Gallery of the Hague consists of collections made by the princes of the House of Orange. As early as the first half of the 17th cent. Frederick Henry ( d . 1647) and his consort Amalia of Solms- Braunfels ordered so many pictures from Dutch and Flemish masters that they left no fewer than 250 works to be divided among their four daughters (1675) . William III . formed a collection at the Château of Loo , which on his death was sold at Amsterdam. The Stadtholder William V. (1748-1806) also gradually collected about 200 pictures , many of which are still in this gal lery. To the purchase of the Slingelandt collection the gallery was indebted for a number of its finest works. The flight of the Prince of Orange in 1795 , on the approach of the French troops, was followed by the removal of the pictures to the Louvre . In 1815 a partial restitution took place , but 68 works still remained in Paris. In 1817 the gallery contained only 173 pictures, but the number was rapidly increased by the zealous and successful exertions of King William I. The catalogue now numbers up wards of 450 paintings, of which 300 belong to the Dutch school, 40 to the Flemish , 20 to the German, and 70 to the Italian , French, and Spanish. Director, Dr. A. Bredius. Rembrandt and Potter are the princes of the collection. The Gallery. THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 263 III II IV Holbein . five works by Rembrandt are all among the best specimens of his early manner. Jan Steen , Terburg , Gerard Dou , Adrian van Ostade , and Adrian van de Velde are also represented by master pieces . The finest landscapes are the three Ruysdaels and those of Van der Meer of Delft, a painter who has only recently obtained the fame he deserves . Excellent catalogue in French , by Vict . de Stuers , 11/2 fl . ( out of print); abridgment in Dutch or French ( 1888 ), 50 c . A new catalogue is in preparation. GROUND - FLOOR. We first enter the principal room, facing us, which is numbered III. -Room III. Flemish School. To the left : 226ter, Willeboirts Bosschaert , Venus and Adonis ; 245. Rottenhammer, Re Rubens pose on the Flight into Egypt ; 8. B. van Bassen , Church -interior; and Van Dyck.

• 204. A. van Dyck, Anna Wake,

wife of No. 203 (see below) ; *223 . David Teniers the Younger, The good kitchen ; 222. Frans Snyders, Stag -hunt ( Diana and the land scape by Rubens) . *203. A. van Dyck, Portrait of “ Sir . . . . Shef V field' ( thus catalogued in accor Vestibule. dance with the coat - of - arms in the corner ); 207. Frans Francken Junr. and Fr. Pourbus Jr., Ball at the court of the archducal pair, Albert and Isabella, about 1615 ; * 197. H. van Balen the Younger and J. Brueghel , Sacrifice to Cybele ; 224. David Teniers the Younger, Alchemist; *216. Rubens, Adam and Eve in Eden, the animals by Jan Brueghel ; * 198 . H. van Balen the Younger and F. Brueghel, Naiads ; *240. Hans Holbein the Younger, Portrait of a man, an ex cellent specimen of his later style (1542) ; *238. Holbein, Portrait of Robert Cheseman holding a falcon ( 1533) ; After Holbein , 237. Portrait, 239. Portrait of Jane Seymour, wife of Henry VIII. Over the chimney- piece: 37d. A. Hanneman, Six separate me dallions of the Huygens family, in the centre , Constantyn the statesman and poet, above, Christiaen ( 1640) , the famous savant.

• 221. Frans Snyders , Kitchen with game and vegetables, the figure by Rubens ; 225. Eg. van Tilborg , Dinner ; 226bis. W.Bos schaert , Venus and Adonis ; 206bis . Van Dyck, Portrait of Andr.

Colyns de Nole, a sculptor of Antwerp ; 217. Old copy after Rubens, Parting of Venus and Adonis. Room II . To the left : *206. Van Dyck, Portrait of the Antwerp painter Quintyn Simons, one of the finest portraits painted by the master before he went to England ; 19bis . Cornelis van Haarlem , Marriage of Peleus and Thetis ; 13. Abr. Bloemaert, Hippomenes and Atalanta ; 225bis. M. van Valckenborg the Younger and J. Francken , Alexander the Great visiting Apelles, with sketches of 264 Route 38. THE HAGUE . Picture several famous paintings; 38. J. D. de Heem , Flowers and fruit ;

• 213, *214. Rubens , Isabella Brant and Helena Fourment, the ma ster's first and second wives , both admirably excuted : 34b. Hend .

Goltzius, Hercules ; 113e. J. van Ravesteyn , Portrait ; 220. D. Se ghers, Flowers ; * 95. Ant. More (Sir Anthony More) , Portrait ; 201. Phil. de Champaigne, Portrait of Jacob Govaerts ; 202. Gon zales Cocx or Coques, Interior of a picture gallery with numerous small pictures by different artists ; 219. D. Seghers , Flowers; * 215. Rubens , Portrait of his confessor Michael Ophovius , afterwards Bishop of Bois-le-Duc. Room I. 243. Rottenhammer, Meeting of David and Abigail ; 225ter. Fr. Floris, Venus and Adonis ; 113y, 113f. J. van Ravesteyn , Portraits; 246. Rottenhammer, Phaëton; 40bis, 40ter. Marten Heems kerck van Veen , Nativity , and Adoration of the Magi; on the back, Annunciation ; 34a. H. Goltzius , Mercury ; 208a. Ab. Govaerts, Landscape ; 19. Cornelis, Massacre of the Innocents ; 340. H. Goltzius, Minerva ; 126. R. Savery, Orpheus; 140. H. van Steen wyk , Open place ; 210a.H. Jordaens, Israelites crossing the Red Sea ; 211. P. Neeffs and F. Francken , Church-interior. In the side- room A , on the right : in the middle, * 226 . Roger van der Weyden , Descent from the Cross ; on the walls : Jac. Cornelisz, 19d. Triptych , 19c. Daughter of Herodias with the head of John the Baptist ; 231 , 232, 233. B. Behaim, Portraits of Elizabeth , Maxi milian , and Anna of Austria when children . Rooms IV. & V.: Portraits of Princes of the House of Orange, their relatives, and other celebrated personages . In Room IV. are several * Portraits by Ravesteyn ; also 15. 16. F. Bol, Admiral de Ruyter and his son ; 127. G. Schalcken, William III . of England ; 247f. Tischbein, Princess Wilhelmina of Orange. - In Room V. 51quater . G. van Honthorst, The Great Elector of Brandenburg and his consort Louisa Henrietta ; 92bis. J. A. Mytens, Princess ; 82. Mich. van Mierevelt, William theSilent; 253a. Unknown Artist, The three brothers Coligny; * 192. Unknown Artist, William the Silent ; *96, *97. P. Moreelse , Countess of Hanau, Countess of Arenberg ; 44a. P. van Hilligaert, Prince Maurice of Orange and his retinue . On the staircase are several paintings by J. van Ravesteyn and two by Ab. van den Tempel. FIRST FLOOR, ANTE -Room (VI. ) , beginning with the left wall , at the window : 136. Jan Steen, Physician feeling a young lady's pulse.

• 124. Jacob van Ruysdael, Distant view of Haarlem.

" The foreground is occupied by a level meadow, on which long strips of linen are being bleached. The houses in connection with the bleaching green stand towards the left. Beyond , stretching to the horizon , is a monotonous plain, almost totally destitute of trees or dwellings, and in theextreme distance are distinguishable the town and church of Haarlem. And all these miles of landscape are represented on a little canvas, only 18 in. high ! ' Burger. Gallery. THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 265 - X Potter XIII IX 137. Jan Steen, The doctor's visit; 47. Melchior d'Hondecoeter, The ‘Raven in peacock's feathers'; * 123 . Jac. van Ruysdael, The beach ;

• 74. G. Metsu , Lady writing, a man behind her, and a mandolin

player in the background ; 179. J. Wynants, View on the dunes ; 37b. and 37c. Fr. Hals, Portraits of J. Olycan and his wife (1625) ; between these, 180 a . E. de Witte, Church-interior ; no number,

• J. van Goyen, View of Dordrecht ; 52. S. van Hoogstraeten , Lady reading; 93c. J. M. Molenaer, Merry party ; 128. Schalcken , Young woman putting on earrings ; 105a. J. Duck, Officer; 132. Sonje,

Landscape; 143. Van Swanewelt, Italian landscape ; 14. Bloemaert, Marriage of Peleus ; 46a. Gysbert d'Hondecoeter, Cock and hens ; 168ter. Ad. van de Venne, Brawling peasants ; 140bis . Stoop, Con vent of Belem, near Lisbon ; 41a. J. van der Heyden , Still-life ; 106a . Chr. Pierson , Portrait ; 36.J. van der Hagen , Landscape ; 54. Huchtenburg , The sally ; 33. Caesar van Everdingen , Diogenes ' seeking for a man' in Haarlem market - place , with portraits of Grand Pensionary Steyn and his family ; 131a. Slabbaert , Soldier ; 46. G. Houckgeest, Tomb of William I. at Delft (p. 257) ; 55. Huchtenburg, Fight ; 133. Soolmaker , Italian landscape ; 37. J. van der Hagen , Landscape; 70. Jan Lingelbach, Charles II . embarking for England ; 9. Nicholas Berchem , Pastoral scene, of unusual size ;

• 39. J. de Heem , Flowers and

fruit ; 69. Jan Lingelbach, Prince William II. of Orange before Am- |Anatomy sterdam(1650); no number, * A.van Beyeren , Flowers ; 51ter . G. van Honthorst, Child plucking fruit;

• 184 . Phil. Wouverman , ' Un

manège en pleine campagne (an equestrian puts his steed through its paces, before a lady seated in a carriage drawn by six grey horses) ; 3. W. van Aelst , Dead poultry ; 16. F. Bol, Portrait; 53. Huchtenburg, Prince Eugeneof Savoy. - Among the busts we may mention that of William the Silent, by Hendrik de Keyser (No. 3 ). Room VII. (comp. Plan ). To the right : *61 . Th. de Keyser, Portrait of a magistrate ( 1631 ); 98bis . Paul Moreelse, Portrait of himself. No number, *Rembrandt , Portrait of Saskia his wife, on paper ( 1637 ; lent to the museum by Dr. A. Bredius) ; 177, 178. Westerbaen, Geesteranus, the preacher, and his wife.

• • 115. Rembrandt's celebrated School of Anatomy, painted for the Amsterdam guild of surgeons in 1632 , and intended to adorn the Dissecting Room (“Snykamer') at Amsterdam along with other pictures of a similar nature (see p. lv) . These, however, whether of later or earlier date , have been completely eclipsed and con

Rembr. VI VII XI VIII XII 266 Route 38. THE HAGUE. Picture signed to oblivion by this masterly group of portraits. Burger has justly characterised this picture as the truest and most lifelike representation of the 'working of intellect ever produced . The painting remained among those mentioned at p. 325 till 1828 , when it was purchased by King William I. for 32,000 fl. This picture represents the celebrated anatomist Nicolaus Tulp, a friend and patron of Rembrandt, in a vaulted saloon , engaged in ex plaining the anatomy of the arm of a corpse . He wears a black cloak with a lace collar, and a broad -brimmed soft hat. With his half -raised left hand he makes a gesture of explanation, while with his right he is dissecting a sinew of the arm of his subject. The corpse lies on a table before him . To the right of Tulp is a group of five figures ; and two other men are sitting at the table in front. These listeners are not students , but members of the guild of surgeons of Amsterdam , as shown by a paper held by one of them . They are attending to the lecture with very various expressions. They are all bare-headed, dressed in black, and with turned - over collars , except one who still wears the old -fashioned, upright ruff . There are perhaps other persons present in the hall , as Tulp appears to be looking beyond the picture , as if about to address an audience not visible to the spectator ; and it is here worthy of remark that Rembrandt's compositions are never imprisoned in their frames, but convey an idea of a wide space beyond them . It is somewhat singular that the spectator seems hardly to notice the corpse lying before him at full length , the feet of which he can almost touch, although it is strongly lighted in contrast to the surrounding black garments and most faith fully presents the peculiar hue of a dead body , leaving no doubt that it was painted from nature as well as the living heads. The admirable art of the composition consists in its power of riveting the attention to the living in the presence of death. The painting is signed at the top , ' Rembrant f. 1632 '. Burger. Musées de la Hollande.

• 118 . Rembrandt , Portrait of himself (as an officer); * 62.

Thomas de Keyser, The four burgomasters of Amsterdam receiving the news of the arrival of Marie de Médicis (1638) , perhaps merely a sketch for a larger work, but painted with great vigour ; *32. Sal. Koninck , Adoration of the Kings ; 65c. P. Lastman, Raising of Lazarus ( 1632). Opposite , third wall :

• 104. Adrian van Ostade , Cottage- interior, with eight figures ,

assembled for the purpose of smoking, singing , and drinking , or Worship of Bacchus and Apollo ( 1662); 188. Ph. Wouverman , Hunters resting ; 102, 103. C. Netscher, Portraits of M. and Mme. van Waalwyk ; 58. Dujardin, Italian landscape ; * 112. Paul Potter, ' La Vache qui se mire' , a herd of cattle by a river, with the form of a cow reflected by the water in the foreground, and men bathing behind (1648 ); 117. Rembrandt , Portrait of himself, painted about 1630 ( similar studies at Cassel, Gotha, and Nuremberg ); 17. J. Both , Italian landscape.

• 165 . Adrian van de Velde, Beach at Scheveningen , enlivened with charming groups of figures, and an aërial perspective perhaps unequalled by the painter in any other work ; 167. W. van de Velde the Younger, The Y at Amsterdam ; * 185 . Phil. Wouverman, Land scape, known as the ' Hay Cart' .
• 105. Adrian van stade, The Fiddler.

An itinerant fiddler, standing in front of an old and weather -beaten house , is delighting a numerous audience with his skill . The representa 2 > Gallery. THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 267 sons . tion of the scene in the open air has given the artist an opportunity of introducing the most varied effects of the reflection of light . Few of Ostade's works can compare with this in freshness of composition and finish of execution. It was painted in 1673, when the artist was in his sixty -third year. 99. Moucheron, Italian landscape , figures by Lingelbach ; 101 . C. Netscher, The painter with his wife and daughter ( 1665) ; 121 . Ruysch, Flowers . Room VIII. On the right : 64. Ph . Koninck, Mouth of a river ; 12. Nicolas Berchem , Cavalry attack ; 174. J. Weenix , Hunter's Booty ; G. Metsu , 75. Justice protecting the widow and the orphan , 73. Hunter ; *113 . Paul Potter, Landscape with cows and pigs.

• • 114. Rembrandt, Presentation in the Temple, usually called in Holland “ Simeon in the Temple ', the earliest important com position of the artist known, painted in 1631 , soon after he settled

at Amsterdam . ' In the middle of the Temple, the fantastic architecture of which is lost in the darkness , the light is concentrated on a group of seven per Simeon with eyes raised towards heaven , and wearing a robe glittering with gold , is represented kneeling , with the infant Christ in his arms ; the Madonna, in a light blue robe, with folded hands is also kneeling ; while Joseph on his knees offers the sacrificial doves . A little to the left, as a counterpoise to Simeon, is the high - priest, with a long flowing robe , and almost turning his back to the spectator, raising his right hand, which gleams in the strongest light, in an attitude of bene diction . Behind the Virgin are two rabbis. To the left , in the back ground of the aisles, several groups are observed in the twilight, and to the right in the chiaroscuro are a number of people ascending and descending a stair. On the same side, quite in the foreground , are two venerable old men sitting on a bench . The back of the bench bears the monogram R. H. (Rembrandt Harmensz) and the date 1631. This ad mirable little work, of the master's earliest period , already exhibits the bold touch and the striking effects for which Rembrandt is famous , but the Madonna, who stands in the full light, is somewhat cold and insigni ficant in character' . Burger. Musées de la Hollande.

• 116 . Rembrandt, Susanna, on the point of stepping into her

bath , is alarmed by the presence of the two elders (of whom one only is distinguishable in the shrubbery ), painted in 1637. Placed by the side of the School of Anatomy and the Simeon , the merits of this work are too often overlooked . Yet Susanna, strongly relieved against a dark background, is one of the most interesting female figures ever painted by Rembrandt, being remarkably faithful to nature , though not of classic beauty. In all probability the painter's wife Saskia stood to him as a model 18. Jan and Andries Both , Italian scene ;; 59. J. Duck, Spinner ;

• 28. G. Dou, The young housekeeper.

A lady with a child in the cradle, and an attendant , a carefully -exe cuted picture. The work, also known as " The Household ', is one of the gems of the collection, and is of equal merit with the celebrated 'Drop sical Lady' in the Louvre. It is dated 1658 . 170. A. de Vois, Huntsman ; 8 f. J. Bellevois , View of Gorinchem . At the first window : Frans van Mieris the Elder, 86. Portrait of Professor Florentius Schuyl of Leyden , 85. Soap-bubbles . 29. Ger. Dou , Woman with a lamp ; *87. Frans van Mieris the Elder, The artist and his wife. At the second window : 134. Jan Steen, The 268 Route 38. THE HAGUE. Museum . dentist ; * 164. A. van de Velde, Wooded landscape with cattle, a small picture, full of life and charming in colour. Second Wall : *182. Ph. Wouverman, The Departure ; 41. Jan van der Heyde, View of a town , the figures by A. van de Velde ;

• 72. Jan Ver Meer, usually called Van der Meer of Delft, View of Delft; Ph. Wouverman , *181 . The Arrival ; 186. Large battle piece ; 8d. A. Begein , Quarry ; 33bis. A. de Gelder, Judah and Tamar ; 180. J. Wynants, View of the dunes, figures by Lingelbach .

Third Wall : 40. Corn . de Heem , Fruit ; 169. Hendrik Willemsz van Vliet, Interior of the Oude Kerk at Delft; 71. N. Maes, Por trait of a man ; 98. F. Moucheron and A. van de Velde, Italian scene ; 120. Ruysch, Flowers. Room IX. ( comp. Plan, p. 265). On the right: 45. Houckgeest, Interior of the Nieuwe Kerk at Delft. *139 . Jan Steen, Guest chamber in the painter's brewery . This work is also sometimes styled a " picture of human life ', many persons being of opinion that Steen painted scenes of conviviality with the same moralising tendency as Hogarth, for the purpose of rebuking human follies and vices. The picture contains about twenty persons. While the elders are enjoying their oysters, the children are playing with a dog and cat. Jan Steen himself plays a merry air, while a young woman is looking towards him , and a portly boor is laughing , glass in hand . In the background are card - players and smokers. 21. A. Cuyp, Portrait of Mr. de Roovere , overseer of the salmon - fisheries at Dort ; 66. Jan Livens, old man with a beard ; 48. Melchior d'Hondecoeter , Menagerie of Prince William III. at the Château of L00 ; 187. Ph. Wouverman, Camp ; *145. Gerard Terburg, Portrait of the artist as burgomaster of Deventer ; *122. Jac. van Ruysdael, Waterfall ; *42. Barth. van der Helst, Portrait of Paul Potter, the animal-painter.

• 111 . Paul Potter's far -famed Bull , the most popular picture in the collection , remarkable as one of the few animal-pieces which the master painted on so large ascale (1647) .

The picture was carried off to Paris by the French, and was regarded as fourth in point of value among all the pictures in the Louvre . The three which ranked before it were Raphael's Transfiguration , Domeni chino's Communion of St. Jerome, and Titian's Martyrdom of St. Peter. This celebrated picture was purchased in 1749 for 630 fl. , but before it was restored by the French the Dutch government offered 60,000 fl . to Napoleon for its restoration. Much, however, as the bull , which has a cow , a sheep and lamb, a ram , and a shepherd as companions, has been praised , it must in candour be admitted that several of the master's smaller animal- pieces are more attractive and perfect. The large animals in this work are in too strong relief, and the light is distributed somewhat monotonously over the whole picture without being softened by inter mediate tones. At the first window : 110a. H. G. Pot, Merry company ; no number, P. Mulier, Mouth of a river ; 18 aaa. P. Codde, Soldiers playing backgammon ; 35a. J. Hackaert, Landscape ; 189. Ph. Wouverman , Huntsmen resting, a specimen of his earlier style. At the centre window : 68. Lingelbach, Landscape with hay cart ; 183. Ph . Wouverman , Hawking ; 10. N. Berchem , Boar-hunt, Gallery. THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 269 7 178a. Th. Wyk, Alchemist. At the third window : 124a. J. van Ruysdael and Ph. Wouverman , View of the Vyverberg (p. 271). Third wall : 11. N. Berchem, The ford , Italian landscape.

• 135. Jan Steen, Poultry-yard , known as the Menagerie ( 1660 ).

The picture represents a platform with several steps leading to a court with a brook flowing through it , and an old leafless tree on the right with a peacock on one of its branches. Ducks are paddling in the water, and pigeons and fowls picking up grain from the ground. On one of the steps sits a girl with a saucer, out of which a lamb is drinking. A bald-headed man - servant with a basket of eggs is speaking cheerfully with her, while another standing on the platform with a fowl under his arm looks at her laughingly. The last is a remarkably characteristic and life - like figure. 168. W. van de Velde the Younger, Calm sea with shipping ; 173 . Jan Weenix, Dead swan, natural size ; 22. Dirk van Deelen and Ant . Palamedesz, Hall of the Binnenhof during the grand assembly of the States General in 1651. — To the left of the entrance : 50, 49. Hondecoeter, Hens, Ducks ; L. Bakhuysen, 6. Dutch seaport, 5 . William III. of England disembarking at the Orange Polder on his return from England in 1692 ; 106. A. de Pape, old woman pluck ing a fowl.

• 138. Jan Steen , Portrait of himself and his family, an unusu ally large picture for this master, boldly and energetically painted in his best style.

" The worthy Jan Steen has here assembled his whole family around him . The group consists of eleven persons . The principal place at the table is of course occupied by Jan himself , a figure with long hair and a broad hat, laughing and smoking, and apparently about to drink . On his left is his wife , a corpulent lady in a blue fur-trimmed velvet jacket, filling a pipe, which one is almost tempted to think is for her own use. Jan's aged mother, to the left in front, is dandling a grandchild on her knees, while his father by the fireside, in spectacles, is singing from a sheet of music accompanied on the fluté by Jan's eldest son , a handsome lad, almost grown up. In the immediate foreground are a dog, some copper utensils, and a mortar on which the master has placed his signature'. Burger. Musées de la Hollande.

• 144. Gerard Terburg, ' The Dispatch'.

An officer holds a letter which appears to have been delivered to him by a trumpeter. This picture, also called The Interruption ', is one of the most charming works of the master, full of life and expression, and rivalling the famed ' Paternal Admonition' at Amsterdam. It is unfortun ately much darkened by age. CABINET X (to the left). 147-161 . Corn. Troost, Fifteen draw ings in chalk, illustrating the customs of the early 18th cent., and of little artistic value ; 247 f. , 247 g. Tischbein, Crayon portraits. CABINET XIII (to the right). N. Moeyaert, 93 a. Train of Bacchus. 93b. Mercury and Hersa ; 166. E. van de Velde, Banquet ; 113a. P. Potter (father of the animal painter ), Pastoral scene ; 20. A. van Cuylenborch, Diana and nymphs; 70a. Backer, Portrait; 20. Drooch Sloot, Village fair; 1680. D. Vinckboons, Village fair ; 18aa. P. Codde, Dancers; 63. Kerincx, Landscape ; 107bis, G. Pinas, Cru cifixion ; 8bb. s . van Beest, Market- scene. 270 Route 38. THE HAGUE. Buitenhof. Room XI. ( comp. the Plan , p . 265), beginning to the left of the door : No. 292. Fabr. Santafede ( d. 1634) , Holy Family and St. Elizabeth ; 298. School of Titian, Madonna and Child with St. Catharine; 257. School of Velazquez, Portrait of the Infante Charles Balthazar, son of Philip IV, of Spain ; 274. Cignani, Adam and Eve ; 289, 290. Salvator Rosa (?) , Monks praying ; 280. Lodovico Mazzolino, Massacre of the Innocents. Room XII. , beginning to the right of the door : 277a. Marcello Fagolino, Madonna and saints ; 255. After Murillo, Madonna ; 253. C. J. Vernet, Waterfall ; 267. P. da Cortona , Holy Family ; 316 quater, Florentine School , Portrait of Giuliano da Sangallo, the architect. 2 The PLEIN (Pl. E, 5) , an extensive square on the E. side of the Mauritshuis , is adorned with the Statue of Prince William I. (Pl . 46 ), in bronze, by Royer, erected in 1848. The statue is re presented with one finger slightly raised, in allusion to his well known taciturnity. His favourite motto , " saevis tranquillus in undis' , and the dedication of the monument by the grateful people to the father of their fatherland , are inscribed on the pedestal . At the W. angle of the Plein is the Colonial Office (P1.40 ), and ad joining it on the S. , with an entrance-court and portico , is the Hooge Raad ( Pl. 15) . In the angle is the office of the Ministry of Justice (Pl . 39) , a handsome new building of brick and white stone, in the Dutch Renaissance style (admission after 4 p.m.). Opposite rises the War Office ( Pl. 42) , which in the time of the Republic was the residence of the deputies from Rotterdam. On the N.E. stands the handsome edifice which at present contains the National Archives (Pl. 61) , formerly the house of the Amsterdam deputies. The most interesting document in the collection is a copy of the Peace of Westphalia ( 1648 ). · On the N.W. is the club-house of the Witte or Litteraire Societeit (Pl . 71) , to which strangers are only admitted when introduced by a member. Not far off stands the Municipal Mu seum (p . 272) . The BUITENHOF (Pl. D, 5), a large open space adjoining the Binnenhof on the S. W. , and also bounded on the N. side by the Vyver , is adorned with a mediocre Statue of William II. (Pl . 45 ; d. 1849) in bronze , erected in 1853. —On the S. side is a Passage, or arcade (opened in 1885) , in the Dutch Renaissance style, leading to the Spuistraat ; it is 185 yds . long, 7 yds. wide, 65 ft . high, with a cupola, 80 ft. high, over the middle, and contains a hotel, a café, and several attractive shops . The Gevangenpoort (Pl . 12 ; D, 4) is an ancient tower with a gateway leading ( N. ) from the Buitenhof to the Plaats. In 1672 Cornelis de Witt, who was falsely accused of a conspiracy against the life of the stadtholder William III . , was imprisoned here. His brother John de Witt, the Grand Pensionary, hearing that his ܕ Town Hall. THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 271 brother was in danger , hastened to the tower to afford him pro tection. The infuriated populace, who had been induced by the enemies of the two brothers to believe in their guilt , availed themselves of this opportunity , and, having forced their way into the prison , seized the persons of their ill- fated victims, whom they literally tore to pieces with savage cruelty ( comp. p . xxxiii) . The brothers are buried in the Nieuwe Kerk. The old prison, in which a collection of instruments of torture has been formed , is open daily , free , from 10 (Sundays and holidays 12. 30) to 4. A little farther to the N. lie the Plaats and the Vyverberg , see below. Adjoining the Buitenhof on the S.W. is the Groenmarkt , and beyond it the Vischmarkt (Pl. C, 5) . The *Town Hall (Pl. 62) , built in 1565 , restored by Van Bassen about 1647, enlarged in 1734 by the addition of the N. wing, and again restored and extended in 1882-83, stands on the E. side of the Vischmarkt. This picturesque building is one of the most in teresting of its class in Holland . It belongs to the beginning of ' the period in which the flowing forms that characterise the later Dutch architecture came into vogue ( comp. pp. 280, 286) . The two side- façades probably owe some of their remarkable architectonic features to the influence of the mediæval patrician house of the Brederode, which previously occupied the site . The statues of Justice and Prudence on the main façade are by J. B. Xavery. The S. entrance , opposite the Nieuwe Straat, leads to a vestibule , which contains the bench of the old sheriff's court ("Schepenenbank ') and three paintings by Willem Doudyns, representing the Judgment of Solomon. The Groote Kerk (Pl . C, 5) , or Church of St. James, is a Gothic edifice of the 15-16th cent., with a hexagonal tower, surmounted by a modern iron spire . The interior, which is finely vaulted , contains a few monuments , among them that of Admiral Obdam, who fell in 1665 in a naval engagement with the English in the Sound, by Eggers ; and also some stained glass of 1547. In the sacristy are the remains of an alabaster monument of a Mynheer van Assendelft (d . 1486) and his wife . The carved wooden pulpit ( 1550) and the frames of the coats - of- arms of some knights of the Golden Fleece , placed in the choir after the chapter of 1456 , also deserve notice. The large new organ , built in 1881 , is fine. The sacristan lives at Kerkplein 8, adjoining the Post Office (25 c. ) . Fine view from the tower (25 c . ). To the s., opposite the Groote Kerk, is the covered Fish Market (Pl. 69 ; C, 5) , the rendezvous of the fish - women of Scheveningen . Several storks (a bird which figures in the armorial bearings of the town) are maintained in the court at the public expense. Along the N, side of the Vyver (p . 261) extends the shady VYVERBERG , which is continued on the E. by the Tournooiveld 272 38 Route. THE HAGUE. Steengracht Collection. ( Pl. D, E, 4) . In the latter, at the corner of the Korte Vyverberg, önce occupied by the Sebastiansdoelen (built in 1636) , is the new building of the * Municipal Museum ( Haagsch or Gemeente Museum : Pl. 50) , which contains the old pictures formerly in the Town Hall , and also numerous good modern works. Among the former are several corporation -pieces by Jan van Ravesteyn ( 1572-1657), the favourite painter of the Town Council and fashionable society of the Hague. The museum is open on weekdays from 10 to 4 ( in winter till 3) and on Sun. and holidays from 1 to 4 ( no fees ). Old Pictures . 18. Gerrit Berck - Heyde, The Vyverberg in 1692 ; no number, G. Berck -Heyde, Plaats, Gevangenpoort, and Binnenhof (pp270, 261) ; 41, 42. J. van Croos, Landscapes near the Hague ( small paintings round larger ones) ; 49, 50. Dubordieu , Portraits ; *60. Jan van Goyen, View of the Hague, S. side of the town, the largest ( 15 ft. by 51/2 ft.) and one of the most important works of this master, who knew so well how to pourtray the autumnal colouring of a Dutch landscape ; 125. Joachim Houckgeest ( first half of the 17th cent.), An ensign of the green banner of the house of Orange ; Mierevelt the Elder , 158 , 159. Prince Frederick Henry and Princess Amalia of Solms ( 1634 ), 157. William the Silent, and two other portraits. 176. Paul Potter, Bull attacked by dogs ( 1649 ); 132. C. Janssens van Ceulen, Magistrate of the Hague in 1647, the painter's master piece ; * 178. Jan van Ravesteyn, Banquet partaken of by fourteen town councillors and nine officers of the Guild of Arquebusiers, whose Captain , according to the annual usage , receives the ' cup of welcome'(' een frissen roemer met wyn ') ; the costume is not that of the 17th cent., but of an earlier period, with tall , narrow -brimmed hats and upright ruffs, and accords well with the grave and dignified deportment of the figures (dated 1618). * 179 . Jan van Ravesteyn, Twelve members of the town -council of 1636 in half- figure , sitting at their green table , with which their black dress contrasts admirably; the only colours the picture contains are green, black, and the flesh - tint of the faces, and the effect is very harmo nious and pleasing. * 177. Jan van Ravesteyn, Twenty- five arquebusiers of the Guild of St. Sebastian, descending the staircase of the Shooting-gallery (‘Doelen '), engaged in animated conversation and strikingly life - like. 180. Jan van Ravesteyn, Six officers of the white arquebusiers (1638 ) ; 228-231. Pieter van der Werft, Portraits ; 110. Portrait of Spinoza, by an unknown painter. Views of the Hague, etc. Modern Pictures. 33. J. Bosboom , Interior of St. Peter's Church at Leyden ; 35. Henri Bource, Wives and children of Scheveningen fishermen on a summer-evening; 69. J. Hanedoes, Sunset on the dunes near Haar lem ; 129. Van Hove, Interior of a synagogue ; 133. Ten Kate, Reckoning day ; 156. Mesdag, Sea -piece; 213. Verveer , FourCold salts' . The museum also contains a collection of ANTIQUITIES belonging to the town (glasses , porcelain, medallions, banners of the guilds, etc.) . To the W. , in the direction of the Plaats , Vyverberg 3 , is the House of Baron Steengracht (P1.18 ; D, 4 ), containing a fine col lection of ancient and modern paintings arranged in three saloons, to which all lovers of art are liberally admitted in the absence of the owner (10-4 ; fee, 1 fl. ). Catalogues are distributed throughout the rooms. The MODERN PICTURES, of the French and Dutch schools, are exhibited in Room I. To the right of the entrance. Gérôme, Scene in the Desert ; Decamps, Dogs and children ; Willems, Lady and cavalier . To the left of the entrance: Verveer , Canal at Amsterdam ; Horace Vernet , The last cartridge ; Winterhalter , Roman women ; Waldorp, Sea-piece. On the opposite wall: * Meissonier, Soldiers playing cards ; Bougereau, Girl knit ting; Blees, By the cradle ; Landelle, Girl with fruit ; Villegas, Siesta. – Back -wall, ' to the left : Meyer, Sea-piece; Kobell, Landscape with cattle ; Kneuterdyk . THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 273 Verschuur, Stable ; Noel, Tavern ; Schelfhout, Winter-scene near Haarlem ; Navez, Roman women ; *Koekkoek, in the forest. Among the * ANCIENT PICTURES are specimens of the chief Dutch masters of the 17th cent. , some of them being cabinet-pieces of the first rank. There are in all upwards of 80 works, which fill the two following rooms. Room II. On the left : * Rembrandt, Bathsheba , after her bath , watched from a distance by King David. Thebeautiful Jewess is seated on a rug in a thickly -wooded park , by the side of the basin in which she has been bathing ; beside her are two attendants. The arrangement of the picture is analogous to that of the Susanna in the Mauritshuis (p. 267), but this work is the finer of the two. The chiaroscuro, against which, as in the Susanna, the female figure stands in exquisite relief, is treated in the most masterly style, forcibly recalling the famous ' Night Watch' at Amsterdam . According to Vosmaer , the Bathsheba was painted in 1643 , less than a year after the completion of that splendid work. As if to enhance the effect, another picture is hung below of the same sub ject by Van der Wert', whose smooth and elegant Bathsheba almost re sembles a wax figure when compared with the warm and life- like crea tion of Rembrandt. Rubens, Heads of SS. Peter and Paul ; A. van de Velde, Cattle ; Rubens, Drunken Bacchus ; Alb. Cuyp , Horse ; Rubens, Infant Christ ; Jordaens, At the fountain ; Peter de Hooch, Musical party ; Barth. van der Helst, Portraits of a man and woman ; Th . de Keyser, Portrait of a man ; Paul Potter , Three cows; Nic. Maes , Peasant woman making pancakes, and a boy eating them. Room III . Right wall, beginning at the window : J. van Ruysdael, Waterfall ; A. van Ostade, Interior of a cottage ; Terburg, Mother dressing her daughter's hair ; Karel du Jardin, Herd -boy playing with his dog ; Te niers the Younger, The Seven Works of rcy ; Jan Steen , The painter and his family, nearly life- size, an unusually large work for this master; Metsu , Mother with a sick child ; W. van de Velde, Sea -piece ; Jan Steen , Physician's visit ; Ascribed to Rembrandt, Mother and child. - Entrance wall: Allart van Everdingen , Waterfall; A. van Ostade , Pig driven to market; F. Bol, Portrait ; L. Bakhuysen, Sea- piece . Third wall : C. Net scher, Two portraits ; Adr. Brouwer , Peasant scene ; * Hobbema , Large landscape; Th. de Keyser, Lace-maker; Fr. van Mieris, Boy with a cage; Mieris and Slingeland, The captive mouse ; Ger. Dou, Portraits of a man and woman ; Arie de Vois, Peasant smoking ; A. van Ostade , Peasants . Also numerous landscapes. In the adjacent square, called the KNBUTERDYK (Pl . C, 3) , is the office of the Minister of Finance (Pl . 38 ), originally the house of Oldenbarneveld. To the left runs the NOORDBINDB (Pl . C, 4,3), with the Royal Palace, built in the time of Stadtholder William III. , and containing a few unimportant family -paintings (admission only in the absence of the royal family ). In front of the palace stands the equestrian *Statue of Prince William I. of Orange (Pl . 47), in bronze , designed by Count Nieuwerkerke, and erected by King William II. in 1845. On the pedestal are the arms of the seven provinces. Behind the statue is the new Paleisstraat, leading through what was once the garden of the palace to the Orangestraat. Farther on , to the right in the Parkstraat, is the new Roman Catholic Church of St. James (Pl . 23 ; D, 3 ), built by P. J. H. Cuypers. The Park straat ends at the Willems- Park ( p . 275). The Kneuterdyk is bounded on the E. by the LANGB VOORHOUT (Pl. D, E, 2 ), a square surrounded by handsome buildings and planted with trees, which, along with the Kneuterdyk and the Noord BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 18 274 Route 38. THE HAGUE. Library. a einde , forms the finest quarter of the town . On the S. side is the Navy Office (Pl . 41 ; D , 4 ), Lange Voorhout 7 . Nearly opposite , on the N. side of the Lange Voorhout, is a spacious edifice (No. 34 ), built by Huguetan, Louis XIV's banker, containing the royal Library (Pl . 3 ; E, 4) , open to the public on week days from 10 to 4, and on Sun. and holidays from 12 to 4. It contains about 400,000 volumes. The miniatures intheprayer- book of Philippe le Bon of Burgundy, painted in grisaille ( 1455-65 ), are of great artistic value ; several of them , such as the Annunciation and Coronation of the Virgin , are in the style of Memling. The prayer books of Isabella of Castile (1450), Catharine ofAragon, and Cathe rine de Medicis, a Gospel of the 10th cent. , a Psalter of the 12th cent. , a Bible with autograph of Mary Stuart, presented to Wil liam III. and Mary on their coronation (1689) , etc. , also merit in spection. The most precious objects are exhibited under glass in the entrance-hall . The valuable collection of Coins, MEDALS , and Gems in the same building is open on Mondays , Wednesdays, and Fridays , 10-3 o'clock. It contains upwards of 40,000 coins and medals, and 300 cameos, most of them antique, including the Apotheosis of the Emp. Claudius, one of the largest known ; also a collection of Syrian and Babylonian seals and dies . The following are among the finest: Head of Hercules ; bust of Bac chus ; Faun attempting to rob a Bacchante of her robe; reversed lyre with horns represented by two dolphins, springing from a rose-crowned head of Cupid , grouped artistically with the panther of Bacchus, which holds the thyrsus in its front paw ; mask with large beard and open mouth ;Venus and Cupid ; Cybele riding on the lion; giant dragging a griffin from a cavern ; helmeted head in profile, with a long beard ; Ho mer as a statue ; several portrait-heads ; head of Medusa , in cornelian, a beautiful modern work. The catalogue of the director gives full par ticulars about every object in the collection . On the W. side of the Lange Voorhout is an octagonal sand stone monument(Pl. 48 ; E, 4) to Duke Charles Bernhard of Saxe Weimar (d. 1862), who distinguished himself in the Dutch service at the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, in the battles against the Belgian insurgents in 1831 , and in the East Indian Wars of 1849. - Ad jacent, in the Korte Vorhout, rise the Theatre (Pl. 68 ; E , 4) , and the Palace of Princess Marie (P1. 57 ; F, 4 ), the late king's cousin . On the Prinzesse -Gracht is the Cannon Foundry (Pl. 11 ), beyond which is the Museum MBERMANNO-WBSTRABNIANUM (Pl . 51 ; F, 4) , a somewhat motley collection of MSS. , specimens of early typography, coins, ancient vases , a few small ancient sculptures, Japanese curiosities, etc., bequeathed by Count Meermann (d . 1816) and Baron Westreenen (d . 1850) . The most interesting MSS. are a fragment of an Old Testament of the 5th cent. ; a book of theGospels of the 9th cent.; aFlemish Bible in rhyme, of 1332 ; a French Bible with miniatures by Jan of Bruges, executed in 1371 for Charles V., the Wise, of France ; the Ethics of Aristotle in French, of 1376, with miniatures in grisaille ; French translation of Au > Park . THE HAGUE. 38. Route. 275 gustine's 'De Civitate Dei' , with numerous miniatures ( end of the 15th, or early in the 16th cent. ) ; and several others of the early Flemish and Dutch schools . Among the specimens of TYPOGRAPHY are several block books , such as were common at the close of the middle ages, particularly in Holland ; incunabula of Gutenberg and Caxton, etc. Unfortunately the museum is open only on the first and third Thursday of every month , 10-4 o'clock. Tickets are issued on the previous day, 10-4 o'clock, by the director of the library (p. 274 ). The visitor is conducted through the museum by an attendant. The WILLEMS-PARK (Pl . D, 2), a circular Place enclosed by pleas ant houses and gardens, at the N.W. corner of the town, on the way to Scheveningen , is adorned with the imposing * National Monument (Pl. 44 ), begun in 1863 and inaugurated in 1869, to commemorate the restoration of Dutch independence in 1813 and the return of Prince William Frederick of Orange, who after wards became king. On the massive substructure rises a lofty rect angular column bearing a smaller one which is adorned with the arms of the kingdom and the seven provinces , the whole being crowned with a Batavia in bronze, holding a banner in her right hand and a sheaf of arrows in the left, with the lion of the Nether lands at her feet. On the side facing the town Prince William Frederick is represented in his coronation-robes , swearing to main tain the constitution . At the back are Gysbert Karel van Hogen dorp, Fr. Ad . van der Duyn, and Count L. van Limburg-Styrum, the leaders of the rising in November, 1813. The figures on the narrow sides are emblematical of Liberty and Law. All these figures are in bronze, having been modelled by Jaquet. Two reliefs on the round part of the pedestal represent the rising of the people and the arrival of the king. The whole monument was designed by W. C. van der Wayen - Pieterszen and Koelman . Near the monu ment is De Boer's Bazaar (p . 260) . The Nieuwe Kerk ( Pl. D, 6), on the Spui, with wooden vault ing, was built by Hendrik de Keyser (p. 248 ); it contains the tombs of the De Witts ( p. 271) and of Spinoza ( near the pulpit). Spinoza's House, Paveljoensgracht 32,opposite the Heilig -Geesthofje (Pl. 14 ; C, 6) , was occupied by the great philosopher from 1671 down to his death in 1677. Opposite isa bronze Statue of Spinoza (Pl. 49) , by Hexamer, erected in 1880. The Zoological- Botanic Garden (Pl. F , 3) is a favourite place of recreation, containing a fair collection of birds and a few other animals. Admission 50 c. ; those who make a long stay at the Hague may subscribe. Concerts on Mon, and often Frid. evenings in summer, and on Sun.afternoons in winter ( adm . 1 fl.; restaurant). To the S. of the Zoological Garden is the Malieveld, the drill ing-ground of the garrison . Farther on begins the celebrated and beautiful * Park (het Bosch) , a plantation intersected by avenues in different directions, and about 11/2 M. in length . In the centre is a large garden belonging to the Witte or Litt ire Societeit, to which admission is granted only on introduction . On Sundays from 2 to - 18 *

276 Route 39 . SCHEVENINGEN. 3.30, and on Wednesdays from 7 to 9.30 o'clock, a band plays here and attracts numerous visitors. Near the road the forest is traversed by regular avenues of stately old trees , while the remoter parts are in their primitive condition . Comp. the small map on the Plan . Near the N.E. corner of the Park, about 11/2 M.from the Hague, is situated the Huis ten Bosch, i . e . the ' House in the Wood', a royal villa, erected in 1647 by Pieter Post for Princess Amalia of Solms, widow of Prince Frederick Henry of Orange (p. xxxii ). Vi sitors to the villa may make use of the tramway from the Plein to Bezuidenhout, the terminus of which is in the Laan van Nieuw Oosteinde (see Map of the Environs). Those who walk through the Bosch turn to the right at the end of the ornamental water and soon reach the gate to the grounds surrounding the villa. The INTERIOR is worthy of a visit. (Visitors ring at the door in the right wing ; fee 1 fl. for 1-3 pers., 2 A. for a larger party .) The Dining Room is embellished with grisailles by De Wit (1749) of Meleager , Atalanta, Venus, Adonis, and Genii, painted in imitation of bas-reliefs, and pro ducing an almost perfect illusion ; it also contains Chinese, Saxon ( Meissen ), and Delft porcelain . In the Chinese Room is some tapestry of rice -paper of the 18th century . The Japanese Room contains bright-coloured em broidery with birds and plants , presented to Prince William V. of Orange in 1795 , Japanese cabinets, etc. The chief attraction is the * Orange Saloon , an octagonal hall adorned with scenes from the life of Prince Frederick Henry, painted by artists of the School of Rubens (comp. Introd. , p. 1), and lighted partly bythe cupola above, and partly from the sides. The walls are about 50 ft. in height, the lower part being covered with canvas, while the upper part is of wood. The best of these paintings is that which covers the principal wall , by Jordaens, representing the triumph of the young prince over vice, sickness, and other enemies of youth . The others contain several bold and finely -conceived groups, but exhibit numerous traces of the inaccurate drawing of Rubens's school, while the general effect is far from pleasing. The following pleasant ExCURSION may be taken from the Hague (2-3 hrs. driving ). Along the Leyden road ( ' Straatweg naar Leiden ’; Pl . F, 4 ), through the Park , and then by the ‘Papenlaan' to Voorschoten ( p. 240), the Leidsche Dam , and Voorburg , near which is the popular resort of Wykerbrug, with a restaurant. Then back by the ' Laan van Nieuw - Oosteinde', to the S. of the Bosch. Another steam-tramway (p. 260) runs from the Hague to (25 min .) the new sea-bathing resort of Kyk duin, near the village of Loos duinen , 39. Scheveningen. The following conveyances ply between the Hague and Scheveningen, a distance of 21/2-3 M. 1. The STEAM TRAMWAY of the Dutch and Rhenish Railway ( Stoom Tramway der Nederl. Rhyn - Spoorweg Maatschappy), which starts from the Rhenish Station (Pl. F, 6, 5 ) every 3/4 hr. during the season , and also 1/2 hr. after the arrival of each train (for the passengers from Utrecht, Gouda, etc.). The station at Scheveningen is situated close to the German Protes tant Church , near the large Bath House. 2. STEAM TRAMWAY of the Dutch Railway ( Hollandsche Yzeren Spoor weg Maatschappy ), in 1/2 hr. , starting from the Dutch Station (Pl. D), 8 ; > "S GRAVENHAGE . m ?? 39. Ministerie v . Justitie D.E.5. 40 . v . Koloniën E.5. 41. v . Marine D.4 . 42. v . Oorlog E.5. 43 . v.Waterstaat, Handel C.4. Momimenten : 44. v.NeerlandsBevrijding 1813 D.2. 45. v.Koning Willem II 1.5 . 46. v.Prins Willem I E.5 . 47. v.PrinsWillem I (Ruiterstandb.) C.4 . 48. v.Hertog v . Saxen Weimar EA. 49. v.Spinoza C.6 . Musea : 50.Gemeente Museum E.4. 51.Meermanno Westreenianum F.4 . D.5 E.5 . 1. Badinrichting C.5.D.3 . 2. Bazar , Koninkl., (De Boer ) C.2. 3. Bibliotheek , Koninkl. E.4. 4. De Club E.4. 5. Diaconie Weeshuis B.C.7 . 6. Diligentia D.4. 7. Gasthuis B.6. 8. Gebouw van kunsten en Weten schappen F.5 . 9. Gerechtshof D.5 . 10. Geschutboordery F.3. 11. Geschutgieterij E.F.4 . 12. Gevangenpoort D.4 . 13. Gouvernement v.2 . Holland E.4. 14. H. GeestHofje C.6 . 15. Hooge Raad d. Nederlanden . 16. Kabinet van Couvée D.5 . 17. Goupil & Co. D.4. 18 . Jhr: Steengracht D.4. Kerken : 19. ApostolischeK. B.3 . 20. Bethlehems K. B.4. 21. Fransche K .. CD.4. 22. H.AntoniusenLodewijks K. F.5. 23. H.Jakobus K. D.3. 24. Hoogduitsche K. E.5 . 25. H.Theresia K. B.5 . 26. H.Willebrordus K. B.5. 27. Klooster K. 1.4. 28. Luthersche K. C.6 . 29. OnzeLieve Vrouwe K. A.3. 30. OudRoomsche K. C.4. 31. Remonstrantsche K. B.C.5 . 32. S ! Joseph K. 0.7. 33. Willems K. E.2 . 34. Leesurrichting C.4. 35.Manege of Rijschool . D.E.3 . 36Ministerie v . Binneni. Zaken D.5. 37 . v.Buitenl.Zaken D.5 38 . V. Financiën D.4. 53.Mauritshuis 54. Muzijkschool, Koninkl. 55. Paleis Prinses Hendrik 56 . Prins v . Oranje 57. Prins v . Wied 58. Politie 59. Post en Telegraaf 60. Ridderzaal 61. Rijks- Archief 62. Stadhuis 63. Staten - Generaal 64. Synagoge.,Israëlitische 65 . Port'geesche 66. Teeken Akademie 67. Tramweg - Station 68. Théatre 69. Vischmarkt 70. Vrijmetselaars Loge 71. Witte of Litteraire Societeit B.5. E.4 . D.4 . E.F.4 . C.5 . C.5 . 1.5 . E.5 . C.5 . D.5. C.6. EF.4. F.5 . D.7 . E.4. C.5 . E.5 . E.5. HaalscheANe Polla utsch hp ni role oo Beni ScheveningYoöl og Tuin , BODRUS Apmurer, moois - cod.suliyy Veld Mälie breed elsuo . r I AY Princesse terwe K Sumatta Str . porabu abusnooo,og Stra Bali Hoorn 2. Roos van SLaan Ever4 Tan . Str Paramaribo " 1:19 506 Lennon Rade Hooi ater Smid Straad Suriname еот --Bapusulan Vtecave Schoo7 Str. 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Kilom . 1:50.000 SCHEVENINGEN. 39. Route. 277 p . 259 ; in connection with the trains) and from the Anna - Paulowna - Straat. The station at Scheveningen lies at the S.E. end of the village , near the Roman Catholic Church. Fares on both lines, 25 or 15 c ., 10 tickets 2 or 1 fl.; tickets are obtained in the car. In returning, travellers may procure through railway -ticketse and book their luggage at Scheveningen. 3. TRAMWAY. There are two tramway-lines , both of which start from the Plein (Pl. E , 5 ), while one follows the old, and the other the new road ( see p. 278 ). The former is divided into five, the latter into four sections. Fare 5 c . per section . 4. Cabs. From the railway-stations at the Hague to Scheveningen, 1-2 pers. 11/2, 3-5 pers. 13/4 fl .; trunks 10 c. each. Comp. p . 260. Hotels. At the height of the season it is advisable to secure rooms in advance ; in June and Sept. charges are usually lower. * GRAND HÔTEL DES BAINS & CURHAUS,on the Dunes (see p . 279), R. from 2 fl., B. 80 C. , table d'hôte 21/2 fl . To the N. is the *HÔTEL D'ORANGE , a large house situated on the Dunes , R. from 21/2, D. 21/2 fl. Adjoining this hotel is the Pavilion, a building containing twelve distinct suites of furnished apartments for families, each of which is let for 1500-1800 A. for the season . To the S. of the Grand Hôtel des Bains is the HÔTEL DES GALERIES , no sea -view , with a restaurant, café, and shops on the ground- floor ; R. from 11/2 fl. (before 21st July from 14/4 fl.), extra bed 3/4-1 fl ., A. 25, L. 25 , B. 60 c., pens. 31/ 2-4, D. 2 fl. *HÔTEL GARNI, the property of a company, with about 190 rooms , R. from 1 fl., D. 2-24/2 fl., B. 70 c ., 'pen sion ' without room 4 fl. , good cuisine;*HÔTEL DEUTSCHMANN.. *HÔTEL RAUCH, R., L., & A. 2-81/2 fl., B.60, D. 2,pens. 5-8 fl.;Hôtel Zeerust R. 1-6 ' fl. (before and after the season somewhat cheaper), with terraces, on the Dunes, to the right and left at the end of the principal street of the village. There are also several villas on the Dunes, which are let to summer-visitors . Behind the Dunes, without a view of the sea : Hôtel CONTINENTAL, Nieuwe Badweg, 314 M. ( from the Hôtel des Bains, first class . To the S. of the Curhaus: Hôtel-RESTAUR. NELCK ; ALTEBURG ; Pension ; Schnitz LER , etc. Nearer the village are numerous hotel-pensions and furnished villas, rooms in which are cheaper than in the hotels on the beach. - In the village: HÔTEL -RESTAURANT ST. HUBERT, Nieuwe Badweg, R. 1-11 /2, D. 11/2, pens. 3-4 fl., unpretending ; BELVEDERE , with a café; * HÔTEL DE LA PROMENADE, the halfway point of the tramway - route, see p. 278 ; R. , L. , & A. 11/2-3, B. 3/4, D. 21/4, pens. from 51/2 fl. ; * BEAUSÉJOUR , Banka Straat, at the entrance of the Scheveningsche Boschjes. Most of the private lodgings are indifferently fitted up ; in engaging rooms it is ad visable to have a written agreement. On Sundays Scheveningen attracts crowds of Dutch visitors from all parts of the country, most of whom dine at the hotels . Baths. Bathing - coach with awning 1 fl . , without awning, generally used by gentlemen , 70c.; subscription for 20'baths with towels 12 or 8 fl.; small bathing-coach, which is conveyed to the water's edge only, with one towel , 20-30 c . , after 9 a.m. 30 c .; subscription for 20 baths 3, for the whole season 71/2 Ál.; fee 10 c. for each bath , or 1 fl. 20 c . for 20 baths. The custom of promiscuous bathing, as in Ostend, Blankenberghe, and elsewhere , has been lately introduced , but there are also separate bath ing- places for gentlemen and ladies. Tickets are procured at the office on the beach in front of the Bath House. On Sundays there is no bathing allowed after 2 p.m. Owing to the strong 'under - tow ' it is not advisable for swimmers to venture beyond the space marked off for bathers. Warm Baths of salt-water ( 65 c . and fee), vapour- baths, etc., at the Bath House, well fitted up (from 7 a.m.to 4 p.m.) . Visitors' Tax (not obligatory ): For the season 20 fl ., for members of families ' cartes secondaires at 6 fl, are also issued. Day-tickets 50 c., in the second half of July 75 c. , in Aug. 1 fl. The subscribers are admitted without charge to the dancing ‘ réunions' and to the ordinary concerts and theatrical perfomances, while for the extra entertainments they pay halt price . > 278 Route 39 . SCHEVENINGEN. . Physicians: Dr. Mess, villa on the Dunes, next to the Hôtel Garni ; Dr. Francken , at the Bath House ; Dr. van der Mandele, Dr. van der Sluys, both Prins Willemstraat. Post and Telegraph Office, Keizerstraat294 ; branch - office in the Cursaal . Donkeys. Per 1/2 hr. 20 c . , 1/2 day 1 0. 25 c.; with small carriage, per hr. 50 c ., ' /2day 28 .; carriage and pair of donkeys , per hr. 75 c. , 4/2day 21/211 . Boating, as at other Dutch watering -places, badly provided for. Tents (“pavillons") and chairs (“Windstoel”) may be hired on the beach . ' Le Petit Courrier and the official gazette ( published daily) contain a list of visitors. English Church at the Hague (p. 260 ). There are two roads between the Hague and Scheveningen : 1. The OLD ROAD, paved with ' klinkers' , constructed in the middle of the 17th century , leaves the town by the N.W. gate (Pl . C, 1), and is shaded by trees and provided with a tramway line. On the right, between the old road and the Canal , lie the Scheveningsche Boschjes, a park with numerous fine old oaks, affording beautiful walks. On the left is the château of Zorgvliet, once the residence of Cats , the Dutch statesman and poet (d . 1660), now the property of the Grand - Duchess of Saxe-Weimar. Farther on , we pass a row of villas, including the Hôtel de la Promenade (halfway house on the tramway - route ). Distance from the Scheve ningen Gate at the Hague to the beginning of the village 11/2 M. , to the beach 21/4 M. 2. The uninteresting and shadeless New Road leads direct from the N. end of the town (Pl . F, 1) to the Bath House, skirting the canal at first, and crossing it halfway. This is the route followed by the steam -tramway from the Rhenish station and by one of the ordinary tramways. On the Dunes to the right, in the distance, is the large building of the Hague Water Works (adm. Tues, and Thurs. 12-4 ; fine view ). Scheveningen, a clean fishing - village with 15,000 inhab. , con sists of neat brick houses , sheltered from the sea by a lofty dune. The late-Gothic church , consecrated in 1472, with its pointed spire , once stood in the middle of Scheveningen , but on 1st Nov. , 1570 , a spring-tide swallowed up half of the village , consisting of 125 houses , so that the church now stands at the W. end. As the ground rises gradually behind the village, no view is obtained of the sea until the top of the Dunes is reached . An undulating TERRACE , paved with bricks, extends along the top of the Dunes from the village to the Hôtel d'Orange (about 1 M.), forming an admirable promenade. Lower down, on the side next the sea, another paved road , completedin 1877, connects the village with the large Bath House. At the S.W. end of the Terrace are the Lighthouse ( Vuurtoren ; adm. 15 c.; fine view , best early in the morning or in the evening) and the Monument, an obelisk erected in 1865 to commemorate the return of William I , after the French occupation (p . xxxiv) . Farther on are numerous villas, the Grand Hôtel des Bains , and the other hotels mentioned above. A little inland lie the German Protestant Church, with two towers, LEYDEN. 40. Route. 279 sons. and the Sophie - Stichting, a marine hospital for children (open in summer only) . The large Bath House and Curhaus, or Grand Hôtel des Bains, is the great rallying - point of visitors. The handsome new building, erected in 1884-85 by the German architects Henkenhof and Ebert, burned down in 1886, and rebuilt since, is upwards of 550 yds. in length and is surrounded by spacious verandas . The richly adorned Cursaal, surmounted by a glass cupola, can accommodate 2500 per To the S. is the large café -restaurant De Seinpost, where a band plays daily. Scheveningen possesses numerous fishing - boats ( pinken ), the cargoes of which are sold by auction on the beach immediately on their arrival. The scene on such occasions is often very picturesque and amusing. The herring - fishery is also prosecuted with consid erable success, many of the ‘ pinken' occasionally venturing as far as the N. coast of Scotland . Scheveningen is now frequented by about 20,000 visitors an nually. The height of the season is from 15th July to 15th Sept. , before and after which charges are lowered . Scheveningen is re puted to be among the most expensive bathing resorts on the Con tinent. The sands are firm and smooth (bathing-places, see p . 277). A great advantage which Scheveningen possesses over the other watering-places on the N. Sea is the proximity of the Hague and the woods a little inland, which afford pleasant and shady walks. In 1673 Admiral de Ruyter defeated the united fleets of France and England off the coast near Scheveningen. 40. Leyden. Comp. the Plan, p . 284. Hotels. *HÔTEL DU LION D'OR (Pl. a ),*HÔTEL LEVEDAG (Pl. d) , in both R., L., & A. 13/4-23 /4 fl ., B. 50-80 c., D.21/4-21 / 2 fl.; HÔTEL Central, op posite the post-office, R. , L. , A., & F. 13/4 , D. 11/4 fi .; SOLEIL D'Or ( Pl. b ). All these are in the Breestraat. HÔTEL DE LA Poste, with café-restaurant, in the Aal-Markt (Pl . D , E , 3 ) ; Hôtel PLACE Roral, Noordeinde , R., L., A., & F. 13/4, D. 11/4 fl., well spoken of. Cafés-Restaurants. Zomerzorg, near the railway -station, with a pleas ant garden ; Café Suisse , Breestraat 84 ; Stadt Nürnberg, Breestraat 16 (good beer); Café Neuf, Breestraat 107, opposite the Hôtel de Ville . - * Rail . Restaurant, Tramways. From the station (Pl . B , 1 ) across the Beestenmarkt ( Pl. C, 2 ) and thence through the Breestraat to the Hoogewoerds Poort ( Pl. H, 5 ), 10 c . , small articles of luggage free . Steam Tramway to Haarlem and to Katwyk aan Zee (see p. 285 ), with a branch to Rynsburg and Noordwyk and another viâ Voorschoten ( branch to Wassenaar) and Voorburg to the Hague (pp . 258, 260 ). Steamboat to Katwyk, see p . 285 . Cab from the station to the town 60 c . , per hour 1 fl . Leyden, in the middle ages Leithen, one of the most ancient towns in Holland ( although probably not the Lugdunum Batavorum of the Romans) , is situated on the 80-called Old Rhine, the sluggish waters of which flow through the town in several canal-like arms. 280 Route 40. LEYDEN. Burg. The town contains 46,300 inhab. , but is sufficiently extensive to accommodate 100,000, a number it boasted of when at the height of its prosperity. In the 16th cent. Leyden sustained a terrible siege by the Spaniards, which lasted from Oct. 31st, 1573, to Mar. 24th, 1574, and then, after a short and partial relief by Prince Louis of Nassau, was continued as a blockade down to Oct. 3rd of the same year. William of Orange at last caused the S. dykes to be pierced , and the country being thus inundated , he relieved the besieged by ship . Leyden was the birthplace of several of the painters of the 16th and 17th centuries : Lucas var yden, Joris van Schooten , Jacob van Swanenburgh, the great Rembrandt van Ryn, Jan Steen , Gerard Dou , Gabriel Metsu , Jan van Goyen , Frans van Mieris, Peter Slingeland , etc. It possesses , however, but few specimens of their works. Leyden also became the centre of the Dutch textile industry, when the ‘ Yperlinge' (weavers from Ypres) settled here after the great war. The town still presents many picturesque mediæval features ( es pecially in the Rapenburg and Breestraat). The Morsch Gate (Pl. B, 2 ), surmounted by a dome, built by Willem van der Helm in 1669, is a relic of the old fortifications. The oldest edifice in Leyden is the Burg (Pl . E , 3, 4 ; adm. 10 c. ), situated on a mound of earth in the centre of the town. It is circular in form , and is undoubtedly of very ancient origin . The chroniclers connect it with Drusus and the Anglo-Saxon Hengist. It first ap pears in authentic history during the 10th century. The building has been badly restored and adorned with pinnacles. The top commands a good view of the town and neighbourhood, extending on a clear day to the sea. Near the Burg is situated the Church of St. Pancras, or Hoog landsche Kerk (Pl. 2 ; F, 4), a late - Gothic stone edifice erected on the site of an earlier building in the 15th cent., and recently re stored . It is a large basilica with nave and aisles , with a transept also flanked with aisles. The nave, which has reached neither its projected length nor its projected height, covered by a wooden roof of barrel- vaulting. The N. arm of the transept, the façade of which is richly decorated , is surmounted by singular-looking turrets . The spacious interior is supported by thirty - eight massive buttresses. By one of these is the insignificant monument of the burgomaster Van der Werff ( d. 1604 ), who in 1574 gallantly defended the town during the siege by the Spaniards. A few paces to the S.W. of the Burg is a bridge with a covered wooden portico built in 1825, and used as a Corn Exchange (Pl. 13 ; E, 4), leading to the Breedestraat ( ' Breestraat'), the principal street in Leyden, which, with its continuation the Hoogewoerd, intersects the whole town in the form of an S. In this street, on the right, rises the * Stadhuis (Pl. 20 ; E, 4), one of the most successful examples of the Dutch style of the close Museum of Antiquities. LEYDEN. 40. Route . 281 of the 16th cent. , with a lofty flight of steps. The picturesque broach - spire was added in 1577, and twenty years later the façade was completed by Lieven de Key. The latter did not reach its present extent (85 yds . ) until the 17-18th centuries. The in terior is still as it was in the 15th cent. , though the rooms appear modernized . In the Archive Room is some good carved panelling of 1607. Over the side - entrance on the N. is the following inscription : nae s Warte h Vnger- noot gebraCht had tot de doot bInaest zes d VIzent Mens Chen , aLs’t god den heer Verdroot gaf hI Vns Weder broot, 20 VeeL WI CVnsten Wens Chen' (i.e. literally : When the black famine had brought to the death nearly six thousand persons, then God the Lord repented of it, and gave us bread again as much as we could wish ). This inscription, which refers to the siege of 1574 , is a chronogram , the capitals ( among which W is reckoned as two V's) recording the date, and the 131 letters the number of days during which the siege lasted . Near the Post Office is the handsome building of the Minerva Club, to which most of the students belong. Opposite is the Rhynlandhuis, built by Lieven de Key in 1596, and restored in 1870. A little nearer the Old Rhine is the City Weigh -house and Butter market in the Aalmarkt, built in 1658 by Pieter Post. The sculp tures are by R. Verhulst. At the W. end of the Breestraat is the * Museum of Antiquities, or Museum van Oudheden (Pl. 16 ; C, 3), open daily from 10 ( Sun. 12.30) to 4 o'clock . Strangers may obtain admission at other times on application. It occupies eleven rooms, and is most valuable in the Egyptian department. Some of the Greek sculptures are also very important. GROUND FLOOR. Room I. (r. ) . Indian Idols. Brahma, the 'Creator , Vishnu withthe trunk of an elephant, the ‘ Preserver ', Shiva, the ' Destroyer, resting onskulls, in numerous examples ofvarious sizes (sun, water, and fire ; or power, wisdom and justice; or the past, the present, and the future; i. e. the Indian Trinity , often represented as a body with three heads); an idol of lava in the form of a bull ; relics from Carthage ; custo dian of a temple, a quaint figure with a sword. Rooms II, ill. Roman and Greek Antiquities. In R. II., Roman statues and busts : 76. Trajan ; 75. Tiberius ; 129. Bust of Hadrian. R. III. In the middle, on a circular altar with reliefs , * 103. Colossal Head of Dionysus, much injured. By the right wall : * 52. Statue of Zeus, well preserved and of unusual type. By the window : 62. Youthful Pan. Ad jacent, Votive Relief to Æsculapius and Hygieia, of good Greek workman ship . Left wall : Statue of Apollo, freely restored (head, perhaps, of a Venus?). Numerous inscriptions. High up, 1,152. HeadofApollo, an archaic Greek work much mutilated. Room IV. Egyptian Sculptures. Sarcophagi with figures of the dead and hieroglyphic inscriptions ; Greek tomb- inscriptions from Egypt, mostly of the Christian period. Funereal pyramid of a royal secretary; kneeling statues from tombs. Slabs with reliefs and inscriptions, some with well preserved colouring (No. 26 ). In the entrance -wall is a recess fitted up inthe style ofan Egyptian tomb. - The end of the room is partitioned off by four pillars and a gate from the entrance to an Egyptian tomb. Large niche in granite, presented to a temple byKing Amasis in the 6th cent. before Christ. Relief from the grave of King Horus (15th cent. B. C.), with captives (Jews? ). 282 Route 40. LEYDEN. Natural History Museum . ។ First Floor. Room I, II, III. Smaller Egyptian Antiquities. R. I. Mummies, ornaments, flowers ; statuettes in wood, bronze, and porcelain . Papyrus scrolls in hieroglyphic, hieratic, and Greek text. RR. II, III. Egyptian gems, statuettes, jewels, scarabæi, bronzes, vessels in terracotta and alabaster, bread found with mummies, etc. Rooms IV and V , which contain Greek and Roman Antiquities, are fitted up in imitation of the Roman columbaria or grave- chambers for funereal urns. In R. IV. are funereal urns and inscriptions, and an Early Christian Sarcophagus , with reliefs. The next room contains Etruscan Cists , with figures of the deceased and reliefs ( (to the left, No. 400, Ulysses and the Cyclops ). Here are also several admirable Greek Funereal Mon uments , some of them of the classic period. The finest is the ** Relief of Archestrate, daughter of Alexos, from Sunium, one of the best Attic monuments of the kind, dating from the 4th cent. B. C. SECOND FLOOR. Casts from antique sculptures and from the cameos at the Hague (p . 274 ) ; Greek, Roman , and Etruscan bronzes, weapons, hel mets; Greek and Roman vases in the ancient and more modern style ; terracotta vessels ; models of ancient tombs. THIRD FLOOR. Cork models of ancient structures ; models of lake dwellings in the Lake of Zürich ; model of a “giant's grave' near Assen ( p. 349 ) ; Teutonic idols and relics from the same district. The Natural History Museum (Pl. 15 ; C , D , 4 ), Rapen burg 69, is open on Tues. , Thurs. , and Sat., 12-4. The collection is particularly well supplied with specimens of the products of China, Japan, British India, Arabia , and Persia. The cabinet of stuffed birds includes the collection of M. Temminck (d. 1858), one of the greatest of European ornithologists. The cabinet of Comparative Anatomy is also very complete. The Law Courts, also in the Rapenburg, contain a collection of casts (the statues found at Olympia, etc. ). In the neighbourhood are some buildings of importance in the literary history of Holland : the small Bibliotheca Thysiana (1655) on the Rapenburg; the Tribunal (1655), which belonged to the 'Gravensteen', the prison of the Dutch counts, and the Hofje van Broeckhoven (1640), a home for old men, both on the Papengracht. Opposite the Gravensteen is the picturesque Gymnasium , built in 1599 by Lieven de Key. The Church of St. Peter (Pl. 1 ; D, 4) , erected in 1315 , with double aisles, is the largest church at Leyden, and the last resting place of many distinguished men . The lofty W. tower fell in 1512. The monument of the celebrated physician Boerhaave ( d . 1738) bears the modest inscription : ' Salutifero Boerhavii genio sacrum '. Other mon uments record the names of Dodonaeus, Spanheim , Meerman , Clusius, Scaliger, and other Dutch savants . The inscription on that of Prof. Luzac states that he perished in the explosion of 1807 (p. 284 ). The monument of Joh. van Kerkhove ( d. 1660) is by R. Verhulst. The handsome pulpit and the choir- screen with its rich balustrade and carved frieze in the early Renaissance style deserve notice. A house in the Klok - Steeg (No. 21 ), immediately adjoining the Pieters-Kerk -Plein (Pl. D , 4 ), bears an inscription to the effect that John Robinson, the leader of the first Puritan party banished from England, lived , taught , and died here (1611-25). The present house, however, was not built till 1683. According to a popular tradition, Prince William of Orange, a 2 University. LEYDEN. 40. Route. 283 after the siege of 1574, offered to reward the citizens for their gallant conduct in the defence by exempting them from the pay ment of taxes for a certain number of years , or by the establish ment of a university in their city . The latter alternative is said to have been preferred, and theprince accordingly founded a High School, or University, in 1575. Its fame soon extended to every part of Europe. Hugo Grotius , Scaliger, and Cartesius ( Descartes ), the greatest scholars of their age , Salmasius, Boerhave , Wyttenbach, and others resided and wrote here , and Arminius and Gomar, the founders of the sects named after them (p. 378) , were professors at the university. Lord Stair (d . 1695) , the celebrated Scottish jurist, spent several years in exile at Leyden , whence he accompanied his future sovereign William of Orange to Great Britain in 1688. Leyden still enjoys a high reputation as a seat of learning, especially as a school of medicine and natural science, owing to the very extensive collections which it possesses. Most of the professors (46, students 800) teach at their private residences (some of them still in Latin) ; a few only deliver lectures in the university - building itself ( Academy, Pl. 8 ; 0, 5, E, 5) . The old building was the chapel of a Jacobin nunnery . In the Aula or hall is the elaborate tombstone of Jan van Adrichem, by the Frisian sculptor Vincent Lucas ( 1556). The staircase to the Carcer or prison is ornamented with designs by Jhr . Victor de Stuers. The hall of the Senate is adorned with portraits of prominent professors, from Scaliger down to those last deceased. Niebuhr in his Roman History expresses his opinion that no locality in Europe is so memorable in the history of science as this venerable hall. The Library (Pl . 26 ; D, 5) , the oldest and richest in Holland, contains upwards of 300,000 vols . and 5600 valuable MSS. Considerable sums of money have recently been granted for the erection of new buildings and the improvement of the collections. The Botanic Garden ( Pl. C, 5) , open to the public daily till 1 o'clock , was founded in the 16th century. It is arranged accord ing to the systems of Linné and Jussieu, and kept in excellent order. The collection of exotics, chiefly from the E. Indies , is very fine. The hot- houses contain examples of the cinnamon - tree, the quinine tree, the coffee -plant, the cotton-tree, the mahogany-tree, the New Zealand flax-plant, the papyrus -tree, the bamboo, the sago- shrub , the camphor-tree, the ' fly -catcher', the arrowroot-plant, the tama rind-shrub , palms, etc. - The Observatory ( Pl. 17), which enjoys a considerable reputation, is situated close to the Botanic Garden . In the Hoogewoerd, the E. prolongation of the Breestraat, No. 108 , is the Ethnographical Museum (Pl. 14 ; G, 5) , an extensive and interesting collection of the products of the Southern Ocean, Australia, andthe Dutch colonies (open on Mon. & Frid. , 12-4 ). Some Indian houses and a model of an Indian village are exhibited in the Kaiserstraat, near theObservatory ( adm. in summer, 12-4 ), American, African, and East Indian collections are at Heerengracht 8. > The 284 Route 40. LEYDEN . The MunicipalMuseum (Pl. 25 ; D, 2 ), in the Lakenhal ('cloth hall' , erected in 1640 by the architect S'Gravezande), Oude Singel 32, contains a multifarious collection of antiquities connected with Leyden, and also a few interesting pictures, most of which were brought from the Stadhuis. It is open daily, 10-4, adm. 10 c.; Sundays, and 3rd Oct. , the anniversary of the raising of the siege in 1574, 12-4, free. Catalogue 50 c. VESTIBULE . Stained glass of the 16th century, representing counts and countesses of Holland ( in brown monochrome). FIRST FLOOR. In the middle of the large hall two glass -cases, con taining (left) gold and silver plate belonging to the municipality, of the 17th and 18th cent., and (right) glass of the same period, relics of the siege, coins , medals. The walls are hung with numerous portraits and " Regent' or corporation pictures. To the right, on the end-wall: 11. Gov. Flinck , Portrait of a man ; to the right of it, 7. Adr. Brouwer, Rustic scene; left, Dom . van Tol ( pupil of Dou ), Woman baking pancakes, and four boys. To the left : 143. Ūnknown Painter, Regent-piece of 1618. The tapestry opposite the entrance (No. 166) , representing the relief of Leyden , was executed in 1587. The contents of the side-rooms are similar. UPPER Floor, The pictures here , chiefly arquebusier and regent pieces, are more interesting and important. On the principal wall, facing the entrance : Van Brée (p . 140) , Burgomaster van der Werff offering his body to the starving citizens, who demand the surrender of the town or the satisfaction of their hunger, a large but mediocre work . To the left and right aresix pictures of arquebusiers (Nos. 40, 37, 34, 38 , 36 , 39), painted in 1626 and 1628 by Joris van Schooten (b . at Leyden in 1587) ; the execution is good and the heads are full of expression, but there is no attempt at artistic grouping. On the end-wall to the left : 32. Van Schooten , Representation of the misery that reigned during the siege ; 71. Sortie ; 70. Peter van Veen ( 1570-1639, Leyden ) , Arrival of the Water Gueux; Medallion -portrait of Burgomaster Van der Werff, in terracotta (17th cent. ). On the end-wall to the right: 17. Lucas van Leyden, Last Judgment, the only authenticated large painting by this artist. To the right and left, Cornelis Engelbertsz, 9. Crucifixion with numerous figures, and wings representing Abraham's Sacrifice and the Miracle of the Bra zen Serpent , 10. Pietà, with six scenes from the life of Christ. The small adjacent room contains five singular pictures by Is . Claesz. van Swanenburgh (d. 1614 ), father of Rembrandt's master, Jac. Isaacsz . van Swanenburgh, representing the old cloth manufactures of Leyden and the advent of Flemish cloth -makers. — The rooms adjoining on the other side contain a collection of old weapons and standards. The promenades near the Rynsburg Gate (Pl. C, 1 ), by which we enter the town from the railway - station , are adorned with a statue of Herman Boerhaave (Pl . 24 ; see p. 282), modelled by Strackée. Beyond it is the Academic Hospital, and, in the distance, the Mili tary Hospital. - On the Galgewater (P1. B, C, 3) is the Kweekschool voor de Zeevaart , or seamen's training school. The open spaces on bothsides of the Steenschuur Canal (Pl. E, 5) were formerly covered with houses and owe their present appearance to an appalling explosion of gunpowder, which took place in 1807. The space on the N. bank is now partly occupied by buildings connected with the university (Pl. 8 ), while that on the 8. , which is still known as the ' Groote Ruine', is laid out as a pleasure-ground. The latter also contains a monument to Burgomaster van der Werff ( p . 280) , erected in 1884. $ B Exerzitie Rotterdam Vela Sta con hindisuter Bolwers Hôtels . a Verhaaf de Goude Lecar . 1.3 b.De Zon E. g. Logement den Burg E. d .Leredag 1.4 e . Hôtel de la Poste D.E.3 . Lammermkt. AST Head The Beesten UTAS Strada Marta Kerken . 1.5. Pieterskerk .D . 2.5. Pankras (HooglandscheKerk F4, 3. MareKerk E.23 4.Waard of Oosters Kerk G.3.4 5.Remonstrantsche Kerk F1.4 . 6.R.K.Lieve Vrouwe Kerk E.33 7 St Petrusk E. THEO Narren Morschnoopt 101 YOG Wilaartenstradio ZoneGate car's rare LTZ Βοσης GALGISVATER Queegegaogde kostwa mart BOET35 denanmd NOOT Contae NO Ripen RIJN 20 raatweg naar 149 wa elem Tom 11 inna Tourite actenosta .E.4 . Openbare Gebouwen , 8.Academiegebouwen . .C.5.E.5 . 9.De Burgt E.3.4 . 10.Concertzaal D.3 . 11.De Doeler C.4 . 12.Gemeenlandshuis van RijudandD.3.4 . 13.Korenbeurs en Brug 14.Museum ,hetEthnografische . 6.5 . 15 . vanNetratrliğjkHist . . C.4 . 16.- 1 van Oudheden CD.3 . 17.Observatorion , C.5.6 . 5 18.Postkantoor D.3 . 19.Schaarburg 1.2 . 20.Stadharis E.4 . 21.hon der Akademie C.5 . 22.Ziekenlaas, Akad . B.C.2 . 23.Zomer -Societeit C.2 . 24.Boarhare Monument C.2 . 25.LakenhalMuseum ) D.2 . 26.Bibliotheek 27.Kweekschool voor Zeer.. B.3 . 6 28.Minerva Sosieteit Waliebaan . 1.5 . Tige . D.3 . Tramlijn A В. C ogr . Anstalt von 50 Echelle 1 : 10.900 100 o 100 T н STA POLDER LEIDEN. Papegaais Balwerk tegrariants Gaz Arike Bolwenk Begraafplaats Leran Oren Paarde est ZenPlay inander Tan ZR Cath Begraadsblaas BOCA Koal Gracht wate Monet Test Aartapperstar Herren Grachi DUDE Uude RUN Haven KnGracht VIENU HEID Kalver Mkt. Tamstraat 01 Gracht Gracht ca RICT |_Gracht STRAAT wong buspunt Lange Nieu אישתStr Wurmoes M. voor sug olwer ! Bypleat iegos hot sa boer pewa Markt his Middelste Biterste Cerovst testo UTAT obumyr Oran Waard Stu ARROW ersta Pong Sleeg RAN EG Steen CITпив Sortel Steel TOOVADSTE ndan Exercitie ENTET Tev Vela Groote ruine ) Garen HORN דור VICENT Tonige took of weitoe lidhuren Singet eur Korte Gracht Zand Velden Sigeligt Troemme E F G н 200 300 400 Nederlandsche Ellen (Mètres ). Wagner u.Debes,Leipzies Traus Stars Tramlijn Stads Armenhuuts Plein a Rozenhage HAARLEM . ΓιοΡΡΕΣ 300 1 : 13.500 100 300 Meter Helder ennemer Plein Siation Stations Plem Zandvoort Stat.Haarlem Bolwerk ui Langendence fermerda Rotterdam tange Heer en staat n 110 Garenkokers Yaart elmarkt Harmer Jansen Lazerne Vezd Sin e Rabriek Ridderir wwe tracht uden Ion Kinderlouis yo image Smer 10 route St . Hooge Züt Str . Str . Ια Es freuta Raaks Groyote Markt 2 - Vaccines uonker Spaarne ATLET Porder Anegang Oude Gracia von Kaasmarkt RUCTIT Botermarkt Gedempte Oude U a rnext Turfmarkt 15 lexander Gacht he Wilsons raad Plein W aa Ampet Gasthuis Tosire cast Rozenprieel Loze Pad 16 Houtplei Krelage's Tuin 1.3 1.Bisschopelijk -Museum .B.2. 2.Coster's standbeeld B.4 3. Gouvernement .C.3. 4. Hofje van Beeresteijn .C.2. Kerken : 5. Groote Kerk B.C.4 . 6. Nieuwe Kerk 7. Janskerk B.C.3. 8. Roomsch -Katholieke Kerk .C.3.7| 9. Postkantoor . 3.3 10. Schouwburg (Nieuwe ). .C.2 11. Stadhuis B.4 . 12. Teijler's Museum C.4. 13. Vleeschhal B.4 . 14. NieuweKathoz.Kerk C.5. Wagner & Debes, Leipu . iereren Dref Ilein Lolapar Paviljoen ( Muscuin ) Rust Geograph Anstalt von KATWYK . 40. Route. 285 FROM LEYDEN TO NOORDWYK AAN ZEE, 6 M. , steam -tramway, starting from the railway - station , several times daily, viâ Rynsburg (see below) , in 1 hr. (fare 15 c. ). Noordwyk aan Zee ( * Hôtel Huis ter Duin, suitable for a prolonged stay , R. 11/2-9 fl., pens. from 3 fl. 60 с. , R. extra ) is the most prettily situated watering-place on the Dutch coast, and has numerous German visitors. FROM LEYDEN TO KATWYK AAN ZEE , 6 M., steam -tramway, starting from the railway - station , 16 times daily in summer, in 40min.; steamer from the Beestenmarkt bridge (Pl . C, 2 ), several times daily in 1-11/2 hr. ( fares 35 or 15 c.) . – The road passes Endegeest, a country- house with pleasant grounds, which was the residence from 1630 to 1649 of Descartes ( Cartesius), who wrote his chief mathematical and philosophical works here . Farther on are Rynsburg and Katwyk Binnen , with interesting monuments in their churches. Katwyk aan Zee (* Groot Badhôtel, * Hôtel du Rhin, Hôtel- Pen sion van Tellegen , * Hôtel de Zwaan, all on the Dunes, villas and private lodgings also obtainable) is a popular Dutch watering- place (5000 inhab. ) , plain but not cheap , near the mouth of a canal closed with huge gates, which assists the Rhine to empty itself into the sea . The mouth of the Rhine was completely obstructed by sand in con sequence of a hurricane in the year 839 , and from that period down to 1807 its waters formed a vast swamp, which is now almost tirely drained ( p. 258 ). In 1807 a large canal was constructed , with three locks, the first of which has two, the second four, and that next to the sea five pairs of gates . During high tide the gates are closed in order to exclude the water, which rises to the height of 12 ft. on the outside, while the level of the canal on the inside is much lower. At low tide the gates are opened for 5-6 hours in order to permit the accumulated waters of the Rhine to escape, and the masses of sand thrown up by the sea are thus again washed away. It is computed that 100,000 cubic ft. of water issue from the gates per second. In stormy weather, when the wind blows towards the land, the tide does not fall sufficiently to admit of the gates being opened. The dykes constructed at the entrance to the canal and on the sea - shore are of most imposing dimensions. The founda tions consist of piles driven into the loose sand, upon which a massive superstructure of masonry is placed. These magnificentworks, undertaken during the reign of King LouisNapoleon by the engineer M. Conrad (p. 287), are the finestof the kind in Europe, and have recently been strengthened in consequence of an outlet of the Haarlemmer Meer having been conducted to this point. The neighbouring kilns convert the heaps of shells thrown up by the sea into lime, whichis used in the construction of the dykes . en 41. Haarlem . Hotels. HÔTELFÜNCKLER ( Pl. a ; B ,3 ), in the Kruisstraat, 1/4 M.from the station, R. & A. 1 fl. 75, L. 30 c., D. 21/2 fl.; GOUDEN LEEUW ( Pl. c, B 2 ; Lion d'Or ), in the same street, a little nearer the station ; LEEUWERIK (Pl. b ; B , 3 ), a few paces beyond the Hôtel Fünckler, commercial, R. , L., & A. 1 fl. 75 C., B. 3/4, D. incl. wine 21/4 fl., well spoken of. - HÔTEL VAN DEN BERG and 'T WAPEN VAN AMSTERDAM , outside the town , near the Park, are two very good houses for a prolonged stay, R. & B. 2 fl., D. 2 fl., A. 50, L. 25 c . Restaurants. Brinkmann's Café- Restaurant, Groote Markt 11 , well spoken of ; Grand Café * Rail. - Restaurant Neuf, Groote Houtstraat 176. Restaurant. 286 Route 41 . HAARLEM. Meat Market. - > Tramway from the station through the Kruisweg and the Kruisstraat, past the Town Hall (p. 287 ), and through the Groote Houtstraat, to the Pavilion (p . 290 ) ; fare 10 c . Steam Tramway to Leyden, starting from the Park ( p. 290). Cabs. With one horse : from the station to the town with 56lbs. of luggage 60 c.; extra luggage, 20 c . per 561bs .; per hour, in the town 1 fl ., outside the town 11/2 fl. Haarlem , with 50,000 inhab . , the seat of the governor of the province of N. Holland, one of the cleanest and most attractive towns in Holland , and possessing several thriving manufactories, lies on the Spaarne, which flows through the town in a curve. The town is surrounded by well- kept gardens and promenades , laid out partly on the site of the old ramparts. The quaint old houses of brick and hewn stone offer much to interest the student of architecture. Hofjes (p. xxviii) are specially numerous in Haarlem . Haarlem was for a long period the residence of the Counts of Holland. Like Leyden , it sustained a most calamitous siege during the War of Independence, and was taken, after a resistance of seven months (1572-73) , by the Spaniards under Frederick of Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva. The defence , though ineffectual, was most heroic, and even the women, led by Kenau Simons Hasselaar, took a share in it. Upwards of 10,000 of the inhabitants perished on this occasion , and the commandant, the Protestant clergy, and 2000 of the townspeople were executed by order of their conqueror. Four years later the Spaniards were again expelled. The town attained the height of its prosperity in the 17th cent., when its school of art was also of some importance. Hend. Goltzius , Frans Hals, Jacob Ruysdael, Everdingen, Wouverman, Adr. and Is. van Ostade, and other painters dwelt here at that period ; and at the same time there flourished a school of architecture, founded by Lieven de Key (d. 1627) , the city-mason of Haarlem . The Kruisweg and its prolongation, the Kruisstraat, lead from the station to the ( 1/2 M. ) chief market- place. On the left, half way ( Kruisweg 65 ), is the Episcopal Museum (Pl . 1 ; B, 2) , a col lection of Dutch ecclesiastical antiquities, which is however much inferior to that of Utrecht. Admission Mon. to Frid. (holidays excepted) 10-5 o'clock, 25 c. ; catalogue 25 c . In the middle of the town is the GROOTE MARKT ( Pl. B, C, 4) , in which stand the Groote Kerk , the Stadhuis , and the *Meat Market ( P1. 13 ; B , 4 ), ' erected by Lieven de Key in 1602-3 , the quaintest brick and stone building in the country , perhaps even of the entire N. Renaissance , and artistically as interesting as the finest corporation - painting of a Frans Hals. Opposite , at the corner of the Smede-Str . , is the Old Town Hall, now a barrack , said to be older than the Meat Market, and restored about 1650. The Groote Kerk (St. Bavo ; Pl . 5 ; B, C, 4) is an imposing and lofty cruciform church , erected at the close of the 15th century, with a tower 255 ft. high , completed in 1519. A thorough re storation of the edifice has been in progress for several years . Town Hall. HAARLEM. 41. Route. 287

• INTERIOR (sacristan's house on the S. side of the choir) . The vaulting rests on twenty-eight columns, on which decorative paintings of the end of the 16th cent. have lately been brought to light. The nave and choir were apparently meant to be covered by stone vaulting, but are provided merely with a cedar-wood roof of cross -vaulting, dating from 1530. The roof above the intersection of the nave and transept is , however, of stone.

The choir - stalls are fine, and also the late- Gothicbrazen screen separating the choir from the nave , which was erected in 1510 by Diderik Sybrands zoon of Malines and is adorned with the arms of various donors. By one of the pillars, to theright in the choir, is a monument to the memory of Conrad ( d. 1808 ), the engineer who constructed the locks of Katwyk (p. 285 ) , and his coadjutor Brunings (d. 1805 ). The small models of ships suspended from the adjoining arch commemorate the 15th Crusade, under Count William I. of Holland. They date from 1668 , the originals having fallen into decay. By the choir is the tomb of Bilderdyk, the poet (d. 1831). The pulpit in carved wood is Gothic ( 1432), while'its hand some brass railings belong to the 18th century. A cannon -ball in the wall is a reminiscence of the Spanish siege. The pleasing group in marble below the organ , by Xavery, represents ecclesiastical poetry and music, expressing their gratitude to Haarlem for the erection of the organ. The stained glass in the nave is modern ; the chandeliers are after 16th cent. patterns. The * Organ, constructed in 1735-38 by Christ. Müller, and thoroughly restored in 1868, was long considered the largest and most powerful in the world, and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in existence. It possesses 4keyboards , 64 stops, and 5000 pipes , the largest of which is 15 inches in diameter and 32 ft. long. Public recitals take place on Tues days from 1 to 2 p . m. and on Thursdays from 2 to 3 p. m.; at other times the organist may be engaged to play for a fee of 13 11., which admits one or more persons . In the large market- place in front of the church rises a bronze Statue of Coster (Pl. 2; B, 4 ), the alleged inventor of printing, designed by Royer, and erected in 1856. The controversy as to whether Coster or Gutenberg was the real inventor of printing may now be considered definitely settled in favour of the latter. Recent investigations in the town records have, indeed, proved that a certain Laurenz Janszoon Coster lived at Haarlem in 1451-55 as a wine-dealer and tavern -keeper, and that he left the town in 1483 ; but no mention has been found of any printing-office in his possession. In any case, the works printed by this Coster, if such ever existed, cannot go back so far as 1454 (the oldest date of the Mayence printer), since the story of Coster, which came into vogue about 1560, expressly states that hewas a grandfather when he made his first attempts. No works printed at Haarlem are known with a date either before or shortly after 1454. It is , however, certain that Haarlem was the first town in Holland at which printing was practised. Opposite the principal façade of the Groote Kerk rises the Town Hall (Pl . 11;3 B, 4) , originally a palace of the counts of Holland, but remodelled in 1633, when also the wing in the Zyl straat was added. The * Museum here is open daily 10-4, in winter 10-3 (adm. 25 c.; on Sun. 12-3, gratis ; catalogue 30 c. ). It con tains a small but valuable picture-gallery, the only one where it is possible for the travellerto become thoroughly acquainted with the jovial Frans Hals, the greatest colourist of the Dutch painters next to Rembrandt. He is represented here by eight large pictures, painted at different stages of his career. The other pictures in the collection possess considerable historical interest. On entering the building from the market- place we ascend the 288 Route 41 . HAARLEM. Museum . staircase on the left, and reach a vestibule , the beams of which date from the 13th cent.; on the walls are some portraits and coats of- arms of Counts and Countesses of Holland , and also a modern picture of the Defence of Haarlem (p. 286 ). We ring the bell in the right corner. Room I. contains nothing of importance. Room II. To the left, 192. A. Willaerts, Naval battle off Gibraltar in 1607 ; to the right , 183. Vroom , Samesubject; 30. Corn. Corneliszoon, Corpo ration -banquet in 1599. Above, on the staircase, 144. Pot, Apo theosis of Prince William . In the passage , to the right , 155. J. van Scorel, Adam and Eve; 61. F. P. de Grebber, Corporation banquet in 1610 ; 66. Pieter de Grebber (son of the last ), Emp. Fred erick Barbarossa granting the city of Haarlem its coat - of - arms in the presence of the Patriarch of Jerusalem (painted in 1630 ). PRINCIPAL Room. The whole of the left wall is occupied by the ** Corporation and Regent Pieces of Frans Hals, arranged in chro nological order. The first, No. 71 , representing a Banquet of the officers of the ' St. Jorisdoele' , or Arquebusiers of St. George, was painted in 1616, in his thirtieth year, and is distinguished by the depth and vigour of its colouring, in which it surpasses even his later works. No. 72 , the same subject, with different portraits, and No. 73 , the Banquet of the officers of the Arquebusiers of St. Andrew ( " Cloveniers Doele'), were painted in 1627. His best period was probably about 1630, when he painted his finest work, No. 74 , representing an Assembly of the officers of the Arque busiers of St. Andrew , with fourteen life - size figures. Next in order of time are : 75, Officers and sergeants of the Arquebusiers of St. George, 1639 ; and 76, The governors of the Elizabeth Hospital, 1641 , which savours strongly of Rembrandt's style. Then, after a long interval ,which the biography of the master has not explained, at the age of 80, he painted Nos. 77, 78, The governors and lady managers of the hospital for old men and women, both in 1664. Among the other paintings in this room are : Jan de Bray, 18. Lady-managers of the Lepers' Hospital in 1667, 19. Christ blessing children ; 158. Soutman, Corporation - piece of 1642 ; 20. Jan de Bray, King Zaleucus sacrifices one of his eyes in order to ransom his son (1676) ; 159. Soutman, Corporation-piece of 1644; *175. Ver spronck , Lady-managers of the Hospital of the Holy Ghost ; 27. Corn. Corneliszoon, Corporation - banquet of 1583 ; 21. Jan de Bray, Apotheosis of Prince Frederick Henry (1681); 104. Corn . Holsteyn , Parable of the Labourers in the Vineyard (1647) . -On the wall to the right of the entrance : 62. F. P. de Grebber, Corporation -piece of 1619; * 96. H. Gzn. Pot, Corporation - piece of 1630. Room IV . To the right, 89. Maerten van Heemskerck , St. Luke painting the Madonna; * 15 , *16 . Jan de Bray, Governors (1663) and Lady -managers ( 1664 ) of the Orphanage; between these, 181. Vroom , Earl of Leicester landing at Flushing in 1586 ( painted Museum . HAARLEM. 41. Route. 289 7 in 1623) ; 1. Pieter Piertersen, Shadrach , Meshech, and Abednego in the fiery furnace (1575) ; 93. Heemskerck, Ecce Homo ( 1559 ); 184. Vroom , View of Haarlem ; 26. A. Brouwer, Smokers ; 116. Pieter Lastman (teacher of Rembrandt), Nativity . 9. J. Berck Heyde, Studio of Frans Hals: about twenty young painters are sitting round a table and drawing from nature , while Frans Hals stands near the door talking to Phil . Wouverman, who has paid him a visit . 24. Pieter Brueghel the Younger, Flemish proverbs ; 151. Suenredam, The Nieuwe Kerk atHaarlem . No number, J. W. de Wet, Healing of the sick man at the Pool of Bethesda. This room also contains a number of specimens of old printing, particularly the Spiegel onzer behoudenis' , on which the supporters of Coster (p . 287) specially grounded their claims. Room V. ( “Fabricius Room' ) , containing a collection of family portraits and other paintings bequeathed to the town in 1883 by Baron J.C. W.Fabricius. To the left : no number, Mierevelt, Por trait ; no number, Verspronck, Two portraits; *161 . Terburg, Fa mily -group. To the right: 170, 171. Verspronck , Two portraits (1637) ; 177. Victors ( pupil of Rembrandt) , Portrait of a burgo master of Amsterdam ( 1661); *79 , * 80 . Frans Hals, Portraits of Albert and Cornelia van Nierop ( 1631 ) ; * 164. A. van de Velde, Landscape; *6. G. Berck -Heyde, The town - hall of Haarlem ( 1671) ; no number , J. Molenaer, Rustic wedding. At the entrance is a collection of about 30 silhouettes . The attendant also shows a silver-gilt goblet, presented to Arent Meindertsz Fabricius by the Estates of Holland and W. Friesland , in recognition of his services at the siege of Ostend in 1603 ; and a collection of ANTIQUITIES relating to Haarlem, weapons, glasses , and instruments of torture. The beautiful *Goblet of St. Martin , executed in 1604 for the guild of brewers, who paid 360 fl. for it , deserves special attention. The cover was modelled by Hendrik de Keyser , and the medallions by Ernst Janszoon van Vianen from designs by Hendr. Goltzius. The Town Library (entrance in the Prinsenhof, behind the town - hall; admission on Wed. & Sat. , 2-4) contains a valuable collection of books and manuscripts relating to the history of the Netherlands. Teyler's Museum ( Pl . 12 ; C, 4) , was founded in consequence of a bequest of Peter Teyler van der Hulst (d . 1778) , a wealthy Haarlem merchant, who left half of his property to be devoted to the promotion of science, and the other half to the poor. The collec tions are open to visitors in summer from Monday to Friday (festivals excepted) from 11 to 3, and the library on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 1 to 4 o'clock (25 c . ) . The old build ing in the Damstraat has been lately enlarged by a handsome wing in the Renaissance style , erected on the side next the Spaarne from the designs of Christian Ulrich of Vienna. The Museum includes BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 19 290 Route 41 . HAARLEM . Industrial Museum . a Physical Cabinet with collections of chemical , optical, hydraulic, and other instruments , and the most powerful electric batteries in Europe; a Geological Cabinet, with minerals and fossils ( including a fossil plesiosaurus) ; a Collection of Pictures, consisting of upwards of 80 modern pictures (by Eeckhout, Schelfhout, Koekkoek, Schotel, Verveer, J. Koster, Ten Kate, Israels, Mesdag, Van Hove, Bosboom, etc.; catalogue), exhibited in a room lighted from the roof ; a valu able Collection of Drawings and Sketches by old masters ; and a con siderable Library. On the upper floor is a large auditorium , in which scie fic lectures are delivered . foundation also provides for the publication of a scientific periodical ( ‘ Archives du Musée Tey ler' ) , and a certain sum is annually set apart for the purchase of prizes to be competed for by scientific essayists. At the corner of theDamstraat is the old Weigh - House, a sand stone building of 1598, by Lieven de Key. Opposite the Dam straat, on the right bank of the Spaarne , are the headquarters of the Dutch Scientific Society (secretary, Dr. J. Bosscha). The curious tower ( 1613) of the Nieuweor St. Annú Kerk ( Pl. 6 ; A, 5 ) is also by Lieven de Key. The unattractive nave was built in 1649 by De Bray. Not far off is the reformed Orphanage for Girls, built by Lieven de Key in 1608 as an Oudemannenhuis, from funds supplied by fes of the Rederykamern (p. 96) ; the dining - hall is interesting. The new Roman Catholic Church (Pl . 14 ; C, 5) is also distinguished by a handsome tower. The * Park of Haarlem (or Hout, i.e. wood), on the S. side of the town, is a beautiful and extensive plantation of fine old beeches, intersected by walks, enlivened by tame deer, and surrounded with villas , cafés, and places of holiday resort. The Flora Park (Pl. A, 7) is one of the pleasant parts of it ; band on Sun. afternoons and Wed. evenings. In this wood , about 1/2 M. from the Houtpoort, and 11/4 M. from the railway - station , is situated the Pavilion ( Paviljoen Welgelegen ; Pl. A, B, 7) , à château erected by the wealthy banker Mr. Hope of Am terdam in the Italian style and afterwards pur chased by Louis Napoleon , King of Holland. It is now the pro perty of government and contains several national collections. On the first floor is the ART-INDUSTRIAL MUSEUM ( Museum van Kunst nyverheid ), founded by a society in 1877 (adm . daily, 10-4, 25 c. ; catalogue 25 c . ). The collection consists of models, copies , and drawings of the most celebrated products of the artistic industries of ancient and modern times. It is arranged in the following groups : Woven Fabrics, Wood -carvings, Works in metal, Ivory carvings, Pottery, Architecture, Sculpture, Drawing and Designing, Costume. The section of engravings and wood - cuts contains 4000 specimens. - In connection with the museum is a school of design, which occupies the building next door the Pavilion and is attended by225 students. >

Horticulture. HAARLEM. 41. Route. 291 On the ground - floor of the same building is the COLONIAL MUSEUM, founded in 1871 (entered from the great avenue , second door to the left ; adm. on Sun. by tickets obtained gratis on other days ; catalogue 25 c . ) , which contains a copious collection of the pro ducts of the Dutch colonies, chiefly those in the E. Indies. Director of both Museums, Mr. F.W. van Eeden. Haarlem is famous for its Horticulture. The flower - beds of the numerous nursery - gardens display their gayest colours and diffuse their most delicious perfumes about the end of April and the beginning of May. Whole fields of hyacinths, tulips , crocuses, anemones, lilies , etc. , grouped in every variety of colour, are seen on the S. and W. sides of the town. Many of the finest gardens in Europe are supplied with roots from Haarlem , and Holland claims the merit of having promoted horticulture to a greater extent than any other country in the world . One of the leading firms is that of E. H. Krelage & Son , who possess a beautiful winter - garden and hot-houses to the S. of the town , Kleine Houtweg 17-27 (Pl . B, 6 ; visitors admitted on writing their names in the visitors' book ; best hours 10-12, 2-4, and in summer 6-8 also ; fee to the gardener who acts as a guide) . A visit may also be paid to the large nur series of Messrs. J. D. Zocher f Voorhelm Schneevoogt , known as the Rozenhagen , on the Schooterweeg (Pl . C, 1) , opposite the Ken nem bridge. In 1636 and 1637 the flower - trade in Holland assumed the form of a mania, and tulips became as important an object of speculation as rail way- shares and the public funds at the present day. Capitalists, mer chants, and even private individuals entirely ignorant of floriculture, traded extensively in bulbs, and frequently amassed considerable fortunes. The rarer bulbs often realised enormous prices. It is recorded , for ex ample , that a “Semper Augustus' was sold for 13,000 fl., an “AdmiralLief kens' for 4500 fl ., a Viceroy' for 4200 f. , etc. A single Dutch town is said to have gained upwards of 10 million fl . by the sale of tulip - roots in one year, and a speculator at Amsterdam realised 68,000 fl . in four months in the same manner. At length , however, a corresponding re action set in . Government declared that the contracts made were illegal, and the mania speedily subsided . The prices fell so rapidly that many of the bolder speculators were totally ruined, and before long a root of the highly- prized ' Semper Augustus' might be purchased for 50 f1 . About a century later a similar phenomenon occured in the trade in hyacinths, and an official list of 1731 mentions a ' Bleu Paste non plus ultra' as hav ing been sold for 1600 florins. The library of Messrs. Krelage contains an interesting collection of works relating to the tulip -trade. The most attractive place in the Environs of Haarlem (see Map, p. 335), which are much admired by the Dutch, is the beau tiful village of Bloemendaal, with its numerous country-residences and park - like grounds, situated 21/2 M. to the N.W. of Haarlem, at the back of the Dunes (omnibuses run frequently in summer , starting from the Haarlem railway - station ; fare 15 c. ). One of the highest points of these sand-hills is the Brederode'sche Berg, or Blaauwe Trappen , about 41/2 M. from Bloemendaal, and close to the lunatic asylum of Meerenberg and the picturesque red brick ruins of the château of Brederode, once the seat of the powerful 19 * 292 Route 41 . ZANDVOORT. counts of that name (reached also from the station of Zandpoort ; p. 339). (Near the ruins is a good inn , called the Velserend .) The extensive view to the E. embraces the admirablycultivated and partly wooded plains of N. Holland, Haarlem , the Haarlemmer and Wyker Meer , the Y, Amsterdam , the innumerable windmills of Zaandam , the undulating and sterile sand-hills , and the sea. The whole excursion from Haarlem viâ Bloemendaal to Brederode and back , including the ascent of the Brederode’sche Berg (1 M. from Velserend) , may be accomplished by carriage in about 3 hrs. ( one- horse cab 4 fl .). —A similar prospect, made famous by Ruys dael's landscapes, may be enjoyed from the Dunes near the village of Overveen ( 11/2 M. to the W. of Haarlem ), on the road to Bloemen daal ; railway see below. - About 51/2 M. to the S.W. of Haarlem lies the sea -bathing place of Zandvoort, which is connected with the main line of the state - railway by a branch passing Overveen (see above ; fares 60, 45, 30 c. ). The line affords an interesting survey of the Dunes. Carriage from Haarlem to Zandvoort 4-5 fl. Zandvoort. Hotels. On the dunes , with free view of the sea :

• HÔTEL KURZAAL, nearest the station , R., L. , & A. 11/2-7 fl. , A. 80 C. ,

D. 21/2, pens . from 61/2 fl.; HÔTEL DE L'Océan, similar charges. Some what farther back, HÔTEL VICTORIA. More to the S. , near the village : Hôtel KAUFMANN , R. 31/2, pens. 71/2 fl.; GROOT BADHUIS ; Hôtel Belve DERE ; VILLA MARIS (R. from 14 fl. per week , 'pens. ' 31/2 fl.), and others, all commanding a view of the sea. In the village: HÔTEL DRIEHUIZEN. Numerous private lodgings. Bathing Coach, 35-50 c. , 12 tickets 5 fl., including bathing -dress. The custom of promiscuous bathing has been introduced here as at Scheven ingen, but there are also separate bathing- places for ladies and gentlemen , Horses, 1 fl. per hr. Sailing -boat, 1 fl. per hr. Zandvoort, a village on the extreme margin of the chain of sand -hills, has lately become so popular as almost to rival Scheve ningen asa sea - bathing place. Therailway (station in the village, see below ) ends at the foot of the dunes. From the station (omn. to the dunes ) a flight of steps ascends to à covered Gallery, con taining shops, cafés, etc. Adjoining the Gallery is the Hôtel Kur zaal , with a terrace and music pavilion on the side next the sea. The whole settlement is a creation of the last ten years and bears the name of Nieuw -Zandvoort, to distinguish it from the fishing - village of Zandvoort lying close behind the dunes , about 1/2 M. to the S. ctramway from the station ). At the village is a marine hospital for thildren (53 beds). Amsterdam is supplied with drinking - water from (he neighbouring Vogelsang Dunes. From Zandvoort a walk should be taken to the North Sea Canal (p . 337), about 6 M. off, returning by rail . nep оддер кадеRotten Bilderwujk

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a. Roeters Stoot Hospitaa ) St Elisabeth gesticht Nieuwe Kerk - FU neuwel Disent Herste Park Straat Weesper Plein harus Valkeniers Sarptautister Olyphant Courtsd Weesper Poart Station Hooge sluis ---B - ui -t-e -n Rhyn spoorweg achter Pad Tweede Park Derde Vorbinding met Centraal -Stan Mawar Wee's peregit Boerhaved Mig higuets whati cuat soc stets e Bol Paer AanstelDijk Best Pant i fata oprit 5 SN 293 corner 42. Amsterdam . Railway Stations. 1. Central Station (Pl. C, D, 2 ; * Restaurant), for all trains, including those of the Rhenish Railway ; 2. Rhenish Station (Pl . G , 4 , 5 ), ' for Utrecht, Gouda, the Hague, Rotterdam , Arnhem , Germany, and Belgium . Cab, per 1/2 hr. 60 C. , 1 hr. 80 c . , each additional '/4 hr. 20 c. ; trunk 30 c. , small luggage free; night chargés, see p. 294. Tramway to the Dam (p . 299), 71/2 C., comp. p. 294. Hotels . * Amstel KOTEL (Pl. a ; F, 5) , the property of a company, with railway booking - office , baths, telegraph , etc., near the Rhenish Station , with 200 R.at 2-6 fl ., B. 75 , L. 25 , A. 50 c., table d'hôte at 5.30, 21/2.fl., omn. 50 c .; * BRACK'S DOELEN HOTEL (Pl. b ; E, 4 ), Doelen straat, with simila charges ; * HÔTEL VICTORIA ( Pl . 1 ; D, 2 ), at the of the Damrak and Prins Hendrik -Kade, R., L., & A. 2-8 f ., B. 70 c ., déj. 11/4, D. 21/2 fl. *HÔTEL AMÉRICAIN (P1. 8 ;' D , b ), Leidsche Plein , R., L., & A. from 13/4, B. 1/2 fl . ,tariff exhibited in the rooms ; RONDEEL (Pl. c ; E, 4) , Pays- Bas (Pl . d ; E, 4) , both in the Doelenstraat, R. 2-3 n. , L. 20 , A. 25 , B. 80 C. , D. incl. wine 21/2 fl. ; * BIBLE HOTEL ( Pl . e; D, 3) , between the Damrak andWarmoesstraat,with 120 rooms from 13/4 fl. upward ( L. & A. included ), B. 80 c. , D. 21/2'fl . Second - class : HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE, Prins Hendrik -Kade 21 ' (Pl. D, 2 ), with restaurant, R. , L., & A. 1-2, D. 11/2 fl .; *HÔTEL ADRIAN (Pl. k ; D, 3) ; * HÔTEL-CAFÉ NEUF, R. 11/2 fl ., B. 70, L. 30 c . ; HÔTEL & CAFÉ - RESTAUR. DU COMMERCE ; * HÔTEL- CAFÉ SUISSE ( Pl. g ; D , 3); these four in the Kalverstraat, with cafés ; HÔTEL -CAFÉ WILLEMSEN , Heiligenweg 26 , near the Kalverstraat; MILLE COLONNES, with café, in the Rembrandtsplein ( see below ) , R., L. , A. , & B. 2-29/2, D. 11/2 fl.; KRASNAPOLSKY Warmoesstraat (Pl. D, 3) , R., L., & A. 2-5 , B. 1 /2-3/4, D. 21/2 fl., with a large café - restaurant (see below ) ; * STAD LBERFELD ( Pl. P ; E , 3 ) , Achterburgwal, commercial, R. & B. from 21/2 fl. - DE OUDE GRAAF (Pl.'1 D , 3 ), D. 2 fl., POOLSCHE KOFFIEHUIS, R., L., & A. 2 , D. 11/2, plat du jour1/2 fl ., and DE JONGE GRAAF, D. 11/2 fl. , all three in the Kalverstraat, suitable for gentlemen travelling alone; HớTEL HAAS ( Pl . 0 ; D, 3 ), Papenbrugsteeg, R. & B. 13/4 fl.; OLDEWELT (Pl . q ; D, 2) , Nieuwendyk 100 ; HÔTEL &CAFÉ REMBRANDT (VI. E , 4 ), Rembrandtsplein ; HÔTEL HOLLANDAIS (Pl . t D; , 5) , Leidsche Plein, R., L., A., & B. 2-21/2, D. 11/2 fl.; * HÔTEL DU PALAIS ROYAL, Paleisstraat, near the Dam ; HÔTEL -CAFÉ DE BEURS , Damrak 95 , R. & B. 11 /2-13/4 f). *HÔTEL GARNI HUFFNAGEL, Fransche Laan, near the Zoological Garden (Pl. F, 3) , a family- house in a pleasant and quiet situation. Restaurants (often crowded about 5 p.m.). *Riche, Rokin 84, near the Dam, French cuisine, D. 3-5 fl.; * Van Laar, Kalverstraat 3 ; these two of the first-class; * Hôtel Américain, see above, D. from 5 to 7 p.m. 14/2 fl .; Het Gouden Hoofd , Rembrandtsplein 39 ; Krasnapolsky, Warmoesstraat, see below , D. from 5 to 7 p.m. 21/2 fl . ; Panopticum , Amstelstraat, opposite the Grand Théâtre ( Pl. E, 4 ) ; De Karseboom , Kalverstraat; * Port van Cleve, near the post-office, opposite the Nieuwe Kerk ; Café Neubauer , Kalverstraat 2 ; Müller, Warmoesstraat 196 ; Buhrdorf, Warmoesstraat 193; Polman , Zum Pschori, Warmoesstraat, Nos . 195 , 178 ; Schützenliesl, Warmoesstraat 157 ; Westrus, Damrak 60 ; American Bar, Rokin 20 ; Wiener Café , Rokin 22; Café Riener, Rokin 126 ; Kieselbach, Kalverstraat 64. Bavarian or Bohemian beer can be obtained at most of these restaurants . Restaurants at most of the hotels. - Wine Rooms: Aux Caves de France, Kalverstraat 53 ; Bodega, Goomans, same street 234, 223. --- Oysters, fish , etc .: Van Laar, Kalverstraat, see above; Te Mytelaar , Utrechtsche Straat 2 , etc.; oysters 80 c. to 1 fl . 20 c . per dozen. Cafés. Krasnapolsky, Warmoesstraat (Pl. D, 3) , one of the largest cafés in Europe, with a garden and numerous billiard tables ; * Mille Colonnes, in the Rembrandtsplein ; Poolsche, Suisse, Neuf, all in the Kalverstraat; Café Américain , Café Hollandais, Leidsche Plein ; Continental , Sarphatistraat, next door to the Amstel Hotel (Pl. F , 4, 5 ), with garden ; Paviljoen , in the Vondels-Park (p. 334). - Confectioner. Van Giesen , Kalvers 220 . Liqueurs (Curaçao, 'Half-om -half', ' Maagbitter' , etc.). Wynand -Fockink, a firm founded in 1679, the retail business carried on in curious old pre 294 Route 42. AMSTERDAM Theatres . 3 mises in the Pylsteeg (entrance by No. 19 Damstraat; Pl. D, 3) ; Erven Lucas Bols, founded in 1575 , Kalverstraat 32; both much frequented during the business-hours of the Exchange ; De Drie Flesschen , Gravenstraat. Baths. Swimming Baths in the Y , at * Van Heemstede -Obelt, De Ruyter Kade 150, and at the W.Dock (Pl. E, 1) ; also in the Amstel, near the Schollebrug, to which a small steamer plies. Warm Baths. * Van Heem stede- Obelt, see above ; in the Rokin (Pl. D , 4 ) ; on the Heerengracht (No. 158 ), near the Leliegracht (Pl. C, 3 ) ; at the hotels, etc. Shops. The best are on the Nieuwendyk and in the Kalverstraat, Damstraat, Paleisstraat, Leidsche Straat, Leidsche Plein , Galery (p . 306 ) , and Utrechtsche Straat . PHOTOGRAPHS: H. Parson , Kalverstraat 218 . PHOTOGRAPHERS: Wegner & Motta , Rokin 136 . BOOKSELLERS: Sülpke, Kalverstraat 179 ; Seyffardt, Damrak 99, by the Exchange; Müller, Singel 286 Van Gogh, Keizersgracht 453. ART DEALERS: ' Pictura', Wolvenstraat 19 ( Pl. C, D, 4 ), ancient and modern paintings and drawings;Franz But'a & Sons, Kalverstraat 39, pictures and engravings F.; Müller & Co., Doelenstraat; Schel tema & Holkemā, Rokin 74 , modern paintings ; Van Gogh , see above. DRAWING MATERIALS : C. L. C. Voskuil, Reguliers - Breestraat 32 , between Kalverstraat and Rembrandtsplein . ANTIQUITIES : Boasberg, Kalverstraat 63 ; Goudstikker & Molpurgo, Kalverstraat 49 (also old pictures) ; Speyer & Zoon, Kalverstraat 10. -FAIENCE : Focke & Meltzer, Kalverstraat. — CIGARS : Hajenius, in the Dam , at the corner ofthe Beurssteeg ; Reynvaan , opposite the Hôtel des Pays- Bas , Weinthal, Boele, shops in several streets. Money Changers. Twentsche Bank, Spuistraat ; Kramer & Co., Vygen dam , between the Dam and the Damstraat (Pl. D, 3) ; Anspach & Donk, Nieuwezyds-Voorburgwal, at the Molsteeg. Theatres (the larger are closed in summer). The company from the Stads Schouwburg (Pl. D , 5 ) in the Leidsche Plein , burned down in 1890, play at present in the Plantage summer- theatre , Fransche Laan. Grand Théâtre ( Pl . E , 4 ) , in the Amstelstraat , chiefly devoted to the Dutch drama; German performances are sometimes given. Performances begin at 7.30 p.m. The charges for admission vary. — Park - Schouwburg (Pl. F, 3) , near the Park , decorated in the Oriental style, for Dutch operas and spec tacular pieces. Frascati (Pl. F, 3) , Middellaan, near the Parklaan , Dutch vaudevilles. – Het Paleis voor Volksvlyt (Palace of Industry, Pl . F, 5) is a large establishment capable of holding 12,000 persons , where concerts, operettas, etc., are frequently given; symphony-concerts are given on Thurs. at 8 p.m. and 'Sun. at 1.30 p.m. (adm . usually 50-75 C .; comp. p. 306 ). Circus Carré, on the Binnenamstel near the Hoogensluis ( Pl . F, 4) , from Octr. to June. Théâtre Victoria, Walhalla, cafés chantants in the Nes (Pl . D , 4) , between the Rokin and the Oudezyds Voorburgwal (other places of the game kind in the neighbourhood ). Salon des Variétés (Pl . E, 4) , in the Amstelstraat, is a popular resort, where smoking and drinking form part of the entertainment (adm . 60 c ). Panorama, in the Plantage Middellaan (Pl. G, 3) , with an exhibition of paintings. Panopticum ( Pl . E, 4) , Amstelstraat, adm . 50 c . Concerts . In the new Concert-Gebouw , behind the Ryks Museum (Pl. D, 6 ). At the Paleis voor Volksvlyt, see above. In the Zoological Gardens ( p. 306) , on Sun. afternoons and Wed. evenings in summer. At the Vondels Park ( p . 334) , in summer. At the Tolhuis , a popular tea- garden com manding a fine view of Amsterdam (p. 336 ) , in summer, occasionally. Cabs. Per 1/2 hr. 60 c . between 7 a.m. and midnight, 1 fl. atnight ; per hour 80 c. and 11/2 fl.; each additional quarter of an hour 20 and 25 c, Luggage see p . 293. Tramways ( comp. the Plan) . The central stations are the Dam (Pl . D, 3 ) and the Leidsche Plein (Pl. D , 5 ), from which lines diverge in all direc tions. Fare on all routes 10c., including correspondance' (' overstap kaartjes'). Subscription - tickets at 7 c . are sold in the streets . – OMNIBUS from the Nieuwe Zyds Voorburgwal ( p. 297), behind the Paleis ( Pl. D, 3) to the Zoological Garden and the Abattoirs ; to the s. to the Leidsche Plein and the Ryks Museum ; to the S.E. to the Amsteldyck , 71/2 c ., there and back 10 с . Algo from the Waterloo Plein (Pl . E, 3, 4 ) viâ the Keizers gracht or Heerengracht to the Heerenmarkt ( Pl. C, 2). — STEAM TRAMWAY : Collections. AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 295 1. From the Haarlem Plein (Pl. B , 2 ) to Sloterdyk ( 15 c .), and from the Rhenish Station ( Pl. G, 4, 5) to Muiden ( p. 337), Naarden , and Hilver sum (p. 346 ). 2. From the Damrak (Pl . D , 3 ) viâ Broek (p. 338 ) and Mon nikendam (p . 338) to Edam (p . 338 ) ; a small steamer crosses the Y. Steamboats. a . IN THE HARBOUR (Havenstoombootdienst): 1. From the Prins- Hendrik -Kade, to the N. of the Damrak (Pl. D, 2 ), across the Y to the Koninginnedok ( p . 298 ), and to the Rietlande, at the N.E. corner of the town ; then by the locks mentioned at p. 337 to the Zeeburg, a popular resort and garden , every /2 hr. – 2. From the Schreyerstoren (PÎ. 52; E , 2 ; p . 293) to Nieuwendam ( p. 337) every hour from 7 to 11 a.m. and from 1 to 7 p.m. – 3. From the N. end of the Rokin, near the Dam ( Pl. D , 3 ) , stopping at the Amstelstraat, Amstel Hotel, etc. , to the Schollenbrug every 10 min. , and to Diemen every hour. – 4. On the Amstel, from the Achtergracht (Pl. F, 4) , to Ouderkerk, a village to the S. of Amsterdam , every hour, from 7 to 11 a.m. and from 1 to 7 p.m. - 5. From the De Ruyter-Kade (Pl. D, 2) to the Tolhuis (p . 336 ), every 1/4 hr. The times of departure vary with the season of the year (comp. the Officieele Reisgids). Steamers can be hired for excursions, tariffs to be had from the conductors . b. Other STEAMERS : to Alkmaar ( p . 340), twice daily ; to Zaandam , see p. 336 ; to Purmerend (p . 342) , 8 times daily ; to Edam , see: p . 338 ; to Kampen and Zwolle ( pp . 348, 347) , daily ; to Leyden, several times daily; to Rotterdam ( p . 246 ) , daily; to Hoorn (p . 343) , daily ; to Harlingen ( p. 346 ) , daily ; to Leith, once fortnightly ; to London , twice weekly (fares 23 s., 15 s. ) ; to Huli, twice weekly ; to Liverpool fortnightly. A steamer also plies nearly every Sun. in summer to the island ofMarken ( p . 338), start ing at 10 a.m. at the Westerdok , behind the Central Station ( p. 298) . ( Consult the Officieele Reisgids , mentioned at p. xxvi.) Post and Telegraph Office (PI. D, 3) , in the Nieuwezyds Voorburgwal, at the back of the Palace. There are several branch post and telegraph offices. British Consul, W. C. Robinson , Esq ., Prins Hendrik -Kade 183 (office hours 10-2) . — United States Consul : Theodore M. Schleier, Esq ., Doelen straat 20 (office-hours 10-3). English Episcopal Church ( Pl . 17) , Groene Burgwal 42 ; service at 10.30 a.m.; chaplain, Rev. James Chambers . Presbyterian Church in the Begy nenhof; service at 10 a.m. Collections, Museums, Galleries , etc. Arti et Amicitiae, historical picture- gallery ( p. 303 ), daily 10-4 ; ad mission 25 c . Blind Institution ( p. 331), Wednesdays, 10-12. Botanical Garden ( p. 307), daily, 10-5 ; admission 25 c . Cattle Market and Abattoir, on the Cruquius road and the Veelan , daily except Sun., gratuity to porter. Exchange (p. 299), daily ; business -hour 1-21/2; admission 25 c . Library ( municipal) , on the Singel , near the Heiligenweg , daily 9-4 , but in July and August four times a week only , 1-4 . Museum Fodor ( p. 301) , daily , except Tuesdays , from 10 ( Sundays from 11) to 4 ( Nov. - Feb. 11-3) ; admission on Sundays 25 c. , on other days 50 c. Palace, Royal ( p . 300 ) , daily, 9 or 10 to 4 (3 on Sun.) ; fee for one per son 50 c . , and 50 c . more for the ascent of the tower (*View) . Panopticum and Panorama, see p. 294 . Ryks Museum (p . 303) , daily , except Mon. , 10-5 (in winter 10-4 ); on Sun. and holidays, 12.30-5 . Seamen's Training School ( p . 298) , Mon. , Tues., Thurs. , Frid ., and Sat. , gratis ; closed in August. Stadhuis ( p . 302), daily, best before or after office hours (9-4 ) ; fee 50 c . Town Hall, see Stadhuis. Zoological Garden ( p. 306 ), daily, admission 50 c.; open in summer from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., but the larger animals not visible after 7 p.m .; concerts in summer on Wednesday evenings and Monday forenoons and evenings. 296 Route 42. AMSTERDAM . History . Principal Attractions : Ryks Museum (p. 308 ) ; ZoologicalGarden (p. 306 ) ; Walk by the Harbour (p. 297) and through the Jewish quarter ( p. 307 ) ; ferry to the Koninginnedok, Nieuwendam, or the Tolhuis ( p. 336 ). Amsterdam , the commercial capital of Holland, lies at the in flux of the Amstel into the Y or Ij ( pronounced as ī long ), an arm of the Zuiderzee which has been formed into an excellent harbour. The town originated at the beginning of the 13th cent., when Gys brecht II. , lord of Amstel, built a castle here (1204) and constructed the dam which has given rise to its name. In 1275 CountFlorens V. of Holland granted the towni exemption from the imposts of Holland and Zeeland, and in 1311 it was finally united with Holland . In the 14th cent. the town began to assume greater importance, and was sought as an asylum by exiled merchants of Brabant. In 1421 one third of the town was destroyed by a conflagration, but its prosperity soon returned , and at the beginning of the Spanish troubles Am sterdam had become a very important city. In 1490 the Emp. Maximilian I. gave the city the privilege of using the Imperial Crown as the crest in its armorial bearings. The real importance and prosperity of Amsterdam date from the close of the 16th cent. , when the Spanish war had ruined Antwerp, and the horrors of the Inquisition had compelled numbers of enterprising merchants, skil ful manufacturers, and distinguished artists to seek a new home in Holland . Between 1585 and 1595 the town was nearly doubled in extent, and was greatly favoured by Prince Maurice of Orange. The conclusion of peace shortly afterwards ( 1609 ) and the esta blishment of the E. India Company combined to raise Amsterdam within a very short period to the rank of the greatest mercantile city in Europe. External circumstances , such as the attempt of William II . of Orange to occupy the city with his troops (1650 ), and the danger threatened by the campaign of Louis XIV. ( 1672 ), did not seriously affect the prosperity of the inhabitants. After the dis solution of the Dutch Republic in 1806 , Amsterdam became the residence of King Louis Napoleon (1808 ), and subsequently the third city in the Empire of France ( 1810-13). The population was in 1890, excluding thesuburbs 406,300 ( 80,000 Roman Catholics, 30,000 German and 3500 Portuguese Jews). The trade of Amsterdam revived rapidly after the restoration of the national independence , and is now very important, though the number of ships that enter and clear the harbour is still scarcely a third of that at Antwerp. In 1889 1538 vessels with cargoes (2,685,000 tons) entered and 1035 laden vessels (1,653,000 tons) cleared at Amsterdam . As the chief mart for the colonial produce of the Dutch colonies (tobacco, Java coffee, sugar , rice , spices, etc. ) , Am sterdam is indeed one of the first commercial places in Europe. Its industries are also considerable, including refineries of sugar and camphor, tobacco and cobalt- blue manufactories, breweries , and diamond polishing mills (p . 307) . The older part of the city is in the form of a semicircle, the Harbour. AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 297 diameter being formed by the Y. Canals or ' Grachten' of various sizes intersect the city in every direction , and divide it into 90 is lands, which are connected by means of nearly 300 bridges . The depth of water in the Grachten is about 3-31/2 ft., below which is a layer of mud of equal thickness . To prevent malarial exhalations the water is constantly renewed by an arm of the North Sea Canal, while the mud is removed by dredgers. Some of the Grachten have been entirely filled up ( “ gedempt' ), as, 6. g. , recently the Nieuwe Zyds Voorburgwal, now one of the main approaches from the new central station to the centre of the town. The chief concen tric canals within the city are the Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht, and Heerengracht (49 yds. wide) , flanked with avenues of elms, and presenting a pleasant and at places a handsome and picturesque appearance. The finest buildings, including many in the peculiar Dutch brick style of the 17th century, are on the Keizersgracht and Heerengracht. _Among the influential architects of that day may be mentioned Hendrik de Keyser (1567-1621 ), Jacob van Kampen ( 1598-1657), and Philip Vingboons( 1608-1676 ). The other Grachten (70 in number) are connected with these , and are bordered with hand some rows of houses, constructed of red brick . The Singel- Gracht , 61/2 M. long, and bordered by handsomequays( Nassaukade, Stadhou derskade, and Mauritskade) , separates the old town from thenew quar ters which have sprung up within the last 20 years. The extension is mainly on the S. side between the Amstel and the Vondels Park, and also on the E. and W. sides, where many new streets have been built. The houses are all constructed on foundations of piles, a fact which gave rise to the jest of Erasmus of Rotterdam, that he knew a city whose inhabitants dwelt on the tops of trees like rooks . The upper stratum of the natural soil is loam and loose sand, upon which no permanent building can be erected unless a solid substruc ture be first formed by driving piles ( 14-60 ft . long) into the firmer sand beneath . The operations of the builder below the surface of the ground are frequently as costly as those above it. 1822 the great corn -magazine, originally built for the E. India Company, literally sank into the mud, the piles having been inade quate to support the weight of the 3500 tons of grain which were stored in the building at the time. The city has also been fre quently endangered by the ravages of wood - worms. The cost of the works connected with the bridges, canals, and dykes, is esti mated at several thousand florins per day. The safety of the city depends on the security of these works, any defect in which would expose Amsterdam to the risk of being laid many feet under water. a. The Harbour and District enclosed by the Singel- Gracht. The * Harbour of Amsterdam, formed by the Y, has been sub jected since 1872 to a most thorough-going process of extension and In the year 298 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Schreyerstoren . > > improvement, undertaken , like the construction of the North Sea Canal ( p. 337) to maintain the commercial importance of the city. The corporation, the railway companies , and private enterprize are vying with each other in the introduction of the newest improve ments and devices of modern science , and no expense has been spared in endeavouring to make this one of the finest harbours in Europe. In the centre lies an artificial island , with the new Central Railway Station (Pl. D , 2 ), a large building in the early Dutch Renaissance style ( p. 308) designed byCuypers , and opened in 1889. To the E. and W. of this are two other arti ficial islands, the Oostelyk Station Eiland and the Westelyk Sta tion Eiland. The De Ruyter - Kade, or quay running along the N. side of these islands, is the starting - place for the steamers to England. The large American liners andEast Indiamen (visitors admitted ) are berthed in the Westelyk Dok (Pl . B, C , 1) and the Oostelyk Dok (Pl . E, 2 ), or lie at the Handelskade (Pl. F, G, 1), a long quay stretching towards the E. The Oostelyk Dok is ad joined by the Ryks-Marine- Dok and the Ryks- Werf (Pl. F, 2 ), or dock and wharf of the royal navy (entrance in the Groote Katten burger Straat). On the N. side of the Y are the floating docks of the Amsterdamsche Droogdok Maatschappy, which have been named Koninginnedok (Pl. E , 1 ) in honour of Queen Emma (visitors admitted ; steam -ferry, see p . 295). Along the S : side of the harbour runs the PRINS HENDRIK-KADE (PI. D, E , 2 ), or Prince Henry's Quay, originally called the Buiten kant , skirting the N. side of the town and flanked with numerous quaint old houses and magazines. It formerly commanded a very picturesque view of the Y, which is, however, now somewhat marred by the new docks and islands . The central part of the Prins Hend rik-Kade, projecting in the form of a semicircle, used to be the starting -place of the Indiamen . Hard by is the Schreyerstoren ( Pl. 52; E, 2 ), built in 1482 and now containing the office of the harbour-master; it derives its name ( ' criers' tower ) from the tears shed on the neighbouring wharf by persons parting from their relatives and friends. The Schreyerstoren is one of the busiest stations of the harbour-steamer traffic (p . 295) . Farther to the E. on the Prins Hendrik-Kade (No. 131 ) is Admiral de Ruyter's House, with his portrait in relief on the gable. A little farther back, on the Oude Schans, is the old Montalbaans Tower (P1.44 ; E , 3 ). At the end of the quay is the Kweekschool voor de Zeewaart ( Pl. 41 ; F, 2 ), or Seamen's Institution , in which boys are educated for the merchant-service (adm. , see p. 295 ). The present building was erected in 1880, in the Dutch Renaissance style, by W. and J. L. Springer. Beyond the Nieuwe Heeren gracht is the Zeemanshuis ( P1. F, 2 ), or sailors' home, to which visi tors are admitted daily, except Sun. , from 10 to 1. Opposite is the Royal Dockyard (see above) and behind it is the Entrepôt. Exchange, AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 299 > The Entrepôt Dok ( Pl. F , G, 3), to the N.of the Zoological Garden, constructed in 1828, and measuring 765 yds. in length by 15 yds. in breadth , forms the custom-house harbour and bonded warehouses of Amsterdam. Visitors apply at the office at the en trance ( Pl. 50), where they are provided with a guide (25-50 c. ). The canal , which is flanked with the extensive magazines, is 23 ft. in depth, admitting vessels of large tonnage . The magazines on the N. side are destined exclusively for the reception of the pro ducts of the Dutch E. Indian possessions. Vast quantities of wine, corn , sugar, coffee, rice, and indigo are stored in these warehouses . Zoological Garden see p . 306. From the Schreyerstoren the Geldersche Kade leads 8. to the NIEUWMARKT (Pl. E , 3) , with the Fish Market (Pl . 58) , which presents a lively scene during the morning hours. Adjacent is the Št. Anthonieswaag (Pl . 53), or old weigh-house , long used by dif ferent guilds and now occupied by the Municipal Fire Brigade . The old unaltered room of the masons' guild is interesting to specia lists ( fee ). A little to the W. of this point is the Oude Kerk (Pl . D, 3) , a Gothic edifice, erected about the year 1300, and measuring 98 yds. in length by 71 in breath . (Custodian on the E. side, No. 76 , 25 c. ) The INTERIOR is supported by 42 slender round pillars , and covered with wooden barrel- vaulting. The beautiful stained glass in the windows of the Lady Chapel, dating partly from 1555 , represents scenes from the history ofthe Virgin (Death, Adoration of the Magi, Visitation, and Annun ciation ), by Pieter Aertsen ( ' Lange Pier' ) . To the right by the entrance is a window containing the armorial bearings of all the burgomasters of the city from 1578 to 1767 ; in the second window the recognition of the Netherlands by Philip IV . (p. xxxii). The monument of Admiral Van Heemskerck bears an old Dutch inscription, alluding to his having twice endeavoured to discover a more direct route to the E. Indies by the Arctic Sea. He fell in 1607 at the victorious Battle of Gibraltar. The church also contains monuments of Admirals Van der Hulst (d. 1666) , Sweers (d. 1673 ), Van der Zaan (d. 1669) , and Jansz (d. 1633) , of Marshal Wirtz (d. 1676 ), and of the poetess Lucretia Wilhelmina van Winter (d. 1705 ). From the Oude Kerk we proceed through the Warmoesstraat, or across the filled - in portion of the Damrak Canal ( Gedempt Damrak ; Pl . D, 3), to the Dam (Pl. D, 3) , a large square, forming the focus of the business life of the city. It owes its name to its position on the W. side of the old embankment with which the foundation of the city is traditionally connected. The Dam is surrounded by the Exchange, the Royal Palace, the Nieuwe Kerk, and several private houses, and it is the centre from which the principal streets diverge. It is also the central point of the tramway -system (p. 294), and adjacent, in the Rokin, is a landing-stage of the small harbour steamers (p. 295) . On the N.E. side of the Dam rises the Exchange ( Koopmans Beurs , Pl . D, 3) , a handsome structure with an Ionic colonnade, resting on a foundation of 3469 piles , completed in 1845. The hall in the interior is covered with glass. During business - hours 300 Route 42. AMSTERDAM . Nieuwe Kerk . (admission, see p. 295) most of the principal merchants and bro kers, as well as a number of sea - faring men, will be seen assembled here , transacting their business in eager, but subdued murmurs. During one week in August and September the Exchange is con verted into a playground for boys, whose delight on these occasions is unbounded. The tradition is, that boys playing here were once instrumental in discovering a conspiracy of the Spaniards against the city of Amsterdam in 1622, and that this privilege was accorded to the children of the citizens in commemoration of the incident. A new Ex ange is to be erected on the mpt Damrak (see above). At the N.W. angle of the Dam stands the Nieuwe Kerk (Pl. D, 3 ) , a late -Gothic cruciform structure, erected in 1408-70, and restored after fires and outrages in 1578 and 1645. It is one of the most important churches in Holland. Of the W. towers , which were begun in 1565, one was left uncompleted after the fire of 1645. The INTERIOR (sacristan at the N. E. corner of the Dam, No. 6 ; 50 c. ) is covered with a vaulted wooden ceiling, and contains remnants of some fine old stained glass , representing the raising of the siege of Leyden ( p. 280). The pulpit, by Vinckenbrinck, executed in 1649, is beautifully carved . The nave is separated from the choir by a brazen screen, 13 ft. in height. The place of the high -altar is occupied by the monument, by R. Verhulst, of the celebrated Admiral de Ruyter, who died in 1676 of wounds received at the victorious Battle of Syracuse. On a pillar in the choir is the bust of Admiral Wouter Bentinck , who fell in the naval battle near the Doggerbank in 1781. Another monument is to the memory of Ad miral Johann von Galen, who died in 1653 at Leghorn , of wounds received in the naval battle near that town. The monument of Admiral Van Kins bergen, to the left of the entrance to the church, by F. J. Gabriel, was erected in 1819. Opposite to it is the monument of the gallant Van Speyk (p. 173), who in 1831 maintained the honour of his country's flag at the cost of his life '. A pillar in the S. aisle, adjoining the screen, bears an inscription to the memory of Joost van den Vondel (d . 1679 ; p . 334 ), the Dutch dramatist. To the S. of the Nieuwe Kerk is the * Royal Palace ( Het Paleis ), begun by Jac. van Kampen in 1648 as a town - hall, during Burgo master Tulp's mayoralty, and substantially finished in 1655 at a cost of eight million florins. It rests on a foundation of 13,659 piles ; length 88 yds. , width 69 yds. , height of tower ( containing chimes) 187 ft. It was presented by the city to King Louis Napo leon as a residence in 1808. The massive and sober building was admirably adapted for a town-hall , but standing in the open market place and having no principal entrance, it is unsuitable for a palace. The gables are embellished with well - executed reliefs by Artus Quellin the Elder , celebrating allegorically the glories of the great commercial city and ' queen of the seas' . The whole arrangement and fitting up of the interior also carry us back to the days when the representatives of a wealthy and powerful municipality con gregated here. All the apartments are richly adorned with sculp tures in white marble by Artus Quellin and his assistants, which produce a very imposing general effect, while the details exhibit 3 2 Palace . AMSTERDAM. 42. Route. 301 great vigour of execution and duly-restrained picturesqueness of treatment ( Terracotta model in the Ryks Museum , p . 317 ) . The ENTRANCE ( adm. , see p. 295 ) is at the back of the building in the Voorburgwal. We ascend the staircase to the first floor and enter the North Gallery , the walls of which are lined with white marble. The gallery is now divided into three rooms, the first of which contains figures of Jupiter and Apollo, by Artus Quellin . In the second room , above the doors leading to what were originally the secretary's office and the room for marriages, are reliefs emblematical of Discretion and Fidelity. The third room is adorned with statues of Saturn and Cybele, by A. Quellin , and contains a handsome malachite vase, presented by the Emperor of Russia. A narrow passage now leads to the Royal Apartments, which are sumptuously fitted up with heavy silk hangings and furniture in the style of the First Empire. The KING'S BED Room has a richly painted ceiling by Cornelis Holsteyn and a handsome chimney - piece, above which is a large picture by N. de Helt- Stocade, representing Joseph and his brethren. The AUDIENCE CHAMBER, originally the burgomaster's room, contains several paintings : Self -sacrifice of Van Speyk (p. 173) , by Wappers and Eeckhout ; Marcus Curius Dentatus as a husbandman, one of the lar gest pictures by Gov. Flinck ; Fabricius in the camp of Pyrrhus, by Ferd. Bol. The ceiling is also by C. Holsteyn . - The AIDES- DE- CAMPS' WAITING Room contains a ceiling-painting by J. G. Bronchorst and an elaborately executed chimney-piece. The painting above the latter, by Jan Livens, represents the Consul Suessa ordering his father to dismount to do him reverence. The old court-room , called the VIERSCHAAR , which we inspect from a gallery with a ceiling by Bronchorst, is adorned with a fine frieze supported by Caryatides, emblematical of Disgrace and Punish ment. The reliefs of the frieze represent Wisdom (the Judgment of So lomon ), Justice (Brutus ordering his son to execution) , and Mercy (Zaleu cus suffering one of his eyes to be put out for his son). The walls are covered with white marble. The yellow Tea Room, with a ceiling painted by N. de Hell- Stoc de ( 1655) and an elaborate chimney- piece, contains a Florentine mosaic cab inet and a rich service of Sèvres. The SMALL DINING Room contains Bronchorsť's masterpiece , Jethro counselling Moses to appoint judges from among the people to share his labours (Exodus xviii) . Opposite is Solo mon's Prayer, by Gov. Flinck . On the side wall, between thehuge chimney pieces, is a picture by Jac. de Witt, Moses choosing the 70 elders. The clever deceptive paintings (imitations of sculptures) above the doors are by the same master. The LARGE DINING Room, formerly called the South Gallery, is also richly adorned with white marble. The four marble statues , Saturn and Cybele, Mars and Venus, correspond to those in the North Gallery, and like them are by Art. 'Quellin , who received 900 florins for each. Above the doors which formerly led to the chambers for cases of bank ruptcy and marine - insurance are two fine reliefs, one representing the Fall of Icarus, with an ornamental moulding of rats and mice gnawing empty boxes and papers, and the other Arion on the Dolphin . The QUEEN'S ROOM contains an excellent painting by Jan Livens, representing Prudence, Justice and Peace. In the THRONE Room the chief decorations are the handsome chimney -piece and a painting by Ferd . Bol of Moses on Mount Sinai, both of which, however, are unfor tunately concealed by the canopy over the throne. The magnificent RECEPTION Room is one of the largest halls in Eu rope, with a roof unsupported by columns, being 100 ft. in height, 39 yds. long, and 19 yds. broad. The walls here also are entirely lined with white Italian marble. In the centre of the marble floor is a representa tion of the firmament, inlaid in copper, which, however , is covered by a thick carpet manufactured in Deventer (p. 353) and is not shown to the public. Above the entrance to the throne- room is a representation of Justice, with Ignoranceand Quarrelsomeness at herfeet ; to the left is Punishment , to the right a Skeleton (now concealed ), and above, Atlag 302 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Zeemanshoop. with the globe. On the E. side of the hall , at the top of the chief stair case, is an allegorical figure of the town of Amsterdam, surrounded by Strength , Wisdom , and Plenty. The four arches in the corners were formerly connected with the old North and South Galleries, by means of short marble arcades, of which, however , three are now closed. On the walls of this and the throne-room are flags and trophies taken from the Spaniards and Indians ; and the flag used by General Chassé at the siege of Antwerp is also preserved here. The Tower of the palace, the summit of which is crowned with a gilded ship , commands an extensive *View of the city and its environs, including Haarlem, Utrecht, Alkmaar, and the Zuiderzee. The attendant who conducts visitors through the palace leaves them at the foot of the staircase leading to the tower ( closed on Sun.) . We ascend to the first landing and follow a somewhat dark passage to a second stair case, leading to the garret. Crossing this we ascend a flight of wooden steps and reach a closed door on which we knock loudly to summon the keeper of the tower (small fee ). In front of the Palace is a lofty Monument, erected in 1856 to commemorate the fidelity of the Dutch during the Belgian Revot ution in 1830-31 , and known as Het Metalen Kruis, after the war medals struck at the time. The sandstone statue of Concordia , on a hexagonal base with a lofty square pedestal, is by L. Royer. At the corner of the Dam and the Kalverstraat is situated the building of the Zeemanshoop 'seaman's hope' , Pl. 59; D , 3 ) , a society consisting of upwards of 600 members, many of whom belong to the best families of Amsterdam. Those who are captains recog nise each other's vessels at sea by the flag of the society. As every member's flag bears his number on the lists of the society, the name and destination of the vessel, although beyond hailing dis tance , are easily ascertained , and a report of the meeting is then sent home. A fund for the widows and orphans of seamen is also connected with the society. Visitors may obtain access to the building by applying to the custodian in the forenoon ( fee 50 c. ) . The KALVERSTRAAT (Pl. D, 3, 4), which leads southwards from the Dam, is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, and contains numerous fine shops, restaurants , and cafés. After 9 p.m. it becomes scene of a kind of Corso or promenade, from which , however, carriages are excluded. About halfway along the street , at the corner of the St. Lucien Gasse , is the Municipal Orphanage (Pl . 4 ; D. 4 ), entered from the lane ( adm . Mon. to Frid. 9-11.30 and 2-4 ; fee). The regents' room contains good paintings by J. Backer, Jur. Ovens, A. de Vries , etc.; the court, with its open colonnade and frieze in relief is also interesting. - Farther on, on the same side , is the Begynenhof (Pl. 3), of the 17th cent. ( comp. p. 335). The Reguliers -Bree-Straat, a continuation of the Kalverstraat, leads to the Rembrandtsplein (p. 303). Since the conversion of the original town-house into the palace , the old Court of Admiralty , in the Oudezyds-Voorburgwal , has served as a adhuis (Pl. D, 3) . Most of the paintings and other works of art formerly here have been transferred to the Ryks Mu > 5 University. AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 303 seum ( p . 308) ; the council hall, however, and the burgomaster's room contain some noteworthy paintings by F. Bol , J. Backer, G. Flinck , etc. , which may be viewed before or after office-hours. The municipal University, or Athenaeum Illustre (Pl . 57 ; E, 4), occupies an old Gasthuis (p.xxviii), and contains some excel lent old portraits of eminent scholars. A new Aula or hall is being built ; and new buildings for the physical, chemical, and physio logical laboratories have been begun. There are about 50 professors and 900 students. The Botanic Garden ( p . 307) belongs to this institution . The University Library, in an adjacent building which was restored in 1881, contains about 100,000 printed volumes, including the Rosenthal Collection of 8000 books on Indian literature . It also possesses numerous valuable MSS. (Cæsar's Bellum Gallicum of the 10th cent .; Syriac New Testament ; a Sachsenspiegel of the 14th cent. ; letters of Dutch scholars ). Admission , see p. 295 . The Arti et Amicitiæ society of painters in the Rokin (Pl . D, 4) possesses a Historical Gallery of 200 pictures and scenes from the history of the Netherlands, comprising many works of great merit. Other exhibitions of art also take place here, sometimes affording an admirable opportunity of inspecting valuable old paint ings and other works of art lent by private individuals. Admission 25-50 c . In the vicinity is the Lees- Museum (Reading Room, Pl. 42), with newspapers . Introduction by a member necessary. An old city - tower in the adjoining Sophiaplein (Pl . D, E, 4) contains the collection of the Royal Antiquarian Society. Art industrial and similar exhibitions frequently take place here. To the N. , on the Kloveniersburgwal (Pl. E, 3) , the Royal Academy of Science finds accommodation in the ' Trippenhuis', which for merly contained some of the paintings now in the Ryks Museum ( p. 308 ). In the REMBRANDTSPLEIN (Pl . E, 4) rises the Statue of Rem brandt, in bronze, designed by Royer , and erected in 1852. Rem brandt's house , see p . 307. From the Rembrandtsplein the Binnen - Amstel leads N. E. to the Botanic and Zoological Gardens (see p. 306) . To the W. is the Kalverstraat (p . 302). The Rembrandtsplein is adjoined on the S. by the THORBECKB PLEIN, which is embellished with a statue, by Leenhoff, of Joh. Rud. Thorbecke (d. 1872 ; Pl. E, 4), long the leader of the liberal party in Holland , and three times in office as a minister. In the neighbourhood is the House of Herr J. P. Six, Heeren gracht 511 , N. side, near the corner of the Vyzelstraat, containing a celebrated *Gallery of Paintings , most of which passed directly from the easel into the possession of the Six family. Part of the collection formerly in this gallery came by inheritance into the hands of the Van Loon family and was sold at Paris in 1877 for the sum of 1,500,000 florins. The founder of the whole collection was Jan Six ( 1618-1702; Burgomaster of Amsterdam from 1691 304 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Six Collection . 7 till his death), long the friend and patron of Rembrandt, Jan Li vens, and Gov. Flinck. Amateurs are kindly admitted to the Six collection on sending in their cards . Visitors give a small fee or a contribution for a charitable purpose (see p. xxvi). The names of a few of the more important works are given here. ANTE - ROOM : P. Potter, Equestrian portrait (1653) ; Aart van der Neer, Moon light scene. DINING Room : Terburg, Girl writing ; L. Bakhuysen , Two sea - pieces ; Nic. Elias , Portrait of Professor Nic. Tulp (p. 266 ) ; Gov. Flinck, Isaac blessing Jacob ; Two * Miniatures of 1655, perhaps by Rem brandt (?), representing Six, and hiswife Margaretha Tulp (aged 21) , daugh ter of the professor, in the year of their marriage. PRINCIPAL Room. To the right: * Rembrandt, Portrait of Burgomaster Six, the head completed, the rest broadly sketched in a masterly manner (1656 ) ; opposite, *Rembrandt, Anna Six , mother of the burgomaster , at the age of 57 ( 1641). Adjoining the first picture : * Jan Steen , Girl eating oysters ; A. van de Velde, Viewof Scheveningen ; Berck- Heyde, The Heerengracht in the middle of the 17th cent. ; Troost, Two conversation pieces ; * Terburg, Concert; Potter, Cattle, with a milk -girl washing a pail in the foreground ( 1647) ; *G. Dou , Girl at a window with a basket of fruit (1657) ; Frans Hals , Portrait of a man ; Nic. Maes , A child of the Six family; * Rembrandt, The physician Ephraim Bonus, a Portuguese Jew , painted in 1647 (8 in. in height) ; Wouverman and Ruysdael, The ford ; Wouverman, Market. ÚPPER FLOOR (small room lighted from the roof). To the right of the door : P. de Hooch , Interior ; Wouverman , Stable; Weenix , Moor offering a lady a parrot (Othello :) ; N. Maes, The listener; * 6. Dou, Dentist ; * Cuyp , Dutch fleet; above, Mierevelt, Three portraits ; Both, Fisherman. On the back -wallRuysdael : , Winter-landscape ; * A . Cuyp , Moonlight on the sea ; A. van de Velde, Brown cow; * Metsu , Woman selling herrings; Berchem , Forest-scene ; Adr. van Ostade, Fish -seller ( 1672 ); * Hobbema, Forest-scene; A. de Lorme, Groote Kerk at Rotterdam ; A. van Ostade, Interior of a peasant's house ; A. van de Velde, Cow drink ing. Third wall: Ruysdael, Swedish landscape ; * Jan van der Meer van Delft, Street in Delft, Peasant woman with a milk -pail ; Hondecoeter, Dead turkey, Goose and hare ; 8. Koninck , Scholar working by candle - light; Everdingen , Winter-scene ; Ruysdael, Norwegian scene ; * Jan Steen , Wed ding- feast ( 1653 ); G. van den Eeckhout, The woman taken in adultery ; Dirk Hals, Man playing the guitar ; Ochterveldt, Oyster- party. The * Fodor Museum (Pl . E, 5) , Keizersgracht 609, was found ed by a wealthy merchant of that name (d . 1860). It consists of a valuable collection of paintings by ancient and modern mas ters, preserved in a bui ing erected and maintained with funds left by the donor for the purpose. For the study of the French masters of the 19th century, this gallery is second to none save the Hertford Collection in London . Meissonier , Decamps , Ary Scheffer, and others are here represented by admirable works, while the gallery also contains numerous fine conversation - pieces of the modern Belgian and Dutch schools. Admission , see p. 295 ; visitors ring at the door to the left ( catalogue 25 c.; the pictures bear the names of the artists ). Room I. To the right : 57. A. de Lelie , Girl cleaning a kettle ; 54. H. Koekkoek, Fishing-boats on the beach ; 25. L. Dubourcq, Sceneinthe Campagna ; * 34. Ch. Immerzeel, Landscape with cattle ; 135. E. Fichel ( pupil of Delaroche ), Chess-players (1858 ); *156 . Lindlar (pupil of Schirmer), Laké of Lucerne ; 78. W. Roelofs,

- Fodor Museum . AMSTERDAM. 42. Route. 305 Dutch landscape ; 71. Van Oos , Still- life ; 50, 55. H. Koekkoek, Sea-pieces ; 138. Gudin, Fishing- village on the French coast . Room II . To the right : * 128. Decamps, Horses at pasture ; 110 . Verlat, Dog and parrot ; *124. Rosa Bonheur, Team of horses ;

• 147 . Meissonier, The death-bed ; 158. Pettenkoven , Duel; 108.

Verboeckhoven , Sheep ; 140. Gudin, Spanish coast ; 114. Verveer, Fair at Scheveningen ; 142. Guillemin , Visiting the poor ; 15 . J. Bosboom , Administration of the Sacrament in the Groote Kerk at Utrecht ; *93. Schelfhout , Stranded ship at Scheveningen ; 96. Scholten, Dead horse ; *129. Decamps, Turkish school ; * 152. A. Achenbach, Water-mill ; 79. Roelofs, Landscape ; 127. Decamps, The lost track ; 73. Pieneman, Portrait of the founder of the mu seum ; 131. Decamps, Flock of sheep in stormy weather (bought in 1860 for 11,215 fl .); * 146 . P. Marilhát, Caravan crossing a river ; *81 . Ary Scheffer, Christus Consolator (Luke, iv. 18), a large picture well-known from engravings and photographs (p . 377; bought in 1853 for 24,800f . ) ; 122. J. Beaume, Rescue by the monks of St. Bernard ; 94. Schelfhout , Winter-landscape; 38. N. de Keyser, Francis I. of France in the house of Benvenuto Cellini; 125. Rosa Bonheur, Sheep ; 135. A. Calame, Landscape; 121. Willems, Studio ; 95. Schelfhout, Landscape; *130. Decamps, Town in Asia Minor; 116. Waldorp, Draw bridge over a canal; 27. Gallait, Woman with two children ; 137. Fleury , Palissy the Potter in his workshop ; * 58. Leys, Flemish tavern ; 103. C. Springer, Market of Haarlem ; 133 . Diaz de la Pena, Nymph with Cupids ; 80. Ary Scheffer, Greeks of the War of Liberation. Room III. To the right : 35. Karssen , View of a town; 39. Kobell, Landscape ; *157. Pettenkoven , Gipsy . This room also con tains drawings and water - colours . Room IV. contains drawings ( 849, Head of a lady by Watteau ) and water- colour copies of celebrated pictures of the Old Dutch School. The drawings by earlier masters (Dou , A. van Ostade , A. van de Velde, Van Dyck, etc. ), the remainder of the modern works, and the ' Atlas van Amsterdam' , bequeathed to the city by M. Splitgerber in 1879, are shown on Thur. and Sat. on appli cation to the Museum Bewaarder' (fee 1 fl., devoted to charity ). The CHURCH OF THE REMONSTRANTS (Pl. 23 ; C, 2) , near the N. end of the Keizersgracht, contains valuable portraits of preachers, by Th. de Keyser, J. Backer, etc. No. 123 in the same street is the largely attended Public Commercial School . On the S. and E. sides of Amsterdam, on both sides of the Singel- Gracht (comp . Pl . and p. 297), which until about 20 years ago , under the name Buiten - Singel, formed the outer limit of the city , there have arisen entirely new quarters, with wide streets often planted with trees , ornamental squares , and numerous handsome buildings. In the LEIDSCHE PLEIN ( Pl . D, 5) are the ruins of BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 20 > > 306 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Zoological Garden. the Stads- Schouwburg (p . 294) ; to the S.E. is the Prison , and far ther on , beyond the Singel-Gracht, rises the Ryks Museum (p. 308) . In the FREDERIKSPLEIN (P1 . F, 5) is the Paleis voor Volksvlyt, a glass and iron structure by Cornelis Outshoorn, erected as a hall for exhibitions, concerts and theatrical performances ( see p. 294) . The elliptical dome, 190 ft. in height , is surmounted by a statue of Victory, 23 ft. high , by the Belgian sculptor Jaquet . The large hall can contain 12,000 visitors . Behind the Paleis is a large garden, containing a covered * Gullery, with shops, etc., much fre quented by promenaders. The Hooge Sluis ( Pl. F , 5 ), command ing pretty views on both sides, leads hence to the Rhenish Station ( p. 293). The Sarphatistraat leads to the N. from the front of the station , past the large Hospital (Pl. G, 4) and the Cavalry Barracks, to the Muider Poort (Pl . G, H, 3) , the only one of the ancient city-gates still existing. Outside of it is situated the extensive Eastern Ce metery of Amsterdam . Crossing the bridge to the W. of the gate we reach the Middel Laan , which for nearly its entire length skirts the S. side of the Zoological Garden. The large building on the S. of the street is the Hospice of St. James (Pl. G, 3) , an asylum for aged poor of the Roman Catholic faith . Adjacent is a Panorama, with a paint ing of Scheveningen by Mesdag. The * Zoological Garden (Pl . G, 3 ; admission, see p. 295 ), popularly called the ' Artis' ( being the property of the society ‘ Natura Artis Magistra' ) , near the Botanic Garden , laid out in 1838 and several times enlarged, is one of the finest in Europe , and little inferior to that of London . It is 28 acres in extent. Even a cursory visit to the chief objects of interest takes 3 hrs . ; a small guide- plan is presented gratis to visitors at the entrance. The ENTRANCE is in the Kerk Laan ( Pl. F , G , 3) . To the left are the camels , llamas, and stags ; behind are the singing-birds, the parrot gallery, and the Reptile House, which contains large serpents and other reptiles . The arrangements for fish -breeding, also in this part of the garden , are interesting ( in winter an spring only). Many thousands of salmon and trout are bred here and annually set free in the Dutch rivers. Close by is the Monkey House . Beyond the ponds , which are covered with sea- fowl , are different varieties of cattle and sheep , and on the left , the large Carnivora House , adjoined by that of the Elephants. Proceeding hence past the Antelope , Giraffe , and Zebra House , we reach the Eagle and Vulture House , the Buffalo Shed, and the Hippopotamus House. the N.E. angle is a large grotto with a basin of water , fitted up in 1877 for the reception of a pair of sea - lions. The large building to the right of the entrance is the Society House, with a large hall (Restaurant in summer ; D. , 2 fl. or upwards, from 4 to 7 p.m , à la carte from 12 ; not open before 10 a.m.). The older building farther on in the same part of the gardeng contains a collection of stuffed animals and skeletons in the upper story. Then the new Ethnological Museum , containing Chinese, Japanese, and Indian curiosities, and a valuable library. Also a collection of sea- weeds and corals. A fine Aquarium was added in 1881 (adm . for visitors to the Zoological rden 25 , others 50 c .). Hence the Fransche Laan leads to the W. to the Park (Pl . F, 3),

) In Jewish Quarter. AMSTERDAM. 42. Route . 307 which belongs to a private society , and the theatre called the Park - Schouwburg (p . 294). This quarter of the city has been built within the last twenty years , on a site that was once covered with pleasure- grounds and country-houses , and known as the ' Plantage' . The iron gate opposite the S. side of the Park forms the entrance to the * Botanic Garden (Pl . F, 3 ; admission, see p . 295), commonly known as the 'Hortus', and interesting on account of its numerous species of palms and its VictoriaRegia house, which attracts numerous visitors on summer- evenings, when that plant is in flower. In returning from the E. quarters of the town towards the Dam we may proceed through the JEWISH QUARTER (Pl . F, E, 3 ) , the ill - conditioned character of which presents a marked contrast to the Dutch cleanliness of the rest of the city. The most interesting times for a visit are Frid . evening, 1 hr. before the beginning of the Sabbath , Sat.evening after sunset, and Sun.after 10 a.m. Brokers’ shops and ma rine stores abound in these squalid purlieus , where faces and costumes of an Oriental type will frequently be observed . The Jews form one tenthof the population of Amsterdam , and possess ten Synagogues. The largest is that of the Portuguese Jews (Pl . 56 ; F, 3) in the Muiderstraat, erected in 1670 , and said to be an imitation of the Temple of Solomon ; it possesses a large number of costly vessels. After the expulsion of the Portuguese Jews from their native country in the first half of the 17th cent. , they sought an asylum at Am sterdam , where complete religious toleration was accorded to them . Many German Jews also , in order to escape from the persecutions to which they were subjected in their own country , flocked to Amster dam, which they regarded almost as a second Jerusalem. Baruch Spinoza , the father of modern philosophy , born at Amsterdam in 1632, was the son of a Portuguese Jew. The wealth of the Jewish community still renders it one of the most influential in the city . In the numerous dissensions between the States General and the Stadt holders , the Jews always took the part of the latter. In the Jodenbrêestraat (Pl . E, 3) , a simple memorial tablet marks the house (No.4 ; the second house from the bridge) in which Rembrandt resided from 1640 to 1656. Amsterdam has from an early period been famous for DIAMOND Po LISHING, an art unknown in Europe before the 15th cent . , and long confined to the Portuguese Jews of Amsterdam and Antwerp, to whom most of the mills at Amsterdam still belong. The most important are situated in the Zwanenburgerstraat (Pl. 6 ; E, 4 ) andthe Roeterseiland (on the Achter Graacht, in the E. part of the town ; Pl . 6 ; E, 4) . Visitors are generally admitted by M. Koster, Zwanenburgerstraat 12 , daily, except Sat. and Sun. , from 9 to 3, and by other houses also (fee 50 c .). The machinery of the mills is usually driven by steam , and the diamond to be polished is pressed by the work man against a rapidly -revolving iron disc , moistened with a mixture of oil and diamond dust. The latter is indispensable, as it has been found that no impression can be made on diamonds by any other substance . In a similar manner the stones are cut or sawn through by means of wires covered with diamond dust. 20 * 308 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum . b . The **Ryks Museum . The Ryks Museum (P1. D, E, 6) , an imposing building covering nearly 3 acres of ground, erected in 1877-85 from the plans of P.J. H. Cuypers in the so- called Early Dutch Renaissance style, retain ing numerousGothic and Romanesque features. The principal fa çade is turned towards the Stadhouderskade . The sculptures with which it is adorned are by Frans Vermeylen of Louvain and Bart van Hove of Amsterdam. The exterior is also ornamented with mosaic decorations in painted and glazed tiles, designed by G. Sturm and representing the principal figures and events in the history of Netherlandish art . The museum is surrounded with pleasure grounds and enclosed by a tasteful wrought-iron railing . The central gable of the PRINCIPAL FAÇADE is surmounted by astatue of Victory by Vermeylen. The alto -relief above the archway, 23 ft. in length, contains an allegorical figure of the Netherlands, surrounded by Wisdom, Justice, Beauty, and Truth , and receiving the homage of the Dutch artists . To the right of the central group are the architects Egin hard (p . 371) , Jan ten Doem (p. 363) , and Keldermans (p . 134) and to the left , the sculptor Klaas Sluter and the early painters Dirk Bouts and Lucas van Leyden ; to the extreme right are Rembrandt and his con temporaries, to the extreme left the more modern masters . The reliefs at the sides are allegorical representations of the arts of Painting and Drawing (to the right), and Architecture and Sculpture (to the left). The two niches between these reliefs are occupied by allegorical statues of Art and History. The reliefs above the windows refer to the founding of the new Museum . Above, on the pediment, are allegorical statues representing Inspiration and Industry . Below, at the entrances to the right and left of the archway, are statues representing Architecture and Sculpture, Painting and Engraving. The figures in coloured tiles symbolize the Dutch towns and provinces, with Amsterdam , the Hague, Haarlem , Leyden, Delft, Dordrecht, and Rotterdam in the centre, as the most celebrated nurseries of art. The vaulted and colonnaded passage is at present temporarily closed . The South FAÇADE of the Museum is to be elaborately ornamented with encaustic painting. Above the archway is a representation of Rembrandt, sur rounded by hispupils, painting the ' Staalmeesters'(p.326 ); to the right,Bishop David deBourgogne visited at Utrecht by the brothers Van Eyck ; to the left, the Reception of Albrecht Dürer at S’Hertogenbosch. The central gable contains figures of the most illustrious patrons of Dutch art from Char lemagne (p. 371) to King William I. - On the wings are represented the Founding of the Palaceat the Hague by the German king, Count William of Holland ; the Founding of the Guild of St. Luke at Amsterdam ; the Founding of the Carpet Manufactory at Middelburg ; the Presentation of the church windows at Gouda by the Dutch towns ; Amalia von Solms preparing for the decoration of the Huis ten Bosch at the Hague ; and the Founding of the first public museumby the Batavian Republic. The EASTERN FAÇADE is divided into four fields, to contain represent ations of the Building of the Church of St. Servatius at Maastricht; the Founding of the Valkhof at Nymegen by Charlemagne ; the Founding of Utrecht Cathedral ; and the Building of the Church of St. John at S'Her togenbosch . On the Western FAÇADE , likewise in four fields, is depicted a pro cession of persons celebrated in the history of Dutch'art. The arrangement of the interior of the Museum will be easily understood from the accompanying plans of the ground -floor and first floor. The collections include not only the paintings, drawings, and engravings formerly in the royal museum at the Trippenhuis , Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM , 42. Route. 309 and in the Museum van der Hoop , but also various pictures and other works of art collected from the Stadhuis, the Huiszittenhuis, and elsewhere, and the Art- Industrial Collections of the old Dutch Museum at the Hague and of the Antiquarian Society at Amsterdam . The general director of the new Museum is Mr. Fr. D. 0. Obreen , whose dwelling and office are in the house standing at the back of the museum, and built in the same style . The collections are open to the public daily, except Mon. ( see p . 295) . GROUND FLOOR. The E. half of the ground- floor contains the Dutch MUSEUM ( Nederlandsch Museum voor geschiedenis en kunst; catalogue 1 fl., by the director, Mr. Dav. van der Kellen ), which presents an inter esting survey of industrial art in the Netherlands from the time of Charlemagne to the beginning of the present century . The E. entrance, to the left of the archway, opens on a Hall, adorned with a group of David and Goliath , a wooden statue of the Stadtholder William II . , a bronze statuette of king William II. by W. Geefs, models, etc. To the right is the staircase to the picture-gallery ( p. 318 ); to the left, the entrance to theDomestic Interiors (p . 312) . We, however, proceed in a straight direction and descend a flight of steps to the large East Court, covered with a glass roof and containing the larger objects of the Military, Naval , and Colonial Collections. On the walls of the staircase are trophies of weapons and captured banners. In the court, to the left, is a room with a collection of weapons belong ing to the town of Amsterdam . To the right are ten cabinets with specimens of Dutch National Costumes : 1. Island of Marken ; 2. Dort, Breda ; 3. Zuid -Beveland ; 4. Vollendam ; 5. Scheveningen ; 6. Nun speet; 7. Huizen , Zandvoort; 8. Leeuwarden, The Hague ; 9. Wal cheren ; 10. Orphan girls ofAmsterdam . Opposite , in the middle, are Models of NavalGuns, apparatus for defending straits, powder - chests, and other objects belonging to the naval department mentioned at p . 310. Farther on is the Collection of Weapons. In the section de voted to ancient weapons : Fortress - guns of the 17-18th cent. · state and ornamental weapons; military and sporting pieces with inlaid and chased ornamentation ; pistols, lances, shields (one of tortoise - shell, with a portrait of Prince Frederick Henry) , swords , cross-bows , field - pieces, etc. (some of them found in the Zuider zee) . Small and richly ornamented bronze cannon of 1533 ; hand some gun and gun - carriage, presented by the king of Saxony to Willia m III .; banners of the Dutch provinces in the 17th cent. , with coats - of- arms painted on silk . The walls are adorned with devices formed of the Modern Weapons of the Dutch army. A case contains a collection of objects found in excavations, daggers of the 16th cent. , and a zinc plate found in the Straits of Magellan , 310 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum . with an inscription stating that it had been left there by the Dutch ship ‘Eendragt in 1616. Above are English and Spanish flags. To the right, Room from the house built for himself by the architect Jacob van Campen at Amersfoort, with paintings by him self and the motto ' el tado es nado' (' all is vanity' ) . In the middle is a clumsy model of the Royal Palace (p. 300) . To the left is a collection of Smith's Work, including some stoves of the 16th century . Farther on is a gaily - coloured group , representing a * Christ ening in Hindeloopen ( Friesland). Frisian dairy ; cheese-press from N. Holland . Dutch Carriages and Sledges , including a state - sledge of the be ginning of the 18th cent., a sedan - chair ( 17th cent.), numerous sleighs adorned with carving and painting , a hunting- carriage with paintings by Aart Schouman (18th cent.), and two elegant Dutch chaises , such as are still used at trotting-races and (in a simpler form) in the country . In the corner to the right, behind the carriages, are the Relics of the E.cpedition of Barents and Heemskerck (comp. p . 299), who explored Nova Zembla in 1595-96 in an attempt to find a N.E. passage to China round the N. Cape. Barents died on Nova Zembla in June, 1597, in consequence of the hardships of the winter spent there ; and the relics were discovered in his winter- house on the island in 1871 by Capt . Karlsen, a Norwegian navigator. The Naval Department chiefly contains models (provided with explanatory labels) , which are specially attractive for those interest ed in maritime matters . To the right are models of covered bridges , dry - docks, etc., above which is a series of portraits of presidents of the Dutch East India Com pany To the left are cranes , windlasses , life- boats ; model of Van Speyk's lighthouse at Egmond. Models of 'factories ' and other represen tations of the period of the Dutch East India Company. The space between the staircases in the glass- covered court is occu pied by several large model dry-docks, and plans in relief of the wharfs at Hellevoetsluis and of the Japanese island on Decima. The central hall contains a collection of Model Ships , arranged in three rows . In themiddle row : 651. Man- of- war ( 70 guns), built in Zee . land in 1698 ; 508. ' King of the Netherlands', ship -of-the-line with 34 guns (1842); 499. English ship -of- the-line, ofthe middle of the 18th cent. (40 guns) . -- In the left row : 663. 'Eurydice ', 32-gun frigate , beginning of the 19th cent.; Cruiser of 1774 ; 1257. 'Chatham ', man-of -war ; 1235. Turret -ram Buffalo”; 1239. " Tiger', monitor; 498. Ship of 1756 (40 guns). In the right row : 652. “Mercury ', man -of-war, 58 guns (1747) ; 1259. Elephant', merchant- ship of the middle of last cent. ; 950. Naval cutter (18 guns) ; 665. “ Prins Frederik der Nederlanden ', 44 gun frigate . -In the corner to the right of the entrance: 504. Ship of 1794 ( 74 guns ; under glass) ; model of a ship of the 17th cent . , dug up in North Brabant in 1822. - In the corner to the left of the entrance : 500. “ Vryheid' , man - of-war of 1782. By the wall, to the W. of the entrance: 503. Frigate belonging to the Dutch East India Company ; 1140, 1141. Barbette ships ; 1150-1154. Armour-plating ; 1156. Torpedo-boat; 655. Frigate of 1779 ; 511. Model of the first steam ferry - boat used on the Moordyk. 1st Cabinet : Light -houses; signals ; steam - machinery ; beacons . Ad joining , in the large hall : ships' hulls and prows . 2nd Cabinet : Oars , rudders, compasses, models of small boats, anchors, rigging. Lifeboat in the centre. Adjoining, in the large hall : light - ships , pilot- boats , etc. Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM. 42. Route. 311 ។ 3rd Cabinet ; Logs, chronometers, ship - telegraphs ; signal-gear ; pumps, rigging, etc. We now pass a number of small ships' models in the large hall. In the centre of the E. end-wall is the stern of the British flag-ship ( The Royal Charles' , captured by the Dutch in 1667 in their expedition to Chatham , and broken up in 1673. 679. Galley built in Holland for Peter the Great; 669. Swedish gun - boat; 673, 672. Dutch gun - boats, etc. The centre of the W. wall of the large hall is occupied by a model of the monument erected in Batavia to the Dutch who fell in Acheen ( Su matra) in 1873-80 , with a statue by Bart van Hove. In front is a bust of Prince Henry of the Netherlands , flanked on the right with captured Indian guns , and on the left with guns which belonged to the Dutch East India Co. in the 17th and 18th centuries. Above are Swedish flags, captured in 1658 by Admiral Wassenaar ; at the corners Spanish ship -lan terns; below are four Dutch flags , one of which was presented by King William to the Medusa', which , entirely unsupported , forced the straits of Simonosaki in Japan on July 11th , 1863. The remaining three flags belonged to other vessels which took part in the opening up of the straits. Portraits of the period of the Dutch East India Co.; two horses by J. de Gheyn. Glass - case containing a costly gun presented to the Dutch by a Javanese prince. Several small field - pieces of the 17th century. A staircase opposite the entrance leads from the S.W. corner of the glass - roofed court to the Ecclesiastical Department of the Dutch Museum, which illustrates the development of ecclesiastical art in the Netherlands , from the Carlovingian period , through the Romanesque , early -Gothic , and late - Gothic periods , to the 17th century ( badly lighted ). Room 176. Carlovingian Period (8-10th cent . ) . The architectural features are in the style of a chapel, said to have beenbuilt by Charlemagne, on the W. side of the church of St. Servatius at Maastricht. The pavement is a copy of ancient fragments in the minster at Aix -la -Chapelle. The wall -paintings, pillars , vaults, stained -glass, and altar are reproductions of old works. To the right, a sculptured tympanum from the abbey of Egmond, destroyed in 1573 , representing worshippers before St. Peter; below is a carpet woven in imitation of the covering found with the relics of St. Boniface (now in the archiepiscopal museum at Utrecht). Fonts of the 11th and subsequent centuries. Plaster - casts of monuments in Dutch churches. Room 175. Romanesque Period (11th and early 12th cent . ) . The archi tectural features and decorations are copied from the abbey - church at Herzogenrath, St. Servatius at Maastricht, and other churches of the 11th and 12th centuries. The windows are copies of stained glass of the same period. Cast of the shrine of St. Servatius at Maastricht (early 12th cent. ) . Room 174. Gothic Period (late 12th and first half of the 13th cent. ). The architecture is modelled on that of the minister of Roermond ( p . 372), and the stained glass ( Temptation in the Wilderness and the Marriage at Cana) is a reproduction of the famous windows in Notre Dame at Chartres . Casts of tombs in the church at Roermond. The patterns of the polychrome painting of the arch between this and the following room are borrowed from the church of St. John at Poitiers . ROOM 173. Gothic Period (middle of the 13th cent . ) . The architecture is copied from the cathedral of Utrecht (1251-67); the pavement from the minster at Roermond ; and the windows from the most ancient stained glass in Cologne Cathedral. Altar with wooden tigures and embroidered ante pendium of the 15th cent . ; above it , cast of a cross, used as a reliquary, from Roermond. In the corner, painted wooden groups of the 15th century. The arch leading to Room 172 is copied from the church of Fritzlar. ROOM 172. Gothic Period (14th cent.). The architecture is copied from the church of St. Nicholas at Kampen (1869) and the St. Jans Kerk at 's Hertogenbosch ; the paintings from the cathedrals at Freiburg and Mayence, the church of St. Bavo at Haarlem, and the choir of the parish 312 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum . church ( now pulled down) at Sevenum ; the stained glass from the Butchers' Chapel in the church of St. Nicholas at Kampen ; the choir- stalls from the Church of Our Lady (now pulled down) at Edam ; and the winged altar from the church of Kiedrich, near Mayence. Numerous wooden figures and groups of the 15th and early 16th cent. , on stands. Three handsome reliefs from the great church at Gouda ( about 1530 ), on the outside of this room. Room 171. Gothic Period (about 1400 ). The vaulting, windows, etc. , are copied from St. Michael's Church at Zwolle ( 1356) ; the pavement from St. Servatius at Maastricht; the paintings from the church of St. Nicholas at Venlo , with an Annunciation and Angels from St. Martin's church in the same town. The Tree of Jesse is reproduced from a tombstone in St. Peter's at Lübeck . Among the choir -benches on the W. side is the back of the above- mentioned altar from Kiedrich, and to the right and left of it are stands with carved and painted wooden figures and groups, including good carvings from the organ-case at Naarden (early 16th cent.). On the E. side is an altar with an antependium of the 15th cent. , and in the corners are other noteworthy carvings. Under the arch leading to the next room is an original wall -painting of the 14th cent. (under glass). Rooms 166 and 167. The central pillar is a reproduction from the church at Wouw ; the pavement from the cathedral at St. Omer . The architectural features of the S. Section are copied from the church at Wouw and the church of St. Lebuinus at Deventer ; the paintings from the St. Lucius chapel in the church of St. Martin at Venlo and from the church at Blitterswyk ; the triangular spandrils of the two S. vaults from a chapel in the abbey-church at Thorn . The original of the large wall- painting is in the Dominican church at Maastricht, dating from 1537 (above, Coronation of the Virgin , beneath, Legend of the 990 martyrs and Scenes from the life of St. Thomas Aquinas). Gothic *Pulpit from the convent -church at Uden (end of the 15th cent.) ; small wooden figure of the Emperor Henry IV. from the church of St. Mary at Utrecht ; window copied from the church at Hulst ( 15th cent. ) . In the N. Section the painting is copied from St. James's Church at Utrecht and the Bovenkerk at Kampen. Engraved copper-tablets from the tomb of Gysbert Willemsz de Raet ( d . 1505) in the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Gouda ; stone * Tabernacle of the 15th cent. ; window from the tower of the church at Ransdorp (beginning of the 16th cent. ) ; two figures of saints. – Two Cases contain ecclesiastical vessels, chiefly of the 15th cent.; adjacent an aqua manilla and holy water basin of the 12th or 13th century. Room 168. * Reproduction of the chapel of the Cistercian convent at Aduard, in the province of Groningen, a brick edifice of the 19th century . The green glazed bricks, with flowers in relief, should be noticed . The wall - painting is copied from the church of St. Martin - des - Champs at Paris, the angels above the E. door from the church of St. Gereon at Cologne, and the stained glass from patterns of the 13th century. retrace our steps through Rooms 167 and 166 to Room 165. Church Architecture of the 17th cent., in the style of the Protestant churches designed by Hendrik de Keyser ( d. 1621) and Vrede man de Vries . On the walls , copies of wall- paintings from the chapels of SS. Cosmas and Damian and St. Severus, in the church of St. Law rence at Rotterdam . The stained - glass windows are reproductions of those in the Oosterkerk at Hoorn, the first shewing the arms of Alkmaar ( 1573) , the second representing the sea - fight of Hoorn between the Dutch and the Spaniards in 1573. The N. E. window (opposite) from the convent of St. Agatha , has a kneeling portrait of Prince Maurice of Orange. The S.E. window is from the Protestant church at Oostburg. Carved wood pulpit of 1777; model of the organ of the church in the Stroomarkt at Amsterdam before the fire of 1823 . Stand with artistic iron-work. The following rooms are devoted to Secular Architecture, and include a highly interesting series of apartments in the old Dutch style. Rooms 164, 163. Council Chamber, of the end of the 14th cent., the ceiling being an exact copy of that in the town-hall of We Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM. 42. Route. 313 Sluis , dating from 1396. .Cast of a chimney - piece ( 15th cent. ) , formerly in the castle and now in the town -hall at Bergen - op- Zoom . Large Gothic cupboard , from a convent in Utrecht (14th cent. ) ; above, two pieces of tapestry, with landscapes (17th cent. ) . In the centre is a valuable Collection of Earthenware, formed by J. P. Six and the Royal Antiquarian Society , with numerous excellent spe cimens from Dutch and Rhenish factories. Two Gothic cabinets, etc. Above the entrance is a relief of the Flight into Egypt (15th cent. ) . Rooms 162 , 161. Magistrates' Room of the 15th cent . , arranged in imitation of a room in the Town Hall at Zwolle, built by Master Berend in 1447. The chimney - piece, in trachyte from the Drachen fels, was designed by Master Hermann of Cologne . The balustrade round the latter is adorned with original heads ( lions, dogs, etc. , as shield -bearers), from the ancient Dutch court at the Hague, founded by Charles the Bold . On the walls, Flemish tapestry , from the end of the 15th to the second half of the 16th century . Case 1 (to the left ): Brass , copper, and bronze articles ; weights , jugs, and other domestic utensils; snuff -boxes, lanterns , lamps, candle sticks , Case 2 : Smith's work of the 16-17th cent. ; two bronze door knockers of about 1550. – Case 3 : Tinware ; jugs, tankards, table utensils , etc. — Case 4 : Caskets in wood, leather, plush , intarsia , etc. from the 15th cent. onwards . German tiled stove of the latter half of the 16th century. - Gothic cabinets, etc. Room 158. On the walls are representations of Scriptural scenes, formed of plaques of Delft porcelain . To the right and left are double - portals of the 17th cent., in carved wood, painted green . The adjoining room, to the right (kitchen ), contains a fine spiral Staircase from Cologne (end of the 17th cent. ), domestic and kitchen utensils, and wall - panelling in Delft porcelain . A modern wrought -iron door leads to

• Room 157, in which are the collections of Glass and Jewelry.

On the walls valuable tapestry by Jan de Maecht of Middelburg and representations in Delft porcelain . Glass- cases 1& 2. Electrotype reproductions by Messrs. Elkington and Co. ( England) of gold and silver works of art. Case 3 (hexagonal revolving stand) , in the corner to the left : Limoges and other enamels, 12-17th cent.; miniatures. – On a table is a silver monumentin honour of the Herring Fishery, by Andreas Müller of Vlaar dingen ( 1793 ). Case 4 : Silver work of foreign workmanship , mainly German (Augsburg, Nuremberg, and Strassburg) of the 16-17th centuries. * Five reliefs with scenes from the life of General Spinola, by Matth . Melin ( c . 1630).- On the wall between the windows , porcelain tiles from Rotter dam (17th cent . ) . Case 5 : Silver Plate and other valuables belonging to the city of Am sterdam , formerly preserved in the Stadhuis; drinking-horns, including the fine silver drinking-horn of the guild of St. Joris , which appears in Van der Helst's painting of the Banquet of Arquebusiers ( p . 321) ; silver drinking-horn of the Guild of St. Sebastian , which appears in Van der Helst's painting of the presidents of the Guild ( p . 319); corporation chains and batons ; five silver -gilt stands for tumblers (1606 ) ; ornamental *Dish and goblet, by Adam van Vianen ( 1664 ), etc. 314 Route 42. AMSTERDAM . Ryks Museum . a

• Case 6, with an extensive and valuable collection of silver -work of the 13th and subsequent centuries. -By the window , two cases with peasant's ornaments , gold and silver filigree. To the right : * Atlas sup porting the globe, in embossed silver by P. van Vianen ( 1610 ). Beside

it , The Seasons, miniatures by Blarenberghe ; *Table- top of black stone inlaid with mother-of-pearl by Jan Visscher.

• Case 7 ( in the corner between the windows), a hexagonal revolving case, contains Small Works of Art. Sides 1-3 : Oriental weapons and

trinkets , richly adorned with pearls and gems . Sides 4 & 5 : European gems, watches, gold articles , enamels. Dutch spoons, forks, etc. (chiefly of the 17th cent.) ; charms, needle -cases, cork - screws; book - clasps, shoe buckles; infants' rattles , rosaries , knife-handles, etc. Side 5 : Silver articles ; Holy Family by Paul van Vianen ( 1611) , etc. Side 6 : Official insignia and guild badges of the 17th and 18th centuries. Case 8 : Glass . Dutch goblets of the 17th cent .; painted German goblets ; Dutch chased and gilded beakers, etc. Case 9 : Venetian and Bohemian glass, and Dutch imitations.

• Case 10 : Dutch glass with designs cut or engraved with a diamond,

chiefly of the 17th and 18th cent. , including good examples of Wolf, w. van Heemskerk, etc. Case 11 (hexagonal revolving stand ). Small works of art in gold and silver ; spoons, knives , chains, etc. — Beside the two centre pillars : Cases with trinkets , watches, filigree -work , boxes, etc. Cases 12 & 13 : Cut glass, used for gifts, etc .; on a black stand in the centre is the so - called ' Hedwig's Cup', said to date from the 13th cent.; cut and moulded glass of a less elaborate kind. At the exit , handsome Renaissance cabinet, with relief of the Cruci fixion , probably Italian work of the 16th century. Room 150 represents an Apartment of the 17th cent. , completely furnished, with chimney - piece, beds, etc. At the window is a small ebony cabinet, a German work of 1631 ; another, with miniatures, opposite the entrance , dates from 1600. In the centre is a glass- case with terracotta figures of the 17th and 18th centuries . Stained glass of 1600. Room 150a (to the left ). Bedroom of the 17th century. Room 156 (badly lighted ) . Wall-panelling in variegated and blue Delft plaques (17th cent.). Handsome cupboards , copper vessels, etc. Room 155. Wall- panelling and chimney -piece from Dordrecht ( 1626) . The ceiling (Morning and Evening, probably by Theod . van der Schuer, about 1678 ) is from the bedchamber of Queen Mary of England, consort of William III, formerly in the Binnen hof at the Hague. Gilt - leather hangings and other furniture of the same period . Baptism of Christ, painted after 1540 in the style of Jan van Scorel. Room 154. Panelling and chimney - piece from the early half of the 17th cent.; ceiling from the apartments of the Princess Anna, wife of William II. , at the Hague. Gilt-leather hangings and other furniture of the same period . Room 153 represents an apartment in the house of Constantin Huygens, built by Jacob van Campen in 1634-37, in the style of Louis XIV. The ceiling, by G. de Lairesse of Amsterdam, repre sents Apollo and Aurora. Room 152. Ceiling from the old palace of the Stadtholders at 7 Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 42. Route . 315 Leeuwarden (latter half of the 17th cent . ) ; leather hangings , can delabra, etc. , of the early 18th century . Glass-case with clothes worn by Prince Ernest Casimir, Henry Casimir, William Frederick of Nassau, and William III. of England. Various other historical curiosities. - CABINET 152a (adjoining ). Chinese Boudoir from the Stadtholder's palace at Leeuwarden ( latter half of the 17th cent . ) . Room 151. Ceiling (apotheosis of a prince) of the end of the 17th century . Gilt-leather hangings and chimney - piece of the 18th century. Thrones of various stadtholders, Room 146. Oriental weapons. Case with antique bronzes. Room 147 is in the Gothic style of the 15th century. Panelling, wall-presses , and chimney-piece from Utrecht. By the wall , on the right, are ten bronze figures belonging to the city of Amsterdam . Fine Gothic cupboards; antique copper dishes, candelabra, etc. Room 148. Chimney - piece in the Renaissance style ofthe close of the 16th cent.; the caryatides are copied from figures at Zalt bommel , dating from the beginning of the 18th century. The glass- case in the centre contains good wood-carvings of the 15– 17th centuries . Room 149. Renaissance panelling and chimney - piece (middle of the 16th cent . ). The central glass- case contains ivory carvings. On the walls and in the recesses are works of art in porcelain , wax , etc. , including large Delft plaques in Wouverman's style ( c. 1660). We now return through Rooms 148 , 147, and 146 to the hall and the E, entrance (p. 309) . The WESTERN HALF OF THE GROUND- FLOOR. The Western main entrance also gives admission in the first place to a Hall, embellished with statues of Peace , Wealth , and Industrial Art. We turn to the right and enter Room 203, which contains the important and valuable collection of Porcelain and Lacquer Work. The glass -stands at the window contain Italian Majolica, farther on Delft Faïence, and (last glass - case) Chinese Imitations of Delft Porcelain . The three central rows of glass -cases contain Chinese Porcelain , the most interesting specimens being: Case 2 of the first row , series of reddish brown ‘ Bucaro' Porcelain ; Case 1 , of the second row, Porcelain decorated with enamel resembling reliefs ; Cases 1 and 2 of the third row , Blue, Green , Crackle, and Red Porcelain , and in Case 3, Chinese Imitations of European porcelain . Farther on , Japanese Porcelain ; specimens of the so- called Royal Blue Porcelain in the Case 5 of the third row ; to the left of the entrance , group of large Chinese and Japanese vases; behind, silk hangings with Chinese patterns (European work of the 18th cent.). - To the right and left of the door is Tunisian Earthen -ware; above, Brussels tapestry, of the end of the 18th century. The presses by the S. wall contain Berlin, Dresden , French , and English porcelain, etc. -Several glass- cases in the central rows contain a large collection of Japanese Lacquer Work. In the passage by the N. (window ) wall are three models of Dutch houses, one of which, inlaid with tortoise-shell, of the end of the 17th cent., is said to have been constructed for Peter the Great; a ' Penningkastje' in the form of the Mauritshuis at the Hague (p . 262) ; glass-case with Chinese ivory carvings ; Chinese tower in alabaster, etc. Room 202. Collection of Costumes (17-19th cent. ) ; costly 316 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum, 1 priests' vestments of the beginning of the 16th cent. ; toys, etc .; models of post-chaises, etc.; musical instruments of the 16-19th cent. , including a metronome, formerly in the possession of the Felix Meritis society. Adjoining this room on the S. is the

• Cabinet of Engravings ( Prentencabinet ), which contains an extensive and highly valuable collection, chiefly of works by Rem brandt and his contemporaries and pupils. The collection com prises about 150,000 plates , more than 400 albums with complete series of the works of different masters , about 400 drawings, a

historical atlas of the Netherlands , and a large number of portraits (presented by Mr. D. Franken ). The Director is Mr. Ph. van der Kellen . The finest and rarest engravings are exhibited round the columns and on stands (the arrangement is frequently changed ). The Library , to the S. of the Cabinet of Engravings, occupies a projecting wing and extends through all three stories , the com munication being maintained by an elegant iron staircase. The upper rooms contain two Collections of Coins (open daily except Mon. 10 to 4 or 5 ; Sun. 12.30-4) . Adjoining the Cabinet of Engravings on the E. , is the Admirals ' Room ( No. 189 ; badly lighted ), subdivided into ten cabinets, and containing portraits of naval heroes , pictures of sea - fights, etc. (chiefly dating from the 17th century ). South SIDE. To the right : 500. Hilligaert, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange at the siege of Breda (1637) ; 589. Dutch School (17th cent.), Coast at Scheveningen ; 74. J. A.Beerstraaten , Naval battle between the Dutch and English in 1666 ; 1033. R. Nooms, Sea -fight near Leghorn , 1653 ; 1003. J. A. Mytens, Naval officer. 1594. S. Vrancx, Siege of Wachten donk by the Spaniards in 1600; 843. J. Lingelbach , Sea- fight near Leghorn, 1653. - 875, 874. J. Lievens, Admiral Tromp and his third wife ; 1034a- d. R. Nooms, Viewsof Algiers, Syracuse, Tangiers, and Tunis ; 763. Th. de Keyser , Admiral Piet Hein ; 1508. W. van de Velde the Younger, Captured English ships , June 13th , 1666 ; 1092. J. Peeters, Destruction of the English fleet at Chatham in 1667; 135. F. Bol, Admiral Michiel de Ruyter (?) ; 472. B. van der Helst, Admiral Kortenaar ; 1507. W. van de Velde the Younger, Naval engagement between the Dutch and English, June 11-14th , 1666 ; 1001, 1002. J. A. Mytens, Admiral Tromp and his wife. 1166. J. van Ravesteyn, Col. Nicolaas Smeltzing ; H. de Meyer , 915. Surrender of the town of Hulst in 1645, no number, Departure of the Spaniards from Breda in 1637; 1491. E. van de Velde, Departure of the Spaniards from Bois-le -Duc after its surrender in 1629. Next follow 50 small portraits of princes of the House of Orange-Nagsan and generals of the 16th and 17th centuries . 470 , 471. B. van der Helst, Admiral Aart van Nes and his wife ; J. van Ravesteyn, 1165. Vice - Admiral van Cats, 1183. Gaspard Coligny ; 40. L. Bakhuysen , Embarkation of the Grand -Pensionary Jan de Witt; 108. H. Berckmans, Admiral Adriaen Banckert ; 737, 738. L. de Jongh, 'Vice-Admiral Jan van Nes and his wife ; 1597. H. Č . Vroom, Naval battle near Gibraltar, 1607. - 71. K. Beelt, Dutch herring - fleet ; 1572. S. de Vlieger , Naval battle between the Dutch and Span iards on the Slaak , 1631 ; 1127, 1128. F. Post, Count John Maurice of Nassau -Siegen , Stadtholder of Brazil ( fine carved frame), Brazilian land scape ; 69. A. Beeckman , Jacatra (now Batavia) on the island of Java ; 1599. H , C. Vroom, Return of Houtman, the traveller, 1597. Then follow some modern paintings, including : 1323. M. Schouman , Expedition to Palembang (Sumatra) in 1819 ; no number , F. Post, Brazilian landscape. 1321. Schouman, Expedition to Boulogne in 1804 ; C. van GROUND PLANOF THE RIJKS MUSEUMAT AMSTERDAM GROUND FLOOR 191 ibrary Netherlands Museum TUMA 168186 190 AN 197 Ecclesiastical Section 188 Oudheid lutig Genootschap Admirals' Room 176 8• EcclesiasticalSection 171 172 173 175 17+ 189 ravin East Cour West Court East211 West 209 163164 Naval, Military& Colonial Plaster Casts Carriage Way Collection 161 Secular Architecture 162 a fb. • of . 1583 156 155 15 153 152 Domestic Objects the of 150 151 203 157 202 16-18+: Centuries 140| 14687 East Main Entrance west MUSEUM ATMSTERDAM GROUND PLAN OFTHE RIJKS FIRSTLOOR GALLERY PICTURE LibraryWatch Oright Carlo Masters Intenational Room Yingian of SENIE Depot 228Dutch 235 159,16 the Room 826 Rembrandt Room 260 Oudheid kundig benootschap 2+8 thel Pictures from Haarlem Paviljoen 243 255 & 17th Cent 244 A E244 261227 East Modern Art Society for West245 B 245 F Dupper Room 226 262 Corporation & Regent Pieces Gallery of Honour 263 Van dePo Room 225 246 C G246 Modern Pictures JIMO 222 265 THEME D247 H247 Museum van Hoop der Portrait Room 269 214 Pieces Anatomical 268 Dutch Cabinet Piecles 219 Lente 17 215 Duniah Caoimet Pieces Cenkt.2 ..271 274 17th 270 Vestibule 212 Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 317 Cuylenburg, 248. Rear-Admiral Willem Crul, 250. Vice - Admiral Zoutman , 249. Vice- Admiral van Capellen ; N. Bauer', 66. Burning of the Algerian fleet; 68. Bombardment of Algiers by night; 169. F. de Brakeleer, Antwerp citadel after the bombardment in 1832 ; 761a . G. L. Keultjes, Attack on Algiers by the combined English and Dutch fleet in 1816 ; N. Bauer, 05 . Arrival of the combined fleet in the bay of Algiers, 67. Dutch sloops helping the English flagship 'Queen Charlotte ' ( 1816) ; ' 1103. J. W. Piene mann, General Baron Chassé ( p. 139); 456. A. C. Hauck, Vice- Admiral Soutman ; 1322. Schouman, Bombardment of Algiers by the united English and Dutch fleet in 1816 ; 1357. W. Spinny , Vice - Admiral H. Lynslager ; 1339. E. Sillemans, Dutch harbour with ships (pen -and - ink sketch ) ; w . van de Velde the Elder (pen -and -ink sketches) , 1505. Sea -piece, with Dutch men -of -war; 1501. Naval battle in the Sound ; 1498. Naval battle near Duins in 1639; 1499. Naval battle near Dunkirk in 1639 ; 12. Aert Antum , Dutch and English ships attacking the Spanish Armada near Dover, 1583 ; 631. J. van Diest (? ), The ' Royal Charles ' , a captured English_flag-ship , being brought into harbour, 1666 ; no number, L. Bakhuysen , Zuiderzee ; 1091. B. Peeters, Roadstead of Flushing; W. van de Velde the Elder (pen and - ink sketches), 1503. Embarkation of Admiral Tromp ; 1502. Expedition to Chatham in 1667 ; 1501. Naval battle near Terheide in 1653 ; 1500. Naval battle near Leghorn in 1653 ; 1495. Sea- piece. W. van de Velde the Elder, 1496. Naval engagement between the English and Dutch, June 11-14th, 1666 ; 1494. Same subject; 1598. H. C. Vroom , The Y at Amsterdam ; 1632. A. Willaerts, Naval battle near Gibraltar in 1607. - 1658. P. Wouverman , Storming of Koevorden in 1672 ; 786. J. Koedyck, Admiral Loncq (?) ; no number, D. van der Plaes, Admiral Tromp. From the Admirals’ Room we next enter two rooms ( Nos. 188 and 186 on the Plan ) occupied by the Antiquarian Society (Oud heidkundig Genootschap) . The fine old furniture of these rooms dates from the 17th cent., and they also contain gilt-leather hang ings, tapestry, porcelain , and a few paintings. Among the last are : View of Egmont Castle , with numerous figures ( 16th cent. ); portrait of Burgomaster Pieter Dirksz of Edam ( 1583), conspicuous for his bushy beard ; a colossal prize ox , by Jacob Cornelisz van Oostzaan ; and portraits of the 17th century. We now descend the staircase to the West Court , which contains the Collection of Casts , from Dutch works of art . In the centre: S. portal of the church of St. Servatius at Maastricht (6th cent. ?) ; tomb of Count Engelbert of Nassau and his wife Limburg of Baden ( 16th cent. ) ; choir - stalls from St. Martin's church at Bolswaard ( Gothic ; 15th cent . ) and the church at Dordrecht (Renaissance ; 16th cent. ) ; choir -screen from the Westerkerk at Enkhuizen (Renaissance ; 16th cent . ) ; tomb of Joh. de Borgniwal from the great church at Breda ( 1536 ); above, colossal organ from the Lutheran church at Amsterdam , with wood -carv ings and paintings by Th. Tidemand . Farther on , to the right, the so called Holy Sepulchre from the cathedral at Utrecht (Gothic ; 15th cent . ) . By the N. wall: Sedilia from the upper church at Kampen (13th cent.). Organs from the church at Scheemda ( 16th cent . ) and the church of St. Ni cholas at Utrecht (end of the 15th cent . ) . Tombstones of Siegfried III. of Eppstein , archbishop of Mayence , and William II . of Holland ( 13th cont.). By the S. wall are some compartments of the Renaissance ceiling of the château of Jever ; adjacent , part of the front gable of the town hall at the Hague ( 16th cent.). Then, an interesting collection of acroteria , including some good works by Hendrik de Keyser (17th cent . ) ; and the small red terracotta *Models of the sculptures on the Stadhnis ( p. 300) by the gifted sculptor A. Quellinus , which are much superior to the marble reproductions. 318 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum. FIRST FLOOR. The staircases in the E. and W. vestibules lead to the first floor, which is almost entirely occupied by the **Gallery of Paintings (Schilderyenverzameling), the finest in Holland. The gallery was founded by King Louis Napoleon , who caused those works of art belonging to the Prince of Orange which had not been removed to Paris to be collected in the Huis ten Bosch at the Hague (p. 276) , and afterwards to be taken to Amsterdam when his residence was transferred to that city in 1808. The collection has since been greatly increased by purchases, gifts , and bequests. On the building of the new museum the modern pictures in the Pavilion at Haarlem and the collections (corporation- pieces , etc.) in the Stadhuis , the Huiszittenhuis, the Museum van der Hoop, etc. , were united with the royal collection . The gallery now con tains about 1700 works. The director is Mr. Fr. D. 0. Obreen (p . 309) . The illustrated catalogue , by A. Bredius ( 1 fl. ), and pho tographs of the principal paintings are sold in the vestibule . The large VESTIBULE, 130 ft. long, which we enter first, is adorned with fine stained-glass windows, executed by W. J. Dixon of London. The three middle windows refer to the chief periods of Painting, Architecture, and Sculpture , and the two side windows to the oth Arts and to Science, while the twelve upper panes represent the various professions and trades . The walls are to be adorned with historical paintings. The tasteful painted deco ration of the vestibule is repeated in the apartments destined for the pictures. From the Vestibule we first enter the large Hall of HONOUR, which occupies the central portion of the building , and is divided into eight cabinets by short partitions on both sides . To the right. CABINET 1. (No. 247 H.). To the right, 474 . Barth . van der Helst , Gerard Bicker , Judge of Muiden ; 1280. Dirck Santvoort, Dirck Bas, Burgomaster of Amsterdam, and his family ; 136. F. Bol, Mother and children ; 473. Van der Helst, Andreas Bicker, Burgomaster of Amsterdam ; 131 , 132. Zacharias Blyhooft, Burgomaster Leidecker and his wife; 1401. Van den Tempel , Portrait ; 660. Melch . d'Hondecoeter, The philosophical magpie ; 1283 , 1284. Dirck Santvoort , Portraits of a boy and girl ; 31. J. A. Backer , Six Regents of the Huiszittenhuis ; 661. Honde coeter, Courtyard ; 1402. Abruham van den Tempel, Portrait ; 459 . J. D. de Heem , Flowers and fruit ; 961. A. Mignon, Bouquet of flowers ; 137. F. Bol, The lesson ; 586, 587. Jan van Ravesteyn (?), Portraits. CABINET 2 (246 G. ). To the right , 400. J. Glauber , Diana at the bath ; *441. Frans Hals, The artist and his wife in a garden ; 399 , J. Glauber, Mercury and Io ; 676. G. Honthorst, Mocking of Christ ; 1463-67. W. van Valckert, Five scenes from the poor -house of Amsterdam (beginning of the 17th cent. ) ; 1605. J. Weenix, Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 319 Country-house ; 879. J. Lyon , Company of Capt. Jacob Pietersz Hooghkamer.

• 665 . Melchior d'Hondecoeter , Pelican , ducks, and peacock ,

known as “ la plume flottante ' . No one has painted cocks and hens, ducks and drakes, and especially chickens , so perfectly as Melchior d'Hondecoeter. He paints such fami lies with insight and sympathy, as Italians paint the mystical Holy Fa mily ; he expresses the mother-love of a hen as Raphael expresses the mother -love of a Madonna .... Of the eight pictures by Hondecoeter in the Museum of Amsterdam , the floating feather is the most famous . The faintest breath of wind would blow it away '. Burger. Musées de la Hollande. 767. Thomas de Keyser, Company of Capt. Allart Cloeck . CABINET 3 ( 245 F.). To the right, 468. B. van der Helst, Four presidents of the St. Sebastian Arquebusiers , seated at a table and examining the plate belonging to the guild ; to their left is a maid -servant, carrying a large drinking-horn ( 1657; p . 313 ) ; 873. J. Lievens, Peace (allegory). — 669. G. Honthorst, The merry fiddler; 823. G. de Lairesse, Diana and Endymion ; 332. N. Elius, Banquet of Capt. J. Backer's company ; 768. Th. de Keyser, Capt. J. Vries's company; *883. N. Maes, The dreamer ; 289. Cornelius Drost, Daughter of Herodías, with the head of John the Baptist ; 1281. D. Santvoort, Manageresses of the Amsterdam House of Cor rection (1638) ; 335. N. Elias, Four managers of the House of Cor rection, with a beadle ( 1628 ); 365. Govert Flinck, Four officers of the Kloveniersdoelen ( 1642) . CABINET 4. (244 E.). To the right, 142, 143. F. Bol, Managers and Manageresses of the Lepers'Hospital; 438. Jan van der Hagen, Landscape ; 36, 37. Jan de Baen , The ambassador Hieron . van Beverningk and his wife (1673) , in a beautifully carved frame; 337. Elias, Capt. Raephorst and his company ; 769. Th . de Keyser, Dutch family ; 124.H. Bloemaert, Winter (allegory) ; 1506. W.van de Velde the Younger, The Y ( harbour of Amsterdam ); 1530. A. H. Verboem , Landscape . To the left. CABINET 1. (No.244A ). To the right, 252. A. Cuyp, Landscape with cattle ; 1046.J. van Ochtervelt, Regents of theLepers ’ Hospital ; 1282. D. Santvoort, Regent-piece; 409. J. van Goyen, View of Dordrecht ; 342. N. Elias, Portrait ; 971. N. C. Moeyaert, Regent-piece ; 826. C. Lastman and A. van Nieulandt, Arquebusiers on the way to Zwolle to repel the Spaniards, 1623 ; 476. B. van der Helst, Portrait; 273. 8. van der Does, Mother -love; 222. A. Came rarius , Christ and the centurion ; 475. B. van der Helst, Portrait ; 1589. C. van der Voort, Corporation -piece. CABINET 2. (No. 245 B ). To the right, no number, * N . Maes, Grace before meat ; C. van der Voort, Portrait ; * 1227. J. van Ruys dael,Waterfall ; 662. M.d'Hondecoeter,Duck -pond ;663. M.d’Honde coeter , Hen protecting its chickens ; 970. M. Moeyaert, Choosing a suitor ; 361. G. Flinck, Isaac blessing Jacob . —*362. Govert Flink , Arquebusiers of Amsterdam celebrating the conclusion of the Peace ។ 320 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum . of Westphalia (161/2 ft. by 81/2 ft 2 . ) , the artist's greatest work, painted in 1648. The scene is divided into two groups : the figures to the left, nine in all , are issuing from the guild -house ; at their head, in black velvet, with a white scarf, is Captain Jan Huidecoper van Maarseveen ; behind him is Ensign Nicolaas van Waveren . At the door is the artist himself. At the other side of the picture are eleven figures, headed by Lieutenant Frans van Waveren , dressed in black , with a blue scarf , who appears to be congratulating the captain . 664. D'Hondecoeter, Menagerie ; 814. G. van der Kuyl, Musical party ; 1606. J. Weenix , Game and fruit; 359. B. Fabritius, Por trait of the architect Van der Helm , with his wife and child ; 140. F. Bol, Daughter of Herodias ; *1607. J. Weenix, Game. CABINET 3. (No. 246 C ). To the right, 407. J. van Goyen, View of the Valkenhof at Nymegen ; *91 . N. Berchem , The ferry ; no number, J. Hogers, Meeting of Jacob and Esau ; *366a. G. Flinck (formerly ascribed to Rembrandt), Portrait of Receiver-General Jan Vytenbogaert (?) ; 820, 821. G. de Lairesse, Mars, Venus, and Cupid ; above , 353. C. van Everdingen, Portrait ; 405. J. van Goyen, River scene; 1313. J. van Schooten , Adoration ofthe Magi ; 333. N. Elias, Arquebusiers ; 926. M. Mierevelt, Portrait of the author Jacob Cats : 75. J. Beerstraaten , Ruins of the old town-hall at Amsterdam after the conflagration of 1652 ; 33. J. de Baen, Portrait of Jan de Witt ; 92. N. Berchem, Boaz and Ruth . CABINET 4. (No. 247 D ). To the right, 1132. Paul Potter, Bear- hunt, much damaged ; 27. A. Backer, Portrait; 466. H. Heer schop, Discovery of Erichthonius by the daughters of Cecrops; 1538. L. Verschuier, Arrival of Charles II . of England at Rotterdam ; 634. S. van Hoogstraten ( ?), Corporation -piece from Dordrecht; 264. C. Delff, Poultry -dealer; 830. A. Leemans, Still- life ; 1611. J. B. Weenix, Game ; 84. A. van Beyeren, Fish. - Wenow enter the

• REMBRANDT Room (No. 243) , devoted to the great painter Rembrandt Harmensz van Ryn ( b. at Leyden in 1607 , d. at Am sterdam in 1669). The glass roof is supported by figures of the four periods of the day standing upon colossal marble columns .

The frieze shows the chief dates in Rembrandt's life . Opposite the entrance : ** 1246 Rembrandt's so-called Night Watch , painted in 1642, the master's largest and most celebrated work (11 by 14 ft.), placed almost touching the ground so as greatly to enhance the appearance of energetic movement. It represents Captain Frans Banning Cocq's company of arquebusiers emerging from their guild- house (' doele' ) on the Singel, where the picture was preserved till the beginning of the 18th century. Comp . p . lv. In the middle , in front, marches the captain in a dark brown , almost black costume, at his side Lieutenant Willem van Ruitenberg in a yellow buffalo jerkin , both figures in the full sunlight, so that the shadow of the captain's hand is distinctly traceable on the jerkin. On the right hand of the captain are an arquebusier putting on his weapon and two children, of whom the one in front , a gaily -attired girl , has a dead cock hanging from her girdle (perhaps one of the prizes). On a step behind them is the flay-bearer Jan Visser Cornelissen . The other side of the picture is 7 Ryks Museum AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 321 or pervaded with similar life and spirit, from the lieutenant to the drummer Jan van Kampoort at the extreme corner , who energetically beats his drum to urge on the company . In an oval frame on a column in the background are inscribed the names of the members of the guild . The remarkable chiaroscuro of the whole picture has led to the belief that Rembrandt intended to depict a nocturnal scene, but the event represented really takes place in daylight, the lofty vaulted hall of the guild being lighted only by windows above, to the left, not visible to the spectator, and being therefore properly obscured in partial twilight. The peculiar light and the spirited action of the picture elevate this group of portraits into a most effective dramatic scene , which ever since its creation has been enthusiastically admired by all connoisseurs of art . This picture should be seen late in the afternoon (admission in summer till 5 p.m.), as the light then suits it best. The painting was successfully cleaned by Hopman in 1889. To the right of the Night Watch : * 724 . Karel du Jardin , Five directors of the House of Correction sitting and standing at a table , and a servant, 1669. The connoisseur will be surprised to find this fine corporation - picture painted by the well- known painter of pastoral subjects.

• 467. Bartholomeus van der Helst, ' De Schuttersmaaltyd' ,

Banquet of the Arquebusiers (“schutters') of Amsterdam , who on 18th June, 1648, are celebrating the conclusion of the Peace of Westphalia in the St. Jorisdoele, or shooting - gallery of St. George. The twenty - five ' schutters', life-size portraits, are sitting or standing around a richly-furnished table in brisk and joyous mood. In the right corner is Captain Wits , in black velvet with a blue sash , holding a silver drinking -cup (the original now in the Dutch Museum , p . 313) in one hand, and pregenting the other to Lieutenant van Waveren , who wears a handsome pearl- grey doublet , richly brocaded with gold. In the centre of the picture is the ensign Jacob Banning , while to the left a number of other arquebusiers are seen drinking and chatting. The heads are marvellously life- like, and the drawing bold and minutely correct . The details are perhaps more to be admired than the aggregate effect , which is somewhat marred by the uniformly distributed light and the want of contrast. The hands are strikingly true to nature and characteristic of their owners, and it has been not inaptly remarked that if they were all thrown together in a heap there would be no difficulty in restoring them to the figures to which they respectively belong. Comp. p. lvii . 364. G. Flinck , Company of Capt. Albert Bas ( 1645 ); 1279. J. van Sandrart, Company of Capt. van Swieten, acting as escort to Queen Maria de' Medici ( 1638 ). — * 477. B. van der Helst, Cor poration-piece of thirty - two figures (1639) ; in point of size and careful colouring it surpasses the Schuttersmaaltyd (opposite). To the left of the Night Watch : * 444. F. Hals ( completed by Pieter Codde ), Capt. Reynier Reael's Company of Arquebusiers (the ' Lean Company' ), an admirable and characteristic work , full of life and vigour, painted in 1637. A desk near the entrance contains the so- called “ Golden Book' , con taining the record of the opening of the Museum and intended to receive the signatures of exalted visitors . We next proceed to the left to the E. half of the first floor, pass ing through the CARLOVINGIAN Room (No. 236), an imitation of the building said to have been raised by Charlemagne over the W. chapel of St. Servatius at Maastricht (p . 219), and then enter the BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. 21 322 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum . INTERNATIONAL Room (No. 235) . To the right ( S. wall), Fle mish School : no number, M.de Vos, Susanna; 1406. D. Teniers the Younger, Village tavern ; 742. J. Jordaens, The tribute-money (Matt. xvII. 27 ); no number, Alex. Adriaensen, Fish ; 209. J. Brue ghel, Landscape; 309. A. van Dyck, Nicolas van der Borcht, an Antwerp merchant ; 741. Jordaens, Faun ; G. de Crayer, 244. Ado ration of the Shepherds, 245. Descent from the Cross ; 1630. J. Wildens, View of Antwerp from the landward side ( 1635 ; an in teresting work) ; 307. Van Dyck, Prince William II. of Orange and his wife Mary Stuart (1641), daughter of King Charles I.; 370. F. Francken , Abdication of Charles V., at Brussels, 1555 ; 1404. D. Teniers the Younger, Guard ; 1338. G. Seghers , Christ and the peni tents ; 895. Malo, Jesus in the house of Lazarus . Opposite, on the N.wall : 1222. Rubens (?) , Caritas Romana; 1344. Franz Sny ders , Dead gameand vegetables ; 1245. D. Ryckaert III. , Shoe maker's bench ;1353.J.Spilberg, Corporation -banquet; 1221. Rubens, Bearing of the Cross ; 53 a. Peeter Balten (of Antwerp ; d. about 1600), St. Martin's fair . Italian School (same wall): 202. Cristofano Allori (Bronzino) , Ju dith with the head of Holofernes ; 225. Caravaggio, Death of Orion; 715. Lanfranco, John the Baptist ; 1431. Garofalo, Adoration of the Magi ; 716. School of Ferrara, Marriage of the Virgin (ca. 1530). French School (at the end of the room adjoining the Carlovin gian Room ) : 24. J. A. J. Aved , Stadtholder William IV . (1751 ) ; N. Bertin, 115. Joseph and Potiphar’s Wife, 116. Susannah at the 166. S. Bourdon , Marriage of St. Catharine ; 1143, 1144 . Gaspard Poussin (Dughet) , Landscapes. Spanish School (at the other end of the room) : 996. Murillo, Annunciation ; 714. German School of the 17th cent . ( formerly as cribed to Ribera), Earthly vanity ; 1352. Spanish School (ca. 1650 ; formerly ascribed to Velasquez ), The Infante Charles Balthasar, son of Phillip IV. of Spain. Room OF THE EARLY NETHERLANDISH MASTERS ( No. 228 ). To the right, 528. Dutch School (1st half of the 15th cent.), Life of Christ ( 18 scenes ); 541. Dutch School ( first half of the 16th cent. ), Adonis; 297. German School (ca. 1530) , The prophetess Anna in the Temple ; 403. Jan Gossaert , surnamed van Mabuse, Philip of Burgundy , Bishop of Utrecht ; 1418. Cornelis Teunissen , Cor poration - piece (1559) ; * 761. Master of the Death of the Virgin (Cologne ; 1512-30) , Portrait ; 525. Dutch School ( 14th cent. ), Picture in memory of the Sieurs de Montfort, who fell in 1345 while fighting the Frisians ; 719. Dirck Jacobsz, Corporation - piece; 1628. School of Roger van der Weyden , Descent from the Cross ; 533, Flemish School(1490-1500), Adoration of the Magi ; 57. Dirck Ba rents% , Corporation -piece (1564) ; 526, 527. Dutch School (15th cent.), Jacqueline of Bavaria and her husband Franck van Borselen ; 1419. Cornelis Teunissen , Corporation - piece (1557) ; 532. Dutch bath ; > 7 > Ryks Museum. AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 323 School (second half of the 15th cent. ) , Virgin and Child , with ss . Barbara, Cecilia, Theresa, and Catharine; 529. Dutch School ( 15th cent. ) , Salvator Mundi; 373. French School (c. 1550 ), Emp. Charles V.; no number, Jacob Cornelisz , Portrait; 241. J. Cornelisz, Saul and the Witch of Endor ( 1526) ; 58. Barentsz , Corporation-piece (1566) ; 382. Geertgen van St. Jans (Haarlem , end of the 15th cent.), Allegory of the Atonement; 1564. Flemish School (ca. 1500) , Crucifixion, with saints ; 902. Old Copy of Quinten Massys, Virgin and Child ; 545. Dutch School (16th cent.) , Buffoon ; 718. D. Ja cob8% , Corporation - piece (1563) ; 547. Dutch School ( second half of the 16th cent. ), Corporation-piece ; Jan van Scorel ( Schooreel), 1333. Solomon and the Queen of Sheba, 1334. David and Bath sheba , 1332. Corporation - piece; 535. Dutch School (c . 1530), Wings of a triptych , with the donors. Few of the old pictures in this room can be assigned with certainty to definite names . In the middle are six *Altarpieces by unknown masters , of the end of the 15th and the beginning of the 16th century. NETHERLANDISH SCHOOL OF THE 16TH CENT. ( No. 227 ). To the right, 2. P. Aertsen, Egg - dance ; 1570. Flemish School ( second half of the 16th cent.) , Lucretia and Tarquin ; 1568, 1567. Flemish School ( ca. 1600) , Portraits of the Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia and her husband the Archduke Albert of Austria ; 375. French School (16th cent.), Emp. Charles V.; 1565 , 1566. Flemish School (ca. 1600 ), Philip III. of Spain and Anna of Austria , his fourth wife; 755, 756 (?) . Cornelis Ketel, Corporation -pieces; 1569. Fle mish School (2nd half of the 16th cent.), Joseph and Potiphar's wife; 463. M. van Heemskerck , Resurrection. 1660. J. A. Wite wael, David and Abigail (1597 ) ; 1111. A. Pietersen , Six syndies of the cloth-hall at Amsterdam (1599); *435 C. van Haerlem , Adam and Eve ; 401. Goltzius, Dying Adonis.436. Cornelis van Haarlem , Portrait; 759. Corn. Ketel ( ?) , Corporation -piece; 1472-83 . Otho van Veen , Twelve representations from the struggle of the Ba tavians with the Romans (bought by the government in 1613 for 2200 fl. ) ; 1141. Frans Pourbus the Elder, Portrait ; 754, 758. Ketel, Company of Capt. Rosecrans; 56. Barentsz , Duke of Alva ; 911 . Cornelis Metsys, Landscape, with the Prodigal Son ; 5. Pieter Aert sen, Nativity ; 1108. Aert Pietersen , Corporation - piece; 434. Corn. van Haerlem , Massacre of the Innocents; 465. Maerten van Heems kerck, Portrait of Joh . Colman ( ca. 1538). 1331. Jan van Scho reel, Magdalene ; no number, Unknown Artist , Five gentlemen and a lady of Naaldwyk. - In the middle of the room : 4. P. Aertsen , Presentation in the Temple (wing of an altarpiece); 464. M. Heemskerck , Erythræan Sibyl (wing of an altarpiece) . The DUPPER Room (No. 226 ) contains a collection of 64 Dutch paintings, chiefly of the best period ( 17th cent.) , bequeathed to the Museum in 1870 by M. L. Dupper of Dort . To the right, 188 . Q.G. van Brekelenkam , The mouse - trap ; 302. Corn . Dusart, Rustic > van 21 * 324 Route 42 . AMSTERDAM, Ryks Museum. > Elder , 7 festival; 1148. A. Pynacker, Italian scene ; 44. L. Bakhuysen , The Y at Amsterdam ; 1664. Wynants, Landscape ; * 1072. A. van Ostade, Quack ; 251. A. Cuyp , Mountain -scene ; 1346. M. Sorgh , Lute player; 1411. Terburg, Portrait of himself; 1486. A. van de Velde, Landscape; *1365. Jan Steen , Birthday - festival of the Prince of Orange (' Prinsjesdag ”), a tavern scene with numerous figures ; 1412. Terburg, His wife ; 275. G. Dou, The painter smoking a pipe ; 990. Moucheron, Italian garden ; 1236. Sal. van Ruysdael , The halting place ; 170. Brakenburgh , Eve of St. Nicholas ; 1373. Jan Steen, A toper; 1230. J. van Ruysdael, Woodland scene ; 1661. Th. Wyck, Alchemist; 491. W. de Heusch , Wood ; 1579. A. de Vois, Lady and parrot ; 1372. J. Steen, Quack ; 98. J. Berck - Heyde , Town weigh -house at Haarlem ; 20. J. Asselyn ( Krabbetje ), Cavalry en gagement; *506. M.Hobbema, Mill ; 111. D. van den Bergen , Land scape with cattle ; 442. F. Hals , The fool (a copy) ; 159. J. Both, Italian landscape; 97. Verhagen, Landscape, with figures by Ber chem ; 274. 8. van der Does, Landscape with cattle ; above, 815. G. van der Kuyl, Cunning excels strength ; 951. F. van Mieris the Transitoriness; * 1073. A. van Ostade, The baker ; 1229. J. van Ruysdael , Winter- scene; 841. J. Lingelbach, Camp ; 1383. Dirck Stoop, Hunt; 748. J. van Kessel , Woodland scene; 1509 . W. van de Velde the Younger, Calm ; 963. Mignon, Fruit ; 790. Ph. de Koninck, Landscape; 1531. A. Verboom, Cross -roads; 691. S. van Hoogstraten, Portrait; 348. A. van Everdingen, Norwegian land scape ; 408. J. van Goyen , The old oaks (with the yellow lights peculiar to this master) ; 43. L. Bakhuysen, Zuiderzee ; 962. Mig non, Flowers ; 756. Ketel ( ?), Corporation - piece ; 1362. J. A. van Staveren, Schoolmaster; 430. J. Hackaert, Clearing; 1231. J. van Ruysdael, View of Haarlem ; 726. K. du Jardin , Italian landscape, with cattle ; 406. J. van Goyen , The Meuse at Dort ; 1659. Pieter Wouverman , Setting out for the chase ; *1587. C. van der Voort, Managers and Manageresses of the Almshouse in Amsterdam ; * 882. N. Maes, Woman spinning, an admirable work in Rembrandt's man ner ; 1615. A. van der Werff, Entombment; 1110. A. Pietersz, Cor poration - piece ( a fragment); 1347. H.M.Sorgh, Storm on the Meuse, 1666 ; 986. Moucheron, Landscape ; 1213. W. Romeyn , Landscape with cattle ; 1647. Philip Wouverman, Camp. The VAN DE POLL Room ( No. 225 ) contains a collection of 52 Dutch pictures of the 17th cent., bequeathed to the Museum in 1880 by Baron J. S. H. van de Poll. To the right , 1534. Jun Verkolje, Family concert; 1036. J. van Noordt, Portrait; 1588. C. vun der Voort, Regent - piece; 886. N. Maes , Portrait; * 306. A. van Dyck , Portrait ; 1459. W. van Valckert, Corporation - piece; 885. N. Maes, Portrait; 1262. C. Saftleven, Boors in a tavern ; W. van Valckert, 1468. Portrait, 1461. Regents ; 1136. Paul Potter, Landscape with cattle ; 189. Q. Brekelenkum , A confidential con versation . 338, 339. Elias , Portraits ; *1514. W. van de Velde the > Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 325 Younger, Stormy sea ; 1268. H. Saflleven , Hilly landscape ; 334. N. Elias, Corporation - piece; ** 1249. Rembrandt, Elizabeth Bas, widow of Admiral Swartenhont ( one of Rembrandt's best portraits, finished with the greatest care and delicacy) ; * 1513. Van de Velde the Younger, Calm (remarkable for the perspective and the fine effect of the upper atmosphere) ; 1237. 8. van Ruysdael, Village - inn ; 291. H. Dubbels, Still water; 844. N. Maes, Portrait; 765. Th . de Keyser, Portrait ; 102, 103. G. Berck - Heyde, Views of Amsterdam ; Hondecoeter, 666. Game, 667. Poultry ; 79. A. Beerstraten , Leyden in winter ; 1023. C. Netscher, Portrait; 330. J. Ekels, View of Am sterdam ; 280. G. Dou, Portrait; 1345. P. Snyers, Saleswoman ; 829. Sir Thomas Lawrence, W.F. Mogge-Muilman, founder of the Van de Poll collection ; 139. F. Bol, Portrait; 1460. W. van Valckert, Masters of the Merchant's Guild of Amsterdam ; 952. F. van Mieris the Elder, Jacob's dream ; 1441. C. Troost, Alexander the Great at the battle of the Granicus; 138. F. Bol, Portrait; 1375. J. Steen, Dancing -lesson . We now enter ( in a straight direction ) the Room OF THE ANATOMICAL PAINTINGS ( No. 220 ), i.e. represen tations of anatomical lectures and demonstrations, with portraits of the most eminent professors of medicine at Amsterdam in the 17-18th cent. and the contemporary members of the Surgeons' Guild, for whose guild - halls the pictures were painted . The cele brated work of Rembrandt, described at pp. 265, 266, is the most important specimen of this class of paintings. Over the door, 1442. C. Troost, Lecture on anatomy; 1155, 1156. Quinckhard, Pre sidents of the Surgeons' Guild ; to the right 1109. A. Pietersz, 28. A. Backer, 336. Elias, Lectures ; 38. Jan de Baen , Dead bodies ofthe brothers De Witt at the gallows (see p . 270 ) ; 1123. J. Pool, The surgeons Boekelmann and Six ; 766. Th. deKeyser, Lecture ( 1619) ; 1250. Rembrandt, Fragment of an anatomical piece , three- quarters of which were destroyed by fire in 1723 ; the body is strongly fore shortened . 1443. Troost, 150. Boonen, 1154. Quinckhard, Pre sidents of the Guild of Surgeons . - We leave this room by the same door as we entered, and turn to the right into the PORTRAIT Room (No. 214) . The portraits, which begin in the passage, are chiefly interesting for their subjects and the costumes . To the right, 818 ( and opposite) 819. Lairesse , Allegories ; 1435. D. van Tol, Portrait; 865, 866. Liotard , Hendrick Bicker and his wife; over the door, 1524. A. van de Venne, Frederick V. of Bohe mia and his wife at the chase (in grisaille); 1276. Sandrart, Eva Bicker ; 1025. C. Netscher, Agatha Bicker ; 999. Musscher, Maria Schaep ; 1456. Vaillant, Jacoba Bicker ; 511. C. H. Hodges, 1082. Ovens, Portraits; * 930.Mierevelt, Jan van Oldenbarneveld ; 1024. C. Netscher, J. J. Backer ; 1276. Sandrart, Portrait ; 637, 651, 650, 646, Four excellent miniatures of the Bicker family.— *469 . B.van der Helst, Princess Maria Henrietta Stuart , widow of William II. ( an important work) ; 679. W. van Honthorst, Stadtholder William II . 326 Route 42. AMSTERDAM . Ryks Museum . 7 of Orange ; 384. W. de Geest, Count Henry Casimir of Nassau ; 670, 671. Honthorst, Stadtholder Frederick Henry of Orange and his wife ; 921. Mierevelt, Stadtholder William I. of Orange ; 924. Miere velt, Stadtholder Prince Fred . Henry of Orange ; 1623. A. van de Venne, Princes Maurice and Fred . Henry of Orange ; 1291. G. Schal cken, William III. of Orange , King of England ; 383. W. de Geest, Count Ernest Casimir of Nassau ; 922. M. van Mierevelt , Prince Philip William of Orange.

• • 1247. Rembrandt, Directors of the Guild of the Cloth makers ('de Staalmeesters’, literally ' stamp -masters'), 1661.

Four of the directors are sitting at a table covered with an Oriental cloth , while a fifth appears to be rising impatiently from his seat . In the background is a servant of the guild. Notwithstanding the simplicity of the colours, the prevailing brown hue of the picture, and the absence of strong light, the master has succeeded in producing what may be termed his usual poetry of colour, combined with the most life - like fidelity. Compared with these heads , the neighbouring portraits appear cold and lifeless. Comp. also p. lv . 672. Honthorst, William II . ofOrange ; 923. M. Mierevelt, Stadt holder Maurice of Orange ; 558. Dutch School , Amalia van Solms, wife of Fred . Henry of Orange (see above) ; *981. P. Moreelse, So phia Hedwig of Brunswick ( see below ); 680. Honthorst, Princes William the Silent, Maurice, Fred . Henry, William II. , and Wil liam III. (when a child) ; 1520. Van de Venne, Prince Maurice of Orange, Frederick V. of the Palatinate, and other Orange princes ; 1582. J. Volleven the Elder, William III . of England ; 386. W. de Geest, Sophie Hedwig of Brunswick, wife of Count Ernest Casi inir of Nassau ; 385. W. de Geest, Count Ernest Casimir; 673. Honthorst, Prince Frederick Henry of Orange , with his wife and three daughters ; 675. Honthorst , Prince William II. of Orange and his wife , Mary of England ; 674. Honthorst, Frederick William , the Great Elector of Brandenburg , and his wife , Louisa Henrietta of Orange; 366. G. Flinck , Princess Amalia of Solms (see above ); 25. J. Aved, Stadtholder Prince William IV. (1751); 644. Dutch School ( 18th cent. ) , Frederick the Great of Prussia ; 1671. J. G. Ziesenis , Stadtholder William V. of Orange; 1142. F. Pourbus the Younger, Maria de'Medici; 1629. Copy of Roger van der Weyden (?), Charles the Bold ( ?); 1337. Jacqueline of Bavaria (a copy) ; 1336. Johanna of Castile ( id .); 125. H. Bloemaert, Portrait ; no number, Fle mish School, Henri IV. of France, 1592. The room also contains numerous portraits of members of Dutch patrician families, including specimens of Lod. van der Helst (486), P. van Anraadt (8, 9), J. Verspronck (1544) , J. G. Cuyp ( 258 ), and J. Delff (266) . Also, 1444. Troost, Eight managers of the Amsterdam Orphanage; 925. M. Mierevelt, Joh . van Oldenbarneveld, and 978. Moreelse , Maria van Utrecht, his wife; no number, Unknown Master, Study of a head ; 363. G. Flinck, Vondel the poet (p. 334) ; no number, H. San ders, Portrait; 1446. Troost, Inspectors of the College of Medicine. The five rooms adjoining the Portrait Room on the left contain > Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 12. Route. 327 Dutch CABINET Pieces, a series of small pictures, many of which are executed with the greatest delicacy. The following are the most important: CABINET 1. ( 219 ). To the left, 1259. P. Saenredam, Church interior ; 929. Mierevelt, Portrait ; 1258. Saenredam , Church inte rior; 762. Th. de Keyser, Family group ; 502. P. van Hilligaert, Prince Maurice setting out for the chase ; 976. F. de Momper, The Valkenhof at Nymegen ; 204. A. Brouwer, Boors brawling; 927. Mierevelt , Elector-Palatine Frederick V. , the 'Winter King'; 888. N. Maes, Portrait; 1558, D. Vinckboons , Military life ; 59. B. van Bassen , Domestic interior ( 18th cent. ), with figures by E. van de Velde; 203. A. Brouwer, Rustic orgy. Cabinet2. (218). To the left, 909. G. Metsu , Old woman medi tating ; 1484. A. van de Velde, The ferry; 1287. Roelandt Savery, Orpheus playing to the animals; 792. S. Koninck , The old scholar ; 957. F. van Mieris the Younger, The hermit; 982. P. Moreelse , Elector - Palatine Frederick V. , King of Bohemia ; 1521. Adrian van de Venne, The fishers of souls, a satirical composition with nume rous figures, Roman Catholic priests and Protestant pastors fishing from boats ; among the figures are portraits of Archduke Albert, his wife Isabella, and others. 1019. C. Netscher, Portrait of Con stantin Huygens, the poet ; * 1228. J. van Ruysdael, The château of Bentheim ; 1526. A, van de Venne, Prince Maurice of Orange lying in state ; 1121. C. van Poelenburg , Nymphs surprised ; 1650. Ph . Wouverman , Stag - hunt; 1267. H. Saftleven , Village on a river ; 303. C. Dusurt, Village -tavern ; 232. Pieter Claesz van Haerlem , Still-life ; 1071. A. van Ostade, Rest. CABINET 3. (217). To the left, 257. B. Cuyp , Joseph inter preting the dreams ; 1374. J. Steen , The charwoman ; 1135.P.Potter, Shepherd's hut; 1251. Rembrandt, Woman at a brook; 277. G. Dou, The hermit; 1070. A. van Ostade, Artist in his studio; 682. P. de Hooch, The cellar; 1652. P. Wouvermann, Hawking ; 183. A. van Breen , View of the Vyverberg at the Hague, with Prince Mau rice and his suite in the foreground ; 1256. P. Saenredam , Church interior at Haarlem ; 1018. Eglon van der Neer , Tobias and the angel; 1074. A.van Ostade, Merry peasant; 1649. Ph. Wouverman , Landscape; * 279. Dou, Man and woman , in a landscape by N. Ber chem ; the heads are wonderfully life- like , particularly the man's.

• 1371 . J. Steen, Oostwaard , Master of the Bakers' Guild , and his wife ; 101. G. Berck - Heyde, The Dam in Amsterdam ; 278. G. Dou ,

Young girl at a window with a lamp in her hand; 979. P. Moreelse , The beautiful shepherdess; *1367. J. Steen, The parrot- cage, some times called the backgammon - player'. CABINET 4. (216) . To the left , 162. J. Both , Italian land scape ; *743. W. Kaiff, Dish of oranges and lemons; * 443. F. Hals, The jovial toper, a very characteristic study ; * 460 . J. de Heem , Still-life, fruit; 187. Brekelenkam , The hearth - corner; 907. G. Metsu , 328 Route 42 . AMSTERDAM . Ryks Museum . The breakfast ; 22. J. van Assen , Portrait ; 1120. C. van Poelen burg , Expulsion from Paradise ; 1015. A. van der Neer , Winter scene ; 429. J. Hackaert, The ash-walk ; no number, Em . de Witte, Church -interior; 300. C. Dusart, Village musicians ; 1663. J. Wy nants, Landscape in the Dunes. CABINET 5. (215) contains the legacy of Baron J. de Witte van Citters, consisting chiefly of family portraits, many of the painters of which are unknown. To the left : 317, 318. Phil. van Dyk, Por traits ; 931 , 932. M. van Mierevelt, Burgomaster van Beresteyn of Delft and his wife; 393. Geldorp Gortzius , Portrait ; 323 , 322. Ph. van Dyk, Portraits ; 1296 , 1297. G.Schalcken, Portraits; 395, 396. Geldorp Gortzius , Portraits; 1140. F. Pourbus the Elder, Portrait. Passing through the vestibule ( p. 318) , we now reach the western half of the first floor, and enter the first of the five W. Cabinets . CABINET 6. ( 274 ) contains a collection of crayons by the Gen evese painter J. J. E. Liotard (d . 1789) , presented to the Mu seum by Mlle. J. A. Liotard, and also nine crayon-portraits by Tischbein ( d. 1812 ). To the left: J. F. A. Tischbein, 1423. Princess Augusta Maria Caroline of Orange ; 1425. Hereditary Prince William Frederick ( afterwards King William I. ) ; 1421 . Prince William V.; 1422. Frederica Sophia Wilhelmina, his wife ; 1426. Frederica Louisa Wilhelmina of Prussia, wife of William 1. ; 1429. Isabella of Nassau - Weilburg; 1424. Charles Christian of Nassau - Weilburg ; 1427. Prince William George Frederick of Orange; 1428. Frederica Louisa Wilhelmina of Orange, wife of the Hereditary Prince of Brunswick . Liotard , 851. Empress Maria Theresa of Austria; 857. Maria Josephine of Saxony, Dauphiness of France; 861. Lady Mary Coventry , in Turkish dress ; 856. Louis of Bourbon , son of Louis XV. of France ; 868. Emperor Joseph II .; * 860. Empress Maria Theresa ( enamelled on copper) ; 867. Archduke Maximilian of Austria ; 862. Duchess of Marl borough . CABINET 7. (273). To the left , 1648. Ph . Wouverman , The shying horse ; 88. N. Berchem , Winter- scene; 1077. J. van Ostade, Village tavern ; 980. P. Moreelse, The little princess ; Ph . Wouver man , 1654. The horse - pond , 1645. Brawling peasants; 1294. G. Schalcken , Fire and candle - light effect; 658. Hondecoeter , Dead birds; 1119, 1118. C. van Poelenburg, Bathers ; *908. G. Metsu, The old toper, excellently painted and very well preserved ; *1366. J. Steen, Eve of St.Nicholas, a favourite and often repeated subject of the painter ; 949. F. van Mieris the Elder, Correspondence ; 1293. Schalcken, The smoker ; * 1370. J. Steen, The quack , full of comic incident, hastily but cleverly executed ; 1020. C. Netscher, Motherly care ; *1413 . Gerard Terburg, Paternal advice, one of the most cele brated pictures of the master. but unfortunately somewhat damaged ( replicas at London and Berlin ) ; 1368. J. Steen , Peasants' wedding ; 1646. Ph. Wouverman, The triumphant peasants. Ryks Museum. AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 329 CABINET 8. ( 272) chiefly contains portraits by Dutch masters, amongst which are many portraits of artists by themselves. To the left: 381. J. van Geel, Portrait of himself ; 223. G. Camphuysen, 1581. H. van Vollenhoven , 133. F. Bol , 1614. A. van der Werfi, no number, * Karel du Jardin , 681. P. de Hooch, Portraits of the artists by themselves; 777. G. Kneller, Portrait of the artist C. de Bruyn ; 1364. J. Steen , Portrait of himself; 134. F. Bol, Portrait of the sculptor A. Quellinus; no number, P. Moreelse, Portrait of himself; 1447. Corn . Troost, 1160. J. M. Quinckhard, Portraits of the artists by themselves ( the latter also with a portrait of Ploos van Amstel, the patron of art ). CABINET 9. (271 ) . To the left, 1341. P. van Slingeland, The singing - lesson ; 1653. Ph. Wouverman, The forge ; * 276 . G. Dou, Evening - school, celebrated for the effects of light and shade pro duced by four candles and their different shadows ( purchased in 1808 for 17,500 fl. ); 146. D. Boone, Peasants playing cards ; 301 . C. Dusart , Fish -market; 1369. Jan Steen , The joyful return . G. Schalcken , * 1295. ' Tastes differ', young man lighting his pipe , and another joking with a girl; * 1292 . " Tastes differ', one boy eating an egg, another porridge, and an old man in night- cap and spectacles looking on . 950. F. van Mieris the Elder, The lute - player; 494. J. van der Heyden, Dutch city - canal; A. van der Werff, 1618. The dancing -lesson), 1616. Holy Family ; W. van de Velde the Youn ger, 1510 , Harbour, 1512. Rough sea , 1511. Calm . CABINET 10. (270). To the left, 1080, 1081. J. Ouwater, The Nieuwe Kerk and St. Anthonieswaag in Amsterdam ; 145. B. Bolo mey, Allegorical portrait of Princess Frederica Sophia Wilhelmina, wife of the Stadtholder William V.; 520. G. Hoet, Marriage of Alexander the Great and Roxana; 1152, 1153. Quinckhard, Por traits; 1200, 1199. J. C. Rietschoof, Rough sea, Calm . The Pavilion Room (268) , straight on , was originally intended for purposes of study. To the left : no number, H. Heerschop , Eleazar and Rebecca ; 1203. J. dela Roquette, Portrait of a gentleman in Indian costume; 29. A. Backer, Seven inspectors of the Collegium Medicum atAmsterdam (1683 ) ; 1636.J. de Witt , Allegory ofscience. Opposite , 657. G. d'Hondecoeter, Waterfowl. Farther on , beyond the partitions, are thirty - five portraits, chiefly of the family Van de Poll (presented by Baron J. S. H. van de Poll, see p. 324) : 889, 890. N. Maes, Portraits ; 1157. Quinckhard, Portrait; several portraits by unknown masters ; to the left, at the window , 121. D. Bleker, Repentant Magdalene. In the middle of the room , on a stand : A. Cuyp, Wine- growing (painted on both sides of a copper plaque , originally a sign-board). On the second partition to the left: 151. A. Boonen, 1620. A. van der Werff, 1430. Tischbein , 1545. J. C. Verspronck, Portraits ; * 445, * 446 . F. Hals, Portraits of Nicholas Hasselaer (? ) and his wife ; 1690, 1591. C. van der Voort, Portraits of Dirck Hasselaer and his wife; 1253. School of Rem 330 Route 12 . AMSTERDAM , Ryks Museum . brandt, Portrait ; 933, 934. M. van Mierevelt, Portraits of Hendrik Hooft and his wife; 479. B. van der Helst, Portrait of J. Trip. Then to the left, farther on : 38. J. de Baen, Regents and lady managers of the workhouse, 1684 ; 341. N. Elias , no number, N. Verkolje, Portraits : 1285, 1286. Dirck Santvoort, Portrait of Fred . Alewyn and his wife ; 1493. E. van de Velde, Dutch landscape ; 10. P. van Anraadt, Six regents ofthe Huiszittenhuis, with their beadle ; 1217, J. van Rossum , Portrait ; A.Boonen, 147. Six presidents of the Huiszittenhuis, 148. Four superintendents of the house of correction with a beadle ; *1151. P. Quast, Card-players ; 1248. School of Rein brandt, Study of a head ; 1591a. C. van der Voort, Portrait . In this room is the entrance to the Restaurant ( cold refreshments). We now pass through the door to the left into Room 269 , which contains the *MUSEUM VAN DER Hoop, bequeathed to the city by Herr Adrian van der Hoop (d.1854) and his widow (d . 1880) .- To the left : * 1223. Rubens, Portrait ofHelena Fourment, the artist's second wife; 585. Dutch or Flemish School ( about 1625 ), Nobleman on horseback ; 1410. D. Teniers the Younger, Dice - players ; *308. A. van Dyck, Portrait of Joh . Bapt. Franck, an excellent picture in the painter's early manner ; 973. J. M. Molenaer , Grace before meat; 1489. A. van de Velde, Landscape with cattle ; 1075. A. van Ostade, Peasants ; 1078. 18. van Ostade, Village 1633; * 447, F. Hals, Old woman sitting, a three - quarter length , 1639 ; 1378. J. Steen, Peasant family ; 1076. A. van Ostade , Confidential conversation ;

• 507. M. Hobbema, The water -mill, similar to the celebrated picture in the Hertford Gallery in London ; 1139. P. Potter, Cattle in a

meadow ; 953. F. van Mieris, The escaped bird ; 126. H. Bloemaert, The egg -woman ; 281. G. Dou, The fisherman's wife ; above, 668. M. d'Hondecoeter, Poultry. — *1252. Rembrandt, The so-called ' Jewish Bride' ; an old man approaches a young and richly-adorned woman as if about to embrace her ; the male figure and the background are unfinished (1662). 1234. J. van Ruysdael, Norwegian landscape , with a waterfall ; 683. P. de Hooch, Interior; 687. P. de Hooch (?) Musical party ; 141. F. Bol, Regents of the Huiszittenhuis ; *1376 . J. Steen , Merry household ( ' As the old sing, the young squeak' ) , 1668 ; 731. K. du Jardin, Landscape; * 163. J. Both, Artists studying nature ( large landscape with a waterfall ). - *1377. Jan Steen, Sick girl and physician ; one of Steen's most charming and perfect works, recalling the characters of Molière, beautifully drawn and boldly painted.

• 1235 . J. van Ruysdael, Forest - scene ; 1516. W. van de Velde the Younger, Calm sea ; 891. N. Maes , Presidents of the Surgeons'

Guild ; 974. J. M. Molenaer, Lady playing the pianoforte ; 1556. J. Victors, The dentist ; 956. W. van Mieris, Lady and gentleman ; 1610. J. Weenix, Game and fruit ; 105. G. Berck -Heyde, View in Amsterdam ; 480. B. van der Helst, Portrait ; 192. Brekelenkam, Mother and child ; 692. Hoogstraten , The invalid ; * 1233. J. van Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 331 ܕ 7 woman steals a cloak . Ruysdael, River - scene in the neighbourhood of Wyk - by - Duurstede; 1639. Em. de Witte, Church - interior; 686. P: de Hooch , Scene in front ofan inn ; 1515. W. van de Velde the Younger, Firing a cannon , sea-piece ; 812. J. A. Kruseman, Portrait of Adr. van der Hoop, founder of the collection ; 1224. Rubens , Portrait of Queen Anna Maria of France, wife of Louis XIII. ; 95. N. Berchem , Italian landscape ; 1517. W. vun de Velde the Younger, Rough sea ; 1408. Teniers the Younger , Village - festival ; 693. A. Houbraken , Studio ; 256. А. Сиур, View of Dordrecht ; 104. G. Berck- Heyde , The Dam at Amsterdam ; 1409. Teniers the Younger, In the country ; 1169. van Ravesteyn, Hugo Grotius, when a youngman ; 1619. A. van der Werff, The lovers ; 1380. Jan Steen , Topers ; Ph. Wouverman , 1655. Horse - poud, 1657. Landscape with horses ; 1349. H. M. Sorgh, Fish-market ; 684. P. de Hooch, Interior; * 892. N. Maes, Old woman spinning; 164. J. Both , Italian landscape; 1619a. A. van der Werff, Soap- bubbles ; 1232. J. van Ruysdael, Landscape ; 988. F. de Moucheron , Italian landscape ; 144. F. Bol, A naval hero.

• 1379. Jan Steen, Drunken roisterers, a coarse but clever re

presentation of a carousal, which is not without its moral. While the gentleman and lady are sacrificing to Bacchus and Venus, the musicians slip contemptuously out of the room and a Over the head of the drunken old man is seen the picture of an owl with candles and spectacles , with the microscopically minute in scription : Wat baeten kaers of Bril , Als den Uil niet sien wil ?' (Of what use are candles or spectacles, when the owl will not see ?). 1670, 1669. J. Wynants, Landscapes; *120. Adrian van Utrecht , Still - life ; 1017. A. van der Neer, Landscape ; 1656. Ph. Wouver man , Camp. *282. G. Dou , Hermit, a masterpiece of miniature painting ; we can almost count the hairs and wrinkles of the hermit in this little picture, only 1 ft. high. 1027. C. Netscher, Queen Mary of England, wife of William III .; 1016. A. van der Neer, Winter scene with skaters (daylight); * 1487. A. van de Velde, Landscape, the painter with his wife and children in the foreground, and a waggon , shepherd , and flock in the background, in beautiful evening light, probably the master's finest work (1667) ; *910. G. Metsu, The sportsman's booty , a room with a lady in a red velvet dress and a gentleman just returned from the chase ; 100. J. Berck - Heyde, Church-interior. Farther on are a few modern pictures which also belong to the Van der Hoop collection : 1298. A. Schelfhout, Landscape near Haar lem ; 218. A. Calame, Italian landscape; 1315. J. C. Schotel, Calm sea ; 779. Henrietta Ronner- Knip, Cat and kittens; 227. H. G. ten Kate, Town - scene by moonlight ; 1314. Schotel, Rough sea. The W. exit from the Museum van der Hoop leads to the Rooms OF THE MODERN MASTERS. In the passage (No. 265) are an Interior (18th cent.) by Leys (No. 834) and a statue of Per seús, in marble , by Ferd. Leenhoff. 332 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Ryks Museum . dam ; Room No. 263. To the left, several portraits, including 1107. N. Pieneman . To the right, Alma Tadema, Study of a head ; Jamin , Death -chamber; Verlat, Bear- fight ; 129. B. J. Blommers, The Knit ter ; 398. B. te Gempt, St.Bernard dog ; * 1328. Therese Schwartze, Three orphan- girls ; 503. E. A. Hilverdink, The Singel at Amster no number, Delft plate with a portrait of King William III . ; 185. G. H. Breitner, Mounted artillery in the Dunes ; 1637. E. 8. Witkamp the Younger, In the field ; 455. H. J. Haverman, Flight. Room No. 262. To the right, 1543. W. Verschuur, Horse-mar ket ; 119. J. W. Bilders, Landscape ; 120. C. Bisschop, Winter in Friesland ; 1205. W. Roelofs, Landscape ; 712. Jos. Israëls, Margaret of Parma and William the Silent of Orange; 1470. H. Valkenburg, A proposal of marriage ; 874a. Lingeman, Armourer; 52. J. J. van de Sande- Bakhuyzen , Landscape at sunset ; 428. J. / . L. de Haas, Cattle at pasture ; 1255. Phil . Sadée, Return from the fish -auction ;

• 711 . Jos. Israëls, Passing the churchyard ; no number, * Mesdag,

Sunset by the sea ; 230. Jaroslav Cermak , Montenegrin refugees ; 904. A. Mauve, Shepherd and flock ; 219. A. Calame, Lake of Lu cerne ; no number, Demont- Breton, Fisher-woman; 1593. Maria Vos, Still- life; 269. F. Diday, The Lauterbrunnen valley. In the middle of the room is a marble bust of the painter Ch. Rochussen. Room No. 261. To the right, 415. P. F. Greive, Dutch maid servant ; *14 . L. F. H. Apol, Dutch river - scene in winter; 1613. J. Weissenbruch, View of a town ; 73. J. van Beers , Burial of Charles the Good, Count of Flanders, 1127; 118. J. W. Bilders , Dutch landscape; 1359. C. Springer, Town Hall of Cologne ; no number, Israëls, Dealer in antiquities ; 397. Gempt, Congress of Paris ; 1329. Ther. Schwartze, Girl meditating ; 156. J. Bosboom , Parish-church of Edam ; 1270. S. Saint- Jean, Flowers ; 773. J. C. K. Klinkenberg, Episode during the siege of Leyden ; * 1330. Th . Schwartze, Mother and child ; 1439. H. A. van Trigt, Norwegian women bringing their children to be baptised ; 123. D. Bles, Victorious Holland ; 1008. W. C. Nakken , Norman horses in winter; 462. Heemskerck van Beest, The Y at Amsterdam ; no number, B. Constant, Theodora, wife of Justinian I. In the middle of the room is a marble bust of the painter F. Bosboom . Room No. 260. Pictures from the Pavilion at Haarlem . To the right, 1218. G.A. Roth , Bentheim Forest; 18. A. Asselbergs , Sunrise ; 1317. Schotel, On the beach ; 1098. J. W. Pieneman, The actress Johanna Cornelia Ziesenis as Agrippina ; 1031. P. J. Noël, Street- scene ; 1527. E. J. Verboeckhoven , At pasture ; 740. J. B. de Jonghe, Market ; 1395. J. van Stry, Evening in the country ; 1056 . G. J. J. van 08, Dutch landscape ; 194. J. Brice, Fowl-seller; 267. E. Delvaux, View on the Sambre; 51. Van deSande- Bakhuyzen, Landscape; 1204. W. Roelofs, Landscape ; 782. J. Kobell, Land scape ; 906. H. W. Mesdag, Beach at Scheveningen ; 1214a. Mar garetha Roosenboom, Autumn flowers; 1095. J. W. Pieneman, Ar Ryks Museum . AMSTERDAM . 42. Route , 333 cadian landscape ; 1575. C. J. de Vogel, Autumn; 517. Hodges, Louis Napoleon , King of Holland ; 154. J. W. Borselen, Dutch land scape. In the middle of the room is an Ecce Homo, in marble, by L. Royer. LARGE Room (No. 255; also pictures from the Pavilion atHaar lem). To the right, 1635. A. H. Winter , Sheep - stable ; 1106. J. W. Pieneman, Portrait of himself; 461. Heemskerck van Beest, Sea piece ; 26. J. J. Eeckhout, Marriage of Jacqueline of Bavaria, Countess of Holland, to Duke John IV . of Brabant; 1528. Verboeck hoven, Landscape with cattle ; 809. J. A. Kruseman, Elisha and the Shunammite woman ; 1358. C. Springer, Town- ball and market at Veere ; 1612. J. Weissenbruch , Town - gate at Leerdam ; 1009. F.J. Navez, Awakening to life of the Shunammite's son ; 450. P. van Hanselaere, The chaste Susannah ;1471. J. F. Valois, City -scene; 1100. J. W. Pieneman , Battle of Waterloo ( 26 ft. long and 18 ft. high) ; 780. Henrietta Ronner - Knip , Three to one ; 746. H. F, K. ten Kate, Guard- room ; 13. Apol, A January day ; 155. Bosboom , The Church of Our Lady at Breda ; 991. L. Moritz, Death of An toninus Pius ; 1438. H. A. van Trigt, Divine service in Norway ; 50. Van de Sande-Bakhuyzen, Flowers and fruit ; 1122. P. J. Poelman , Town- hall in Oudenaarde ; 427. J. H. L. de Haas, Early morning; 804. C. Kruseman, Philip II. of Spain leaving the Netherlands, Aug., 1559 ; 1310. J. H. Scholten, Sunday morning; *800. A. H. Bakker Korff, Under the palm - trees; 881. J. B. L. Mues, The Good Samar itan ; 1551. F. Vervloet, St. Peter's at Rome; 1299. A. Schelfhout, Dutch winter -scene ; 1145. J. H. Prins, View in a town ; 122. D) , Bles, The patricide ; 1086. J. Paelinck , Psyche in Cupid's palace ; 421. A. J. Haanen, Fruits; *15. D. A. C. Artz, Visit to the grandmother; 832. A. de Lelie, Morning-call; 710. Jos. Israëls, Alone in the world; 182. M. J. van Brée, Napoleon entering Amsterdam in 1811 ; 1254 . Sadée, Potato - gleaners ; 831. C. H. J. Leickert, Winter- scene ; 422. A. J. Haanen, Flowers ; 772. J. C. K. Klinkenberg, Market at Nymegen ; 1629. Verboeckhoven , Hungry wolves ; 876. D. van Lokhorst, Sheep - stable ; 1164. J. van Ravenswaay, Cow - house ; 327. E. J. Eelkema, Flowers ; 1059. M. M. van Os, Still- life. Room No. 248. Dutch REGENT Room ( 17th cent . ) , with a ceiling from the old Lepers' Hospital at Amsterdam , by G. de Lairesse. The walls are covered with old Gobelins tapestry, wainscoting, and a few regent - pieces ; the furniture is of the 17th century. The chimney piece is adorned with carving and with marble busts of the Burgo master Andr. deGraeff, byA. Quellinus (1661 ), and of Johannes Munter, by P. Eggers ( 1673). In the passage to the next room are two marble medallions of Burgomaster Corn . de Graeff and his wife, also by A. Quellinus. CABINET No. 249, like the previous room , has been fitted up by the Society of Antiquaries (Oudheidkundig Genootschap ). It is upholstered in gilt leather and contains a number of small curiosi 334 Route 42. AMSTERDAM. Charities. - ties, some paintings, and a cupboard with Dutch drinking - vessels of the 17th and 18th centuries . We now return through the Rembrandt Room and the Hall of Honour (p. 318) to the staircase. The place behind the museum deserves a glance as we leave the latter. The garden is laid out in the style of a guild -house (Doel) court in the 17th cent., and contains reproductions of old Dutch buildings that have been demolished . To the W.of the Ryks Museum liesthe pleasantVondels-Park (Pl . C, 6 ), which was laid out about 20 years ago and covers an area of 75 acres . On the E. the park is bounded by the Verlengde Vossius straat, containing the new building of the Blind Asylum (see below) . In the middle of the extensive grounds rises a statue, erected in 1867, of Joost van den Vondel, the most distinguished of Dutch poets (d . 1679 ). He was born at Cologne in 1587, and afterwards went to Holland with his parents, who were Mennonites. His principal works are tragedies with choruses, one of which, Gysbrecht van Amstel founded on the tradition of the destruction of the city of Amsterdam in 1296, is still annually performed. Near the monu ment is the Paviljoen Café (p . 293) . Farther on is the Melkhuis, a small farm where fresh milk is sold . To the S. of the Ryks Museum , in Nieuwer Amstel, is the new CONCERT -GEBOUW (PI, D, 6 ; see p. 293), entered from Pieter Cornelisz Hoofd- Straat. C. Charitable Institutions. Amsterdam is celebrated for its CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS, up wards of a hundred in number, destined for the reception of sick , aged , and indigent persons , lunatics, foundlings, widows, etc. , and all almost entirely supported by voluntary contributions. The Blind Asylum , in the Verlengde Vossiusstraat ( Pl. D, 6 ; see above), was founded in 1808 and is one ofthemost admirable institu tions ofthe kind . It now contains 50-60 pupils between the ages of fivə and eight een , whoreceive lessons in reading, writing, arithmetic, geo graphy, handicrafts , languages, and music. On Wednesdays from 10 to 12 the public are admitted while lessons are going on — a very interesting sight. Visitors are expected to buy some of the articles manufactured by the inmates, or to put a contribution into the collect ingbox. — For blind persons of a more advanced age there is a special asylum on the Stadhouderskade, which has about 80 inmates . The poor - houses are handsome buildings , with excellent or ganisation ; as for example, the Protestant Asylum for the aged of both sexes (Pl . 46 ; F, 4 ), on the Binnen - Amstel, and the Hospice of St. James, mentioned at p . 306. About 20,000 poor persons are said to be maintained at the expense of the citizens. Many of the orphans educated at the different Orphanages wear picturesque cos tumes , which are seen to the best advantage on Sundays, especially in the Kalverstraat. The children generally appear to enjoy excel

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AMSTERDAM . 42. Route. 335 lent health and spirits . The Walloon Orphanage, at the corner of the Prinsegracht and Vyzelgracht ( Pl. E , 5 ) deserves a visit on account of the regent-pieces by B. van der Helst, W. Vaillant, A. de Vries , and A. van den Tempel. The Maatschappy tot Nut van't Algemeen (Pl. 45 ; E , 3 ), or Society for the Public Welfare, is a very important body, whose sphere of operations extends over the whole kingdom of Ilolland . It was founded at Edam in 1784 by Jan Nieuwenhuyzen , a Baptist preacher, but transferred to Amsterdam in 1787. Its object is the promotion of the education and moral culture of the lower classes. Members subscribe 51/4 fl. annually, and eight or more subscribers residing in a provincial town or district constitute a sub - committee, whose sphere of action is called a department. There are at present 326 such departments, comprising about 16,000 members . The principal board of control is at Amsterdam , where the general meeting of the society takes place annually. The society endeavours to attain its ob jects ( 1 ) by promoting the education of the young, even after they have left school, training teachers, publishing school - books and edu cational literature, founding libraries , Sunday -schools, etc. ; ( 2 ) by promoting the enlightenment and culture ofadults,publishingpopular and instructive literature, instituting public lectures, founding read ing - rooms, savings -banks for widows, orphans, etc .; ( 3 ) by bestow ing rewards and honours on persons who have distinguished themselves by acts of humanity or generosity. RELIGION. The complete religious toleration which has long pre vailed in Holland has led to the formation of numerous different Sects, an enumeration of whose churches will afford the best idea of their respective numbers. The oldest and most interesting churches are the Reformed , 11 in number , embellished with the tombs of celebrated Dutchmen. The following are also Protestant places of worship : 2 Walloon , 1 English Episcopalian, 1 English Presbyterian, 1 ' Remonstrant' ( a sect without definite creed, but which regards the Bible as its sole guide ; see p. 378) , 2 Evangelic Lutheran (a sect which professes to adhere to the spirit rather than to the letter of the Augsburg Confession), 1 Re: established Lutheran ' (differing slightly from the Reformed' church ), 1 Baptist, 3 Reformed Christian , formerly named " Christian Seceding ", and 2 others ( ultra -orthodox ), who left the nod some years ago . Then 20 Roman Catholic, including 2 Jansenist ( p. 366) . There is also a Béguinage (p. 302) here in the style of those at Ghentand Bruges (seepp.27,47), which has been in existence since the 14th cent. (in the vicinity of the Kalverstraat, near No. 18 of our plan ). Finally the 10 Jewish synagogues (p. 307), and the meeting-house of the Free Brethren, built in 1880 . Excursions in the Environs of Amsterdam . The neighbourhood of the Dutch capital has little to offer in the shape of picturesque scenery ; but most travellers will find much to interest them in the extensive system of canals and sluices that has been constructed since the beginning of the present century to afford to vessels of heavy burden the access denied them by the silting up of the Zuidersee . Of no less interest is the other system of sluices intended for purposes of defence and en 336 Route 42. ZAANDAM. Excursions war, 2 abling the Dutch to place the entire district under water in case of Amsterdam forms the centre of the national system of de fence, and plays in Holland the same part that Antwerp does in Belgium ( comp. p . 138) . On a tongue of land projecting into the Y, opposite the new Cen tral Station ( steam -ferry ), stands the old Tolhuis, or custom - house, where there is a favourite Tea Garden commanding an excellent view of the Y (concerts , see p . 294) . Here are the vast gates, called the Willems- Sluis , at the mouth of the NOORD- HOLLANDSCHE KA NAAL which was constructed in 1819-25 by Blanken , at a cost of about 8 million florins. The canal is 130 ft. broad and 20 ft. deep, and its level at Buiksloot ( 11/4 M. to the N. of the Tolhuis) is 10 ft . below the average level of the sea at half- tide. It extends across the entire province of North Holland from Amsterdam to the Helder, a distance of 46 M. ( p . 341). Another excursion may be made to Zaandam , either by railway (p . 339) or by the steamer (‘Alkmaar Packet ),which sails from the Westerhoofd on the Prins - Hendrik -Kade (PI. D, 2) about ten times daily, and makes the journey in 3/4 hr. ( return -fare, 30 c. or 20 c . ). Zaandam (Hôtel de Zon, R., L., A., & B. 11/2 , pens. 31/2 fl ., well spoken of ; * Café - Restaurant Suisse, at the harbour, dear ), some times erroneously called Saardam , a town with 13,000 inhab., many of whom are said to be millionnaires, situated at the influxof the Zaan into the Y, is a thriving place, thoroughly Dutch in ap pearance. The small houses , which are almost all of one or two stories only, are built of wood or brick painted green or red , and sur rounded by gardens. Along the bank of the Zaan as far as the villages of Zaandyk, Koog, Wormerveer, and Krommenie ( see p . 339) , extend p about four hundred windmills. They are used for many different purposes, and comprise oil , saw, corn , paint, cement, and paper mills (comp. p. xxviii ) . The Zaanland is almost literally a forest of wind -mills. A pleasant drive ( carr. at Hooft's, Westzyde 133 ; 14 11. ) may be taken to Broek and Buiksloot (p . 338 ). The Hur of PETER THE GREAT is the principal curiosity at Zaandam (guide, unnecessary , 10 c . ; visitors arriving by steamer must cross to the W.bank ). We follow the road running towards the S. along the harbour, and leading to the ' Logement of the Czar Peter ', a small tavern , where it descends a few steps into a narrow street; we then cross a bridge, and 120 paces farther on reach a court-yard in which the hut (25 c . ) is situated . It is a rude wooden structure, now protected by a roof supported by pillars of brick . It is said to have been occupied by the Czar Peter in 1697, while he worked as a ship- carpenter in the building yard of Mynheer kalf. The tradition is that he arrived here in the dress of a common workman , under the name of Peter Michaelof, and long escaped recognition ; but the truth is that Peter only remained here about a week , for he was unable long to preserve his incognito, and being incessantly beset by crowds of inquisitive idlers, he preferred to return to Amsterdam . The hut be longs to the Czar of Russia , to whom it was presented a few years ago. To reach the ( 1/2 M.) station from the harbour we proceed towards the W. in the direction of the Zaan , taking the third street on the left, which is planted with two rows of young trees . 7 from Amsterdam . NOORDZEE KANAAL. 42. Route . 337 As the North Holland Canal proved unable to meet the growing requirements of the shipping it was determined , in 1862, to form a direct communication between Amsterdam and the sea . The shallow basin of the Y was drained and its waters confined to a central canal, which here intersects the narrowest part of the pen insula of North Holland , called Holland op zyn smalst. The work was begun in 1865, and the new Noordzee Kanaal, permitting the passage of the most heavily laden merchantmen , was opened for traffic in 1876. The canal is about 15 M. in length, 65-110 yds . in width , and 22-26 ft. in depth . Its level is about 20 inches below the mean level of the water at Amsterdam . Three huge gates , completed in 1872 , one of them 24 yds . and each of the other two 12 yds . in width , protect the W. entrance of the canal against the incursion of the sea. The breakwaters which shelter the entrance are 3/4 M. in length. At the entrance are two lighthouses. The whole outlay, including the cost of the protecting dyke at the E. end , near the village of Schellingwoude (see below) , announted to 35,000,000 fl., of which 6,000,000 f1. were contributed by the city of Amsterdam and upwards of 10,000,000 fl. defrayed by the sale of reclaimed land ( at an average price of 1200 fl. per acre ), while the remainder is borne by government Near the locks lies Ymuiden ( Hôtel Nommer Een ; Hôtel Willem Barendsz , with café restaurant), with 1500 inhab ., a place which has sprung into exist ence since the formation of the canal. It is connected with (21/2 M.) Velzen (p . 339) by a short branch - line. Steamboats ( Dolphyn ', ' Stad Purmerend') ply 2-3 times daily from Amsterdam to Ymuiden (Sat, twice only), starting from the De Ruyter -Kade ( Pl. D, 2 ) and making the trip in 13/4 hr. (fares 60 , 40 c .; there and back i A. , 60 c. ) . Intermediate stations : Westzaan , Buitenhuizen ( Assendelft), Velzen . In order to protect the North Sea Canal from the Zuiderzee, a huge dam, 11/4 M. in length , has been constructed across the E. mouth of the YatSchellingwoude. The middle of this embankment is broken by five huge locks, three of them intended for the passage of vessels , while the two others are used in regulating the amount of water in the canal. The largest of them is about 110 yds . in length , 22 yds . in width , and deep enough for vessels of very large ton nage. The two heaviest of the 56 ponderous lock-gates , 22 of which are constructed of iron and 34 of wood, weigh 34 tons each . The cost of the locks alone has amounted to nearly 6 million florins. From the Muiderpoort ( Pl. G, H, 3 ; p. 306 ; turning to the left 3 min . beyond the gate) we reach in 40 min . the S. extremity of the Dam , which leads us in 1/2 hr. to the locks . From Schellingwoude to Nieuwendam ( steamboat to Amsterdam 6-7 times daily ; see p. 295 ), in 1/2 hr .; or to the Zeeburg ( p. 295) . A very pleasant excursion may be made by the steam-tramway mentioned at p . 295 to Muiden ( Hôtel Badhuis, on the beach ; Re staurant de la Hollande), a small town at the influx of the Vecht BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland . 10th Edit. 22 338 Route 12. EDAM . into the Zuiderzee, 71/2 M. to the E. of Amsterdam , with an ancient castle affording a good view of the Zuiderzee ( fee 25-50 c. ) . The road skirts the Linnaeus Garden, with an agricultural and horti cultural school , and then proceeds past the Watergraafsmeer Polder, and the village of Diemerbrug. Beyond Muiden the tramway forks, the branch to the left leading to the small watering-place of Muider berg (Badhôtel ; famous echo), that to theright to Naarden (p . 346 ) and Hilversum (p . 346). Between the last two we stop at Jan Tabak (Restaurant, in a pretty wood ), Larenberg (view -tower and view of the Zuiderzee), and Laren , from which a branch - line runs to the fishing- village of Huizen , on the Zuiderzee. From Hilversum we may return to Amsterdam by railway ( express in 1/2 hr. ) . A steamer sails 4-5 times a day for Edam, starting from the De Ruyter-Kade ( fares 35 and 30 c., return-fare 60 or 40 c . ) , and calling at Broek and Monnikendam . A steam - tramway also runs to Edam in about 11/2 hr., starting from the Damrak (p. 299 ). Stations : Buiksloot (p. 336) , Zunderdorp, Schouw. Then Broek, in the Waterland, a village known for its almost exaggerated clean liness. The church has a pulpit of 1685. Monnikendam has some picturesque old houses ( 17th cent.) and a Stadhuis tower of 1591-92. The choir- screen in the church dates from 1562-63. From Mon nikendam we may cross by a fishing - boat (3 fl.; for a party 1 fl. each ) to Marken (see below ). —Edam (Dam Hôtel ; Heerenlogement), which is famous for its cheese and gives its name to the cheese of the whole district , has some interesting brick buildings of the 17th century. The Stadhuis contains a few paintings. A steamer plies several times a day from Edam to Purmerend (p . 342) in 1-11/4 hr. ( fares 25, 15 c. ). The costumes of the fisherfolk at Volendam , 11/2 M. to the E. of Edam , are particularly well seen on Sundays. Excursion - steamers ply almost every Sun, in summer from Amsterdam to the island of Marken in the Zuiderzee, leaving Am sterdam ( De Ruyter-Kade) at 10.15 a.m. and returning from Marken at 4 p.m. (return-fare 1 fl.). The island is inhabited almost ex clusively by fishermen , whose costumes, manners, and houses retain much that is peculiar and interesting. An excursion may also be made to Soestdyk (see p . 366 ; train in 3/4 hr. to Baarn, p. 347 , and then by a pretty footpath through wood , 2 M.) . - 43. From Amsterdam and Haarlem to the Helder . North Holland . FROM AMSTERDAM TO THE HELDER, 531/2 M. , railway in 21/2-23/4 hrs . (fares 4 , 31/4, 2 fl .). -Thesteamboat toALKMAAR, starting every forenoon and afternoon from the Westerhoofd ( Pl. D , 2) , is a more interesting though slower conveyance ( 3 hrs.; fares 75 or 50 c. ) . Halfway-station Zaandam . The province of Noord Holland , 50 M. in length , and 25-28 M. in width , is entirely surrounded by the North Sea and the Zuiderzee, the 2 NOORD HOLLAND . 43. Route. 339 small strip of land hitherto connecting it with the continent being now intersected by the North Sea Canal ( p . 337 ). A great part of the district lies 12-15 ft . below the level of the sea , from which it is protected on the W.side by the Dunes, and on the E. by lofty embankments. The polders (p . xxix ) near the Helder are of great interest to the agricultur alist. The cattle of this district are of a remarkably fine breed, and yield an abundant supply of excellent milk . The mutton of N. Holland also enjoys a high reputation, and the wool of the sheep is much prized for its softness . This part of Northern Holland , lying out of the ordinary track of tourists , is not often visited , though the towns of Hoorn , Enkhuizen , and Alkmaar contain many important buildings of their palmy days in the 17-18th cent., while the Helder is interesting as the station of the Dutch navy . The inhabitants are more primitive in their habits than those of Southern Holland, and adhere more tenaciously to the pictur esque costumes of their ancestors. The head - dress of the women is often curious. It consists of a broad band of gold in the shape of a horse -shoe across the forehead, serving to keep the hair back , and decorated at the sides with large oval rosettes of the same metal . Above this is worn a cap or veil of rich lace, with wings hanging down to the neck , while handsome earrings of gold and precious stones complete this elaborate and picturesque headgear. The natives of Friesland , who are often met with in Amsterdam and other towns, wear a kind of skull- cap of metal, usually silver gilt , which lies close to the temples, where it is finished with spiral ornaments. These trinkets are generally of gold, even among the poorer classes , or at least of silver, and are handed down from mother to daughter as heir - looms. - Head- dresses of this kind are often exhibited in the windows of the goldsmiths in Amsterdam , Utrecht, and other towns. An opportunity is thus afforded of comparing the modern workmanship with the ancient heir- looms, a comparison seldom to the disadvantage of the latter. From AMSTERDAM TO UITGEEST, 141/2 M., railway in 3/4 hr. The train starts from the Central Station (p . 293 ), traverses the drained bed of the Y ( p. 337) on an embankment, and crosses the North Sea Canal by a bridge 100 yds . long. 6 M. Zaandam (p. 336), the junction of the line to Hoorn and Enkhuizen ( p. 343). 8M . Koog-Zaandyk, 10 M. Wormerveer, 11 M. Krommenie, are villages with neat little houses, gardens , and in numerable windmills, situated on the Zaan. To the S. we see the Groote Kerk of Haarlem . 141/2M. Uitgeest , the junction of the line from Haarlem . FROM HAARLEM TO Ur BEST, 11 M. , railway in 38 min . Haarlem , see p. 285. The train runs through a pleasant district towards the N. , passing the village of Bloemendaal (p . 291) , to (3 M. ) Zandpoort ( Duinlust Hotet), near which, to the left, are the lunatic asylum of Meerenberg and the ruin of Brederode ( p . 291). On the right are pastures with fine cattle . Near (51/2 M.) Velzen , where a branch - line diverges to Ymuiden (p. 337) , are nume rous country - houses and pleasure - grounds. The train then crosses the North Sea Canal ( p . 337) and reaches - 7 M. Beverwyk, with country -houses and pleasure-grounds. During the bathing -season a steam -tramway runs from Beverwyk(in 20 min.; fare 15 c .) to Wyk aan Zee ( Vereenigde Hotels, R. 1-2, board 23/4 31/2 fl ., baths 25-50 c .), a favourite Dutch watering- place , with a children's hospital. A steamer plies hence daily to Amsterdam in 24/4 hrs. (80 c., return ticket 1 fl. 20 c .). A pleasant walk of 3/4 hr. may be taken along the beach or the Dunes to Ymuiden (p. 337). 22 * 340 Route 43. ALKMAAR . From Amsterdam 11 M. Uitgeest, the junction of the Haarlem and Amsterdam lines. The first stations beyond Uitgeest are ( 161/2 M. from Am sterdam ) Castricum and ( 21 M. ) Heilo. 27 M. Alkmaar (De Burg ; Toelast), a town of 14,400 inhab ., deriving its name (which signifies ‘ all sea') from the lakes or morass which formerly surrounded it , is renowned in the history of the Dutch struggle for independence for its stout and successful resist ance to the besieging Spaniards in 1573. The railway-station lies about 1/4 M. from the town , the road to which leads through the pleasant public gardens . The Church of St. Lawrence , a fine Gothic edifice ( 1470-98), with lofty vaulting of wood, deserves a visit. In the S. aisle , near the organ (painted by Caesar van Everdingen , 1645 ), is a painting in seven sections, of 1507, representing the Seven Works of Mercy. In the S. aisle is the finely-engraved brass of Pieter Claas Palinck ( 1546) . Carved stalls in the Renaissance style. The choir contains the ancient tomb of Floris V. , Count of Holland (d . 1296) . The tower of the church fell in the 15th cent. and has never been re built. A view of the church and tower is to be seen on the wall of the choir. The sacristan lives in the small square, planted with trees, to the S. of the church . There are two modern Roman Catholic Churches at Alkmaar, one in the Gothic, the other in the Romanesque style. In the Langestraat, the chief street of the town , rises the Stadhuis with its tower, a Gothic structure dating from 1507. It contains a museum, consisting of Alkmaar antiquities , of a few corporation and other paintings, and of other objects of interest. There is also a library. Admission, Mon. and Frid . 1-3 p.m. ( for strangers at other times also) , 25 Room I. Pictures by C. Heck ; painted sculptures from the portal of the Orphanage ; instruments of torture. -- ROOM II. To the right, Honthorst, Holy Family (1632) ; Ravesteyn, Portrait ; Caesar van Everdingen (of Alkmaar; brother of Allart van Everdingen , the landscape-painter ), An admiral, Regent-piece' ( 1634 ), Two large corporation -pieces (painted in 1659 under the influence of Van der Helst ); W. van de Velde the Elder , Battle of Copenhagen in 1658, a large cartoon ; C. van Everdingen , Lycur gus showing the results of education (painted under the influence of Honthorst); Corporation-pieces of the end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th cent., of no great merit ; P. de Grebber (1623 ), Family -portraits; representations of the sieges of Haarlem and Alkmaar by the Spaniards; W. Bartius, Corporation -piece ( 1634 ). In the middle of the room sculptures and weapons . Room III. Seals , weapons , and other small works of art . Alkmaar carries on a very extensive cheese - trade. The weekly market is frequented by the peasantry of the whole province of N. Holland , who sell their cheese here to the dealers. Up wards of 5000 tons of cheese are annually weighed in the Town Weighing House, being about one -half of the produce of the province. This building (at the end of the Langestraat, through the Mient to the left) was erected in 1582, and the handsome tower was com C. are ܕ to the Helder . HELDER. 43. Route. 341 pleted in 1599 by Cornelis Pz . Kunst. On market-days ( Fridays ) the whole of the picturesque place in front of the Weighing House is covered by huge piles of red and yellow cheeses, while the streets are full of the gaily- painted waggons of the neighbouring peasantry. Many of the 17th cent. houses in the Luttik Oudorp, Zydam , Mient, Verdronken Oort, Oudegracht, and other streets , are highly inter esting to students of architecture. A monument was erected in the promenade in 1876 to commemorate the siege of Alkmaar by the Spaniards . The Bosch, or park, near Alkmaar, although inferior to the parks of Haarlem and the Hague, affords pleasant walks. Trotting Matches ( Harddravery ) are occasionally held here , and the prize generally consists of a silver coffee - pot presented by the magistrates. One of these matches should if possible be witnessed by the traveller, who will not fail to admire the costumes of the peasantry and the unsophisticated delight of the spectators. At Egmond- Binnen , 3 M. to the W. of Alkmaar, are situated the scanty ruins of the castle of Egmond , the ancestral seat of the illustrious family so often mentioned in the annals of the Netherlands. In the vicinity, at Egmond op den Hoef, is an old and ruined abbey -church , in which many of the ancient Counts of Holland are interred . The abbey at a very remote period was a zealous patron of science, and its chronicles formed the principal source of the early history of Holland. In 1572 the fanatical iconoclasts destroyed the venerable and once magnificent build ings . A lighthouse erected in 1833 near Egmond aan Zee is adorned with a colossal lion in honour of Lieutenant Van Speyk ( p. 173) . The train crosses the North Holland Canal (p . 336) , which skirts the back of the Dunes, and then turns to the N.E. To the right a view is obtained of the fertile Schermer Polder . 311/2 M. Hugowaard ; 341/2 M. Noord - Schaarwoude ; 39 M. Schagen ; 46 M. Anna Paulowna, in the extensive polder of that name. 531/2 M. Helder ( Hôtel Bellevue, near the station ; Den Burg, Toelast, near the harbour, with a good view of the Zuider-Zee) was towards the close of last century little more than a large fishing village, but now contains 22,700 inhabitants. In 1811 Napoleon caused extensive fortifications to be constructed here by Spanish prisoners of war, and the works were afterwards completed by the Dutch. About 3/4 M. to the E. , and connected with the Helder by a road along the Helder Dyke, lies Nieuwe Diep, the harbour at the mouth of the North Holland Canal , where the capacious wharves and magazines of the Dutch Navy, and also the Naval Cadet School, together known as Willemsoord, are situated. Part of the Dutch fleet is generally stationed here . As this , the extreme promontory of N. Holland , is exposed more than any other part of the coast to the violence of the wind and the encroachments of the sea , it is protected on all sides by huge and massive dykes . The great HELDER DYKE , about 5 M. in length , and 12 ft. in width , which is traversed by a good road from the Nieuwe Diep to the Helder, descends into the sea to a 7 342 Route 44. PURMEREND. From Amsterdam > distance of 200 ft ., at an angle of 40° . The highest tide never reaches the summit , while the lowest still covers the foundations, Huge bulwarks projecting several hundred fathoms into the sea at intervals add to the stability of the structure . This remarkable artificial coast is entirely constructed of Norwegian granite . The traveller is recommended to take a walk on this dyke, which extends from the Nieuwe Diep to the Fort Erfprins beyond the Helder. Fort Kykduin rises on the highest point of the northern dyke. The lofty lighthouse, which may be visited by those who have never seen a structure of the kind , commands a fine prospect. A fierce and sanguinary naval battle took place off this Dune on 21st Aug. , 1673, between the united English and French fleets and the Dutch under De Ruyter and Tromp , in which the latter were victorious. In September , 1799 , an army of 10,000 English and 13,000 Russian troops, commanded by Admiral Abercrombie and the Duke of York , landed at this point. The Russians lost their way and were totally defeated by the French at Bergen , to the N. W. of Alkmaar, while the English were compelled , after a skirmish at Castricum ( p. 340), to yield to the super ior forces of the French and to retreat , having failed in their endeavours to induce the Dutch to revolt against their new masters. Opposite the Helder, and separated from the mainland by the strait of Marsdiep , which is never choked up with sand , lies the island of Texel. A steamboat plies thither thrice daily in 3/4 hr. , landing at Oudeschild . De Burg, the capital of the island, is situ ated 3 M. ir.land. The island, with 6400 inhab ., and 73 sq . M. in extent , consists chiefly of pasture -land, and supports about34,000 sheep, which sometimes yield as much as 100 tons of fine wool annually. A highly - esteemed quality of green cheese is prepared from the sheep's milk , and the mutton itself is excellent. The northern extremity of the island is called Eyerland ( ʻland of eggs' ) , on account of the myriads of sea - fowl which visit it. The eggs are collected in great numbers and sent to the Amsterdam market. Harlingen (p . 346) in Friesland may be reached by a sailing boat with a favourable wind in 5-6 hrs. ( 10-12 fl.). 44. From Amsterdam to Harlingen and Groningen viâ Enkhuizen and Stavoren . 99 or 115 M.RAILWAY to ( 37 M.) Enkhuizen in 1' /4-11/2 hr. STEAMER from Enkhuizen to ( 14 M. ) Stavoren in 1/4 hr. RAILWAY from Stavoren viâ Leerwarden to (47 M.) Harlingen in 21/2, to ( 64 M.) Groningen in 3 hrs . A STEAMER also plies from Amsterdam to Harlingen on Mon., Tues. , Thurs., & Frid . in 6 hrs., starting from the De Ruyter -Kadé (Pl. E , 2) ; fare 21/2 or 11/2 11. (Restaurant on board) . - Steamers also ply several times a day to Iloorn ( p . 343 ) and Enkhuizen ( p. 343) ; comp. the Officieele Reisgids. From Amsterdam to (6 m. ) Zaandam , see p. 336. The train now crosses the Zaan, stops at Oostzaan, and skirts the Wormer Polder. 141/2 M. Purmerend ( VerguldeRoskam ; Heerenlogement) , a small town with 5000 inhab . , situated between the Purmer, Wormer, and Beemster polders. The last of these, one of the finest in Holland , to Harlingen . ENKHUIZEN. 44. Route. 343 valued on an average at 1200 fl. per acre, reclaimed in 1608-12 , begins close to the Beemster Gate. Nearly in the middle of it lies Midden Beemster ( *Heerenhuis), 41/2 M. distant. To Edam , see p. 338. , The railway to Hoorn skirts the E. side of the Beemster, pass ing Kwadyk, Oosthuizen, and Avenhorn . 251/2 M. Hoorn ( * Doelen, R. & B. 21/4, D. 13/4 fi.; Hôtel Cen tral, R. & B. 13/4, D. 11/2-2 fl.; antiquities sold by F. Guise, watch maker , Nieuwestraat), with 10,000 inhab . , the ancient capital of N. Holland , is a picturesque town with numerous quaint old buildings, the walls of which are often elaborately adorned with tiles. Among the most interesting are the Harbour Tower (1532 1651), on the bank of the Zuiderzee; the Stadhuis, containing a few old pictures (A. J. T. Blankerhoff, Battle in the Zuiderzee in 1573 , with finely carved frame); the St. Jans Gasthuis ; the Weigh House (1609); and the Tribunalshof (1631),in the market. The Groote Kerlc contains a monument to Rear - admiral Floriszoon . The new Museum contains paintings by F. Bol, W. van de Velde the Younger, J. de Baen , four corporation - pieces by J. A. Rootius, etc. In 1573 a naval engagement took place off Hoorn between the Dutch and the Spaniards, when the admiral in command of the latter was taken ner. Hoorn was the birthplace of Willem Schouten , who discovered the passage round the S. coast of America in 1616 , and named ' Cape Horn' after his native town . From Hoorn a dili gence plies daily ( except Sun.) to Alkmaar ( p. 340) in 21/2 hrs . (14/4 or 1 fl.). A branch -line also runs from Hoorn to ( 101/2 M. ) Medemblik ( in 50 min .). The railway from Hoorn to Enkhuizen leads through the richest district in N. Holland . The houses of the peasants resemble villas ; most of them are surrounded by small moats and communicate with the road by tiny bridges. Stations Blokker, Westwoud, Hoogkarspel , and Bovenkarspel. 37 M. Enkhuizen ( Oranjezaal) was once a flourishing town with 40,000 inhab . , which at the beginning of the 17th cent. possessed a fleet of upwards of 400 herring - fishing vessels . The population is now 5700 only, and not a single fishing - smack remains. The Drome daris tower , a relic of the old fortications, dates from 1540. The Zuiderkerk, built in a morass, with the tomb of the naturalist Palu danus (d. 1633) , has an interesting tower ( 1450-1525). The * Choir screen in the Westerkerk, with relief- figures of Moses, Joshua, and the Evangelists, is the finest work of the kind in N. Holland ( 1542-73 ); beside the church is a detached wooden belfry dating from 1519. The Stadhuis ( 1688) , in the Breestraat, has some ceil ing - paintings by Lairesse , etc. Other interesting edifices in the town are the Weigh -house (1539) in the fish - market, the Mint ( 1611), the Orphanage ( 1615) , and numerous private houses of the 17th century. Enkhuizen was the birthplace of Paul Potter, the 344 Route 44 . LEEUWARDEN. From Amsterdam painter (1625-1654). – Steamers ply daily from Enkhuizen to Har lingen (p. 346). From Enkhuizen the steam - ferry crosses the Zuiderzee in 11/4 hr. to Stavoren, where the Dutch State Railway begins. The ancient Stavoren, the city of the heathen god Stavo , the Thor of the Fri sians, is now a small place with 700 inhab . only, but it has begun to revive since the opening of the railway and the construction of a harbour for the ferry - steamers. It was once the residence of the Frisian monarchs, and subsequently a wealthy and independent commercial city , which reached the height of its prosperity at the beginning of the 13th century. Old chroniclers relate that the citizens of this favoured spot were in the habit of using pure gold for many purposes to which the baser me tals are generally applied. Thus the bolts on the doors of their houses, the rivets and fastenings of their yachts and pleasure -boats , and the weather- cocks on their churches are said frequently to have been made of that precious metal. The decay of the place is chiefly attributed to the fact that the harbour is gradually becoming filled with sand and thus rendered useless. The Vrouwensand, a broad grass-grown sandbank in front of the harbour, derives its name from the tradition that the wife of a wealthy merchant once desired one of her husband's captains to bring her from abroad the most precious thing in the world' . The worthy Dutch mariner, in conscientious fulfilment of the request, ac cordingly brought back a cargo of wheat from Dantsic ! The lady, in lignant at his stupidity , ordered the valuable freight to be thrown over board at the mouth of the harbour. This act of wanton waste ultimately caused the ruin of the proud and luxurious city . The grain is said to have taken toot, and to have formed the foundation of the sandbank, which is daily increasing in extent and presents an insuperable barrier to the entrance of the once excellent haven. The lighthouse of Stavoren, on the extreme W. promontory of Friesland, is visible from almost every part of the Zuiderzee. To the E. of Stavoren lies the Gaasterland, forming an oasis of forest in the midst of a vast expanse of moor. The church of the village of Wyckel contains the tomb and monument of General Menno van Coehorn ( d . 1704 ), the celebrated Dutch engineer. The railway runs to the N.E. through the fertile but monotonous plain of Friesland, passing several small stations. Hindeloopen , with a lofty church - tower, is celebrated for its brightly coloured dresses and gaily - r houses (p . 310) . Workum contains some interest ing private houses of the 17th cent. and a pretty weigh-house of 1650. The church has a detached W. Gothic tower ; in the interior are richly painted biers belonging to the guilds ( 16-17th cent. ). 171/2 M. Sneek ( Hôtel de Wynberg) , a busy little town with 11,000 inhab. , carrying on a considerable trade in cheese and butter. A tramway runs hence ( in 21/2 hrs. ) to Bolsward (p . 349) and Harlingen (p . 346) ; and another viâ Joure to Heerenveen (p.349) in 11/4 hr. Several unimportant stations are now passed . 31 M. Leeuwarden (* Nieuwe Doelen ; ' t Wapen van Friesland ; Phoenix . Friesch Koffiehuis ; Port van Cleve ; Café Neuf; Van den Wal), the ancient capital of the Frisians, with 29,500 inhab ., carrying on considerable trade in cattle and agricultural products, is the junction for Groningen on the E. and Harlingen on the W. - to Harlingen. FRANEKER. 44. Route. 345 Leaving the station and skirting the new cattle- market, we reach the Willemskade, on a canal bordered with pleasant -looking villas . The Prins - Hendrikstraat leads hence to the 'Zaailand ', a square enclosed by the new Law Courts , the Commercial School , the Orphanage, the Exchange, and other buildings . In the Hofplein , near the centre of the town , are the Stadhuis, with a fine old hall ( 18th cent.) and some interesting collections in the archive - room , and the insignificant old Palace of the governors of Friesland, who were members of the Nassau - Diez family, and ancestors of the royal family of Holland . The latter is now occupied by the Royal Commissary for Friesland. The museum of the Friesch Genootschap van Geschied, Oudheid , en Taalkunde contains ethnographical curio sities, a cabinet of coins, and various local antiquities, including two fine *Rooms from Hindeloopen ( p . 344 ). Among the other in teresting buildings in the town are the pretty Weigh-house of 1598, in the Plein , the Oldehove, an unfinished Gothic tower, and the Kanse lary, dating from the time of Philip II . , originally a law- court built by Barth . Janszon in 1566-71 . The mediæval palaces of the nobi lity have long disappeared . The gold and silver wares of Leeuwarden are of considerable importance, no fewer than 25 firms being enga ged in their manufacture ( comp. p . 339). The Frisian women enjoy a great reputation for beauty, and many very attractive faces may be seen among the country - girls who frequent the markets . In summer, afternoon - concerts are frequently given in the pretty Stad or Prinsentuin (adm . 50 c . ). Railway from Leeuwarden to Meppel and Zwolle, see R. 45. The Frisians are the only Germanic tribe that has preserved its name unaltered since the time of Tacitus. They are remarkable for their physical strength, their bravery, and love of independence. Charlemagne entered into a treaty with this remarkable race , by which they agreed to submit to the rulers he should place over them , on condition that they should be governed in accordance with Frisian laws. That monarch caused a collection of these laws to be made, and they still exist in the Asegabuch in the old Frisian language, as well as in Latin . Their language differs considerably from that of the rest of Holland, occupying an intermediate position between Anglo -Saxon and Old Norse , and often closely resembling English . The Frisian language boasts of a not inconsiderable literature, but is gradually being supplanted by Dutch . The small village of Dokkum where St. Boniface was slain by the Frisians in 755, lies 9m . to the N. E.of Leeuwarden , and is connected by tramway with Veenwoude, a station on the railway from Leeuwarden to Groningen ( see p . 346) . FROM LEEUWARDEN TO HARLINGEN, 151/2 M. , railway in 40 min. Stations : Deinum , Dronryp. 101/2 M. Franeker (De Korenbeurs) was theseat of a university from 1585 to 1811 , when it was suppressed by Napoleon . Vitringa, Heineccius, Schultens, Hemsterhuis, Valkenaer, and other savants once taught here. In the choir of St. Martin's Church, completed in 1420, are several very fine tombstones of the 15-17th cent., plac ed upright against the walls. The earlier specimens are of reddish 346 Route 44 . HARLINGEN , sandstone, the later (some 12 ft. long) 'of dark granite. The most famous Frisian sculptors or ‘ Antyksnyders' , several of whom stu died in Italy, were Peter Dirks and Vincent Lukas. who flourished about the middle of the 16th century . The recently restored Stadhuis (1591 ) contains portraits of scholars, etc. The Kornträgerhäuschen is an elegant building of 1634. The traveller should not omit to see the great curiosity of the place, an astronomical model which shows all the motions of the planets, the sun , and the moon, with the utmost scientific accuracy. It was constructed by Eise Eisinga, a simple burgher of Franeker, in 1774-81 . 151/2 M. Harlingen (Heerenlogement), a town of 10,200 inhab ., with a harbour constructed in 1870-77, occupies almost the same site as a city which was entirely swallowed up by an inundation in 1134. In 1566 the surrounding district was again devastated and depopulated by another encroachment of the sea , in consequence of which the Spanish governor Robles de Billy caused the entire pro vince to be surrounded by lofty dykes. The grateful inhabitants, in commemoration of this important service , erected a statue to the governor, called the Steenen Man, which is still to be seen on the sea-wall near the town . —Steamers with tolerable passenger- accom modation ply between Harlingen and London , Hull, etc. The railway station is 3/4 M. from the town . Tramway to Sneek, p. 344. From LEEUWARDEN TO GRONINGEN, 331/2 M., railway in 11/2 hr. The district traversed is monotonous and the stations are unimport ant. From Veenwoude a tramway runs to Bergum and Dokkum (see p . 345). — 331/2 M. Groningen, see p. 350. 45. From Amsterdam or Utrecht to Leeuwarden and Groningen . From AMSTERDAM TO AMERSFOORT ( 281/2 M.) in 1-11/2 hr. (fares 2 f. 30 , 1 1. 85 , 1 n . 15 c . ) . From UTRECHT TO AMERSFOORT ( 14 M.) in /2-3 /4 hr. (fares 1 1. 10,85,55c. ).From Amersfoortto LegoWARDEN ( 98 m. ) , ex press in 31/2, ordinary trains in 51 / 2-61/2 hrs. ( fares 7 f . 90 , 6 f . 15, 3 11 . 85 c. ). FROM AMERSFOORT ro GRONINGEN ( 102 M. ) in the same time ( fares 8 fl . 70, 7 ., 4 fl . 35 c . ) . AMSTERDAM , see p . 293. The line runs towards the E. and in tersects the Watergraafsmeer polder, with its fresh green meadows. 10 M. Weesp, a small town on the Vecht. The polders next tra versed were formerly the Naarder Meer . 141/2 M. Naarden Bussum . The small fortified town of Naarden (DeKroon ), a little to the N. of the line , possesses a church painted in the Gothic style. The Stadhuis and the orphanage contain a few paintings . The train now turns to the S. to ( 18 M.) Hilversum , where the Utrecht branch of the railway diverges. Hilversum is also con nected with Amsterdam by a steam - tramway , passing Muiden ( p . 337). The neighbourhood here is attractive, and suggestive of pleasant walks and drives . - 23 M. Baarn, a favourite summer ZWOLLE 45. Route, 347 resort of the wealthy citizens of Amsterdam , with a fine wood (the Baarn’sche Bosch ; Soestdyk , see p. 366 ). The train now crosses the Eem and reaches ( 281/2 M.) Amersfoort. UTRECHT, p. 362. The first stations are (51/2 M. ) De Bildt, (10 M. ) Soest , and ( 14 M. ) Amersfoort, where the Amsterdam and Utrecht lines meet . Amersfoort (Muller ; De Zwaan) is an industrial town, with 14,500 inhab., situated on the Eem , in the midst of a sandy dis trict . In 1787 the 14th cent. Church of St. Mary was partly destroyed by an explosion of gunpowder ; the tower, 308 ft. high , which was not injured, built about 1500 (top restored in 1655 ) is the finest Gothic pyramid in the country . It has a chime of bells by Fr. Hemony. The medieval gateways of the town are interesting . Amersfoort is one of the chief seats of the Jansenists ( p . 366). Outside the town, 11/4 M. from the station , is an eminence with a pavilion , which commands an admirable panorama of thesurround ing district. - From Amersfoort to Zutphen and Rheine, see R. 47 . The line to Nymegen is mentioned at p . 373. Our line turns towards the N. The next stations beyond Amersfoort are (6 M. from Amersfoort ) Nykerk, ( 11 M.) Putten , and ( 14 M.) Ermelo - Veldwyk. The soil is sandy and generally sterile, but tobacco is extensively planted here . This district is the Veluwe, lying between the Zuiderzee and the Yssel, and is one of the highest parts of Holland (300-350 ft. above the sea) . 17 M. Harderwyk ( Hôtel de la Paix ; 't Wapen van Zutphen ), a small fortress and seaport on the Zuiderzee , is the depôt for the Dutch E. Indian recruits . The university , founded in 1648 , was closed in 1811 . 201/2 M. Hulshorst; 24 M. Nunspeet; 30 M. Elburg - Epe; 35 M. Wezep ; 38 M. Hattem . The Yssel is now crossed by a long iron bridge. 42 M. Zwolle ( * Nieuwe Keizerskroon , Kampenstraat , R. , L., & A. 2 , B. 1/2 , D. 2 fl.; Heerenlogement, in the Groote Markt, com mercial, R. , L. , A. , & B. 1 fl. 85 c . - 21/2 f1., D. incl. wine 21/4 fl., well spoken of ), the capital of the province of Over- Yssel , with 26,000 inhab ., is situated on the Zwarte Water, a small river which falls into the Zuiderzee . Approaching the town from the station we observe the Sassen - Poort, an old Gothic gateway of brick, with four towers, to the right, at the end of a broad sheet of water surrounded by fine trees . In the market rises the spacious Gothic Church of St. Michael, begun in 1406, which contains a fine carved pulpit, exe cuted by ‘ Adam Straes van Weilborch uyt dat Duyts Land Nas sauwe' , about 1620, and an excellent organ ( 1ị hr's ,performance 611.) . The choir- screen dates from 1592. Beside the church is the picturesque Guard-House of 1614. The Stadhuis ( 1448 ; ex terior modernized ) contains on the ground-floor a handsomely paint ed and fitted up Gothic * Council - room , with carved figures sup > 348 Route 45. KAMPEN. From Amsterdam porting the roof, said to be caricatures of councillors of Kampen. The marriage -room has a fine Gothic chandelier ( 14th cent. ) and chimney - piece. Next to the little Gothic Bethlehem Church in the Sassenstraat is a handsome merchants-house of 1571. The country people who frequent the town on Fridays wear quaint costumes. Thomas à Kempis, the author of the 'Imitation of Christ', which has been translated into almost every known language, lived for nearly 64 years ina monastery on the Agnetenberg, where he died in 1471 , in his 92nd year. A broken tombstone here is said to be that of the pious writer, who was born at Kempen, a town on the Lower Rhine (p. 368 ), whence he derived his name. The Agnetenberg, 3 M. from Zwolle, is still the burial-place of the wealthier inhabi tants of Zwolle. The ground in the immediate vicinity of the town is so saturated with moisture, that a grave cannot be dug without immediately being filled with water. Excursion to Vilsteren . From ZWOLLE TO KAMPRN, 8 M., railway in 20 min. ( fares 65,7 50, 30 c. ). Intermediate station, Mastenbroek . Kampen (* Hôtel des Pays - Bas, R. & B. 13/4, L. & A. 1/2, D. incl. wine 21/2 fi.; *Dom van Keulen ), on the Yssel (here crossed by a new bridge), near its influx into the Zuiderzee , is a quiet and clean Dutch town of 20,000 inhab ., a favourite residence of persons with limited incomes (no municipal taxes) . The town, once a member of the Hanseatic League, was at the height of its prosperity in the 15th cent. , before the harbour was silted up. The Koornmarkts Poort, one of the four ancient gateways, dates from the 14th cen tury . The large church of St. Nicholas, or Bovenkerk ( comp. p. 336; under restoration) , and that of St. Mary, or Buitenkerk (Roman Catholic ), also date from the 14th century. The chief object of interest, however, is the * STADHUIS, restored after a fire in 1543 . The six statues on the facade (Charlemagne , Alexander the Great, Moderation , Fidelity , Justice , and Neighbourly Love) appa rently date from the previous building of the 14th century. The council - room , with elaborately carved magistrates' seats ( notably the two presidents' chairs) by M. Vrederick ( 1546) , an almost overladen sculptured chimney-piece by Jacob Colyn de Nole of Utrecht ( 1545 ), and an artistic iron trellis before one of the win dows, is among the most characteristic curiosities in the country. It contains a small collection of antiquities. A later addition ( 1740-41) contains tapestry, portraits of stadtholders, tankards, etc. In the vicinity is the Broederkerk (15th cent.), the former Minorite church , and the Tower of the Holy Ghost, built in 1649-64 by Vingboons, as a kind of landmark between the Bovenstad and Buiten stad . Kampen is the seat of a dissenting theological school, with 6 professors and about 60 students . From Kampen to Amsterdam , steamboat daily in 41/2 hrs. ( from Zwolle in 61/4 hrs . ) . to Groningen . GRONINGEN . 15. Route. 349 1 Beyond Zwolle the train crosses the Vecht . 46 M. Dalfsen ; 51 M. Dedemsvaart; 541/2 M. Staphorst. 58 M. Meppel ( Heerenlogement; De Bonte Koe, well spoken of ), a town with 7700 inhab ., calico and sail - cloth manufactories , and an important butter -market. The line to Leeuwarden here turns to the left, that to Groningen to the right ; carriages changed . The LEEUWARDEN LINE continues to run towards the N.; it crosses theDrentsche- Hoofd Kanaal, and passes ( 611/2 M. ) Nyenveen and ( 661/2 M.) Steenwyk . The Pauper COLONIES OF FREDERIKSOORD , WILHELMINAOORD, AND WILLEMSOORD lie to the E. of Steenwyk. These colonies were founded during the famine of 1816 and 1817 by a charitable society established for that end , and now support about 2000 paupers. Each adult, if able bodied and willing to work , is provided with a fewacres of land , and occasionally with a cow, a pig , and a few sheep. There are also other excellent arrangements, by means of whichthe majority of the colonists are rendered entirely self-supporting after the first outlay has been made . The houses are visited almost daily by the superintending officials, and the strictest discipline is everywhere observed . The COLONIES OF VEENHUIZEN, 9 M. to the W. of Assen (see below ), consist of three extensive buildings, about 1/2 M. apart, two of which were destined for the reception of orphans , and the third for beggars. The orphan- asylums were, however, unsuccessful, and the buildings are now occupied by paupers. Another similar colony is that of Ommerschans , 9 M. to the S. E. of Meppel, in the province of Over- Yssel. The latter is partly used as a penal settlement for the idle and the disorderly , and partly as a reformatory for beggars. Beyond Steenwyk the line turns to the N.W. 71 M. Peperga Oldemarkt ; 721/2 M. Wolvega ; 78 M. Oude Schoot. --- From ( 801/2M .) Heerenveen, situated in a pretty district, with numerous country seats, a tramway runs to Sneek (p . 344 ), and another to Drachten (11/2-2 hrs. ). — To the left are several lakes , the largest of which is the Sneeker Meer. Numerous windmills are used for purposes of drainage. From (87 M.) Akkrum , the next station , a canal- boat runs to Sneek (p . 344) and to Bolsward (Wynberg) , with 5300 inhab . and two churches ( 15th and 13th cent. ) , which contain richly- carved late Gothic choir-stalls (about 1450) , fine tombstones, etc. The * Stad huis ( 1614-16) is the finest Renaissance building in Friesland. 90 M. Grouw - Irnsum ; 93 M. Wirdum. 98 M. Leeuwarden, see p. 344. The MEPPEL AND GRONINGEN LINE at first turns towards the E. , and follows the course of the small Oude Diep. At (70 M. from Amersfoort) Hoogeveen the stream is quitted , and the line turns to the N. Between (77 M. ) Beilen and Hooghalen the Oranje Kanaal is crossed . 86 M. Assen ( * Somer ), a town with 7800 inhab . , partly con cealed by wood , the capital of the province of Drenthe. The tumuli or 'giants' graves' at Rolde (1/2 hr.'s drive from Assen ), and at Gieten, Eext, Borger, etc. , are objects of great interest to the antiquarian . The huge stones which mark these spots recall those of Stonehenge. - > 2 350 Route 45 . GRONINGEN. From Amsterdam

Beyond Assen the line follows the course of the Oude Aa , at some distance from the stream . Just before reaching (93 M. ) Vries Zuidlaren we obtain a view of an excellent specimen of a tumulus, close to the railway . 951/2 M. De Punt ; 98 M. Haren . 102 M. Groningen. Hotels. *DOELEN , in the Groote Markt, R. & B. 13/4, L. & A. 3/4, D. 11/2 fl.; *Frigge, Heerenstraat, R., L. , & A. 11/4-13/4, B. 3/4, D. incl. wine 21/2 fl .; *ZEVEN PROVINCIEN, in the Groote Markt; T'WAPEN VAN !AMSTERDAM ; * BLAAUWE PAARD, near the Nieuwe Kerk , unpretending Cafés- Restaurants. Hackerbräu , Groote Markt; Willems, Heerenstraat; Van der Sluis, Vischmarkt ; De er , Groote Markt ; Bavaria, Guldenstraat Osnabrücker Bierhalle, Stoeldraaierstraat. Tramway from the station to the Groote Markt and thence to the Ebbingeport and the station of the Delfzyl railway (10 c.) , with a branch to the Sterrebosch (12 c . ) . Groningen , the capital of the province of the same name, with 54,300 inhab. (7000 Rom . Cath ., 3000 Jews), lies at the junction of the Drenthe’sche Aa, or Hoornsche Diep, and the Hunse, or Drentsche Diep. The latter is called Reitdiep from this point to its mouth , and being converted into a canal , with two locks, is navigable for large sea-going vessels . Rape-seed and grain are the staple commodities of the place. The peasants who cultivate the former are generally free holders, and often remarkably well-to- do , many of them possessing 10-20 horses . The old fortifications have been converted into boule vards and gardens. The GROOTE MARKT, or market-place, is one of the most spacious in Holland. The Church of St. Martin ( Pl. C , 2) situated here is a fine Gothic structure with a lofty tower (432 ft. ) , erected after a fire in 1627. Opposite to it is the extensive Stadhuis (Pl. C, 2), restored in 1787-1810. Behind is the elegant Collectehuis (Pl. C, D), 2) of 1635. Many of the private houses (17th cent. , etc.) are of interest to the student of architecture. The University (Pl. C, 3) , founded in 1614 , possesses an excel lent natural history museum , which is established in the hand some academy buildings (erected in 1851) , with their fine Ionic colonnade. There are 39professors and about460 students. A collec tion of Germanic antiquities is in course of formation . Among the treasures of the library is a copy of the New Testament of Erasmus with marginal annotations by Luther. Opposite is the Roman Catholic Broederkerk, adorned with large pictures of the Passion by L. Hendricx ( 1865 ). The Deaf and Dumb Asylum, supported chiefly by voluntary contributions, educates 200 pupils . Public examinations on Wed nesdays, 11-12 o'clock. A small monument to the founder Guyot has been erected in the ox -market (Pl. C, 3) , in front of the building . To the N. is the Noorderkerk (Pl. B, 3) , built in 1660-64 on the plan of the church of the same name in Amsterdam. To the S. is the Aa - Kerk (Pl. B. 2 ), with a curious tower of 1712. The Harbour (Ooster, Noorder, Zuider Haven) generally pre - B с E F OG Nieuwe lwe Schans ONINGEN. Damat dipe பாவ Qoster 100 1: 18.000 Meter 200 300 100 Veemarkt Zuide WSJON Memory SZURICH INIWA Syr: Josefin Schou Cymraeg tep Denyerutid ++N. 1274 Radenkt. age SON leer fet Hosp Mauerlin kerk Tost 2 2 Zunge Str Crpote BLAN Exercitie Veld adhi Hermal gesny Hounge TakEYEaal TION Du ATTACI Vischmarkt igaumge St Stations AMA alonga gebouw Beurs rend Botezinge Seruar Hae Broer Justitie Academie arsa kerk Stoelegant Jornalholm 3 eta de ASA Stark Www.2024 3 Boterdiep Haven Nems TOTO VULCRTKURT De Bedum TONA HarmonieAC Wrand osch Sen laven 28 Straat Lie ad Westergade Son Sooyder loy ozen HORST Nardaraya vieure Bo terür gestraat ZONYC CESAVE NET Labarat ATION AT entered Testeria W! llaven Leuda Mestrer sur Gach Saan EHarlingen F D c B Wagner& Debs, Leipzig Ceogr Anst, von 1 1 . to Groningen . GRONINGEN . 45. Route . 351 sents a busy scene. Extensive warehouses have recently been erected on the E. side of the town . The projecting corner of a street in the vicinity , called the ' oude kiek in't jat straat ' ( 'the old peep into the harbour street ) , is adorned with the head of a bearded man , with the inscription ' Ick kiek noch in't' ( ' I still peep into it). It is said to commemorate a siege by the Bishop of Münster and the electoral troops of Cologne in 1672 , when the besiegers were compelled to retreat, as they were unable to prevent supplies being brought into the town by the Reiddiep. The inscription im ports , that , as long as the harbour is free from enemies, no real danger from besiegers need be apprehended. From GRONINGEN TO DELFZYL, 181/2 M. , railway in 13/4 hr. The train skirts the Eems- Kanaal, passing several unimportant stations. — Delfzyl lies on the Dollart, a gulf 6 M. broad, at the mouth of the Ems, formed in 1277 by an inundation . On the opposite side of the Dollart lies Emden (see Baedeker's Northern Germany) . To the N.W. of Groningen lies the island and bathing -resort of Schiermonnik -Oog ( Inn , in the village ;Badhotel, 11/2 M. from the village, pens . at both 31/2 fl . ) , frequented chiefly by the Dutch themselves. A steamer plies thither in about 6 hrs.; landing difficult. - 46. From Groningen to Bremon . 107 M. Durch RAILWAY to Nieuweschans or Neuschanz , 29 M. , in 1-11/4 hr . ( fares 2 fl. 35, 1 fl . 90 , 1 11. 20 c . ) ; OLDENBURG Railway to Bremen , 78 M., in 33/4 hrs. (fares 7 marks 60 , 5 m. 70 , 3 m. 80 pf. ) Groningen , p . 350. The line generally skirts a canal called the Schuiten or Winschoter Diep . That part of the province of Groningen which lies to the S. of the railway has been converted , in the course of the present cent. , by dint of unremitting industry , from a barren waste into fruitful fields. New villages are constantly springing up here . 71/2 M. Kropswolde ; 9 M. Hoogezand ; 14 M. Zuidbroek (with a brick church of the 13th cent.) ; 18 M.Scheemda ; 21 M. Winschoten (Hôtel Wissemann ), also with a 13th cent, brick church , is connected by a steam -tramway with Finsterwolde. About 11/2 M. from Winschoten , at Heiligerlee , a monument was erected in 1873 to commemorate the first victory of the Netherlanders under Louis of Nassau, brother of William the Silent , over the Spaniard in 1568 , with which the 80 years' struggle for liberty began. The monument re presents Batavia with the flag of liberty ; at the side of the latter an en raged lion ; underneath , the dying Adolph of Nassau , youngest brother of William the Silent, who fell during the battle. 281/2 M. Nieuweschans, German Neuschanz, is the last place in Holland. 311/2 M. Bunde ; 35 M. Weener ; 40 M. Ihrhove. Thence, viâ Leer and Oldenburg, to Bremen, see Baedeker's Northern Germany. 47. From Amsterdam and Arnhem to Zutphen and Rheine. DUTCH STATE RAILWAY. From Amsterdam to Zutphen (66 M.), rail way in 21/3-23 /4 hrs.; from Arnhem to Zutphen, 19 M. , railway in 1/2-1 hr. ( from Amsterdam viâ Arnhem to Zutphen , 75 M. , express in 21/2 hrs.). From Zutphen to Rheine, 58 M. , in 21/ 2-31/2 hrs. 352 Route 47. APELDOORN. From Amsterdam > This is the route followed by the night express- trains between Amster dam or Rotterdam and the whole of N. Germany. From Amsterdam to Berlin , night-express in 12 hrs. ( fares 57 m . 30 , 43 m . 30 pf.); from Rotter dam to Berlin express in 14 hrs. ( fares 61 m. 60 pf. , 47 m .) . From Amsterdam to ( 281/2 M. ) Amersfoort, sée R. 45. — 381/2 M. Barneveld, pleasantly situated to the S. of the station . 55 M. Apeldoorn (De Moriaan ; Hôtel Apeldoorn ; Het Loo or Keizerskroon and De Nieuwe Kroon , near the château ), a large and wealthy village with 3000 inhab ., is picturesquely situated on the Grift and the Dieren Canal. The produce of its numerous paper-mills is principally exported to the E. Indies. Near Apel doorn is the royal château of Loo , the favourite residence of Wil liam I. and William III. The palace is shown only in the absence of the queen , but visitors are admitted to the *Park daily after 10 a.m. oil application to the gardener. The train now crosses the Dieren Canal . 63 M. Voorst, pret tily situated , with numerous villas . The train crosses the Yssel by an imposing bridge, together with the Arnhem line (see below) . 66 M. Zutphen , see below. ARNHEM , see p . 357. - The train follows the direction of the New or Guelders Yssel, an arm of the Rhine which begins above Arnhem and owes its origin to a canal constructed by the Roman general Drusus in B. C. 13 to connect the Rhine with the Zuider zee. The line, however, seldom touches the river. 4 M. Velp , see p. 359. Numerous pleasant country -- houses are passed. 71/2 M. De Steeg, the station for Rhedersteeg, a popular Dutch watering-place, with the château of Rhederoord (*De Engel Inn ). A pleasant walk may be taken from De Steeg through the pretty ‘Middachten Allee' to Dieren , the next station . 101/2 M. Dieren , with several attractive villas. Near Dieren is the hydropathic esta blishment of Laag Soeren. A STEAM TRAMWAY runs from Dieren to Doesborgh (Hôtel Gelria) , a small town at the union of the Old and the New Yssel, which was stormed by the Spaniards in 1585, and then along the Old Yssel to Deutichem ( p . 367) and ( 2 hrs . ) Terborgh. 14 M.Brummen , with the villas of numerous wealthy Dutch merchants. To the E. rise the hills of the Veluwe ( p . 357). The train crosses the Yssel together with the Apeldoorn line (see above) . 19 M. Zutphen (* Keizerskroon , R. & B.13/4, D. 11/2 fl.; Hollandsche Tuin, in the Groenmarkt, R. & B. 13/4-21 4 , D. incl . wine 21/4 fl .; Soleil, R. & B. 2-21 / 2, D. incl. wine 21/2 fl.), situated at the con fluence of the Berkel and the Yssel , is a town with 17,200 inhab . , with remains of its mediæval fortifications on the Berkel and beyond. The most important edifice is the Church of St. Walburgis, or Groote Kerk, dating from the 12th century. It contains a copper * Fontsup ported by lions , in the Renaissance style , cast in 1527 , a Gothic candelabrum of gilded iron (spoiled by its conversion into gas brackets) , half-relief sculptures on the pulpit , and a handsome modern monument of the Van Heeckeren family, all of which > to Rheine, ZUTPHEN. 47. Route, 353 are worthy of inspection . The chapter-house , in which the capitals of the columns are noticeable, contains the old *Library, dating from pre- Reformation days ; the books (about 400 , including valuable MSS. and incunabula ) are chained to the desks . The upper part of the tower dates from 1637 , its predecessor having been destroyed by lightning. The Wynhuis Tower of the Stadhuis, with its two galleries , contains a good set of chimes. The vestibule, on the Lange Hoofdstraat, dates from 1660 ; on the ground - floor is the weigh - house. Several of the brick buildings (16-17th cent.) in the Zaadmarkt, Groenmarkt, etc. , are architecturallv interesting. The timber which is floated in rafts from the Black Forest down the Rhine and Yssel forms the chief article of commerce at Zutphen . About 21/2 M. to the N. of Zutphen is situated the agricultural colony of Nederlandsch Mettray, a Protestant institution founded in 1851 for the education of poor boys and foundlings. It was first instituted by Hr. Schutter , who presented 16,000 fl. for the purpose , and has since been liberally supported and extended by private contributions. The estate of Rysselt, about 50 acres in area , has been purchased by the society , and upwards of 150 boys are educated here (about 12 in each house ). FROM ZUTPHEN TO WINTERSWYK , 271/2 M. , railway in 1 hr. 5 min. Stations : Vorden , Ruurlo (junction for Zevenaar,p. 367), Lichtevoorde- Groenlo. The line is prolonged from Winterswyk to Bocholt and Wesel ( p . 369) and also to Dorsten . No quick trains . a FROM ZUTPHEN TO ZWOLLE , 281/2 M., railway in 14/4-11/2 hr. ( fares 1 fl. 50, 1 fl. 20, 65 c . ) . 5 M. Gorsel. 10 M. Deventer ( Engel ; Moriaan ; De Keizer, at the station , well spoken of) , situated on the frontier of Guelders and Over - Yssel ( i.e. ' beyond the Yssel' ), is a clean and prosperous town with 23,000 inhab ., the birth place of the celebrated philologist Jacob Gronovius ( 1645-1716 ), and the theologian Gerrit Groote ( 1340-84) . The large Gothic * Groote Kerk, or church of St. Lebuinus, has a Romanesque crypt of the end of the 11th cent, and a fine Gothic tower of the 15th -cent. ; the other tower is unfinished . The Berg Kerk has two late Romanesque towers . The Stadhuis contains a good picture by Ter burg, who was burgomaster of Deventer in his later years and died here in 1681. The neighbouring Police Office is a Renaissance edifice of 1632. In the ‘ Brink ’, the finest square in the town, are the late- Gothic Weigh - House of 1528 (now a gymnasium ), with a large outside staircase of 1643-44, and several elegant private houses ( “ Three Golden Herrings' , etc.). The town possesses several thriving iron - foundries and carpet-manufactories. Deventer is locally famous for its honeycakes , a kind of gingerbread , tons of which are annually sent to different parts of Holland . In the church of the village of Bathmen , 6 m. to the E. of Deventer, some frescoes of the 14th cent. ( 1379 ? ) were brought to light in 1870. 31 M. Diepenveen , 11/2 M. from the station ; (16 M. Olst, with 4400 inhab. and extensive brick-fields . 20 M. Wyhe (De Bra bantsche Wagen ; Greeve) , a straggling village with 4000 inhab . , in a beautifully -wooded district with numerous villas (“Buiten BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 23 354 Route 48. DIEMERMEER. From Amsterdam plaatsen '). 24 M. Windesheim , formerly the seat of a convent. - 281/2 M. Zwolle, see p. 347. FROM ZUTPHEN TO RHBINB . The line traverses a district inter sected by numerous canals. Several unimportant stations. Near Delden (Hôtel Carelshaven ) is the château of Twickel, with a pretty park . At (28 M. from Zutphen) Hengelo our line intersects the line from Münster to Almelo andZwolle ( p. 347) . Beyond Oldenzaal the line crosses the Prussian frontier. Gildehaus is the first German station . 44 M. Bentheim ( Bellevue ; *Bad Bentheim ), a small and pic turesquely -situated town, is commanded by a château , the oldest parts of which are said to date from the 10th century. The Bent heim mineral spring is efficacious in cases of gout and rheumatism . The German custom-house examination takes place here. Next station Schüttorf. At (53 M. ) Salzbergen our train reaches the Westphalian Railway , which it then follows to Rheine. 58 M. Rheine ( * Hôtel Schulze ; *Railway Restaurant), see Baedeker's Northern Germany. 48. From Amsterdam or Rotterdam to Utrecht and Arnhem . RAILWAY from Amsterdam to (22 M.) Utrecht in 3/4-11/4 hr. ( fares 1 n. 80, 1 1.40, 90 c .). From Rotterdam to (38 M. ) Utrecht in 11 /4-13 /4 hr. ( fares 2 11. 70, 2 fl. 5, 1 fl. 35 c . ). From Utrecht to ( 35 M.) Arnhem in 1-11/2 hr. ( fares 2 n . 90,' 2 fl. 20 , 1 fl. 50 c . ) . The express-fares are one- fifth higher . FROM AMSTERDAM TO UTRECHT. The immediate environs of Am sterdam consist chiefly of polders (p . xxix). The most remarkable of these , and one of the lowest in Holland , is the Diemermeer (16 ft. below the mean sea-level) , the W. side of which the train skirts soon after quitting the station . Extensive nurseries and kitchen -gardens, intersected by numerous canals , are also passed. The old road , of which little is seen from the railway , is bordered with a succession of villas , summer-houses , and gardens , most of them the property of wealthy merchants of Amsterdam, and extend ing the whole way to Utrecht. Numerous steamboats ply on the Vecht, and an excursion in one of them, e. g. from Utrecht to Nieuwersluis, is very enjoyable. —The stations are Abcoude, Loenen Vreeland, Nieuwersluis (where the train crosses the Vecht), Breu kelen ( see p . 356), and Maarssen . 22 M. Utrecht, see R. 50. FROM ROTTERDAM TO UTRECHT. The train starts from the Rhenish Station on the Maas (Pl . G, 3), and traverses a district of canals and pastures. 41/2 M. Capelle ; 7 M. Nieuwerkerk . The line skirts the E. side of the extensive Zuidplas- Polder. Beyond (10 M. ) Moordrecht the Kromme Gouw is crossed . 121/2 M. Gouda, commonly called Ter - Gouw (* De Zalm, in the to Arnhem . GOUDA. 48. Route . 355 . other more or market- place, R. , L. , A. , & B. 21/4, déj. 11/2 , D. 134, omn . 1/4 f1 . ), a town of some importance at the confluence of the Gouw and the Yssel (which must not be confounded with the river of that name in Guelders, see p. 352) , with 17,400 inhab . , is encircled with fine old trees. Two hours suffice to inspect the stained glass in the Groote Kerk and visit the Museum . On leaving the railway- station we take the street to the left, which soon turns to the right and leads across several canals to ( 1/4 M.) the market-place , with the town hall (see below) . Near it is the Groote Kerk ; entrance on the S. side of the choir ; the sacristan (20 c .) lives at No. 33 A, opposite. The GROOTE KBRK (St. John ), founded in 1485, and rebuilt after a fire in 1552, is a striking example of late -mediæval art. The round - arched arcades are borne by thirty - six circular pillars. The lofty barrel- vaulting is of wood. The beautiful * Stained - glass Windows illustrate the transition from the ecclesiastical style of glass-painting to the heraldic and allegorical style of secular art at that period. There are in all 29 large and 13 smaller stained - glass windows, pre sented by princes, towns, and private individuals after the above-men tioned fire. The best of these ( 12 in number) were executed by the bro thers Wouter and Dirk Crabeth in 1555-77; the others being the work of less well- known masters ( Lambert van Noort, Willem Tybaut) down to 1603. Some of them have unfortunately been indifferently restored in the 17th cent. and later. The subjects of the older windows are Scriptural, with figures of saints and of the donors, those of the later are armorial bearings or allegorical representations. The following are by the brothers Crabeth : No. 5. (beginning from the main entrance ), Solomon and the Queen of Sheba ; 6. Judith and Holofernes ; 7. Last Supper, presented by Philip II . of Spain , whose portrait it contains ; 8. Punishment of Heliodorus, the desecrator of the temple ; 12. ( farther on , in the retro -choir ) Nativity ; 14. Preaching of John the Baptist ; 15. Baptism of Christ; 16. Preaching of Christ ; 18. John the Baptist in prison ; 22. Christ driving the merchants and money-changers out of the Templé, a gift of William I. of Orange , afterwards enlarged ; 23. Christ washing the feet of the Disciples ; at the top, Elijah's sacrifice ; 24. Below , Peter and John healing the lame man ; above, Philip baptising the Ethiopian eunuch. – The coloured drawings and the original cartoons of the brothers Crabeth are preserved in the sacristy . The Municipal Library, a considerable collection, is kept in an adjoining room . The late- Gothic Stadhuis (1449-59) in the middle of the market place , with a Renaissance outside staircase , is a most noteworthy building by Cools. Behind it is the Meat Market. The tasteful Weigh-house, by Pieter Post, also in the market-place , is adorned with a masterly relief by Barth . Eggers . The Town Museum (adm. 25 c . ) , in the market- place, chiefly contains antiquities connected with the town, and a few corporation pictures and portraits by Wouter Crabeth the Younger, Corn . Ketel (b. at Gouda in 1578) , and others. The chief objects of interest are a corporation-piece by Ferd . Bol , and a fine enamelled and gilded chalice and paten , presented to the ‘ sh ers ' guild' of Gouda by the Countess Jacqueline of Bavaria in 1425 . - The adjacent Or phanage contains a good regent-piece by J. Verzyl . 23 * 356 Route 48 . WOERDEN. From Amsterdam A bronze statue of Cornelis Houtman , the founder of the Dutch E. Indian trade (end of the 16th cent.), and one of his brother Frederik , both natives of Gouda, were erected here in 1880, from models by Strackée of Amsterdam. The staple commodities of Gouda are bricks ( klinkers), the ma terial for which is obtained from the muddy bed of the Yssel , the deposits of which are admirably adapted for the purpose. The cheese named after this town is of inferior quality . The earthenware pipes of Gouda ( Goudsche Pypen ) are celebrated From GOUDA TO THE HAGUE, 171/2 M., branch -line of the Rhyn-Spoorweg in 1/2-3 /4 hr. ( fares 1 fl. 45 , 1'fl. 15 , 70 c. ). Stationg Zevenhuizen - Moer kapelle , Zoetermeer -Zegwaard , Voorburg, and the Hague (p . 259). Tram way to Scheveningen in connection with th trains, see p. 276. Gouda is connected by steam -tramway with Bodegraven (p .258 ; 40 min. ) , on the railway from Leyden to Utrecht, and with Oudewater (see below ; 1 hr. , eight times daily) . 20 M. Oudewater, on the Yssel , was the birthplace of Ar minius, after whom the 'Remonstrants' (p . 378) were called Armin ians . A picture in the Stadhuis by Dirk Stoop commemorates the brutal excesses committed here by the Spaniards in 1575. 24 M. Woerden, with 4000 inhab. , situated on the ‘ Old Rhine', formerly a fortress, was captured and cruelly treated by the army of Louis XIV. under Marshal Luxembourg in 1672 (an event de scribed by Voltaire) . In 1813 it was occupied by the Dutch, but taken by the French under General Molitor and again plundered. The fortifications have now been demolished, and their site converted into public promenades, which afford a fine view of the town and its environs. The former town- hall (1501 and 1614) is a quaint and picturesque little building , with an old pillory in front of it ; the carved panelling of the council - chamber dates from 1610. From Woerden to Leyden, see p. 258. Beyond ( 251/2 M. ) Harmelen the canals become rarer , and the country more undulating and agricultural. The Amsterdam line diverges here, and unites with the direct line from Utrecht to Am sterdam at stat. Breukelen (p . 354) . 38 M. Utrecht, see R. 50. FROM UTRECHT TO ARNHEM. The train now crosses the canal ( Vaartsche Rhyn) which connects Utrecht with the Lek (as the prin cipal branch of the Rhine is called) . 71/2 M. Zeist , a picturesque and thriving village, but not visible from the railway ( tramway to Driebergen, see p. 366 ; to Utrecht, see p. 362). It is the seat of a Moravian settlement (about 260 members ) , established here in 1746, with which a good school is connected . The community resides in a pile of contiguous build ings, possessing many of their goods in common, and strictly ob serving the precepts of their sect. They somewhat resemble the Quakers of England, and are remarkable for the purity and simpli city of their lives. Married women, widows, and young girls are dis

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Wagner &Debes ,Leipzig . Metering misskanten Tivoli Ij het STT n straatje wat Korte dik Brboek 1 born . 1Kil Warnsborn RECOR . Kilom 16 Wageningen . Kilom 4 Oosterbee De Broekst , Spro or weg Broekstraat De Arkendachste IJsseloordsche Polder 600 chlap Broodfabr . IJssel CS T02 Waard IJsseldijker Lassezdit . Rij 17 to Arnhem. ARNHEM. 48. Route. 357 tinguished by a difference of costume. The environs are carefully cultivated . Gardens, orchards, plantations , corn - fields, pastures , and villas are passed in rapid succession . During the harvest the corn is stacked in a peculiar manner, and protected by roofs . 14 M. Maarsbergen ; 21 M. Veenendaal, noted for its honey ( route to Amersfoort, see p . 373) ; 29 M. Ede. From Ede a tramway runs to Wageningen , an old town 41/2 M. to the S. , connected with the Rhine by a short canal . It is the seat of an agri cultural institution , ' S Ryks Landbouw school, with an experimental station and a collection of agricultural objects ( including a series illustrating the development of the plough ). The Grebbe (Hôtel Grebbe, well spoken of) , between Wageningen and Rhenen, ( p. 373) , affords pleasant wood- walks . On the river bank, about halfway between the two places, rises the Heimenberg, an eminence com manding an extensive view over the Veluwe. A bench at the summit, called the Koningstafel, derives its name from the Elector Palatine Frederick , King of Bohemia, who, having been banished from his dominions after the Battle of the White Hill , near Prague, in 1620, sought an asylum with his uncle Prince Maurice of Orange, aud ' lived in retirement at Rhenen. Some of the events in his romantic career are well described by G. P. R. James in his 'Heidelberg'. Near ( 31 M.) Wolfhezen is an extensive heath stretching to the Zuiderzee, which has been frequently used as a military exer cising-ground by Dutch and French armies. One of the latter , by command of Marshal Marmont in 1805 , threw up a lofty mound on the heights between Ede and Veenendaal, to commemorate the coronation of Napoleon I. ; an adjacent village also received the name of ‘ Austerlitz' . 33 M. Oosterbeek, with numerous villas . Near it are the mansion of Duno and the château of Doorwerth, with its double towers. As Arnhem is approached the train com mands several picturesque glimpses of the Rhine on the right, and of Sonsbeek ( p . 359) on the left. The fertile district to the right, enclosed by several branches of the Rhine, is known as the Betuwe or ' good island' , while the sandy tract to the N. , between Arnhem aud the Zuiderzee, is called the Veluwe , or ' barren island' . 35 M. Arnhem. Hotels . " BELLEVUE ( Pl . d) , in an open situation on the W. side of the town , commanding a fine view and suitable for a prolonged stay, R. & L. 2-10 fl., A. 25-40 c., D. 21/2, pens. 6, board 4 1. , omn. 40 c.; *HÔTEL DE Zon (du Soleil ; Pl. a ), near the bridge- of-boats, outside the town on the N.W. side , and the nearest to the station and the pier of the Netherlands Steamboat Co. , R. 11/2 11. , L. 30 , A. 25, B. 75 c ., D. 2 11.; HÔTEL DES Pays- Bas (Pl. b) , in the Groote Markt, not far from the pier of the Cologne and Düsseldorf Steamboat Co .; * ZWYNSHOOFD ( Pl. c ; 'Boar's Head' ), in the town, R. & B. 2, D. 11/2 11. ; * DE PAAUW ("Peacock '), near the 'station , a small second- class inn. For a long stay: * HÔTEL GARNI PLANTEN EN VOGELTUIN, on the Velp road, R. 11 / 2-51 / 2, L. &A. 80 c . , B. 3/4, déj. 11/4 , D. 21/4, pens . 61/2-101/2, board 4, omn. 11/4 il. Restaurants . * Café Central, Vyzelstraat, Railway Restaurant. Tramways through the town and to Velp ( p. 359). — Steam Tramways to Ede and Wageningen (see above), and viâ Oosterbeek (see abovel, Renkum, Wageningen , and Rhenen (p. 373 ), to Driebergen (p . 366). Cab within the town , with 561bs. of luggage, 75 c. ; to Klarenbeek and Rozendaal , viâ the Steenen Tafel, returning by Bronbeek and Velp (24/4 24/2 hrs . ) , about 3 fl . Steamers to Nymegen and Rotterdam, and also up the Rhine, once or twice daily in summer. 3 358 Route 48. ARNHEM. Arnhem , perhaps the Roman Arenacum, with 50,000 inhab . ( 1/2 Rom. Cath .), formerly the residence of the Dukes of Guelders , is still the capital of the Dutch province of that name, whose inhabi tants are described by an old proverb as ' Hoog van moed, klein van goed, een zwaard in de hand, is ' t wapen van Gelderland' ( ' Great in courage, poor in goods , sword in hand, such is the motto ofGuelder land'). The town lies on the S. slopes of the Veluwe range of hills, and was re - fortified by General Coehorn at the beginning of the 18th cent., after it had been taken by the French in 1672. The town, which was garrisoned by French troops , was taken on 13th Nov., 1838, by Bülow's corps of the Prussian army, the same which distinguished itself at the Battle of Waterloo. Arnhem , which is one of the most attractive - looking towns in Holland , is a favourite residence of Dutch ' nabobs' from the East Indies . The old fortifications have been converted into promenades, and handsome new buildings are springing up on all sides . The old late- Gothic Sebis Gate (exterior front 1642), at the end of the Groote Markt, has been preserved. Leaving the station and bearing to the left, we pass through several fine new streets and soon reach the GROOTE MARKT, in which the Groote Kerk and the Stadhuis are situated. The choir of the late- Gothic Groote Kerk (Pl. 1 ), which was completed in 1452, contains the monument of Charles van Egmont, Duke of Guelders (d . 1513) , a recumbent mail - clad figure in white marble, on a sar cophagus of black and white marble, adorned with reliefs of the Apostles , etc. Above , on the N. wall of the choir, is the kneel ing figure of the Duke beneath a wooden canopy, covered with the suit of armour worn by him during his life -time. (The sacristan lives on the N. side of the church, fee 25 c. ) In the ambulatory is the elegant memorial tablet of the chancellor Joost Sasbout (d . 1546) , by Jacob Colyn. - To the E. of the church rises the Stad huis (Pl. 2 ), erected as a palace by Maarten van Rossum, general of Duke Charles of Guelders, the indefatigable opponent of the Emp. Charles V. (modernized and converted to its present use in 1830 ). It is popularly known as the Duivelshuis , from its quaint sculptural decorations. The public Library, behind the Town Hall , contains mainly theological, historical, and legal works. - The Museum van Oudheden en Kunst (adm. on Wed. 1-4, free ; in summer also on Sun. , 11.30-2.30 ), also in the Groote Markt, contains seals, coins, portraits, architectural models, etc. The gems of the collection are a carved ivory diptych of the 13th cent. , forming the binding of a manuscript copy of the Gospels (Evangeliarium ) of the 14th cent . , from the Bethlehem Monastery near Deutichem , and seven silver guild - cups of the 17-18th centuries . The Prinsenhof, of the middle of the 17th cent. , is architecturally interesting. It is now occupied by Messrs. Hesselink's wine- house . The Roman Catholic Church of St. Walburga (Pl. 3), to which HERSTAL. 49. Route. 359 The the St. Walburg- Straat leads to the right ( S.) of the Stadhuis, con tains a modern carved altar and a handsome Gothic pulpit. ENVIRONS. The district around Arnhem is the most picturesque in Holland . The grounds of many of the numerous country - seats in the vicinity are open to visitors . The inns are generally good. About 3/4 M. to the N. is *Sonsbeek , the seat of Baron van Heeckeren. Theentrance is near the railway- station, about 1/2 M. to the N. of the town. The park and grounds are open to the public on Mon. and Wed. ( visitors ring the ' Bel voor den Poortier'). The custodian of the grounds, who also shows the Belvedere Tower , lives at the entrance (fee for 1 pers . 1/2 fl ., for a party 1-11 /2 fl . ). The park contains fine groups of trees, fish -ponds, waterfalls , grottoes, a deer- park , a riding-course, etc. Belvedere commands a beautiful view of the park and the fertile Betuwe as far as the Eltener Berg and the distant heights of Cleve . Immediately below the town rises the Reeberg, an eminence with extensive pleasure – grounds and a casino where concerts are fre quently given . Higher up is the country -residence of Heyenoord, adjoining which there are beautiful walks through the woods in all directions, provided with benches at intervals . In the opposite direction , to the E. of Arnhem , rises a range of heights, along the base of which runs the * Velp Road (to Zut phen ). Carriage, see p . 357. Upwards of 3 M. from Arnhem , on the left, is Klarenbeek , where , from the ' Steenen Tafel' ( stone table), a fine view of the Rhine Valley is obtained . The Hospital for the soldiers of the colonial army at Bronbeek , close to Klaren beek , endowed by William III . , is worth visiting ; it contains a number of old cannon and other weapons captured in Acheen ( admission 50 c . ) . Farther on is the village of Velp ( railway -station , see p . 352 ; tramway 25 c .; tramway to Dieren, see p. 352 ), to the N. of which is the estate of Rozendaal, with fine trees , lakes , and fountains (fee 1/2 fl., a party 1 fl. ); adjacent is the Hôtel op den Berg. Other pleasant resorts are Biljoen, Beekhuizen ( * Hôtel Garni, “pens.' 31/2 fl .), Rhederoord , and Middachten ( fine avenue of beeches) . From Arnhem to Zutphen ( Salzbergen ), see R. 47; to Nymegen , see p. 370 . 9 or, 49. From Liège to Utrecht. 119 M. RAILWAY in 51/4-61/ 2 hrs.; fares 17 fr. 93, 13 fr. 90, 8 fr. 98 c . in Dutch money, 9 n . 50, 7 fl. 60 , 4 f. 75 cts . Liège , see p . 203. The train starts from the Station de Vi vegnis (comp. p. 203) . It then skirts the hills enclosing the Meuse, but at some distance from the river, as far as 2 M. Herstal, almost a suburb of Liège , the birthplace of Pepin le Gros' of Herstal , the majordomo of the palace, or chief officer of the king, and practically the regent of the great Frankish empire, as the power of the Merovingian monarchs had begun to decline. Herstal also contests with Aix - la - Chapelle the glory of being the birthplace of Charlemagne. In 870 Charles the Bald of France concluded a treaty here with Lewis the German concerning the partition of Lorraine. 360 Route 49. ' S HERTOGENBOSCH . From Liège The train now quits the valley of the Meuse, and turns to the N. to (6 M. ) Liers , from which a branch - line runs to Rocourt and Ans (p. 197) . 101/2 M. Glons ; 121/2 M. Nederheim . 14 M. Tongeren, French Tongres (* Hôtel du Casque ; Swartsen broek , new ; Toppet, plain ; Café Liégeois), the Roman Aduatica Tongri, is a town with 7200 inhabitants. At the beginning of the 4th cent. it was the seat of a bishop, whose residence, however, was removed to Maastricht in 346 to secure the protection of the latter's fortifications, and was afterwards transferred to Liège. The handsome Gothic Church of Notre Dame, erected in 124 with choir and tower of the 15th cent., possesses a valuable collection of sacred vessels , and Romanesque cloisters with fine sculptures. In the market- place is a bronze statue of Ambiorix . - Branch to St. Trond and Tirlemont, see p. 196. 20 M. Hoesselt ; 21 M. Bilsen (branch - line to Munsterbilsen p . 176) ; 24 M. Beverst (p . 176) ; 26 M. Diepenbeek. 31 M. Hasselt, where the line unites with the Antwerp, Maas tricht, and Aix-la-Chapelle railway (see p . 176) . Scenery uninteresting, but the bridges over the arms of the Meuse and Rhine towards the end of the journey are worthy of notice. StationsZonhoven, Helchteren, Wychmael-Beverloo, (junc tion of the line from Bourg-Léopold to Brée ), Exel, Neerpelt (junc tion for the Gladbach and Antwerp line , p. 177), (57 M.) Achel (last in Belgium) , ( 621/2 M. ) Valkenswaard ( first in Holland) , Waalre, (69 M.) Eindhoven ( p . 375 , junction of the Venlo line ), Best, (81 M.) Boxtel (p . 375) , and Vught (also connected with ' S Hertogenbosch by a steam - tramway). 891/2 M. ' S Hertogenbosch, or ' S Bosch, French Bois - le - Duc ( Eenhorn, R. , L. , A. , & B. from 2 fl., B. 80 c . , déj. 1 , D. 11/2, omn. 1/4 fl. ; Lion d'Or ; Maison Verte), on the Dommel, the Aa , and the Zuid - Willems - Canal, the capital of the province of N. Brabant, and strongly fortified down to 1876, with 27,200 inhab . , derives its name from Duke Godfrey of Brabant, who conferred municipal privileges on the town in 1184. Tramway from the station to different parts of the towni. The late - Gothic CATHEDRAL OF ST. JOHN (St. Jans Kerk ), built in 1458-98, with an old tower of the 11th cent., and , to the S. of the latter, a chapel of the 13th cent., is one of the three most important mediæval churches in Holland , the other two being the Cathedral of Utrecht and the Church of St. Nicholas at Kampen , both of which it surpasses in richness of ornamentation . It has a lofty nave with double aisles , and a handsome choir flanked with chapels . The interior contains modern stained glass , a brazen candelabrum of the 15th cent., a brazen font, cast in 1492, carved Gothic choir-stalls of the 15th cent., a large organ , and a beautiful pulpit by Cornelis Bloemart ( 1566-70), with statuettes (Christ, Evangelists, saints) and reliefs from the lives of SS. John the Evangelist and Andrew. > , to Utrecht. BOMMEL. 49. Route. 361 The building is now being restored. The Church of St. Catharine contains a number of pictures from the suppressed Abbey of Tongerloo. The Gemeentelyk Museum, in the upper floor of the Raadhuis, is open every forenoon ( adm . 1/2 fl., 2-3 pers. 1 fl . ) . It contains an cient plans of the town and neighbourhood, the silver seals of the chief magistrates from 1213 to 1795, valuables, coins, a few paint ings, instruments of torture, etc. The Museum of the Provin ciaal Genootschap van Kunst en Wetenschappen in Noordbrabant (open on week-days , 1-3) contains Roman , German, Franconian, and later antiquities, chiefly from N. Brabant , manuscripts , pic tures, drawings, maps, and coins. About 10 m. from Bois- le- Duc is the magnificent château of Heeswyk ( reached by steam - tramway in 1 hr . ), restored in the old - fashioned style, the property of Baron van den Bogaerde van Ter Brugge , containing an unusully extensive collection ofstate -weapons and other interesting mediaval and Renaissance objects. Strangers admitted on sending in their cards. Fee 1 tl. – The steam- tramway is prolonged hence to Veghel ( p. 368 ). The train crosses the Maas near (93 M. ) Hedel, and reaches 95 M. Bommel, or Zaltbommel (* Hôtel Gottschalk , plain ), for merly a strongly-fortified place (4000 inhab .), which was unsuc cessfully besieged by the Spaniards in 1599 and taken by Turenne in 1672 after a gallant defence . The ramparts are now occupied by beautiful avenues. The church possesses one of the finest and loftiest towers in the country (15th cent. ), and contains some ancient mural paintings. The House of Maarten van Rossum (p. 358) and various houses of the 17th cent, are architecturally interesting. The river is tidal up to this point. The train crosses the broad Waal. 9712 M. Waardenburg '; 100 M. Geldermalsen (p . 373 ), the junction for the Nymegen -Dor drecht railway, beyond which the Linge is crossed. Near ( 1051/2 M. ) Kuilenborg the Lek , or Lower Rhine, is tra versed by a bridge of a single arch, 164 yds . in span ( the largest in Europe) . Kuilenborg, or Culemborg, was once the seat of the counts of that name, who are frequently mentioned in the history of the Dutch War of Independence. Late-Gothic Raadhuis of 1534. About 6 M. above Kuilenborg , at the point where the kromme Rhyn (“ crooked Rhine' ) diverges from the Lek, lies Wyk-by -Duurstede, perhaps the Batavodurum of the Romans, and a commercial town of some impor tance ( Dorestadium ) in the time of Charlemagne. Adjacent is an old villa of the Bishops of Utrecht. Below Kuilenborg lie Vianen , supposed to be the Fanum Dianae of Ptolemy. The church contains the tomb of Reinoud van Brederode ( d. 1556 ), the friend of William of Orange. This monument, perhaps by Jacob Colyn, is of considerable importance in the history of plastic art . At Vreeswyk , connected with Vianen by a bridge- of-boats, are large sluices for the Keulsche Vaart, or canal uniting Amsterdam with the Rhine. 110 M. Schalkwyk ; 113 M. Houten. The train then crosses the Kromme Rhyn. — 119 M. Utrecht>, see p . 362. 362 > 50. Utrecht. Railway Stations. Utrecht has two railway - stations : that of the Rhynspoorweg (Pl. A , 3 ; see Route 49) , and that of the Oosterspoorweg ( Pl. D, 4 ; see Route 45 ). The latter line has also a small station in the Biltstraat (Pl. D, 1) . Hotels. *HÔTEL DES PAYS-BAS (Pl. a ; C , 2) , in the Janskerkhof, R. , L., & A. 13/4-3 , B.3/4, D. 2 , omn. 1/4 f.; HÔTEL DE L'EUROPE (Pl. c ; B, 2) , and BELLEVUE (Pl. d ; B ,2) , both on the Vreeburg ; * Vieux CHÂTEAU D'ANVERS (Pl. b ; B, 2) , Oude Gracht, R. , L. , & A. 11/2-13/4, B. 3/4, D. 2, omn. 1/2 fl.; DE LIGGENDE Os, in the Vreeburg (Pl. A , B , 2 ), an old Dutch house, R., B., &A. 2, D. at 4 p.m. 21/2 fl.; HÔTEL DE LA STATION ( Pl. e ; A, 2), opposité the Rhine Station, with restaurant and café, R. & B. 21/4, D. 2 fl.; HÔTEL BALLANGÉE, Biltstraat, R. , L., A. , & B. 2, déj. 1 , D. 21/2 fl . Restaurants. Haagsche Koffyhuis, on the Vreeburg (Pl. A , B , 2 ) ; Riche, Oude Gracht 63 (Pl . C, 3 ); Wiener Café, Oude Gracht C 30 (Pl. B , 2) ; Lotz , Oudkerkhof 84 , near the town-hall . Tivoli, in the Singel (Pl. D , 2 ), with a garden, popular entertainments. Cabs. From the stations into the town 1-2 pers. 60, 3 pers . 70 , 4 pers. 80 c.; per hr. for 1-4 pers . 1 fl., each additional " /hr . 2 c. Tramways . 1. From the station of the Rhynspoorweg through the town to the Oosterspoorweg Station (station Maliebaan ) , every 6 min . (fare 5-10 c . ) . — 2. Steam - tramway from the Rhynspoorweg Station to Zeist ( p. 356), every 1/2 hr. in summer, on Sun. every 20 min. ( fare 35 c . ) . 3. Steam- tramway to Vreeswyk (p. 361) about once an hr. in 50 min . Post Office , at the back of the cathedral. Telegraph Offices , in the Westerstraat (Pl. 25 ; A, 3) and in the Paushuizen ( p. 364). Utrecht ( “Oude Trechť , old ford ), the capital of the Dutch province of that name, with 85,300 inhab. ( 1/3 Rom. Cath. ), the Trajectum ad Rhenum ( ford of the Rhine) of the Romans, sub sequently called Wiltaburg by the Frisians and Franks , is one of the most ancient towns in the Netherlands. Dagobert, the first king of the E. Franks, founded the first church at Utrecht, then occupied by Frisians, whose bishop was St. Willebrordus . St. Boniface, a monk from Exeter, who afterwards became archbishop of Mayence, once taught here . Tbe archbishops of Utrecht were among the most powerful of mediæval prelates, and the town was celebrated at an early period for the beauty of its churches. It first belonged to Lorraine, and then to the German Empire, and was frequently the residence of the emperors. The Emp. Conrad II. died here in 1039, and the Emp. Henry V. , the last of the powerful Salic line , in 1125, and both were interred in the cathedral of Spires . The Emp. Charles V. erected the Vreeburg here after 1519 in order to keep the citizens in check , but it was destroyed in 1577 on the outbreak of the War of Independence. The site of the castle, at the entrance to the town from the station , still retains the name. Adrian Floriszoon Boeyens, the tutor of Charles V., one of the most pious and learned men of his age, afterwards Pope Adrian VI. , was born at Utrecht in 1459. In 1579 the Union of the seven provinces of Holland, Zeeland, Utrecht, Guelders, Over - Yssel, Friesland , and Groningen, whereby the independence of the Netherlands was established, was concluded in the Hall of the Academyof Utrecht under the presidency of Count John of Nassau, brother of William the Silent. The States General were in the habit of assembling here from that date down to 1593 , when the seat of government was transferred to the Hague. In 1672 Louis XIV. levied a heavy contribution upon the citizens. The celebrated Peace of Utrecht, which terminated the Spanish War of Succession , was concluded here on 11th April, 1713 . At Utrecht the Rhine divides into two branches , one of which , named the ' Old Rhine', falls into the North Sea near Katwyk( p. 285 ), while the other , called the Vecht, empties itself into the Zuider tecret the Sing WGURUnget Noorder ofruan Wikshade MOLLE LA LAVET siz puter stre Tre Straat kenns DZINOX OPST movitterssus cottest OCXR30 Catharya Vreden eud burg Kreisste aer Toiset Lacos Kromme Lugo Lidsche Leiden Schouwbur StaggSuria Oudkerkhof Stations Gebouw opisy Elisabetista பாலா OS2310 10 SA Termined Zadet Sorvetestr . Maria a Lootsbisschop Uplasts Muscuam tempat vepelen Turen sierade Sneosteca . rs: Zeolis 30 wa Ooster Spoon Vidares Shu oksteeg ZONO SH berg ur Kalenburg

Arnhem Escercitie ΛάππΡΙΑ Veld ATTI batre Pero Tria SPU TANGGA Nicolaaste பரம் Adres UTRECHT. Kerken . 13.Cellulaire berogenas.11 1. Domkerk en Toren C.3. 14. Geborar voor Kunsten å 2. Brokerk B.C.3. Wetenschapen .B.3 . 3. Jacobiekerk B.1. 15.Gororernement . C1.3 4. St Janskerk C.2. 16. GrootRijkslospital B.E. 5. StPieterskerk 1.3 . 17.Hortus Botanicus. D.5 . 6.7.8 . Oud . Ron Kath . Kerken 18.Meteor . Institrad Obser - vikebles (Jausen ) . B.3 Tutorien . D , 5 . 9. Synagoge C.4 . 19.Paleis van husticie .C.3.0 20.Policie Bureau 6 .C.2. Openbare Gebouwen . 21.Postkantoor .C.3 Alawemschool 10.Academie C.3. 22.Rijksmaont B.2. Hôtels. 11. Acad .Bibtiotheek D.2. 23. Schourborg B.2.a.Pays-Bas C.2, d . Bellevue B.2 . 24.Stadlnais .C.2.b.Oude Kasteel run Antur.B.2 . e. Hôt.de la Station A.2 . 12.Acad . Museon C.2.25. Telegraferikattoor A.3.c.Exarope . B.2 . B с D Geograph.Anstalt 1 : 15.000 Meter 100 DOO 300 200 Wagner . Debes ,Leipzi Torsteeg Singel 300

University. UTRECHT. 50. Route . 363 > zee near Muiden (p . 337). The town is intersected by two canals, the Oude and Nieuwe Gracht, which flow far below the level of the adjoining houses. Some of the rooms and vaults below the wharfs are ocoupied as dwellings. Picturesque street- vistas. The * Cathedral (Pl . 1 ; C, 3) , a spacious cruciform edifice in the Gothic style, dedicated to St. Martin , was erected in 1254-67 by Bishop Vianden on the site of the original church , which was founded by St. Willebrordus, Bishop of Utrecht, about 720, and completed by Bishop Adelbold in 1015. In consequence of a violent hurri cane on 1st Aug., 1674 , the nave fell in , and as it was never re erected , a wide interval has been left between the choir, with the transept, and the W. tower. When complete it was one of the finest and largest churches in Holland (comp. p. XXXVII). The INTERIOR ( the sacristan lives at the N.E. corner of the church ; 25 c . ), which is 115 ft. in height, and 30 ft . in width , is disfigured by pews, so that the impression produced by this venerable Gothic relic with its eighteen slender columns is almost entirely destroyed . The monument of Admiral van Gent, who fell in 1672 at the naval battle of Soulsbai, was executed in black and white marble by Rombout Verhulst in 1676. The monuments of Bishops Guy of Hainault (d . 1317) , Jan van Arkel (d. 1378 ), and George van Egmont (d. 1549) are also interesting. The extensive vaults beneath the choir contain the hearts of the German Emperors Conrad II , and Henry V. , who died at Utrecht. The fine Gothic * Cloisters adjoining the choir on the S. , re cently restored by Cuypers , connect the Cathedral with the Uni versity. In the space between the tower and choir a bronze statue of Count John of Nassau (see p. 362), by Strackée, was erected in 1883. The Cathedral Tower, formerly 364 ft . in height , now 338 ft. only, erected in 1321-82, having been begun by the architect Jan ten Doem of Hainault, rests on a handsome vaulted passage 36 ft . in height. It is square in form , with a double superstructure , of which the upper is octagonal and open . The chimes consist of 42 bells, one of which , the St. Salvator, adorned with an image of the Saviour, was cast in the 15th cent. and weighs 81/2 tons . A flight of 120 steps ascends to the dwelling of the sacristan (where the tariff for the ascent is exhibited : 1-2 pers . 25 c. ; for a larger party, 10 c . each) , 200 more to the gallery , and 138 thence to the platform . The view embraces almost the whole of Holland , and part of Guelders and N. Brabant. The University (Pl . 10 ; C , 3) , adjoining the cathedral, with which it is connected by the above-named cloisters, was founded in 1636 , and has long enjoyed a high reputation (36 professors and ca. 600 students ). The Aula, in the Gothic style, originally the chapter -house of the cathedral , was restored in 1879 from ancient plans. The Senate Room contains portraits of professors , including two ascribed to Frans Hals and Rembrandt. The chief academical institutions in this building are the Museum of Natural History, with preparations in wax by Dr. Koning, and the Physical and Phy siological Laboratories. a 364 Route 50 . UTRECHT. Museum . 7 The St. Pieterskerk (Pl. 5 ; 1,3), to the E. of the cathedral, originally a flat - roofed church, supported by columns, was founded in 1039 , but has been frequently renewed ; the curious old crypt with its columns is still preserved . The church is now used by a Walloon congregation . The St. Janskerk ( Pl. 4 ; C , 2 ), to the N. of the cathedral, in the Romanesque style ( 1050 ), with a late - Gothic choir of 1539 , contains several monuments of little merit. Adjacent is the Anatom ical Institute of the University ( Pl. 12) . The St. Jacobskerk (Pl. 3 ; B , 1 ) , founded in 1173 and restored in 1882, contains the mon ument of Pastor Huibert Duifhuis (d. 1581 ; below the organ ). The University Library (Pl. 11 ; C , D, 1 , 2) occupies the palace built for King Louis Napoleon in 1807. It contains 110,000 vols . and 1500 MSS. , including a psalter of the 9th cent . , embellished with miniatures, and several others of great value. The reading room is open from 11 to 4. The Paushuizen (pope's house), on the Nieuwe Gracht, recalls by its name Pope Adrian VI. ( p . 362) , who built in 1517 when Provost of St. Salvator . It now contains several public offices ( Pl . 15) , including a telegraph-office. On the gable is a fine statue of the Saviour (16th cent. ), the head of which is modelled after a work of Michael Angelo in S. Maria sopra Minerva (Rome). The * Archiepiscopal Museum ( Aartsbisschoppelyk Museum ; Pl . D, 3) affords an admirable illustration of all the branches of sacred art practised in the Netherlands. Admission daily, except Sun. and holidays, 10-5 ; 50 c. The collection is arranged in a number of small rooms. The pictures are chiefly by unknown Dutch or Flemish masters of the 15-17th centuries. Room I. On the entrance- wall are works of the Early Cologne School and on the right are a few old paintings by Sienese Masters. By the window are some costly bindings for Gospels, of the 11-13th centuries. Room II.: To the left, Embroidery for ecclesiastical vestments, 15-16th cent. ; in the middle, old printed Bibles; by the exit , two portraits attributed' to Jan van Schooreel. — Room III .: Embroideries of the 15-16th cent.; opposite the windows, Four pilgrims in the crypt of the church at Bethlehem , a large picture of the 16th cent.; in the glass- cases are chalices , ciboria, and other ecclesiastical vessels ; Byzantine Madonna of the 11th cent. and other carvings in ivory. Room IV. Sculptures. Christ blessing little children , à painting by Werner van den Valckert ( 1620 ). We now ascend to the upper floor. Room V. Ecclesiastical vestments, brocades from Ghent and Utrecht, and other textile fabrics of the 13-16th centuries . - Room VI. French, Dutch , and Venetian lace . The Roman Catholic Church of St. Catharine, in the adjoining Katherinsteeg (Pl. C, D, 4) , a late- Gothic building of 1524, was restored in 1880 from plans by Van Brink. The interior has been decorated with polychrome ornamentation, and contains a screen by Mengelberg of Utrecht. The Museum Kunstliefde, a small picture - gallery in the upper floor of the building of Arts and Sciences (Pl. 14 ; B, 3), contains a number of works by the early Utrecht masters, the chief of whom was Jan van Scorel, Schoorl, or Schooreel ( 1495-1562), one of the Stadhuis . UTRECHT. 50. Route. 365 first Dutch painters who visited Italy. Exhibitions of modern paintings are sometimes held here, during which the ancient works are inaccessible . Admission daily, 25 c. ; Sun, and holidays 1-4, free . The catalogue , by De Vries and Bredius, contains facsimiles of the signatures and coats-of-arms ( 11/2 f1 .). Principal pictures : *63-67. Jan van Schooreel, Portraits (p. xliv) of 38 citizens and ecclesiastics of Utrecht who made a pilgrimage together to Jerusalem (full of individuality ; 1525) ; *63. Schooreel,Virgin and Child, altar-piece from the chapel of the Holy Cross Hospital ; Joachim Wittewaal, Vegetable -seller; 53. Paul Moreelse (pupil of Mierevelt, p. 257), Portrait of a woman ; 31. Hendrik Goltzius, Ecce Homo; 61 bis . Roelandt Savery, Flowers ; 22.' J. C. Drooch Sloot, View of the goose- market and town - hall of Utrecht at the beginning of the 17th cent. ; 3. Abr. Bloemaert, Adora tion of the Magi ; 50. G. A. G. F. Mollinger , Landscape ; Unknown Artist, Portrait of a gentleman of the 16th cent.; J. van Haensbergen , Portrait of a child ; * Thos . de Keyser , Portrait of a woman with two children ; G. Honthorst, Death of Seneca, St. Peter ; Barth . van der Helst, Holy Family, one of the few pictures of this artist other than portraits ; Ferd. Bol , Lady in a hunting-dress ; Wappers, Burgomaster van der Werff at the siege of Leyden (p. 280). The Stadhuis (Pl . 24 ; C, 2) , built in 1830 , also contains a small collection of pictures and other objects of art (Museum van Oudheden) , which is arranged on the upper floor, and is open daily, except Sundays and holidays , from 10 to 4 ; admission 10 c . , Wed, free. Catalogue 1 fl. 75 c . The museum is to be removed in 1891 to a new building near the new public park ( p. 366 ). Room I. By the entrance , two richly- ornamented capitals of the 11th cent.; to the left , 75. Painted alto- relief, with a representation of John the Baptist, 11th cent. ; * 117. Alto -relief with the Madonna, St. James , and the donor, 15th cent., all from Utrecht churches. Room II. ( to the right) . In the middle, under glass, Model of the cathedral; farther on , No. 290 , carved table on which the Treaty of Utrecht ( 1713) is said to have been signed ; No. 423. Portrait of Emperor Henry IV . -- Room III . Reliefs with saints, from chimney-pieces of the 15th cent. (117. St. Martin dividing his cloak , 116. Four saints ); 145. Recumbent sepulchral figure of a knight, 14th cent. ; carved wooden brackets of the 15th cent. — Room IV. Upper part of a gable in the Renaissance style , with a statue of Charles V. (16th cent., badly restored ) ; between the windows, " Friezes from chimney pieces , with subjects after Raphael . - Room V. contains Roman and Germanic antiquities, including terracotta and bronze figures , prehistoric weapons, ivory carvings, coins and medals, and inscriptions . Room VI. Instruments of torture (17th cent. ) . Large stoneware jug , adorned with the Graces and fine Renaissance ornamentation, executed by Jan Eemensz of Cologne in 1578 ; French holster- pistol, with rich copper Renaissance ornamentation ; model of a Dutch citizen's house of the latter half of the 17th cent., with richly-carved furniture , miniature portraits by Moucheron and others , ivory carvings, and a silver stove ; collection of dies for seals and coins . - Room VII. contains several drawings of the cathedral ( before and after the fall of the nave) and other Utrecht churches, by P. Saenredam , H. Saftleven , J. Domer, and other 17th cent . artists ; copy of Schooreel's portrait of Pope Adrian VI. (p . 362) ; and mediæval coins from 1027 down wards, arranged in chronological order . Room VIII. Drawings and views of Utrecht in the 17-18th cent.; model of a lock near Utrecht . The Mint (' S Ryks Munt; Pl . 22) , where the money current in Holland and its E. Indian colonies is coined , contains Dutch coins and medals, dies , etc. , both ancient and modern. The Museum van Kunstnyverheid, in the Wittevrouwenbrug 366 Route 50 . UTRECHT. (Pl . D, 1 ) , founded in 1884, contains art - industrial collections, and is open daily, 1-4 (25 C. , Sun. free). The Flesher's Hall (Pl. C, 2 ), of 1637, in the Voorstraat, and various timber houses in the neighbourhood and in the Neude (Pl . B , C , 2) , are architecturally interesting. On the E. side of the town is the famous Maliebaan , a triple avenue of lime- trees , more than 1/2 M. in length , which was spared by the express command of Louis XIV. at a period when no respect was paid by his armies to public or private property. It is approached by the Maliebrug (Pl . D , 4), and then by a path to the left, leading towards the N.E., and is flanked by handsome houses. At the N.E. end of the Maliebaan is the Hooge Land, a new public park , near which is the new museum (comp. p. 365). — The Ram parts have been converted into pleasant promenades, everywhere bounded by flowing water. ENVIRONS. The country for many miles around Utrecht is attractive , being studded with numerous mansions, parks, and gardens, and fertilised by the ramifications of the Rhine and a number of canals. The finest of these seats is the château of Soestdyk, 12 M. to the N. of Utrecht, near the railway-station of Baarn (p. 346), presented by the States General in 1816 to the Prince of Orange (afterwards King William II . , d . 1849 ), in recog nition of his bravery at the Battle of Waterloo , which is commem orated by a handsome monument in the avenue. It now belongs to the present queen. The wood is open to the public . Another excursion may be taken by Zeist (p. 356) and Driebergen to (9 M. ) Doorn (tramway) , or to Amersfoort ( p.347) , Hilversum (p. 346 ), etc. Utrecht is the principal seat of the JANSENISTS, a sect of Roman Catholics who call themselves the Church of Utrecht, and who now exist almost exclusively in Holland. The founder of the sect was Bishop Jan senius of Ypres ( d . 1638 ; p . 28 ), whose five theses on the necessity of di vine grace in accordance with the tenets of St. Augustine ( published posthumously in a book termed ' Augustinus' ) were condemned by a bull of Alexander VII. in 1656 , at the instigation of the Jesuits , as heretical . The adherents of the bishop refused to recognise this bull, thus de facto separating themselves from the Church of Rome. The sect was formerly not uncommon in France and Brabant, but was suppressed in the former country by a bull of Clement XI. in 1713, termed Unigenitus' , to which the French government gave effect. The Dutch branch of the sect, how ever, continued to adhere to their peculiar doctrines. After various dis putes with the court of Rome , a provincial synod was held at Utrecht in 1763 with a view to effect a compromise. According to the resolutions of that assembly the 'Old Roman Ca tholics ' ( Roomsche Katholyken der oude Klerezy ) , as the Jangenists style themselves, do not desire to renounce their allegiance to the Pope and the Church of Rome. But ( 1 ) they reject the constitution of Alexander VII. of 1656 , on the ground that the five theses which it condemns are not truly to be found in the writings of Jansenius as alleged. ( 2) They re pudiate the bull ' Unigenitus', and appeal from it to a general Council, andthey adhere to the Augustine doctrine and its strict code of morality. ( 3) They insist on the right of chapters of cathedrals to elect their own bishops , and the right of bishops to consecrate other bishops, without the confirmation of the Pope as required by Gregory VII. The Archiepiscopal See of Utrechi comprises three parishes at Utrecht, CLEVE. 51. Route. 367 and sixteen in other towns and villages of Holland. To the Episcopal Diocese of Haarlem belong two parishes at Amsterdam , and six in other parts of Holland . A Jansenist community also exists at Nordstrand in Denmark. At Amersfoort ( p . 317 ) there is a seminary connected with this church. In all there are 27 Jansenist communities with 5350 adherents. 51. From Arnhem to Cologne. 1. Railway of the Left Bank (viâ Cleve and Crefeld ). 901/2 M. RAILWAY in 33 /4-41/ 2 hrs. , crossing the Rhine at Elten ( fares 7 f ) . 65 , 5 fl. 65 , 3 1. 85 c . ) . German frontier at Elten. Travellers en tering Germany should observe that all new articles , and objects not re quired for personal use , are liable to duty; the examination , however, is generally lenient. Steamboat, see p. 368. Stations Westervoort, Duiven . 81/2 M. Zevenaar, the frontier station of Holland and junction of a line viâ Deutichem and Ruurlo to Winterswyk (p. 353) . 131/2 M. Elten , is the frontier -station of Prussia. The line crosses the Rhine by means of a floating bridge propelled by steam . 171/2 M. Cleve (*Maywald , on a height to the S. ; *Badhôtel of Hôtel Styrum, in the Thiergarten , on the W. side of the town, both with large gardens; *Robbers, also in the Thiergarten ; * Prinzenhof, with a fine park ; * Loock , opposite the post-office ; * Holtzem , ad joining the Schloss ; Visitors' Tax 5 m. ) , once the capital of a duchy of that name, with 10,100 inhab., is charmingly situated on three hills which form part of a wooded range , and is much frequented as a summer-residence by Dutch families. The * Stifts kirche, an imposing brick edifice, contains several monuments of Counts and Dukes of Cleve ( the finest that of Adolph VI, d . 1394) , and one of Margaretha von Berg (d. 1425 ). In the market-place is the Lohengrin Monument, erected in 1882 to commemorate the legend of the Knight of the Swan, the scene of which is laid at Cleve . On the way to the Schloss rises a modern monument to John Sigismund, Elector of Brandenburg , who took possession of the Duchy of Cleve in 1609. On an abrupt and picturesque emi nence in the middle of the town rises the old Schloss or Schwa nenburg ( the court of which contains a Roman altar found in the neighbourhood ), with the * Schwanenthurm ( “ swan's tower'), 184 ft. in height. The latter was erected by Adolph I. in 1439, on the site of an ancient tower supposed to have been built by Cæsar. The Schwanenthurm and the * Clever -Berg, 1/2 M. distant, command the finest views on the Lower Rhine. To the S. the hills extend past the Prinzenhof (now a hotel and pension ), as far as ‘ Berg und Thaľ (* Restaurant). Those to the W., called the Thiergarten, are laid out as a park , and extend along the high - road as far as Nymegen. FROM CLEVE TO NIMEGEN , 17 M ,, railway in 3 /4-1 hr. ( fares 2 m . 20, 1 m. 60, 1 m . 10 pf. ). The intermediate stations are Nitterden ; Cranen burg, the last in Prussia ; Groesbeek, the seat of the Dutch custom - house . Nymegen, see p. 370. 368 Route 51 . DÜSSELDORF. From Arnhem At ( 25 M.) Goch a line ( on which no express trains run) diverges to Gennep, Bengen ( p. 373 ), Uden, Veghel, and Boxtel (p . 375). 32 M. Kevelaer is a great resort of pilgrims. 371/2 M. Geldern, once the capital of the Duchy of Guelders, has belonged to Prussia since 1713. Stations Nieukerk , Aldekerk , and ( 491/2) Kempen, the birthplace of Thomas a Kempis (d. 1471). Thence to 90112 M. Cologne, see R. 54. 100 M. 2. Railway of the Right Bank (viâ Emmerich and Düsseldorf ). RAILWAY in 41/2-6 hrs. ( fares 7 fl. 15, 5 fl. 58, 4 f . 20 c . ). German frontier at Elten . Stations Westervoort , Duiven, Zevenaar ( the last in Holland), Elten ( the first in Prussia ). 191/2 M. Emmerich (Hôtel Royal; Hof von Holland ; Hôtel Bahnhof ), on the Rhine, is a clean, Dutch-looking town. At the upper end rises the Gothic tower of the church of St. Aldegonde ( 1283); at the lower end is the Münster, a church in the transitional * style of the 11-12th cent. , with an interesting crypt. Next stations Empel and Wesel, a strongly - fortified town at the influx of the Lippe into the Rhine. Abranch -line diverges here to Bocholt and ( 24 M. ) Winterswyk (p . 353) . 57 M. Oberhausen (Holländischer Hof ; Rail. Restaurant) , on the Ruhr, is the junction for Ruhrort (p . 369) and for the Cologne Minden railway. This is one of the chief coal-districts in Prussia . 62 M. Duisburg is ' a thriving town of very ancient origin , with 47,600 inhabitants . 71 M. Calcum is the station for Kaiserswerth , a venerable town on the Rhine, 11/2 M. to the W. (p . 369). 76 M. Düsseldorf (* Breidenbacher Hof ;. Europäischer Hof; Römischer Kaiser ; Kölnischer Hof; Hôtel Thüngen , etc. ) , with • 115,200 inhab ., formerly the capital of the Duchy of Berg, possesses a famous School of Painting , founded by Elector Palatine Charles Theodore in 1767, and revived in 1822. (Fuller information in Bae deker's Rhine. ) Beyond Benrath rises a royan château , erected in 1768 by Elector Charles Theodore. Beyond stat. Langenfeld the train crosses the Wupper, and then the Dhün. Last stations Küpper steg and Mülheim . The slow trains stop at Deutz , but the express crosses the Rhine to 100 M. Cologne ( see Baedeker's Rhine) . 9 3. Steamboat Route. Steamboat daily in summer , in 13-15 hrs. ( pleasanter in the reverse direction) . German frontier at Emmerich . On our right, soon after leaving Arnhem , lies Huissen , a little below which the Yssel , one of the chief branches of the Rhine , diverges to the left to the Zuiderzee . 1. Huis Loo, or Candia , an old brick château , with three towers . 1. Pannerden , a village with a church with pointed spire , a wind mill>, and neat houses . to Cologne. RUHRORT. 51. Route . 369 Near Millingen the most important of the numerous branches of the Rhine diverges to the W. , and from this point down to its junction with the Maas takes the name of Waal. 1. Lobith is the last Dutch village , where the luggage of travellers descending the river is examined . On the opposite bank , at some dis tance from the river , is the Schenkenschanz , situated on another branch of the Rhine. It was formerly a strong fortress , and lay at the bifur cation of the Waal and Lower Rhine, whereas the river, having changed its course , now divides at Millingen . The stunted church - tower of the village of Schenkenschanz rises from amid the ruins . The Rhine was crossed near this point on 12th June, 1672, by Louis XIV, with Prince Condé, who was wounded here , and a large army, with a view to con quer llolland . The boldness of this ' Passage of the Rhine is greatly extolled by Boileau in his elaborate lines written on the occasion , but owing to an unusual drought the river was nearly dried up , and the undertaking was probably attended with no serious difficulty . The first indication of our approach to the mountainous and pictur esque scenery of the Rhine is the range of wooded heights on the right , which form the watershed between the Rhine and Meuse , and on which Cleve ( p . 367) is pleasantly situated , about 3 M. from the river. The first eminence on the bank of the river itself is the Eltener Berg with its ancient abbey (now suppressed), which rises on the left as Emmerich is approached. Weare, however, still nearly 100 M.from the Seven Moun tains', which rise at the beginning of the most picturesque part of the river. 1. Emmerich, see p. 368 . r. Grieth . 1. Rees , once strongly fortified . r. Xanten , 2 M. from the Rhine, a town of very ancient origin, possesses a handsome Gothic church , with conspicuous spires . 1. Wesel, an important Prussian fortress (p.368) . On the same bank, higher up , rises the old castle of Haus Wohnung. r. Orsoy. 1. Ruhrort, a town of 9200 inhab. at the mouth of the Ruhr , which here forms an extensive harbour , is a busy coal- trading and iron -man ufacturing place. r . llomberg, whence Aix - la -Chapelle may be reached in 3-4 hrs . 1. Duisburg, a busy town , situated 11/2 M. from the river (p. 368 ). r. Uerdingen , a manufacturing place. 1. Kaiserswerth (' emperor's island') was formerly an island and dea rived its name from the Emp . Frederick I. The brick walls and archways of the ancient castle of the Franks, which was considerably enlargeil by Frederick , are still extant. In 1062 the Archbishop of Cologne carried off the young German king Henry IV . from this castle . The parish - church, dating from the 13th cent ., contains the relics of St. Suitbertus, an Irish man , who first preached the Gospel in this district. 1. Düsseldorf ( p . 368) , where the river is crossed by a railway-bridge and a bridge- of-boats. Farther on , the tower of the handsome church of St. Quirinus at Neuss, erected in 1209 , comes into view on the right . r. Grimlinghausen . r. Worringen, a small town , near which , on 4th June, 1288 , John Duke of Brabant and Adolph Count of Berg defeated and took prisoner the Archbishop Siegfried of Cologne, a victory which added the fertile Duchy of Limburg to the dominions of Brabant. 1. Mülheim , a manufacturing place, at the lower end of which rises Stammheim , a châtean of CountFürstenberg, with a Gothic chapel. The towers of Cologne and its dense mass of houses now become visible. Cologne, see Baedeker's Rhine. 7 BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 24 370 52. From Arnhem to Nymegen, ' s Hertogenbosch , and Tilburg 511/2 M. RAILWAY ( Nederland. Staatsspoorweg ) in 13/4-23/4 hrs. ( fares 4 11. 20 , 311. 25 c . , 21.) Between Arnhem and Nymegen a steamer plies twice daily in 21/2 hrs. Arnhem , see p . 357. The railway passes Oosterbeek (p. 357) , crosses the Rhine, and runs to the S. through the Betuwe ( p. 357). 51/2 M. Elst ; 71/2 M. Ressen -Bemmel, the junction for the lines mentioned at p. 373. After passing Lent (p. 372) , opposite Nymegen, the train crosses the river by an iron bridge of three arches. 101/2 M. Nymegen. - Hotels. " Hôtel PLACE ROYALE , Ridderstraat, near the Valkhof ; * HÔTEL ARIENS, Priemstraat, near the flying bridge across the Waal, a commercial house with moderate charges; HÔTEL Boggia , Burgstraat. HOF VAN BRABANT, Korenmarkt; DE GOUDEN LEEUW , Lange lezelstraat , unpretending. Omnibus from the station to the town, 20 c . – The * HÔTEL BERG EN DAL (p . 372) , 31/2 M. to the E. of Nymegen (omnibus at the station, 30 c.) , is much frequented in summer, R., L., A. , & B. from 21/2 fl . , déj . 60 c. , pens, from 31/2 11 .; good table-d'líôte ( 4 p.m., 2 fl . ) and restaurant. Cafés . Hamerslag, in the market-place ; Suisse, Burgstraat, with a winter-garden ; Duppen , Valkhof; Grand Café Neuf, Platenmakerstraat . The Societeit Burgerlust ( p . 371) is generally open to strangers who make polite application . Baths. In the Waal, near the flying bridge at Lent (p . 372 ). Warm Baths near the Kronenburg Park , Tramway to Beek ( p . 372 ) and to Neerbosch . Steamboats to Arnhem , Tiel , and Rotterdam , once or twice daily. Nymegen , almost invariably pronounced Nimwegen, with 31,800 inhab . ( 3/4 Rom . Cath . ), the Castellum Noviomagum of Caesar, oc cupies a site on an amphitheatre of seven hills, rising from the left bank of the Waal. In the Carlovingian epoch it was frequently the residence of the emperors ; subsequently it became a free im perial town and a member of the Hanseatic League, and in 1579 it joined the Union of Utrecht ( p. 362) . It was captured by the Spaniards in 1585, and was retaken by Maurice of Orange in 1591 . The French under Turenne occupied the town in 1672, but eva cuated it at the peace of Nymegen . In 1877-84 the old fortitications encircling the town were con verted into a broad promenade. To the W. , near the station , lies the Kronenburg Park , prettily laid out with rockeries and a water fall , and containing one of the sixteen towers that strengthened the old town - walls. Almost in the centre of the town rises the Groote Kerk or Church of St. Stephen , a Gothic edifice, begun in 1272 and substant ially completed in the 14th and 15th cent. , though there are a few modern additions. The barrel vaulting of the nave , supported by 35 slender pillars, replaces a former and more strictly Gothic pointed vaulting. The choir contains the Monument of Catherine of Bourbon ( d . 1469), wife of Adolphus, Duke of Guelders, with a 'brass' bearing the figure of the duchess. Below are representations of the Apostles and sixteen coats - of - arms of the House of Bourbon. 7 NYMEGEN . 52. Route. 371 The organ is a tine instrument ( public performance every Tuesday in summer, 2-3 p.m.). The tower, which had suffered seriously from fire and bombardment, was renewed in 1593 in the Renais sance style of the day ; the top commands a fine view (key kept by the castellan ). On the old GrammarSchool( 1544 ; now a conservatoire of music ), near the churchyard, are some mutilated sculptures. Through the Kerkboog we descend hence to the E. to the Groote Markt, with the old Weigh House and Flesher's Hall , conjectured to have been built in 1612 by H. de Keyser and renewed in 1885 . The building, which is detaehed on three sides, is now the tele graph oftice. Farther on , in the Korte Burgstraat, stands the

• STADHUIS, erected in the Renaissance style in 1554, and judi

ciously restored , with statues of German monarchs on the façade. The VESTIBULE contains raised seats adorned with carving ( by Guert van Dulcken), on which the magistrates formerly sat in criminal cases . The Vorflure of the Dutch town-halls were formerly used as the seat of municipal tribunals ( Vierschaare'). — The INTERIOR possesses a few pic tures, among which are the old château of Valkhof ( see below ) by Jan von Goyen , and portraits of the ambassadors who here signed in 1678 the Peace of Nymegen between Louis XIV. , the States General , and Spain . The ‘ Riddle of Nymegen ' is a picture representing a complicated relationship of the year 1609. Several ofthe rooms are hung with old tapestry. The town- hall also contains an interesting Museum (open daily ; fee ). In the first room are mediaval and modern objects, among which are the silver -mounted drinking-horn of the Skippers' Guild ; a *Nautilus Cup ( No. 131) of 1580 in silver repoussé work, 1 ft. high ; missals of the Bakers' Guild ; a wooden tun , used for the public punishment of adulterers ; the sword with which Counts Egmont and Hoorn are alleged to have been executed ( p . 105 ) ; coins of Nymegen ; and ancient MSS. and documents. The second room contains prehistoric, Germanic, and Roman antiquities, all discovered in the vicinity of Nymegen, and most of them during the recent levelling of the fortifications. Among them are numerous coins and a sarcophagus constructed of 52 tiles bearing the stamp of the tenth legion. The Burgstraat continues in an easterly direction , and then turns slightly towards the left , passing a Monument ( with a statue of Victory after Rauch ) erected to commemorate the construction of the railway from Nymogen to Cleve ( 1865) , and the Societeit Bur gerlust (p . 370 ). It ends at the shady pleasure - grounds of the VALKHOF, laid out on an eminence above the Waal. llere are the scanty ruins of a large Romanesque palace of the Carlovingian em perors, to which Eginhard, the biographer of Charlemagne, assigns an equal rank with the celebrated palace at Ingelheim . It was destroyed by the French in 1796. The memory of the Great Em peror enduresto this day among the people ; the curfew which sounds between 8.30 and 9 p.m. is known as “ Keizer Karel's Klock’ , and the finest square in the new quarter of the town is named ' Keizer Karel's Plein '. Of the palace -church only a fragment of the choir is extant. An interesting and well-preserved relic is the sixteen-sided Gothic Baptistery, consecrated by Pope Leo III . in 799, but re erected in the 12th century ( key kept by the custodian of the Valkhof grounds ). The legend of the Knight of the Swan is related of Nymegen as well as of Cleve ( comp. p. 367) . 24 * 372 Route 52. NYMEGEN. At the E. end of the old town, near the Valkhof, rises the *Belvedere, a lofty building resembling a tower (now a café, 10 c. charged for the ascent). The present building was erected by the town in 1646 , on the foundations of one of the towers of the fortifications . The platform commands an extensive and pleasing prospect, embracing Cleve , Arnhem , the heights of Elten , the fertile fields and rich pastures of the Betuwe, and the Waal, Rhine, Maas, and Yssel . To the S. E. of the Belvedere lies the Hünnerpark . The best view of Nymegen is obtained from Lent, a village on the right bank the Waal, connected with the town by means of a flying bridge. A bastion, known as the Knodsenburg, was built here in 1590 by Prince Maurice of Orange . The well-wooded and undulating environs of Nymegen rival in beauty the neighbouring Arnhem and Cleve . At the finest point, about 31/2 M. from the town, is situated the *Hotel Berg en Dal (p . 370 ), commanding one of the loveliest prospects on the lower Rhine. To reach the hotel we may follow either the direct road , or the way to the S. through the Meerwyk ( 2 hrs. ), or the way tơ the N. by Ubbergen and Beek (11/2 hr. ). The second of these routes may be recommended for going ; and the last ( tramway) for returning. The walk to the Duivelsberg on the Wyler Meer (20 min. ) is also picturesque . BeyondNymegen the railway to S’Hertogenbosch passes (161/2 M. ) Wychen, with an old château, now the property of Baron Osy of Antwerp, and crosses the Maas. 21 M. Ravenstein ; 231/2 M. Ber chem ; 26 M. Oss, the chief place for the manufacture of artificial butter, which is mostly exported to England ; 29 M. Nuland -Geffen ; 34 M. Rosmalen . 373/4 M. ' SHertogenbosch, see p. 360. The last stations are Vught ( p. 360) , Helvoirt, and Udenhout. 511/2 M. Tilburg, see p. 375 . > 53. From Maastricht to Nymegen and Dordrecht. 1441/2 M. Railway (Holland. Staatsspoorweg ) to Nymegen, 791/2 M., in 23/ 4-4 hrs. (fares 6 11. 25, 5 f . 25, 3 n . 25 c .) ; from Nymegen to Dordrecht, 65 M., in 21/2 hrs. ( fares 3 fl. 85 , 3 fl . 20, 1 1. 95 c . ) . Maastricht, see p. 219. The railway follows the general course of the Maas, but at some distance from thestream . 33/4 M. Bunde; 8 M. Beek- Elsloo ; 13 M. Sittard ( Hôtel Hähnen ), a small manufacturing town ( 5100 inhab .) with a handsome 13th cent. parish church . From ( 163/4 M. ) Susteren a diligence plies daily to the little town of (4 M.) Maaseyck (p . 176) , on the other side of the Maas . – 20 M. Echt; 231/2 M. Maasbracht- Linne. 28 M. Roermond (Lion d'Or ; Munster Hotel ; Dahmen- Wakkers ), a small town with 10,000 inhab ., at the confluence of the Roer and the Meuse, possessing considerable cloth - factories . The Roman esque Minster, formerly the church of a Cistercian nunnery , con secrated in 1224, has recently been restored and elaborately de VENLO . 53. Route. 373 corated . Behind is one of the old towers of the fortifications. St. Christopher’s is adorned with paintings. A picturesque avenue leads to the S. to the ( 1 M.) Redempdorist Chapel. Roermond is the junction for the München -Gladbach and Antwerp railway ( R. 18) . 31 M. Swalmen ; 343/4 M. Reuver ; 37 M. Belfeld ; 39 M. T'egelen. 41 M. Venlo (Van Wessem ; Hotel Huengens ; Hoogste Kuar), a town with 9000 inhab ., lies on the right bank of the Maas, and is connected by a bridge with the opposite village of Blerick . It was formerly strongly fortified and sustained numerous sieges , but the works were razed in 1868. The Stadhuis in the market- place, a highly picturesque erection of 1595, contains a few interesting paintings by the artist-antiqnary Hubert Goltzius, who spent his youth in the town. In the church is some carving by an artist of the 17th cent., signing himself 'G. S' . Venlo is the junction of railways to München - Gladbach (p. 177) , to Wesel (Paris and Iam burg line ) , and to Boxtel - Rotterdam ( R. 54) . Tramway via Tegelen ( see above) to Steyl . Steamboat on the Mars from Venlo to Rotterdam , 4 times a week ; See the Officieele Reisgids. The train crosses the Maas . At Blerick ( p . 374 ) the line to Rotterdam diverges to the left. 47 M. Grubbenvorst-Klooster ; 48 M.Grubbenvorst- Lottum ; 51 M. Meerlo -Tienray ; 55 M. Venray ; 591/2 M. Vierlingsbeek ; 64 M. Boxmeer, with an old castle and town – hall ; 671/2 M. Beugen , the junction for Boxtel and Wesel ( p. 368); 703/4 M. ( uyk. Near ( 74 M.) Mook , on the heath of the same name, the Princes Louis and Henry of Orange, brothers of William the Silent, were defeated and slain by the Spaniards, on March 15th , 1574. 791/2 M. Nymegen, see p . 370. From Nymegen we follow the Arnhem line to Ressen - Bemmel and (5 M.) Elst ( p. 370 ), where we join the line coming from ( 51/2 M.) Arnhem viâ Oosterbeek. The train then traverses the Betuwe (p . 357) towards the W. Stations Valburg, Zetten -Andelst, Hemmen - Dode waard, ( 15 M.) Kesteren . Our line then runs to the W. past Echteld. From KESTEREN TO AMERSFOORT, 191/2 M., railway in 3/4 hr. This line diverges to the right from that to Dordrecht and crosses the Rhine at Rhenen , which possesses a Gothic church and a graceful tower built in 1492-1531. 7 M. Veenendaal, the junction of the Arnhem - Utrechtline (p . 357 ). Beyond Woudenberg- Scherpenzeel we reach (191/2 M.) Amersfoort ( p. 317) . 25 M. Tiel (Meyer ; Gorbelyn) , a town with 9000 inhab. , the right bank of the Waal , received its municipal liberties from Otho I. in 972, when it was already a commercial place of some importance. In 1582 it was unsuccessfully besieged by the Span iards, but it was taken by Turenne in 1672. 30 M. Wadenoyen, prettily situated ; 341/2 M. Geldermalsen, on the Linge , the junction of the Boxtel and Utrecht line ( p . 361 ) . Then , Beesd , Leerdam , and Arkel . 50/2 M. Gorinchem or Gorcum ( Hôtel des Pays - Bas), a busy town with 9700 inhab ., was one of the first places which the ‘ Water on 2 > 374 Route 54 . CREFELD, Gueux’, or those insurgents who aided their compatriots by sea , took from the Spaniards in 1572. It is situated at the point where the Linge flows into the Merwede, the name given for a short di stance to the river formed by the union of the Waal and the Maas (2 M. to the W. ) , which afterwards resumes the name of Maas. On the side of the town next the sea stand some elegant fortified gate ways of the 17th century. A visit to Gorinchem and to Woudrichem or Worcum (steamboat every 2 hrs .) is full of interest for those who are interested in early Dutch brick buildings with mosaic decorations; for landscape painters ; and also for salmon -fishers. -- A little above Woudrichem is the Castle of Loerenstein . In 1619 Hogerbeets and Hugo Grotius ( De Groot ) , the pensionaries or chief senators of Leyden and Rotterdam , were condemned as Arminians (p . 378) to be imprisoned for life in this castle . The latter, however, with the aid of his wife, effected his escape in a bookchest the following year. About 4 M. below Gorinchem , on the left bank , begins the Biesbosch ( literally "reed -forest"), a vast district, consisting of upwards of 100 islands, more than 40 square miles in area , formed by a destructive inundation in 1421 . No fewer than 72 market towns and villages were destroyed by the floods and upwards of 100,000 persons perished. The Biesbosch is intersected by the broad artificial channel of the Nieuwe Merwede. The next station is Hardinxveld - Giessendam . At Sliedrecht the railway crosses the Merwede. 65 M. Dordrecht, see p. 376 . 54. From Cologne to Rotterdam viâ Venlo . 1581/2 M. RAILWAY ( Rhenish ) to Venlo (601/2 M.) in 3-4 hrs. ( fares 6 marks 60, 4 m. 90, 3 m. 25 pf.); Dutch Railway thence to Rotterdam (98 M. ) in 5-6 hrs. (fares 8 1. 10, 6 11. 45, 4 1. 5 c . ) . Through -tickets 20 marks 50, 16 m . , 10 m. 25 pf. Stations at Rotterdam , see p . 229. Cologne, see Baedeker’s Rhine. The train traverses the flat left bank of the Rhine. Stations Nippes , Longerich, Worringen (p . 369) , Dormagen , Norf, and ( 221/2 M. ) Neuss, the junction of the Glad bach and Düsseldorf line , one of the most ancient towns in Ger many ( comp. p. 369 ) . 28 M. Osterath. From (321/2 M. ) Oppum a branch - line diverges to Essen and Dortmund . 33 M. Crefeld ( Wilder Mann ; Beltz) , a town with 102,000 in hab. , and the junction of several railways, possesses extensive silk and velvet manufactories (see Baedeker's Rhine). At (40 M.) Kem pen ( p. 368 ) the line diverges from that to Cleve and Zevenaar ( R.51). Stations Grefrath, Lobberich , Kaldenkirchen (the last place in Prussia ). 601/2 M. Venlo ( p . 373), the seat of the Dutch custom - house authorities , and junction of the lines from Viersen ( Neuss and Düsseldorf ), Maastricht-Nymegen (R. 53) , and Cologne, and also of the line from Paris to Hamburg ( viâ Wesel ). The Rotterdam line crosses the Maas , diverges from the Nymegen line at Blerick ( p . 373 ), and traverses the morass of De Peel ( 25 M. long, 6 M. wide), which yields excellent peat. 68 M. Horst - Sevenum ; 741/2 M. Helenaveen ; 79 M. Deurne. 841/2 M. Helmond , a town with 7000 inhab. on the Zuid - Willems - Kanaal, which the railway crosses . 90 M. Nuenen - Tongelre. BREDA . 54. Route. 375 921/2 M. Eindhoven ( Hof van Holland) , a small manufacturing town, the junction of the Hasselt and Utrecht line (p . 360 ), which the present route now follows . Tramway to Geldrop. 99 M. Best . 105 M. Boxtel ( Rail. Restaurant) , situated at the influx of the Beerze into the Dommel, junction for the line from Goch , mentioned at p . 368. The Utrecht line continues towards the N. ( p. 360), while our line turns to the W., and farther on crosses the Nieuwe Ley, another tributary of the Dommel. 1101/2 M. Oisterwyk . 116 M. Tilburg (De Gouden Zwaan ; Hôtel Brox, R. , L. , & A. 11/4-112, B. '/2, D. 11/4, omn . 1/4 fl.; Hôtel- Restaur. de la Station ), a woollen -manufacturing town of 33,200 inhab ., with a new Gothic church . Tilburg is the junction of the Hertogenbosch and Nymegen line mentioned at p . 372. A branch - line also diverges here to ( 19 M. ) Turnhout (p. 135), and a steam - tramway to Walwyk and Capelle. 123 M. Gilze - Ryen. 1281/2 M. Breda. Hotels. *DE Kroon , DE ZWAAN, both in the Boschstraat, the principal street : OUDE Prins, near the cathedral and the market-place. Café-Restaurants. Hof van Holland, near the Protestant church ; Railway Restaurant. Breda, a fortified town with 17,200 inhab ., lies on the Merk and the Aa, by means of which rivers the whole surrounding country can be laid under water. The Protestant Church ( Hervormde Kerk ) near the market - place, a Gothic edifice dating from 1290 ( present choir consecrated in 1410 ), with a handsome tower recently restored , contains an imposing Renaissance *Monument to Count Engel bert II . of Nassau, the general and favourite of Emp. Charles V. , and his wife Maria of Baden , by Thomas Vincenz of Bologna, who, though a pupil of Raphael, followed Michael Angelo's style . The figures, sculptured in Italian alabaster, repose on a sarcophagus, while four half- kneeling statues , representing Cæsar, Regulus, Hannibal, and Philip of Macedon, bear on their shoulders a slab on which is placed the admirably - executed armour of the count. ( This monument was the model for that of Sir Francis Vere in Westminster Abbey .] Many of the other monuments are also in teresting, particularly those of Count Borgnival ( d . 1536 ) and Direk van Assendelſft ( d. 1553 ; the latter much defaced by the iconoclasts). The choir contains some good wood -carving, representing monks in comical attitudes, intended as a satire on the clergy ; a Renaissance font in copper ; and the fine brass of Willem van Gaellen ( Galen ; executed after 1539 ). -- The old castle , begun after 1536 under Hen drik and Reinier of Nassau (d . 1544) by Thomas of Bologna ( see above), was completed under William of Orange, King of England, by Jacob Romans in 1696. It has , however, been completely altered in converting it into a military school. No trace is now left of the former magnificence of this castle , in which William of Orange and Counts Egmont and Horn conducted the preliminaries for the Com promise of the Dutch Nobles in 1566 ( comp. p . 92) . The park in front of the castle, formerly called Hof van Valkenberg, also 376 Route 54. DORDRECHT. From Venlo dates from the 15th century . From Breda to Roosendaal and Flushing, see R. 35. From Breda a STEAM TRAMWAY runs in 3/4 hr. to Oosterhout, where it branches on the one side to ( 50 min. ) Dongen, a small town with 4300 inhab ., and on the other to (1/2 hr. ) Geertruidenberg, a fortified place in the Biesbosch (p . 374 ) , with 1900 inhab ., who occupy themselves in fishing , trade, and manufacturing. Near (1351/2 M. ) Langeweg the line crosses the Dintel , passes (138 M. ) Lage- Zwaluwe, the junction for theline to Antwerp ( p.172 ), and reaches the Bridge over the Hollandsch Diep , an arm of the sea which was formed in 1421 ( comp. p . 374). This vast structure was begun in May 1868, and completed in November 1871 . The breadth of the bay at this point is 15/8 M. , but by means of stone piers projecting into the water has been reduced ' to 7/8 M. This channel is crossed by fourteen iron arches with a span of 110 yds. each, and 15 ft . above the level of the highest tide, while on the S. side are two swing - bridges for the passage of large vegsels . Upwards of 1170 tons of iron and steel were used in the structure . The foundations of the thirteen stone buttresses which support the bridge, each 50 ft. long and 10 ft. wide, were laid on the pneumatic system , the foundation of the three next the S. bank is 50-60 ft . below low -water mark. The cogt of the bridge amounted to 5,709,000 Norins (about 475,0001.), being very much less than had been anticipated. Fine view over the expanse of water. At the N. end of the bridge lies ( 1391/2 M.) Willemsdorp. 148 M. Dordrecht. Hotels. HÔTEL BELLEVUE, near the steamboa pier, R., L. , & A. 13/4-31/2, B. 3/4, déj . 1 , D. 2 1. ; AUX ARMES DE HOL LANDE or PENNOCK , just behind , in the Wynstraat; PONSEN , with re staurant, at the station, R., L., A., & B. 2-21/2, déj. 1 fl. 40 c ., D. 134 11 . Tramway from the station through the town to the Merwe- Kade, con veying luggage not over 66 lbs, in weight. Dordrecht, usually called Dort by the Dutch, with 32,400 in hab . , the oldest, and in the middle ages the most powerful and wealthy commercial city in Holland , was also separated from the mainland by the calamitous inundation of 1421 ( p. 374) . Its si tuation still renders it an important mercantile place . The harbour formed by the river , an arm of the Maas , here called Merwede ( comp. p. 374) , admits sea - going vessels of heavy tonnage to the very walls of the town . The timber - trade is also very extensive. The huge rafts floated down the Rhine from the forests of Germany are generally broken up here, and the wood is then sawn by the numerous windmills in the neighbourhood. Dordrecht possesses numerous quaint mediæval houses (Wynstraat, Voorstraat, etc. ) , full of interest for the student of architecture. On leaving the station we follow the tramway, and, crossing a canal-bridge, reach the town in 5 min .; the principal street leads in 5 min . more to the small Vischbrug. Beyond this we may either turn to the left (Groenmarkt) towards the town - hall and the Groote Kerk, or to the right ( Wyn - Straat) to the museum (p . 377). The Stadhuis, erected in 1850 on the site of an olderbuilding, contains several pictures : Last Supper, by Blocklandt ( d . 1583 ) ; Burning of the new church , with good portraits, painted in 1568 by Doudyn ; Samson and Delilah , by Honthorst ( d. 1662) ; the Synod to Rotterdam . DORDRECHT. 54. Route. 377 of Dordrecht, by P. Weyts ; Siege of Dordrecht by John, Duke of Brabant, in 1418, and Siege of Dordrecht by the French in 1813, by Schouman and Schotel . The Gothic Groote Kerk of the 14th cent., with choir of the 15th , with a lofty and conspicuous tower , rests in the interior on 56 pillars , and contains a handsome marble pulpit executed in 1756. The fine old carved choir- stalls , executed by Jan Terween Aertsz in the Renaissance style in 1538-40, are the most important work of the kind in Holland, but are unfortunately falling to decay. Among the interesting representations on the backs of the stalls is one ( left side) of Charles V. entering Dordrecht in procession . A screen of brass ( 18th cent.) separates the choir from the nave . A simple monument has been erected here to Schotel the Elder (d . 1838 ), a painter of sea - pieces. Marble pulpit of 1756. Several valuable ecclesiastical vessels are preserved in the sacristy. The sacristan lives on the N. side of the church . The Wynstraat, diverging to the right at the Vischbrug, leads past a small open space , which is embellished by a monument erected in 1862 to the eminent painter Ary Scheffer ( 1795-1858) , a native of Dordrecht. The bronze statue was designed by Mezzera, who declined to accept any remuneration for this tribute to the memory of his friend. To the right, farther on, stands the MUSEUM ( daily 9-4 ; adm . 10 c .; catalogue 25 c . ) , a gallery of pictures, chiefly by modern Dordrecht and other artists . Among Dutch artists are Ten Kate ( No. 49), Koekkoek (17 ), Schelf hout ( 20 ), Schotel (48) , Springer ( 78) , and Versteeg (69) , L , de Koningh, Lebret, Igraels (113), Vogel , Rochussen , etc. Foreign artists are represented by A. Achenbach ( 1, 2), Calame (10) , Gudin (45) , Alma Tadema (102 ) , etc. Among the older masters may be mentioned F. Bol ( 128 ), A, Cuyp, A. de Gelder, Hoogstraaten , and Nic. Maes ( 11 ) . The whole of one of the prin cipal walls of the saloon is devoted to Ary Scheti'er ( see above ), being oc cupied by pictures ( chiefly copies ), drawings, and several works in plaster of Paris (recumbent figure of his mother ). The only original paintings by Scheller are : I. Christ on the Mount of Olives ; VII. Portrait of S. W. Reynolds, the engraver ; V. Reduced repetition of the Christus Consolator (p. 305), and IV . the artist's last untinished work ( Matt . V. 4) . - We algo notice a bust of the Grand Pensionary Jan de Witt, by A. Quellin ( 1665) . An adjoining room is devoted to Dordrecht antiquities, includ ing a carved wooden chimney -piece border, with the Contest of the Giants, by J. Terween (see above) . The Wynstraat finally leads to the bank of the Maas, opposite the beginning of the arm known as “ the Noord '. On the Merwe Kade, near the Hôtel Bellevue and almost entirely built up, is a brick gateway of 1618, with reliefs and a dome, by H. de Keyser. A picturesque glimpse of the canal is obtained from the little bridge behind the hotel. Dordrecht occupies an important page in the history of Holland, and especially in that of the Protestant faith. In 1572 the first assembly of the independent states of Holland was held here, and resulted in the foundation of the Republic of the United Dutch Provinces. A century later William III . , Prince of Orange , was appointed stadtholder , com mander- in -chief, and admiral of Holland for life by the States at Dord recht. In 1618 and 1619 the Dutch Protestant theologians assembled at 378 Route 54 . DORDRECHT. a great SYNOD at Dordrecht, with a view to effect a compromise between the adherents of the austere tenets of Calvin (“ Gomarists' ) and those of the milder doctrines of Zwingli (“ Arminians'). In 1610 the latter had addressed a 'Remonstrance' (whence their name ' Remonstrants ', which is still used by the States General ) , in defence of their doctrines. Dif ferences of opinion existed between the two sects regarding the doctrine of divine grace. The Gomarists held that the greater part of the human race was excluded from grace , which the Arminians denied . Although these differences were now to be discussed , the Calvinists, who formed the great majority of the assembly, refused to give the Remonstrants a hearing, and unanimously condemned them . Deputies from England and Scotland, Germany and Switzerland , had been invited by the Calvinists to assist at the meeting , which lasted nearly seven months, and is said to have cost the States a million florins. The resolutions of the synod were long regarded as the law of the Dutch Reformed Church . At the lower end of the town the Maas is crossed by a new iron bridge of four arches resting on six piers , and provided with two swing -bridges for the passage of large vessels. 150 M. Zwyndrecht ; 1531/2 M. Barendrecht; 1561/2 M. Ysselmonde, opposite the influx of the Dutch Yssel into the Maas , with a turreted château : The train then crosses the new bridge over the Maas ( p . 255) . A fine view of the river and town is now obtained . 1581/2 M. Rotterdam , see p . 246. ។ van List of the Flemish , Dutch, and Belgian Artists mentioned in the Hand book , with biographical notices. Abbreviations: A. = architect ; P. = painter ; S. sculptor ; c . , ca. = circa, about; b . = born ; d . = died. The Roman numerals refer to the Ilistorical Sketch of Netherlandish Art in the Introduction. The name of a town immediately following the name of an artist is that of his birthplace ; those at the end of the no tice are the scenes of his professional activity. In the spelling of proper names the Dutch ij is represented by y . Achtschelling , Lucas , P. , Brussels ; | Bakhuizen ( Bakhuyzen ), Jul. ran de 1570-1631. Sande-, P. , at the Hagne ; b. 1835 . Aelst, Guillam (Willem ) van, Dutch Bakhuysen , Ludolf, Duteh P. , Emden ; P. of Delft ; 1620-79 . Delft, Am- pupil of A. van Everdingen and sterdam , France, Italy . lxii . H. Dubbels ; 1631 - 1708. Amster Aertsen , Pieter, surnamed de lange dam . Pier , Nether .P. of Amsterdam ; pu- Balen, Hendrik van, the Elder , Flem . pil of Allart Claasz at Amsterdam ; P., Antwerp ; pupil of Ad. 1508-75 . Amsterdam , Antwerp. Noort ( ?) ; 1560 ( ? ) - 1632. Antwerp. Alma- Tadema, Lourens, P., Dronryp ; Balten , Peeter, Flem . P. , Antwerp ; pupil of Leys; b . 1836. London. d . about 1600. Alsloot , Denis van, Landscape P .; Barentsz, Dirck , Dutch P. , Amster about 1550-1625 . dam ; 1534-92. Anraadt, Pieter van, Dutch P., Deven- Bassen , Barthol. van , Dutch P., ter ; d . 1682 ; in Amsterdam 1672-75. Delft ; d . 1652. The Hague and Ansiaur , Jean Joseph Eléonore An- Delft . toine , Belg. P., Liège; pupil of Bauer, Nicolaas, P. , Harlingen ; 1767 Vincent; 1764-1840 . 1820. Anthoniszon, see Teunissen . Baurscheit , Jean Pierre van , the Antum , dert, Dutch P. of sea - pieces ; Younger, S. and A. , Antwerp; pu about 1600. pil of his father; 1699-1768. Ant Apol, Louis, P., the Hague ; pupil of werp. Hoppenbrouwers and Stortenbe- Beeckman , Andries, P. , Deventer ; 17th ker ; b . 1850 . century . Arthois, Jaques d ', P. , Brussels ; pu- Beelt, Cornelis, P. , Haarlem ; about pil of Jan Mertens ; 1613-1665 ( ? ) . 1660 . Artz , David Adolphe Const., Dutch Beers , Jan van , Flem. P. , Lierre ; b. P., the Hague ; pupil of Israëls ; 1852. b . 1837. Beerstraaten, Jan , Dutch P. , pupil Asselym , Jan , surn . Krabbetje, Dutch of his brother Alexander B. ( ? ) ; P., Diepen ; pupil of Esaias van de worked about 1622-26 . Velde ; 1610-52. Amsterdam , Rome. Beerstraten , Anthonie, Dutch P., Am lxi . sterdam (middle of the 17th cent . ) . Avont, Pieter van den , Belg . P. , Ma- Bega , Cornelis, Dutch P., Haarlem ; lines, 1600-52. Antwerp. pupil of A. van Ostade; 1620-64. Haarlem . lix . Backer, Adrian , P., Amsterdam ; Berchem or Berghem , Claes Pietersz , 1635-84. Amsterdam . Dutch P., Haarlem ; 1620-83. Italy , Backer , Jacob A. , Dutch P. , Har- Haarlem , Amsterdam . lxi . lingen ; pupil of Lambert Jacobsz Berck -Heyde, Gerrit, Dutch P. , Haar at Leeuwarden and of Rembrandt at lem ; supposed to have been a pu Amsterdam ; 1608-51 . Ainsterdam . pil of his elder brother Job ; 1638 Backer, Jacques de, P., Antwerp ; 1635 98 . Haarlem . (36 )-84. - lvii . Berck - Heyde, Job, P. , Haarlem ; pupil Backereel, Gilles, P. , Antwerp ; b. of Jacob de Wet ; 1630-93 . 1572 ( ?). Antwerp . Béthune d'Idewalle , Jean , living P. Baeckelmans, living A. , Antwerp. on glass at Ghent. Baen , Jan de, Dutch P. , Haarlem ; Beyaert, H., living Belg. A. pupil of his cousin Piemans and of Beyeren , Abraham Ilendriksz van, Jacob Backer ; 1633-1702. Dutch P. , the Hague ; 1621-74 (? ) . 9 380 LIST OF ARTISTS. van, Dut Bièfve , Edouard de , P., Brussels ; | Both , Jan, Dutch P. , Utrecht; pupil pupil of Paelinck ;1808-82.Brussels, of Abr. Bloemaert; 1610-52. Rome, Paris. Utrecht. lxii. Bilders , Johannes Warnardus, P. , Bource, llenri Jacques,Genre P., Ant Utrecht; b. 1811. werp ; pupil of Wappers & Dyck Biset , Karel Emanuel, P., Malines ; mans, and of Ary Scheffer in Pa studied at Paris ; 1633-85. Antwerp, ris ; b. 1826. Antwerp. Breda . Bouré, Antoine Félix , living S. , Bisschop , Christoffel, Dutch P. , Leeu- Brussels. warden ; pupil of W. H. Schmidt Bouts, Dierick ( Dirk ), formerly erro and H. van Hove; b . 1828. neously called Stuerbout, P. , Haar Blanchaert, living S. at Ghent; pu- lem ; 1400 (?) - 75. Louvain . xlii . of Béthune. Braekeleer, Ferdinand de , P. , Ant Bleker , Dirck , Dutch P., Haarlem ; werp ; pupil of J. van Brée; 1792 1622-72 (?) . Amsterdam , The Hague. 1883. Antwerp. Bles , David , Dutch P., the Hague; Brakenburgh, Richard, P. , Haarlem ; pupil of Corn . Kruseman1 ; b . 1821. pupil of Adr. van Ostade ( ?) ; 1650 Bles , Herri ( Hendrik ) de, or Herri 1702. Haarlem . met de Bles, surn . Civetta , Nether . Bray , Jan de , Historical P.; b. at P. of Bouvignes, near Namur; b. Haarlem , d . 1697. about 1480 , d . 'after 1521. Italy, Brée , Matthias Ignatius van, P. , S. , Netherlands. & A., pupil of J. van Regemorter Blocklandt, Anthonie van Montfort, at Antwerp and Vincent in Paris ; surn . van Bl., P., Montfort ; 1532- 1773-1839. * Antwerp. 83. Utrecht. Brée , Philippus Jacobus van , P. , Bloemaert, Abraham , Dutch P. , Gor- brother of Matthias; pup. of his cum ; 1564 - c . 1651 . Utrecht. li . brother and Girodet in Paris ; Bloemaert, Ilendrik , P., son and pupil 1786-1871. Pavia , Paris, Brussels. of the last ; 1601-72. Utrech and Breen , P.; beginn Italy. ing of the 17th cent.; the Hague, Blommers, Bernardus Johannes, P., the Amsterdam . Hague; pupil of Bisschop ; b . 1815. Breitner , George Hendrik, Dutch P. , Blondeel, Lancelot, Netherlandish P. Rotterdam ; pupil of W. Maris ; b . & A. , Bruges ; studied in Italy ; c . 1857. 1495-1561 . Bruges. Brekelenkam , Quiringh van , Dutch Blyhooft, Zacharias, Dutch P. , Mid- P.; flourished ca. 1653-69. delburg ; d. 1682. Bretón, Jules Adolphe, P. , Courrières ; Bockhorst, Johan van , surn . Langjan, pupil of De Vigne and Drolling ; P. , Münster in Westphalia ; pupil b. 1827. of Jordaens; 1610 (?)-68 . Antwerp . Breuck , Jacques de , A. & P. of the Boeyermans, Theodore, P. , Antwerp ; 16th cent. St. Omer. 1620-77. Antwerp. Breughel, see Brueghel. Bol, Ferdinand, Dutch P., Dordrecht; Bril, Paulus, Flemish P., Antwerp ; pupil of Rembrandt; 1616-80. Am- 1554-1626 . Rome. --- xliv. sterdam . ~ lvi . Bronchorst, Jan Gerritz van, Dutch P. Boone, Daniel, Dutch P. , Middelburg ; and artist in stained glass, Utrecht; 1031 ? -98. London, Amsterdam . b. 1603, d . ca. 1661. Amsterdam. Boonen , Arnold , Dutch P., Dord- Brouwer , Adrian , Flem . P., Oude recht; 1669-1729. Dordrecht, Am naerde; pup. of Frans Hals at sterdam , Germany. Haarlem and of Rubens at Ant Borselen , Jan Willem van , Dutch P. , werp ; c . 1605-38 . Antwerp. -- lix . Gouda ; b . 1825 . Brueghel, Jan , surn. Fluweelen or Bosboom , Jan, P., the Hague ; pupil Velvet Brueghel, Flem . P. , Brussels ; of Van Brée ; b. 1817. The Hague. son ofP. Brueghel the Elder ; 1568 Bosch , Hieron . van Aken , surnamed 1625. Italy, Antwerp . xliv. B. , Flem . P. , ' s Hertogenbosch ; Brueghel , Peeter, the Elder , surn . 1462-1516. Peasant Brueghel, Flem . P. , Breda ; Bossuet, François Antoine, P. , Ypres ; c.1520-69.Antwerp, Brussels. -- xliv . b . 1800 . Brussels. Brueghel, Pieter, the Younger, surn. Both, Andries, P. , Utrecht; brother Ilell- fire Brueghel, Flem. P. of of Jan B., pupil of his father, Brussels; son of P. B. the Elder ; Bloemaert , and ( at Rome) Pieter 1564-1638 . Antwerp. xliv . van Laar ; b . ca. 1609, d . ca. 1044. Bruyn , Bartholomaeus de , Ger. P. , LIST OF ARTISTS. 381 Cologne; b . ca. 1193, flourished at Brussels ; pupil of P. v . Klasselaere, Cologne between 1594 and 1560 . De Keyser, & Wappers; b . 1816. Burgh , R. van der , Dutch P. of still- | Coques or Cocx, Gonzales ( Gonsalve ) , life ; end of the 17th century. Flem . P., Antwerp ; pupil of the Buytenwey, Willem , P., Rotterdam ; portrait - painter Peeter Brueghel pupil of H. Maartensz ; b . before (son of “ Tell - fire Brueghel') and of 1600. Haarlem . David Ryckaert the Younger; 1614 84. Antwerp. Calloigne , Jan Robbert, S. , Bruges ; Coxie ( Cocrie, Corcien, or Coxcyen ), 1775-1830. Bruges , Paris , Rome, Michiel van , P. , Malines ; pupil of Ghent. his father Michiel and of Barend Camerarius, Adam , Dutch portrait- van Orley ; 1499-1592. Malines and painter ; 1644 - $ 5 . Amsterdam , Brussels . xliv . Naarden . Crabeth, Dirk , P. on glass ; flourished Camphuysen , Govert, Dutch P. , Gor- at Gouda, c . 1557-68. cum ; 1623( 24 )-72. Amsterdam . Crabeth, Wouter , P. on glass , brother Capronnier, J. B. , living P. (glass) , of Dirk C .; Gouda, after 1560. Brussels . Craesbeeck , Joos ( Josse ) van , Flem, Carlier, Jean Guillaume, P. , Liège ; P. , Neer - Linter. 1608 ( ?)-1654. Ant pupil of Berth . Flémalle ; c . 1638 werp & Brussels. to c . 1675. Liège, France. Crayer or Craeyer, Gaspar de, Flem, Cate, Hendrik Gerrit ten , Dutch P. , P. , Antwerp ; pupil of Raphael van Amsterdam ; pupil of Westenberg ; Coxie at Brussels , and the chief 1803-56 . Flem . P. of his time outside of Cauwer, Joseph de , P. , Beveren ; Rubens's school; 1581-1669. Brus 1778-1854. Ghent. sels & Ghent. xlix . Cels , Cornelis, P. , Lierre ; pupil of Cristus, Petrus, Flemish P. , Baerle ; A. Lens at Brussels ; 1778-1859. 1444-72 in Bruges. xli . Ceulen , van , see Janssens, Cornelis . Cuylenbury, Cornelis van, P. , Utrecht ; Champaigne, Philippe de, P., Brussels ; 1754-1823. The Hague. pupil of Fouquières & L'Allemand Cuyp, Albert, Dutch P., Dordrecht; at Paris ; 1602-74. Brussels, Paris. pupil of his father Jacob Gerritsa Charle -Albert, living P. & A., Brussels. C.; 1620-91 . Dordrecht. Ixi . Chauvin , August, P. , Aix -la - Chapelle ; Cuyp, Jacob Gerritsz, Dutch P., Dord b . 1818. Liège. recht; pupil of Abr. Bloemaert; Claeissens , Anthonie , the Elder, P. , 1594-1651 (52) . Dordrecht. liii . Antwerp ; pupil of Quinten Mas- Cuyper, Joannes Baptista de, S. , Ant sys ( ? ) ; c . 1498. werp ; 1807-52 . Claeissens, Anthonie, the Younger, P. , Cuyper , Joannes Leonardus de , s. , Bruges ; b . 1614. Antwerp ; son of the foregoing. Claesz, Pieter, van llaerlem , Dutch Cuypers, P.J.H., livingA.,Amsterdam , P. , Haarlem ; father of Claesz Czermak, Jaroslav , P., Prague; pupil Pieter Berchem ; d . 1661. of Gallait at Brussels and Robert. Clays, Paul Jean , living P. (sea- Fleury at Paris ; 1831-79. Paris. scenes ) , pupil of Gudin ; b . at Bruges in 1819 ; Brussels. David , Gerard , Dutch P. , Quwater ; Cleef, Jan van , P. , Venlo ; pupil of c . 1483 - 1523. Bruges and Ant Luigi Primo , and of Gaspar de werp . - xlii . Crayer ; 1646-1716. Chent. David , Jacques Louis, P. , Paris ; 1748 Cluysenaar, Alfred , living P.,Brussels. 1825. Paris , Brussels. Cocx , see Coques. Debay, Jean Baptiste Joseph , the El Codde, Pieter, Dutch P. , Amsterdam ; der, S. , Malines; 1779-1863 c. 1600-77. - lx . Decaisne, Ilenri, P., Brussels ; pupil Coeberger, see koeberger. of P. J. C. François, J. L. David, Colyn , Jacob de Nole (or van Kame- Girodet, and Gros at Paris ; 1799 ryck ) , S., d . 1631. Utrecht, Kam- 1852. Paris. Decker, Cornelis, Dutch P.; pupil of Coninck , Darid de , Flem . P. , Ant- Salomon van Ruysdael; entered werp; 1636-99(? ). Antwerp , Brussels. the Haarlem Guild in 1643 ; d. 1678. Coninxloo, Gillis van , Flem . P., Ant- Haalem . werp ; 1544 - 1608 ( ?) . Antwerp, Delcour, Jan , S., Hamoir ; b. in the Franckenthal, and Amsterdam . middle of the 17th cent., d. 1707. Coomans, Pierre Olivier Joseph , P., Liège. > pen , etc. 382 LIST OF ARTISTS. Delen , Dirk van , Dutch P., Heusden ; | Duquesnoy , Jérôme,7 S. , brother of pupil of Frans Hals ; 1605 to 1671 . François; 1612-54 . Arnemuyden , Haarlem , Delft, Ant- Durlet, François André, S. , A. , & P. , werp. Antwerp , pupil of Laenen and F. Delf', Jacob, P. , Delft ; son and pupil Berkmans; 1816-67. of Willem Jacobsz D., grandson of Dusart, Cornelis, the Younger , Haar Johannes D .; 1619-61. Delft. lem ; pupil of Adr. v. Ostade ; 1660 Deltt', Jacob Willemsz, P., Gouda ; d. 1704 . lix . 1601. Delft . Dyck , Antonius ( Anthonis, Anthony, Dell", Rochus, P. , Delft; son of Ja- or Antonio ) van , Flem . P. , Ant cob Willemsz D. Delft. werp; 1599-1641. Antwerp , Lon Delvaux, Eduard , P., Brussels ; pupil don , Genoa, Rome. – xlix . of Henri van Ássche ; 1806-62. Dyckmans, Joseph Laurens,P., Lierre ; Delvaux, Laurent, S. , Ghent ; pupil pupil of Vervoort . Thielemans, of Dieudonné Plumier at Brussels ; Wappers ; 1811-1888 . 1695-1778 . Dyk , Philip ( Philips ) van , Dutch Deventer, Willem Anthonie van, P. , The P. , Amsterdam ; pupil of Arnold Hague ; pupil of Jul. van de Sande- Boonen ; 1680-1753. Amsterdam , Bakhuyzen; b. 1824. The Hague, Middelburg, Cassel . Devigne-Quyo, Petrus, S. , Ghent; pu pil of J. R. Calloigne; 1812-77. Deyster, Lodewyk de, P., Bruges; pu Eeckhout, Gerbrand van den , Dutch P., pil of Jan Maes; 1656-1711. Bruges. Amsterdam ; 1621-74. Amsterdam. lvi . Diepenbeeck, Abraham van, Flem . P. , Bois-le- Duc ; pupil of Rubens ; c . Eeckhout , Jacob Joseph , Dutch P. & 1599-1675 . Antwerp. S., Antwerp ; 1793-1861. The Hague, xlix . Dillens, Adolph , P. , Ghent ; pupil of Malines, Brussels, Paris. his brother Hendrik D. , 1821-77. Eelkema, Eelke Jelles, P. , Leeuwaar Does, Simon van der , Dutch P. , Am den ; 1788-1839. sterdam (?) ;1653-1717. The Hague, Eggers, Bartholemeus, S. probably London, Brussels, Antwerp. from N. Germany ; 1660-90. The Dou or Dov , Gerard ( Gerrit ), Dutch Hague, Berlin. P., Leyden ; pupil of the engraver Ekels , Jan, the younger, Dutch P. , Bart. Dolendo, of the glass-painter Elias,Nicolaes, Dutch P.; 1590-1650. Amsterdam ; 1759-93 . Amsterdam . P. Couwenhorn, and ofRembrandt; Amsterdam. Teacher of Van der 1613-75 . Leyden . --- lvii . Helst. Doudyns , Willem , Dutch P. , The Elshaimer ( Elzheimer ) , Adam , P., Hague ; 1630-97 . The Hague. Droochsloot, Joost Cornelisz, P. , flour Frankfort on the Main ; 1578-1620 . Rome. ished at Utrecht; 1586 (?) -1666. Drost, Geraert, P.; c . 1638 to c . Engelbertz or Engelbrechtsen, Corne 1690 . lis, P., Leyden ; 1468-1533. Dubbels, Hendrick ,Dutch P. , Amster- Everdingen , Allart van , Dutch P. , Alkmaar ; pupil of Roel, Savery dam , 1620-76 (?). Amsterdam . Ducaju, Joseph Jacques, living P. & (Utrecht); 1621-75. Alkmaar, Haar lem , Amsterdam . i . S. , Antwerp. Duchatel ( Duchastel or Du Chatel), Everdingen , Caesar van , P. , Alkmaar, elder brother of Allart v . E .; 1606 François, Flem . P., Brussels ; pu pil of David Teniers the Younger ; Eyck, Hubertvan ,P., Maaseyck; head 79. Alkmaar, Haarlem . 1625-94. Brussels, Paris. of 'the early Flemish school; c. Duck , J. A. , Dutch P. , Utrecht ; 1600 1366-1426 . Ghent. -- xxxix . 60.' Utrecht and the Hague. Ix. Ducq, Jan le, Dutch animal-painter ; Eyck , Jan van, P., Maaseyck , brother 1636-95 . of Hubert van Eyck ; b. after 1380 , Dujardin, see Jardin. d . 1440. Ghent, The Hague, Lille , Bruges. --xl. Duquesnoy pupil , François, s. , Brussels ; of 'his father, anà a student Eycken, Jean- Baptiste van, P. , Brus of Poussin's and Titian's works at sels ; pupil of Navez ; 1817-53. Brus sels . Rome ; 1594-1644 (42 ? ). Brussels, Rome. Eyckens, see Ykens. Duquesnoy , Henry or Hieronymus, S., Brussels ; father of François & Fabritius, Bernard, Dutch P. , Delft ; Jérôme D. ca. 1620-69. lvii, LIST OF ARTISTS. 383 Fabritius, kurel, Dutch P. , Dellt ; Geel, Johannes Franciscus van , S. , 1624-54 . Delft. -- lvii . Malines ; pupil of Pieter de Valck ; Fayd'herbe, Lucas, S. & A., Malines ; 1756-1830. Malines, Antwerp. pupil of Max l’Abbé and Rubens ; Geeraerts , Martin Joseph, P. , Ant 1617-94 . Malines. werp ; pupil of Abr. Godyn ; 1707 Fictoor, see Victors. 91. Antwerp: Fictor, see Victor . Geertgen van Št . Jans, Dutch P. , end Flémalle ( Flemuel, Flémal, Flamael), of the 15th cent.; Haarlem . Bertholet, P., Liège; pupilof Ilendr. Geerts, karel Ilendrik, S., Antwerp ; Trippez & Gerard Douflet ; 1614-75 . pupil of Van Hool and Van der Florence, Paris, Brussels, Liège. Ven (Antwerp); 1807-55 . Antwerp, Flinck , Govert, Dutch P., Cleve ; pu- Louvain . pil of Lambert Jacobsz at Leeu - Geest, Wybrandt de, Dutch P., Leeu warden and of Rembrandt at Ams- warden ; 1590-1659 (?). Paris, Rome, terdam . 1615-10.Amsterdam , - lvii . Leeuwarden . Floris, see Vriendt. Geirnaert, Jozef, P. , Eecloo ; pupil Fourmois, Théodore, P. , Presles ; 1814- of Herreyns (Antwerp) and Pae 1871. linck (Ghent); 1790-1859. Fraikin , Charles Auguste , S. , Heren- Gelder , Aert de , Dutch P. , Dord thals ; b. 1819. Brussels. recht ; last pupil of Rembrandt; Franchoys, see François. 1615-1727 . Dordrecht. Franck , Jean , S. , Ghent; pupil of Geldorp , Gortzius, P. , Louvain ; 1553 his father Charles F. , and of Da- 1616. Antwerp, Cologne. xliv . vid d'Angers ( Paris) ; b . 1804. Ant- | Gempt, Bernhard te, Dutch P. , Wy werp , Paris, Louvain . chen ; pupil ofN.Pieneman ; 1826-79. Francken , Ambrosius, the Elder, P., Ghent, Josse ( Justus) van , P. , Ghent; Herenthals ; brother of Frans F. pupil of llubert van Eyck (?) ; b. the Elder and J. Francken the El- ca. 1410 , d . after 1471 . pupil of Marten de Vos (or Gherardo della Notte, see Honthorst. Fr. Floris ?) ; 1545 ( ?) - 1618. Ant- Glauber , Johannes, Dutch P.,Utrecht; werp. pupil of Berchem ; 1646-1724 . Ham Francken , Frans ( François), the Elder , burg, Amsterdam , the Hague. Herenthals ; brother of the preced Godecharle, G. L., S., Brussels ; pu ing and ofJ. F. the Elder, pupil pil of Delvaux ; 1750-1835. Brussels, of Fr. Floris ; 1514-1616 . Antwerp. Goes, lugo van der , P. , Antwerp Francken , Frans, the Younger, Flem . (Ghent or Bruges ?); c. 1120-82. P. , Antwerp ; pupil of his father Bruges, Ghent. xli . Frans F.the Elder (and of Rubens ) ; Goltzius , Ilendrik , P. , Mühlbrecht ; 1581-1612 . Antwerp. 1558-1616. Haarlem . François ( Franchoys), Lucas, the El- Goltzius, Ilubert, P., Würzburg ; pu der , P., Malines; 1574-1613 . pil of his father Rüdiger Goltzius François , Pierre Joseph Célestin , P. , & of Lamb. Lombard ( Liège ) ; 1526 Namur; pupil of Andr. Lens; b . 83. -- xliv. 1759. Brussels . Gossart or Gossaert, Jan, surn . Jan Fyt, Jan , Flem . P. , Antwerp ; pupil of van Maubeuge or Mabuse , Dutch Jan van Berch ; 1609-1661. Antwerp. P. , Maubeuge ; c . 1470-1541. Ant werp , Middelburg, Utrecht. - xliv . Gabriel, Paulus Joseph , P. & S. , Am- | Goubau, Antoine, P., Antwerp ; 1616 sterdam ; pupil ofhis father, Castel- 98. Antwerp . lier ( Paris ), and Canova ; 1785-1833. Goubau , François, P. , Antwerp ; 1622 Amsterdam . 78 ( 9 ). Antwerp. Gaesbeeck , Adriaen van , Dutch P. , Goudt, Hendrik van, P., Utrecht; pu Leyden ; d . 1650 . - lvii. pil of Adam Elshaimer at Rome. Garemyn , Jan , P.; 1712-99. Bruges. 1585-1630. - li , Gallait, Louis, P., Tournai; pupil of Govaerts, Abraham, Landscape-pain Hennequin (Rubens , Van Dyck) ; ter of the 17th cent., in the style 1816-1887. Tournai, Paris , Brussels . of Savery . Geefs, Joseph, P. , Antwerp ; 1808-60. Goyen, Jan van, Dutch P. , Leyden ; Antwerp . pupil of Isaac van Swanenburgh, Geefs, Karl, living P. , Brussels . Jan de Man , and Willem Gerritsz Geefs, Willem or Guillaume, P. , Ant- (Leyden ); 1596-1656. Leyden , The werp ; brother of Joseph G., pupilof Hague . lxi . Ramage ( Paris) ; 1806-83. Antwerp. | Grebber, Frans Pietersz de , P. , Haar 384 LIST OF ARTISTS. lem ; pupil of Cornel. van Haar- 1606 (? ) -83/84. Utrecht, Antwerp. - lem ; 1579-1649. liii . lxi . Grebber, Pieter de, P. , Haarlem ; son | Heemskerck , Maerten van (properly M. of the preceding,pupil of his father van Veen ), Dutch P., Heemskerck ; and Hendrik Goltzius ; b. 1600, d . pupil of J. van Scorel ( Italy , Mi after 1665 . chael Angelo) ; 1498-1574. Haarlem . Greive , Joh . Conr ., P., Amsterdam ; li . pupil of P.F. Greive and G. Sprin- Heemskerck van Beest, Jacob Eduard ger ; b . 1837. van, Dutch P. , Kampen ; b . 1828 . Greive, Petrus Franciscus, P., Amster- | Heere , Lucas de, P. , Ghent; pupil dam ; pupil of C. J. L. Portman ; of his father Jan , of his mother b. 1817-80. Anna Smyters , and of Frans Flo Groux, Charles Corneille Auguste de, ris ; 1534 (?)-S4. P. , Comines ; 1825-70. Heerschop, Hendrik, Dutch P. , Haar Grupello, Gabriel de , S. , Geersberge ; lem ; pupil ofHeda and Rembrandt ; pupil of Artus Quellinus ( ?) ; 1644 1620-72 ( ?). 1730. Brussels, Germany. Heil, Daniel van, P., 1604-62. Brussels. Gruyter, Willem , P., Amsterdam ; b. Helst, Bartholomeus van der , Dutch 1817-80. P. , Haarlem ; 1611-1670. Amster Gu t'ens, Gottfried, P. , Hasselt; pupil dam . lviii . of N. de Keyser (Antwerp ) ; b . 1923. Hemessen ( Heemsen, Hemsen, Hemis sen ), Jan van , Flem . P.; d . before Haanen , Adriana Johanna, Dutch P. , 1566. Antwerp . Oosterhout ; b . 1814. Hennebicq , André, living P. , Tour Haas, Jean Ilubert Léonard de, living nai; pupil of Portaels. Mons. animal- painter, Hedel; b . 1832. Herreyns, Guillaume Jacques, Flem . Ilackaert (Haekaert, Hakkert), Jan , P. & A. , Antwerp ; pupil of his Dutch P. , Amsterdam ; 1629-1699. father Jacques H .; 1743-1827. Ant Amsterdam . werp, Malines. Haerlem , Cornelis van , Dutch P. , Heusch , Willem de , P. , Utrecht; Haarlem ; 1562-1638. Haarlem . 1638 ( ) - 1699 ( ?) . liii . Heuvel, Antoine van den, surn . Don llagen , Joris van der ( Verhagen ), Antonio, P., Ghent ; pupil of Gas Dutch P. , the Hague (Ruysdael); par de Crayer or N. Roose; 1600 1635-1669. The Ilague. 77. Ghent. Hals, Dirk, Dutch P., Haarlem ; pu- Heyden , Jan van der, P. , Gorcum ; pil of his elder brother Frans H .; 1637-1712 . Amsterdam . -- lxii . b. before 1600, d . 1656. Haarlem . Hilverdink, Johannes, Dutch P., Gro lx. ningen ; pupil of Daiwaille and J. Ilals , Frans , the Elder , Dutch P. , W. Pieneman ; b . 1813. Antwerp (?) ; 1580-1666. Haarlem . - Hobbema, Meindert, Dutch P. , Am lviii . sterdam ; 1638-1709 . Amsterdam . Hals, Frans, the younger, Dutch P. , lxi . Haarlem ; son and pupil of the Hoeck ( Hoecke ) , Jan van den , P. , preceding ; flourished at Haarlem , Antwerp ; pupil of Rubens; 1598 1637-69. 1651. Antwerp: Ilamman , Edouard Jean Conrad, P. , Hoet,Gerard,Dutch P. , Bommel; 1648 Ostend ; b. 1819. Paris. 1733. Utrecht, the Hague. Hanselaere, Pieter van , Flem . P., Ilondecoeter, Gillis d ', Dutch P., Ant Ghent ; pupil of P. van Huſlel, werp ; nourished at Utrecht and 1786-1862 Amsterdam in 1609-37; d . 1637. Hauck, Aug. Christian , P., Mannheim ; Hondecoeter , Melchior d ', Dutch P. , 1742-1801. Rotterdam . Utrecht ; pupil of his father Gysbert Haverman, Hendrik Johan , P. , Am- ( +1653) and his uncle J. B. Weenix ; sterdam ; b . 1857. 1636-95 . The Hague, Amsterdam . lleda , Willem Klaasz, P., Haarlem ; Hondius, Abraham , P. , Rotterdam ; b . 1594 , d. after 1678. 1638-95 . Rotterdam , London . Ileem , Corn . de , Dutch P., Utrecht Honthorst, Gerard van , surn. Ghe (?) ; son and pupil of the follow- rardo della Notte , Dutch P. , Ut ing ; b. 1623 (?) , d . after 1671. Ant- recht ; pupil of Bloemaert at Ut werp , The Hague. recht (Caravaggio at Rome); 1590 Icem , Jan Davidsz de, Dutch P., Ut- 1656. Utrecht, The Hague, Lon recht; pupil of his father David ; don . -- li . - l . LIST OF ARTISTS. 385 2 3 Hooch , Pieter de (sometimes Hoogh or the painter Ommeganck ; 1785-1844 . Hooge), Dutch P., Rotterdam ; 1630- Courtrai, Antwerp. 81. Delft, Haarlem ( ?) . - lvii , Jordaens, Jacob, Flem. P., Antwerp ; Hoogstraten, Samuel van, Dutch P., pupil of Adam van Noort (Ant the Hague ; pupil of his father Dirk werp) ; 1593-1678 . Antwerp. -- xlix . and of Rembrandt; 1626-1678. Rome, Justus van Ghent, see Ghent. London , the Hague, Dordrecht. Hool, Johann Baptistvan , S. , Ant- Kaiser', Joh . Willem , engraver, Am werp ; pupil of Van Ursel; 1769- sterdam ; pupil of Taurel ; b . 1813. 1837. Antwerp . Amsterdam. Houbraken , Arnold, Dutch P. , Dor- Kalp ', Willem , P., Amsterdam ; pupil drecht ; 1660-1719. of Hendr. Pot; 1621 ( 22 ) -93. Нор Barthol. Joh. van , P. , the Kampen , Jacob van , A. & P., Amers Hague; 1790-1880. foort ; 1598-1657. Hove, Victor van , S. and P. , Re- Kamper, Gotthart, P., Leyden ; b. 1614 naix ; b . 1825. Brussels . at Düsseldorf, d . 1679 . Pluchtenburgh , Jan van , Dutch P. , Kate, Herman Frederik Karel ten , P. , Haarlem ; pupil of Thomas Wyck the Hague ; pupil of Kruseman ; at Rome (at Paris, A. Fr. van der b . 1822 . Meulen) ; 1616-1733. Haarlem, Am- Keldermans or Keldermann , the name sterdam . of a family of architects of Malines, llu f'el , Pierre van , P. , Grammont ; the most important member of pupil of Herreyns (Malines ) ; 1769- which was Rombout K .; 16th century . 1844. Ghent. Kerckhove ( Kerchove ), Joseph van den , Iluysmans, Jan Baptiste , P. , Ant- P. , Bruges ; pupil of Jan Erasm . werp ; 1651-1711 ). Quellinus; 1670-1724. Bruges . Iluysum, Jan van , Dutch P. , Amster- Kerricr, Guillaume, 8. , Termonde; dam ; pupil of his father Justus ; pupil of Artus Quellinus the Youn 1682-1749. Amsterdam . lxi ger ; 1652-1719. Antwerp. Kessel, Johan van , Dutch P., Amster Israëls, Jozef, Dutch P.; Groningen ; dam ; pupilofRuysdael; 1641(42)-80. pupil of J. A. Kruseman ; b. 1824. Ketel, Cornelis, P. , S., and A. , Gouda pupil of Blocklandt at Delft ; 1548 Jacobsz , Dirck, Dutch P. , Amster- 1616. Gouda, London , Amsterdam . dam ( ?) ; d . 1567 . Keulen, van, see Janssens, Cornelis . Janssens, Abraham , Flem. P. , Ant- Keultjes, Gerrit Laurens, Dutch P. , werp ; pupil of Jan Snellinck ; 1567- Utrecht ; b . 1786. 1632. Antwerp. xlix . Key, Adrien Thomas, P. , Antwerp (?) ; Janssens ( Janson or Jonson ), Cornelis pupil of his uncle Willem K .; c. ( J. van Ceulen ), Dutch P.; 1590 (?) 1514-90. to 1662/64. London , Amsterdam . Key. Lieven de, A. , Ghent, c . 1560 Janssens , François Joseph, S. , Brus- 1627 ; London , Haarlem , Leyden . sels ; 1744-1816 . Brussels . Keyser , Hendrik de , A., S., & P., Janssens, Victor Honoré, P. , Brussels ; Utrecht; pupil of Abr. & Cornelis 1664-1739 . Brussels. Bloemaert; 1565-1621. Amsterdam . Jaquet, Jean Joseph , living S. , Ant- Keyser, Nicaise de, P., Santvliet, near werp ; Brussels . Antwerp ; 1813-87. Antwerp . Jardin , Édouard du, or Dujardin, Keyser, Thomas de, Dutch P., Am P. , Antwerp ; pupil of G.Wappers ; sterdam , son of Hendrik de K.; b.'1817. Antwerp . 1596-1667. Amsterdam . Jardin , Karel du , or Dujardin , Dutch Klinkenberg , Joh . Christ. Karel, Dutch P. , Amsterdam ; pupil of Claes P. , the Hague; pupil Ch , ofPischoff ; Berchem ; c. 1622-78. The Hague, b. 1852. Amsterdam, Italy . -- lxi . Kobell, Jan , P. , Utrecht; pupil of Jehotte , Louis , s. , Liège ; pupil of W. R. van der Wall; 1779-1814. Kessels and Thorvaldsen at Rome: Koeberger ( Coeberger ), Wenceslaus, b. 1803 . Flem . P. & A., Antwerp ; pupil of Jongelincx, Jacob, S. , Antwerp ; 1531- Marten de Vos ; c . 1561-1635 . Ant 1606. Antwerp. werp , Paris, Italy , Brussels. Jongh, Ludolf de, P. , Overschin ; 1616- Koekkoek , Barend Cornelis, P., Mid 97. Rotterdam . delburg ; pupil of his father Joh . Jonghe, Jan Baptist de, P., Courtrai; Herm . K., Schelfhout, & Van Os pupil, of the sculptor Reable and (Amsterdam) ; 1803-62. BAEDEKER'S Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 25 7 386 LIST OF ARTISTS. 3 Matou , Koekkoek, Herman , P. , Middelburg ; | Lingelbach, Jan, P., Frankfort; 1623 brother of the last' and pupil of 1174. Frankfort, Rome, Amsterdam. his father J. Herm. K.; b. 1815 . Lingeman , Lambertus, P., Amsterdam , Koninck ( Koning), Philips de, P., Am- pupil of P. F. Greive ; b. 1829 . sterdam ; pupil of Rembrandt; 1619- Lint , Pierre ( Petrus) van, P., Ant 88. -- lvii . werp ; pupil of Rol. Jacobs ; 1609 Koninck, Salomon, Dutch P. , Amster- 90. Antwerp, also Rome. dam ; 56. Amsterdam . liv . lvi . Livens ( Lievens or Livensz ) , Jan , Koning, Jacob, Dutch P.; about 1615- Dutch P. , Leyden ; 1607-74. Leyden , 1708. England, Antwerp , Hague. - lvii . Korti', A. H. Bakker , Dutch P. , The Lokhorst, Dirk van, Dutch P., Utrecht ; Hague; 1824-82. Leyden. pupil of Verhoesen and Bilders ; b . Kornelissen, Jacob , DutchP., Oost- 1818 . zanen ; flourished ca. 1506-30. Am- Lombard, Lambert( erroneously called sterdam, - xlii . Lambert Suavius or Susterman ) , P. Kruseman , Cornelis, P. , Amsterdam ; and A. , Liège; (Jan Gossart at Mid pupil of C. H. Hodges, Ravelli, delburg ; Raphael in Italy) ; 1505 & J. A. Daiwalle ; 1797-1857. Am- 66. Liège. sterdam. Kruseman, Jan Adam, Dutch P. , Haar- Mabuse, see Jan Gossart. lem ; pupil of Corn . Kruseman and Jean Baptiste, P., Brussels ; J. L. David ; 1804-62. pupil of François ; 1796-1877 . Kuyl, Gysbertvan der, Dutch P.,Gaeda; Maes, Nicolaas, Dutch P., Dord pupil of Crabeth the Younger; d . recht ; influenced by Rembrandt 1673. Gaeda. and the Flemish masters (Ant werp) ; 1632-93 . Delft, Amsterdam, Lairesse, Gérard de, Dutch P., Liège ; Antwerp. pupil of his father Reinier and of Maes, Jan Baptist Lodewyk,P. , Ghent; Bertholet Flémalle of Liège ; 1641- pupil of his father Canini-Maes ; 1711. Liège, Amsterdam , 1794-1856. Lamorinière, Jean Pierre François, Mander, Karel van, the Elder, P. and living P. (landscapes), Brussels. writer on art, Meulenbecke in Lastman, Pieter, Dutch P., Amster- Flanders ; 1548-1606. Rome, Bruges, dam ; pupil of Gerrit Pietersz at Haarlem , Amsterdam. li. Amsterdam (Italy , Elshaimer) ; c. Markelboch , Alexander , living P. , 1553-1633. Amsterdam. - li . Brussels . Lastman, Claes, Dutch P. and etcher Massys, Quinten, also called Matsys brother of the proceeding ; d. 1625 and Metsys, P., Louvain ; 1466-1531 . at Amsterdam. Louvain , Antwerp. Leemans, Anthonie , Dutch P .. Amster- Mathieu , Lambert Joseph , P. , Bure, dam ; b. 1630( 31) , d. after 1653. in the province of Namur; pupil Leickert, Charles Henri Joseph , Dutch of M. van Brée ( Antwerp ) ; 1804 P. , Brussels ; b . 1818. 61. Louvain . Lelie, Adriaan de, Dutch P., Tilburg ; Mauve, Anton, P. Zaandam ; pupil of pupil of Quertemont; 1755-1820 . P. F. von Os ; b. 1838 . Lens, Andreas Cornelis, P., Antwerp ; Meer, Jan van der M. ( Vermeer ) pupil of Charles Ykens & Balthas. Dutch P. ; 1632-75. Delft. – lvii. Beschey of Antwerp ; 1739-1822. Meer, Jan van der M. ( Vermeer ), Antwerp, Brussels . Dutch P., Haarlem ; 1628-91. Haar Lerius, Joseph Henri François van, lem. lxii. P. , Boom , near Antwerp ; 1823-76. Meert, Peter, Flem. P., Brussels ; Leyden , Lucas Jacobsz , " surnamed 1619-69 . Brussels. Lucas van L., P., Leyden ; pupil of Meire, Gerard van der, P., flourish his father Huig Jacobs and ofCor- ed at Ghent. between 1452 and nelis Engelbrechtsen ; 1494-1533. 1474 (Jan van Eyck) . xli . Leyden . - xliii . Memling ( Memlinc) , Hans, Dutch Leys,Hendrik, P., Antwerp ; pupil P .; pupil of Roger van der Wey of Braekeleer; 1815-69. den ; b . before 1430 (?), d. before Liemaeckere, Nicolaas de, surn .Roose, 10th Dec. 1495. Bruges. xli . P. , Ghent ; pupil of Marcus Gee- Mesdag, Hendrik Willem , P., Gro rards & 0. van Veen ; 1575-1646 . ningen ; pupil of Alma Tadema; Ghent. b. 1831. Lies , Joseph, P. , Antwerp ; 1821-65. | Metsu, Gabriel, Dutch P., Leyden ; LIST OF ARTISTS. 387 pupil ofGerard Dou ; 1630-67. Am- | Moucheron, Isaac de, Dutch P.; son sterdam . lx . and pupil of the preceding; 1670 Metsys, Cornelis , Flem . P. , Antwerp ; 1744 ( 1694-97 in Italy ). Amster pupil of his father Qu. Massys ; dam . 1511-80 ( ?). Musscher, Michiel van, P., Rotterdam ; Meyer, Joh . Hendr. Louis, P. , Am- pupil of Abr. van den Tempel, sterdam ; pupil of J. W. Piene- Metsu , & Adr. van Ostade; 1615-1705. man ; 1819-66. Mytens, Arnold, P. , Brussels ; pupil Mierevelt, Michiel Jansz , Dutch P. , of Anth . Santvoort ( Rome) and of Delft ; 1567-1641. Delft, the Hague. Corn . Pyp ( Naples) ; 1511-1602. liii . Mytens, Daniel Martensz, the Elder, Mierevelt, Pieter, P. , Delft ; son and P. , the Hague ; b . 1590, d . after pupil of the last; 1595-1632. – liii. 1658. The Hague, England . Mieris, Frans van, the Elder, Dutch Mytens, Jan or Aart Izack , P. , P. , Leyden ; pupil of the glass- Brussels ; pupil of A. v. Opstal and painter Abraham Toren vliet and N. v . d. Horst ; 1612-71/72. of Gerard Dou ; 1635-81. Leyden lvii . Nakken , Willem Karel, Dutch P., the Mieris, Frans van , the Younger, Hague ; b . 1835 . Dutch P., Leyden ; son and pupil of Navez, François Joseph , P., Charle the following; 1659-1763 . Leyden . roi, pupil of Isidor & Jós. Fran Mieris , Willem van , P. , Leyden ; son çois (Brussels), & of David ( Paris) ; and pupil of Frans van Mieris the 1787-1839. Brussels. Elder ; 1662-1747. Leyden . Neeft's, Pieter, the Elder , P., Antwerp , Mignon ( Minjon ) , Abraham , P.. pupil of Hendrik van Steenwyk ; Frankfort on the Main ; pupil of 1577 ( ? ) - about 1657 . Jan David de Heem at Utrecht ; Neeff's, Pieter, the Younger , P., Ant 1640-79. Wetzlar, Frankfort. werp ; son of the last ; b. 1601 , d. Moer , Jean Baptiste van , living P. , after 1675. Brussels. Neer, Aart van der' , Dutch P. , Am Moerenhout, Josephus Jodocus , Flem . sterdam ( ?) ; 1603-1677 . Amsterdam . P., Eeckeren ; pupil of Verpoorten - lxii . and Horace Vernet; 1801-74. Neer , Eglon van der , Dutch P. , Moeyaert, Nicolaes ( Claes ) Cornelisz , Amsterdam ; son and pupil of the Dutch P .; about 1600 - 69. Italy , last, also pupil of Jacob van Loo ; Amsterdam . 1613-1703. Rotterdam , Amsterdam, Molenaer_ (Molenaar ), Jan Miense, Brussels, Düsseldorf. Dutch P. , Haarlem ; 1610 (?) - 1668. Netscher, Caspar, Dutch P. , Heidel Haarlem . berg ; pupil of Koster at Arnhem Molenaer, Nicolaas or Klaes, P., Haar- and of Terburg at Deventer ; 1639 lem ; d . 1676. Haarlem . 84. The Hague. - lx . Moor, Karel de ,the Elder, P., Ley- | Netscher, Constantyn, Dutch P. , the den ; pupil of G. Dou and Abr. Hague ; pupil of his father Caspar ; van den Tempel ( Frans v. Mieris 1668-1722. The Hague. & Gerh . Schalcken ); 1656-1738 . Nieulant, Willem van, P., Antwerp More ( Moor or Moro), Antonis, P. , 1581-1635 . Utrecht; pupil of J. van Schooreel | Noël, Paul Joseph, Flem . P., Wanl at Utrecht ( also of Italian masters) ; sort ; pupil of Herreyns ; 1789-1822. b. 1512, d . between 1576 and 1578. | Nooms, see Zeeman . Utrecht, Antwerp, and the courts Noort, Adam van , P. , Antwerp ; of Madrid , Lisbon , London , and 1557-1641. ---- xlvi . Brussels . xliv . Noort, Lambert van , P. , Amersfoort; Moreelse, Paulus, Dutch P. , Utrecht ; 1520-71. Antwerp . pupil of Michiel Mierevelt ( Delft) ; 1571-1638 . Utrecht. liii . Ochtervelt ( Uchtervelt ), Jacob or Jan , Moritz, Louis, Dutch P. , the Hague; Dutch P. of the 17th cent., pupil 1773-1850. of Berchem , Metsu , and Terburg ; Mostert ( Mostaert), Jan, Dutch P. , d . before 1710. Rotterdam , Am Haarlem ; follower of Gerard Da- sterdam . vid ; b. 1474 , d . after 1549. Haarlem , Odevaere, Joseph Dionysius, Flem.P., Moucheron , Frederik de , Dutch P. , Bruges; pupil of David at Paris ; Emden ; pupil of Jan Asselyn ; 1778-1830 . 1636 (37)-86 . Amsterdam . Ommeganck, Balthazar Paul, P. & S. , 25 * 388 LIST OF ARTISTS. Both ; - lxii . Antwerp ; pupil of Antonissen ; | Post, Pieler, A. & P., Haarlem ; 1598 1755-1826 . ca. 1665. Haarlem . Oost, Jacob van, the Elder, Flem . P., Post, Frans, P. , Leyden ; 1621 (? ) - 80 . Bruges ( Ann. Carracci) ; 1600-74 Haarlem . Bruges. Potter , Paulus, Dutch P., Enkhuizen ; Oost, Jacob van , the Younger, P., pupil of his father Pieter (Amster Bruges; son and pupil of the last ; dam) and of Jacob de Wet (Haar 1637-1713 . Lille. lem) ; 1625-54. Delft, the Hague , Orley, Barend ( Bernaerd ) van , P. , Amsterdam. lxi. Brussels ; b. betw. 1488 and 1490, Potter, Pieter , Dutch P., Enkhuizen ; d . 1542. Brussels. xliv . 1597-1652. Leyden . Amsterdam . Os, Georgius Jacob Joh . van, P. , the Pourbus, Frans, the Elder, Flem . P. , Hague; son and pupil of Jan van Bruges ; pupil of his father Pieter 0 .; 1782-1861. Amsterdam , Paris . P. and of Frans Floris; b . 1542, 08, Maria Margarita van , Dutch P. , d. after 1591. Bruges, Antwerp. the Hague; pupil of her father xliv , Jan van Os; 1780-1862. Pourbus, Frans, the Younger, Ant Ostade , Adriaen van , Dutch P. , Haar- werp ; son and pupil of the pre lem ; pupil of Frans Hals ; 1610-85 . ceding ; 1569-1622. Antwerp, Paris. Haarlem . lix . Pourbus, Pieter, P. , Gouda; pupil of Ostade, Isak van, Dutch P. , Haar- Lancelot Blondeel (? ) ; 1510 ( 13 ?) lem ; pupil of his brother Adriaen ; 1584. Bruges. 1621-1649. Haarlem , – lix . Prins , Johannes Huibert, P. , the Hague; 1758-1806 . Paelinck , Joseph, P., Oostacker ; pu- Pynacker, Adam , Dutch P. , Py pil of David at Paris ; 1781-1839. nacker, near Delft ; follower of Jan Ghent, Rome, Brussels. 1627-73. Delft. Palamedesz, Antonis P., surn . Ste vaerts, Dutch P. , Delft (Mierevelt & Frans Hals); c. 1601-73 . Delft. | Quast, Pieter Jansz, Dutch P. , Am Pape , Abraham de, Dutch P.; d . 1666. sterdam , imitator of Brouwer ; 1600 - 47. Amsterdam , the Hague. lvii . Pasture Artus ( not , Rogelet de la, see Weyden. Quellinus or Quéllin , Patinir , Joachim P. or Patenier, P. , Arthur'), the Elder , S., Antwerp ; Dinant; d . about 1524. Antwerp. son of Erasmus Q. the Elder, and xliv . pupil of his father and of B. Du Ant Pauwels, Will. Ferd ., P., Eeckeren ; quesnoy (Rome) ; 1609-68 . pupil of Du Jardin & Wappers ; b . werp, Amsterdam , Germany. 1830. Antwerp , Weimar, Dresden , Quellinus, Artus, the Younger, S. , Ypres. St. Trond ; son and pupil of the Peede , Hendrik van , A., flourished foregoing ; 1625-70. Antwerp. at Oudenarde, 1527-30. Quellinus , Erasmus the Younger, Peeters, Jan , P., Antwerp ; 1624-77. P. , Antwerp ; pupilof his father, Pepyn , Martin , P., Antwerp ; 1575 the sculptor E. Q. the Elder, and 1642/43. Antwerp. of Jan Verhaegen, Antwerp (Ru Pieneman, Jan Willem , P., Abcoude; Quellinus , Jan Erasmus, P. , Ant bens) ; 1607-78. Antwerp . xlix . 1779-1853. Delft, the Hague, Am sterdam . werp ; son and pupil of the last Pieneman , Nicolaas, P. , Amersfoort; (Veronese ) ; 1631-1715 . Antwerp . son and pupil of Jan Willem P. | Quinckhard , Jan Maurits, Dutch P. , b . 1809. Rees ; pupil of his father, of Arn, Pietersen , Aert, Dutch P. , Amsterdam ; Boonen ,ChristoffelLubinietzki, and pupil of his father Pieter Aertsen ; Nic. Verkolje ; 1688-1772. Amster 1550-1612 . Amsterdam . dam, Utrecht. Poelenburgh, Cornelis van, Dutch P. , Utrecht; pupil of Abr. Bloemaert Ravenswaag, Jan van, Dutch P. , Hil and Elshaimer ; 1586-1667. Utrecht. versum ; 1789-1869.' li . Ravesteyn ( Ravestyn ) , Jan Poelman , P. J., Flem . P. , Ghent ; Dutch P. , the Hague; 1572 (?) h. 1801. 1657. The Hague. liii . Portaels, Jean François, P. , Vilvorde ; ran Harmense van Ryn, Dutch pupil of Navez & P. Delaroche ; P. , Leyden ; pupil of Jac . van b . 1918. Swanenburgh (Îeyden ) and of Pie 1ܪ van , LIST OF ARTISTS . 389 ter Lastman (Amsterdam ) ; 1606-69. of J. E. J. van den Berg ; b. 1837. Amsterdam . liv . The Hague . Rietschoof , Jan Claesz , Dutch P. , Saenredam , Pieter , Dutch P., Assen Hoorn ; pupil of Abr. Liedts and delft ; pupil of Frans de Grebber L. Bakhuysen ; 1652-1719. (Haarlem ) ; 1597-1665 . Haarlem . Robbe, Henri, P., Courtrai ; b . 1807. Saftleven, Herman , Dutch P. , Rotter Brussels. dam ; pupil ofJan van Goyen ; 1610 Robbe, Louis Marie Domin ., P., Cour- 85. Rotterdam, Utrecht. trai ; b. 1806. Courtrai, Brussels. Sallaert, Antonius, Flem . P. , Brus Rochussen , Charles, P. , Rotterdam ; sels ; pupil of Michel de Bordeaux ; pupil of W. J. J. Nuyen ; b. 1814. b . ca. 1590 , d . after 1618. Brussels. Rotterdam . Sanders, Hercules, Dutch P. , Amster Roelandt, Ludov ., A. , Nieuwpoort; dam ; 1606-63 (? ). pupil of Percier and Fontaine Sandrart, Joachim von, P. , Frank (Paris ) ; 1786-1864 . Liège, Ghent. fort on the Main ; pupil of Gerh . Roelofs, Willem , P., Amsterdam ; Honthorst at Utrecht ( Venice, stu pupil of A. H. Winter (Utrecht) died Titian and Veronese ) ; 1606-88 . & of H. van de Sande-Bakhuyzen England , Venice, Rome, Amster ( the Hague) ; b . 1822. Brussels. dam , Augsburg, Nuremberg. Romans, Jacob, A. & P.; d. 1690. The Santvoort, Dirck Dircksz, P .; pupil Hague, Bois -le - Duc. of Rembrandt (?) ; 1610-1680 . Am Rombouts , Theodor van, P. , Antwerp ; sterdam . pupil of Abr. Janssens the Elder ; Savery, Roelandt, Dutch P. , Courtrai; 1597-1637. Rome , Florence, Ant- pupil of his elder brother Jacob, werp. - xlix . at Amsterdam (?) ; 1576-1639. Ut Romeyn , Willem , Dutch P., Haarlem ; recht. -- xliv . pupil of Claes Berchem ; d . after Schalcken, Godfried , Dutch P. , Dord 1693. Haarlem . recht; pupil of Samuel van Hoog Ronner -Knip , Henriette, P. , Amster- straeten & Gerard Dow ; 1643-1706 . dam ; b. 1821 . Dordrecht, The Hague. lvii . Roose, Nicolaas, see Liemaeckere. Schampheleer, Edmond de, living P. Roosenboom , Margaretha, Dutch P. of ( landscapes), Brussels. still- life ; b. 1843 . Scheemaeckers, Pieter, S. , Antwerp ; Roquelle, Johan de la , Dutch P. , the pupil of P. Verbruggen '; 1640-1714 . Hague; d. after 1694 . Antwerp. Rossum , Johan van , Dutch portrait- Schefer, Ary, P., Dordrecht; pupil painter of the 17th century. ofGuérin (Paris) ; 1795-1858 . Paris. Roth, Georg Andries, P. , Amsterdam ; Schelfhout, Andreas, P. , The Hague ; b. 1809. 1787-1870 . The Hague. Royer , Louis , S. , Malines ; pupil of Schendel, Petrus van, P., Terheyden , J. F. van Geel of Amsterdam ; 1793- near Breda ; pupil of Van Bréé 1868. The Hague, Amsterdam . ( Antwerp ) ; 1806-70 . Amsterdam , Rubens, Petrus Paulus, Flem. P., b . Rotterdam , The Hague, Brussels . at Siegen in Nassau ; pupil ' of Scholten , Hendrik Jacobus, P. , Am Tobias Verhaegt, Adam van Noort, sterdam ; pupil of Greive ; b. 1824 . and Otho van Veen (Antwerp) ; Schooreel ( Scorelor Schoorl) , Jan 1577-1640. Italy, Antwerp. - xlvi . van, P. & A. , Schoorl, near Alk Ruysch, Rachel, Dutch P., Amster- maar ; 1495-1562. Rome, Utrecht, dam pupil of Willem van Aelst; Haarlem . xliv . 1664-1750 ; Amsterdam, The Hague. Schooten , Joris van , Dutch P., pupil - lxii . of C. van der Maes (Leyden) ; b. Ruysdael, Isaac van, Dutch P. , bro- 1587-1651. ther of Sal . van R .; d . 1677 . Schotel, Joh. Christianus, P. , Dord Ruysdael, Jacob van , Dutch P .; son recht; pupil of A. Meulemans & M. and pupil of Isaac van R .; 1628 (29)- Schouman ; 1787-1838 . Dordrecht. 82. Haarlem , Amsterdam . -- lxi . Schotel, Petrus Joh ., P. , Dordrecht; Ruysdael, Salomon van, Dutch P. , son and pupil of the last ; 1808-65 . Haarlem ; d . 1670. Haarlem . Schouman , Martinus, P. , Dordrecht ; Ryckaert, David, the younger ; Flem . pupil of M. Versteeg and of his P., Antwerp ; pupil of his father; uncle Aart S.; 1770-1848 . 1612-62 . Antwerp. Schut, Cornelis, P., Antwerp ; pupil of Rubens; 1597-1655 .Antwerp . - xlix. Sadée, Philip , P. , the Hague ; pupil | Schwartze, Therese , P., Amsterdam ; 390 LIST OF ARTISTS. pupil of her father J. G. Schwartze Swanevelt, Herman van, P., Woer and Gabriel Max ; b . 1851 . den (Rome, Claude Lorrain) ; 1620 (?) Seghers, Daniel, Flem. P., Antwerp ; -1656 . lxii. pupil' of Velvet Brueghel ; 1590- Swerts, Jan , P. , Antwerp ; pupil of 1661. Antwerp . Nic. de Keyser ; 1820-79. Seghers, Gerard , P., Antwerp ; 1591 1651. Antwerp , Madrid . xlix. Tempel, Abraham van den , Dutch P. , Simonis, Eugène, S. , Liège ; pupil of Leeuwarden ; 1622-72 . Leyden, Am Kessels & Finelli (Rome) ; b . 1810 . sterdam . Liège, Brussels. Teniers, David , the Elder, Flem . P. , Slingelandt, Pieter van, Dutch P., Antwerp ; pupil of his elder bro Leyden ; pupil of Gerard Dou ; ther Julien (Rome , Elshaimer ) ; 1640-91 ; Leyden . - lvii . 1582-1649. Antwerp. Slingeneyer, Ernest , P., Loochristy , Teniers, David , the Younger , Flem . near Ghent; pupil of'G . Wappers , P., Antwerp ; son and pupil of the b. 1820 ( 23 ). last ; 1610-90 . Antwerp, Brussels. Sluys, Belgian A.; 1782-1861. 1 . Snayers, Peter , Flem . P., Antwerp ; Terburg ( Terborch, Ter Borch ), Ge pupil of Seb. Vrancx ; b . 1593, rard , Dutch P., Zwolle ; pupil of d. after 1669. Antwerp, Brussels. hisfather (Haarlem , Frans Hals) ; Snyders, Frans, Flem. P., Antwerp ; 1617-81 . Deventer. - lx . 1579-1657. Antwerp. xlix . Teunissen ( Antoniszon ), Cornelis,Dutch Snyers, Pieter , Flem . P. , Antwerp ; P. , 1533-57. Amsterdam. liii . 1681-1752. Antwerp. Thulden ( Tulden ), Theodore van , P. , Sorgh, Hendrik Maertensz, Dutch P. , Bois -le-Duc; pupil of Abr. Blyen Rotterdam (?) ; pupil of Willem berch & Rubens ; 1607 (?) - 1676 (?) . Buitenweg ; 1611-70 (?). Rotterdam . Paris, Antwerp , Bois-le-Duc. Soutman, Pieter , P., Haarlem ; pupil Thys ( Thyssens), Peter , the Elder, P. , of Rubens ; 1580-1657. Antwerp ; pupi of A. Deurwaer Spinny , W., P. , Brugsels ; d . 1785 at der ; 1616-77 (79 ). Antwerp . the Hague. Tilburg ( Tilborgh ), Egidius (Gilles ) Springer , Cornelis, P. , Amsterdam ; van , P., Brussels ;pupil of his fa pupil of K. Karsen ; b. 1817. ther ; 1625-78 (? ) . Brussels. Stallaert, Joseph , living P. , Tournai . Tol, Dominicus van , Dutch P .; pupil Brussels . of Ger. Dou ; b. between 1631 and Staveren, Johan Adriaensz van, Dutch 1642 , d . 1676. Leyden. P., Leyden ; d. 1669. Trigt, Hendrik Albert van , P. , Dord Steen, Jan , Dutch P., Leyden ; pu- recht ; b. 1829. pil ' of Nic. Knupfer ( Utrecht) ; Troost, Cornelis, P., Amsterdam ; pu 1626 (?) - 1679. Leyden , Haarlem, pil of Arnold Boonen ; 1697-1750. Delft . Ix. Amsterdam. Stevens, Alfred , P. , Brussels ; pupil Tschaggeny , Karl , P. , Brussels ; b. of Navez and Roqueplan (Paris) ; 1815. b. 1828 . Tuerlinckx, Joseph , S. , Malines ; pupil Stevens, Joseph, living P., Brussels ; of Brée & W. Geefs (Br b. 1815 ( 19) . Paris . sels) ; b. 1820 . Stobbaerts , Jean - Baptiste , living P. , Tybaut, w ., P. & P. on glass, Haarlem ; Antwerp. latter half of the 16th cent. Stoop, Dirck, Dutch P.; 1610 (?) - 86. Utrecht, Lisbon . Uchtervelt, see Ochtervelt. Strackée, F. , living S. , Amsterdam. Uden , Lucas van, P. , Antwerp ; 1595 Stroobant , Franz , P., Brussels ; b . 1672 (3 ). Antwerp. - xlix. 1819. Ulft, Jacob van der, Dutch P. , Gor Stry, Jacob van, P., Utrecht; pupil cum ; 1627-88 (?) . " Gorcum. of A. C. Lens ; 1756-1815 . Utrecht, Adrian van , Flem, P. , Ant Stuerbout, see Bouts. werp ; pupil of Harmen de Ryt ; Susterman, Lambert, see Lombard . 1599-1652. Antwerp. Suys, Léon, the Younger, living P. , Brussels. Vaenius, see Veen . Swanenburgh, Izack Claesz van, P.; Valckert, Werner van , Dutch portrait d . 1614 . painter ; pupil of Goltzius ; Swanenhurgh, Jacob Izacksz van, P. , flourished 1612-30 at Amsterdam son of the last ; 1580-1658 liii. and Haarlem. LIST OF ARTISTS . 391 Veeken , Jan Baptist van der , Flem . de, S. , Ghent; pupil of Pierre de P. on glass ; middle of 16th cent. Sutter and of Bouchardon (Paris) ; Veen ( Ven) , Jan A. van der, living S. , 1710-93. Rome, Mannheim. Bois - le -Duc. Verschuier , Lieve , P. , Rotterdam ; Veen, Marten H. van, see Heemskerck. 1630 (? ) - 86 . Veen, Otto van V., or Otho Vaenius Verschuur, Wouterus ( Walter ), P. , ( Venius), Flem . P., Leyden ; 1558- Amsterdam ; pupil of P. G. van Os 1629 . Liège , Leyden , Antwerp , & C. Steffelaar ; 1812-74 . Brussels, - xlvi . Verspronck, Cornelis Engelszoon , P., Velde, Adrian van de, Dutch P. , Am- Haarlem ; pupil of Corn . Cornelisz sterdam ; pupil of his father Wil- and Karel van Mander ; 17th cent. lem ( Amsterdam ); 1635-72 . Am- Haarlem . sterdam , Delft. -- Ixi . Verspronck, Jan , Dutch P. , Haar Velde, Esaias van de, Dutch P. , Am- lem ; son of the last , pupil of Frans sterdam ; ca. 1590-1630 . Haarlem , Hals ; 1597-1662. Haarlem . the Hague. Versteeg, Maggiel, P., Dordrecht ; pu Velde, Willem van de V., the Elder, pil of A. van Wanum ; 1756-1843. P. , Leyden ; father of Adrian and Verveer , Elchanon , P. , the Hague ; Willem V. the Younger ; 1611-93. pupil of the following and of Herm . England . Ten Kate ; b. 1826 . Velde, Willem van de V., the Younger , Verveer, Salomon Leonardus, P., the Dutch P. , Amsterdam ; brother of Hague; pupil of B. J. van Hove; Adrian , pupil of his father Willem 1813-76 . The Hague. & of Simon de Vlieger ; 1633-1707. Vervloet, Francis, Flem. P., Malines ; Amsterdam , Greenwich. lxii . 1795-1872. Venne , Adrian van de , Dutch P. , Victor or Fictor, Jacomo, Dutch P.; Delft; pupil of Simon Valck the prob . a relative of Jan Victors ; goldsmith ; 1589-1662. Middelburg, flourished at Amsterdam about 1670. the Hague. Victor's ( Victor , Victoor , Fictoor) , Jan , Verboeckhoven , Charles Louis , P. , Dutch P. , Amsterdam ; pupil of Warneton ; pupil of his father Bar- Rembrandt; b. 1620 , d . after 1672. thélemy V.; b . 1802. Vieillevoye , J. B. de, P., Verviers ; Verboeckhoven , Eugène Joseph , P. , d . 1855. Liège. Warneton ; brother of the last, pu- | Vigne, Félix de, P., Ghent; 1806-62. pil of his father ( Potter , Omme- Vigne, Petrus de, S., Ghent; brother ganck) ; 1799-1881. Brussels. of the last ; 1812-77. Verboom , Adrian H. , Dutch P. , Am- Vinck , Franz , living P., Antwerp ; sterdam ; b. 1628 , d . after 1670 . pupil of Leys. Verbruggen, Henri François, S., Ant- Vinckboons, David , Dutch P., Ma werp ; son and pupil of the fol- lines ; pupil of his father Philip lowing ; 1655-1724 . Antwerp . (Amsterdam ); 1578-1629 . Amster Verbruggen, Pieter , S. , Antwerp ; fa- dam. ther of the foregoing ; d . 1686 . Vinckenbrinck, Albert, S. , Sparendam ; Verhaagt, Tob . , P., Antwerp, 1566- 17th cent. 1631 . Vingboons , Ph . , A. , Amsterdam ; Verhaghen, P. J., P. , Aerschot. 1728- 1608-75 . 1811. Louvain . Vlieger', Simon de, Dutch P., Rotter Verhas, Jean, living P. , Antwerp. dam ; b. ca. 1600, d. before 1660. Verhulst, Rombout, S. , Malines or Delft, Amsterdam. Breda ; pupil of Rombout Verstap- Vliet, Hendrik van, Dutch P., Delft ; pen & François van Loo ; 1624-1698 . pupil of his father Willem and of Holland. Michiel van Mierevelt (Delft ) ; c . Verkolje, Jan , Dutch P., Amsterdam ; 1611-75 . Delft. – lxii . pupil of Jan Livens; 1650-93. Delft . Vois, Ary ( Adrian ) de, Dutch P. , Verlat, Charles, P. , Antwerp ; pupil Leyden ; pupil of Nic . Knupfer of Nic. de Keyser ; b. 1825. Wei- (Utrecht) & of Abraham van den mar. Tempel ( Leyden ); 1630 ( ?) - 98 . Ley Verlinde, Pierre Antoine, P. , Winox- den . bergen ; b. 1801. Paris, Antwerp. | Vollenhoven , Herman van , Dutch P. , Vermeer , see Meer. Utrecht ; beginning of the 17th cent. Verschaeren , Jean Antoine , P., Ant- Vollevens, Jan, the Elder, Dutch P. , werp ; pupil of Herreyns'; 1803-63. Geertruidenberg ; pupil of N. Maes Verschatelt, Pierre Antoine, Chevalier in Dort ; 1649-1728. The Hague. 392 LIST OF ARTISTS . Voort, Cornelis van der, Dutch P. , Wildens , Jan, P., Antwerp ; pup. Antwerp ; flourished at Amster- of Verhulst; 1536-1653. Antwerp. dam ; 1576-1624. Willaerts , Adam (or Willarts) , P., Vos , Cornelis de , Flem . P., Hulst ; Antwerp ; 1577-1664 (?) . Utrecht. pupil of David Remeeus ; c. 1585- Willeborts, Thomas, surn . Bosschaert 1651. Antwerp. ( Bossaert), P. , Bergen -op-Zoom ; Vos, Marten de, Flem . P., Antwerp ; pup. of G.Seghers; 1614-54.Antwerp. pupil of Frans Floris ; 1531-1603. Willemssens, Louis, S., Antwerp ; pu Venice, Antwerp. pil of A. Quellin the Elder ; 1630 V08, Simon de , Flem . P., Antwerp ; 1702. Antwerp . pupil of Corn . de Vos ; 1603-76 . Winter, Abraham Hendrick , P., Ut Antwerp . recht; 1800-61. Vrancx, Sebastian, P. , Antwerp ; 1573- | Wit, Jacob de, P. , Amsterdam ; 1695 1647 . 1754. Amsterdam. Vriendt , Cornelis de , A., Antwerp ; Witte , Emanuel de , Dutch P., Alk brother of the next; 1518-75 . Ant- maar ; pupil of Evert van Aelst ; werp. 1607-92 . Delft, Amsterdam. lxii . Vriendt (Vrint), Frans de, surn . Witte , Gaspard de , P. , Antwerp ; Frans Floris, P., Antwerp ; c . 1520- 1618-80 (81). Antwerp. 70. Antwerp. xliv. Wolfvoet , Johannes Victor , P. , Ant Vries, H. Vredeman , A. & P. , Leeu werp ; pupilof his father Victor W. warden ; 1528-1607. Germany, Hol- and of Rubens; 1612-52. Antwerp . land . Wolterbeck , Anná Henriette, Amster Vroom , Hendrik Cornelisz , Dutch dam ; b . 1834 . P. , Haarlem ; 1556-1640. Haarlem . Wouters, Charles Augustin, P., Boom , near Antwerp ; b. 1811. Malines . Waldorp , Antoine , P., ' t Huis ten Wouverman , Jan , Dutch P. , Haar Bosch , near the Hague ; pupil of lem ; brother and pupil of Philip Breckenheimer ; 1803-61 . W.; 1629-66 . Haarlem . Wappers, Gustav, P. , Antwerp ; pupil Wouverman, Philip, Dutch P., Haar of J. J. van Regemorter , Van lem ; 1619-68. Haarlem . lxi. Brée, and Herreyns; 1803-74 . Ant- Wouverman, Pieter, Dutch P., Haar werp . lem ; brother of the last, pupil of Waterlo , Anthonie, Dutch P. and his father Paulus W .; 1623-82 . etcher, Lille ; b . 1609( 10 ), d . after Haarlem , 1670. Leeuwarden, Amsterdam. Wttewaal ( Wittewaal) , Joachim An Wauters, Emile, P., Brussels ; pupil tonisz, P., Utrecht; pupil of Joos of Portaels & Gérôme (Paris) ; b . de Beer ; 1566-1638 . France, Italy . 1816. Brussels. Wulfaert, Adrien, P., Tergoes ; pu Weenix, Jan, Dutch P., Amsterdam ; pil ofDucq (Bruges) and Gallait ; son and pupil of the following; b. 1801. Antwerp , Ghent. 1640-1719. Amsterdam , Utrecht. Wyck, Thos ., Dutch P.,Beverwyck ,near Weenix , Jan Baptist , Dutch P. , Am- Haarlem 1616 (?)- 1677. Haarlem . sterdam ; pupil of Jan Micker and Wynants, Jan , Dutch P.; b.1600 ( ?) , Abr. Bloemaert (Utrecht ) and of flourished at Haarlem and Amster Claas Moeyaert (Amsterdam ); 1621- dam 1641-79. lxi . 60. Amsterdam, Utrecht. Werlt , Adrian van der , Dutch P.. Kralingen, near Rotterdam ; pupil Ykens, Jean, S. & P. , Antwerp ; 17th of Cornel. Picolet & Eglon van cent. der Neer ; 1659-1722. Rotterdam . Ykens ( Eyckens), Pieter, P., Antwerp; Werlt', Pieter van der , Dutch P., son and pupil of the last ; 1618 brother and pupil of the last ; 1665 95(96) . Antwerp. 1721. Rotterdam . Weyden , Roger (Rogier ) van der, also Zeeman , Reinier ( Remigius ) , proper called Roger ( Rogelet) de la Pasture, name supposed to be Nooms, Dutch P. , Tournai; 1399 ( 1400 )-1464. Tour- P., Amsterdam ; b . 1612 ( ? ), flour nai , Brussels, Louvain . – xli . ished at Amsterdam till after Wiertz , Antoine Joseph, P. & S., Di- 1660. nant; 'pupil of Herreyns and Van Zeghers, see Seghers. Brée ; 1806-65 . Brussels. Zorgh , see Sorgh. INDE X. Aa, the 360. 375 . Amsterdam : Amsterdam : Aalst 10, Botanic Garden 307. Panoramas 294. 306. Abcoude 354. Buitenkant 298. Park 306 . Achel 177, 360 . Buitensingel 305 . Plantage 307. Acoz 184 . Canals 297 . Post Office 295 . Acren 69 . Cemetery 306 . Prins Hendrik Kade Adeghem 10. Charities 334. 298. Adinkerke 32. Churches 335 . Quays 298 . Adseux 231. Commercial School Rail. Stations 293. 298 . Aeltre 10. 305 . 307. Aerschot 176. 195 . Concerts 294. 331. Rembrandtsplein 303. Aerseele 31 . Dam 299. Rembrandt's Statue303 . Ste. Agathe 11 . Diamond Polishers 307. House 307. Agimont 190. Docks 298. Remonstrants, Church Agnetenberg, the 348. Dock Yard 298 . of the 305 . Aigremont 221. Dutch Museum 309. Rietlande 295. Aisne 217. English Church 293.335 . Ruyter's House, De, 298 . the 217. Engravings 316. Ryks Museum 308. Aix - la -Chapelle 176. 225. Entrepôt 299 . Admirals' Room 316 . 227. Ethnolog. Museum 306 . Anatomical paintings Akkrum 349. Exchange 299. 325. Alblasserdam 175 . Felix Meritis 316 . Antiquarian Society Aldekerk 368. Fish Market 299. 311. Alkmaar 340. Grachten 297 . Cabinet of coins 316 . Alle 195 . Harbour 297 . -- of engravings 316 , Alost 10 . Historical Gallery 303 Carlovingian Room Alphen 258. Hooge Sluis 306 . 321 . Altbach, the 239 . Hosp. of St. James 306 . Collection of casts Altenberg 225. Industrial Palace 306 . 317. Altlinster 242. Jewish Quarter 307 . of weapons 309. Altscheid 234. Kalverstraat 302. Colonial collection Alttrier 239. Kweekschool 298. 309. Altwies 239 . Lees Museum 303 . Costumes 309, 315. Alzette , the 235. 237. Library Royal 316. Dupper Room 323. St. Amand 203 . Univ. 303 . Dutch Museum 309. St. Amans- lez - Puers 62. Maatschappy tot Nut East Court 308 . Amay 222 van't Algemeen 335 . Ecclesiastical De Amblève 315. Melkhuis 334 . partment 311. the 215. 232. Metalen Kruis 302. Gallery of Paintings Amersfoort 317. Montalbaans Tower298 . 218. Ammeldingen 240. Muider Poort 306 . Hall of Honour 315 . Ampsin 222. Museum 303 . Library 316 . · Amstel , the 296 . Dutch 309. Military and Naval Amsterdam 293 . Fodor 304. Collection 309. Academy of Science Nieuwe Kerk 300. Modern Paintings 303. Markt 297. 331. 332. St. Anthonieswaag 299 . Nieuwe Zyds Vorbur- Museum van der Antiqnar. Society 303. gival 297. Hoop 330. Aquarium 306. Orphanage 302. 334 . Naval Department Arti et Amicitiæ 303. Oude Kerk 297. 310 . Artis 306 . Palace 300 . Porcelain 315 . Beguinage 302. Paleis voor Volksvlyt | Portrait Room 325 . Blind Asylum 334 . 306. Regent Room 323 . 2 394 INDEX. > Amsterdam : Antwerp : Antwerp : Ryks Museum : Bourse 149. Railway Stations 136 . Rembrandt Room Capuchins , Church of Rockox's House 149. 320 . 149. Rubens' House 163. Secular Architecture Carnot's Statue 169. Statue 141 . 312. Cathedral 141 . Rue Nationale 151. Van der Hoop Room Conscience's Mon. 149. du Peuple 156. 330. Coudenberg's Stat. 153. Ryswyck'sMonum.154. Van de Poll Room Docks 171. Sacré Coeur, Basilique 324. St. Elizabeth Hospital du 159 . West Court 317. 153 . Salvius Brabo Foun Schreyerstoren 298. English Church 138 . tain 147. Seamen's Instit, 298 . Entrepôts 171. Schoonbeke's Monum. Shops 294 . Exchange 149. 169. Singel-Gracht 297. Fortifications 140 . Steen , the 170 . Six Gallery 303 . St. George 154. Teniers's Statue 153. Stadhuis 302. Guild Houses 147. Theatres 138. 152. 153 . Steamboats 295. Hospital 169. Tonkin House 168 . Synagogues 307. Hôtel de Ville 146. Van Dyck's Statue 148 . Theatres 294. 306 . Institut de Comm, 152 . Van Liere's House 149. Thorbecke'sStatue 303. St. Jacques 151. Vlaamsch Hoofd 171 . Tolhuis 336. Jesuits' Church 149. Wharfs 169. Tramways 294. Jordaens's Statue 168 . Zoolog. Garden 169. University 303. St. Joseph 169. Anvaing 55. Library 303. Leopold I.'s Statue 153. Anvers 138. Vondelspark 334 . Leys' House 153 . Anvers- Dam 172. Vondel's Statue 334. Statue 168. Apeldoorn 342. Weigh House 299. Library, Municipal 149. Ardenne 189 . Zeemanshoop 302. Longue Rue Neuve 149. Ardennes, Forest of 191. Zeemanshuis 298. Loos, Mon. de 168 . Ardoye 31 . Zoolog. Garden 306 . Lutheran Church 149. Arendskerke 245 . Ancre, Chất. 214. Maison Hanséatique Argenteau 218. Andelst 373. 171. Arkel 373 . Andenne 223. - des Orphelines 154. Arlon 194 . Andrimont 231. Massys' Well 146. Armentières 30. Angelsberg 235 . Monum . 168. Arnemuiden 245 . Angleur 214. 225 . Military Hospital 149. Arnhem 357 . Anhée 184 . Musée Commerciel 168. Arras 181 . St. Anna ter Muiden 9 . Moderne 166. Arville, Chất. 22A . Anna- Paulowna 341. Plantin-Moretus 154. Asch 176. Anor 189. Museum 156 . Ans 197 . - of Antiquities 170. Aspelt 239. Anseghem 34 . Notebohm's Coll . 148. Assen 349. Angemburg 237 . Notre Dame 141 . Assendelft 337. Angeremme 189. Palace, Royal 153. Asselborn 234 . Antoing 68. Palais de Justice 153. Assesse 191 . Antwerp 136. des Beaux -Arts 156. Astenet 227. Académie des Beaux- Panorama 138. 169. Ath 69 . Arts 148. Park 168. Athus 194. St. Andrew 155 . Park of the Palais de Attert , the 235. Augustinian Ch. 154. l'Industrie 168 . Attres 69. St. Antoine 14y. St. Paul 148 . Aubel 225 . Athénée Royal 152. Pepinière 169. St. Aubert, Mont 58. 61 . Avenue des Arts 153 . Picture Gallery 158 . Audeghem 62. du Commerce 152. Place de la Commune Audenarde 33 . de l'Industrie 153 . 152. Aulne, Abbey of 182 . du Sud 153. de Meir 153 . Autel 194. 195 , Bank 153. Verte 141 . Auveloig 184 . Boduognatus's Statue Porte de l'Escaut 170. Ave-Cappelle 31 . 169. - de Malines 156 . Avenhorn 343. Borgerhout 169. 172. Post Office 136. Avennes 223 . Botanic Garden 153. Promenoirg 170.- Averbode, Abbey of 176. Boucheries 148 . Quays 169 . Avernas 223. Ascq 68 . INDEX. 395 Avins-en- Condroz 223 . Bergen (Holland ) 312 . Boom 11. 62. 135. 137. Axel 135 . Bergen op Zoom 246. Boortmeerbeek 135. Aye 191 Berkel, the 352. Borger 349. Aywaille 215. Berlaer 176 . Borinage, le 180. Bernimont 194 . Born 241. Baarn 338. 374 . Bernissart 68. Bornhem 135 . Bachte-Maria- Leerne 55. Bertrée 223. ' S Bosch 360 . Baelen 177 . Bertringen 195. Bouchout 115. 175 . Baesrode 62. 135 . Bertrix 195 . Boucle 33 . Baexem 177 . Berwinne, the 218. Bouillon 195. Baisieux 68 . Berzée 183. Bour 237. Balgerhoeke 10. Best 360 . Bourcy 194. Baraque Michel 231. Bettel 239. Boussu 180. Barendrecht 378 . Bettendorf 239. Boussu - Haine 69. Barneveld 352. Bettingen 195. Bousval 182 . Barse 223 Betuwe, the 373. Bouvigne 187 . Barvaux 217. Beugen 373. Bouvines 68. Barry 69, Beveland Canal, the 246. Bouwel 135. 177. Basècles 55 . Beveren 32. 63 . Bovenkarspel 343. Bas - Oha 223 . Beverloo 360 . Bovigny 216. Bassilly 70 . Beverst 176. 360. Boxmeer 373. Bastendorf 239. Beverwyk 339. Boxtel 360. 375. Bastogne 194 . Beytheim 32. Bracquegnies 182 . Bath 246. Bierghes 70 . Brages 70. Fort 174. 216 . Bièvre 195 . Braine l'Alleud 130. 178 . Bathmen 353. Biesbosch , the 374. Braine- le - Comte 178. 181 . Battice 225, 226 . Biezelinge 246 . Braives 223 . Baulers 130. 192 . Bildchen 240. Brandenburg 239 . Baumbüsch Forest 237. Biljoen 359. Brasschaet 172. Bazeilles 190 . Bilgen 360 . Breda 375. Beaufort 236. Binche 181 . Brederode 291 , 339. Chật. 223. Binsfeld 210 . Brée 360 . Beau- Fraipont 214. Bioulx , Châtean 187. Breitweiler 236 . Beaumont 214. Birbaix, Château 191. Bremen 351 . Beauraing 193 . Birtringen 235 . Breskens, Fort 244. 9. Beek 372. Bivels 240 . Breukelen 354. 356 . Beek - Elsloo 372. Blaauwe Trappen 291 . Brialmont 214. Beekhuizen 359 . Blanc-Misgeron 181 . Broek 338 . Beemster 342. 313. Blandain 68. Bronbeek 359. Beerze, the 375. Blankenberghe 7. 10. Brouwers haven 174. Beesd 373. Blaton 55. 68. 69, Brugelette 69. Befort 236. Blees, the 239. Bruges 11 . Beilen 349. Bleesbruck 239. Academy 26. Beirvelde 62. Blerick 373. 374. St. Anna 26 . Belfeld 373. Bleyberg 225 . Antiquities, Coll. of22. Belle 10. Bloemendaal 291. 339. Arquebusiers' Guild Belle - Alliance 129. 118. Bloemendael 10 . house 27. Belle - Fontaine - lez - Etalle Blokker 343. St. Basile 23 . 195. Blumenthal, the 236 . Béguinage 27 . Belle - Roche 215. Bocholt 353. Belfry 21 . Bellevue, Château of 190. Bocq , the 187.191 . Breidel and Coninc's Bellingen 70 . Bodeghem 11 . Mon. 21 . Belcil 69. Bodegraven 258. 356 . Cathedral 13 . Belvaux 192 . Boesinghe 28 . Chap. du Saint Sang 23. Bemmel 370. 373. Bois - du - Luc 182. Charles II.'s House 22, Bennebroek 258. Bois - le -Duc 360 . Cour des Princes 23. Benonchamps 194. 231. Boisschot 176. Cranenburg 22. Benrath 368 . Boitsfort 191 . Dames Anglaises , Cou Bentheim 354. Bollendorf 240 . vent des 27. Berchem 11. 135. 372 . Bolsward 349. Fish Market 22. Bercheux 194. Bomal 217. St. Gilles 26 . Berdorf 236 . Bommel 361. Government Buildings Bergen 178. Bonne Espérance 181 . 22. + 396 INDEX. Grande Place 21 . Brussels : Brussels : Gruuthuyse Palace 17. Ecole Industrielle 110. Monument of Belliard Halles 21 . Modèle 110. 80 . Hospital of St. John 18 . Polytechnique 108. Charles of Lor Hosp. de la Potterie 26 . Vétérinaire 111 . raine 88 . Hospices Civiles 21 . Eglise des Carmes 113 . Cockerill 113. Hôtel de Ville 23. - du Béguinage 111 . Egmont and St. Jacques 22 . du Musée 89 . Hoorn 102. Jérusalem , Egl . de 26. Egmont and Hoorne's Gendebien 104 . Library 25. Monum . 102. Godfrey de Bouil Ste. Madeleine 27 . Embassies 76. lon 88. Maison de l'Ancien English Churches 76. Helmont 110. Greffe 23. Entrepôt 114 . Leopold I. 114 . Marché du Vendredi 12 . Exchange 109 . Quetelet 81 . Memling's Statue 26. Ferme Royale 114. Rouppe 113. Meyer's Collection 26 Festivals 76. Verhaegen 108 . Museum 20 . Fish- market 110. Vesalius 111 . Notre Dame 15 . Fontaine de Brouckére Musée desArmures 113. Palais de Justice 25 . 113. d'Art Monum . 82. Poorters Loodze 26. Galerie du Commerce Commercial 111 . Porte d'Ostende 23 . 108. Communal 106 . Railway Station 12. St. Hubert 107 . d'Hist.Naturelle112. St. Sauveur 13 . du Nord 109. Moderne S9. Stevin's Statue 21 . Grand Sablon 101 . du Nord 109. Tonlieu 25. Grande Place 105. de Peinture 94 . Van Eyck's Statue 25. Ste. Gudule 85 . Scolaire 85. Bruges-Bassin 10. Guild Houses 107 . de Sculpture 93. Brumiagne, Chất. 22. Halle au Pain 106 . Musée Wiertz 112. Brummen 352. Halles Centrales 110. Musical Inst . 103 . Brussels 72. Hippodrome 115. 76. Nat. Hist . Coll. 112 . Abattoirs 114 . Hoogstraat 104. Notre Dame de la Cha Académie 81 . Horse Races 76. 115. pelle 104 . Allée Verte 114 . Horticulture, Etab , de des Victoires 101 . Ancienne Cour 89. 112 . Palais des Académies Antiquities 82. Hospice Pachéco 113. 81 . Archives 104. St. John's Hospital 111. des Beaux Arts 93 . Augustine Church 109. Hôtel de Ville 105 . Royal 80 . Avenue du Midi 113. des Ventes 110 . du Cinquantenaire Banks 76. Hotels 72. 81 . Baths 74. St. Jacques sur Cauden- du Comte de Flandre Banque Nationale 87. berg 88. 93. Béguinage, Egl . du 111 . Jesuit Church 111 . Ducal 81 . Blind Asylum 113 . St. Joseph 112. Arenberg 102. Bois de la Cambre 115 . Kuylenberg's House + de Justice (old ) 101 . Botanic Garden 111 . 103. ( new) 103 Boulevards 109.111.113. Lace 74. du Midi 110. Bourse 10 ). Laeken 114 . de la Nation 81 . Cabs 75. Library, Royal 88 . du Peuple 82 . Cafég 73. 74. Maison du Roi 106 . Parc Léopold 112. Caserne du Petit Châ- Mannikin 107. Park 80. teau 114. Marché Couvert 107.85 . Passage 107. Cathedral 85. - de la Madeleine 107. Pensions 73. St. Catherine 110 . Ste . Marie de Schaer- Petit Sablon 101 . Cemeteries 115. 114. beek 111 . Petits Carmes, les 103. Chap.del'Expiation168 . Markets 107, 110. Picture Gallery 94. Château 115 . Martyrs Monument109. Place des Barricades Cité Fontainas 113 . St. Mary's 114 , 111 . Coll. of Coing 89. Mint 113. du Congrès 85. - of Engravings 89. Montagne de la Cour de la Monnaie 108 . Colonne du Congrès 85 . 88. 108 . du Musée 88 . Concerts 76. du Tonnerre 114 . Royale 80. 87. Conservatoire de Mu- Monument of Anees Rouppe 113 . sique 103. sens 110. Porte de Hal 113. 105. INDEX. 397 Brugsels : Centre, le 181. | Dalheim 178. 218. 239. Post Office 74. 108. 109. Châleux 189 . Damme 27. 9 . Quartier Léopold 112. Chapelle- à -Wattines 69. Dasburg 240 . Railway Stations 72. Charlemont 190 . Dave 187. 112. 113. Charleroi 181. 183 . De Bilt 347 . Ravestein Mansion 108. Charleville 190 . De Burg 342. Restaurants 73. Chastre 191 . De Peel 374 . Rue Haute 104 . Châtelet 184 . De Punt 350 . de la Madeleine 108. Châtelineau 184 . De Steeg 352. Neuve 108 . Chaudfontaine 225 . Dedemsvaart 349. de la Régence 93. Chawion , the 230 . Deerlyck 34 . Royale 80. 82. 111. Chénée 225 , 226 . Deigné 226. 232. Salazar, Chapelle 103. Cheratte 218. Deinum 315. Shops 74. Chèvremont 225. Delden 354. Suburbs 77. 115 . Chimay 183. Delfshaven 255 . Synagogue 103. Chokier 221 . Delft 256 . Tavernes 73. Christnach 236 . Delfzyl 351. Telegraph Office 74 . Ciney 191. 197 . Demer, the 176 . Theatres 75. 81. 108 . Claushof, the 237. Denderleeuw 11. 69. Tramway 75. Clavier 223. Dendermonde 62. University 108. Clemency 195. Dendre, the 10.02. 69. etc. Vauxhall 81 . Clerf 233 . Denée -Maredsous 184 . Willebroek Canal 114. Clerfthal, the 234. St. Denis - Bovesse 191 . Zaavelplaats 101. 104. Clervaux 233 . Nederzwalm 33 . Budel 177. Cleve 367. St. Denis -Westrem 31 . Büderscheid 234. Cluysen 10 . Derenbach 234 . Buggenhout 135. Colmar- Berg 235. Desselghem 55. Buiksloot 338 . Cologne 368. 369. Deule , the 65 . Buitenhuizen 337. Colonstre 214. Deurle 31. 55. Bunde 351 , 372. Comblain -au - Pont 216 . Deurne 374 . Burg 342. Comblain - la - Tour 217. Deutichem 352. 367. Burglinster 242 . Comines 31, 30 . Deutz 368. Burgreuland 216. 240. Compiègne 180 . Deventer 353. Burnot 187. Condroz 191 . Deynze 31. 55 . Burscheid 235 . Consdorf 236 . Dhün, the 368 . Burst 33 . Contich 135. 62. Dieghem 195 . Bussum 346. Coo 231. 216. Diekirch 239. Buysingen 70. Cornillon 209. Diemerbrug 338. Corphalie 222. Diemermeer, the 354. Calais 64. Cortemarck 28. 31 . Diepenbeek 176. 360 . Calcum 368. Cortenberg 195. Diepenveen 353. Calevoet 116. Couillet 184 . Dieren 352. Callenelle 68. Cour 231. Dieren Canal, the 352 . Calloo, Fort 173. Courrière 191 . Diest 176 . Calmpthout 172 . Court - St. Etienne 182. Dieupart 232. Cambre, Abbey de la 115 . 202. Diksmuide 31 . Cambron - Casteau, Abbey Courtil 216 . Dilbeek 11 . 69. Courtrai 56 . Dillingen 210 . Campine Anversoise 172. Couvin 183. Dinant 188 . Canal de la 177. Cranenburg 367. Dintel, the 376. Candia 368. Crefeld 374 . Dison 226 . Capelle (East - Flanders) Creil 180. 181 . Dodewaard 373. 135. 173. Crèvecoeur 187. Doel 174 . (Zuid -Holland) 375 . Croix- Ronge 194 . Doesborgh 352. (near Rotterdam) 354. Croix -Wasquehal 58 . Doische 184 . Cappellen (near Antwerp) Cuesmes 180. 181 . Dokkum 345 . Culenborg 361. Dolhain 226 . - ( near Luxembourg) Cureghem 70. 77. Dollart, the 351. 195. Cayk 373. Domburg 245 . Carnières 181 . Dommel, the 360. 375 . Castert 218. Dadizelle 32. Dommeldange 237 . Castricum 340 . Dahnen 240. Donchery 190 . Celle 189 . Dalfsen 349. Donck 10. 172. 398 INDEX . Dondelingen 237 . Embourg 225. Feyenoord 175. 255 . Dongen 376 . Embresin 196 . Finsterwolde 351 . Doorn 366 . Emden 351. Fischetterhof 235 . Doornik , see Tournai. Emmaburg , the 225 . Flawinnes 184 . Doorwerth 357. Emmerich 368. 369. Flémalle 222. Dordrecht 376 . Empel 368 . Flenu 180 . Dordsche Kil, the 175. Emptinne 223 . Fléron 226 . Dormagen 374. Encheringen 234. Fleurus 202. 203 . Dorsten 353 . Endegeest 285 . Floing 190 . Dort 376. Enghien 70. 181 . Flône 222. Douai 181 . Engiboul, Château 222. Floreffe 184. Dour 180 . Engis 222. Florenne 183. Dourbes 183 . Enkhuizen 313. Florenville 195. Drachten 349. Enouf 224. Florival 202, Drauffelt 234. Ensival 226. Floye, tlie . 187. Drentsche Diep 350. Epe 347. Flushing 243. Drentsche-Hoofd-Kanaal Eppeghem 131. Folx -les -Caves 196. 349. Eprave 193 . Fontaine l'Evêque 181 . Driebergen 366 . Erembodeghem 11 . Fontenoy 68. Dronryp 345. Erenz, the 235.236. etc. Forest 70. Dry Toren 131. Erfprins, Fort 342. Forest - Stalle 116. Dudzeele 9. 10 . Ermelo 349. Forrières 193. Duffel 135 . Ernzerhof 241. Fouches 194. Duisburg 369, 368. Erpeldingen 235. 234. Franchimont 228 . Duiveland 174. Erquelinnes 183 . Francorchamps 235 . Duivelsberg 372. Ertvelde 10. Franeker 315. Duiven 367. 368 . Erweteghem 181 . Franière 184 . Dunkirk 32 . Escaut, see Schelde. Fragne 182. Duno 357. Esch an der Sauer 234. Frasnes 55 . Durbuy 217 . Egemael 196 . Frédéric, Fort 173 . Düsseldorf 369, 369. Esneux 214 . Frederiksoord 349 . Dyle, the 131. 197. Esschen 172. Frêne 187. Esschene 10. Frénois 190. Ecaussines 178. 181 . Estaimpuis 58 . Freyr 189. Echt 372. Estinnes 181. Froyenne 68. Echteld , the 373 . Ethe 194 . Fumal 223. Echternach 241. Etichove 55 . Furfooz 189. Edam 338 . Ettelbrück 235. Furnes 31 . Ede 357. Etterbeek 191 . Eecke 55 . Etten 245 . Gaasterland 344. Eeckeren 172. Eulenburg 236. Gadzand 9 . Eecloo 10. Eupen 227 . Gammerages 181 . Eelen 176 . Evere 115. Gand- St . Pierre 10 . Eem, the 347. Everghem 10. Gastuche 202. Eemg- Kanaal 351. Exel 360. Gavere 55 . Eenaeme 33 . Eyerland, the 342. Gedinne 195. Eerneghem 28. Eygenbilsen 176 . Geeraardsbergen , see Eessen 31 . Eyne 55 . Grammont. Eext 349. Eysden 218. Geertruidenberg 376. 173 . Eghezée 196 . Geet- Betz 196. Egmond 341. Fagnes, Plat. des 231. Geffen 372. Ehsbachthal, the 230. Falkenstein 240 . Geldermalsen 361. 373. Eich 237. Fallais 223. Geldern 368 . Eindhoven 300. 375 . Famène, the 218. Gemblonx 191 . Eineburg, the 225. Familleureux 181 . Gemünd 240 . Eisch, the 236 . Faulx, Chất. 224 . Genappe 130. 182. Eisenbach 240 . Fauquemont 176. Genck 176. Elburg 347. Faureulx 178. 181 . St. Genèse 116. Ellezelles 70. 33. Feignies 180 . Gennep 368. Elouges 180 . Fels 235 . Gentingen 240 . Elsloo 372. Felny- Arquennes 182 . Géronstère 230, 231. Elst 370. 373 . Ferschweiler 241 . Elten 367. 368 . Gerpinnes 181. Fexhe 197. Geul, the 176 . INDEX. 399 275 . Gheel 177. IGhent : Groenendael 191. Ghent 34. Place d'Armes 53. Groenlo 353. Academy 50 . Pont du Laitage 50.45 . Groesbeek 367. Ste. Anne 55 . Quai aux Herbes 48. Groningen 350. Archives 43. Rabot, Le 52. Gronsveld 218. Athenæum 46. Schreiboom Chapel 53. Grouw 349. Artevelde's Statue 45. Skipper House 48 . Grubbenvorst 373. Baudeloohof 46. Staple House 48 . Grundhof- Neumühle 236. Bauwens, Mon, of 38 . Theatre 53. 240. St. Bavon 38 . University 54. Grupont 193. - Abbey of 46 . Van de Velde, Mon. of Guelderland 358 . Béguinage, Grand 47. 53. - Petit 55 . Zoolog. Garden 55. Haarlem 285 . Belfry 43. St. Ghislain 55. 69. 180. Haarlemmer Polder 258. Bereps-School 54 . Ghistelles 28 . Habay -la -Neuve 194. Biloque, Abbey 52. Ghyvelde 32. Hacher 234 . Blind Asylum 52. Giessendam 374. Haecht 135 . Botanic Garden 46. Giete 349. Haelen 177, 196 . Boucherie 49. Gildehaus 354. Haeltert 33 . Casino 52. Gileppe, the 227. Haeren 130 . Cathedral 38 . St. Gilles 135 . Hague, the 259. Chapel of S. Macaire 47.Gilsdorf 239 . Archives 270 . Charitable Society 44. Gilze -Ryen 375. Binnenhof 261 . Citadel 37. Gingelom 197. De Boer's Bazaar 260 . Cloth Hall 44 . Girster- Klause 241 . Collacie- Zolder 45. Gits 32. Buitenhof 270. Coupure, the 52. Gives 223 . Cannon Foundry 274. Cour du Prince 37. 51. Givet 184. 190 . Collection of Coins, Dulle Griet 46. Gladbach 178. etc. 274. Ecole des Arts 54 . Glain , the 216. Colonial Office 270. du Génie 54. Glons 360. Duke Bernhard's Mo Episcopal Palace 43. Göbelsmühle 235. 234 . nument 274. Flower- shows 52. Goch 368. English Church 260. Graslei 48. Godarville 182. Finance , Min . of 273 . Gravenkasteel 49. Godinne 187 . Fish Market 271. Hôpital Civil 52. Goé 227. Geregtshof 261 . Horticult. Society 52. Goes 245. 174, Gevangenpoort 270. Hospice forOld Men 53. Goesdorf 231. Groote Kerk 271. Hôtel de Ville 44. Göhl Valley, the 227. Hooge Raad 270 . Insitut des Sciences54. Goldfralei , the 236 . Huis ten Bosch 276 . St. Jacques 46. Gorcum 373. St. James 271, Kouter 53 . Gorinchem 373. Justice, Min. of 270 . Library 46. Gorsel 358 . Kneuterdyk 273 . Maison de Force 52. Gosselies 130. 182. Knights' Hall 261 . de Sureté 52 . Gouda 354 . Lange Voorhout 273. Mammelokker 44. Goumont 127. Library 274 . Marché au Beurre 44. Gouvy 216. Malievela 275 . - aux Grains 48 . Gouwe, the 354. 355. Mauritshuis 262. aux Herbes 49. Gouy- lez- Piéton 182. Minist . Offices 261. 270 . aux Poissons 49. Goyer 197. Municipal Museum 272. du Vendredi 45. Goyet 224. Museum Meermanno Metdepenningen ,Statue Graide-Bièvre 195 . Westreenianum 274. of 54. Grammene 31 . National Monum . 275. St. Michael 48. Grammont 181 . Navy Office 274. Musée d'Archéologie50. Grand- Halleux 216. Nieuwe Kerk 275 . -. de peinture 50. Grand- Pré 224. Noordeinde 273. Nat . Hist. Museum 54. Grands-Malades 224. Palace, Royal 273. St. Nicholas 48. s'Graven Brakel 178 . Pal . of Princess Marie Oudeburg 49. s'Gravenhage 260 . 274. Parc de la Citadelle 53. Grefrath 374 . Park 275 . Palais de Justice 53. Grieth 369. Picture Gallery 50 . Passage 270. Grift, the 352. Picture Gallery 262 . St. Pierre 54 . Grimlinghausen 369. Plein 270. 400 INDEX. Hague : Havelange 223 . Holler 240. Railway Stations 259. Haversin 191. Hombeeck 135 . Spinoza's House and Havinnes 69. Homberg 369. Statue 275. Havré 182. Hoogeveen 349. Steengracht's Picture Hazebrouck 23. 64. Hoogezand 351. Gallery 272 . Hazerswoude 258 . Hooghalen 349. Theatre 260. 274 . Hedel 361 . Hooghlede131. 28. Town Hall 271. Heer 190 . Hoogkarspel 343. Tramways 260. ' S Heer 245. Hoogstraten 172. 135 . Vegetable Market 271. Heerenveen 349. Hoorn 343. Vyver 261 . Heeswyk 361 . Hoornsche Diep 350. Vyverberg 271 . Heid 217. Horst-Sevenum 374. War Office 270. Heid des Gattes 232. Hosingen 234. 240 . Willems-Park 275. Heiderscheidergrund 234. Hotton 217. William I.'s Statue 270- Heiligerlee 351. Houdeng 178 . 275 . Heilo 340 . Houffalize 191. 216 II.'s Statue 270. Heimenberg, the 357. Hougomont 127. 117. Witte Societeit 270.275 . Helchteren 360 . Houten 361 . Zoolog.-Botan. Gardeu Helder, the 341 . Houthem 34. 275. Helenaveen 374. Houyet 189 . Hainault 58. 178. Helmond 374. Hoyoux, the 222. 223. Haine, the 182. Helperknap 239. St. Hubert 193. Haine St. Pierre 178. 181. Helvoirt 372. Huccorgne 223 . Hal 70 . Hemixem 11 . Hugerbach, the 236 . Halancy 194. Hemmen 373. Hugowaard 341. Halen 196 . Hengelo 354. Huissen 368. Halfweg 259. Hennuyères 178. Huis Loo 368. Hallerbach Valley 236. Herbesthal 227. Huis ten Donk 175. Halleux 215. Herbeumont 195. Huizen 338 . Halsbach , the 236 . Hérent 195. Hulshorst 347. Haltinne 224. Herenthals 135. 177. Hulst 135 . Hamme 62. Heringerburg 236. Humbeek 115. Hamerenne 192. Hérinnes 181 . Hunge, the 350 . Hamoir 217. Hermalle 218. 222. Huy 222. Hamois 223. Herseaux 58 . Hyon 181 . Hamont 177. Herstal 359. Hamoul 217. ' S Hertogenbosch 360. Han - sur- Lesse 192. Herve 225. 226. Ichteghem 28. - Trou de 192. Herzeele 33 . Ideghem 69. Handzaeme 31. Hesbaye, the 197. Igel 242. Ilannut 223. Ihrhove 351. Hesperingen 238 . Hansbeke 10. Hestroumont 231. Ingelmünster 33. Hangweerd 174. Het Sloe 245. Irnsum 349 . Harchies 68 . Hetzingen 234 . Irres, the 240. Harderwyk 347. Heule 33 . Iseghem 32. Hardinxveld 374. Héverlé 202. Iteghem 135. Haren 350 . Heyenoord 359. Ivoigne 189. Harlebeke 55. Ixelles 115. Heyst 8. 9. 10. Harlingen 346. Heyst -op-den -Berg 176 . Izel 195. Harmelen 258. 356. Hilversum 338. 346 . Harmignies 181 . Hinkel 241. Jabbeke 10. Hart 239. Hindeloopen 341. Jambes 186 . Hartenkamp 258. Hoboken 11. 135 . Jan Tabak 338 . Harwich 137 . Hockai 232 . Jaufferslei 235 . Harzé 215. Hodimont 226. Javaz 223. Hasselt 176. 360. Hoëgne, the 227. 231, Jehay, Château 222. Hastière 183. 189. Hoesselt 360 . Jemelle 191. Hatrival 194. Hoffelt 234. Jemeppe 213. 221. Hattem 347. Hohlenfels 236. sur -Sambre 184 . Haut- Pré 197. Hohllei, the 236. Jemappes 69. 180 . Hautegard 231. Hollandsch Diep 174.376. Jette 11. Hauterage 69 . Ilolland op zyn Smalst Jodoigne 196. llaute Roche 183 . 337. St. Johannishöhle 240. INDEX. 401 Joris 202. Lanaeken 176. (Liège: Jumet 130 . Landeghem 10. Bourse 209. Jupille 218. Landen 196 . Cannon Foundry 205 . Jurbise 69. 178. Laneffe 183. Caserne St. Laurent212. Juglenville 227. Langenfeld 368. Cathedral 211 . Juzaine 217. Langerbrugge 10. Charlemagne, Statue of Langeweg 376 . 206 . Kaatsheuvel 172. Langhemarck 26. Chartreuse 212. Kaiserswerth 368. 369. Langsur 241. Citadel 212. Kaldenkirchen 374. La Panne 32. Conservatoire 206 . Kampen ?48. La Pinte 31 . Ste . Croix 207. Kapelle 246 . La Reid 228. 231. St. Denis 210. Kapstal 237. Laren 338. Dumont's Statue 210. Karthaus 242. Larenberg 338. Exchange 203. Katwyk Binnen 285. La Roche 217. 202. Fontaine des Trois Katwyk aan Zee 285. La Rochette 235 . Grâces 208 . Kautenbach 231. 194. Latinne 223 . Grand Marché 208. Keeten, de 174 . La Trappe 183. Grétry's Statue 206. Keizer Vlaanderen 10. Lauterbach , the 236 . Gun Manufactories 204. Kempen 363. 374. Lauwe 57. Hôtel du Gouverne Kermpt 176 . Lavaux 194 . ment 208. Kesselter Bach 236. Léau 196. de Ville 208 . Kesteren 373 , Le Borinage 180 . St. Jacques 211 . Kevelaer 368. Le Centre 181 . St. Jean 206 . Kinderdyk 175. Ledeghem 32. St. Martin 207. Kippenhof 239. Leer 351 . Mont de Piété 209. Klarenbeek 359. Leerdam 373. Musée d'Armes 209. Klooster 373. Leeuwarden 344 . Musée Municipal 209. Knodsenburg 372 . Le Heron 218. Palais de Justice 209 . Knokke 9. Lei, the 31. 35. 52. etc. Passage Lemonnier210 . Kohlesterlei. the 234. Leidsche Dam 276. St. Paul 211 . Koog 336. 339. Leignon 191 . Place St. Lambert 207 . Koolkerke 9. Leiwerdelt Rocks 236. Pont des Arches 209 . Körich 237. Lek , the 361. de la Boverie 210. Kortryk , see Courtrai . Lembecq 178 . Square d'Avroy 206. Koudekerk 258. Lendelede 33. Theatre 206. Krabbendyke 246 . Lengeler 216. University 210. Kralingen 175. Lens 69. Zoolog. Garden 211 . Krammer, the 174 . Lent 370. Lierde - Ste. Marie 181 . Kreekrak 174. 246. Les Ammerois 195. Lierre 175. 135. Krimpen 175. Lesse , the 189. 192. 193. Liers 360 . Kromme Gouw , the 354. Château 189. Lieve, the 35 . Krommenie 336. 339. Lessines 69. Ligne 69. Kromme Rhvn 361 . Le Tilleul 183. Ligny 182. 202. Kropswolde 350 . Leupeghem 55 . Lille 64. Kruchten 235. Leur 246 . Lille - Saint-Hubert 177 . Kruiningen 246 . Leuze 55. 69. Lillo , Fort 174 , Kuilenborg 361 . Leyden 279. Lillois 130. Küppersteg 368. Liborius- Klauge 241. Limal 202. Kwadyk 343. Libramont 194 . Limburg 226 . Kykduin 312. 276 . Lichtaert 135 . Linge, the 361 , 373. Lichtervelde 31. 32. Linne 372. Laag Soeren 352. Lichtevoorde 353. Lintgen 237. La Clinge 135. Liede 258 . Liotte, the 215. Laeken 11 . Liefkenshoek , Fort 173. Lippe, the 368 . Laerne, Chất. de 62. Liège 203. Ligseweghe 8. 10 . Lage- Zwaluwe 172. 376 . St. Antoine 209. Live 224 . La Gleize 216. 251 . Archæological Mu- Lobberich 374. La Hamaide 68 . seum 208. Lobith 369. La Haye 127. Archives 208. Lodelinsart 183. 202. La Haye - Sainte 126. 117. St. Barthélemy 209. Loenen - Vreeland 354. La Hulpe 191 . Botanic Garden 212. Locvenstein 374 . La Louvière 182. Boulevards 206 . Logne 217. BAEDEKER's Belgium and Holland. 10th Edit. 26 402 INDEX. Lokeren 63. Marsdiep 342. Monceau 214. Lombeck 11 . Marteau 231. Mondorf 239 . Lomme, the 191. 192.193. St. Martin 11 . Moniat 189. Lommel 177. Martin - Rive 215. Monnikendam 338. Londerzeel 11. 135 . Masbeux 226 . Mons 178. London 1. 64. 246. Masnuy 178 . Montaigle 187. Lingerich 374 . Mastenbroek 348. Montfort 225 . Longlier 194. Masures, Châteaudes 226. Monthermé 195 . Longueau 181. Maubray 68 , Mont- Jardin 232. Longwy 194 . Maulde 69. Mont St. Aubert 58. 61 . Loo, Huis 352. 368. Maulusmühle 233. Mont St. Guibert 191 . Loochristy 63. Mechelen , see Malines. 203. Loosduinen 276. St. Médard 188. 195 . Mont St. Jean 125. 116. Looz 196. Medemblick 313. Mont St. Martin 191 . Lophem 32. Medernach 235 . Montigny 183 . Lorentzweiler 237. Meerenberg 291. 339. Mont- sur-Marchienne Loth 70. Meerlo 373 . 183. Lottum 373 . Meersen 176 . Montzen 225 . Louise - Marie 55 . Meerwyk 372. Mook 373. Louvain 197. Mehaigne, the 223. Moordrecht 354 . Louveignez 226 . Meirelbeke 61. 181 . Moorsel 11 . Lustin 187. Meix - devant- Virton 195.'Moorslede 32. Lüttich , see Liège. Melick- Herkenbosch 178. Moresnet 225 . Luttre 130. 182. Melle 10. 62. 181 . Morhet 194. Luxembourg 237. Mellier 194. Morialmé 183 . S- , Grand -duchy 233. Melreux 217. Morlanwelz 181 . Lys, see Lei. Menin 34 . Moselle, the 239. Meppel 349. Mouffrin 187. 191 . Maarsbergen 367. Merbe- Braine 126. Moulbaix , Château 69. Maarssen 354. Merbes- Ste. Marie 181 . Moulins 187 . Maas, the 278. 372. Merckholz 234. 194. Mouscron 57. Maasbracht 372. Merk, the 375. Moustier 184 . Maaseyck 176. 372. Mersch 236 . Muiden 337. 346 . Maastricht 218. Mertert 242. Muiderberg 338. Machelen 55 . Merwede, the 175. 374. Mühlbachthal 240 . Maffles 69. Merxem 137. Mülheim 368. 369. Maison Rouge 129. Messancy 194. Müllerthal 236 . Maldeghem 10. 9. Mettet 184 . München -Gladbach 178. Malderen 135 . Mettray, Nederl. 353. Munsterbilsen 176. Malines 131 . Metz 239. My 215. Malmédy 232. Meuse , the 185. 205. 221 Malonne 184. Mevergnies 69. Naarden 338. 346 . Malplaquet 180. Meysemburg 235 . Namèche 224 . Mamer 195 . Meysse 115. Namur 184 . the 236 . Mézières 190 . Naninne 191 . Manage 181 . Michelau 235 . Natoye 187. 191 . Marbais 202. Middachten 359. Nazareth 55 . Marbehan 194. Middelburg 244. Néchin 58 . Marche 218. Middelkerke 7. Nederhem 360. Marché 228. Midden- Beemster 343 . Nederlandsch Mettray Marche- les- Dames 204 . Mille- Pommes 63 . 353. les- Ecaussines 187. Millingen 369. Neer-Linter 196 . Marchienne 181. 182. 203. Miranda, Château 189. Neerpelt 177. 360. Marcinelle 184. Mirwart, Château 193 . Neerwinden 196. Marck , the 172. Modave 223 . Nennig 239. Maredsous 187. Moerca pelle 356 . Nessonvaux 226 . Mariakerke 6. Moerdyk 172. 175. Nethe, the 135 . Ste . Marie- d'Oignies 184. Moere 28 . Neufchâteau 194. Mariembourg 183. the 35. Neufvilles 178. Mariemont 181. Moestroff 239. Neumoustier 222 . Marienthal 236 . Moha 223 Neuss 369. 374. Marken 333. Moinil, Chất, 224. Neuville 222. Marloie 191. 218. Moll 177 . St. Nicolas 63. 135 . INDEX. 403 Niederwiltz 234. Oorderen 173 . Pierre Brunehault 61 . Nieukerk 363. Oostduinkerke 7. St. Pieter 220 . Nieukerken 63. Oosterbeek 357. 373. Piet Gyzenbrug 258 . Nieuport 31 . Oosterhout 376. Piéton 181. 130 . Nieuport- Bains 31. 7. Ooster -Schelde, the 174. Pintsch 234. Nieuwe Diep 341. Oosterweel Fort 173. Pirange 196. Nieuwe Ley 375. Oosthuizen 313 , Pitthem 31 . Nieuwendam 337. Oostkamp 10. Plackige Ley, the 234 . Nieuwerkerk 354 . Oostkerke 31 . Plancenoit or Planche Nieuwersluis 354 . Oostzaan 342. nois 129 . Nieuweschans 351 . Oppum 374. Poelcapelle 28 . Nieuwe Tonge 174. Opwyck 11 . Poilvache 187 . Nimy 182. Oranje-Canal, the 319. Poix 193 . Ninove 69 . Ordange 196 . Pommeroul 56 , 68. Nippes 374 . Oret 184 . Pont- à - Celles 182. Nismes 183. Orsoy 369. Pont- à -Legse 189. Nivelles 130. Orval 195 . Pont- de - Bonne 223 , Nivelles-Nord 182. Ogs 372. Poperinghe 30 . Noirhat 182. Ostend 1 . Potage 195 . Nonceveux 215. Osterath 374 . Poulseur 214. Noord , De 175. Ottignies 182. 191. 202. Prayon 225 . Noord Holland 338 . Oude Aa , the 350. Predigtstuhl 235 . Noord - Hollandsche Ka- Oude Diep, the 349. Profondeville 187. naal , the 336. Oude-God 135 . Prüm -zur- Ley 241. Noord-Schaarwoude 311. Oudenarde 33. Puers 62. 135 . Noordwyk aan Zee 285. Oudenbosch 172. Pulvermühlthal 242, 239. Noordwykerhout 258. Oudenburg 10. Purmerende 342. Noordzee Kanaal 337. Oudeschild 342. Putten 172. 317 . Norf 374 . Oude Schoot 349 . North Sea Canal 337. 339. Oude Tonge 174 . Quaregnon 09. 189. Notre Dame de Montaigu Oudewater 356. Quareux 216. 176. Ougrée 213. 221 . - , Fond de 215. Noville 196 . Our, the 240. Quatrebras 182. Noyon 180 . Ouren 240. Quatrecht 10. 62. Nuck, the 235 Ourthe, the 205. 214. 216. St. Quentin 180. Nuenen 347. Overveen 292. Quiévrain 180. Nuland 372. 0ydonck, Chất. 47. 55 . Nunspeet 317. Ramillies 196. Nütterden 367. Paliseul 195 . Ramscappelle 31 . Nyenveen 319. Palogne 217 . Ransart 202. Nykerk 347. Pannerden 368 . Ravenstein 372. Nylen 135. 177. Papelotte 127. 117. Rebaix 69 . Nymegen 370. Papiynies 69. Recogne 194 . Parc, Abbey 202. 195. Reeberg, the 359. Obaix- Buzet 130. Passchendaele 32 . Rees 369. Oberhausen 368. Pâturages 180. Reeth 62. Obersgegen 240. Pavillons 184. Reisdorf 240 . Oberwiltz 234. Peel, De 374 . Reitdiep 350 . Obourg 182 . | Peperga 319. Remich 239. Oetringen 242. Pepinster 226. Remouchamps 231. 226. Ohain 126. Perck 131 . Renaix 55. Oisterwyk 375. Perikop, the 236 . Rendeux - Hamoul 217. Okeghem 69 . Péruwelz 68. Ressen 370. 373. Oldemarkt 319. Pervyse 31 . Reuter- Pennink 231. Oldenburg 351 . Peteghem 34 . Reuver 373. Oldenzaal 354 . Petersberg, the 220 . Revogne 193. Olloy 183 . Petrugse, the 237. Rhederoord 352 , 359, Olsene 55. Pfaffenthal, the 237. Rhedersteeg 352. Olst 353. St. Philippe, Fort 173. Rheindahlen 178 . St. Omer 64. Philippsland' 174 . Rheine 354. Ommerschans 349 . Philippeville 183 . Rhenen 348 . Oolen 177 . Philippine 10. Rieydt 178. Ooltgensplaat, Fort 174. Picherotte, the 229. Rhine, the 362. 26 * 404 INDEX. Rhine , the Old 279. 362. Rotterdam : Scherpenzeel 373. Rhisne 191 . Nieuwe Markt 249. Scheveningen 276. Rhode 116. Noordereiland 255 . Schie, the 255 . Rickingen 236 . Park 254. Schiedam 255 . Rilland 246 . Passage 249. Schiermonnik - Oog 351 . Rivage 189. 215. Post Office 248. 247. Schimpach 194. Rivière 187. Rail. Stations 246. 248. Schimper 225 . Rixensart 191 . Stadhuis 249. Schleif 194. Roanne 216. 231. Stieltjes Mon. 255 . Schlindermanderscheid Robermont 212. Theatre 247. 254 . 235. Roche- à -Bayard 189. Tollens' Statue 254. Schönfels 237. aux-Corneilles 187. Yacht Club 254. Schoonaerde 62. à- Frêne 217 . Willem's Plein 254. Schooten 137. à - Lomme 183. Zoolog. Garden 254, Schouw 338. de Faulx 187. Zeemanshuis 254 . Schrassig, Château 242. Rochefort 192. Roubaix 57. Schrondweiler 235 . St. Rochus 240 . Rouillon 187 . Schuelen 176. Rocour 360. Roulers , see Roeselare. Schuiten 351 . Rodershausen 240. Roux 130. 182. Schütburg 234 . Roer, the 372. Rozendaal 359. Schüttorf 354 . Roermond 372. Ruette 194 . Schuttringen 242. Roeselare 32. Ruhr, the 368. 369. Schweineställe or Rognon 178. 181 . Ruhrort 369. Schweigestelle 241. Rolde 349. Rumbeke 32 . Sclaigneaux 224 . Rond Tienne 193. Rupel, the 62. Sclayn 224 . Ronheide 227. Rupelmonde 137. Sclessin 213 . Rooborst 33. Ruurlo 353. 367. Scourmont 183 . Roodt 242 . Ruysbroeck 70 . Secheval, the 232. Roosendaal 172. 246 . Ruyter, Fort de 174. Sedan 190 . Roosendael 32. Rynsburg 285. Sedoz 216. Rosmalen 372. Rysselt 353. Seilles 223. Rosoux 197 . Ryswyk 258. Selzaete 10, Rosport 241. Semois, the 195 . Roth 240. Saardam, see Zaandam . Seneffe' 182. Rotselaer 195. Saintes 70. Senne, the 70. 77. 130 . Rotte, the 248. Salm , the 216 . Septfontaines 237. Rotterdam 246. Chất. of 216. Serainchamps , Château Archives 250 . Salzbergen 354 . of 191 . Art Exhibition 248. Sambre, the 183. 184. Seraing 203. 213. Boompjes 254 . Samson 224 . Sevenich 240 . Boymans' Museum 249. Santbergen 69. Sevenum 374 . Bridges 255. Santſiet 137. Shipka Pass 236 . Canals 248 . Sart-lez -Spa 232. Sibret 194. Delft Gate 254 . Sas van Ghent 10. Sichem 176. English Church 254. Sasselbach, the 239. Siebenschlüff 236 . Erasmus Statue 248 . Sauer, the 234. 235 . Signeulx 194 . Ethnographical and Säul 237. Simmern 236 . Maritime Museum Saventhem 195. Simpelfeld 176 . Schaarwoude 341 . Sire, the 242. Exchange 248 . Schaerbeek 130. 195 . Sittard 372. Feyenoord 255. Schagen 341. Slavanten 220 . Fish Market 248 . Schalkwyk 361 . Sleydinge 10. Groote Markt 248 . Scharflei 235 . Sliedrecht 374. Gymnasium Erasmia- Scheemda 351. Sloe, the 245 . num 254 . Schelde, the 35. 59. 62. Sluis 9. Harbour 255 . 138. 243. Sluyskill 10. 135 . Hogendorp's Statue 254. Schellebelle 10. 62. Slykens 6. Hoogstraat 248 . Schellingwoude 337. Smouhen 127. Hospital 254. Schendelbeke 69. Snaeskerke 28 . Konings-Haven 255. Schengen 239. Sneek 344 . St. Lawrence 249. Schenkenschanz 369. Sneeker Meer, the 349. Library 250 . Schenkweiler Klause 241. Soest 347. Maritime Museum 254. Schermer 341. Soestdyk 366. 339 . 254 . INDEX. 405 Soignies 178. Solières , the 223. Sombreffe 202. Sonsbeek 359. Sotteghem 33. 181 . Souburg 25. Sougne 232 Soumagne, the 225 . Spa 228. the 229. Spaarne, the 286. Spontin 187. Sprimont 214. Staden 28 . Stalle 116. Stammheim 369. Staphorst 349. Statte 223 . Stave 184. Stavelot 232. Stavenisse 174 . Stavoren 344 . Steeg, De 352. Steen 131 . Steenbrugge 10 . Steenhuffel 11 . Steenwyk 349. Sterpenich 195 . Steyl 373. Stolzenburg, the 240. Stoumont 216. Straimont 195 . Streupas, the 214. Sure, thé 239. Susteren 372. Swalmen 373, Sy 217 . Synghem 55. Syseele 10 . Tervueren 125 . Val-St. Lambert 214. 221 , Terwagne 223. Valenciennes 181 . Testelt 176. Valkenberg 176. Tête de Flandre 03. 171. Valkenswaard 360 . Teufelslei 234. Vaulx 68. Texel, Island 342. Vaux 226. Theux 228. Vecht, the 337. 346. 349. St. Thibaut 217. Veenenburg 258 . Thielen 135 . Veenendaal 357. 373. Thielt 31. 33 . Veenhuizen 349 . Thienen 195 . Veenwoude 345. Thierry, Château 189. Veere 245. Thines, the 130 . Veghel 363. Thionville 239. Veldwyk 347. Thisselt 135. Velp 352. 359. Tholen 174. 246. Velthem 195 . Thourout 28 . Veluwe, the 347, 357. Thuillies 183. Velzen 337, 339. Thulin 180 . Venlo 373. 374. Tiel 373. Venray 373 . Tienray 373 . Verdronken Land 174 . Tilburg 375. Vertryck 195 . Tilff 214. 225. Verviers 226. Tilleur 213, 221. Vesdre, the 225. 226 . Tilly 202. Veurne 31 . Tirlemont 195. Vianden 240. Titelberg 239. Viane-Moerbeke 181 . Tongelre 374. Vianen 361 . | Tongeren 360. Vichte 34 . Tongerloo, Abbey 176 , Viel-Salm 216. Tongres 196, Vieille -Montagne 225 . Torey 190. Vierlingsbeck 373. Tourcoing 57. Vierves 183. Tour de Monay 187. Vieux-Dieu 135. Tournai 58. Vieux - Pré 231. Trazegnies 130. Vignée 193 . Trèves 242. Villers, Abbey of 202. Ste. Trinité 58. 61 . Villers- la - Ville 202 . Trois - Ponts 216. 232. sur-Lesse 193. Trois- Vierges 216. Vilsteren 343. Tronchiennes 10 . Vilvorde 131. St. Trond 196 . Vinçon 187. Trooz 225 . Vireux 183 . Trouille, the 178 . Viroin, the 183, St. Truiden 196. Virton 194 . Tubize 178. Visé 218 . Tuntelingen 237. St. Vith 216. Turnhout 135. Vlaamsch -Hoofd 63. 171 . Tweebeek 178. Vlaardingen 256 . Twickel 354. Vlake 246. Vlamertinghe 30. Ubbergen 372. Vlissingen 243. Uccle 116 . Vlodrop 178. Uden 368 . Vlymen 173 . Udenhout 372. Vogelenzang 258. Uerdingen 369 Vogelsmühle 236. Uitgeest 339. 340. Volendam 338 . Ulflingen 216. Volkerak , the 174 . Useldingen 235. 237. Voorburgʻ 276. 356. Utrecht 362. Voorschoten 258. Vaartsche Rhyn 356 . Voorst 352. Val- Benoît, Pont. du 225. Vorden 353 . Valburg 373. Vreeland 351. Tadler 234. Taillefer 187. Tamines 184 . Tamise 135. Tandel 239. Targnon 216. Taupeschbach 236. Taviers 196 . Tavigny 194 . Tegelen 373. Templeuve 58. Temsche 137 . Tente- Verte 32. Terborgh 352. Ter Doest 8. Terdonck 10 . Ter- Elst 135 . Tergoes 245. Ter- Gouw 354 . Terheiden 195 . Termonde 62. Ternath 11 . Terneuzen 10. 406 INDEX. Vreeswyk 361 . Wervicq34 . Wyk (nearMaastricht)218 . Vries- Zuidlaren 350 . Wesel 353. 368. 369. Wykerbrug 276 . Vrouwensand , the 344. Wespelar 135 . Wyler Meer 372. Vught 360. 372. Westcapelle 9. 245. Wylre 176. Westerloo , Chât. de 176. Wynendaele 28 . Waal, the 361, 369. Westervoort 367. 368. Waalre 360. Westrem 31 . Xanten 369. Waalwyk 173. Westroosebeke 28 . Y , the 296. 337. etc. Waardenburg 361 . Westwoud 343. Yerseke 174. Wadenoyen 373. Westzaan 337. Ymuiden 337. Waereghem 55. 33., Wetteren 10. 62. Yperlée, the 28 . Waerschoot 10. Wève, Château 189. Ypres 28. Waesland, the 62. Wevelghem 34. Yser, the 31. Wageningen 357. Wezel 177. Yssel, the Dutch 347 . Waha 218. Wezep 347. 348. 355. 368. Walcheren 243. 245 . Wichelen 62. the Gueldr. 352. Walcourt 183 . Wideumont 194. Ysselmonde 175, 378. Walferdingen 237. Wikingerburg 241. Yvoir 187, Wallendorf 240 . Wilhelminaoord 349. Walwyk 375. Wilhelminapolder 245. Zaan, the 336. 342. Walzin 189. Willebroek 135. Zaandam 336. 339. Wamme, the 191 . Willemsdorp 376 . Zaandyk 336. 359. Wandre 218 . Willems- Sluis 336. Zaanland 336. Wanlin 193. Willemsoord 341 . Zaltbommel 361 . Warche, the 232. Pauper - Colony 349. Zandpoort 339. Waremme 197. Willemstad 174. Zandvoort 292. Warke, the 235. Wiltz 234. 194. Zarren 31 . Warmond 25%. Wilwerdingen 216. Zedelgem 32. Warquignies 180 . Wilwerwiltz 234. Zeeland 173. Wasmes 180 . Wilz , the 234. Zeelhem 176. Wasmuel 69 . Windesheim 351. Zegwaard 356 . Waspik 173. Winschoten 351. Zeist 356 . Wasquehal 58 . Winterswyk 353. 367. Zetten 373. Wassenaar 258. 369. Zevenaar 367. 368 , Wasserbillig 241 . Wirdum 349. Zevenbergen 172 . Watergraafsmeer Polder Woensdrecht 246 . Zevenhuizen 356 . 338. 346. Woerden 258. 356 . Zierikzee 174. Waterland 333. Wohnung, Haus 369 . Zoetermeer 356 . Waterloo 116. Wolferdange 237. Zonhoven 360. Watermael 191 . Wolfhezen 357 . Zonnebeke 32. Waulsort 189 . Wolvega 349. Zont-Leeuw 196 . Wavre 202. Wolz , the 216. 233. 234. Zuid -Beveland 174. 245. Wayai , the 228. 229 . Wondelghem 10. Canal 246 . Wecker 242. Worcum 374 . Zuidbroek 351. Weener 351 . Workum 344 . Zuidlaren 350 . Weerde 131 . Wormer Polder 312. Zuiderzee 296. etc. Weert 177. 202. Wormerveer 336. 339. Zuidplas Polder 354 . Weesp 346 . Worringen 369. 374. Zuid - Willems- Canal 360. Wegberg 178. Woudenberg 373 . 374 . Wehrbusch 240. Woudrichem 374 . Zunderdorp 338 . Weiler- la- Tour 239 . Wouw 246. Zutphen 352. Weilerbach 241. Wupper, the 368. Zuydcote 32. Weisswampach 240. Wychen 372. Zwaluwe 172. 376 . Welkenraedt 225 . Wychmael 360. Zwammerdam 258 . Wellin 193. Wyckel 344 . Zwanenburg 259. Wemeldingen 174. Wygmal 135 . Zwarte Water, the 347 Wenduyne8. Wyhe 353. Zwolle 347. Wépion 187. Wyk aan Zee 339. Zwyndrecht 63. 378 . Weris 217. by Duurstede 361 . Zype 174 . Leipsic : Printed by Breitkopf & Härtel. - Le homme i 1

1" > A 1 습

See also

• Belgien (Baedeker, 1853)

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